Flat to 0.0002" - Stanley No.5 Jackplane hand scraped...
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Old school woodworking meets old school metalworking...
Here I take a £20 Stanley No.5 Jackplane that I bought at a car boot sale, and hand scrape it to be flat to within about 2 ten thousandths of an inch (0.0002").
Wood planes are cheap to buy second hand, so if you are a metalworker that wants a cheap source of cast iron to practice scraping on a wood plane is a cost effective way of practicing. What's more at the end of it you will have a highly capable hand woodworking tool that you can use yourself or sell to a woodworker.
In this video I am not advocating that you need to scrape a plane to less than 0.001" of flatness, or that this is a better way of flattening a plane than the traditional method of lapping on a flat surface with abrasive paper. For me this is the perfect way to practice the art of hand scraping whilst ending up with a perfectly flat plane that looks amazing.
Want to see it taking some shavings? See here - • Taking some shavings...
Handy Links
==========
Carbide Hand Scrapers - ebay.us/uKTQmc
Carbide Scraper Inserts - ebay.us/FZUxmO
Engineers Blue - amzn.to/3XoBMSM
Rubber Roller - ebay.us/RMBsyo
Surface Plate - ebay.us/2yrNIh
Slip Stone - amzn.to/4d8aJB8
Checkout the video of it taking some shavings here - ruclips.net/video/YvInfTSzjSU/видео.html
That level of tolerance is so beyond overkill for a hand plane that the exercise is absurd and beautiful in the best ways possible. I can absolutely see myself doing something similar just for the fun of finding out of it can be done. I love this process.
The final result is beautiful and unique too with a great story
Well said👍
I completely nerded out while watching this video. I not only like the looks of the scraped plane, I can see how it would be slippery. I have a couple of older Stanley planes that I've never properly paid attention to, and I'm on my way to googling scrapers....
Give it a go - it's a very satisfying process and the end results are well worth it 👍
I knew this response was coming from one who cannot do it and certainly no experience with a truly flat handplane.
Some people just don't understand but you GET it.
Well I know how to scrape..
And I have a rusty old hand plane....
And the operators and newbies will be shocked to see me pull out a calibrated hand plane..... and everyone else will laugh.
You have convinced me
Go for it! 👍
All that scraping was worth it for the aesthetics alone. Just gorgeous!
I love it. If someone thinks it's overkill they can go watch a video on the ins and outs of pocket screws, For me this is the kind of stuff that tickles me pink. I had always wanted to know more about scraping and so last week I went down the old rabbit hole and watched a bunch of videos about it. No reason other than curiosity. Being a wood worker who also has a soft spot for metal working this is the kind of content that I like. 30v years ago it would have taken me many trips to the libreary and many fruitless hours to learn about something so removed from my life.
Thanks Jim - glad you liked it 👍 I know what you mean about the library, a lot of my learning back in the day was through books. Nothing quite like being able to hop onto RUclips and watch a demonstration on pretty much anything that you want. Cheers
Did this to my #4, and my#8, which was fun & completely unnecessary. Glad I'm not alone in the craziness 😅
lol - spot on! 😂
How long did the 8 take?
@@odinsprophet8849 I had a significant dip between the area behind the mouth and the heel that I never got out, but getting everything else in plane took a few days at a few hours a day
@@odinsprophet8849 Twice as long as the 4 I imagine ;-)
Hi Richard - I thoroughly enjoyed your video. I am a retired engineer and havent seen any scrapping since the late 70s. I needed to measure some huge parabolic reflectors back then which I needed to set up on an 8' x 10' surface table and take readings with slip gauges and a telescope. Before I could begin this process a contractor was brought in to scrape the table. He was probably in his seventies and had been scraping for many years and had incredible muscle memory. Once he had flattened the table he went over the whole surface in what he described as a hounds tooth pattern. It was beautiful and you would swear it had been done by machine or robot as it was perfection.
I have restored many planes over the years and have to admit I prefer Record to Stanley as I have always found the surface finish to be superior. Those 80s onward Stanleys look to have been finished on a belt sander rather than grinding and are very coarse indeed.
Incidently I have always been intrigued by the thinking that you must keep the frog in place under tension. I could never see that the way the frog is mounted could have an effect and I was proved right. I have set up all my restorations on my surface table held in place by magnets on the extreme edges and measured them with a DTI and have never registered even a 0.0005" difference with the frog in place or removed.
I do use a scaper ocassionally but mine is made from a very old 50s file, ground to a smooth finish and it keeps it's edge beautifully. I have not used it on a plane though as I find it much quicker to lap them but I can see that a scraped finish is probably superior as there is far less friction. I have to admit that I prefer woodworking to metalworking these days as it is much cleaner.
I will look out for your videos as they are most enjoyable. Keep up the good work.
Thanks David, so glad you enjoyed the video. It must have been quite something to see that chap scrape in an 8' x 10' table!
Belt sanding would make sense on the late model Stanleys and account for the shocking finish and lack of flatness, my bench grinder is 36 grit on the coarse wheel and would give a much better finish than that. Either that or they ground them on an old mill stone 😂
Thanks for sharing your findings on flatness with the frog removed, I was thinking of doing some similar tests to see if it's just another of those myths. I might run some tests for flatness with the plane coming out of a freezer near zero degrees and again out of an oven at 40C to see what effect heat has on it. Academic interest of course!
All the best - Richard
i'm pretty sure that it is a holdover from wooden planes and wedges. there is a serious impact there. i have also measured some difference on a garbage indian plane that i have, but it is a mess in a number of ways. the frog only sits on 3 of the 4 contacts unless you crank it down. someone along the way might have had a similarly bad plane and seen the difference and propagated it again? @@radboogie
Interesting comments, lapping would seem to be easier though not as eye catching as these beautifully scraped surfaces.
Having the frog and iron mounted and tightened during scraping would add beneficial rigidity to the plane for scraping purposes, no?
As I said before I have never been able to detect any measurable change in the sole with the frog in or out of postion. I think you have to consider how the frog is fitted. It is sitting on four pads with the mounting screws roughly central on the thickest part of the sole casting. It is fairly obvious that the tightening of the screws is unlikely to have any effect. If the frog extended to the very ends of the sole it may make a change but as it is, not likely. I have measured every plane I have restored from No 3 - No 8s and they were all the same which is probably because irrispective of sole size the frog size is very similar.
One likely problem with modern [ie. younger than me ;
Never having worked with metal I found this video to be truly fascinating and informative and I agree with some of the other comments that the end result is aesthetically stunning. Thank you
Thank you, that is everything I hoped for with the video 👍
I'm glad you explained why you left the blade in the plane, made sense once you mentioned why. Great video.
Thanks. It turns out that leaving the blade in might turn out to be a bit of an urban myth according to some of the other comments here. I might have to do a follow up video to test that out! Thanks for checking in 👍
24:30 for those interested. I thought it would have been good to remove it (seems easy to bash when it's being moved around so much), but ah well, I guess flex is a thing as well
I can't believe how much I enjoyed this 43 minute video.
Fantastic.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Ditto!!
The sides of the plane being flat and square with the sole allows you to use it with a "shooting board" so you can precisely square up (or cut precise angles) on the ends or short sides of boards. This is an excellent platform to learn to hand scrape. Even the most club-fisted amateur is unlikely to render the plane unusable. (Short of breaking the casting itself of course.)
Yes, planes are an excellent source of cheap yet good quality cast iron for scraping practice. As you say the worst case scenario for a beginner would be to make their plane slightly flatter than it was before 👍
I don’t have any insight to add, just want to offer my appreciation that you’ve shared your journey with us.
Thanks for checking in 👍
I have not seen this done before. This is the first, and I like firsts.
The sides of the plane must be flat and perpendicular to the bottom of the plane if you intend to use it on a shooting board. The mouth should be flat so that when the shaving is made it breaks cleanly. With that said the flatness of your plane far exceeds the true need for a Jack plane.
You do beautiful work.
Thank you Robert.
flat yes, perpendicular not. You use the lateral adjuster to get the blade perpendicular, which you should check anyway even if you have perpendicular sides.
Never heard of machine scraping (in my 50yrs as a tradesman ) just ordered a scraper! Love the antiquated but very accurate technique!! Thankyou
I'm glad you found it interested - congratulations on entering the wonderful World of scraping and best of luck with it 👍
So many new Machinist could learn so much from just this video!
Loved this video. I have restored many hand planes and this is the wildest approach I’ve seen yet. Love the detailed information and the final look!
I really like the content on his channel. He is very informative and helpful, I have been really influenced by my father and a few of my friends to work with wood and metal , and as a kid I used to build everything that I could out of wood because it is easy to work with and the metal influence was by a neighbor who was a welder. And I had a few things that needed to have some welding repairs done on them. And he was a good friendly neighborhood metal repair shop and I was curious about welding and I eventually got a welding machine and learned how to use it for anything that I ran into that needs repairs or a how to build stuff out of metal ? And I liked to tinker with things and build anything that I could do easily with whatever materials that I could scrounge up?
I am certain someone else has suggested that you take all the parts off and see what difference it makes. I would like to know :)
Thanks for the entertaining and informative video. What a beautiful end result!
Thanks 👍 I will probably do a video on it, it'd be good to put a number on it and see whether there is a myth to be busted there.
This is fantastic, great job. I'm also a metal worker and a wood worker and have thought about scraping a hand plane like this but have never done it. Maybe this is the inspiration I need to move forward. Excellent video.
Go for it!
There are few comments here referring to the craziness of truing a plane using this approach, and maybe we all like going a bit crazy now and then so I certainly won't judge. But developing the skill to be able to work to those tolerances with hand tools... there's nothing crazy about that, it's time well invested, and the results are stunning. I would've liked to see the finished plane making some shavings, but that's just my romantic side loving to see old tools restored back to (and in this case far beyond) their original condition. This video was a joy to watch!👍
Thanks Doc! That's the spirit of the video, to introduce people to an old hand metalworking technique used to improve an old hand woodworking tool. And shows that doing things the old way can achieve results way beyond what is actually required.
I didn't want to make shavings in the video because people would have judged it based on the shavings and not the flattening process. But I'll definitely upload a follow on video showing how it cuts which will hopefully answer a few of the questions that people have raised here. Cheers👍
This was simply wonderful! A terrific melding of woodworking and precision metal working. I’ve seen granite surface plates “lapped in”, but never really seen metal scraping performed. Well done, sir!
Thank you very much!
What a stunning finish!!
Quite an interesting, and amazing technique.!.!.! Well done, sir.!.!.!
Beautiful work. Well worth a watch to see such precision got by hand tools.
Thanks. It really is amazing that using hand tools and 200 year old techniques it's possible to achieve more precision than some modern day machine tools.
It's marvelous getting a glimpse into an unknown technique... Thanks for the demonstration.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks Richard, interesting to see how you went about this process, the finish looks really good now but more importantly this kind of challenges how I thought about flatness, realising the many minute scraper marks are better than a gradual belly undulation that appears to be smooth !
I retired from a natural gas utility last year. Towards the end, I was put in charge of a 70 year old compressor station's shop space. It was a mess.... Somewhere down the line while I was organizing, sorting and disposing, I found a granite plate in a battered, decrepit old plywood case. I'd hate to guess how many years it had been since anyone knew it was there - much less what it was, or what it was used for. I've always kicked myself for being too honest to just disappear it....
Such a shame to think that kit like that just gets left lying around gathering dust. Someone else probably swiped it to use as a garden rockery. Much respect for your honesty though, the right thing to do👍
I really should have been editing one of my own videos but yours came up on my screen... 30 minutes in and I hadn't noticed the time. You're really good at not just the engineering but the way you produce and edit the video. Only criticism (and I normally don't criticise) the blackout/transition was about 14 seconds long. I actually thought my phone had stopped. Otherwise it was bloody marvellous 👌
New Subscriber here too 👍
Thanks mate, and sorry to disrupt your workflow 😂 Thanks also for the kind comments, much appreciated! Great to hear some feedback, I didn't realise I left the blackout hanging so long at the end - all the best - Richard 👍
As part of my training as a mechanical fitter, I had to master hand scraping as it consisted part of the City and Guilds practical trade test. It was slow and laborious, but the seagull finish made it so worthwhile and satisfying. However I have never seen a hand scraper with such a long blade.
Nice! I think the bloke that makes them does an even longer one 😬
Great info for getting real results! Its easily worth the money and time when you have a properly set up piece of equipment.
Love it. It's just good wholesome fun. I'm a woodworker who loves metal working as well and this is great!
Thanks! It's a great crossover of two traditional genres, they go well together 👍
@@radboogie Ive almost decided to buy some scraping supplies and trying it out. they sell a real scraper on Amazon here in Canada . I'll have to buy a crappy plane to try it on as mine are not in need of flattening. Im having trouble finding a granite reference bloc,(other than $2500} any suggestions?
Saw this just in time since I'm restoring a couple of old planes. Thanks.
Nice one! Good luck with your restoration projects 👍
Love it - the shown technique and the beautiful look of it.
You're an artist, Richard!
Thank you very much 👍
That was one of the most enjoyable things I've seen since I dont know when. I think you've just cost me... 80+10+15+80 odd quid and my old 1930s No. 4 is looking at me with concern😂
Lol, your No.4 will thank you for it in the long term 😂
great video richard i,m a woodworker with interest in metal work , i,ll bet that glides over the wood lovely
Thanks, yes it's a beautiful silky finish, a pleasure to use 👍
I wish I had the means to overdo it like that. So much fun.
Absolutely beautiful finish, I have no need for it but I want it now😂
Would have been great to see it take a shaving before and after
I wish I had some before footage, saying that it would hardly cut at all 😂 There is an after video here showing some shavings - ruclips.net/video/YvInfTSzjSU/видео.html
Nicely done! If you look up A&W Precision they still make scrapers. Most of the machine refurbishes I've talked to have been quite fond of them. Spendy, though.
That's handy to know, thanks for the tip!
I had just stumbled on his channel by accident and I usually don't randomly stop on something that i am not looking for. But I like the sort content that he is doing on his channel. Figuring out how to square up a plane surface is really interesting, but how is it done? That's what caught my attention. Besides I love working with wood and metal's of any sort. Thanks for sharing this content with us and have a great day
Welcome Rick glad you made it 👍
Got to the end finally. So we never use the side of the plane? A shooting board is the first jig I made and I use that as much as regular planing. You have what I call "overskill" as you can scrape in a machine surface but now its time to use that machine. All this only happens on youtube and I don't think anyone is complaining :) I subbed.
I have never seen this done before! Awesome, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mike, glad to be able to share a 200 year old technique 👍
Hi Richard. 58,800 views. Did you think it would go this crazy? Your most popular video to date.
Was it planned to go this mad? Did you put effort into planning, preparation, filming & editing? It's brilliant by the way. 👌 congratulations. Jamie
When I was an apprentice one of my engineers used to work for Wicksteed engineering making power hacksaws. They would hand scrape the slide ways on them. He told me the supervisor would know who had done each one by the individuals scrape patterns.
Brilliant, thank you; great info' and such a clear demonstration of this disappearing art.
My apologies in advance, if I offered some, but i love the surface appearance left by this technique. Worth doing for that alone.
Thank you.
The sides of the plane being flat and perpendicular to the sole are very important when using the plane on a shooting board to precision plane the ends of a board to create a perfectly square edge on the stock.
That is the most beautiful Stanley plane I have ever seen!
Thanks 👍
Great video! Interesting finish! The sole then works in much the same way as the Stanley bedrock. Less metal in direct contact with the timber. Another upgrade would be to replace the blade with a thicker one to reduce blade chatter.
Once again, great video!
Thanks Barry 👍 Would be really great to fit a new blade, I'm not convinced the one that's in there is Stanley's finest steel.
Fascinating! Incredible video- thanks for sharing your expertise!
Amazing video. Love your explanation of the process, keep on doing your thing!!
Thank you! Will do 👍
The side of the plane becomes relevant when using a shooting board. It should also be 90 degrees to the sole.
And I gotta say, that plane looks beautiful.
That finish is down right beautiful, and as a bonus it's flat too! Great work.
I'd love to have a good machinist flatten and square my woodworking tools to very high tolerances. Pretty cool idea actually.
I learned something new.
I have just lapped a horrendous bench plane I bought for cheap. And I wanted to give it a go. And it took hours on a 400 grit aluminium oxide sandpaper. Now it’s useable. But gosh, My back Hurts 😅
Congratulations on fixing up your plane 👍 Lapping is really hard work!
Not sure how I ended up here, but I’ve always been told hand scraped surfaces are the “flattest” and even in my machine class in school I was never shown what that really meant. Never made sense…it does now!
В России много лет назад...очень популярный блогер делал это же😉действительно хорошая идея шабрить рубанки🙂
I really enjoyed the content here, thanks for showing me something new mate
Cheers mate, glad you enjoyed it 👍
Great video. Actually scraping is used on metal surfaces that slide against one another to hold oil on the surfaces for lubrication, normally one would aim to create only 25% contact evenly distributed over the surface. As you say, not essential for a metal surface sliding against wood, although the reduction of contact will reduce friction and make the plane easier to use. However, it would be much quicker to lap or surface grind the flatness, then use the blue and surface plate to scrap out 75% evenly over the surface. Bye the way, the side of a smoothing plane is used to slide on a shooting board to plane the end grain. Traditionally, a carpenter would have a stub of candle in his tool chest to rub onto the contact surfaces of all his cutting tools to reduce friction, used with your scraped surface would make it extra slick and effortless.
That was a great video , for me personally too it’s great to see some quality u tube coming out the uk as everything seems to come out of America on u tube.
Iv watched quite a few scraping videos over the last few years some pretty advanced and on much larger projects.
These are basically beyond the skill time and motivation I have available to me tho.
Your project was very” tangible ” tho and to the enthusiastic 1st timer ( like me ) a great project to try before attempting to do the cross slide on their lathe etc
My dad has a Stanley plane he’s had for years a little smaller than that one 😁
Thanks Peter 👍 That's one of the beauties of this, planes are easy and cheap to come by and make a perfect platform to practice scraping on. We don't need to work to 0.0002", just that it's not difficult to if the surface plate is that flat. And the worst that could happen? Your plane might end up slightly flatter than it was 😂
I like this because we take precision for granted these days. I was looking at a nut and bolt the other day. So much work and years of iron mining, metallurgy, establishing universal systems of measurement, designing the first screw then finally coming up with the machinery to precisely cut or roll those grooves on just for us to consider it scrap metal if we have no immediate use for it. If we regressed because of some earth shattering event, we would have to relearn so much that we'd just be techno barbarians.
I have a carbide woodworking scraper that you can sharpen quickly with a diamond hone. Diamond hones with fine and coarse are about $25. You can get a steel plate version that's finer grades still for up to 8 inches by 3 inches from Grainger for about $150 for the big ones or $50 for the smaller ones. Extra extra fine is the finest grade. The carbide scraper is about 2 inches wide and straight across and the handle is meant to use on the pull rather than the push. I wonder if it would work for this.
I reckon the 2" scraper will be too wide to take much of a bite in the iron. A typical scraper only cuts about 3mm, 1/8" wide and even then the scrapes are about 0.0001" deep depending how hard you press. Worth giving it a try, but better to just grind the end of an old file and use that.
@@radboogie Aha. Thank-you.
I believe there is a style of metal scraper that is used on the pull stroke.. something that wide could work if it had the right radius on the tip to give the right width of mark, though it might be unwieldy.. & getting the right radius might ruin it for other work.. but if the carbide tip ever breaks in two, maybe can re-purpose the pieces??
A usable scraper can also be made from an old file.. while they don't hold their edge as long as carbide, honing the tip on a fine sharpening stone can be pretty quick - only need to go back to the bench grinder when the hollowed end gets too rounded off..
I brazed together a carbide scraper for machine scraping, & recommend a coarse green wheel for getting it to the right shape, then can hone it on an inexpensive diamond hone..
Great video, I may try this on an old plane or two I have.. & thanks for following up with the functional demo video!
Nice job man! I never thought of scraping in the sole. Might have to give it a try. Thank you!
Go for it!
That was great.
I'd have thought it would be quicker to lap it first, then switch to scraping at the end. Is there an advantage to scraping from the start?
Also, it would be interesting to measure how the shape of the sole changes with and without the iron installed. The conventional wisdom to flatten the sole with the iron installed makes sense, but I've always wondered just how much difference it makes.
Thanks 👍 For me I prefer the process of scraping, I find it more enjoyable than lapping. With a bit of practice you can rough scrape things fairly quickly. Bear in mind that at the start the blue spots are smallest and so faster to remove, it slows down the flatter you get.
There's been some good discussions in the comments here about whether having the innards of the plane installed actually affects flatness, David did some tests and found it made no difference. I will do a video on this at some point to see if there is a myth to be busted. Cheers!
What a fun idea! Nice work.
Thank you! Cheers!
there is something strangely appealing about the idea of doing this lol, quite zen
oooow you genius. you say hope you find interesting. im glued a massive well done.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great! Love that appearance.
That’s a very pretty finish!
Thanks Taylor, it does sparkle in the light 👍
O one little idea is to use a thick granite floor tile. Glue it to thick MDF. Seal the MDF on the end grain/ edges to stop it swelling.
I used one for quite a long time- thick black granite, until I got a precision straight edge and checked to find it was not very flat at all- dished in the middle.
That was interesting to see how it is done👍
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Do you have a video of making the totes? I have seen a few different methods of making them and while Paul Sellars has a fantastic way to set up the layout and get it correct every time, it’s a lot of hand tool work. Another method I have seen involves an oversized blank, a router table with a double round over, and then a jig for drilling the holes afterwards.
I would love to see your method
I used a similar method to Paul for the rear tote, all done with hand tools. I didn't have a rasp at the time, wish I had as it would have sped up the process! The front tote was turned on my metal lathe using a wood turning tool, must admit I really don't like using a metal lathe for turning wood by hand, too easy to catch yourself on something and it really isn't designed for it. Cheers 👍
@@radboogie the rear tote looks stunning, and I know EXACTLY how much of a pain in the ass that is with nothing but hand tools and without a round and a half round rasp. Bravo sir
Thanks, I was really impressed how good the Elm looked with a coat of Danish oil 👍
Thank you for the video! Very interesting and may try it one day!
Thanks Tommy, it's a very rewarding skill to practice.
Great job! Love the finish. :)
Thank you! 😊
Nice job, like how the scraped surface looks and can imagine that it would help the plane "glide" nicer. To your questioning of square/flat sides and why and using it to check the surface for flat, that's not really why, search Shooting Board and you'll understand why you want the sides of your plane 90* to the sole and flat.
Thanks 👍For shooting you can square up the iron using the lateral adjustment lever. I use my no 5 more as a straight edge and for shooting I use a 4 1/2 for the extra weight. Cheers
@@radboogie Tis true, you could just adjust the lateral adjust lever, but nice to not need to always have to remember to do that and instead have a nice, square side. I can see where you're coming from favouring the 4 1/2 over 5, I on the other hand have 4s and a 5 1/2, so prefer that, it's extra heft and length, longer toe, for the shooting board.
Love it! Its Beautiful !
Jännä sattuma, itse tein tuon saman noin 5 vuotta sitten. Graniittitaso siniverinen ja tuo kaavintyökalu. Se oli tosin viisasta tehty kaavin eli hiiliterästä.
Great video. I have flattened several planes the sandpaper on flat surface route and always hate doing it. Your seems more accurate but also probably a better way to take twist out of the bed. I am tempted to try and find a scraper to add as a roughing tool to get the worst high spots out at least. I do like the finish on the plane as well.
Thanks 👍🏼 I also don't like lapping on abrasive paper, can be relentless at times not to mention e cost of the paper. You can grind the end off an old file to use as a scraper. Definitely a good tactic to scrape it roughly flat and finish on the paper. Cheers
I love the scraping finish in this video, it's way cooler than lapping, but I thought I'd share the method I use for lapping a sole that's way off. If you cover the sole with the blue stuff, and then lap it on your sand paper, it'll leave the hollows. Rather than continue to flatten the sole on the lapping paper, just put it upside down in the vise (or a cool box like in the video!) and use a wooden block and sandpaper on the high spots only. It's way quicker than lapping the whole sole for ages, and saves a lot of sandpaper!
@@ricos1497 excellent idea, thanks for sharing 👍
@@radboogie I should have mentioned, it wasn't my idea, I got it off youtube, but couldn't remember the name of the guy that posted. It was "David W", his channel his very good, he is a woodworking hobbyist that delves into tool making too. Thanks for your video, well presented!
@@ricos1497 I watched this video and successfully flattened a no.5 1/2. Works well but i imagine not as good as scraping. Definitely advise wearing a dust mask though, brushing the iron dust off makes it hang in the air.
Creative video, thanks :)
Glad you liked it!
Damn it, now I gotta buy more tools 😂
You owe us a shot where you actually use the this very plane plane. Although I have another question regarding the surface plate: Does it wear down by bluing the surface? I mean when you move the surface to be blued over the surface plate.
I'll upload a video of it taking some shavings in a few days... Surface plates do wear down over time, but very slowly as long as you keep any abrasive substances away from them. Engineering shops will have their surface plates inspected and re-lapped periodically.
If you go to that level, it seems to me you must flatten it under load. I know you left the frog in there, but lapping it with force like you are planing will warp things more. You would sharpie the bottom and lap on a diamond plate or something stiff (sand paper on glass?), and see where its contacting and not. Maybe others said the same, I have not read all comments. The bigger deal on planes is the blade sharpness, it must be top notch as micro nicks cause lines in the shavings.
Agreed, sharpness is everything.
thanks - it's very instructive. However, planes are laid on the side when used with a shooting board to trim both ends and sides of a board square to a face. Also, a stroke of wax would make that plane even slicker.
Glad you enjoyed it. I don't use this one on a shooting board.
Nicely done. 👍
Thank you - Cheers!
You may want to have the sides square to the sole when using on a shooting board.
Look what you've gone and done, now I want to do this to my planes. Can a surface be too flat? My answer: the higher degree of precision in my tools, the less likely I'll be able to use them for an excuse. I like the results. Interestingly, some Japanese kannas (wood plane) is tuned with strategically scraped lows in the sole.
Lol, it's a very therapeutic process with a satisfying end result - give it a try 👍
If you can find Canode Blue (Dapra sells it), it doesn't stain your hands like the oil-based blues. I've had a lot of success with it. It washes off with soap and water (I normally use a bit of borax and dish soap after being in the shop a while and that will get everything off your hands with minimal effort). Only downside is that if you leave the Canode on cast iron for a while (like over vacation), it will rust/stain under the blue spots. Though that is a pretty easy mistake to avoid :)
Thanks for the tip Frank 👍 Does the Canode Blue dry while you are using it?
I have not had any issues with it drying in use. It will stay wet enough to use overnight, though you can tell that it's a bit drier the next day (and gathers dust). I used to do that with my reserve patch where it matters a bit less since you can wipe the dust off with your hand and still have enough there to work with. But I found myself mostly cleaning it off the next morning anyway due to the dust.
I put a thicker layer on part of my plate and transfer it to the working part of the plate. Makes refreshing the blue in between rounds of scraping much easier. I also find it makes it easier to get a thinner layer when you want that. @@radboogie
@@ParallelTransport thanks, will give it a try 👍
I just took mine to a very nice mill and milled a couple thousands off of it to get it accurate within roughly 2-3 10,000ths
39:40 You have skipped over how you ensured perpendicularity of the sides. You have told us how you made the plate flat, and we can assume that the same is true of the sides, but how do you square them?
This a thing of beauty I'd love in my display cabinet.
I didn't make the sides perpendicular as I don't intend to use it on a shooting board. It is actually quite difficult to achieve squareness as opposed to flatness and you need some special tools to be able to accurately check for square - at least with a dial gauge. Saying that as long as the sides are square enough you can make adjustments with the lateral adjustment level, let's face it the iron is never square to the sole after it's been in and out anyway 😉 I think the scraped finish looks great, it makes the tool feel a lot more quality than when it started out - cheers!
@@radboogie
I wish I could do such a job, and the beauty of your video is that it makes me think I just could! That is one of the delights of youTube - finding such inspirational topics.
Nicely done. I am of the older machinist time and would have used a mill to take off the worst part
Thanks. One day I will add a mill to the workshop setup 👍
Actually, depending on the use case, the sides of the plane are used pretty often, for shooting and matching.
How does it work? Back in the Internet Old-Timey days, a dude named Forrest Addy who was a machinist and woodworker scraped in a Stanley #5 to a similar standard. He said it wouldn't cut. He analyzed a bunch of planes that the guys on rec.woodworking said were real performers and found that to a one they were bellied about 1-2 thou. He figured that rock was necessary for the cutting action and control that a skilled workman has. Furthermore the standard "lap your plane on some float glass" technique universally prescribed actually led to that belly being put onto the sole (since everybody grabbed it at the front and back).
It would be interesting to see how your experience compares. Either way, it's a beautiful specimen now.
Haven't had the chance to use it much, but have been jointing the edges of some small pine panels and it's working very nicely. Interesting theory on the bellying improving the cut, sounds like it would allow the plane to bite more easily. It'd be interesting to measure a lapped plane to see the shape it creates.
And very entertaining it is .....
Yore audio is really really good.
Thanks Seth 👍
I thought when checking flatness and as you were doing to see if the planes bottom was parallel with the surface plate the plane should have been set on 3 points then measured from there between planes surface and surface plate
Yes, the bit where I was using the dial gauge was really just there to illustrate another way of measuring flatness so you can put a number on it using the tools I had available.
However the real measure of flatness here is imprinting the plane on the blued up surface plate, in this scenario an actual measurement isn't important - if the plate says it's flat, it is flat.
If you wanted to check a surface for flatness where you couldn't lay it flat on the surface plate, say it had a boss protruding from the surface you wanted to test then you're absolutely right. You could jack up the item on 3 parallel points and then sweep the underneath with a lever type dial gauge.
The evil sound of that scraper is giving my autism a sensory overload, but still, this is some good shit
Liar.
Excellent video 👏
Thank you very much!
So... I'm not only one crazy enough to scrape a plane sole :)
Done this few years ago, on one No4.
very usefull, thanks for sharing
This was very interesting. But why did you mot just take out the iron, during the process?
Thanks. The general wisdom is to flatten the sole with all of the components of the plane in place in case removing them causes the plane body to distort.
Some people have commented here that having the plane internals in or out makes no difference to the flatness, so I will probably do another follow up video to measure the flatness with the components in and out so we can perhaps bust a myth.
It does look really cool, though that level of flatness is really unnecessary, wood moves far more than that. But an interesting video nonetheless.
this is the definition of polishing a turd, and yes i would do this in a hartbeat just for the fun of it