The Cyanuric Acid will lower the pH and the Alkalinity a bit after you add it. Just add some Baking Soda or Alkalinity Up from your local pool store. Leslie's has a nice 5 lb bag of both pH and Alkalinity Up. Just be careful when you go into a pool store that the person helping you doesn't sell you the whole Farm ;). They will try to push stuff on you that you simply don't need. 60 ppm is low for Alkalinity. Low Alkalinity will create pH bounce - where the pH goes up and down rapidly.
I just check the video & it sounds fine to me. Maybe the volume on RUclips itself on your computer is low? Thanks for watching and I am glad you find the videos helpful.
It takes up to 24-48 for cyanuric acid to fully dissolve. You don't have to wait that long. When you add it to your pool skimmer I would run the pool for 24 hours. That should be enough in warm water situations. Remember it goes in your pool skimmer and is not broadcasted directly into the pool - I think you know that put I always like to make sure (it will stain your liner).
Great videos as always! If I have an algae infected pool. Do I brush and vacuum all the silk from the algae first before I zero out my pool per your instructions in this video. Or I should zero out first before I vacuum everything? Look forward to hear from you, thanks!
@@SPL So, do I put chlorine first. Once the level is 30-50 ppm then I shock the pool to zero out? I am trying to get the right procedures. Thanks so much!
Putting the shock in the skimmer messes up seals and is a terrible idea. Let the dust settle. Turn off skimmers. Turn on the main drain and brush to center. Vacuum the left over dust.... It welcome!
+Eric Harp. Shock, usually, Cal Hypo, does not mess up seals as long as the pump is running while the shock is added to skimmer and its allowed to run for a while after adding. Cal Hypo has a high pH level so its not acidic. Adding Cal Hypo directly to the pool is not a good idea because most pools have a certain amount of metal in the water and adding a high pH oxidizer can and will cause staining.
I use chlorine tablets only, 2 every 1-2 weeks, do a backwash whenever the water gets a little murky, use the pump for about 6 hours a day (solar pump so no worries about electricity costs) and never had problems with algae. I check PH from time to time, not much more for the last two years.
I meant corrosion of the heater ;). Drain it down 2 ft or so and refill it, then retest it.Test strips don't test for Calcium Hardness - just total hardness which is a pretty useless reading. A Taylor test kit is the correct one you will need to test for calcium hardness. I have a video on it on my channel. Take a sample to a pool store and they will run the test for you.
The only time I have seen that is when the acid reacts with bromine in the water. When I use YellowTrine (Sodium Bromine) and add acid it will turn the water a yellow tint for a hour or so. Other than that I don't know why it would do that.
Thanks How long do you think I should let the conditioner dissolve in water before putting it in the pool. I put the conditioner in a bucket of hot water like 4 hours ago and I just checked it and it still looks about the same. Should I wait a few more hours before putting it in the pool.
I bought my house with my first pool (10,000 gallon with 10 solar panels and a 1.5 hp pump) I have ever owned, back in 2008, in SW Florida. I was told by all the 'experts' how much work it is to maintain a pool and I should probably hire a pool guy, but if not, check the water chemicals every week or so. I was also I was told to run my pool 4 hours a day in December and January, thereafter 6 hours a day. I was also told to clean my filter 2-4 times per month - but don't do it with a pressure washer as it could cause damage. Being the skeptic I am, this year, starting with January of 2014, I ran the pump about 10 total hours and added about $9 worth of liquid chlorine and muriatic acid; February about 1 hour a day (+$8 in poured in chemicals), and March less than 2 hours a day (+ $5 in poured in chemicals). In the last 5 months, I have only cleaned the filter once, and that was a half-a** cleaning with a hose. I must add that last year I used my pressure washer on the filter and it cleaned it about 10 times as fast-with no damage (just don't get the sprayer too close). I was only able to get by with this because my soon-to-be ex wife finally moved out, and I didn't have to listen to her bitten ("when are you going to maintain the pool"?). I look at the water every day and it looks as clear as it always has (very clear). If I had listened to the experts I would have put forth much more effort and expense (particularly due to LCEC's high charges - about $.42/hr). Be wary of those experts. I did that take into account the worse case scenario of terrible water quality. I believed I could afford to do my own investigative tests being that I can drain the pool, pressure wash, and refill in 48 hours, at a minimal cost (due to having well water). Thanks again to those no-knowledge experts (or those who simply recite the company given propaganda) who want you to keep the customer coming in their doors. I am wondering if I should now replace my 1.5 hp with a 1 hp to save even more. I am not concerned with pool temperature as the pool is hardly ever used. I just like to look at it, especially at night!
You will probably need to run the pool a bit more in the Summer months when the water warms up. I wouldn't bother with going from a 1.5 hp to a 1 hp motor. You will also need to change the impeller so it will add up to more cost in the long run. There isn't a huge watt savings from 1.5 to 1 hp. Your best bet is to invest in a variable speed pump and run it on low speed most of the time. Then running your pump will be like having a 100 watt light bulb on.
what type of liquid chlorine is that in the yellow container ..any specific kind do you recommend? and what kind of "acid" is that specifically in the red...can I buy those in bulk anywhere...recommend a specific place ?
I'm with you! every year is a expensive nightmare...........always ready to sell the house to get rid of inground pool...when I finally - finally get it ok.... I'm like "I LOVE MY HOUSE... I'M NEVER MOVING !" Vodka tonic with lime yum
Oh, and one more thing, the test strip Alkalinity readings are not very accurate. Get a regular OTO 4 way test kit (the one with the color changing solutions). Then retest the Alkalinity to get a more accurate reading.
Thanks heaps. The pool guy added a stack of salt bags but I added the last bag as I couldn't taste any salt in the water and crappy test strips said lowish, now realise too much but it must have been high already. How much of 60,000L will I need to drain off? Sorry, what is a heatee? I have tri flow zodiac with the PH controller added. Same issue with the hardness, the test strips kept saying too low. Many thanks Prae
That is a lot of salt. I would reccomend draining some water out. maybe call the builder so he can do it properly. That kind of salt level will cause corrosion to the parts in your heatee (if you have one). I wait 2 months before I add salt as it tends to cause calcium buildup later. your calcium level is fine. I wouldn't worry about the Phosphates unless you have algae. Who added the salt for you by the way?
I am so confused after reading directions for shock and chlorine tablets- it says not to mix with other chemicals. Does this mean- do not mix it together before putting them into the pool, or does it mean I have to wait a time period for each chemicals to dissolve in the pool?
It is completely normal to add shock when there is chlorine in the pool. But you never want to combine different forms of chlorine (or any other pool chemicals) tighten or in a concentrated solution with water. They can interact adversely in that situation
Hi, my 60K L peblecrete pool is only 2 weeks old and I have finally got the chemistry pretty good except, due to inacurate test strips, my salt is 5700 ppm and calcium 300. My phosphate test strip is light blue saying phosphates are "high" but I have had no colour changes, water is crystal. 2 questions: 1. should I bother draining off to fix salt and Calcium levels? 2. Do I need to treat the phosphate? thanks
Your salt level is too low, most salt systems require at least 3200 ppm of salt. So add some salt to bring it up. Watch my video on lowering Total Alkalinity on my channel. You will need to get it down to about 150 ppm. Ideal range is 80-120ppm. As you lower it you will see a pretty constant acid demand. So keep adding Acid but be careful PH stays above 7.2. Add 1 or 2 gal of liquid chlorine to shock the pool. Once salt system is generating the chlorine reading will be 3.0 or above.
Just take some of your pool water over to Leslie's Pool Supplies and they test it for you and enter all the information in the system and it spits out your results and gives you a detailed list of things to do to correct the problems. They dont over sell you either so that is also nice.
After swimming one day, I had a metallic taste in my mouth, and I began to throw up shortly after. That was many years ago, but I still think about it for some reason. Probably because I want to know what caused it. Especially considering my friend and his kid were swimming in the same pool and were not affected by this. Any ideas?
do you think its a good idea to completely replace liquid chlorine with dichlor ? expenses are equal between both? or its good to do a mix between liquid and granular chlorine? i would like to avoid the extra weight of the liquid chlorine for my route (100+accounts) thanks in advance
It's fine to use Dichlor to shock a pool but I would stil use a mix of liquid and Dichlor - as Dichlor does contain Cyanuric Acid in it and over time will raise a pools CYA levels.
I saw in the description that the ideal range for alkalinity is 80 - 120 ppm. I finished filling my Intex 16x48 pool yesterday and checked the alkalinity and its at 60ppm. Is this ok? I bought the HTH 6 way test kit from Walmart and on the instructions it says that ideal range for alkalinity is 60-120ppm. Should I leave it alone or bring it up? I am dissolving some conditioner in hot water so im not sure if I should change the alkalinity first or leave it alone.
I just got a salt water system. I have a small pool 10' x 33" - I'm new to figuring this all out. Just tested it and I have 1770 ppm for sodium chloride according to the salt test strip. I did the 6 way test strip and it shows 0 free chlorine and 8.4 ph and 240 for the alkalinity. the total hardness and CYA read normal. What do I do to lower the PH and TA for a salt water pool of that small size?
Just install the salt water generator and add the proper salt amount. Then use Muriatic Acid to control ther pH. That is it. No more liquid chlorine, shock or tablets.
Every single one of those chemicals is in every pool that you’ve ever swam in. There are several regulatory agencies that regulate pool chemistry and advise on the recommended levels. The dangerous pools are the ones with INSUFFICIENT chemicals so infectious bacteria, algae and viruses are plentiful
Depends. If you use Cal-Hypo then yes. Liquid Chlorine will also raise the pH. Dichlor is pH neutral and Tri-chor shock has a low pH so it won't raise it.
I bought the house with the pool. The pool company came and opened the pool.I tested my water it has no ph or chlorine.I shoked the pool.What should I do next?What type of chemical should I buy?
Just raise the chlorine level and keep it at 3.0 ppm - get a good test kit and test the chlorine, pH and Alkalinity and try to balance the water - it may take some time.
There’s no such result as “no pH”. Less than 7 is acidic. Greater than 7 is basic. While there exists a solution of pH 0 that would be the strongest possible acid. That could exist in a laboratory but not in your pool - a pH if zero world be deadly to your pool surface (and anybody who stepped inside).
He’s merely demonstrating several different scenarios. Once the pool is balance very little chemicals are needed. His other videos explain how to minimize the use of chemicals to save money
Your body is also made of chemicals. Once you learn pool chemistry there is no reason to be fearful. Your body has a Ph. Chlorine is in salt. Alkalinity is just baking soda. These are in every single pool that you ever swam in - and you survived!
@@drdrew3 There are chemicals that are natural, some of which are produced by the body and is needed to keep us alive and healthy. Then there are chemicals that are manmade and are harmful. Do not assume that all chemicals are the same and are safe for humans to consume.
Thanks for the positive feedback. Glad I was of help to you.
The Cyanuric Acid will lower the pH and the Alkalinity a bit after you add it. Just add some Baking Soda or Alkalinity Up from your local pool store. Leslie's has a nice 5 lb bag of both pH and Alkalinity Up. Just be careful when you go into a pool store that the person helping you doesn't sell you the whole Farm ;). They will try to push stuff on you that you simply don't need. 60 ppm is low for Alkalinity. Low Alkalinity will create pH bounce - where the pH goes up and down rapidly.
I just check the video & it sounds fine to me. Maybe the volume on RUclips itself on your computer is low? Thanks for watching and I am glad you find the videos helpful.
It takes up to 24-48 for cyanuric acid to fully dissolve. You don't have to wait that long. When you add it to your pool skimmer I would run the pool for 24 hours. That should be enough in warm water situations. Remember it goes in your pool skimmer and is not broadcasted directly into the pool - I think you know that put I always like to make sure (it will stain your liner).
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH FOR THIS!!! AND THANKS FOR THE TIME & CARE YOU TOOK INTO PUBLISHING THIS!!!! TRULY GREAT & INFORMATIVE!!!!! HAVE A GREAT DAY!!!!
Great videos as always! If I have an algae infected pool. Do I brush and vacuum all the silk from the algae first before I zero out my pool per your instructions in this video. Or I should zero out first before I vacuum everything? Look forward to hear from you, thanks!
Bring the chlorine level up to 30-50 ppm and then brush and vacuum your pool.
@@SPL So, do I put chlorine first. Once the level is 30-50 ppm then I shock the pool to zero out? I am trying to get the right procedures. Thanks so much!
Putting the shock in the skimmer messes up seals and is a terrible idea. Let the dust settle. Turn off skimmers. Turn on the main drain and brush to center. Vacuum the left over dust.... It welcome!
+Eric Harp. Shock, usually, Cal Hypo, does not mess up seals as long as the pump is running while the shock is added to skimmer and its allowed to run for a while after adding. Cal Hypo has a high pH level so its not acidic. Adding Cal Hypo directly to the pool is not a good idea because most pools have a certain amount of metal in the water and adding a high pH oxidizer can and will cause staining.
Cool video. I started to clean my pool.
I made a video recently on Cyanuric Acid levels. You want it anywhere between 30 ppm to 50 ppm. 50 ppm is better.
Simple and straight forward. Thanks for posting. 👍
I use chlorine tablets only, 2 every 1-2 weeks, do a backwash whenever the water gets a little murky, use the pump for about 6 hours a day (solar pump so no worries about electricity costs) and never had problems with algae. I check PH from time to time, not much more for the last two years.
Great! 👍👍
I meant corrosion of the heater ;). Drain it down 2 ft or so and refill it, then retest it.Test strips don't test for Calcium Hardness - just total hardness which is a pretty useless reading. A Taylor test kit is the correct one you will need to test for calcium hardness. I have a video on it on my channel. Take a sample to a pool store and they will run the test for you.
Question, can I use the “shock product” and place the trichlor tabs in the floater at the same time?
Yes.
The only time I have seen that is when the acid reacts with bromine in the water. When I use YellowTrine (Sodium Bromine) and add acid it will turn the water a yellow tint for a hour or so. Other than that I don't know why it would do that.
Thanks How long do you think I should let the conditioner dissolve in water before putting it in the pool. I put the conditioner in a bucket of hot water like 4 hours ago and I just checked it and it still looks about the same. Should I wait a few more hours before putting it in the pool.
I bought my house with my first pool (10,000 gallon with 10 solar panels and a 1.5 hp pump) I have ever owned, back in 2008, in SW Florida. I was told by all the 'experts' how much work it is to maintain a pool and I should probably hire a pool guy, but if not, check the water chemicals every week or so. I was also I was told to run my pool 4 hours a day in December and January, thereafter 6 hours a day. I was also told to clean my filter 2-4 times per month - but don't do it with a pressure washer as it could cause damage.
Being the skeptic I am, this year, starting with January of 2014, I ran the pump about 10 total hours and added about $9 worth of liquid chlorine and muriatic acid; February about 1 hour a day (+$8 in poured in chemicals), and March less than 2 hours a day (+ $5 in poured in chemicals). In the last 5 months, I have only cleaned the filter once, and that was a half-a** cleaning with a hose. I must add that last year I used my pressure washer on the filter and it cleaned it about 10 times as fast-with no damage (just don't get the sprayer too close). I was only able to get by with this because my soon-to-be ex wife finally moved out, and I didn't have to listen to her bitten ("when are you going to maintain the pool"?). I look at the water every day and it looks as clear as it always has (very clear). If I had listened to the experts I would have put forth much more effort and expense (particularly due to LCEC's high charges - about $.42/hr). Be wary of those experts.
I did that take into account the worse case scenario of terrible water quality. I believed I could afford to do my own investigative tests being that I can drain the pool, pressure wash, and refill in 48 hours, at a minimal cost (due to having well water).
Thanks again to those no-knowledge experts (or those who simply recite the company given propaganda) who want you to keep the customer coming in their doors.
I am wondering if I should now replace my 1.5 hp with a 1 hp to save even more. I am not concerned with pool temperature as the pool is hardly ever used. I just like to look at it, especially at night!
You will probably need to run the pool a bit more in the Summer months when the water warms up. I wouldn't bother with going from a 1.5 hp to a 1 hp motor. You will also need to change the impeller so it will add up to more cost in the long run. There isn't a huge watt savings from 1.5 to 1 hp.
Your best bet is to invest in a variable speed pump and run it on low speed most of the time. Then running your pump will be like having a 100 watt light bulb on.
what type of liquid chlorine is that in the yellow container ..any specific kind do you recommend? and what kind of "acid" is that specifically in the red...can I buy those in bulk anywhere...recommend a specific place ?
Those are the HASA brand located mainly on the west coast. Most pool stores will carry the HASA brand in the west region
If your pool is green. How much vodka do you drink...to forget about the green pool?
40 oz at least. 😜
I'm with you! every year is a expensive nightmare...........always ready to sell the house to get rid of inground pool...when I finally - finally get it ok.... I'm like "I LOVE MY HOUSE... I'M NEVER MOVING !" Vodka tonic with lime yum
@@babymans how much does it cost to get it back to blue?
Lol
Oh, and one more thing, the test strip Alkalinity readings are not very accurate. Get a regular OTO 4 way test kit (the one with the color changing solutions). Then retest the Alkalinity to get a more accurate reading.
Thanks heaps. The pool guy added a stack of salt bags but I added the last bag as I couldn't taste any salt in the water and crappy test strips said lowish, now realise too much but it must have been high already. How much of 60,000L will I need to drain off? Sorry, what is a heatee? I have tri flow zodiac with the PH controller added.
Same issue with the hardness, the test strips kept saying too low.
Many thanks
Prae
That is a lot of salt. I would reccomend draining some water out. maybe call the builder so he can do it properly. That kind of salt level will cause corrosion to the parts in your heatee (if you have one). I wait 2 months before I add salt as it tends to cause calcium buildup later. your calcium level is fine. I wouldn't worry about the Phosphates unless you have algae. Who added the salt for you by the way?
I am so confused after reading directions for shock and chlorine tablets- it says not to mix with other chemicals. Does this mean- do not mix it together before putting them into the pool, or does it mean I have to wait a time period for each chemicals to dissolve in the pool?
It is completely normal to add shock when there is chlorine in the pool. But you never want to combine different forms of chlorine (or any other pool chemicals) tighten or in a concentrated solution with water. They can interact adversely in that situation
Is yellow trine conditioner?
Conditioner as in pool sunscreen.
No, that is for algae. Conditioner is known also as Stabilizer or CYA - Cyanuric Acid
Hi, my 60K L peblecrete pool is only 2 weeks old and I have finally got the chemistry pretty good except, due to inacurate test strips, my salt is 5700 ppm and calcium 300.
My phosphate test strip is light blue saying phosphates are "high" but I have had no colour changes, water is crystal. 2 questions:
1. should I bother draining off to fix salt and Calcium levels?
2. Do I need to treat the phosphate?
thanks
What kind of acid are u using in the orange bottles and mixing it?
Muriatic Acid
Great video! well explained. Thank you
Your salt level is too low, most salt systems require at least 3200 ppm of salt. So add some salt to bring it up. Watch my video on lowering Total Alkalinity on my channel. You will need to get it down to about 150 ppm. Ideal range is 80-120ppm. As you lower it you will see a pretty constant acid demand. So keep adding Acid but be careful PH stays above 7.2. Add 1 or 2 gal of liquid chlorine to shock the pool. Once salt system is generating the chlorine reading will be 3.0 or above.
Before you treat the algae with the yellow chemical and chlorine do you brush it first ?
Yes, brush it first.
Thank you for the advice !Im servicing my first pool ever tomorrow morning
What is PH? You said its pretty high? How do I control it?
Just a term used to indicate the level of acidity or alkalinity of the pool water. Raise it with Borax or Soda Ash and lower it with Muriatic Acid
Thank you !!!!
These are different chemicals than the ones in your other video on maintaining an above ground pool. So I need different chemicals?
For an above ground pool I suggest liquid chlorine or bleach to prevent staining of the liner.
OK. thank you so so much. love your channel!
Wendy Clark I
can i as if muriatic acid is applicable in curing swimming pool
Just take some of your pool water over to Leslie's Pool Supplies and they test it for you and enter all the information in the system and it spits out your results and gives you a detailed list of things to do to correct the problems. They dont over sell you either so that is also nice.
Thanks!
Leslie’s practically invented “upselling”. It’s actually part of their retail associate training program
What store or website do you purchase your chemicalsfrom? Super Shockwave is hard to find. Thanks
At my local Superior Wholesaler.
Any 70+ percent cal hypo will do
T
After swimming one day, I had a metallic taste in my mouth, and I began to throw up shortly after. That was many years ago, but I still think about it for some reason. Probably because I want to know what caused it. Especially considering my friend and his kid were swimming in the same pool and were not affected by this. Any ideas?
Swallow less water
Have you ever tried the following Algeatech + Trichlore to kill the Algae?
Yes, I have use the Easy Care stuff - works well.
do you use regular detergent chlorine?
Regular Clorox, unscented
do you think its a good idea to completely replace liquid chlorine with dichlor ? expenses are equal between both? or its good to do a mix between liquid and granular chlorine? i would like to avoid the extra weight of the liquid chlorine for my route (100+accounts) thanks in advance
It's fine to use Dichlor to shock a pool but I would stil use a mix of liquid and Dichlor - as Dichlor does contain Cyanuric Acid in it and over time will raise a pools CYA levels.
I saw in the description that the ideal range for alkalinity is 80 - 120 ppm. I finished filling my Intex 16x48 pool yesterday and checked the alkalinity and its at 60ppm. Is this ok? I bought the HTH 6 way test kit from Walmart and on the instructions it says that ideal range for alkalinity is 60-120ppm. Should I leave it alone or bring it up? I am dissolving some conditioner in hot water so im not sure if I should change the alkalinity first or leave it alone.
Bring it up
I have a summer escape pool,need cleaning tips (first timer)..thanx
I just got a salt water system. I have a small pool 10' x 33" - I'm new to figuring this all out. Just tested it and I have 1770 ppm for sodium chloride according to the salt test strip. I did the 6 way test strip and it shows 0 free chlorine and 8.4 ph and 240 for the alkalinity. the total hardness and CYA read normal. What do I do to lower the PH and TA for a salt water pool of that small size?
Muratic acid lowers the ph
Appreciate the video man! Thanks!
I added some muratic acid to a pool and made the water turn yellow instantly. why would it do that?
What do I use to raise my Calcium Hardness level
Add Calcium Chloride.
Good Lord..... You have to be a Chemist in order to treat a damn pool!!!
Yep
My chemistry degree finally is good for something other than in the lab
Or just pay somebody to do the chemistry for you
What do you need for a saltwater system besides salt?
Just install the salt water generator and add the proper salt amount. Then use Muriatic Acid to control ther pH. That is it. No more liquid chlorine, shock or tablets.
Thanks!
So it's chlorine and acid....and yellow trim.
Don't these chemicals get absorbed through the skin?
Some can. I wear gloves when using them.
@@SPL how about when swimming in the pool?
Every single one of those chemicals is in every pool that you’ve ever swam in. There are several regulatory agencies that regulate pool chemistry and advise on the recommended levels. The dangerous pools are the ones with INSUFFICIENT chemicals so infectious bacteria, algae and viruses are plentiful
Does shock raise the ph
Depends. If you use Cal-Hypo then yes. Liquid Chlorine will also raise the pH. Dichlor is pH neutral and Tri-chor shock has a low pH so it won't raise it.
Id imagine some liquid chlorine and liquid acid but I'd let the expert answer!
NICE
I bought the house with the pool. The pool company came and opened the pool.I tested my water it has no ph or chlorine.I shoked the pool.What should I do next?What type of chemical should I buy?
Just raise the chlorine level and keep it at 3.0 ppm - get a good test kit and test the chlorine, pH and Alkalinity and try to balance the water - it may take some time.
There’s no such result as “no pH”. Less than 7 is acidic. Greater than 7 is basic. While there exists a solution of pH 0 that would be the strongest possible acid. That could exist in a laboratory but not in your pool - a pH if zero world be deadly to your pool surface (and anybody who stepped inside).
I give up there's too much chemical required
LOL 👍
Me too 🤕
I really like your instructions ( I seen few), but your voice is so soft that I am having difficulty hearing you at times...
This is why I swim in fresh water 100% chemical-free pools. I hate swimming in a chemical concoction
0:19 hey hope the chlorine does it make you sick wear gloves when handling chlorine
This bloke is using way to many chemicals
He’s merely demonstrating several different scenarios. Once the pool is balance very little chemicals are needed. His other videos explain how to minimize the use of chemicals to save money
SCP Products P.E.P better products
I know, but SCP is closer for me. 👍
one word. bleach.
Jacks up TDS overtime. No silver bullets.
@@terenceross6683 Nearly everything you add to your pool increases TDS over time. Except for tap water!
All those chemicals end up into your body when you are in the poor.
Your body is also made of chemicals. Once you learn pool chemistry there is no reason to be fearful. Your body has a Ph. Chlorine is in salt. Alkalinity is just baking soda. These are in every single pool that you ever swam in - and you survived!
@@drdrew3 There are chemicals that are natural, some of which are produced by the body and is needed to keep us alive and healthy.
Then there are chemicals that are manmade and are harmful. Do not assume that all chemicals are the same and are safe for humans to consume.