Excellent method. I had to use m12 bolts with an 18mm head. I could not get the 16mm head bolts to hold, even with the gouge cut in them. I removed my balancer with the engine in the car and radiator out. I had to file the slots a bit on the normal harmonic balancer puller so the 12mm bolts would go through. I did not have to put slots in the bolts. The bigger heads worked a treat, and the old balancer was off in no time. Great help.
Aussie ingenuity at it's best. Thanks for the vid. I can understand the cost benefit analysis of a workshop using the special tool to do this job, however for the home mechanic there's a decision to be made as to the length of time it takes to remove the radiator v the cost of the tool to do the job once. Ford should and could have put removal bolt holes in the system as well, but at extra cost... Pity it's not like in the States where you can hire these tools... There's one guy in VIC with one on GT : $50 hire fee with $200 deposit. Also the tool is just like the one for the Chev LS, so it's not just Ford. One question: how many of you guys have a leaking Front Main Seal? I've googled around and looked at the forums but I can't see many issues arising?
I have 3 AU's in my care at the moment. 2 of the 3 had leaking front seals. One of the AU's (my mum's car with only 120k on the clock) has an idle stumbling issue which after hours of investigating found it was caused by leaking oil from the front crank seal onto the crank position sensor. I only worked this out after changing idle control valve, spark plugs and leads ofcourse.😂
The reason they don’t put holes in there is to keep people out of there that don’t know what they’re doing. That’s the main reason that’s why they quit putting dip sticks in motors they have no dip sticks whatsoever they have scanners you have to get the motor tranny at a certain temperature before you could check the levels they have universal dip sticks they have transmissions with no filters, the only way to replace it is terret down and rebuild it in the filter is the last thing you replace people don’t know how to add the correct fluid in the right area. They add motor oil with brake fluid transmission fluid with your radiators people just don’t know how to use common sense anymore and think and read, that’s why technicians get vehicles did the braking system have been contaminated cooling systems been contaminated because simple fact of the drivers air now it’s going to cost you thousands because you didn’t know what you were doing. You should’ve took it to somebody that knew knew the system very well a technician dealership don’t listen to Joe blow or shade tree Mike vehicles have changed drastically. There is a reason why they don’t have Phil caps dip sticks in vehicles anymore or you have to have pumps to fill transmissions to fill motors evacuated systems to take your engine oil out.
You can’t tell what’s wrong with that balancer it has a small cut in the metal. Basically you just take a little emery cloth and buff it out and take your seal. Take the spring out and tighten it up a little bit. Yes, you can tighten your seal up the spring tension. The only way you’ll know is if you do it every single day I’m not going to explain in a detail how it’s done or where it’s at or why because it seems like you’re asking a question that you don’t even know by looking at the harmonic balancer, and this guy thinks you have to replace it every single time no little emery cloth will straighten the problem out or sandpaper
@@ozgarage956 Hey mate it's all goods I got it in the first try, I just used some nice thick m12s got right up into it perfectly the only problem is I needed to grind out a bit of the puller part where the bolts go through, worked a treat though thanks so much mate this is what was holding me back from finally being able to strip down my motor for the build, you're a legend saving me 200
A lot of times, the tools don’t work, and you have to re-manufacture and use common sense. I’ve seen tools that will not work regardless, and you have to re-manufacture the tools in my toolbox I have designed wrenches polars that’s been remanufactured for pacific jobs when I can make a little a adjustment to the tool were I don’t have to pull the radiator just to get harmonica balancer off I’ll do it that saves several hours or if you have to alter the tool, they use it on that vehicle you don’t have to go get a special tool, but the tool will still work on other vehicles that one little altercation doesn’t matter people have to use common sense and think an engineer
Works a treat thanks mate
Excellent method. I had to use m12 bolts with an 18mm head. I could not get the 16mm head bolts to hold, even with the gouge cut in them. I removed my balancer with the engine in the car and radiator out. I had to file the slots a bit on the normal harmonic balancer puller so the 12mm bolts would go through. I did not have to put slots in the bolts. The bigger heads worked a treat, and the old balancer was off in no time. Great help.
Aussie ingenuity at it's best. Thanks for the vid.
I can understand the cost benefit analysis of a workshop using the special tool to do this job, however for the home mechanic there's a decision to be made as to the length of time it takes to remove the radiator v the cost of the tool to do the job once.
Ford should and could have put removal bolt holes in the system as well, but at extra cost...
Pity it's not like in the States where you can hire these tools...
There's one guy in VIC with one on GT : $50 hire fee with $200 deposit.
Also the tool is just like the one for the Chev LS, so it's not just Ford.
One question: how many of you guys have a leaking Front Main Seal? I've googled around and looked at the forums but I can't see many issues arising?
I have 3 AU's in my care at the moment.
2 of the 3 had leaking front seals.
One of the AU's (my mum's car with only 120k on the clock) has an idle stumbling issue which after hours of investigating found it was caused by leaking oil from the front crank seal onto the crank position sensor.
I only worked this out after changing idle control valve, spark plugs and leads ofcourse.😂
The reason they don’t put holes in there is to keep people out of there that don’t know what they’re doing. That’s the main reason that’s why they quit putting dip sticks in motors they have no dip sticks whatsoever they have scanners you have to get the motor tranny at a certain temperature before you could check the levels they have universal dip sticks they have transmissions with no filters, the only way to replace it is terret down and rebuild it in the filter is the last thing you replace people don’t know how to add the correct fluid in the right area. They add motor oil with brake fluid transmission fluid with your radiators people just don’t know how to use common sense anymore and think and read, that’s why technicians get vehicles did the braking system have been contaminated cooling systems been contaminated because simple fact of the drivers air now it’s going to cost you thousands because you didn’t know what you were doing. You should’ve took it to somebody that knew knew the system very well a technician dealership don’t listen to Joe blow or shade tree Mike vehicles have changed drastically. There is a reason why they don’t have Phil caps dip sticks in vehicles anymore or you have to have pumps to fill transmissions to fill motors evacuated systems to take your engine oil out.
I'd rather the time saving using the tool .but up to the individual.
Very true, especially if you are going to be doing many falcon balancers.
Just a very expensive initial outlay i guess
Too pricey for me anyway.
What was wrong with your balancer?
Nothing.
Just thought while the engine was out i'd replace the front crank seal and rear main.
The balancer was still perfecvtly intact.
You can’t tell what’s wrong with that balancer it has a small cut in the metal. Basically you just take a little emery cloth and buff it out and take your seal. Take the spring out and tighten it up a little bit. Yes, you can tighten your seal up the spring tension. The only way you’ll know is if you do it every single day I’m not going to explain in a detail how it’s done or where it’s at or why because it seems like you’re asking a question that you don’t even know by looking at the harmonic balancer, and this guy thinks you have to replace it every single time no little emery cloth will straighten the problem out or sandpaper
Great video
Did you take out crank bolt or did you leave it in when you position your tool
Thanks
With crank bolt out. The screw part of the puller tool has a dome which fits into the the space where the crank bolt sits.
@@ozgarage956 thanks
@@ozgarage956 Hey mate have you possibly gotten the exactly bolt specs by now?
@@dannypetrovski6816 Bolt thread specs or length aren't important, main thing is the bolt head locks under balancer.
@@ozgarage956 Hey mate it's all goods I got it in the first try, I just used some nice thick m12s got right up into it perfectly the only problem is I needed to grind out a bit of the puller part where the bolts go through, worked a treat though thanks so much mate this is what was holding me back from finally being able to strip down my motor for the build, you're a legend saving me 200
A lot of times, the tools don’t work, and you have to re-manufacture and use common sense. I’ve seen tools that will not work regardless, and you have to re-manufacture the tools in my toolbox I have designed wrenches polars that’s been remanufactured for pacific jobs when I can make a little a adjustment to the tool were I don’t have to pull the radiator just to get harmonica balancer off I’ll do it that saves several hours or if you have to alter the tool, they use it on that vehicle you don’t have to go get a special tool, but the tool will still work on other vehicles that one little altercation doesn’t matter people have to use common sense and think an engineer
Wat are you selling your au ticford for
want to buy my mates bf xr8
@@ozgarage956 na mate its alright