5 Ways How to Remove a Stuck Brake Drum
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- Опубликовано: 22 июл 2024
- Video tutorial on the five different ways to remove a stuck drum on a brake assembly. Depending on how the drum is stuck will affect which method is needed to remove the drum. You should get able to get an idea of how the drum is stuck by trying to move it. Either by rotating or trying to pull it from the hub. If you are able to rotate the hub, then the pads aren’t against or stuck to the braking surface. Therefore it can be rusted to the hub or has a lip on the backside which is catching up on the pads. As long as you’re able to pull the drum back slightly from the hub, then you are only dealing with a lip issue on the inside of the drum. Now on the other hand, if you cannot rotate the drum, then the pads are engaged either by rust, stuck wheel cylinder, or stuck parking brake.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-puller
-bolts
-ball peen hammer
-safety glasses
-standard screwdriver
-drill with drill bits
-angle grinder
-bolt cutters
-propane or acetylene torch set
Procedure:
Method #1
-gain access to the rear of the drum assembly
-look for an inspection while which is closed up with a rubber grommet
-remove the rubber grommet which will give us access to adjust the automatic adjuster
-two screwdrivers are needed, insert the first screwdriver into the hole, push back the lock
-take the standard screwdriver and rotate the star wheel
-then remove the drum
Method #2
-using a ball peen hammer, hit the drum between the wheel studs where the hub face is located
-go around the perimeter between each of the studs, being careful not to hit any of the studs as you can damage the threads
-if you are worried about accidentally hitting the wheel studs, either install the lug nuts or place a rubber hose over top of the studs
-heat can be applied to the mounting surface either using a propane or acetylene torch set
-NEVER hit outside of the hub area, on the outer edge where the cooling fines are, or on the back edge of the drum
-doing so will greatly risk the chance of damaging the drum’s casting, either resulting in a crack or chip making the drum unsafe to use
-then remove the drum
Method #3
-use a puller to remove the drum
-center of the hub should have a depressed area where the puller’s center bolt can be places
-then clip the jaws on the outer edge of the drum and tighten the center bolt until the drum breaks free
Method #4
-to determine if it is stuck, operate the lever inside the vehicle and you should feel loose travel before tension is applied
-another reason for that loose travel is if your parking brake is out of adjustment
-the cable will need to be replace even if you are able to get it loose as it can occur again
-first try giggling the cable, adjusting it, and if that fails, then cut it directly behind the drum brake assembly as close as possible
-the parking brake lever inside the drum assembly will release and allow the shoes to retract
Method #5
-if all else fails and you are unable to disengage the shoes from the drum, then complete disassembly is required
- start by clipping the hold down pins on the backside
-once done, this will allow you to fold the shoes within the drum
-try pulling back by hand or with the assistance of a puller
-if that fails, then remove the wheel cylinder where the fasteners can be access from the backside of the backing plate
-along with that, disconnect the brake line as we do not want to have any added stress on it
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© 4DIYers 2013
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You saved my ass. I have not seen anybody else show exactly how to adjust the star, nor how much it needed adjusting. Many thanks.
Glad to help out!
Why there always a few unlikes on videos just trying to help people? He didn't have to make this video, it was to help others....duhh
Thank you for the feedback :) You'd be amazed at some of the ignorant comments I get, some people have absolutely no respect or appreciation for free information.
Wish I had found this video earlier! It's by far the best one I've found. Thank you!
A very nice demonstration of various techniques. Time for me to try a couple of these tactics.
Thank you! Definitely keep me posted on how it works out.
Very well done. I sent this to my son who is trying to remove drums from a car sitting for thirty-years, a challenge without his dad.... GREAT VIDEO.
Thank you and glad to help out :) What kind of car???
Did you send me TWO e-mails at 3-o'clock this morning????
The car is a '56 Chevy 210 and hasn't been driven in thirty-years! GREAT VIDEO.
Lol, yeah I was just finishing up some stuff. Beautiful car, I've always had a soft spot for the Nomads. Thank you :)
Outstanding video and very well done. Super helpful thank you.
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words!
This was so helpful, thank you!
this is a good and informational video, thank you.
Glad to help out and thank you for the feedback :)
Mine was rusted to the hub in the center. I ended up placing a chunk of 2x4 across the studs, then used 4 F-clamps to pull it off. Saved me a bunch of time having to drive to the auto parts store and rent a puller.
Awesome tip, thank you for sharing!
Were you able to re-use everything after this procedure with no shuddering or vibration?
Got a video or pics of this?
A trick I used today on a 75 blazer sitting in a feild on a farm since 2001 . I put a floor jack under the drums edge with the lip of the jack saddle just behind the drum. Floor jacks lift up and slightly backwards.
Then cut the nails with a chisel and hammer and unbolted the brake line and wheel cylinder bolts.
Then jacked it up a little more while beating the bolt circle with what I call a housewife hammer. Presto .
Don't forget your Jack stands as the truck will drop a little when it breaks Free. Great video bud. Probably the best on the subject I've seen 👌
I tried the jack and chain method and ruined a scissor jack and couldn't find my bottle jack so I made do.
Excellent tips, thank you for sharing!
I found that 35lbs of tnt or 200oz of nitro glycerin works well but if that fails the 350lbs of terinite does the trick every time.
Be sure to wear safety goggles if you use this method.
thank you, thank you, very informative and helpful.
No problem, happy to help :)
Probably the best video on the subject. I'm in the process of removing my rear rotors on my 02 Tahoe and i still can't get them to come off. I'm not dealing with drum breaks but similar. My E brake pads are stuck inside my rotor.
I ended up getting them off. Your video made that happen.
This video explains how to lose the self-adjusting star wheel. I think this is a very important step in the drum removal operation if you are dealing with wear and stuck drums. The drum wear is creating a leap on the interior, backside, which is gonna work against the brake pads when you try to remove it. losing the star wheel is contracting the pads releasing the drum. Thank you for this great video.
I have a drum with a lip on the back would method 3# be the fastest?
Your video is the most informative! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Where did you find a puller like this and this size? I've tried renting from auto parts stores but they don't have one big enough for my 14" drum. Checked harbor freight as well to no avail
If you have the first problem can you use a hub puller instead of spinning lock wheel with out damaging something ?
You just saved me a big headache, thank you..
No problem, happy to help :)
I have drums that are stuck fast on a classic auto. 5 lb hammer and propane did nothing. I got a three arm drum puller from Harbor Freight. It started ok but now the whole drum spins when I tighten the center bolt. I put the jack under it but that didn't work. Had the gf apply brakes but the brake cylinders are shot. Any more ideas? I'm ready for the tnt and nitro described below.
Nice job 4D. Very informative. Having problems with my rear drums on my 2004 honda accord. Replaced the shoes and now I cant put the drum back on. I took one side off at a time to use as reference. Im at a loss. Have any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
Thank you! Close up the automatic adjuster and you'll be able to get the drum back on.
With the drum not spin at all, do you think bleed the bleeder valve will help? I tried hammer the drum but no luck.
Thanks for this man, helped me big time
No problem, happy I could help!
Is it like that for every make and model that each wheel turns different direction than the other? I can’t get my drum off because it’s stuck on the lip and I keep turning the adjuster the same way I turned for my other wheel to get off.
Awesome video. I have a 1961 Dodge Lancer that sat in a field in North Wa. for over ten years and the drums are stuck. I will try these tips tomorrow!
Cool car, had no idea that model existed. Thank you!
Great video!
Thank you!
Do you have a link to buy that puller?
Is this design similar or the same as s tandem axle trailers design standard goose neck trailer
Thank you very much. This was very helpful.
You're welcome!
Well Done !
Thank you!
I just removed both my rear brake drums for the first time ever! My secret. I used my $200 rubber sledge hammer from "Mac's Hardware." It is a 12 lb. Deadblow hammer that is 36" long. The drum had rust welded itself to the shaft that centers your wheel on the hub. 5 good whacks all over and it came right off!
Where to get that two jaw puller advanced rent a tool?
Best video I’ve found yet
Thank you :)
That 2-screwdriver method is a lifesaver! Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
great video, good useful information
Thank you!
Finally got the drum off, I asked the no it all wife off the phone and we pryed it off together, it really helped her ego. Now she's a genius.
Como se llama ese extractor para buscarlo amig
YES! thank you!!
ive been trying to yank this blasted drum off of my classic Bronc for a while now!
You're welcome! Hopefully you got it off successfully.
i'll let you know the results when i can go work on it
Lovley. Thank you so much!
Thank you!
VERY GOOD video. My 93 GMC has an access hole to the side (never seen this before) - wouldn't think the adjuster is on the side, but I'll pull the plug to see - there's no adjuster access hole at the bottom. I can tell the shoes are hanging up on a ridge on drum. Never heard of the trick to dissemble (clipping pins, removing wheel cylinder bolts), but now I know how to do it. THANK YOU.
Thank you so much and happy I could help!
@@4DIYers Got it just by loosening the wheel cylinder. Great to see no ridge on drum and almost new shoes, but springs rusty (had some new pins). Ordered spring kit.. now just need to get air out of RWAL system (will try to disassemble iso/dump valve). The plugs on my backing plate (93 GMC Sierra 10" drums) are for lining inspection.. star wheel can't be adjusted.
Helpful thank you
5th method: 1) SEE IF there is play on the lever (play means stuck possibly), 2) jiggle the cable. 3) adjust? how? Is there a mid point in the cable from the driver's seat to the rear brake where the wire is joined by some kind of bridle to 2 other wires which go to left & right rear brake? Can't it be detached at that mid point?
Your the goat thank you for the help
Thank you and you’re very welcome!
1st method turn the star wheel. 1) try pushing the star wheel in both directions; the one it will move in is opposite to the way to turn it too loose the shoe. 2) look for a lock that loosens the star wheel - a lock??? so you "push back the lock" -- then you have to keep it pushed back? IT is on a spring>?
Easy solution (but most people will still argue, they prefer brutal methods later: hammer, puller, torch etc.).
1. Paint the hub with zinc (or aluminium-zinc) spray. No rust.
2. Chamfer (ideally on a lathe) the drum, so the lip does not form.
my car is 99 hyundai elantra station wagon an I'm having problem with getting or pulling hub off drum brakes on mine) I've tried tapping round on front and side of drum n yes tries pulling it loose doesn't seem to want turn loose emergency brake the wheel is turning freely have even tried using pry bar or flat head screwdriver
With wheel on, back off lug nuts, get wheel spinning and slam on brakes. This will break rust between hub and drum. May need to back off brake shoes. Works every time.
Good idea, thank you for sharing! I actually did this years ago to break a rust on wheel from the hub. Was 2hrs away from home, minimal tools, and the tire rubber separated.
Does this work for drums that have been rusted to the hub for I think 19 year now? there is no rubber grommet on the back, no access holes, not goddamn screw hole thing for a bolt in the front, like, this damn this could hold together a fucking tractor trailer to a fucking penny at a rest stop and nothing I do will make this thing come off.
Wheel is locked and can't get it spinning, so no that doesn't work.
Good video. New subscriber here. I am restoring a 1954 Fargo 1/2 ton. My front right break is stuck on. I can turn the wheel if I use a bar between the studs, but it is hard. I can't figure out how to back the brakes off. There is no adjustment window on the back of the plate. Any ideas how to back the brakes off?? Thanks
Excellent to hear and thank you for the support! Sounds like a cool project, unfortunately I haven't worked on anything from that era. However after a little searching, they appear to use a cam adjustment instead of an automatic adjuster such as what is shown in the video. Here's the adjustment procedure www.ply33.com/Repair/brakes and then a little info for front and rear drum brakes for Fargos p15-d24.com/topic/35746-drum-brakes/
Thanks for your help. After messing with the adjustment bolts and a small pry bar I got the brakes freed up enough to get the truck to roll.
Car Guy says to screw 8 bolt to thread through hole in face, but like here no holes in front face. Thanks
Exelente amigo....
Thank you!
Thanks to for mentioning something about the e-brake, which of course I have on for safety, my hours of screaming and yelling and prying on this fucking thing are finally over, I put some bricks in front of the tire, turned off the e-brake and it fucking came right off...
A wood block tapped in between outside edge of drum (rear of drum) and the leaf spring lower plate or other part on rear end that is solid. Apply some heat on drum around axle flange...POP! Clean up that inside bore of drum with a file to remove any corrosion, clean up end of axle flange. Apply some anti seize to prevent is getting frozen on again (very light coat!)
I have a stuck adjuster and I cut the pins. Brakes shoes are stuck out so no spin. I disconnected the wheel cylinder and still no luck. I just bought a puller and it’s too thick to fit in the crack around the drum. I’m feeling real defeated right now. Anyone got any tips?
My Man!
Great video, new subscriber!!
Awesome, thank you for the support!
Educational..
Thank you!
Outrageous that most cars need this kind of struggle! Delighted to find on my toyota a threaded hole in the drum, between the studs. You just borrow a bolt from under the hood, and drive it in. It forces the drum off the spindle. Cheap and beautiful solution!
Reply
I usually try to avoid drums, never been a huge fan of them lol. With age, you normally have to worry about these problems. Rust and dirt can cause these issues.
That's when your screws strip out.
You were delighted to watch the mechanic do the work. You were also delighted to shine his belt buckle, lucky you got a big forehead! The...
Oh ya a I forgot about that port. why I didn't see it? because I didn't look
I tried the pounding of the hammer but it would not budge. Then a thought occurred to me, what if I pounded on the outside of the drum from the engine side? I had two hammers, one with the ax blade on it. So I rested that on the top of the drum but on top of the brake flash plate. Then I gently used a second hammer to pound on the first one towards me. Very limited space so you can not swing to hard. It worked though. It took about 7 of 8 hits before I noticed the drum moving. I also moved/turned the drum around so I would not lock up the drum going sideways. Good luck and I hope this hint helps someone else.
what if your back plate doesn't have a hole to the adjuster
What type of vehicle?
Trying to disengage the star lever and move the star wheel at the same time is a bitch. Worked for 90 min yesterday and no luck. My disc drums have about a 3/4" lip on the backing plate so usimg a drum puller does not see possible in getting on
Thank god we have disc brakes, by far this is the most hated task as a mechanic to perform, i rather do an engine or transmision rebuild rsther than dealing with old drum brakes
Haha, I know the feeling. Disc brakes only have a few bolts where a drum brake assembly has springs and levers you need to fight with. Literally takes double the time for a replacement.
i can become a master mechanic just by watching youtube videos.
You'd be surprised how many professionals in the field use RUclips videos to assist in repairs.
i love rust. tried to inspect my drums because i heard grinding. jackpoints collapsed from rust while jacking up the car. couldnt check my drums because the covers are rusted onto the hubs
That sucks, sorry to hear. Rust is definitely not fun to deal with.
thanks
Glad to help out :)
Have no access to star wheel so #5 is wat I had to use
My brake pedal is stuck even if i turn on my car and my emergency brake is only working on one side , in other words my rear left tire is locked up .. i might try the first ,4 ,5 method
Sounds like your cable is seized.
Some of them can be a real pain that's for sure.
Cool voice. Jimmy Stewart
Thanks!
I have rusty brakes so i used the puller and i worked for me.. so if anybody else wants to remove drum brakes. This is the easier way.. buy a 8" jaw puller if u have a truck
Instead of buying a puller, some car parts stores have a tool loaner program. I know Auto Zone and O'Reilly Auto Parts both loan tools.
You just put down a deposit, borrow the tool, get your job done, return the tool and the nice clerk will refund your deposit.
I had a REALLY stuck crank on my old Schwinn. I borrowed a 3 jaw puller from O'Reilly. It didn't work. I borrowed a ball joint separator, stuck it behind the crank and pounded on it with a dead blow hammer. That worked! The crank popped right off!
Where talking cars here not 1st grade humor. Who's got time for bikes, where too busy working on the cars.
5 ? I never saw one
Oxygen propane torch heated and tapped with a hammer sorted mine
God I hate drum brakes.
My friend has a broken lug nut stud inside, I don't even really know where to start
Full blown seized 60 f100 front driver side. Might be torch time...
Not crying yet..
Just might have to disassemble it from back to front it appears.
Sigh
I think anyone who can operate the adjuster with two screw drivers {blind[ probably has as much experience as you and knows how to get a stuck drum off. otherwise good video.
Agreed and thank you. Don't forget to subscribe!
If they had that much experience they would not be watching this video. Not having done this, it was extremely helpful.
that's good for cars but I have a trailer drum were the hub is locked up and can't remove them
Should be a similar process, regardless if it's magnetic or hydraulic.
yes and no because I didn't know you had to undo the center peace first that was what held it all together and that was my first time working on a trailer but keep up the good work I've got alot of help from your videos their really easy to under stand when you don't know the terminology
Thank you for the feedback, I really appreciate it :)
Horizontal 12 ton jack plus chains/hooks.... works everytime..... stuck pads... whatever lol
Wear eye protection,, yup I hate drum brakes too, almost took my eye out cause the pliers slipped!
Great tip! I've had those springs shoot off in one direction too lol.
Pliers? I loop half a meter of nylon chord. Easiest way to pull those springs.
Better yet, just acquire a vehicle that consists of but ALL disc brakes. Drum brakes, when first come out, we're good. But Disc Brakes are way better.
STFU!
who cares for a drum if its really stuck use the torch and split that thing in half.
is that the inside of a 540i .. I see it has a getrag 6 speed.
Lol, yeah I'm definitely not a fan of drum brakes. And yep, it's my old 97 540i/6 sport.
If ur replacing the shoes and drums, spray away.