Nice experiment! LEDs are a blast to play around with. Very cheap for the amount of light you can get. Just a few comments for anyone who might want to duplicate this build: 1. You should never touch the yellow phosphor gel over a COB LED. If you press a little too hard, you can easily break bond wires, destroying the LED. 2. Running this many LEDs in parallel isn't a good idea, as they won't share current equally. LED temperature will be inversely proportional to forward voltage, and since the LEDs won't be identical, the LED with the lowest Vf will tend to get hotter (this effect is somewhat mitigated by having the LEDs thermally coupled so closely on the heat sink). The problem is mostly solved by running them in series strings, and the strings in parallel. In this case, with 15 LEDs, wire them in series strings of three with five strings in parallel, or better yet, series strings of five with three strings in parallel. The longer your series strings, the better the current sharing. The limiting factor is the maximum voltage of your driver. 3. Using a constant-voltage power supply like the ATX unit used in this video isn't the best technique. LEDs are current-dependent devices and should *always* be driven by a constant-current driver. The ATX supply will allow an LED that goes into thermal runaway to pull as much current as it can, resulting in rapid failure. There are plenty of inexpensive LED drivers available on eBay, Banggood, Deal Extreme, AliExpress, etc. Just look for the current output you need, with a maximum voltage that's at least as high as your series strings require. Remember to multiply LED current by the number of parallel strings. Voltage adds in series, current adds in parallel. 4. It's not necessary to run LEDs at their maximum current to get plenty of useful light from them. You can actually run them at
I have one question about the strip pattern suggestion though. How can I know the specifications for the driver I have to use, depending on the strip size? For instance, I have a strip of 5x10W LEDs in series, each rated 700mA like you suggested. How can I measure this to get a fitting driver? Thanks
+Henrique Arroyo Somewhere in the specifications for the LEDs you should find a number labeled Vf (forward voltage). If you have five LEDs in series, simply multiply Vf by 5. 10W COB LEDs usually have a Vf of 9-12V, so you would want a driver that's capable of 60V output (12x5). The more important number is the current rating of the LEDs. A 10W COB will typically want 700mA at full power, but like I wrote above, you don't need to push them that hard. For the situation you described, I would look for a 350mA driver with a max output voltage near 60V. If you have a bench power supply, it's easy to measure exactly what you need. Just set your supply to current limit at 350mA, then attach your LED string and turn the voltage up until it hits the current limit. The output voltage from your supply is the total Vf of the string. You'll probably find that it takes about 11V per LED. Here's an example of a driver that would work (it's the first one I found; not necessarily the cheapest)... preview.tinyurl.com/j45wjmz ...You want the one labeled "12-20x1W." Notice the output: 350mA, 34-68V. This driver is *constant current* -- it will create whatever voltage is required to push 350mA through the load.
Every time the solder makes a ball on top of the metal it means the metal is not hot enough. The ball does not have proper mechanical connection and this can lead to failure over time. In this case each joint between the LED and the long strip is very big, so most likely it will be fine. But giving it a few seconds longer to let the metal strip heat up and make proper connection to the solder would make a much nicer result - looks nicer as well.
thanks for this...dont know anything about soldering but I bought one and tried and I am the most fucked up guy when it comes to those..I am having trouble to stick it to the wires and even in the metal it just slips and falls to the ground..maybe I bought a bad soldering iron and led i dont know
@@mikebachmann4590 okay thanks I decided to be a tattoo artist now and yeah im about to buy a FLUX tattoo machine :) thanks tho ill remember it my whole life..flux
According to the 10W led datasheet, 10w LEDs are designed for a normal operation of 10v at 1Amp. Supplying the LEDs with 12v generates a lot of heat and reduce critically the lifespan of the LED. If you can to supply the 10w led with 12v, a 2.2 ohm @5w resistor is needed FOR EACH LED.
Not true. With these leds 10v is the point they start to produce light, but you can go up as much as you want. The only thing you have to keep in mind is to have lower current. P(watt) = U x I
Whats wrong with so many here? I enjoyed this video and learned a lot, I'm glad the owner used stuff like a drill and tapping threads because people like me may want to do something like this and don't have all the hi tec machinery to do it. Great Video!!!
I plan to build some strips for general lighting in our living room, and I will incorporate pulse width modulation for dimming capability when we don't want that much light. LED's and an amazing way to light.
Everything nice and tidy except: LEDs should be fed from source of constant current, not voltage. Also for continuous work you will need heatsink cca 3-4x larger or fan cooled. Also always hold COB with screws across chip, not only on one side. Also you use 10x more of thermal compound as it should be used, thick layer of paste decreases heat dissipation. Also... good job and continue to post your new DIY projects, guys!
I think there might be a misconception about heat sink grease. It needs to be as thin as possible so that there is still metal to metal contact. The grease fills any air gaps between the two surfaces. The grease conducts heat better than air does, but not as well as the aluminium. Ideally the metallic faces of the LED and heatsink would be fused together somehow into one continuous piece of metal with no grease necessary, but that's not practicable.
That's because there's a spring pushing it down on a CPU, you don't actually even need it. Here it may actually help a lot due to the way they've been screwed.
+Ducklord guys calm down, we went through that a couple of times in the comments already, this was made for shits and giggles and wast used after filming, ever.
watching him strip the threads in nearly every single hole using the tap... lmao then they used bigger self tapping screws, and snapped one off, such quality!
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I use a 564W LED headlamp on my motor-scooter, maybe I will try your circuit for a braking light for use when I drive on our highways where most of the truck drivers are using social drugs!
Excellent build but man....you gotta learn.... Tapping(setting threads) is a slow steady process.. It doesn't work like a standard drill bit... Chase threads, not too them out... Great build though, thumbs up!!
these are 5 watts led.... maximum sell this by saying 10 watts... but these are 5 to 7 watt max... i have tested them.. but its a real beauty.... very well done and yes the heat sink is not enough for all those leds but if you can attach a small high speed fan at one side it will be more cool and can run for longer time.... great work man....
DIY Garage Projects and reviews i am really honored... use a high speed fan at one side it will work even you will not need a constant current circuit. as a led starts consuming more current when it becomes hot but if you can keep it cool then it will not consume high current... i know this i have been working with this leds and supplying to studios as spot light and yet didnt got any bad report... just use a fan in the side which will blow air into the heat sink... and boom it will work fine.... really i loved your work... i willl make a little similar for my own use..... thanx for such a great vedio...
+Parasar Bhattacharya hey, when we saw that it works and it heats up like crazi, we took a server fan, that loud thick fan that could propell a plane probably haha, and atached it to a heatsink and directed the airflow with some sheet metal, it didnt overheat any more and we ran it for a half an hour without a problem, (still wouldnt reccomend it) ;)
Good video, but there are better ways to have run this setup. Running them all in parallel means you need a huge amperage and plus each LED is subject to slightly different current draw characteristic, meaning some will draw more than others and can harm themselves. Also it would be wise to mount around 6 fans to the back of this unit, without fans it will overheat in mere minutes and the LED's will die as they will draw so much current and burn themselves out. But the biggest improvement to be had would actually be to run these in series and not parallel, in series you are just using a higher voltage and lower current and it's safer for the LED's since you just need 1 good resistor before the series to keep them all safe. Because these are 12v LED's, you would be looking at 180 volts to run it in series. So then you are working with dangerous voltage obviously, so it would have to be enclosed. I personally like running LED's at 24v, it's a high enough voltage that electricity runs rather freely even over a few meters and isn't impeded easily. But it's also safe to handle, and you can fit in about 3x7 3.5v LED's in series with 24v. So I typically use 1 line of 1w LED's (7 of them) to make a light and you just have to use a 2-3 ohm resistor rated at half a watt. And for even more fun I like wiring up 7x5mm LED's, but wire 3 rows of them in parallel. So you have 21 of them all up which does put out a decent amount of power. You just need a resistor before each row, which is still only 3 resistors.
Oh, someone already told.. Sorry but that.. But still love the idea! Could be cool for a strobe light in a disco.. But still then I would hook a sensor to it for temperature control!
Dude, how are you? Please help me? Where can I buy this smd led like the one you used in the video? Both white light and uv light? I want to import here to Brazil. Can you give me that indication? Thanks man!
Well, you can buy 150 W quite easily, them put it on heat sing. But there is point in this project because more modules mean that heat is less concentrated(i guess) witch mean higher life spam, if you gonna under drive those i guess those should life quite long. PS. Actually i brought similar (if not same)10 W modules because there were so cheap (1.07 PLN/~$0.25 with SHIPMENT ! ) except i chose warm white, because i like warm colour and i plan use one for be my night lamp with under driving them to get higher life spam.
Gentlemen, I have a question. The light looks great! I am considering using an led chip(s) to make a flounder gigging light. My question(s) are, since I know little about leds, are: Using a 24volt dc power supply and maybe one 50 watt chip, how long can I hope that the batteries will hold out using a booster? The light will be used underwater off the front of the boat mounted to a heatsink and encased in clear epoxy to prevent water damage and to help cooling.
LEDs are stable in current not in voltage, that's means you can't put them shunt mode. the better way is to put 3 led in series and a resister 1 Ohm 2W in series, you make 5 of this circuits put that in shunt and powered that with constant current of 4.75 A with max Voltage of 37 V ( LEDs have NTC so the Vf will drop when temperature rise, so at the end the led will blow if you feed them with constant voltage ) A LED is a constant Current Semiconductor
DIY Garage Projects and reviews super. how about aluminium plate or sheet for heat sink? because I have some 3 or 4 smps which can be made use of. could work this out
Tapping by cordless drill is a very bad idea. You can easily destroy a tap. You should do it very precisely by hand tool gentle and slow, using an oil. It shoud be a set of three tap tools, one by one. They have numbers 1, 2, 3 (first, second and third to finish).
there are taps specially made for this use :) sure "normal" ones tend to break if theyr normaly for hand "tapping" ... i prefer to use them in a Drill Press instead of using an Cordless Drill because of the precision... and you see they used some lubricant in the video... oil is not the only lubricant u can use i use methylated spirits (Spiritus in German) which works perfect :) have a good one :)
Quick question, It seems to me that you connected the +12V rail of power supply directly to the LEDs. I was under the impression that for this to work, you would need to have a current-limiting step in between, as a true input of 12V would force the current to be very very high (due to the nonlinear V I curve of LEDs). I guess my question is then, how come the LEDs didn't get instantly fried?! You are breaking my mind over here :P
+grotescoguru instantly nob, but they are dieing fast, 12v is not high enough tokill them instantly on a heatsink, they are cheap buy one and try it out, i used one on a cpu heatsink with pc powersuply for months and it still works, it drew 1.3A which is pretty high but not enough to kill it instantly
Thanks for the quick reply! Yeah I searched a bit more and I've seen cases of LEDs lasting for only seconds before saying goodbye, but i guess it really comes down to the particular LED/Supply combo. I want to do something a lot like you've done here, but I want it to last as long as it possibly can so RN i am searching the interwebs for current regulator schematics that can handle, say, 50-100 Watts Anyways great too know that a current regulator may not be 100% needed, thanks for uploading this!
+grotescoguru search no more, it is so cheap it is not worth it, all you need is 150w step up power suply from the ebay, i have a few, you feed it 12v and on the output you get anything from 12 to 37v regulated, then buy a single 50w led cob put it on a heatsink and you are good to go
Yeah i just looked that up, they are only a couple bucks! that kinda takes the cost out of the DIY equation lol, though i might still do it to have it sooner (i live in south america's tip, shipping is my mortal enemy). I gotta finalize the whole design but it is looking to be a LOT cheaper than i previously thougth.
+grotescoguru yeah, i know what you mean, i would also give a few bucks more just to avoid shipping, usually it takes around 3 weeks to ship something, but i dont think i could make that efficient step up converter, since i dont have a store here to find all the parts that i need
That is bright. I don't understand why you brought attention to the power supply at 12 volts at 62 amps. 150 watts at 12 volts is 12.5 amps. Do the LEDs have current limiting in them
I'm not bothered by the screws, I'm bothered with not using them diagonally! One should never use the screws the way shown in video, it is a bad practice.
I used only three of these LEDs on a project and they got so hot on a 4" X 4" heat sink you could not touch the sink after three minutes. I wonder how long your masking tape would last under that much heat! Nice project.
this is a great video, but i would appreciate if you can post the link of where you bought all the equipments. i'm really in need of light like this and would want to do it myself.
Robert s I did a quick google search and found this: celsiainc.com/heat-sink-size-calculator Hope it helps. Also, I highly recommend going to instructables.com for some step-by-step instructions on different LED projects. Cheers
+the chemist not sure if i could do it, decen power led need cooling so making it waterprof is a bit hard, i would pour clear epoxy over it but heatsink would need to be exposed, nice experiment i will try that
Nice work but there are a lot of repetitive tasks in this video which you could have cut out while editing in order to shorten the length of the video.
what is that tape that you used under the LEDs..and can i just use a 12v cellphone charger to light up this LEDs? coz i ordered online exactly the same LED..ty for your answer,,I subscribed I love your projects
Das Teil ist spitze, eine " LICHTEXPLOSION " Hut ab, ich bleibe aber dennoch bei meinen 1 Watt, 700mA LED für mein Aquarium, das ist überschaubarer, Amper und so.
Nice burn mark on the left thumb! Ouch! Just a hint... I kept hitting my right arrow on the keyboard to skip past all the repeat processes. If you only showed two maybe three (marking the holes, drilling, tapping, soldering...) it would have been a great video and informative without all the repetition.
Those screws don't actually match the threads you cut, do they? loos super fine putch on the tap, but super corse on the screw. Or is that some kind of optical illusion? Oh, and i too tried to solder with that crappy conrad iron once, its a real pain, and it emits sooooo much heat it feels like holing a red hot nail in your hand...
Ah, now i see it, let me guess: you used a metric tap and imperial bolts (or wise versa maybe?), so they didn't fit right. Thats when you decided to actually use woodscrews mainly? :)
10w led 20 of those have installed LED heatsink and connect it to the car I want 12 v but some do not light up and other flash adapter should I use to illuminate some fine thanks
Alex Garcia.r1 I have done the same, but because a fully charged car battery is about 14v, I used 20 voltage regulators to make the voltage 12v instead of 14 to prevent damage to the leds. It is working really well.
What drill do you use man? Drilling and tapping metal for me is a nightmare without using a drill press, but its straight butter for you with a cordless. I'm really curious.
not sure this would be considered 150w led just cause it's rated for doesn't mean you get 10w out each led. would need to know the exact voltage draw and current draw. voltage x current = actual watt consumption.
+Common Sense since no voltage or current regulation is used here, led were run at 12v, so basicaly it was more than 150w, thats why it was heating so much, without proper current regualtion this cant be used without damaging the leds over time, this was made for fun and not for practical use.
i need some help with a project just got my leds what im trying to build is a light bar for my rc truck 12 leds and want to run it off a batt and the batt is 7.4v its one i use for my rc truck what resister will i need and thanks
Thats what I wondering.. As I know, LED has a current value to works. So if you give more current for it, they will burn. Perhaps in this example the power can not supply the maximum current because the voltage drop down under the required 12V.. I don't known, but very interesting. I hope someone will explain it. :)
LEDs shall be fed from constant current source, as their internal resistance lowers when they heat up. With stabilised voltage source as PSU from PC you can light them up for a very short while, after some time they would go into Thermal runaway and become useless. The PSU used here is nice voltage source with enough power to feed the current into paralel strings of those high power(and current hungry) LEDs, but you shall add separate constant current drivers to each led or simply current mirror. I am currently designing circuits to light up our house, got 100x 10W LEDs just like these, so ... Lets see, maybe there will be some bright moments in my life soon :)
is it still work after 5-6 months? how long you turn on LED until it get hot? thanks a lot for this video, I want to make it for still life photography.
+Ragil Setio Pranowo no we dissasembled it, it worked till then, i think this is too bright for photography, i would use maybe 5, actually i would take 2 50w one cool white and one warm white LED 2 step up drivers (3 usd each) and, and i would mount them on the same heatsink close to eachothes, that way i can regulate brightness of both of them individually for best quality lighting
Hello! I have a question that whether it is possible to make 15, 10W LED chip lamps that run off batteries ? If yes, then how powerful batteries would be needed to operate the lamp for at least 5 hours
From a mechanical point of view good work. Electrically the design is in my point of view a fail: You need a current source to drive a LED, not a constant voltage source. In addition to that the LEDs surly don't match, therefore you shouldn't connect them in parallel.
You should not put them in parallel. This circuit will fail and LEDs will blow up spectacularly LEDs need to be exactly matched for parallel. Which is already not recommended for normal LEDs , with COB AND 15 of them it's just a fire hazard waiting to happen.
Hi, I am using a MEAN WELL LPC-60-1400 and the specs say 3-13 CREE 3V LEDs in series (please ensure LEDs can handle 1400mA) I am using 10X5W Led in series and the LEDS burn out after a few days of usage. I am mounting the LEDS on a piece of extruded aluminum which is about 3 feet long with thermo paste. I also have fans blowing down on it and it feels hot but not extremely hot. These LEDs keep burning out and it's really driving me nuts. I tried to replaced the burned out LEDS but they keep burning out one by one. Is it the quality of the LED or am I doing something wrong? Here are the speces of the LEDS I am using. 1W~5W LED Emitted Color: White Color Temperature: 6500K Brightness: 493LM DC Forward Voltage (VF): 3.2V-3.6Vdc DC Forward Current (IF): 350mA~1500mA LED Driver MEAN WELL LPC-60-1400 CONSTANT CURRENT LED DRIVER www.rapidled.com/mean-well-lpc-60-1400-constant-current-driver/ Please help me thanks!
So.. You are really driving all LEDs in parallel and attach them on 12V constant voltage? You don't need such a high voltage for only one LED in series. Get your specsheets ready and calculate the necessary current. Then use the voltage needed by the chip. Thats all
Sir if I make same 150w light and use it with 56w 11.1v and 4.8ah battery how much hours do u think this light will work for? Sir please help ur help......!!!
I have a question. when you were soldering the chips together, did you first orient them connecting positive with negative? or did you solder all positives together and then all negatives together? .
+Tom Rodbend They are connected in parallel, all 15 positives connected together, and all negatives together, thats the only way this an work on a 12v pover supply without voltage boost
Awesome. So as long as Ihave a power supply with 12VDC and be able to supply enough Amps then my wattage doesn't matter eh? I'm working on a garden greenhouse system. Dud you find that the heatsink u used was enough or did you get any burnouts?
+Tom Rodbend no, this was made for fun, and is a wrong way of powering leds, if you have enough power on your powersupply use it with a boost converter, they are not expensive and will save you from burning those leds, you can regulate voltage and current going through them, connecting them directly to a 12v power supply will kill them eventually, you should connect them in a combinaton of series and parallel and use a boost converter
Nice project. But without 3 or 5 funs this canot last more than 20minutes , the diodes will meld down. Also PC powewr supply not suitable for this it can last about 5 months then must be replaced with special LEd power supply also with good fun.
No need to buy anything special for those connections, a length of standard, solid 14ga. household electric wire with the insulation stripped off would work fine. Since it would sink away heat faster you would need a little higher wattage soldering iron, but a 30W iron with a good/clean/stout tip could solder that easily if using standard 63/37 or 60/40 solder instead of higher temperature lead free solder... maybe even then. You don't even need to buy such electrical wire, just drive by a new home or other building construction right after the electrician has wired it (same day for best odds) and there will be scraps of wire left behind in the trash, or ask your neighbors as lots of people have spare mains AC wiring lying about.
Schön hell.. aber so wie du es gemacht hast bekomme ich echt die Motten bei..... Was ist mit Strombegrenzung... ei sollte jede LED eine eigene haben.. sonst kann es passieren beim Nachregeln des SNT das die Led´s dir alle flöten gehen.und dann diese Art Stromschiene.... und dann zum Schluss die adern so.... So sicherheitsmässig sehe ich keine Probleme. Aber schön ist anders :x
It will need a heat sink fan if run more than briefly. It may have too much thermal compound - it normally should be a very thin film. You need more practice tapping ...
bestamerica except he taped part of the fins. The tape on those walls will effectively minimize the surface area exposed to the air. Reducing the convective rating of the heat sink.
HELLO ME WISH I DID HELP ME EAST OR SIMILAR BUT I WISH BAR CONNECTING TO MY AUTO 12V LED NO BUT SOME LIGHT AND OTHERS HAVE TO USE ANY FLASHING RELAY DRIVER OR RESISTANCE THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
Please answer me! What about the Current regulation???? Each led works with 900ma. The power supply is 60a. Don't you need a device that controls the current??? On the contrary, will burn and the lifetime led is drastically reduced. What kind of device can use to drive all 15 leds safely????
+Sena Fernandes there are some current resistors on the board already, and they are connected in series with the leds, there are 4 leds in series with a resistor, you dont need any device
Thanks for your answer but I sometimes I complain about some video because they normally are produced without details and video producers forget that most of the viewers are looking for answers and the maximum details possible. If u are using some resistors each 4 leds according to your affirmation I don't see been showing on you video and if u use the resistor model for this use? If u think necessary make another video with more detail on the contrary just explain. Thanks an I'm sorry if I was ignorant .....
+Sena Fernandes no its okay to ask questions and im glad to answer them, i didnt put any resistor that is why you didnt see me soldeting them, what i meant is that there are resistors already on the board, the original leds use them, so no need to add any, i just changed the original leds with those aftermarket ones, no need for any more resistors since they are already on the board
+Sena Fernandes no its okay to ask questions and im glad to answer them, i didnt put any resistor that is why you didnt see me soldeting them, what i meant is that there are resistors already on the board, the original leds use them, so no need to add any, i just changed the original leds with those aftermarket ones, no need for any more resistors since they are already on the board
Ok thanks but remember that normally the leds comes without resistors so you could make some commentary on top of this subject quite important. Best regards.....
Federico Allegretti he tapped the holes. Threading is when a die is used to cut or form the male portion, and tapping is when a tap is used to for the female portion. Either way, he's not using self tapping screws.
0:14 / 0:15 NEVER touch the yellow part of such a LED!!! It's important! The LED chips are embedded directly in it. The thin wires may break or bend and cause shorts and the fat on the skin will cause permanent damage.
Nice experiment! LEDs are a blast to play around with. Very cheap for the amount of light you can get.
Just a few comments for anyone who might want to duplicate this build:
1. You should never touch the yellow phosphor gel over a COB LED. If you press a little too hard, you can easily break bond wires, destroying the LED.
2. Running this many LEDs in parallel isn't a good idea, as they won't share current equally. LED temperature will be inversely proportional to forward voltage, and since the LEDs won't be identical, the LED with the lowest Vf will tend to get hotter (this effect is somewhat mitigated by having the LEDs thermally coupled so closely on the heat sink). The problem is mostly solved by running them in series strings, and the strings in parallel. In this case, with 15 LEDs, wire them in series strings of three with five strings in parallel, or better yet, series strings of five with three strings in parallel. The longer your series strings, the better the current sharing. The limiting factor is the maximum voltage of your driver.
3. Using a constant-voltage power supply like the ATX unit used in this video isn't the best technique. LEDs are current-dependent devices and should *always* be driven by a constant-current driver. The ATX supply will allow an LED that goes into thermal runaway to pull as much current as it can, resulting in rapid failure. There are plenty of inexpensive LED drivers available on eBay, Banggood, Deal Extreme, AliExpress, etc. Just look for the current output you need, with a maximum voltage that's at least as high as your series strings require. Remember to multiply LED current by the number of parallel strings. Voltage adds in series, current adds in parallel.
4. It's not necessary to run LEDs at their maximum current to get plenty of useful light from them. You can actually run them at
+FlyingShotsman by far the best comment this video received, everyone who wants to comment should read this, thank you
very nice explained
FlyingShotsman Working with leds for many years now, i can only say to your comment, AGREED!
I have one question about the strip pattern suggestion though.
How can I know the specifications for the driver I have to use, depending on the strip size? For instance, I have a strip of 5x10W LEDs in series, each rated 700mA like you suggested. How can I measure this to get a fitting driver?
Thanks
+Henrique Arroyo
Somewhere in the specifications for the LEDs you should find a number labeled Vf (forward voltage). If you have five LEDs in series, simply multiply Vf by 5. 10W COB LEDs usually have a Vf of 9-12V, so you would want a driver that's capable of 60V output (12x5).
The more important number is the current rating of the LEDs. A 10W COB will typically want 700mA at full power, but like I wrote above, you don't need to push them that hard. For the situation you described, I would look for a 350mA driver with a max output voltage near 60V.
If you have a bench power supply, it's easy to measure exactly what you need. Just set your supply to current limit at 350mA, then attach your LED string and turn the voltage up until it hits the current limit. The output voltage from your supply is the total Vf of the string. You'll probably find that it takes about 11V per LED.
Here's an example of a driver that would work (it's the first one I found; not necessarily the cheapest)...
preview.tinyurl.com/j45wjmz
...You want the one labeled "12-20x1W." Notice the output: 350mA, 34-68V. This driver is *constant current* -- it will create whatever voltage is required to push 350mA through the load.
why people dislike this video
it need hard-work as well as the most precious thing "TIME"
I really appreciate your efforts.
great job
Every time the solder makes a ball on top of the metal it means the metal is not hot enough. The ball does not have proper mechanical connection and this can lead to failure over time.
In this case each joint between the LED and the long strip is very big, so most likely it will be fine. But giving it a few seconds longer to let the metal strip heat up and make proper connection to the solder would make a much nicer result - looks nicer as well.
Yes you good heat up both contacts
thanks for this...dont know anything about soldering but I bought one and tried and I am the most fucked up guy when it comes to those..I am having trouble to stick it to the wires and even in the metal it just slips and falls to the ground..maybe I bought a bad soldering iron and led i dont know
@@HeyWhatsNewToday clean the tip of the gun and add flux
@@mikebachmann4590 okay thanks I decided to be a tattoo artist now and yeah im about to buy a FLUX tattoo machine :) thanks tho ill remember it my whole life..flux
It is so relaxing to watch you hard working. Nice project!
+Qualitaetspruefer thank you
Qualitaetspruefer It wasn't that hard, some parts were running at 4 times normal speed. lol
According to the 10W led datasheet, 10w LEDs are designed for a normal operation of 10v at 1Amp. Supplying the LEDs with 12v generates a lot of heat and reduce critically the lifespan of the LED. If you can to supply the 10w led with 12v, a 2.2 ohm @5w resistor is needed FOR EACH LED.
Not true. With these leds 10v is the point they start to produce light, but you can go up as much as you want. The only thing you have to keep in mind is to have lower current. P(watt) = U x I
The heat sink seems pretty small for such led power !!
Whats wrong with so many here? I enjoyed this video and learned a lot, I'm glad the owner used stuff like a drill and tapping threads because people like me may want to do something like this and don't have all the hi tec machinery to do it. Great Video!!!
J Garrett क्यायल मरमत
Don't even have a god damn soldering iron haha. Id have to heat a nail over the cooker with a pair of pliers 😅
Hahah this comment wins it all
I plan to build some strips for general lighting in our living room, and I will incorporate pulse width modulation for dimming capability when we don't want that much light. LED's and an amazing way to light.
Everything nice and tidy except: LEDs should be fed from source of constant current, not voltage. Also for continuous work you will need heatsink cca 3-4x larger or fan cooled. Also always hold COB with screws across chip, not only on one side. Also you use 10x more of thermal compound as it should be used, thick layer of paste decreases heat dissipation. Also... good job and continue to post your new DIY projects, guys!
I think there might be a misconception about heat sink grease. It needs to be as thin as possible so that there is still metal to metal contact. The grease fills any air gaps between the two surfaces. The grease conducts heat better than air does, but not as well as the aluminium. Ideally the metallic faces of the LED and heatsink would be fused together somehow into one continuous piece of metal with no grease necessary, but that's not practicable.
thin but even, thumbs up
It's been tested on a CPU adding to much only makes 2-4 C difference.
That's because there's a spring pushing it down on a CPU, you don't actually even need it. Here it may actually help a lot due to the way they've been screwed.
+Ducklord guys calm down, we went through that a couple of times in the comments already, this was made for shits and giggles and wast used after filming, ever.
watching him strip the threads in nearly every single hole using the tap... lmao
then they used bigger self tapping screws, and snapped one off, such quality!
Got a video doing better?
I don't need a video to show that's some half assed mechanical assembly!
I need a video!!!
+TheyDontWantMusic then find another video
TheyDontWantMusic We don't need losers like you.
Heat dissipation? Fuck it.
thechosendude ain't nobody got time fo dat
It is not that bad with 10W LEDs. I built similar last year strip with 10x10W LEDs and single 20x20mm aluminium profile was enough to cool them down.
I do a lot of these, love the music, thermal glue is easier, never failed for me All the best
+yagoa thanks, i should buy me some of that thermal glue, woukd be much easier
Kafuter K-5203 is pretty good and very cheap, try to have an extra around so you dont get screwed if you forget the lid off :)
if it gets bent to many times it will leak and dry up
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-80g-Kafuter-K-5203-Heatsink-CPU-Thermal-Conductive-Silicon-Grease-Paste-Glue-Adhesive-LED/32650730499.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.2.921B2C&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_116_10065_117_10068_114_115_113_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10037_10054_10059_10032_10099_10078_10079_10077_426_10103_10073_10102_10096_10052_10050_10051,searchweb201603_1&btsid=bf97222c-ac57-4559-b996-0749c48713e5
slow curing silicone based so leave it for a day
I enjoy the video, thanks for sharing. Just a constructive comment. Even watching at 2X speed was way too long.
Yeah... you just need to show the first and last of every application...
Changet alot since then, appreciate the helpfull comment
Background music name please?
Guys check out my latest video LED portable Monster worklight ---- ruclips.net/video/52eGvcWbhKE/видео.html&ab_channel=DIYGarageProjectsandreviews ----
DIY Garage Projects and reviews E
Ill sub if you list the parts used in this video, I would like to try this, but with less leds.
Is that thermo paste?
Yes
можно и от 220 последовательно но ставить деодный мост и конденсатор
4 of these should do it for my bike.
I need to fight bright lights with BRIGHTER BRIGHTS. Tired of being blinded by oncoming CAGERS.
. 8D .
I use a 564W LED headlamp on my motor-scooter, maybe I will try your circuit for a braking light for use when I drive on our highways where most of the truck drivers are using social drugs!
Can i see that 564w led headlamp?
you dont need tp show you puting 15 led put in one then cut the camera to the last one
Hot monster! But why are they spaced so close to each other? the light has angle so why put them so close?
Excellent build but man....you gotta learn.... Tapping(setting threads) is a slow steady process.. It doesn't work like a standard drill bit... Chase threads, not too them out... Great build though, thumbs up!!
As you can see from other comments, they did not do anything right in this video.
these are 5 watts led.... maximum sell this by saying 10 watts... but these are 5 to 7 watt max... i have tested them.. but its a real beauty.... very well done and yes the heat sink is not enough for all those leds but if you can attach a small high speed fan at one side it will be more cool and can run for longer time.... great work man....
+Hallucinogenichusky yes they are runing at full power, they heat up so much that thermal pase starts to evaporate
+Parasar Bhattacharya thank you, this was made for fun, and it is overheating so it needs a constant current source and a fan :) thanks for watching
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i am really honored... use a high speed fan at one side it will work even you will not need a constant current circuit. as a led starts consuming more current when it becomes hot but if you can keep it cool then it will not consume high current... i know this i have been working with this leds and supplying to studios as spot light and yet didnt got any bad report... just use a fan in the side which will blow air into the heat sink... and boom it will work fine.... really i loved your work... i willl make a little similar for my own use..... thanx for such a great vedio...
+Parasar Bhattacharya hey, when we saw that it works and it heats up like crazi, we took a server fan, that loud thick fan that could propell a plane probably haha, and atached it to a heatsink and directed the airflow with some sheet metal, it didnt overheat any more and we ran it for a half an hour without a problem, (still wouldnt reccomend it) ;)
+Parasar Bhattacharya thanks for your awesome comment
Good video, but there are better ways to have run this setup. Running them all in parallel means you need a huge amperage and plus each LED is subject to slightly different current draw characteristic, meaning some will draw more than others and can harm themselves. Also it would be wise to mount around 6 fans to the back of this unit, without fans it will overheat in mere minutes and the LED's will die as they will draw so much current and burn themselves out.
But the biggest improvement to be had would actually be to run these in series and not parallel, in series you are just using a higher voltage and lower current and it's safer for the LED's since you just need 1 good resistor before the series to keep them all safe. Because these are 12v LED's, you would be looking at 180 volts to run it in series. So then you are working with dangerous voltage obviously, so it would have to be enclosed.
I personally like running LED's at 24v, it's a high enough voltage that electricity runs rather freely even over a few meters and isn't impeded easily. But it's also safe to handle, and you can fit in about 3x7 3.5v LED's in series with 24v.
So I typically use 1 line of 1w LED's (7 of them) to make a light and you just have to use a 2-3 ohm resistor rated at half a watt.
And for even more fun I like wiring up 7x5mm LED's, but wire 3 rows of them in parallel. So you have 21 of them all up which does put out a decent amount of power. You just need a resistor before each row, which is still only 3 resistors.
Maybe if you've added some cold ice to that sink it won't kill the leds!
I've a 20 watt led and the heatsink is 10 times that 😀
Oh, someone already told.. Sorry but that.. But still love the idea!
Could be cool for a strobe light in a disco.. But still then I would hook a sensor to it for temperature control!
nog nooit gehoord van "slang"? Nee denk het ook niet.. Dat niveau Engels leer je niet in de brugklas
now blow up the deathstar plz
Dude, how are you?
Please help me? Where can I buy this smd led like the one you used in the video? Both white light and uv light?
I want to import here to Brazil.
Can you give me that indication?
Thanks man!
Well, you can buy 150 W quite easily, them put it on heat sing.
But there is point in this project because more modules mean that heat is less concentrated(i guess) witch mean higher life spam, if you gonna under drive those i guess those should life quite long.
PS. Actually i brought similar (if not same)10 W modules because there were so cheap (1.07 PLN/~$0.25 with SHIPMENT ! ) except i chose warm white, because i like warm colour and i plan use one for be my night lamp with under driving them to get higher life spam.
Gentlemen, I have a question. The light looks great! I am considering using an led chip(s) to make a flounder gigging light. My question(s) are, since I know little about leds, are: Using a 24volt dc power supply and maybe one 50 watt chip, how long can I hope that the batteries will hold out using a booster? The light will be used underwater off the front of the boat mounted to a heatsink and encased in clear epoxy to prevent water damage and to help cooling.
Nice video nice build thanks
Thanks
LEDs are stable in current not in voltage, that's means you can't put them shunt mode. the better way is to put 3 led in series and a resister 1 Ohm 2W in series, you make 5 of this circuits put that in shunt and powered that with constant current of 4.75 A with max Voltage of 37 V ( LEDs have NTC so the Vf will drop when temperature rise, so at the end the led will blow if you feed them with constant voltage ) A LED is a constant Current Semiconductor
good video. what is the cost of the build
+VIDEO EPPO you can buy 15 10w leds for around 10usd on ebay, heatsink we salvaged from an old server so i dont know about the cost of that
DIY Garage Projects and reviews super. how about aluminium plate or sheet for heat sink? because I have some 3 or 4 smps which can be made use of. could work this out
+VIDEO EPPO you can use anything, as long as you controll current so it doesnt overheat
Super! Thanks. Will post a video when I do this.
+VIDEO EPPO great, i will sub to see that
Tapping by cordless drill is a very bad idea. You can easily destroy a tap. You should do it very precisely by hand tool gentle and slow, using an oil. It shoud be a set of three tap tools, one by one. They have numbers 1, 2, 3 (first, second and third to finish).
there are taps specially made for this use :) sure "normal" ones tend to break if theyr normaly for hand "tapping" ... i prefer to use them in a Drill Press instead of using an Cordless Drill because of the precision... and you see they used some lubricant in the video... oil is not the only lubricant u can use i use methylated spirits (Spiritus in German) which works perfect :) have a good one :)
WoW!!! Niceeee! I will make this.... I need remplace fluorescent for Led jojo... Good Jobs ant thx for show us..
best of luck guys
I think the heatsink is so small for the total of LEDs, but for momentary use is ok.
+MICKTO definitely is
put some pc fans on top of the sink, then you're good to go.
MiCKTO Stop thinking. . .
Definitely. The LEDs will blow in 10 min.
+Vince C will it? I mean i would know right?
Congratulations on the project! how do i do a 150w driver to connect these leds how do i connect 15 leds 10w 30v my network is 110v here! Thank you
Damn that thing will illuminate the sun. ^^
are you guys twins or was the previous project a cloning experiment? Nice work.
No we are not brothers :)
Quick question, It seems to me that you connected the +12V rail of power supply directly to the LEDs. I was under the impression that for this to work, you would need to have a current-limiting step in between, as a true input of 12V would force the current to be very very high (due to the nonlinear V I curve of LEDs). I guess my question is then, how come the LEDs didn't get instantly fried?!
You are breaking my mind over here :P
+grotescoguru instantly nob, but they are dieing fast, 12v is not high enough tokill them instantly on a heatsink, they are cheap buy one and try it out, i used one on a cpu heatsink with pc powersuply for months and it still works, it drew 1.3A which is pretty high but not enough to kill it instantly
Thanks for the quick reply! Yeah I searched a bit more and I've seen cases of LEDs lasting for only seconds before saying goodbye, but i guess it really comes down to the particular LED/Supply combo.
I want to do something a lot like you've done here, but I want it to last as long as it possibly can so RN i am searching the interwebs for current regulator schematics that can handle, say, 50-100 Watts
Anyways great too know that a current regulator may not be 100% needed, thanks for uploading this!
+grotescoguru search no more, it is so cheap it is not worth it, all you need is 150w step up power suply from the ebay, i have a few, you feed it 12v and on the output you get anything from 12 to 37v regulated, then buy a single 50w led cob put it on a heatsink and you are good to go
Yeah i just looked that up, they are only a couple bucks! that kinda takes the cost out of the DIY equation lol, though i might still do it to have it sooner (i live in south america's tip, shipping is my mortal enemy). I gotta finalize the whole design but it is looking to be a LOT cheaper than i previously thougth.
+grotescoguru yeah, i know what you mean, i would also give a few bucks more just to avoid shipping, usually it takes around 3 weeks to ship something, but i dont think i could make that efficient step up converter, since i dont have a store here to find all the parts that i need
That is bright. I don't understand why you brought attention to the power supply at 12 volts at 62 amps. 150 watts at 12 volts is 12.5 amps. Do the LEDs have current limiting in them
Just wanted to show what psu i used i did not say that leds drew 62amps, and that psu is bad for there leds anyway
Good experiment
Kindly use same type of screws for mounting all LEDs. That may look better.
+Muhammed Shafeeque Muhammed Shafeeque we didnt have that much at the time, and it was sunday :(
I'm not bothered by the screws, I'm bothered with not using them diagonally! One should never use the screws the way shown in video, it is a bad practice.
+mbaksa i agree, one on each side is a must, for a better contact between a heatsink and led, something didnt allow us to do that, dont remember what
Aaand you have your studio lighting. :D Just make sure no birds can fly in the death ray... :D
+Zoltán Herczeg Studio light and a heater 2 in 1 :D
I used only three of these LEDs on a project and they got so hot on a 4" X 4" heat sink you could not touch the sink after three minutes. I wonder how long your masking tape would last under that much heat! Nice project.
this is a great video, but i would appreciate if you can post the link of where you bought all the equipments. i'm really in need of light like this and would want to do it myself.
These LEDs are connected directly to 12 volts, it is not necessary Resistor? And how many amps are needed?
Thank you
+Daniel Fernandes these leds work from 9-12v and they take too much current at 12v and overheat, so youneed to limit the current or lover the voltage
good interrogatory lighting system!
don't you think that this video is too much long?😕
+Romee Asmar its okay mate, i agree it is poorly edited, i will do a better job next time i hope
+Romee Asmar i have sent you an email
great video, but your friend needs some real, real, bad meds for that wart!! just saying
You can't leave it on for 5 minutes because they will burn out without some additional HEAVY cooling.
Yes they are overheating
Hi. Stupid question. Where I can find aluminium heat sink calculator for leds?to not uses ventilation. cheers
Robert s I did a quick google search and found this:
celsiainc.com/heat-sink-size-calculator
Hope it helps. Also, I highly recommend going to instructables.com for some step-by-step instructions on different LED projects.
Cheers
Can I make this battery powered and use it with a switch how do I do thanks plz reply
i was a bit concerned as to how close the rails were to the screws, isn't there any chance of touching and making the whole heatsink live?!?
Thanks for the nice music and the nice diy too :)
can you build a pair of led lights that can go under water for bully netting lobsters if so what would you charge love your work!!
+the chemist not sure if i could do it, decen power led need cooling so making it waterprof is a bit hard, i would pour clear epoxy over it but heatsink would need to be exposed, nice experiment i will try that
Nice work but there are a lot of repetitive tasks in this video which you could have cut out while editing in order to shorten the length of the video.
that is very nice than powerful and very bright 😍😋😋
what is that tape that you used under the LEDs..and can i just use a 12v cellphone charger to light up this LEDs? coz i ordered online exactly the same LED..ty for your answer,,I subscribed I love your projects
Das Teil ist spitze, eine " LICHTEXPLOSION " Hut ab, ich bleibe aber dennoch bei meinen 1 Watt, 700mA LED für mein Aquarium, das ist überschaubarer, Amper und so.
Nice burn mark on the left thumb! Ouch!
Just a hint... I kept hitting my right arrow on the keyboard to skip past all the repeat processes.
If you only showed two maybe three (marking the holes, drilling, tapping, soldering...) it would have been a great video and informative without all the repetition.
Don't tell him how to make a video, f*** right off goof!
Those screws don't actually match the threads you cut, do they? loos super fine putch on the tap, but super corse on the screw. Or is that some kind of optical illusion?
Oh, and i too tried to solder with that crappy conrad iron once, its a real pain, and it emits sooooo much heat it feels like holing a red hot nail in your hand...
Ah, now i see it, let me guess: you used a metric tap and imperial bolts (or wise versa maybe?), so they didn't fit right. Thats when you decided to actually use woodscrews mainly? :)
No, he just drilled out all the holes using the tap, instead of actually tapping a thread... lol
10w led 20 of those have installed LED heatsink and connect it to the car I want 12 v but some do not light up and other flash adapter should I use to illuminate some fine thanks
I think maybe the problem is the voltage for LEDs, no all LED have same voltage.
Alex Garcia.r1
I have done the same, but because a fully charged car battery is about 14v, I used 20 voltage regulators to make the voltage 12v instead of 14 to prevent damage to the leds.
It is working really well.
IsbjörnXII yiii
IsbjörnXII1 Should have gone down to 10 volts, increases the factory promised lifetime of the cobs 3 times.
I'll do that when they start breaking. :D They're cheap as fuck on ebay.
What drill do you use man? Drilling and tapping metal for me is a nightmare without using a drill press, but its straight butter for you with a cordless. I'm really curious.
How Do I do 5 X 10w led strip the same way in this video ? How much volts and ampere woul I need to light to its highest lumens ?
Same voltage i am looking at running too. Its a project for outside lighting. Somewhat a spotlight. Looking at luxeon star leds
+King Wayne if you want a spotlight like efect you can use lenses, there are some 22mm lenses on ebay they are 1$ per 10 with free shipping
Thanks. With that voltage. Does the temps skyrocket after an overnight period of use?
+King Wayne never tried, but i bet with even small heatsink temps would stabilize
+King Wayne never tried, but i bet with even small heatsink temps would stabilize
not sure this would be considered 150w led just cause it's rated for doesn't mean you get 10w out each led. would need to know the exact voltage draw and current draw. voltage x current = actual watt consumption.
+Common Sense since no voltage or current regulation is used here, led were run at 12v, so basicaly it was more than 150w, thats why it was heating so much, without proper current regualtion this cant be used without damaging the leds over time, this was made for fun and not for practical use.
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👍 thanks for the reply and yea I bet those were heating up quickly, but still fun to make stuff.
+Common Sense It is always fun to make things even if the thing you make is not really usefull, just want to know what would happen.
i need some help with a project just got my leds what im trying to build is a light bar for my rc truck 12 leds and want to run it off a batt and the batt is 7.4v its one i use for my rc truck what resister will i need and thanks
Your guys were lucky as those LEDs weren't burnt out. You should use 10W LED drivers to drive these LED individually.
Thats what I wondering.. As I know, LED has a current value to works. So if you give more current for it, they will burn. Perhaps in this example the power can not supply the maximum current because the voltage drop down under the required 12V.. I don't known, but very interesting. I hope someone will explain it. :)
LEDs shall be fed from constant current source, as their internal resistance lowers when they heat up. With stabilised voltage source as PSU from PC you can light them up for a very short while, after some time they would go into Thermal runaway and become useless.
The PSU used here is nice voltage source with enough power to feed the current into paralel strings of those high power(and current hungry) LEDs, but you shall add separate constant current drivers to each led or simply current mirror.
I am currently designing circuits to light up our house, got 100x 10W LEDs just like these, so ... Lets see, maybe there will be some bright moments in my life soon :)
VN nnn
Great bro nice work
+Mohd Habeeb thanks bro
+Mohd Habeeb thanks bro
+Mohd Habeeb thanks bro
+Mohd Habeeb thanks bro
My phone is heating up with that light!
is it still work after 5-6 months?
how long you turn on LED until it get hot?
thanks a lot for this video, I want to make it for still life photography.
+Ragil Setio Pranowo no we dissasembled it, it worked till then, i think this is too bright for photography, i would use maybe 5, actually i would take 2 50w one cool white and one warm white LED 2 step up drivers (3 usd each) and, and i would mount them on the same heatsink close to eachothes, that way i can regulate brightness of both of them individually for best quality lighting
nice idea, I'll try that. thank you.
+Ragil Setio Pranowo no problem :)
Hello!
I have a question that whether it is possible to make 15, 10W LED chip lamps that run off batteries ? If yes, then how powerful batteries would be needed to operate the lamp for at least 5 hours
From a mechanical point of view good work. Electrically the design is in my point of view a fail: You need a current source to drive a LED, not a constant voltage source. In addition to that the LEDs surly don't match, therefore you shouldn't connect them in parallel.
You should not put them in parallel. This circuit will fail and LEDs will blow up spectacularly
LEDs need to be exactly matched for parallel. Which is already not recommended for normal LEDs , with COB AND 15 of them it's just a fire hazard waiting to happen.
Good but where is material list?
Hi, I am using a MEAN WELL LPC-60-1400 and the specs say 3-13 CREE 3V LEDs in series (please ensure LEDs can handle 1400mA) I am using 10X5W Led in series and the LEDS burn out after a few days of usage. I am mounting the LEDS on a piece of extruded aluminum which is about 3 feet long with thermo paste. I also have fans blowing down on it and it feels hot but not extremely hot. These LEDs keep burning out and it's really driving me nuts. I tried to replaced the burned out LEDS but they keep burning out one by one. Is it the quality of the LED or am I doing something wrong? Here are the speces of the LEDS I am using.
1W~5W LED
Emitted Color: White
Color Temperature: 6500K
Brightness: 493LM
DC Forward Voltage (VF): 3.2V-3.6Vdc
DC Forward Current (IF): 350mA~1500mA
LED Driver
MEAN WELL LPC-60-1400 CONSTANT CURRENT LED DRIVER
www.rapidled.com/mean-well-lpc-60-1400-constant-current-driver/
Please help me thanks!
+Ken C have you tried limiting the current to less than specified by manufacturer?
So..
You are really driving all LEDs in parallel and attach them on 12V constant voltage? You don't need such a high voltage for only one LED in series. Get your specsheets ready and calculate the necessary current. Then use the voltage needed by the chip. Thats all
+Sven Kowatz thanks for the advice, please do read rest of the comments thank you for watching
Sir if I make same 150w light and use it with 56w 11.1v and 4.8ah battery how much hours do u think this light will work for? Sir please help ur help......!!!
I have a bit question, if I have 40 of LED Chip 10w. Can I use the same specifications of power supply that you are using?
I have a question. when you were soldering the chips together, did you first orient them connecting positive with negative? or did you solder all positives together and then all negatives together?
.
+Tom Rodbend They are connected in parallel, all 15 positives connected together, and all negatives together, thats the only way this an work on a 12v pover supply without voltage boost
+Tom Rodbend check out my latest video where i connect the leds in series and power them with a boost converter and some rechargable batteries
Awesome. So as long as Ihave a power supply with 12VDC and be able to supply enough Amps then my wattage doesn't matter eh? I'm working on a garden greenhouse system. Dud you find that the heatsink u used was enough or did you get any burnouts?
+Tom Rodbend no, this was made for fun, and is a wrong way of powering leds, if you have enough power on your powersupply use it with a boost converter, they are not expensive and will save you from burning those leds, you can regulate voltage and current going through them, connecting them directly to a 12v power supply will kill them eventually, you should connect them in a combinaton of series and parallel and use a boost converter
I will definitely bug you a bit about this if thats ok. I can't seem to find good info on connecting high power LEDs together. Thumbs up on the video!
Nice project. But without 3 or 5 funs this canot last more than 20minutes , the diodes will meld down. Also PC powewr supply not suitable for this it can last about 5 months then must be replaced with special LEd power supply also with good fun.
Damn, where did you get that heat sink from?
What are the strips you soldered to the leds called? Where can you buy them?
No need to buy anything special for those connections, a length of standard, solid 14ga. household electric wire with the insulation stripped off would work fine. Since it would sink away heat faster you would need a little higher wattage soldering iron, but a 30W iron with a good/clean/stout tip could solder that easily if using standard 63/37 or 60/40 solder instead of higher temperature lead free solder... maybe even then.
You don't even need to buy such electrical wire, just drive by a new home or other building construction right after the electrician has wired it (same day for best odds) and there will be scraps of wire left behind in the trash, or ask your neighbors as lots of people have spare mains AC wiring lying about.
Schön hell.. aber so wie du es gemacht hast bekomme ich echt die Motten bei..... Was ist mit Strombegrenzung... ei sollte jede LED eine eigene haben.. sonst kann es passieren beim Nachregeln des SNT das die Led´s dir alle flöten gehen.und dann diese Art Stromschiene.... und dann zum Schluss die adern so.... So sicherheitsmässig sehe ich keine Probleme. Aber schön ist anders :x
It will need a heat sink fan if run more than briefly. It may have too much thermal compound - it normally should be a very thin film. You need more practice tapping ...
when using the power supply to power it i want to do a similar project how did you junction off the end to connect it to the power supply
29 Phillips head screws and one SLOTTED PANHEAD SCREW in the middle. Don't you and my OCD ever want me to sleep again??
Not fair. You have 4 hands.
'
LED lights are always tooo hot...
good idea to use a aluminum heatsink
bestamerica except he taped part of the fins. The tape on those walls will effectively minimize the surface area exposed to the air. Reducing the convective rating of the heat sink.
HELLO ME WISH I DID HELP ME EAST OR SIMILAR BUT I WISH BAR CONNECTING TO MY AUTO 12V LED NO BUT SOME LIGHT AND OTHERS HAVE TO USE ANY FLASHING RELAY DRIVER OR RESISTANCE THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
+Alex Garcia.r1 sorry, i dont understand
good job
+ghaalib Allaith thanks :)
Please answer me! What about the Current regulation???? Each led works with 900ma. The power supply is 60a. Don't you need a device that controls the current??? On the contrary, will burn and the lifetime led is drastically reduced. What kind of device can use to drive all 15 leds safely????
+Sena Fernandes there are some current resistors on the board already, and they are connected in series with the leds, there are 4 leds in series with a resistor, you dont need any device
Thanks for your answer but I sometimes I complain about some video because they normally are produced without details and video producers forget that most of the viewers are looking for answers and the maximum details possible. If u are using some resistors each 4 leds according to your affirmation I don't see been showing on you video and if u use the resistor model for this use? If u think necessary make another video with more detail on the contrary just explain. Thanks an I'm sorry if I was ignorant .....
+Sena Fernandes no its okay to ask questions and im glad to answer them, i didnt put any resistor that is why you didnt see me soldeting them, what i meant is that there are resistors already on the board, the original leds use them, so no need to add any, i just changed the original leds with those aftermarket ones, no need for any more resistors since they are already on the board
+Sena Fernandes no its okay to ask questions and im glad to answer them, i didnt put any resistor that is why you didnt see me soldeting them, what i meant is that there are resistors already on the board, the original leds use them, so no need to add any, i just changed the original leds with those aftermarket ones, no need for any more resistors since they are already on the board
Ok thanks but remember that normally the leds comes without resistors so you could make some commentary on top of this subject quite important. Best regards.....
What size power supply do i need to connect 3x 10w leds directly to the power supply
Niiiicccceee wow 😊!!!
Hey can we keep this led on for 12-13 hours with heat sink and what about adaptor
No habrá otra forma de instalarle los ventiladores mas peques???, ese aparato en mi caso debe salir super costoso
Nice!
Why u treaded the holes if used autotreading screws? :-)
Federico Allegretti he tapped the holes. Threading is when a die is used to cut or form the male portion, and tapping is when a tap is used to for the female portion. Either way, he's not using self tapping screws.
Stetson Chriswell Rofl!!!
0:14 / 0:15
NEVER touch the yellow part of such a LED!!! It's important!
The LED chips are embedded directly in it. The thin wires may break or bend and cause shorts and the fat on the skin will cause permanent damage.
You guys record that first sound track yourselves ? can i get a copy.
Lmao wtf dude
Nice project. But can it get powered by a battery?
+Arch Man it could, you would need some current regulators, i could build far more efficient ones with 3watt star leds
with a runtime of 10 seconds before self destruction no doubt. unless you have some water cooling that thing will grenade itself
Молодцы, ребята!
those are 12v 700mA to max 1Amp led modules. you connect them in parallel they consume 15Amps total. how do you drop the current?