Why Loggers Run Upside Down Chainsaw Bars
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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i dont know if you are stil looking for good quality precision files but i know some good ones
that is a great idea about switching the arm to last longer but just wondering have you used dewalt 20or40 volt chainsaw
NIteIze makes amazing products!
wranglerstar, i have a husq 261 saw. the piston is broken and seized in the cylinder not allowing access to the wristpin. as i am rebuilding the saw with a new cylinder and piston should i just cut the old cylinder in half to remove it from around the piston allowing me to get to the wristpin? the saw is torn all the way down. any thoughts besides junk it. it has alot of sentimental value and i would really like to continue with my rebuild.
Don't you double the time till you need a new bar by flipping it? Hence it would be 100% more lifetime not 50% more like you said.
For anyone who wants to know how to tune your Chainsaw bar, there is some very simple yet very important things you need to do,, and you will get ten times the life out of a bar than had you not done this maintenance..
First off, If you are cutting clean wood for either firewood of sawlogs, you won't be sharpening your chain very often..
In that case your bar will end up with a burr where the chain rides in the rail, "That needs to be filed flat"..
When you take your bar off to do this maintenance you will see that if you use your thumb nail and drag it where the chain runs in the rail, but on the flat of the bar, there will be a burr, Use you flat file,,The same file for filing your rakers and remove the burr..
Secondly buy the tool for putting the right gap back in the rail the chain rides in...
It's a small tool that closes the gap of the rail to the correct size that wears and opens from use.
These are just little things us loggers do that most people never learn..
We get a ton of use out of a bar that cuts tens of thousands of board feet of timber in a season..
After ever SECOND sharpening use the flat file and file the raker with one stroke the length of the file, and NO MORE.. This will bring the raker down proportionally with the tooth.. When sharpening a saw with a standard round file, if you give one tooth three strokes, you give them all three strokes..
It should never take more than that is you are doing the maintenance to keep the saw cutting properly..
NEVER HIT THE DIRT.. If you hit the dirt with your chain, it will need to be sharpened right away, DON'T keep cutting.
If your saw is cutting correctly it will be making wood chips, not sawdust..
If it's not putting out chips, then it's dull and needs to be sharpened...
Only flip the bar if there is a burr, file the burr off by placing the file on the flat of the bar and file it smooth, then flip the bar are remount it..
Keep the right gap in the chain rail.
File the rakers every second chain sharpening with one stroke of the raker file.
Use a round file with file guide that has the angle of the tooth inscribed on the file guide.
Keep the chain sharp.
The correct tension is when you can pull up on the chain with moderate pressure and it not lift out of the rail the chain rides in.
Be safe, A Sharp Chain is a safe chain, but a deadly chain if you are not extremely careful.
Loggers Know That It's an Odds Game.. Every Day They Enter The Bush To Harvest Timber There Odds of Getting Hurt Increase.
Don't Push Your Luck Or The Odds Are Not Going to be In Your Favour.
and God Bless One and All,, Be safe out there,, and smart...
Although I've been flipping my bars for 45 years to get a little more life out of them it never occurred to me to do it every time I sharpen. I've been waiting until the bar is mostly trashed before flipping. Just goes to show that we can learn something new every day. Now at my age the trick is to remember this :)
I don't have much experience sharpening chainsaw chains, but my first thought when you mentioned the bars wearing out much faster when filing the teeth on the saw was metal shavings from the tooth filing getting into the chain and down into the bar where it would stick due to the bar oil, essentially becoming an abrasive. I could be wrong, but it may be a factor.
Either way, love your videos!
Good video! We get customers who have cut wood for YEARS who don't know this.
Another tip: if your saw will not cut straight, 1) be sure the chain is sharpened properly and the depth guides filed properly. If it still wont cut straight and the bar isn't bent 2) We sand off the burrs that inevitably gather on the edge of the rails where the chain rides and run the bar down a disc sander thats perfectly perpendicular to the rails of the bar. After the 1st pass you can see where any low spots are or see that one side is lower than the other. This makes the chain sit on the bar at an angle. Keep running it down the disc sander until both rails are shiny and you see no low spots. Repeat for the other side, then blow out/clean the bar from any sander material/metal grit. This dramatically improves how straight it will cut.
I did this for my dads 20 y/o Stihl 044 bar on a surface grinder wheel, he'd previously draw filed it by hand with good success. The groove was so heavily worn the drive lugs would have bottomed out in the groove if i'd cleaned up the faces entirely! It got him through the weekend though and I ordered him a new bar & chain.
That saw has cut at least 5 cord of wood every year of it's life since he's had it, and he bought it seized of a forestry worker. Gave it a hone and a piston, stihl going strong!
Patrick Rebecca Doohan v
That's called dressing the bar, which should be done EVERY time you have the chain and bar off the saw. Usually daily in a commercial environment. Personally I use a flat file and oil stone. Normally get 2 1/2 to 3 years out of 24" and 28" bars.
And if it _still_ won't cut straight, you may need to replace your sprocket. A badly worn sprocket wreaks havoc on how the chain tracks, and it will also shorten the life of your bar.
@@chriswillmott462 you have the bar and chain off and dreess the bar daily??
Thanks for the great tips. Just bought my first chain saw and has made my life a lot easier and for me safer.
I was taught another way to make sure your bar is getting oil is to periodically rev your saw, and check to see that it's flinging oil on a dry surface. The oil port can get plugged in between sharpening. When I was a young man, I had asked my new neighbor, who became my mentor, If I could borrow his chain saw. He told me that he did not loan out his wife or his chain saw. I purchased my own, and he taught me how to use it. I recently got my Stihl pro 026 out of storage. I had not used it in over 16 years. I thought for sure it would need a carburetor overhaul. Filled it up with fresh gas, and it started up with a few pulls. And it ran good as new. You can also use a chain saw bar dresser and file to extend the life of the bar.
Even though I am not a frequent user of a chain saw, I have been around them and used them for 50 years. I never knew anything about flipping the bar..... Thanks Cody....
Mike Robbins me too!
Hope you kept all those old bars 😆
Been using saws for 50 years and never knew about inverting a bar??? Just one thing to say. DUMBASS!!!!
Chris Willmott Thank you very much Chris. I’m quite sure that you know everything about everything and that qualifies you to call other people dumb.
WineScrounger Well, its like I said, I’m not a frequent user. Just cut a small tree every now and then or buck up one. I’ve had my Stihl saw for 20 yrs and never bought a bar.
I prolong the cutting edge by running my chain backwards.
I dont thin...nevermind
You also save the lives of many trees using this practice.
LOL
👍Burns a lot more gas though 🤣
I run mine backwards too! because it works just as good as forewards.
Knowledge doesn't become wisdom until it is passed on. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Great video!
Good tip on measuring the wear on the bar. Same goes for keeping the oiling system clean and efficient. Thanks!
I don't know why I watched this video.
I don't even own a chainsaw.
...just no purpose, as with your life's endeavor I would say.
I was just thinking the same.
Go and buy one
I don't know why either cos i know the answer
S'ok, there are no trees in space.
Good tip about cleaning out the bar after filing.
I do that using compressed air, as well as cleaning out the chain after filing.
So far have been unable to kill a bar. and I rarely even flip them..
A couple things, I worked in a saw shop and learned from the best. A simple one is to run a putty knife down between the rails and get the junk out. That is the path the oil moves in, sawdust blocks that movement.
Just because the chain wobbles doesn't mean you through the bar away, it needs dressed. Dressing takes off the top edges, (removes the top of the V taking a lot of the movement out). It is done with a special grinder, with a flat place to rest the Bar at a right angle. If you have any saw shops in your area, call and ask if they "dress bars", it is an art. I am sure cost may vary, but for most likely under $20, it is well worth it to extend the life of an expensive Bar. Bar tips are also replaceable on a lot of bars, if the ends look like his, not solid. If getting a bartip replaced, a bar is almost always dressed so it is matched to the bar.
A bar is totally worn out when the teeth on the chain start to ride on the bottom of the bar groove. If the bottom of the drive teeth show ANY wear that flattens them out, the bar is shot, you begin to ruin chains. Also anytime you have your bar and chain off, check the condition of your rim or sprocket. It is a 3 part system, if one part is shot, it starts wearing another. A chain that is stretched too much can wear out a bartip and rim, a bad rim, can wear a chain...
Use real bar oil, don't cut down the rackers to far (use a gauge), that will stretch your chain and can ruin your tip and rim, and don't force a dull chain!
Oh and if you see your chain starting to get too loose, stop and tighten it, snug, but not too tight, a loose chain slapping on the bar can cause your bar grooves to wear faster.
Also take a piece of wire and clean out the hole so the oil can access the channel in the bar.
We always carried a big flat file to dress the sides of the bar. I thought it was the greatest thing in the world when stihl started making self contained sprockets on the tip of thier bars and you didn't have to carry grease for the. If you ever had your little grease gun come open in your chaps pocket in hot weather you know what i mean. Lol
Any videos on dressing the bar....the right way? I’ve seen it done once or twice but anyway what grinder do you use? I will practice on burned up bars before customers lol
Jeff Vimpeny you don't need a video. All you are doing is knocking off the burr that forms on the edge usually most apparent right before or after the tip sprocket on the bar. Just smoth the bar our back to the side finish enough that all the burrs who will be at a 90°angle from the side are broken off or filed off. My recommendation is a long medium or fine file with a wooden handle. Doesn't take but a minute to fix a bar back to perfect cutting.
Jeff Vimpeny in this video at 4:55 there is a side view of the saw. Up towards the tip you will see a dark area on the edge of the top and bottom. That is where the worst of the burr that hinders cutting forms. They will eventually form over the entire straight parts of the bar but that is where it is the worst.
Thank you, Cody. I was never taught any of this before so I never took care of the chain saws I've used properly. Now I know better and will do better.
I try to blow out my bar with compressed air regularly to keep the rails and the oil port clean.
I use the pick designed for that.Also grease the nose sprocket,too.
Another handy tool is the depth guide gage. Helps you get the correct cutting depth on your cutters so they cut fast but not so fast they bog down the engine. Some of them have a hook formed on one end to use for cleaning out the bar. Also, a square block of wood and a good flat file can rescue a worn bar, especially the laminated ones. Seems they have a deeper chain groove sometimes. And just a quick look at the bar can spot a wire edge forming when they are wearing down.
You can extend the life even further by squaring the rails back up true and then using a bar rail closer to close the groove back to spec so there is no side to side slop.
I really enjoy your videos, keep it up!
RookieChainsaws
I've only ever met one guy who set the gap on his bars and squared the rail with a belt sander. I'll try to square it up with a flat file if I deburr it.
Micah Detwiler I myself usually only deburr and square one up every now and then, since I dont live on a saw and run many different saws when I do run one for extended periods, I've never actually had to close a gap. But you can probably get about one or two gap closures before the channel is too shallow and the drive links bottom out causing the tie straps to not ride on the rails.
As a guy that makes my living with chainsaws for the past 25 years I can say that the amount you gain by resetting a bar is negligible in the long run, I have better things to be doing with my time, like writing this lol! But seriously when you factor in tip wear and such it Is usually time to just replace the damn thing and be done with it.
Growing up in logging country I learned early on the bars are reversed to get a nice true edge. As the bars wears, it will tend to wear on one edge more than another causing the saw to walk and not cut straight. Another lesson learned is to dress the bar edges with a file to take the burs off. One more option for added longevity is to use a trueing tool to set the gap in the chain channel.
they also make a little small grease gun to grease the tip of your bar where the roller bearing is, as the oil from the Oiler that oils that chain does not make it to this bearing on the very tip of your saw, and if you'll notice there is a hole on both sides of the bar just like at the other end where the automatic Oiler does it oiling
Ty for clearing that up,makes perfect sense.
Im glad my dad taught me when i was young how to take care of my saw. He hand filed and i still do. But, he made sure to flip the bar when he sharpened the chain. His saying was 5 extra minutes to make sure you dont lose the whole day.
Great stuff. This is the kind of thing a professional just knows and we amateurs never figure out.
rjtumble Came here to say that👍
Was going to say the same thing. I've been around saws my whole life and never knew there was a reason to flip a bar. Makes a lot of sense though.
Same here. Somehow my dad managed to teach me absolutely nothing about logging when ever he took me out to help him. Well, there was one thing he always told me: Don't run the chain into the ground! But that one's kinda obvious so I don't really count that as a lesson.
It is literally in every single chainsaw owners manual.
Ha! Maybe manufacturers need to start converting manuals into youtube videos.
Never heard of the the vertical straightedge tip before, can learn something everyday ! All the wood we ever see has been skidded ... pretty tough not to file at the sort a bunch of times, and thats even after chopping a ring !
You could take a used bar and use it to make a mount for sharpening chains without leaving it on a fresh bar on the saw. You could even make the bar or gear movable to adjust tension or length for different chains.
I always remove paint on the bar around bolt hole area. in video you see how scratched paint around bolts. So it when you tighten bar it paint makes a high spot on a surface and where it no paint it is a low spot which makes a gap between surfaces where oil escape. So it I just use some lower grit sand paper to remove all the paint and then polish the surface with flat sharpening stone- NOW it oil supply and bar surface sticks perfectly without gaps.
Incredibly informative! Thank you very much for making this video. I never knew when to replace a bar, and I never knew about flipping the bar to extend the life.
Made my night!
I'm glad I had a pro train/teach me. Only been running a saw for 3 years and I've done this since I started.
This was very refreshing, Cody. Almost a kind of back-to-basics. Can't get enough of these kinds of videos. 🙂
Steve Henkel I couldn't agree more... used chainsaws off and on for years but never knew this...
Off an on for me too. I just subscribed to this channel in January but have gone back and watched a lot of good videos that are several years old. He actually did cover this topic once before but his tastes and projects have widened and multiplied so much that it's actually good that he's coming back to some of these topics. He has hundreds of thousands more subscribers that he did back then so these topics could be new to some people, like yourself. And for me and others, there's been enough time passed that hearing some of the same things, maybe said in a slightly different way, is actually refreshing.
Hate to say I don’t really watch anymore. I love and miss this kind of video. Very useful for me but I may have different requirements than others.
Screw all that refreshing stuff. It's ok to spend some hours cutting firewood for next year and splitting it and staking it all the stuff, but there is nothing "refreshing" about a friggin chainsaw, see?
Homeboy... you can grind a bars edges to flatten that V back to a flat surface and it'll even longer. The bar groove is deeper than a chain link that rides it so it can be ground some.
And don't forget the bar closing tool.
www.baileysonline.com/chainsaws/chainsaw-bars/guide-bar-maintenance-tools.html
I always found hand filing lasts longer. I heard the heat created from a bench sharpener effects the integrity of the teeth. I’d rather hand sharpen anyway. Just make sure you clean the whole thing after
Omgitsjoetime T, thanks brother
Bench sharpening heats and tempers saw tooth making it almost impossible to hand file while in the field ,,, HAND FILING IS THE WAY TO GO !
Johannes van Hoek ahh thanks for slightly more accurate info. I wasn’t exactly sure what the deal actually was with it but it was just something my father would tell me... we had a bench sharpener that he would use on older really messed up chains that he might have been able to reclaim for another round or two of cutting but when they were new and good we always hand sharpened. I, myself only hand sharpen. It’s much more gratifying to me. Especially when you hit something and your suddenly cutting wood in the shape of a J and you bring it back to cut straight!!
Omgitsjoetime T sounds like we are on the same page , yes bench grinding would be the way with a reasonably worn out chain , I totally agree with you about hand filing , it is Gratifying ! PS. Best to you in the new year 😊
I really don’t understand the point of bench sharpeners; maybe someone could enlighten me. It takes very little effort and time to sharpen with a file.
5 things I always carry when I take my saw out (besides the obvious gas & oil, glasses and earmuffs): spare chain; spare bar; scrench (blaze orange, so if I drop it I can find it); and a can of carb cleaner & brass brush for cleaning out the bar and the sprocket on the saw. I usually just keep it all in my truck, but everything but the extra bar fits in a small ditty bag that I can clip to my belt with a carabiner if I'm walking far enough to not want to have to walk back if I need something. My gas and oil and gatorade, along with the spare bar and any other odds & ends (like wedges), can go in a pack slung over my shoulder. So all I have to carry in my hands is the saw itself.
This is why I flip my axe head everytime I sharpen it.
😯... 😐... 🤣
Precisely, I have had the exact same axe for 32 years doing that. I've only replaced the handle 8 times and the head 5 times.
Lmao 😂 😂😂 😂
Put on my chain bar wrong way somehow and wondered why it wouldn't cut.never realised you could get it on wrong before.sorted now thanks for your video.
I clean, file, and true my bars until the sprockets die. I am of mixed opinion as to whether the grease point or sealed sprocket bars are better.
One thing I'd like you to make a video about is chains. What kind of chains should we buy? Why it gets dull so quickly sometimes?
I believe the cat at 2:17 said, "I'll be right back".
Good info all in all. What is important to note though is that the saw itself is not the only thing with oil ports. The bar itself has oil ports in it that tend to clog more than the ones on the saw. Clean them all. A clean saw is a happy saw. McCulloch is my preferred saw but they all work about the same. You won't catch me carrying my truck keys in woods though.
This video's timing was perfect for me THANKS!!!
Probably the best chainsaw input I ever got...Thank You very much
Your real Logger's-Secret post about real Logging,
properly warmed my Pine Pitch and Diesel filled Logger's heart!
I know you already know this just wanted to point it out to someone who may not know. The flat screwdriver tip on your saw tool fits pretty well in the grove of your saw bar to drag it down and clean the grove of all crud. Then just clean the oil hole. Good information for people to think about. As always love the video .
These tips are invaluable Cody! Thank you for sharing about cleaning out the oil port !👍👍👍❣️
If you didn’t know to keep the Oiler clean you probably shouldn’t have a chainsaw
@@IAmDylan122 THAT'S A LITTLE HARSH GOOD BUDDY!! I BET YOU KNEW EVERYTHING ABOUT A CHAINSAW THE FIRST TIME YOU OPENED THE BOX. SOUNDS LIKE YOU KNOW ALMOST EVERYTHING THERE IS TO KNOW, EXCEPT HOW TO TREAT ANOTHER PERSON. MAYBE YOU SHOULD CHOOSE ANOTHER PATH, JUST SAYING.
@@plaidstamp1231 you’re attacking me on a comment from 2 years ago look at your comment talk about throwing stones in a glass house 😂 also yes I did know everything about a chainsaw before running one Im not the type to cut my leg off then learn how to drop a tree
Thanks for the informative video and thanks for not naming it YOU WON'T BELIEVE THIS TIP CHAINSAW MANUFACTURERS HATE!
The bar isn't upsidown. The logo is upsidown.
KFStreich
I always just flip the logo back over...
Brexit Monger it's easier to use a Velcro sticker with the logo.
KFStreigch...Lol. Exactly.
He's not a tree guy. He's a youtuber.
The bar is upside down when the logo is upside down. Top or bottom it makes no difference as long as the bar wears evenly. The logo just helps you know that you flipped it. Wow and you made this comment for what reason? Probably the same reason I responded to it.
I'm a rookie with my Stihl 026. I don't think I have ever flip my bar over. But it makes sense. I do take multiple chains in the woods with me. Thanks for the tips.
If the bar lasts twice as long, wouldn't that make it last 100% longer?.
It would if both sides didn't wear, but they do.if you ruin one side of a bar, the other side is already worn by 20-30%. I don't think you double the life of a bar, you extend the life of the.bar. Most people only flip when it needs sharpening. Nobody I know keeps track of hours. You could run it for ten hours one side in soft wood, hit a nail or dirt, flip it then flip it three hours later because you hit another nail. That's reality.
I've done tree trimming for over 20 years. I wear out one side of a bar to about 60%, then flip it. I get the most bang for my buck that way. Bars usually last me well over a year, and they aren't that expensive when you consider they have been used 8 hours a day, 5 days a week.
RIGHT
Don't forget to check for and clean out sawdust that accumulates in the bar groove as it will re-plug oil hole when you run after flipping bar. My depth gauge is made with a point on either side to accomplish this.
Welcome back old friend.
I clean and flip bar each time...I made a tool to clean bar and oil port and use small brush in the field... Clean with air compressor in shop... it's important to keep bar clean for oiling and so the chain doesn't ride up.
It’s like rotating tires same thing
When I was working in the woods for the summer on fire crews, I spray painted my scrench, bar nuts and files in blaze orange, covering everything. Most of it wears off pretty quickly but helps you find those items when you drop them in duff and heavy brush.
.
2:15 Cat.
Gamma Light lol
Views doubled
Metal filings from sharpening on or off the saw will contribute to wear. After sharpening, remove the bar and chain from the saw and wash with brake parts cleaner or hot soapy water.
Excellent info! Thank's!
Does running your glock sideways gangster style extend it's life by 50%? Or does it all depend on how much twinkie is left lubricating the rail when you excessively nerdcheck?
MattV2099: Guns & Food
I take visegrips ,and close the drag link gap in the bar groove, a few times, before tossing the bar, getting months or a year extra service from the bar.
Hand filing chain has nothing to do with premature bar wear/failure. It's lack of maintenance.
It just makes the guys who can't file feel better about their lack of skill. Truth is, you get longer life out of a chain by frequent hand filing because sharp cutters wear slower than dull cutters. As for bars, the abrasive dust from power grinders gets into the chain and IMO, is the fastest way to wear a bar short of running it in the dirt.
He made a good point about the oil port blocking. I have had it happen to me. I now take the chain off and check the bar groove too.
To be fair, metal dust from hand filing will _also_ get in the chain, *and in the bar*. So yes, it can affect the life of both. Whenever I file my chain, I spray the chain and the bar out with carb cleaner to get rid of the metal powder. And I flip the bar at the start of every day.
Garrisonnaw, metal filings are same hardness as your bar rails. In a lubricated system, this is a negligible concern. However, cleaning your bar/chain with carb cleaner removes all the lubrication. This leaves you with a "dry start", and is by far the quickest way to wear down bar and chain. Carb cleaner (most guys I know use starting fluid, but same result) is great for cleaning saws, but it's bad practice to spray a chain and bar. Use compressed air instead.
Yes. And cutting with a dull chain
I usually flip it when I put a new chain on, I also take the time to deburr the outside edge of the bar, it may get mashed a bit and it starts to interfere with cutting keeping the bar from going through the log easily
I'll save 7 minutes
the bar is symmetrical and is designed to be used in either position, its only the label thats in one position
Great video, have a 290 Stihl and made the mistake of not properly cleaning oily sawdust off the bar bolt threads before switching chains and cross threaded the nuts because I was in a hurry to slice again having to channel lock and remove the bolts to replace them. Clean off your bolts threads!
"Chainsaw bars don't wear evenly. The vast majority of your chainsaw's cutting action happens along the bottom of the bar. ... Every chainsaw bar has been designed to be mounted right-side up or upside down. The reason for this is that it allows the user to extend the life of his chainsaw bar by 50%."
saved you 7 minuets and 46 seconds
Thank you
Only german know stihl. Because stihl is still the best.
@ he only missed it by 50% LMAO
Increase the bar life by 50% is WRONG.
Increase the bar life by 100% is RIGHT.
The small end of the raker depth file guide is designed to clean the slot in the bar and clean the oiler holes on the bar. You run it down the bar a few times and the chain runs smooth again.
**To all who do not want to hear his rambling*** It is to distribute wear, thus adding more life.
You can Use a flat file to knock down the burr, on the bar along the grove were the chain rides, this will help long Gevity of the chain and the bar. You can also use a small putty knife in the grove (were the chain rides) of the bar to keep it clean.
Thanks for the low down on the ho-down. Good info, well presented.
Rather than have the regular big t-shaped tool with me all the time, I crafted a smaller chain adjuster/bar wrench out of an old box wrench using a grinder. It took about 5 minutes to make. That mini-saw tool is conveniently mounted on the housing of the saw, with an extra little loop to help prevent it from popping off. That way its always with the saw, I can adjust tension when I'm out in the woods. The regular wrench (with the spark plug socket) is in the case, where the replacement spark plug happens to be.
I flip my bar when I make a new chain. I can make a chain last an entire season with touch up sharpening. A pro wood butcher wears the top of the bar as much as the bottom because of back bucking, if you don't know what that is you have much to learn. The sprocket I never oil because oil and grease trap grit and grit is bad. A bar is normally pretty worn out by the the time the sprocket seizes or is worn out. As a professional tree cutter I can say that most people sharpen way more than required primarily because they hit the ground or cut dirty wood. A saw should throw chips for several hours of continuous cutting before it requires sharpening, if not, you need to learn how to cut properly.
Except in southern hemisphere countries where we cut nothing but hardwood, 11 up on the Janka scale. There's a species called Black Wattle, the bark produces and abrasive powder. I do 3 draws on every tooth every tank of fuel. Like a butcher's knife, keep the edge on it, it stays sharp, let it dull, that's a lot more work. Old Ironbark will dull ANY chain, even Duracut or Versacut.
Lol you ether know nothing about chainsaws and chains, or you cut sponges with yours. Try cutting hackberry and hedge and let me know how your mythical “all day” chain lasts.
That requires a touch up, that's all. Most of these people that watch these homesteader type videos are not proficient with chainsaws and manage to hit thinks other than wood. There's a very good chance that if you are younger than 35 I've been using chainsaws professionally longer than you have been breathing.
@@dangertreez everyone is different. We cut in different conditions all around the world. I used to go through a chain every two weeks or so. A bar would do about six months. Amazing what sand does to your gear. Get out into hill country blocks and do a chain in maybe 3 months and a bar with two tip renewals once per year. Husky 272 and 273. 7 or 8 tanks per day flat out.
Yeah I hear ya, but I own and operate a tree service in Canada. We cut hardwoods, softwoods, trees on sandy shorelines. All conditions. Much of it boils down to the user, and your sharpening/ touch up skills. Ie a dull saw typically gets pushed down on into the ground, lack of a peavy etc all impacts chain and bar life.
@@gregtaylor8327
Some of the older bars can't be flipped, they have a profile and only oil feed holes on one side. That said pretty much all modern bars are made to be flipped. Warn out rails can be closed up with a rail closer. Bailey's has them, it's a nice tool to have, especially if you're into older saws.
If youre using it for full days every day, flip daily, not every sharpening, loggers wouldnt get anything done if they did that,,,every day is sufficient. If only using it occasionally, maybe flip it every 4-5 filings. Overkill is wasted energy and time. Also, once flipped several times,,,,
, maybe take to a shop that does bar grinding, get it reground, and get it closed up so the slot is the correct gap for the drive teeth.
I flip it every week after deburring and cleaning it. Bars are pretty much considered consumables in the company I work in. If they dont cut straight anymore we throw em and use new ones instead of having a guy drive them to the shop. But if youre a homegamer, taking it to a shop is a viable option in my opinion
You can dress a bar yourself in about 10 minutes!
Cutting curves is when you sell it to a boat-builder!
Seriously, cutting curved is not a bar thing; that is because the angle of file left or right tooth, is incorrect.
sometimes that is true, but if theres too much chain flop, it can still happen.
@@Tony.795 a smart method for a company is to have a maintenance day each week were all equipment is properly maintained /cleaned .. for a tree-cutting service this would include trucks /trailers/tractors and other equipment .. so the bars or chains needing service could be tossed into a certain bin during the week and dressed ...ect on maintenance day (which is best to have at the last few hours of payday,so the employees show up to work ) time is made back during the jobs by having ready to go chains,bars..ect allready on the truck ..
I have an old Poulan 3400 that cannot run the bar in either direction, however, I believe it may be an aftermarket bar which only has one tension adjustment hole.
My dad has an old chainsaw his grandpa gave it to him I’m thinking about buying a new one which one is a good one I maybe use it once a year to cut firewood
Hank Hill the Stihl ms 170 is a nice saw for firewood
Hank Hill I've collected and worked on saws for years. If buying used you can't go wrong with say a Stihl 026/ms260 all the way up to the Stihl 044/ms440 if you're talking Stihl. The Dolmars from the 6400 to the 7900 are great but within a few years parts will be hard to find. Husqvarna 300 series are great, parts are easy to find and available. If looking at new pay less attention to brand and focus more on dealer support. Avoid the box store saws.
Pro 362
Stihl, Husquavarna and Echo are three top of the line brands. More and more professionals are starting to switch into Echo as their warranty and build quality are fantastic. For firewood cutting, I would recommend anything with a 20" bar minimum. A 16" bar will be just a bit small for any wood worth burning.
Hold on there Hank, I thought you only used Propane!
I've been logging and cutting firewood in the Northeast Catskill mountains since I was 10 years old you flip your bar every time you put a new chain on not every time you sharpen it you always sharpen by hand because power sharpeners actually harden the teeth and make them brittle and they dull faster and you can repair your bar if it's getting worn by simply putting it in a vice and pinching it slightly also every time you change your chain you should take a flat file and file the sharp edge off of the side of your bar
Good information
Thanks for the information I hand file my chain and wasn't aware of this.thank you.
Hand sharpening his way sharper!
Scrench goes in my back or side pocket with my file...or in the pocket on my chaps or my wedge bag... although caribeners come in handy, especially for your water jugs or gas and oil on wildfire
Perhaps 100%
haha. you are a riot. public school at it's best.
Well dang Wranglerstar I was figuring that there was probably little new I would ever learn from you. I've been a Master plumber for almost 20 of an almost 30 year career and you just taught this old dog a new trick
I would perform that test but I don't have a Wranglerstar pencil. 😉 All kidding aside, this is fantastic information. Thanks for sharing.
I don't flip it after every sharpening due to touching up my chain throughout the day as I keep my chains sharp at all times. I due flip it at the last sharpening at the end of the days work. Also you can dress those bars up with a file occasionally. You should also clean those saws at the end of the day after supper. Pull the damn thing apart and clean it, the oiling ports, air filter,and at least 3-4 times a year pull the pull start cover and clean around the mag. and air vent ports. Proper maintenance has led to several 40+ year old stihls sitting on the shelves and ready to work at all times. On a side note I like to strip them every 10 years and repaint and restore them for another 10 years of trouble free operation.
I always flip my bar every time I sharpen my chain. 👍🏼
Chad Cole your also supposed to change out your sprocket if I remember right it’s like every 3rd chain
My guess is you don't sharpen your saw nearly enough! Every time you sharpen, eh? Shesh...
Youse guys don’t understand... they’re not sharpening their chain in the woods.. they are swapping chains\, rolling the bar,, and cleaning out the chair groove (because wood chips will build up in between the rails.)thats where the oil rides to cool the bar
Hobby chainsaw owner.
Don't forget to turn the front to the back too ;-)
there is a small hole near the bar tip that is for greasing the gear in the tip.. and should be done at least each new chain(provided the bar did not accidentally hit the dirt ) there is a special tool to grease the bar in the hole i mentioned .. (something i think you should add to this informative video ) this is something most individuals have never learned about ..and i learned about it a few years ago and have worked years in small engine repair as well as had classes and training in small engine repair and was never informed of it )
hate to be a math geek, but you should prolong the life with 100% :)
agestam no not a 100%, the bar still get some wear in the other side regardless of cutting side used, it still tracks on other side and some people cutting both up and down, so still wear both even if not swapping
Maybe more like 60%
Not a 100 percent 2 times 50 is a 102%.
Brian, as he explained in the video, the bar does not wear at the same rate on both the top and the bottom. Pressure = friction. So it will wear more at whatever point you are applying the most pressure. For most people, that will be on the bottom of the bar and closest to the engine. Yes, if you do a lot of undercutting, then you will also have some wear on the top of the bar. But for the average user, the top of the bar will have almost no wear at all. By flipping the bar each time you sharpen or change your chain, you _ensure_ that you will have even wear on both sides, even if you do cut both up and down. He maybe should have said "*up to* double" the life of your bar, but the point is the same.
@@Tech2188 40&
Thank you i watched your video and I've learned something new today I never knew that you flip the bar every time you sharpen your chain thank you God bless you and your family
I believe that everyone that regularly uses a chainsaw already knows this.
I believe that if not everyone regularly uses a chainsaw, then it’s possible that not everyone already knows this, and I happen to believe that it’s quite possible that not everyone already knows this, because I do, in fact, believe that not everyone regularly uses a chainsaw. I could be wrong about that, though, of course. It’s possible that everyone regularly uses a chainsaw, and the majority of my family, friends, and other acquaintances have successfully hidden this surprising fact from me throughout my life. If that’s the case, then everyone already knows all this stuff, obviously, and this video is rather pointless. I don’t believe that’s the case, but, of course, anything is possible 🤷🏿♂️
a really great value is a rail roller, a rail thickness gauge, and a disc sander with horizontal capabilities..(to true rails).....a simple procedure if you understand the basics......a bar shop at your local saw shop can also re-groove rails..... also..pro grade bars usually have replaceable noses......cool stuff...
It's 4am.
I'm a girl in my 20s and I work in flooring.
What am I doing here?
I can recommend plenty of cool tool channels. Are you interested?
Good question, shouldnt you be in the kitchen!?
@@richard0909renwat I think "flooring" is just a different term for sandwhich making
The bar wears mostly along the bottom groove. It wears along the new bottom groove when the bar is flipped (rolled) to upside down. The far ends of the bar have been wearing regardless which edge has been up. The resulting extended bar working lifetime is somewhere between less than 100% and more than 50%. Now to build the jig allowing machining the bar to accept the next size bigger chain, a link shorter.
Wrangler, you are actually extending the theoretical life time of your bar by 100% not 50%.
actually looked for this comment,
started to doubt myself.:-)
Maybe he took into consideration that the top of the bar still sees _some_ wear, so flipping the bar doesn't give you a perfectly new rail. So it's probably somewhere between 50 % and 100 %.
swiss yeah, I figured that's why I said theoretical, as he did not mention that there is any top wear.
Michael Trower So in mathematics you have the idea of complete and incomplete status. If you were to only use one side of the bar as he implied most people do, then the complete status at the end of its lifetime would be 100%. If, however you were to flip it everytime instead of only using one side you would now have another whole original lifetime, aka complete status. So yes to the layman such as yourself it would seem like it would be increasing the lifetime by 50% of the amended total, you are in fact increasing the lifetime of the bar by 100% relative to the original. It might seem to you like there is no difference, but that would only be because of a lack of initiation to mathematics.
You also have to thing about the mathematical view point of a 100% VS 50% is you can measure top to bottom meaning that's 100% of the bar or think in the way of each side of the bar is 100% brand new and no where when bought. So when you wear one side it's now not 100% perfect but the other side is "100%" perfect because it hasn't been touched. (Besides the natural friction of the chain going around the top side minus less pressure compared to the bottom. So technically yes you could use 100% more of your bar but because of that frictions probably somewhere around 80% more theoretically
Thank you for the lesson I am 65 and never knew that. This is why I’m a dedicated subscriber!
Great video Cody. Thanks for the information
Brilliant! I miss these kinds of videos... This tip is one my grandfather taught me years ago back when I used to do a lot of cutting he never went into the great detail of why... Just be sure you flip the bar boy when you change the chain. His brother my great uncle did the sharpening for him, so we just changed the chains out. Now 30 years later it all comes together. Thank you Cody. Keep up the great content!
Who flips saw bar every sharpening. No professional does. No one that actually runs.saws for living. The gap is the bar gage which can be corrected same as the lip that developes.over time.
George Stepp when flipping the bar and then running on the opposite side for the first time what is happening to the original side if it wore uneven? Does running it on the off cut side do something or nothing to correct uneven wear? What about those that cut with up stoke as well as down stroke? It seems odd that a recommendation to flip the bar so often when there is probably nothing happening to correct the off side. The only thing I see is clean your oiler port and clean out the chain rail groove.
Flip it and file the burrs off of the bar, clean the mung out of the brake and sprocket, knock the dust out of the air filter, check the spark plug, clean out the oil ports and chain rail, grease the bar tip sprocket; general maintenance stuff. Take care of your tools and they'll take care of you.
Micah Detwiler I run sugihara bars before that I ran oregon. I run saws every day all day. I flip bars every 4 or 5 chains if that.
Kevin Jacobsen I am with.ya brother. I flip them every 4 or 5 chains but some times not that. I let the saw do the cutting lol I don't run dull saws. If I cant set it down on wood and it pull its self through the wood I ain't running it. It hard enough lugging them around.
Also One other thing to note. Is if ur bar chain groove is wore out in there's a decent amount of side to side movement. It will be almost impossible to flush a big stump flat. In it'll cause the chain to pop off as well. Another Tip on why ur saw may cut crooked is, one side of the chains teeth are trying to take a bigger bite then the other causing it to pull to that side. Sharpening ur saw consistently is essential to a flush straight cut!
What a bunch of B.S. The reason the bar can be flipped is simple. Right side up (so we can read the logo) is for the northern hemisphere. If your going to be in the southern hemisphere you flip the bar upside down otherwise the chainsaw won't cut. So simple peoples. Gosh.
So true. You’ve changed my life.
Atlast some one else knows the truth
So thats why the saw i recently got has it upside down.. makes sense.... hahah
BUT...what do you do when you're directly on the equator?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
62 years old and I am still learning things. Thanks.
I bet even after this video some one will still say the bar is up side down lol😂
Brexit Monger based on the words only...
tjlovesrachel yep till they wear off
Yup. Perfect explanation. I hate when my supervisor tells me "your bar is upside down" thinking he's helping me out. I just roll my eyes and thank him.
Another way to increase the life of your chainsaw by 10000% is to put oil in the fuel tank and fuel in the oil tank. You will experience absolutely no wear on the chain whatsoever.
Lmao
I see that a lot by my customers.
You forgot the other alternative, use old engine oil you drained from your truck in the oil tank. Or use diff oil coz it's thicker and better.
So your saying the manufacturers are not competing against each other or are to stupid to design a better product??
I actually did that once on accident. Fortunately, the guy I was working with caught me before I even finished filling it and asked me "what are you doing?" I looked down and _realized_ what I had done, and drained the saw out and started all over again. I'm not a morning person.
Yes you do! Your new husky top handle uses the small end of the chainsaw tool 👍🏼😉