I got sucked into the hype about thick irons and bought a couple of hock replacement irons a couple of years ago. I think the main advantage was more consistent results in learning how to freehand sharpen. But now I can get good results with both.
Hi There! Thick irons work, this much is true. But it's also true that they are largely unnecessary unless you have a Kanna, want to make a replica of a wooden plane or have bought into bevel ups.
Great video. I'm with you on the Original irons, they are mostly very well suited to the plane. I put a Ray Iles iron in a Custom Preston number 4 (number 14 and I only found a couple of parts) and didn't have to do anything to get it working beautifully. There's only one other iron that I really get great results from, fits well and sharpens easily and that's new old stock japanese laminated irons, made to fit Stanley planes. They are brilliant on hardwood, knots, awkward grain. It just shears through it. BTW. Your video is a bit of research 'recommended buy RUclips' for my next video. A new trial from Creators Studio. Anyhow, I've subscribed too. Have a wonderful day. Jamie
@@twcmaker Hi Jamie. Thanks for sharing your experience. I did have one of the Japanese irons. Seemed fine but I chose to sell it as I wasn't using it. Thanks for subscribing. Hopefully I'll get some content up in the new year.
I am pleased with my 2 1/4" Ray Iles iron for my no 5 1/2. Since Stanley no longer make this size there isnt much choice anyhow. But the Victor Iron I put in my no 6 isn't noticably different to the original i performance terms. I have found after market cap irons do make a useful improvement though.
Sell that 5-1/2 on and just get a 5. Problem solved! I may be biased though because the 5 is my favorite. It's the jack of all planes. I have seen some chip breakers in tough shape but I haven't had one I can't fix yet.
@kierannolan8859 - the Iron and 2 piece cap are from Clifton (the green one). Clifton used to make their version of Record Stay-Set cap, but not any more.
@@faceedgewoodworking in my limited experience with Stanley plane irons it all seems like the same stuff to me. That's only going with what I have though. I have to sharpen steel and use it to form an opinion. I never had a Stanley iron I didn't like.
Most people have the problem of 1. simply not having a sharp iron 2. having an extremely poor set up. The thicker iron act as a crutch to force the blade through a poor cut. A perfectly tuned and sharpened blade should be easy to start and finish. The high pitched resonance should be present when you push the blade through using a reasonable cut depth. Again, the vast majority of the issue is not having a truly sharp blade. Most people think they can sharpen, but they cannot.
I got sucked into the hype about thick irons and bought a couple of hock replacement irons a couple of years ago. I think the main advantage was more consistent results in learning how to freehand sharpen. But now I can get good results with both.
Hi There! Thick irons work, this much is true. But it's also true that they are largely unnecessary unless you have a Kanna, want to make a replica of a wooden plane or have bought into bevel ups.
The newer, thicker blades have more resistance to vibration in hard woods. The bevel is also deeper and easier to locate by feel when sharpening.
@@jimgott119 Hi Jim. If you like the new stuff, who am I to argue. I think the Stanley Irons work really well.
Great video. I'm with you on the Original irons, they are mostly very well suited to the plane.
I put a Ray Iles iron in a Custom Preston number 4 (number 14 and I only found a couple of parts) and didn't have to do anything to get it working beautifully.
There's only one other iron that I really get great results from, fits well and sharpens easily and that's new old stock japanese laminated irons, made to fit Stanley planes. They are brilliant on hardwood, knots, awkward grain. It just shears through it.
BTW.
Your video is a bit of research 'recommended buy RUclips' for my next video. A new trial from Creators Studio.
Anyhow, I've subscribed too.
Have a wonderful day.
Jamie
@@twcmaker Hi Jamie. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I did have one of the Japanese irons. Seemed fine but I chose to sell it as I wasn't using it.
Thanks for subscribing. Hopefully I'll get some content up in the new year.
I am pleased with my 2 1/4" Ray Iles iron for my no 5 1/2. Since Stanley no longer make this size there isnt much choice anyhow. But the Victor Iron I put in my no 6 isn't noticably different to the original i performance terms. I have found after market cap irons do make a useful improvement though.
Thanks for sharing your experience Richard. Ray Iles deserves more love, his replacement irons keep the original look of the tools.
Sell that 5-1/2 on and just get a 5. Problem solved! I may be biased though because the 5 is my favorite. It's the jack of all planes. I have seen some chip breakers in tough shape but I haven't had one I can't fix yet.
Thanks for another great video, what is the iron and 2 piece cap iron used on your No. 4 1/2??
Hi Kieran, no problems. It was from a 4 1/2. I've since sold it.
@kierannolan8859 - the Iron and 2 piece cap are from Clifton (the green one). Clifton used to make their version of Record Stay-Set cap, but not any more.
The original Stanley plane irons do the job. People do get all kinds of crazy ideas though.
A 30 year old Stanley iron is ideal 👌
@@faceedgewoodworking in my limited experience with Stanley plane irons it all seems like the same stuff to me. That's only going with what I have though. I have to sharpen steel and use it to form an opinion. I never had a Stanley iron I didn't like.
Most people have the problem of 1. simply not having a sharp iron 2. having an extremely poor set up. The thicker iron act as a crutch to force the blade through a poor cut. A perfectly tuned and sharpened blade should be easy to start and finish. The high pitched resonance should be present when you push the blade through using a reasonable cut depth. Again, the vast majority of the issue is not having a truly sharp blade. Most people think they can sharpen, but they cannot.
Thank you, you just saved me money and grief.
For some the modification might be justified. For 99% of us, it's unnecessary.
O1...hardend it OIL. W1...hardend in Water.