Hi Julia Thanks for another Great Informative video, including the mistakes made and rectification methods to produce a working finished component. Cheers. Andy G
Spot on with the logic of loading the pull stroke, especially with a cranked rod. I am sure there isn't too much in it with the load involved but tension will always work to straighten the rod, so it is a good choice. 👍
@@julias-shed No bother. The simplest way to think about it is the constraints, which are the ends of the rods at their attachment points, and then imagine a rod about 0.5mm in diameter; regardless of the load it is going to bend when you push it but it will go taut and straighten when you pull it.
These are interesting parts Julia. Thanks for showing all the detail. I understand how they work now. Doubleboost fitted one to his vertical engine. But this was commercially made, and I didn’t have a clue how it worked. Nobby
Hi Julia I repair clocks for a living and do a lot of silver soldering on brass parts, you need to try a low melting point silver solder and will have a lot more success without melting the brass . If you need any more info let me know. Paul
Good work all round. Mistakes, adjustments and some colourful language are all part of a day in the life, right? I’ve got a mis milled crank disc on hand to remind me to think about which wsy to turn the handles. Also a dent in the wall from when I threw it. Don’t throw things though! 😮 I sometimes sit a lump of steel on top of parts to hold them in place for soldering. You can use wires to minimize the heat sinking. It doesn’t always work the way I want though. Good idea for cheap shims - I like that. Usually there are beat up sets for a few pennies at garage sales and such that are good for general purpose clamping and such. 🤔
Part of the silver solder issue was those hefty(lol) steel clamps work as amassive heat sink, one tip i have used it to use soft iron wire to hold the bits together otherwise great video you could slip a bit of thin tube over the actuation pin to bring I into contact with the plunger at top centre
Yes I hadn't appreciated how much heat the clamps would absorb. I need to try the iron wire trick. I like your idea of a sleeve on the crank pin I hadn't thought of that. Thanks 😃
enjoyed the journey Julia👍👍🚂🚂 anyone who never makes mistakes has never done anything, i could have a whole youtube channel on mistakes, but would have to turn the volume off!!! 🤣🤣 As for turning the mill table the wrong way, well i still do it. iv'e even painted arrows on the handles to tell me which way is which and still do it🤣🤣 I'm going to make some of these lubricators one day they look easier than the ratchet ones. Where from and how much are the tiny clutches. see you next time atb Kev
Just had a thought - might be worth brazing up the body first, then machining in all the features after so you can keep everything in line very accurately.
Have you considered using titanium clamps to hold things for silver soldering? instead of abusing 🤪 your parallel clamps? Available from jewellery suppliers 👍
That's a good idea I haven't looked at those. Will investigate. 😃 Don't worry those clamps are not my best ones! They were already rough or not working well. Bent screws etc
![What's in the box?! 1890s Safe [Restoration]](/img/1.gif)
Life gets easier when you pay attention to small details, things must be made to size and true illuminate any tight fits or binding.
Hi Julia Thanks for another Great Informative video, including the mistakes made and rectification methods to produce a working finished component.
Cheers.
Andy G
Thanks Andy glad you enjoyed it 😀 we all learn from our mistakes and it's cheaper to learn from other peoples mistakes 🤣
Great video
Thank you 😊 glad you enjoyed it.
31:40 😂
Glad that made you laugh I do try to put some humour in now and again 😀
Spot on with the logic of loading the pull stroke, especially with a cranked rod. I am sure there isn't too much in it with the load involved but tension will always work to straighten the rod, so it is a good choice. 👍
Thanks 😃 it seemed to make sense but I couldn't quite figure out why 🤣
@@julias-shed No bother. The simplest way to think about it is the constraints, which are the ends of the rods at their attachment points, and then imagine a rod about 0.5mm in diameter; regardless of the load it is going to bend when you push it but it will go taut and straighten when you pull it.
These are interesting parts Julia. Thanks for showing all the detail. I understand how they work now. Doubleboost fitted one to his vertical engine. But this was commercially made, and I didn’t have a clue how it worked. Nobby
They are quite an interesting mechanism Nobby glad it was useful 😃
Hi Julia I repair clocks for a living and do a lot of silver soldering on brass parts, you need to try a low melting point silver solder and will have a lot more success without melting the brass . If you need any more info let me know. Paul
Normally I don't have any problems with that solder I think it was the huge clamp acting as a heat sink 😳 thanks for your message.
Good work all round. Mistakes, adjustments and some colourful language are all part of a day in the life, right? I’ve got a mis milled crank disc on hand to remind me to think about which wsy to turn the handles. Also a dent in the wall from when I threw it. Don’t throw things though! 😮 I sometimes sit a lump of steel on top of parts to hold them in place for soldering. You can use wires to minimize the heat sinking. It doesn’t always work the way I want though. Good idea for cheap shims - I like that. Usually there are beat up sets for a few pennies at garage sales and such that are good for general purpose clamping and such. 🤔
It can be frustrating sometimes but that's when the it's time to go and have a cuppa! Glad you liked the top tips 🙂
Part of the silver solder issue was those hefty(lol) steel clamps work as amassive heat sink, one tip i have used it to use soft iron wire to hold the bits together otherwise great video you could slip a bit of thin tube over the actuation pin to bring I into contact with the plunger at top centre
Yes I hadn't appreciated how much heat the clamps would absorb. I need to try the iron wire trick. I like your idea of a sleeve on the crank pin I hadn't thought of that. Thanks 😃
enjoyed the journey Julia👍👍🚂🚂
anyone who never makes mistakes has never done anything, i could have a whole youtube channel on mistakes, but would have to turn the volume off!!! 🤣🤣
As for turning the mill table the wrong way, well i still do it. iv'e even painted arrows on the handles to tell me which way is which and still do it🤣🤣
I'm going to make some of these lubricators one day they look easier than the ratchet ones. Where from and how much are the tiny clutches.
see you next time
atb
Kev
Well to give you some idea the video started off at 2 1/2 hours long once I'd edited out all of the swearing there wasn't much left 🤣
Just had a thought - might be worth brazing up the body first, then machining in all the features after so you can keep everything in line very accurately.
True 😁 being a bit more careful with clamping would have helped a lot too 😳 still I learnt a lot for this part
Knowing how to fix mistakes is almost as important as knowing how to do it correctly.
That's true 😄 you tend to learn more from mistakes too.
Have you considered using titanium clamps to hold things for silver soldering? instead of abusing 🤪 your parallel clamps?
Available from jewellery suppliers 👍
That's a good idea I haven't looked at those. Will investigate. 😃 Don't worry those clamps are not my best ones! They were already rough or not working well. Bent screws etc
Pay attention to details, make things to size and true, any tight spots or binding will cause you problems.
Pay attention to details, make things to size and true, any tight spots or binding will cause you problems.
Indeed never a truer word spoken 😃