2004 Chrysler Sebring 2.7Ltr. Water Pump Replacement (Comprehensive Guide)
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
- In this video I'll walk you through replacing the water pump on this 2004 Chrysler Sebring with it's 2.7 liter engine. While not a nut and bolt instruction, it is comprehensive enough for those mechanically inclined with significant automotive repair experience to have a good idea of the steps necessary.
There are several videos on the Sebring water pump removal, but most pertain only to the 2.4 liter engine which is belt driven and therefor very different from the 2.7.
While the video and audio in some places is poor, I hope you'll find this helpful. Also, it's a good idea to place a rag into the space that is left open between the oil pan and the engine block when removing bolts inside the front cover!
Best video on this engine for this particular job on the internet. I watched several others and this one is by far the best one. Thank you Paul for your attention to detail, especially on the timing! I’m doing a water pump on an 05 Stratus R/T with the same engine right now. Fingers crossed I’m doing this right! It took a while to find a good tutorial, which does NOT exist for the Stratus, everything that comes up is the charger 2.7 or a Stratus 4.0 or 2.4. This video is a life saver! I would really like to get in contact with you just so if I have any questions or concerns. Again, thanks Paul!
Hello Sean. Thank you for the kind words. The main motivation for posting that video was that I too didn't see a more complete direction of the process on youTube. Although it's been a minute since I did this project, you are welcome to contact me for suggestions via email at diycarrepairexpert@gmail.com - All my best - Paul
Never would have thought to look behind the alternator. Thank you, had it done in just a few hours.
Thanks for the video guys! My brother and I just did laid this on hit 2002. The video was very helpful. It took us 19 hours and we did have to get a new tensioner as the old one would not compress for installation. I just wanted to say thanks for the well done video🍻
tbriggs83 - Hey you’re welcome. I’m glad to hear it helped you. Congrats on the repair too!
Thank you for the video. Very helpful. One tip for those doing this, if you replace thermostat and car still overheats, dont be like me and replace water pump/timing chain until you verify that you installed the new thermostat in the right direction!!!! Oh well, I guess i would have needed a new water pump eventually..ha
This video is saving my butt. Doing this on my wife's car now. Thanks !
I'm very glad to hear that. Good luck! :)
I just completed the water pump replacement on a 2002 Dodge Stratus 2.7. This video was very helpful. One thing we discovered was when we put the new timing chain tensioner in we rotated the crank manually and it was making a load clicking noise and the tensioner would revert back to the compressed position and there would be slack in the chain between the rear cam and the water pump. After we first thought the cam was skipping but after further internet look up we discovered that the tensioner needed to be filled with oil. So we put the timing chain cover back on and added 4qts of oil and removed the ASD reley and spark plugs were also out and turned the key to crank over the engine for about 90 to 120 secs to prime the oil. The clicking noise continued until the tensioner finally filled with oil and put full tension on the chain guide. Hope this helps anyone else who takes this project on.
those tensioners are like hydraulic lifters oil filled , you are smart and figured it.
These can be primed by submersing them in oil and then releasing the lock, but it can be a pain to completely compress it back to it’s locked position for installation. It sounds like the tensioner may not have been unlocked once it was installed. Usually the spring tension in there is enough to avoid excessive slack. Who knows.
This is a nightmare of a job. The manufacturers must have thought the water pump didn't need to be replaced very often. Lol
Good video and helped me get this done. One suggestion is to look at other sources for your 14mm 2.0 x 120mm bolt. Fastenal costs $30, McMaster-Carr cost $6. I got it all wrapped up and engine starts fine but now I don't have heat and there's a check engine light on. Filled coolant and think it burped out but I didn't open the bleeder yet. Still working on it.
+Paul Peters - Hi Paul. Glad to hear you found a cheaper installer. If you're still having air pocket issues, try elevating the front of the car and then open the bleeder valve. Good luck!
Awesome Video! About to work on a 2001 model and had now idea what to do. It's a big undertaking but I think given enough time I could do it. Thanks!
I thought your explanation was fantastic, you have a good temperament. I will watch it again as I go through this alone first time on this engine, but tech too have done several others . Thanks again for your time and help
Glad it was helpful!
awesome video thanks so much for being so patiently to explain the whole procedure
Thanks. I’m going to be doing this job shortly and will definitely buy the new timing chain and sprockets.
Great video! My 2010 Sebring needs a water pump at 115,000 miles, so I am waiting for a local shop to give me an estimate to do the job. I tried to tackle it myself but ran into problems trying to get to the power steering pump.
Turns out that I had a dealer powertrain warranty with a $150 deductible! The car now has 123,000 miles and is running fine for a 10 year old car.
thanks for all the help now time for me to go and do this to my car hope i can get it fixed not very good with cars
Great video ! Now I know enough that I really don't want to do this job on my sister's car, although I'm capable . Looks like a real pain in the A$$! Thanks again!
I'm sure you're not alone in that sentiment Randall. I'm glad it was helpful.
"Expect this to take you 2-3 days. Btw, I do it in 1 day and am still done before dinner..." LOL
I appreciate your great video. Keep it up bud!!!
+Jim Polanski Thank you! I hope your project was a success.
Thank you very much. This video was extremely helpful.
WARNING!!! when purchasing new pump,,, use your micrometers or calipers and measure the thickness of the old pump where the timing cover hits it! looked at 3 different brands that were almost .100 inch thicker! this will not allow the timing cover to hit the block around the perimeter! I did finally get one that is actually about.020 thinner than the old one... hope i can make it work!
Intrepid is not rwd bro the engine is mounted like it would be but it is still fwd
Great video. I'm about to tackle this on my '06 Sebring Touring convertable. Why do i feel like I'm about to get into a wrestling match with an elephant?
How did it go with the pump
@@skyb8687 it went surprisingly well. It runs great. Sorry it took so long too answer.
A water pump inside the engine driven by a timing chain is " Brilliant ", just think of water and oil and how well it will mix once the water pump starts leaking. This engine design has destroyed Dodge, Niessen and Ford but made Toyota and Honda the number one auto makers .
great video lots of walk through but I do need advice on timing ..
I marked my can gears and crank shaft in the same spots as you but I ended up removing the timing chainoff the water pump and as soon as I got it over the crank shaft the minjngs off 1&1/2 tooth marks now can't seem to figure out what to do bout the marks once I replace the water pump (also I can't remember how to pull the bracket out of the left bank that has the one bolt going through the water pump
+Danny ogden19 - Danny, It would be difficult to explain verbally beyond what I've presented in my video regarding timing chain placement and guide removal. Fortunately, there are copious amounts of images and web pages committed to instruction of this procedure I think you'll find helpful. I'd suggest you google "timing chain replacement 2.7 ltr Seabring". One you may find helpful is www.foobert.com/blog/2006/12/11/water-pump-replacement-in-a-chrysler-27l-engine/comment-page-1/
Another may be
www.justanswer.com/chrysler/3g0mv-change-timing-chain-chryler-sebring-2.html
Thank you for this video
the Sebring is a beautiful car, I almost buyed one. Scotty Kilmer mentioned in his video about 2.7Ltr waterpump madness. What a stupid idea from Chrisler to mount it in the inner motor block. In this sight, it makes the car worthless, so sad.
use copper coat on the gasket to help hold it in place
Hey man loved the video i see a lot of water pump brands what brand do you recomend i would love if you answer me im purchasing a sebring and i dont know what water pump buy thank you!
Thanks for the love. Yes, go with a Napa water pump. Avoid AutoZone water pumps.
Nice video👍 but this timing chain Is a pain in the a&&..
+The liltle ram - Good luck!
Hi Paul,, I just left a comment below about the Oil Pressure Sensor in regards to another persons issue. I'll comment shortly if it fixes my issue which was the same issue he was having possibly?? QUESTION,,, I DO NOT EVER want to have to do this water pump replacement job that you did in this video to my daughters car if i can help it. An 06 Sebring. I also own an 05 Sebring (both Convertibles). Both are running fine now "knock on wood"! WHAT coolant would you recommend or ANY preventative measures I should take to insure that out Water Pump seals do NOT go out causing us to have to do this job?? I already run Full Synthetic Oil through both of them to insure engine longevity and seems to be working so far. Just have a slight Valve Cover oil leak on the one with 130K miles that just developed and i can tackle that OK. I just don't really want to take on this water pump job in the future if I can push it out as far as possible through proper preventative maintainence. Any suggestions would be awesome based on your superior knowledge!! Seriously! You Rock!! Thanks! Kris text me at 810-444-5399 if you can also.
Kris Rytlewski - well the oil sending unit only sends the pressure reading it’s getting to the oil pressure gauge/lamp so if it’s coming on, you can try the sender but an oil pressure tester would be better to tell you what’s going on there. I’d check the engine oil to see if there’s evidence coolant has leaked into the crankcase.
Hey Paul, if the water pump failed and leaked into the crankcase already is the engine done for at that point?
Hi Vance. Unless you are already hearing engine knock, it’s difficult to know without inspecting the bearings and journals and so on. The crankshaft is first to be oiled, so if the oil pump sucked up coolant and put that into the bearings it would damage them. But if the pump only leaked a small amount, it would probably be okay. If it leaked a lot, you’re in trouble.
Dodge really dropped the ball on this one
Wowwwwww. I’m about to tackle this job. Brought it off a friend (was his wife’s car) figured they was in a car/money bind and didn’t wanna ask if he needed to borrow some change. So now I have a ‘08 convertible and gonna give it to my daughter for her graduation in June ‘19. Ive done a few timing jobs before but NOTHING that looks likes this😂. 🤔question.... would it be easier to just pull the Engine and do everything. Doing a TOTAL OVERHAUL ALMOST. Don’t wanna have to go back in there
Grezzy66 - sounds cool. In my opinion, it’s debatable if it’s easier to just pull it. It would definitely make working with the tensioner easier not to mention the timing chains. Time wise, if you have the equipment to pull it and stand it, why not? It might cost you an extra hour or so but it would also make your project easier to complete. I just don’t like separating exhaust and try to avoid it when I can.
RacePush thanx for the response bro. I don’t like exhaust picking either. BUT THAT TENSIONER. 😩. Yea I have hoist and all. I’m doing EVERYTHING.... Struts. Balljoint , Tie rods , Wheelhubs. The whole 100. Its my kids 1st car. The convertible top bracket was bent and wouldn’t move. I banged on some stuff .. bent this and that and BANG... It worked. Cool lookN car. Even a guy looks cool in it. 🤔 thinkN about the 3.5 swap. It’ll be OUR CAR then😂😂. Thanx again bro. PULL THE ENGINE IT IS.
Grezzy66 - Cool! Well, let me know how it goes!
I want to attempt this but I know I can’t do it. I know nothing about the engine in a car really. Never done things like this and this being so complex. Someone said it cost about a grand to fix. Mine is a 2003 2.7 L convertible, the damn thing is only worth about $1000 and I hate to spend 1000 on it. But what are you going to do? I bought it used in the lady had a lot of new parts put on it so I hate to just let it go!
I would hate to see you get in over your head with something like this. I made this video for technicians who had a lot of tools rather than people that had no experience with this type of work. What I mean by that is, had I had the mindset of making the video for the beginner, I would’ve spent a lot more time and added a lot more detail to keep people from getting into trouble with it. My concern would be that it would only serve to frustrate you and you’d spend money on something that would not come together the way you had hoped.
Same here i have a 2003 2.7l chrysler sebring i changed my thermostat my starter did a tune up changed my oil n it was still running hot come to fine out it may br my water pump by i only have the basic mechanic tool set n no experience wit water pumps everything i did changr it was my first time doing anything like that
Did Chrysler FIX the water pump sludge issueon 2003 onward models?
there's a 15mm bolt with a metal bar bout 2" long with 2 holes that the bolt may pass through. I found it in the bag of fasteners that had all the crank cover in it.. mostly put back together but I couldn't figure out where the piece goes.. any help would be greatly appreciated
Don’t know what that would be from the description alone. Maybe send me a picture and watch my video carefully. Maybe you’ll see it.
How did you get the power steering pump out of the way to access the tensioner
Don't recall - It's been too long.
What about the smaller chains on camshaft how do they need to be in accordance with timeing chain and sprockets and how to be sure you have tdc before setting timeing chain
Jeff, the camshaft chains do not need to be removed for this repair, so they will stay in time. Set the main chain with the cams in time as described and all will be well. Watch the video in full. Good luck.
@@paulveltum6908 yeah I know I'm doing head gasket too and can't find nothing on it for this 2.7 in a Sebring
Jeff Luff www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-chrysler-concorde-chrysler-27l-timing
The tensioner is something else I'm having such a hard time with it. When I pull out it resets after pressing the lil ball to let it air but it seems as if it doesn't want to get any oil in it when it's installed is there any advice you can give me.
Well that stinks! So, what you should have is the tensioner in its install position (compressed) during installation. Sounds like you did that. Next, after installation, you must release the tensioner so it can do its job. I described this process in the video. Finally, if you have done all of that with no love, I have some suggestions/ideas. (1) replace the tensioner. (2) try compressing the tensioner and releasing it submerged in oil several times to prime it (should not be necessary). (3) The oil supply passage in the engine may be blocked keeping oil pressure from the tensioner or draining back to the crankcase. In that case you could try putting a mirror into that hole to see if you can visually find an obstruction. You could also try the sea-foam additive to loosen sludge in the engine or remove the engine to run a wire from the oil passage to wherever it goes to get it's supply. I don't know how that process would go. Never tried it.
Thanks for the video! You mentioned toward the end of the video about lowering the engine to remove the back cover. I assume this is done after the engine is supported by the oil pan and removing the passenger side engine mount. Is there anything else that needs removed to lower it? How far do you lower it?
OK. I was just worried about damaging any wiring, exhaust, etc. by lowering too far.
Thanks!
This is a super helpful video! I feel much more confident now dismantling. Is it possible to remove the fender prior to doing this? Would it make it easier?
+Home Solar Research - Hi. I don't believe removing the fender would be helpful here but removal of the engine certainly would, however that would add a lot of time to the project.
+Paul Veltum Good to know, I would have probably removed the fender had you not answered! I did contemplate removing the engine also... but I don't have a garage and I'm sure a tornado would start to brew the moment I hooked it to the hoist!
I don't suppose you live close enough to Michigan that I could pay you to fix mine? :) I'm not sure it's even leaking yet, and it certainly runs great, but I just know it's headed to its grave at some point...
Home Solar Research Thank you for the reply and the offer, but I'll have to pass. Maybe there is a technician in your area who moonlights on the side who would be willing to do this for you.
Haha, maybe, everywhere I take this thing you'd think it was carrying the bubonic plague :) Thanks for the video, I'll just have to buckle down at some point this year and go for it.
Solar Steve yeah I work at a shop and we hate working on these cars sometimes they go smoothly but more often than not they turn into a project and tie up a lift for a while. And when that happens a shop losses money. Also idkw but the labor times on these suck I believe Chrysler says this is only a six-hour job but I've never ever gotten this job done in 6 hours and I've done plenty of them
Great information video this engine is over engineered. Big dollors to just replace water pump at repair shop car often becomes a pik n pull special just becuse of water pump
is the egr located off the water pump or by the water pump?
Being where this pump is located, does it still have a weep hole? I’m trying to see if this is my issue as my car is dumping coolant from around the front of the engine where this is located. I’ve somewhat recently changed my radiator and there’s no sign of leakage there, all the hoses, radiator hoses, heater core hoses, thermostat and reservoir all seem dry, but at a certain temperature it just starts dumping out the front of the engine... weep hole? Someone please let me know just so I could confirm, I don’t have a chance to get underneath to look for myself.
MAN_ON_WHEELZ - Watch my video. It's in there.
It is? Awesome, haven't watched it yet, was gonna sit and watch on my lunch break today, thank you!
If you need any help reply back to me... I am a tech at Chrysler and just rebuild a 2.7
Oscar Ronquillo oh good! I actually intend to tackle this project this weekend, sucks not having a car I can go far in. One thing I'm a little concerned about is removing the timing chain tensioner, he's saying in this video how it would be difficult to put the new one in, also I saw he adjusted this little allen head screw, does this relieve pressure or something? I'm not too familiar with how timing chain tension works on this, everything seems to be internal and hidden.
No worries all, I successfully completed the water pump on my car, was already putting it back together by the end of the first day. Oh and on my 2002 Sebring those block plugs are 12mm allens not 10mm. Only issue I have now is that something isn't wired right somewhere because I keep blowing the alternator fuse for some reason. If anyone has an idea what I may have screwed up let me know!
how would i be able to test out whether or not my water pump is the issue or not on this particular vehicle? do you also have any guide on how to replace a power steering pump? i’m very new to this so i got a long way to go on my ‘02 sebring convertible.
Hi. If the engine oil is milky, that's a sign there is coolant in the engine oil and it's a good possibility the pump is leaking. Hopefully it's not gotten that bad. Water pumps have what's called a "weep hole". On this engine the weep hole is external. If you see evidence of coolant leaking at the weep hole, you have a bad water pump. In the video, I show this so you can check it.
@@paulveltum6908 what moment did you show it?
Yupp, about to do this... Anyone know if the airtex/wells pump is decent? Seems to be the only one available in my area. It looks like the updated version like the mopar but no clear picture of gasket. It's got the orange on it so it "looks" like the improved one but not 100% sure on it.
Like to start on it soon. It's my job vehicle. But I'm taking
Great! I have a Concorde 2004 with the same 2.7 engine. I need to replace the knock sensor due to P0325 engine code, which is why it's on limp mode. After removing the intake manifold cover, i'm stuck since the knock sensor is located under the fuel line going to the injectors. Do you have any video on how to remove the knock sensor? Would much appreciate it. Thank you.
Unfortunately no, I haven't done one.
Hi, I was able to successfully replace it yesterday but haven't tested it yet since I'm working on it during the night after work. In summary, you need to remove the fuel injector rails and next layer or cover after the injectors. Sorry I don't know what it's called. Lastly you need to remove the long steel pipe of the thermostat housing to be able to actually see the knock sensor. Good thing I bought the knock sensor earlier to know how it looks.
That was a great video. Thanks.
+Greg Kacsandi You're very welcome Greg. Best of luck with your repair!
Is there a trick to removing the coil pack (#5 especially) when removing the valve rear valve cover? I had to tear the boot on #5 just to get the cover off and now I'm wondering how it's going to work when putting the cover back on.
+Greg Kacsandi - Hi Greg. I'm not sure where you are coming from since this engine doesn't have a coil pack but rather each spark plug has its own coil perched above it's boot, so I hope you are working on the 2.7 ltr engine.
+Paul Veltum Sorry, I'm referring to the individual ignition coil on each plug. The one over #5 cylinder hits the top of the leading edge of the firewall. Also, I'm guessing that in order to remove the power steering pump, the tensioner must be released?
+Greg Kacsandi - I'm recommending you remove the forward motor mount pin located behind the radiator. This lowers the engine and rotates it forward. If you still need more clearance, remove the rear mount pin as well, but that should not be necessary. Use a floor jack to stabilize the engine and take some pressure off the bolt as you remove it. Use a block of wood between the floor jack and the bottom of the engine. As for the power steering pump, I show removing the serpentine belt tensioner in the video. I don't believe the power steering pump has an auxiliary tensioner. If memory serves it rotates in its bracket to set belt tension. Again all you are doing there is dismounting the pump. There is no need to completely remove the power steering pump from the car so leave the lines attached.
Paul nice video, how much to do mine? cause this job is out of my talent, lol
Lol! Yeah I know it looks like all kinds of fun, right?
Looks like I'll need a mechanic for this one . DAMMIT !
Internet forum the 2.7l water pump block gasket seal deteriated of age "can leak water directly down into oil." I a shady tree mechanic have been assured that is faults my local experienced wise mechanic of my 00'' 2.7l intrepid, even as you stated for the block is sealed. My told water in oil problem is caused by a leaking head gasket most likely, crack or warped head, then crack block or last a radiator coolant. oil mingle the engine oil some early intrepid models, period. Chance, might stop much easier of Blue Devil gasket seal.....
Why did you use the word Comprehensive? How do you get the Fing rear valve cover back on?
As I recall, you rock the engine forwards to get some clearance to put the cover back on.
my girls 2.7,the oil light is coming on & stays on until its reved abouve 2k rpm so im assuming itrs the timming & gaskets so I need to replace her oil pan gasket,the water pump & timing setup & hope that fixes it up??? its a 05 sebring 2.7 dohc..ANY & ALL HELP & SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPREIATED!!!!! IV NEVER DONE A TIMING CHAIN OR BELT & THIS 1 IS A BIT EXSTENSIVE!!!!!
I'd be concerned continuing these repairs on an engine with oil pressure issues. I'd look to rebuild or replace the engine.
Worn bearings...unable to maintain oil pressure. Crankshaft main journal bearings, thrust bearings, connecting rod bearings....may as well do all piston rings
@@paulveltum6908 Hi Paul,, might it just be the pressure sending unit gone bad? I've got the same exact issue with my daughters car so I'm going to replace it and hopefully that takes care of the issue. Will let you know shortly. SUPER AWESOME VIDEO by the way Paul. Watched the entire thing and am now reading ALL of the comments to learn more about this job and particular engine!!
Kris Rytlewski - I’m glad this video is helpful. The pressure sending unit? I suppose you’re referring to the coolant temperature sending unit. If it fails it could send a false temp reading to the gauge. I’d say if you’re low on coolant, you need to find out why. If there’s no evidence of loss of coolant and no evidence of coolant in the engine oil then suspecting the sender makes sense. Make sense?
How much would u charge someone to do this job seems like a engine replacement would be easier
How do you test the water pump to make sure it's bad. ?
There are two things to look for. Leakage from the weep hole or coolant entering the crankcase.
Wow! Thanks for your quick response... well it doesn’t leak at all in the weep hole or in the coolant engine ( there's no leak at all in the cooling system ,engine coolant level is fine along with the cooling fans ) . I have a 94 sebring 2.7 V6 Conv., and it overheats.
I already did a flush on the engine and radiator and the radiator is fine but there's no water flow on the engine from the in and out radiator water hose connections. I'm thinking it's the thermostat but I'm not sure . Thanks for your great videos
I have NOT finished your entire video YET but, Shouldn't you have replaced your cam sprockets,& the tentioner/sensor's that sit in between each camshaft sprocket, & the main timing sprocket that slides onto the crankshaft (& it needs the correct backspacing! )maybe your trying 2 save $$$$??? or maybe I should watch the whole video b4 replying?
+D.j. B - There are kits available which include the slides, chains and so on. To answer your question, I was helping a friend with his project and it was done on the cheap, so it was not the ideal repair. Fortunately this repair was successful. Yes I did explain this to a degree at the end of the video.
I WATCHED A VID SHOWING HOW TO TIME THE 2.7 BUT HE USED "INCH POUND" HOW DO I CONVERT THET TO FOOT POUND????
divide by 12
How much if I got it done by a garage?
What state are u in
Why would you need to remove valve covers and manifold, Plugs as wel?
I know you need to remove manifold to change bleeder valve.
Timing chain and guides.
Do you need to Replace the timing chains or can you reuse the original chains, guides and tensioners?
Chase Larkin - I reused the chains and guides but replaced the tensioner.
RacePush is that what you recommend or would that be unnecessary? Replacing the timing chains that is.
Chase Larkin - I'm not aware of a recommended replacement period for those items. A car this age is in my opinion a judgement call for any mayor repairs like this as it is. The kits are available but if I'm seeing little to no wear on the guides, I'm reusing those items mentioned with no promises.
Paul were are you from I'd like to pay yo to change mine ?
Can you help me find agood macanic in Philly pa.
How long did this take
Two days
one question, did your water pump failure act like a bad head gasket?
It's common for the pump outer seal to fail allowing coolant to leak into the engine oil pan. This condition often results in damage to the engine bearings. So to some degree, yes it does, since in some cases a blown head gasket allows coolant to enter the engine oiling system, but the similarities end there.
supposedly it had head gaskets 30k ago, but its not smoking, or misfiring like its down a cylinder. it just over heats and their is water in the oil, but its still thick. I bought it cheap, just want some ideas as to what it could be.
but theirs is no smoke, no misfire, no lack of compression just over heats at times.
+Shane Thompson The symptoms change depending upon what the failure point is. They don't always show a compression failure or smoke. Have the engine and coolant system tested at a shop. It may be a failed water pump as you suspect.
+Shane Thompson - What you need done is a check on the cooling system to see if exhaust is making its way into the cooling system. It's called a block tester, but it's a glass cylinder with a liquid chemical inside perched on the filler neck which can detect exhaust bubbles. Exhaust in the cooling system causes it to overheat. If the test is negative, then we blame leakage and air pockets in the system causing the overheat pointing back to the water pump in your case. Good luck.
I thought Chrysler corrected the Water Pump problem in 2004?
thats what i thought too. i have an 05 160k hasnt had this problem yet. Maybe after 04 they fixed it?
No, it was a problem till 2010
TRUST ME FIRST TIME DOING A WATER PUMP ON A 2.7 IS A BITCH BUT ONCE U GET IT RIGHT THE FIST TIME ITS EASIER THE SECOND TIME
What is the cost for this, i have the same car with the same problem
June Amato - Hi. The cost can vary widely depending upon the components require replacement and of course the cost of labor. I think if you look through the comments here, you’ll see some pricing quotes that were given to others.
Hi bro,plz help me out, I have 2.7L V6 Chrysler,It was over heated and its water pump was gone and water and oil was mixed became milky oil.I replaced the new water pump and checked everything is fine nothing damaged, only water pump was broken,the water pump is new now but it's not starting :-(more than Three times open head and reset the timing chain, but didn't start the engine,don't know what's wrong with it.!Plz help me out.!!!
+Md Furkaan If you are certain you have the timing chain and cam shafts timed properly, then I'd stop taking that apart and resetting it. Next, I'd verify the basics such as is there fuel in the tank and is the battery charged enough to spin the engine quickly enough to start the car. If that looks to be correct you'll want to check the sound of the engine when it's cranking over. Do you hear the pulses of the compression strokes in the rhythm of the cranking? If not, and the engine seems to be spinning more freely then usual, that's a sign the cams are not timed properly to the engine and something is off in the way the chain is placed. If not, crank the engine several times over and then remove a spark plug and check for fresh fuel on the spark plug, as if it has been misted with fuel. If there is a lot of fuel on the spark plugs, the engine may be flooded and replacing the plugs may be in order. If there is fuel but it's not flooded, next check for spark by plugging in another spark plug into one of the boots, placing the threaded part of the spark plug on something metal so it has a ground. Do not remove the spark plug from the cylinder to do this as it's possible to start an accidental fire, so leave all spark plugs in the engine for this test. Crank the engine over and observe the spark plug for a spark while cranking. Carefully perform these tests and notify me of the results.
Thank you so very much man,I have beefing suffering,it has and battery, and it's spinning freely and feels like there's no combustion,..
man I'm out of country now, next month I will fix then I will text you when I will start fixing, thanks once again man,
Kind regards
Ken.
@@mdfurkaan8974 what was the problem?
@@mdfurkaan8974 is it alive?
Yep it is alive and I still have it,
Since I have been doing experiments on it and ThankGod by his grace I’ve become master in 2.7L haha
So if you got any questions regarding please feel free to ask
kingfurkaan
The intrepid is fwd
hopefully video
So, with a job this big, WHY would you risk using an Auto Zone replacement pump?!?!?!?!?
That’s a fair question Justin. At the time, the owners son didn’t have much money to work with and his siblings were not helping either, hence the reason he called me to help him do this in his driveway. Fortunately, the water pump worked out just fine. He got lucky. But yes, ideally I’d want factory parts all the way.
Paul V
Paul Veltum gotcha. Kudos for helping someone out!!
Anytime you welcome to my shop in San Diego California 92126
I'm pretty sure if the thermostat or my water pump itrun as it is ....I just put it on Facebook I'm selling it I'm not going to deal with it.
Come and fix mine!
I have one of these cars and had a shop do this and it cost about a grand -mostly labor charge. I am a mechanic and would never attempt this. What a pos engine.
Just did it myself, I'm not a certified mechanic but everything came apart and went back together quite nicely actually.
You are not a mechanic if you cant install chains..... Easy ass motor to work on!
Darron Lemell yes I don't think this guy should be claiming that he is a mechanic. It undermines all of us who do it for a living. With that being said. This is a very hard job to do. I have done several of these jobs and they suck I can never make booktime on this pos. I hate them. Certain jobs I just refuse to do on them anymore. But it's just the sebring. I really hate working on them. Oh and Volkswagens I don't particularly like working on those either.
@@josephknotts8618 some these people dont understand how hard mechanics work. How much labor time should i charge if i do this at home?
Y is the new water pump gasket different then the original? I guess u have to pay the parts supplier Extra 4 the correct gasket? or get ur parts elsewhere.like ebay, rockauto.com, A1 auto, or 1 of many other parts companies, I wouldn't settle 4 a substandard gasket!!!!!!!!
Replacements are usually always different than manufacturers. Ive noticed ghat with all or most gaskets.. Manufacturer fraud with giving us garbage gaskets ao have to take it to them to work on. Plus newer parts n newer gaskets look different because they are improving them or
The intrepid is not rear wheel drive lol
U couldnt do it in a day
BARELY HEAR A WORD YOU'RE SAYING.