The infamous 'Mavic Screech' is caused by the white Nylon bushing being dry. Its a good idea to add a few drops of mineral oil into the free hub body and a smear over the surfaces of the busing. You will also need to readjust the bearing pretensioner after removal of the axle. Just enough to take out the slight play in the axle. Don't over tighten your quick releases as this can add extra load to the bearings and cause them to screech again. You can of course also carefully remove the seal from the bearings and check the condition inside, if they are dirty and gritty it's a good idea to clean the bearings and re grease with Shimano bearing grease.
GCN team. I just wanted to say thank you. With no experience and armed only with your library of GCN how to videos I just successfully completed a full bike build. Quite rewarding actually so thank you. (although not test ridden it yet)
Neil McRobie HAhahahahaha !!! I'm currently building a new bike myself... And i lost a part of the chain so i can't finish it either :D (well i miss a bottom bracket cable guide too, totally forgot this piece....) hehe
I've used baby oil in a pinch on my brother's Ksyrium SL freehub. He's been squeal-free all year so far, and as an added bonus I get a nice whiff of baby powder any time I'm drafting. It is after all just mineral oil with perfume.
What is the recommended torque to screw back the axle (the one with 5 and 10 mm allen), I just snaped the threaded head of the "silver" part in the black part...
This is a high-quality video, and thanks for creating it, but part of overhauling a Mavic freehub should involve removing the freehub body seal, and cleaning it just as you do the rest of the parts. Reinstall with some drops of mineral oil on the underside, then drip a few more into the seal itself and rub it in. After that, proceed with as instructed in this video.
As noted below, you do Not need to remove the cluster to clean and lube the pawls and bushing, making life far easier, and you can even quick-clean the cogs off the wheel as well. The Dumonde light freehub oil works well, but for the nylon bushing, I work pure Krytox grease into it first, then dab a couple drops of the oil on it before replacing onto the wheel. Regular greases and oils are too heavy, and when coasting at high speed can add drag that pulls the cogset around without pedaling, risking chain overrun and possible jamming.
There is one more part to consider when servicing these free hubs. There is a spacer that sits between the inside of the free hub body bearing and the hub bearing. Reassembling without this will a use the body to bind up (jam) so be careful not to lose it.
Hi there, I have older Mavic Cosmic wheels. I wanted to service the freehub since I have light sticking and some odd clicking noise when it reengages. Problem is after I unscrew as you show (only in my case its a nut on the axle instead of a bolt in the axle) and remove the axle I cant take off the freewheel body. Is there any trick, do I have to pull harder or do these older wheels have a different construction? I'd be really thankful for your advice, everybody ;-)
I literally just returned from a ride 10 minutes ago with a protesting rear hub. Went right to this video for tips and will begin wrenchin' and lubin' 👍
How about DT Swiss 240s hubs? They are pretty popular and OEM to Bontrager and Giant I just went through servicing/repairing mine for the first time and it was quite a hassle (special tools, grease). There are a few videos on the web but none as good as this one.
I use Finish line wet - the green one. Its great from any water Ingress, sound little bit Silent but after a some time IT turns to great sound afterall. Now i just put mineral oil in freehub pawls and sound great. And i listen it Is a professionaly using oil on freehub, i believe this Is the greatest choice. Have a good day mate.
I would pull the plastic washer in the last bottom n clean it up feel much much better(in my heart) and i use Full SYNTHETIC motor oil to lube it feel smooth too~
I have a really old and well-used Mavic freehub but surprisingly it runs quite well for someone at his age. Although the springs in the pawls are busted and bent. I just needs to know the size of the spring. Can anyone help my senior hub?
Can you give an indication of tightness of hub - with your 5mm Allen keys. Is it like cones or must it be tighter ? Also, can I use chain teflon lubricant ? Thanks.
so on the pulls inside the hub, need oil, and not grease? I am trying to put a zipp177 hub back into place after replacing the pulls that fell off and not found, and I cleaned it all, I have the replacement parts but im not sure what kind of grease to put in that part, freehub, pulls. PPL-1? HPG-1? any other? I saw some videos that mentioned ASC-1 thanks!
Any thoughts on servicing the sealed bearings? Are they serviceable by removing the seal and then cleaning, re-greasing, and replacing the seal, or that a non-starter and instead just buy new bearings? Anyone know?
It is going to depend on the type of hub and what conditions you ride in (the dirtier, the wetter = more often). For ball bearing hubs (e.g. Shimano) I routinely service them every off-season -- a simple clean/re-grease is typically all that is needed but you can see the wear on the bearings which is nice. My Zipps needed it mid-season after riding on a lot of dirt where the finer particles got into the hub and the pawls would stick closed. My DT Swiss 240s went over 15,000 kms and then a cartridge bearing went (their ratchet mechanism is pretty robust and their special grease holds up surprisingly well).
Hi GCN. Thanks for all the invaluable cost saving how to vids, I don't see an answer to all the requests for non mavic hubs. What is different about mavic and can this video be used for DT, Shimano et al? Please update description and reply to comments. Ta.
I've been running crank bros candy pedals for a few years... do you think that the alternative shimano XT or XTR would be much more effective/effecient/powerful? i only have one road bike right now which I use for commuting and training rides alike.
I always used baby oil, worked well, cheap, no signs of wear despite many miles, after all it's mineral oil with perfume, oh and it smells nice...apply fairly regularly esp if used in winter...
Has anyone serviced planetX free hub. It got bearing, so I guess similar to shimano. I think Ive undone all the bolts/cones and still cannot take the hub off or pull the axle out. Any ideas why?
Global Cycling Network Been having problems with my Ksyrium sl screeching over 40mph. Sounds horrendous! Decided to follow this video. Looked inside and turns out it was full of black gunky grease. Cleaned her all up but didn't have any mineral oil so used a few dabs of lube for now til I can get some(hope this is ok??!!). Will see tommorrow if she screeches! Thanks for the video.
If my crank continues to turn shortly (for about 2-3 full rotations) after I stop pedaling the bike on a stand or flipped upside down, is it a freewheel servicing issue, or is it probably something else? It happens on my 3-5 year old second hand Giant Defy with Sram Red "Black edition" groupset, and Mavic Ksyrium wheelset (recent purchase). My Aegis on the other hand, which has a brand new Ultegra 6800 groupset and wheelset, let's the crank stop dead on the stand or flipped. Just seems odd. Thoughts??
Zipp hubs are a bit different. Basically the same procedure but the pawls are different and you can (or at least on mine could) use a commercial light engine oil. If you e-mail Zipp they will send you the instructions for your hub.
I have a pair of Mavic Cosmic SLS wheels. Two 5mm Allen wrenches don't work. One does...on the drive side; the drive side I think is a 4.5mm, any reason for this? Oh and where the bossing hell can I find a bloody 4.5 Allen wrench 👎
I was surprised to see Mavic requiring two (2) 5mm's. I thought that violated a cycling law: never use the same nut size on opposite sides of the bike...and thus forcing you to buy 2 sets of tools.
Not directly related to the topic of this particular video but I do need your authoritative opinion on this, if you would be so kind. Should anti-seize grease be used on the Centerlock lock-ring that holds the disc brake rotor onto the hub of the (road bike) wheel? Thanks!
My Ksyrium Elites have been awful since i've owned them. More drag than a RuPaul boxset no matter what I do. Makes me not want to ride the bike. the rear hub acts like a fixie and the front hub has so much drag even with the slightest pressure on the QR. The only way for the front wheel to spin freely is to almost have no pressure from the quick release itself. Next wheelset is going to be Open Pros and Hopes.
TheAce1727 No, that sounds like excellent advice. You need to do intervals of varying intensities, from really hard, short ones to longer threshold ones. Make sure you get plenty of recovery too.
I've always found the high-mid & top-tier Mavic wheels particularly beautiful, but what a rubbish they turn out to be! I bought a set of AllRoad Pros recently. I've had over 20 bikes by now - save for the Rolf Primos that came with My folder years ago, I've never had such rubbish wheels (despite looking delightful on the surface, I'll admit)! The AllRoad Pro set comes in 12x142 (rear) and 12x100mm size. The rear hub has a lateral play of ca. 3-4mm in a 12x142mm frame (go figure!). There appears be no way to get rid of the play. The tool interface included with the wheel won't fit. And even if it did (I stress - it doesn't!), I'd need some sort of a tool to hold the other, perfectly round end, so the axle doesn't rotate about as I try to tighten the cap that appears to hold the internals of the hub together. Unlike the rear one, the front wheel does have an axle retention cap compatible with the included plastic tools, but it, too, has lots of issues. Tried to change the front hub axle from 12mm to 15mm for My other bike - because neither instructions, nor a reference to the tools needed is included with the wheelset (nor is there one online!), and the 15mm axle ends are made of tin foil - you will invariably damage the entire thing in no time, trying to convert it. Scratched the snot of the assembly in the process; installed a Centrelock to 6-Bolt adapter onto the front wheel, put it in the fork - lo and behold there was so much stiction it was impossible to spin. Turns out, the centrelock adapter had dug into (and damaged!) the carbon fork leg: apparently, the Mavic wheel does not like centrelock adapters. My ca. €290 DT Swiss R32 set spins like an eternal engine compared to the Mavics - for minutes and minutes on end. The over twice as expensive and slightly lighter Mavics rotate like a cruise ship anchor. And have a stated max. load of 120kg, compared to the DT Swiss' 130kg. recommended max. load. The sections I would zip at. 35km/h with the DT Swiss R32s, I could barely make 30km/h. The bloody front wheel rim barely touched the tip of the fork while installing it - the paint was instantly chipped off. That's Mavic quality to you! It's unbelievable! The Ksyrium Elites & Pros, the AllRoad Elites & Pros, the carbon Cosmics, the Comete & Ellipse Pro series may (arguably) look as beautiful as Princetons, the Zipp 454, 808 & 858, but, in practice, they are utter rubbish! Steer away from that crap!
The infamous 'Mavic Screech' is caused by the white Nylon bushing being dry. Its a good idea to add a few drops of mineral oil into the free hub body and a smear over the surfaces of the busing.
You will also need to readjust the bearing pretensioner after removal of the axle. Just enough to take out the slight play in the axle. Don't over tighten your quick releases as this can add extra load to the bearings and cause them to screech again.
You can of course also carefully remove the seal from the bearings and check the condition inside, if they are dirty and gritty it's a good idea to clean the bearings and re grease with Shimano bearing grease.
GCN team. I just wanted to say thank you. With no experience and armed only with your library of GCN how to videos I just successfully completed a full bike build. Quite rewarding actually so thank you. (although not test ridden it yet)
You can build a bike and not jump directly onto it for a test ride ? What kind of person are you :D
irlrp Em.... One who forgot to buy a chain (schoolboy error) . The last piece of the puzzle is in the post.
Neil McRobie HAhahahahaha !!! I'm currently building a new bike myself... And i lost a part of the chain so i can't finish it either :D (well i miss a bottom bracket cable guide too, totally forgot this piece....) hehe
irlrp I never realised just how many parts there are until I started. Then it was too late ☺
I've used baby oil in a pinch on my brother's Ksyrium SL freehub. He's been squeal-free all year so far, and as an added bonus I get a nice whiff of baby powder any time I'm drafting. It is after all just mineral oil with perfume.
Love GCN - straightforward advise and excellent camera angles, extremely helpful for beginners. Thanks for another awesome video!
Manic elite free hub removal
Just found your video on Friday, September 30, 2022 and it totally helped me to overhaul my free hub. Thank you much!!!
The Boss's back on the workshop!
when you mentioned having the 'right tool for the job' I actually wondered if someone else was going to present the rest of the video :)
What is the recommended torque to screw back the axle (the one with 5 and 10 mm allen), I just snaped the threaded head of the "silver" part in the black part...
This is a high-quality video, and thanks for creating it, but part of overhauling a Mavic freehub should involve removing the freehub body seal, and cleaning it just as you do the rest of the parts. Reinstall with some drops of mineral oil on the underside, then drip a few more into the seal itself and rub it in. After that, proceed with as instructed in this video.
As noted below, you do Not need to remove the cluster to clean and lube the pawls and bushing, making life far easier, and you can even quick-clean the cogs off the wheel as well. The Dumonde light freehub oil works well, but for the nylon bushing, I work pure Krytox grease into it first, then dab a couple drops of the oil on it before replacing onto the wheel. Regular greases and oils are too heavy, and when coasting at high speed can add drag that pulls the cogset around without pedaling, risking chain overrun and possible jamming.
You can also service the Mavic Freehub without removing the cassette. It makes the job a slight bit quicker.
There is one more part to consider when servicing these free hubs. There is a spacer that sits between the inside of the free hub body bearing and the hub bearing. Reassembling without this will a use the body to bind up (jam) so be careful not to lose it.
critical part of the disassembly and reassembly process.
If you lose it could you use any washer of the same size instead of that spacer
Thanks guys! Please do Campy/Fulcrum! I was just here the other day hoping to find a video for that.
It actually looks quite simple. Will give it a try.
Hi there,
I have older Mavic Cosmic wheels. I wanted to service the freehub since I have light sticking and some odd clicking noise when it reengages. Problem is after I unscrew as you show (only in my case its a nut on the axle instead of a bolt in the axle) and remove the axle I cant take off the freewheel body. Is there any trick, do I have to pull harder or do these older wheels have a different construction?
I'd be really thankful for your advice, everybody ;-)
I would like to know after how many km's have to service them, counting racing!
I literally just returned from a ride 10 minutes ago with a protesting rear hub. Went right to this video for tips and will begin wrenchin' and lubin' 👍
Is there something specific to Mavic hubs that you need to remove the cassette? I typically do when servicing my other rmodel hubs but don't need to.
Thanks! Nice, simple to understand video.Some of the comments below add to the above explanation. If attempting this procedure, its worth reading 'em!
How about DT Swiss 240s hubs? They are pretty popular and OEM to Bontrager and Giant I just went through servicing/repairing mine for the first time and it was quite a hassle (special tools, grease). There are a few videos on the web but none as good as this one.
Would chain lube work well for the pawls? Thinking Dumond Tech Lite chain lube, or would grease or just a graphite lube work better? Thoughts?
I use Finish line wet - the green one. Its great from any water Ingress, sound little bit Silent but after a some time IT turns to great sound afterall. Now i just put mineral oil in freehub pawls and sound great. And i listen it Is a professionaly using oil on freehub, i believe this Is the greatest choice. Have a good day mate.
Hi Guys
Could you do a video on how to service a Chris King rear hub? It seems like a pretty complex process, so I'm a bit intimidated! Love the show
I would pull the plastic washer in the last bottom n clean it up
feel much much better(in my heart)
and i use Full SYNTHETIC motor oil to lube it
feel smooth too~
thank you! exactly my problem.. i'm glad I'm a subscriber to your channel.
I have a really old and well-used Mavic freehub but surprisingly it runs quite well for someone at his age. Although the springs in the pawls are busted and bent. I just needs to know the size of the spring. Can anyone help my senior hub?
Can you give an indication of tightness of hub - with your 5mm Allen keys. Is it like cones or must it be tighter ? Also, can I use chain teflon lubricant ? Thanks.
Can you please do some more videos on DI2
Many thanks
Thanks mate, perfect.
Nice work Dan! Bossed it!
I love all this mechanical stuff.
so on the pulls inside the hub, need oil, and not grease? I am trying to put a zipp177 hub back into place after replacing the pulls that fell off and not found, and I cleaned it all, I have the replacement parts but im not sure what kind of grease to put in that part, freehub, pulls. PPL-1? HPG-1? any other? I saw some videos that mentioned ASC-1 thanks!
Any thoughts on servicing the sealed bearings? Are they serviceable by removing the seal and then cleaning, re-greasing, and replacing the seal, or that a non-starter and instead just buy new bearings? Anyone know?
After how many KMs do you have to service a freehub?
It is going to depend on the type of hub and what conditions you ride in (the dirtier, the wetter = more often). For ball bearing hubs (e.g. Shimano) I routinely service them every off-season -- a simple clean/re-grease is typically all that is needed but you can see the wear on the bearings which is nice. My Zipps needed it mid-season after riding on a lot of dirt where the finer particles got into the hub and the pawls would stick closed. My DT Swiss 240s went over 15,000 kms and then a cartridge bearing went (their ratchet mechanism is pretty robust and their special grease holds up surprisingly well).
Mike Williams Really great explanation, hit the nail
Thanks for the video! But what torque should you apply when tightening the hub?
It doesn't matter much. Just firm enough to stay in place. These bolts don't loosen as you ride. A setting of "firm" ought to do it.
''and you're ready to roll'' Dan Lloyd up to his usual tricks again
Trying to do this gives the same feeling I get when I try to replace my cars brakes ...
Hi GCN. Thanks for all the invaluable cost saving how to vids, I don't see an answer to all the requests for non mavic hubs. What is different about mavic and can this video be used for DT, Shimano et al? Please update description and reply to comments. Ta.
Lots of freehubs have very different designs so no, unfortunately this can't be applied to others.
Any chance of seeing a how to on Replacing Spokes on a Mavic Cosmic Wheel?
dear almighty GCN, please make one for Mavic's new ID360 hub, winky winky
I've been running crank bros candy pedals for a few years... do you think that the alternative shimano XT or XTR would be much more effective/effecient/powerful? i only have one road bike right now which I use for commuting and training rides alike.
Nice watch! What's the brand?
I always used baby oil, worked well, cheap, no signs of wear despite many miles, after all it's mineral oil with perfume, oh and it smells nice...apply fairly regularly esp if used in winter...
About any semi-thick oil that stays in place works. Chainsaw bar oil and motor oil work fine, from personal experience.
Is it possible to adapt an XDR SRAM 12 Speed on FTSL wheel?
Your two largest combination wrenches are facing the wrong way. Damn my OCD.
its just a case of....... I love that expression.
Mavic ID360 hub how do you get into it to replace bearings???
Could you do a video on fulcrum freehubs?
I believe Fulcrum are cup-and-cone hubs so the "How to service Shimano ball bearing hubs" should work
Thanks!
Has anyone serviced planetX free hub. It got bearing, so I guess similar to shimano. I think Ive undone all the bolts/cones and still cannot take the hub off or pull the axle out. Any ideas why?
How To Service Your Mavic Freehub Like A Boss! :)
can I still wash the bike? since there's no grease
Just a quick question.
Why not use regular grease one would use on say, a headset?
It's a bit thick and so the delicate springs on the pawls won't be able to overcome it.
Global Cycling Network
Been having problems with my Ksyrium sl screeching over 40mph. Sounds horrendous!
Decided to follow this video. Looked inside and turns out it was full of black gunky grease. Cleaned her all up but didn't have any mineral oil so used a few dabs of lube for now til I can get some(hope this is ok??!!). Will see tommorrow if she screeches!
Thanks for the video.
+MG Velo update? My elites have started to do it too
If my crank continues to turn shortly (for about 2-3 full rotations) after I stop pedaling the bike on a stand or flipped upside down, is it a freewheel servicing issue, or is it probably something else? It happens on my 3-5 year old second hand Giant Defy with Sram Red "Black edition" groupset, and Mavic Ksyrium wheelset (recent purchase). My Aegis on the other hand, which has a brand new Ultegra 6800 groupset and wheelset, let's the crank stop dead on the stand or flipped. Just seems odd.
Thoughts??
Larry Arrington Sounds distinctly like a sticky freewheel.
Any one now where to buy the bladed spokes? Called mavic they dont anymord produce this
Dan did you break into Simons shed to use his tools
How often is regular?
My crossmax xl rear wheel has play in the hub
where can i get the two pieces in the freehub? i broke one of the springs
sunmin kim : support your local bike shop and they'll be happy to sort it out for you.
what is the name of them? i can hardly find them out over the internet
Do Zipp's significantly differ from Mavic?
Zipp hubs are a bit different. Basically the same procedure but the pawls are different and you can (or at least on mine could) use a commercial light engine oil. If you e-mail Zipp they will send you the instructions for your hub.
Mike Williams Sorry I meant "machine oil" (engine oil is totally wrong for this application).
I have a pair of Mavic Cosmic SLS wheels. Two 5mm Allen wrenches don't work. One does...on the drive side; the drive side I think is a 4.5mm, any reason for this?
Oh and where the bossing hell can I find a bloody 4.5 Allen wrench 👎
I was surprised to see Mavic requiring two (2) 5mm's. I thought that violated a cycling law: never use the same nut size on opposite sides of the bike...and thus forcing you to buy 2 sets of tools.
Not directly related to the topic of this particular video but I do need your authoritative opinion on this, if you would be so kind.
Should anti-seize grease be used on the Centerlock lock-ring that holds the disc brake rotor onto the hub of the (road bike) wheel? Thanks!
what about the front wheel ?
How much do you recommend tightening the two 5mm bolts when putting the hub back together? Thanks.
My Ksyrium Elites have been awful since i've owned them. More drag than a RuPaul boxset no matter what I do. Makes me not want to ride the bike. the rear hub acts like a fixie and the front hub has so much drag even with the slightest pressure on the QR. The only way for the front wheel to spin freely is to almost have no pressure from the quick release itself. Next wheelset is going to be Open Pros and Hopes.
Guys help me, what and how should I train for a 18km long flat Time Trial?
Practice doing 80% effort over 25 kms and doing flat out intervals o increasing duration
Thank you very much :) Global Cycling Network , any other suggestions?
TheAce1727 No, that sounds like excellent advice. You need to do intervals of varying intensities, from really hard, short ones to longer threshold ones. Make sure you get plenty of recovery too.
Global Cycling Network Thank you :)
screw servicing this crap
the freehub on my ksyrium wheel snapped off my damn wheel
guess it's time to go with fulcrum
y not use grease instead of oil?
Because grease attracts more dirt. It also doesn't allow the pawls to engage well in the hub body.
" Error 404: Carbon wells and top tools not found. "
I've always found the high-mid & top-tier Mavic wheels particularly beautiful, but what a rubbish they turn out to be!
I bought a set of AllRoad Pros recently. I've had over 20 bikes by now - save for the Rolf Primos that came with My folder years ago, I've never had such rubbish wheels (despite looking delightful on the surface, I'll admit)!
The AllRoad Pro set comes in 12x142 (rear) and 12x100mm size.
The rear hub has a lateral play of ca. 3-4mm in a 12x142mm frame (go figure!). There appears be no way to get rid of the play. The tool interface included with the wheel won't fit. And even if it did (I stress - it doesn't!), I'd need some sort of a tool to hold the other, perfectly round end, so the axle doesn't rotate about as I try to tighten the cap that appears to hold the internals of the hub together.
Unlike the rear one, the front wheel does have an axle retention cap compatible with the included plastic tools, but it, too, has lots of issues. Tried to change the front hub axle from 12mm to 15mm for My other bike - because neither instructions, nor a reference to the tools needed is included with the wheelset (nor is there one online!), and the 15mm axle ends are made of tin foil - you will invariably damage the entire thing in no time, trying to convert it. Scratched the snot of the assembly in the process; installed a Centrelock to 6-Bolt adapter onto the front wheel, put it in the fork - lo and behold there was so much stiction it was impossible to spin. Turns out, the centrelock adapter had dug into (and damaged!) the carbon fork leg: apparently, the Mavic wheel does not like centrelock adapters.
My ca. €290 DT Swiss R32 set spins like an eternal engine compared to the Mavics - for minutes and minutes on end. The over twice as expensive and slightly lighter Mavics rotate like a cruise ship anchor. And have a stated max. load of 120kg, compared to the DT Swiss' 130kg. recommended max. load.
The sections I would zip at. 35km/h with the DT Swiss R32s, I could barely make 30km/h.
The bloody front wheel rim barely touched the tip of the fork while installing it - the paint was instantly chipped off. That's Mavic quality to you!
It's unbelievable! The Ksyrium Elites & Pros, the AllRoad Elites & Pros, the carbon Cosmics, the Comete & Ellipse Pro series may (arguably) look as beautiful as Princetons, the Zipp 454, 808 & 858, but, in practice, they are utter rubbish! Steer away from that crap!
Pools? Paul's? Pawls? Pulls? I think Dan needs to work on his annunciation
I mean, what is he supposed to be saying anyway?
@@smokeywisk Pawl
nice, just nodes 2 things...
1 - its not MAVIC oil & less recommended...(the shimano)
2 - you forget to put an O ring between the hub and the free hub
Might this be why I feel like I am riding through sand? I have serviced pretty much everything else.
Focussing on this is awfull...
they've watched Art cyclery ask ''ask a mechanic'' video for the oil suggestion
Innuendo mayhem
I need a boyfriend to deal with all this lol
hmm, "I want go into detail on how to remove the cassette" hmm, not very helpful
Why are you saying "pull", its a "pawl" 🤦♂️