Traxxas Nitro models: traxxas.com/pr... For additional assistance, please feel free to contact our Customer Support Team at 888-TRAXXAS, or at Support@Traxxas.com.
NightHawk J30 yea, lust get a Losi eight kit or wait for the eight x. Get a real nitro engine without the one way bearing. Have the bump box. Less resistance. More power and reliable.
TheOtherWhiteBread0 I don’t do it for the speed I do it cause it more badass. I’ll take 60mph with awesome sound and smell. With a real nitro engine will put electric to shame. Run all day long. Same thing with my Losi 5t it’s slower but hearing the braaap is all I need. Just my opinion. My electric models are boring to me now. Less fun to me.
@@andyrips834 when i was younger i was all in on electrics, just because i was too scared to learn. something i highly regret doing as id be much more well versed in the aspects of nitro today. i feel like a bonehead trying to learn all the new ins-and-outs but thats all part of the process! nitro just keeps getting better as you continue to delve into that world.
My 2.5 T-maxx from 2003 is still running to this day, just thought I'd put that out there. Over the past 20 years I've put through about 3 gal of fuel at 15% nitro.
Bro I literally run half a gal in one day, in the past 3 years I've been through 3 engines, because I run the for 6 hours strait, IN ONE GO, tell me you have had that truck for 20 years and only ran 3 gallons of fuel, I mean it just goes to show that time can't kill the nitro, but a loss of compression through countless straight hours of non stop running can, fr fr, no cool downs,
I love electric rc’s, but I’ll always be a sucker for that Nitro sound and experience It’s like the V8 sound compared to a 4 cylinder or a hybrid Traxxas got famous because of the Tmaxx I hope they take a chance and do a tribute reboot to the mighty TMaxx one last time Do it right Traxxas, you owe it all to the Tmaxx I know I’ll buy one for me and my son
Don’t discount the Revo, I have one with a brand new 3.3 that when it’s tuned correctly cannot keep the front wheels down! It’s a monster and so much fun to drive.
Just picked up a brand spanking new Tmaxx 3.3 (3-7-21). I can wait to break it in! I also have an 13 & 11 year old 2.5 & 3.3 to go along with our new Xmaxx & Hoss Elector is great, but we need our Nitro!
You can't make lots of engine revolutions cause you can't change the engine ignition timing! This vid information is all false information! The engine spins fast and the explosion in the engine is TOO SLOW to PUSH THE WHEELS WITH ANY POWER! Learn THIS BASIC FACT. THE ENGINE HAS A GLOW PLUG AND NO ADJUSTMENT FOR engine ignition timing.
Dreyn 77 there talking about the air to fuel mixture you can change it with the needles on the carb when there is less fuel present there is more power plus these engines spins at about 35,000 rpm+ they make 1hp plus there geared different
Actually, a straight pipe would actually be bad for these cars. Actual cars use a fuel pump in order to bring fuel from the tank to the engine. These R/C cars use exhaust pressure in order to move the fuel as they do not have a fuel pump. A straight pipe exhaust would lower the amount of exhaust backpressure, therefore making it harder to move fuel from the tank to the engine. It prob wouldn't damage it, but would make it harder for it to stay running. There is the chance however that this could make the R/C car run leaner due to less fuel, which if not tuned properly could overheat the engine.
You should use a head warmer to about 200° to expand the sleeve. After it run out of fuel make sure the piston is bottom dead center by rotating the flywheel by hand. Buy infer- red temperature sensor to monitor the cylinder head.
Great nitro support video but the original one from 2004 with Robert Meadows had alot of great information. Also the Tmaxx 3.3 is my favorite Nitro Model.
When I discovered the T-maxx is when I discovered Traxxas. I actually got it with a Rustler from a friend who was ready to get the Revo when it came out. It’s been about 10ths & still have them. Now I have a Slayer pro 4x4 and a 4tec 2.5 with an OS. Enjoy both the nitro and electric. Traxxas bring some nitro back in a 1/5 scale since HPI is not. 👍
I took my traxxas to the hobby shop its lways been my favorite rc they had the full to offer 50 bucks for it needless to say I took it home and figured out my own repairs.
Ive had the rustler when It was new (30mph electric one) and my dad spent like 400 bucks on it and I'm 15 now and since christmas is coming I'm asking for the jato 3.3 to start my nitro career, lol
Mine was tuned like crap out of the box, way too lean to run at all. I never broke in the engine but after a lot of blown put glow plugs I managed to get it running perfectly
Traxxas makes the best vehicles for bashing traxxas has the best support the aftermarket parts are endless especially for the tmaxx. Just the tmaxx alone put nitro vehicles on the map. Traxxas did much more than people realize for the rc industry. That is why the tmaxx is literally the # 1 monster truck sold in the world.
Starting the 4th and 5th break in tank this morning and than a bunch of us are meeting up this afternoon to have some fun! Xmaxx, Hoss, Orginal 2.5 & 3.3 Tmaxx, original LST & LST 2, and the brand new Tmaxx 3.3 I’ll be running today.... oh yeah!.....lol
I’d wish Traxxas would come out with a Tmaxx 4.0. It should be 1 inch wider and a 1/2 inch longer than a current Maxx V2. Please also have it with a quick release body. Price should be $499. I’d promise to buy one for me and another one for my son. Come on Traxxas, one for your heritage. The Tmaxx is what put you guys on the global scene.
Got me a good old nitro rustler I found the best fuel is 20% nitro 9% oil for absolute optimum performance while not overheating and running good I use VP Motorsport fuel or traxxas fuel both work amazing but only for the TRX does the traxxas work well anything else it’s garbage way to much oil
"In models equipped with 2 speed transmissions, apply the brakes as soon as you hear 2nd gear engage." How many turns out should the shift point adjustment screw be turned out or for what rpm of the engine then? Considering the different vehicle masses and gear ratios, might be a better idea to screw the shift point adjustment screw all the way in so the transmission doesn't shift at all during the break in process for consistent, broken-in engine. :P
The operating temps should be at 270ish, I run my engines at around 245-280 depending on the day. here the guide, I’ve just copied this from a file on my computer so sorry if there are some inconsistencies with your problems. (I'll share this around hopefully it helps. Cheers) now, for the idle being too high or too low, first set it back to factory which is 4 turns out on the high speed needle and 1.75 turns out on the low speed, start the truck and run it around to let it warm up, once you have it warmed up bring it in and let it idle, if it's to high you will need to turn the idle screw out maybe 1/4 or 1/8th of a turn, and see how it's idling then, if you can’t get the truck to start, give it a little bit of throttle, once the engine is warm it should start up very easily. then one you have it idling you can start tuning, when your tuning, go in very small increments at a time, and ALWAYS tune the high-speed needle first, I usually go by 1/12 or 1/16th of a turn at a time, but must guys go 1/8th of a turn, after each adjustment do a few high-speed passes, take very careful note of 3 things. 1. the performance, has it gotten better or worse? when you start getting the rpm up does it sound like it's cutting out? if it sounds like it's cutting out then you are to lean and need to richen the HSN, if it is loading up and the performance is very sluggish then it is rich and you can go a little leaner 2. the smoke trail, there should always be a nice, clearly visible trail of blue smoke coming from the exhaust, always, if you cannot see a good trail of smoke, it is another sign of being to lean, if you’ve a lot of smoke at all rpms then you can go a little leaner 3. the temperature, since this is your first nitro truck it is a good idea, you get a good, reliable temp gauge, the engine should not go over 270 degrees F, if it does it is another sign of being to lean and you should richen it up just a little bit, but something most people over look is that you should not run under 190 degrees, if you do the piston sleeve doesn't expand enough and the engine will wear out very quickly. a last note on the high-speed needle is, never tune by one symptom alone, never tune just by performance, or smoke trail or temp, use at least two, so if you lean the engine out and the temps go from 220 to 230, and you note it's a little more powerful and go a little leaner, the only time you should ever tune by using just one symptom is when: A: you run to lean and the engine start hesitating and cutting out B: the temp goes above 290 degrees F in both cases you need to richen the HSN by at least 1/8th of a turn if not more. now for tuning the low-speed needle one the high-speed needle is set to where you want it, you can start with the low speed, start off at the factory setting, and just like the HSN tune in small increments of at least 1/8th of a turn, if not smaller, when tuning the low speed, you are aiming for a nice crisp throttle response, if you run the low speed to lean you will eat through glow plugs very quickly and it can damage your engine. once you start getting close to what you think is the best throttle response, tune in smaller increments, once you get it so as soon as you touch the throttle the engine start revving up and doesn't bog down at all, so as soon as you hit the gas, the truck takes off, once you get to that point do not lean it any further, and for a safe guard i like to richen it by 1/16 of a turn. to test to see if the low-speed needle is set to rich or to lean you need to do the pinch test, all you do is pinch the fuel line, and count how many seconds it takes for the engine to die, when you pinch the fuel line, the engine should idle normally for a second or two, then just before it dies it should rev up a few hundred rpm, then die on the count of 3. if the engine dies in 2 seconds or less, or does not rev up at all, you are to lean and need to richen the low-speed needle, if the engine takes more than 3 or 4 seconds to die, you are too rich and can lean the engine out a bit more. for then engine not start, check to see if the glow plugs good, to do that just take the plug out, connect it to the blue glow wire, hold the glow plug up against the cooling head, insert the starter wand into the truck and press the red button, if the wire in the plug glows it's good, if it doesn’t you need a new plug, if the plugs good it may be because the engine is flooded, so you need to take the glow plug out, pinch the flue line, turn the truck upside down and turn it over with the start wand and see if that helps. once you have done all your tuning you might have to set the idle again, if you do just follow the steps I posted at the top of the page, you should never have to touch the idle screw unless the truck is idling high enough for the clutch to engage, or that low it won’t start.
Avoid letting the tank run dry? You actually want to run it empty when you are done for the day. Fuel sitting open to the air is not a good thing for extended periods.
Just got my revo 3.3 and am hoping to break it in today. The temperature is going to be around 70 but the wind is out of control right now. Hope it dies down a little later. Looking forward to this new hobbie.
is the spur gear and clutch bell meant to be spinning when idling? my t maxx 2.5 is a bit hard to get a good idle without the truck trying to take off by itself
Kinda new into this tuning thing right and I've been having trouble with my nitro rustler, maybe it's the 2wd but it's just accelerating way too fast when in idle I'd be pleased if I could get a reply helping me since the idle screw doesn't seem to do the job! Now I do Think it might be the throttle itself so to speak but I don't really know how to decrease the throttle without touching the servo but I do have my suspections it might be with the low speed needle to do.
I've been in the hobby 2 years and have 8 total trucks including my newest trucks 1/10 Summit and E-Revo 2.0. But I'm wanting to have atleast 1 Nitro truck and decided on a Revo 3.3, but now I'm having second thoughts because there's no way I'm going to spend a whole day bored as hell watching five tanks of fuel evaporate while breaking in an Rc. I was going to give it a shot but I think I'll stick to my Lipo's...
There’s a guy on eBay that does an oil bath break in for you for $42. It’s the newest and safest way to break in your engine and you can just wait a few days, get it back, and drive like hell!
Why does my Revo 3.3 runs hot ?? My tune is super rich to the point it does 35mph and temps read no lower than 235 F and as I accelerate and use it, it goes up to 265 F
What happens if when the engine is about through half-of-a-tank, and when the engine gets any heat, it keeps on stalling. I don't know why it does that.
and what if no fuel is flowing? ive had my brand new slash for like 4 days now and it hasn't started for me once. The first attempt i saw a little fuel going into the line but it started raining so i went inside. Now nothing and im bummed thats a lot of money
Traxxas should really redesign the carburetor to the trx3.3 engine. That current one is such a pain to use. 1. Very hard to tune. 2. Way too rich on the middle range which can't be tuned at all. 3. too small for the 3.3cc. You would get a hefty performance boost from larger carb. They should really see what Losi or OS has done to their compatible carbs and improve from there. Then engine is OK on every other spec. Except the occasional rod snaps.
Ditch the 3.3 for something better and a bigger engine option. Orrrr rebuild the 3.3 the correct way like say putting a actual bushing on the wrist pin side of the con rod and a carb that is worth a damn.
Hello, I recently got a T-Maxx 2.5. On factory break in settings it takes awhile to idle down. I see thick blue smoke, and am only on tank 2, so I shouldn't tune it. How do I resolve this?
I need help tuning my T-MAXX, I have the carburetor at factory settings and when I try to go it Boggs, I understand it's the break in tune so it's really rich but if I rather ask the pros for help, thanks
Just bought the traxxas t max 2.5. I’ve been in the hobby for a long time. I had an old hpi mt2 that was handed down to me and I drove it into the ground then rebuilt it. Now the tmaxx as soon as I imput any throttle and then break it just jolts and tries to accelerate. This one has 2 speeds and reverse. I’m scared to drive it and haven’t even gotten started on the second tank in the break in process. The clutch shoes from factory were backwards and I took it to my local hobby town USA and they fixed it but it’s still having that problem. With the hpi I never had a problem. It was older and didn’t have half the stuff this one does but it at least let me drive it when I wanted to and not accelerate when I let off the break. No ones done a video of how to fix this problem I’m having. I might soon sending it back to the factory for a refund. I’m sorry traxxas but you let me down. I’m just too scared to continue trying to make it work and wasting my time and money. Seems like a shelf queen. The body is brand new. Not even a scratch yet. So if anyone has this problem please make a video on how to fix it. The first tank I was literally trying to tune it and it made it worse. I’m sorry my comment is very negative but if it says “ready to run” then you shouldn’t have to bring it to the hobby store cause the factory made a mistake. And also the steering servos on every model that I’ve had are never centered properly. So even before I started it I needed to put it on the bench and fix that.
Hello! This video briefly covers that topic: ruclips.net/video/dN88sUqa1GE/видео.html If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact our Customer Support Team at 888-TRAXXAS, or at Support@Traxxas.com.
Traxxas Support I have a few traxxas vehicles but i bought a second used traxxas t maxx with hpi engine i prefer a traxxas motor but it wasnt in there but i put my traxxas transmitter on it a tgi it brakes and acceleterates with the same servo and it steers with one servo and i have tsm but my reciever is horizontal in it and not vertical likes the most models so it is placed likes a traxxas slash 4x4 but i want to use my tsm :( so on wich model do i have too set my transmitter?
![CHILE vs. BRASIL [1-2] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5ObJt_71AYc/mqdefault.jpg)
We need more Nitro models
NightHawk J30 yea, lust get a Losi eight kit or wait for the eight x. Get a real nitro engine without the one way bearing. Have the bump box. Less resistance. More power and reliable.
TheOtherWhiteBread0 I don’t do it for the speed I do it cause it more badass. I’ll take 60mph with awesome sound and smell. With a real nitro engine will put electric to shame. Run all day long. Same thing with my Losi 5t it’s slower but hearing the braaap is all I need. Just my opinion. My electric models are boring to me now. Less fun to me.
Like a boat
@@andyrips834 when i was younger i was all in on electrics, just because i was too scared to learn. something i highly regret doing as id be much more well versed in the aspects of nitro today. i feel like a bonehead trying to learn all the new ins-and-outs but thats all part of the process! nitro just keeps getting better as you continue to delve into that world.
X MAXX With 10ps xD
My 2.5 T-maxx from 2003 is still running to this day, just thought I'd put that out there. Over the past 20 years I've put through about 3 gal of fuel at 15% nitro.
Nice
Only 3 gals in 20 years???
Only 3 gallons? That’s actually impressive it’s so new! My trucks have been through countless gallons of fuel and many engines. 😂
Bro I literally run half a gal in one day, in the past 3 years I've been through 3 engines, because I run the for 6 hours strait, IN ONE GO, tell me you have had that truck for 20 years and only ran 3 gallons of fuel, I mean it just goes to show that time can't kill the nitro, but a loss of compression through countless straight hours of non stop running can, fr fr, no cool downs,
I love electric rc’s, but I’ll always be a sucker for that Nitro sound and experience
It’s like the V8 sound compared to a 4 cylinder or a hybrid
Traxxas got famous because of the Tmaxx
I hope they take a chance and do a tribute reboot to the mighty TMaxx one last time
Do it right Traxxas, you owe it all to the Tmaxx
I know I’ll buy one for me and my son
Don’t discount the Revo, I have one with a brand new 3.3 that when it’s tuned correctly cannot keep the front wheels down! It’s a monster and so much fun to drive.
@@jackdurden466 hey cant forget the awd nitro 4tec bc now all 4tecs are electric
I can't wait for my birthday. I am getting nothing at all
I know im late, but hope you had a great birthday none the less, oh and birthdays are not about getting cool stuff. They are about celebrating life.
That’s deep bruh
Aye bro my birthdays in a week. Im getting nothing too!
Your getting older
bru
These instruction videos are entertaining to watch traxxas has never ever provided bad products/videos/manuals good reputation keep it up
5:15 sounds so cool right next to the exhaust!!!
Just got my Nitro Jato 3.3, Love it!
Just picked up a brand spanking new Tmaxx 3.3 (3-7-21). I can wait to break it in!
I also have an 13 & 11 year old 2.5 & 3.3 to go along with our new Xmaxx & Hoss
Elector is great, but we need our Nitro!
I'm picking up a t-maxx 3.3!! Have you ran it yet?!
Agreed
Glad to see that I’m not the only one using nitro
I have got this for Christmas and it is very awesome thank you for the help and the amazing vehicle!
There are much more things to go downhill quickly on nitros, but I still love them.
Just purchased my Traxxas Tmaxx 3.3 last week from Traxxas I love this rc. It built so well and has alot of engineering and detail in it.
I got a t Maxx 3.3 and just bought the Revo 3.3
I love my traxxas t-maxx 3.3 it is the best vehicle I have in my collection. The one thing that would make me love traxxas more,is bigger engines!!
I heard that wtf at 4:51 lol I had to replay it 😂😂😂 y’all know what y’all doing😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for the tuning help Traxxas!
You can't make lots of engine revolutions cause you can't change the engine ignition timing! This vid information is all false information! The engine spins fast and the explosion in the engine is TOO SLOW to PUSH THE WHEELS WITH ANY POWER! Learn THIS BASIC FACT. THE ENGINE HAS A GLOW PLUG AND NO ADJUSTMENT FOR engine ignition timing.
Dreyn 77 there talking about the air to fuel mixture you can change it with the needles on the carb when there is less fuel present there is more power plus these engines spins at about 35,000 rpm+ they make 1hp plus there geared different
You guys should find a way to make a diesel model with a engine brake and a straight piped exauhst
Logan F diesels don’t rev high enough.
You got $3000?
Actually, a straight pipe would actually be bad for these cars. Actual cars use a fuel pump in order to bring fuel from the tank to the engine. These R/C cars use exhaust pressure in order to move the fuel as they do not have a fuel pump. A straight pipe exhaust would lower the amount of exhaust backpressure, therefore making it harder to move fuel from the tank to the engine. It prob wouldn't damage it, but would make it harder for it to stay running. There is the chance however that this could make the R/C car run leaner due to less fuel, which if not tuned properly could overheat the engine.
@@joshsrcs if you built a diesel rc you best be betting a lot of us "come up with it"!
I can't wait for my birthday because I'm getting a rustler vxl!!
Trust me the Rustler VXL is an absolutely phenomenal AMAZING vehicle!
rustler vxl is the most fun you can have for the least money. its absolutely amazing.
Dawson Morgan I wish I had saved up I tiny bit more to get a vxl rustler instead of immediately buying a xl5 slash
Matthew Min I bought the slash 4x4 started out with a slash 2wd
Ali H. Bro, you HATE rustler 😂😂😂
Thanks for the video! Funny thing is I just picked up a new T-Maxx 4910! This is my first nitro car! Only other hobby grade rc was a xl5 stampede!
You should use a head warmer to about 200° to expand the sleeve. After it run out of fuel make sure the piston is bottom dead center by rotating the flywheel by hand. Buy infer- red temperature sensor to monitor the cylinder head.
Great nitro support video but the original one from 2004 with Robert Meadows had alot of great information. Also the Tmaxx 3.3 is my favorite Nitro Model.
When I discovered the T-maxx is when I discovered Traxxas. I actually got it with a Rustler from a friend who was ready to get the Revo when it came out. It’s been about 10ths & still have them. Now I have a Slayer pro 4x4 and a 4tec 2.5 with an OS. Enjoy both the nitro and electric. Traxxas bring some nitro back in a 1/5 scale since HPI is not. 👍
I took my traxxas to the hobby shop its lways been my favorite rc they had the full to offer 50 bucks for it needless to say I took it home and figured out my own repairs.
They tried to buy it from you for $50 instead of fixing it? If that’s what they did, go elsewhere for your repairs. What a bunch of dicks
Ive had the rustler when It was new (30mph electric one) and my dad spent like 400 bucks on it and I'm 15 now and since christmas is coming I'm asking for the jato 3.3 to start my nitro career, lol
I'm still running my traxxas s-maxx 2.5 nitro and having a great time.
Wow. I never knew this. I'm a bit new to this hobby. Thank you for this information traxxas!
Thank you video was very helpful in breaking in T-Maxx 2.5
Mine was tuned like crap out of the box, way too lean to run at all. I never broke in the engine but after a lot of blown put glow plugs I managed to get it running perfectly
Traxxas makes the best vehicles for bashing traxxas has the best support the aftermarket parts are endless especially for the tmaxx. Just the tmaxx alone put nitro vehicles on the map. Traxxas did much more than people realize for the rc industry. That is why the tmaxx is literally the # 1 monster truck sold in the world.
Starting the 4th and 5th break in tank this morning and than a bunch of us are meeting up this afternoon to have some fun!
Xmaxx, Hoss, Orginal 2.5 & 3.3 Tmaxx, original LST & LST 2, and the brand new Tmaxx 3.3 I’ll be running today....
oh yeah!.....lol
Idk why but o have watched this vid like 30 times 🤣
same
Same
Thank you very much for these support videos. Very helpful.
I’d wish Traxxas would come out with a Tmaxx 4.0.
It should be 1 inch wider and a 1/2 inch longer than a current Maxx V2. Please also have it with a quick release body.
Price should be $499. I’d promise to buy one for me and another one for my son.
Come on Traxxas, one for your heritage. The Tmaxx is what put you guys on the global scene.
The tmaxx 3.3 is more expensive than that, be realistic 😂
When i got my 4908 3.3 T-Maxx in about 08' it came with a setup dvd for a 2.5. I will always feel like i got shafted.
Got me a good old nitro rustler I found the best fuel is 20% nitro 9% oil for absolute optimum performance while not overheating and running good I use VP Motorsport fuel or traxxas fuel both work amazing but only for the TRX does the traxxas work well anything else it’s garbage way to much oil
More nitro models please!!! :D
"In models equipped with 2 speed transmissions, apply the brakes as soon as you hear 2nd gear engage." How many turns out should the shift point adjustment screw be turned out or for what rpm of the engine then? Considering the different vehicle masses and gear ratios, might be a better idea to screw the shift point adjustment screw all the way in so the transmission doesn't shift at all during the break in process for consistent, broken-in engine. :P
Factory set but if you want shorter shifts turn screw ccw
I like the Lows store commercial music
Lol just started up my Nitro Slayer and… connecting rod split right in half! 😁
RE: Tuning woes with REVO 3.3
The operating temps should be at 270ish, I run my engines at around 245-280 depending on the day.
here the guide, I’ve just copied this from a file on my computer so sorry if there are some inconsistencies with your problems. (I'll share this around hopefully it helps. Cheers)
now, for the idle being too high or too low, first set it back to factory which is 4 turns out on the high speed needle and 1.75 turns out on the low speed, start the truck and run it around to let it warm up, once you have it warmed up bring it in and let it idle, if it's to high you will need to turn the idle screw out maybe 1/4 or 1/8th of a turn, and see how it's idling then, if you can’t get the truck to start, give it a little bit of throttle, once the engine is warm it should start up very easily.
then one you have it idling you can start tuning, when your tuning, go in very small increments at a time, and ALWAYS tune the high-speed needle first, I usually go by 1/12 or 1/16th of a turn at a time, but must guys go 1/8th of a turn, after each adjustment do a few high-speed passes, take very careful note of 3 things.
1. the performance, has it gotten better or worse? when you start getting the rpm up does it sound like it's cutting out? if it sounds like it's cutting out then you are to lean and need to richen the HSN, if it is loading up and the performance is very sluggish then it is rich and you can go a little leaner
2. the smoke trail, there should always be a nice, clearly visible trail of blue smoke coming from the exhaust, always, if you cannot see a good trail of smoke, it is another sign of being to lean, if you’ve a lot of smoke at all rpms then you can go a little leaner
3. the temperature, since this is your first nitro truck it is a good idea, you get a good, reliable temp gauge, the engine should not go over 270 degrees F, if it does it is another sign of being to lean and you should richen it up just a little bit, but something most people over look is that you should not run under 190 degrees, if you do the piston sleeve doesn't expand enough and the engine will wear out very quickly.
a last note on the high-speed needle is, never tune by one symptom alone, never tune just by performance, or smoke trail or temp, use at least two, so if you lean the engine out and the temps go from 220 to 230, and you note it's a little more powerful and go a little leaner, the only time you should ever tune by using just one symptom is when:
A: you run to lean and the engine start hesitating and cutting out
B: the temp goes above 290 degrees F
in both cases you need to richen the HSN by at least 1/8th of a turn if not more.
now for tuning the low-speed needle
one the high-speed needle is set to where you want it, you can start with the low speed, start off at the factory setting, and just like the HSN tune in small increments of at least 1/8th of a turn, if not smaller, when tuning the low speed, you are aiming for a nice crisp throttle response, if you run the low speed to lean you will eat through glow plugs very quickly and it can damage your engine.
once you start getting close to what you think is the best throttle response, tune in smaller increments, once you get it so as soon as you touch the throttle the engine start revving up and doesn't bog down at all, so as soon as you hit the gas, the truck takes off, once you get to that point do not lean it any further, and for a safe guard i like to richen it by 1/16 of a turn.
to test to see if the low-speed needle is set to rich or to lean you need to do the pinch test, all you do is pinch the fuel line, and count how many seconds it takes for the engine to die, when you pinch the fuel line, the engine should idle normally for a second or two, then just before it dies it should rev up a few hundred rpm, then die on the count of 3.
if the engine dies in 2 seconds or less, or does not rev up at all, you are to lean and need to richen the low-speed needle, if the engine takes more than 3 or 4 seconds to die, you are too rich and can lean the engine out a bit more.
for then engine not start, check to see if the glow plugs good, to do that just take the plug out, connect it to the blue glow wire, hold the glow plug up against the cooling head, insert the starter wand into the truck and press the red button, if the wire in the plug glows it's good, if it doesn’t you need a new plug, if the plugs good it may be because the engine is flooded, so you need to take the glow plug out, pinch the flue line, turn the truck upside down and turn it over with the start wand and see if that helps.
once you have done all your tuning you might have to set the idle again, if you do just follow the steps I posted at the top of the page, you should never have to touch the idle screw unless the truck is idling high enough for the clutch to engage, or that low it won’t start.
Avoid letting the tank run dry? You actually want to run it empty when you are done for the day. Fuel sitting open to the air is not a good thing for extended periods.
michowski1 they mean during break in. Prevents premature wear
@@traxxasrc10 👍
Exactly, I like to run them dry before they sit because fuel gets all gummed up after sitting if it’s not run dry
We need more girls to do the voice overs. It sounds very efficient and also sweet.
Ra y well la di da someone is goncam get laid
(Rick quote)
I can't wait for my b-day because I'm getting the Traxxas nitro slash
I can't wait for my birthday, I'm getting a hooker and some blow!
Do you like it?
Kevin Holbrook I regret buying mine tbh
Yes! More intro models!
Just got my revo 3.3 and am hoping to break it in today. The temperature is going to be around 70 but the wind is out of control right now. Hope it dies down a little later. Looking forward to this new hobbie.
Bud Bennett I love nitro and trust me your not alone in this hobby
Could you guys make a video on adjusting the shift point of the transmission??
is the spur gear and clutch bell meant to be spinning when idling? my t maxx 2.5 is a bit hard to get a good idle without the truck trying to take off by itself
Nitro rc / motocross same issue, but have you found a fix yet?
@@redraider7614 close the idle screw a little
Kinda new into this tuning thing right and I've been having trouble with my nitro rustler, maybe it's the 2wd but it's just accelerating way too fast when in idle I'd be pleased if I could get a reply helping me since the idle screw doesn't seem to do the job! Now I do Think it might be the throttle itself so to speak but I don't really know how to decrease the throttle without touching the servo but I do have my suspections it might be with the low speed needle to do.
WE NEED MORE NITRO
Yess thank you makes it much easier for me break in my 3.3 motor in thursday
I've been in the hobby 2 years and have 8 total trucks including my newest trucks 1/10 Summit and E-Revo 2.0. But I'm wanting to have atleast 1 Nitro truck and decided on a Revo 3.3, but now I'm having second thoughts because there's no way I'm going to spend a whole day bored as hell watching five tanks of fuel evaporate while breaking in an Rc. I was going to give it a shot but I think I'll stick to my Lipo's...
There’s a guy on eBay that does an oil bath break in for you for $42. It’s the newest and safest way to break in your engine and you can just wait a few days, get it back, and drive like hell!
Do you still have to break in the nitro engines?
Yes
What time of year should you break in the car and how hot should it be
Always remember in between tanks to bring the Piston to bottom, so when the sleeve contracts while cooling down you don't get piston locked.
How do you do that?
@@RossG88 Rotate flywheel at bottom of car
Thinking about buying my first fuel powered
I have my tmaxx 2.5 tuned at factory turns on and all. As soon as you hit the gas stalls
To rich
Nitro forever💯
I need some serious help with my Rustler I need help breaking it in.
Please contact Traxxas Support and we will be happy to help!
U.S. - 1-888-TRAXXAS
Outside U.S. - 972-549-3000
E-mail - support@traxxas.com
where is that into music from?
i feel like its from a home Depot commercial..
Kipper Klank icy hot patch
I’ve heard the music in that add too
Why does my Revo 3.3 runs hot ?? My tune is super rich to the point it does 35mph and temps read no lower than 235 F and as I accelerate and use it, it goes up to 265 F
I’d like to see a nitro summit, nitro bandit, an xmaxx powered by a 30cc gas motor.
Is the truck suppose to move forward out the box before adjusting the idle needle?
I can't find a video that will tell me what's wrong with my nitro cars steering and the throttle
How many hours can you get on the engine, before ending up with a replacement?
@DavidRC Well, my daughter is a newbie. 1 to 3 gallons of run time & a new engine, that is costly.
One gallon of fuel is not cheap either.
What happens if when the engine is about through half-of-a-tank, and when the engine gets any heat, it keeps on stalling. I don't know why it does that.
I think it’s your tank seal.
Where can I find how to put factory settings on the carb need help pls
Great video!
and what if no fuel is flowing? ive had my brand new slash for like 4 days now and it hasn't started for me once. The first attempt i saw a little fuel going into the line but it started raining so i went inside. Now nothing and im bummed thats a lot of money
TRAXXAS NEEDS TO COME UP WITH NEW NITROS
True, its just that electric is better in lots of ways
Forgot the part about replacing it the outside filter and glow plug. When tuning for performance
Traxxas should really redesign the carburetor to the trx3.3 engine. That current one is such a pain to use.
1. Very hard to tune.
2. Way too rich on the middle range which can't be tuned at all.
3. too small for the 3.3cc. You would get a hefty performance boost from larger carb.
They should really see what Losi or OS has done to their compatible carbs and improve from there. Then engine is OK on every other spec. Except the occasional rod snaps.
Very nice video!
I'm hoping for my next birthday I'll be getting the revo 3.3
@Daniel Nunez revo
Ditch the 3.3 for something better and a bigger engine option. Orrrr rebuild the 3.3 the correct way like say putting a actual bushing on the wrist pin side of the con rod and a carb that is worth a damn.
Teşekkürler..
Hello, I recently got a T-Maxx 2.5. On factory break in settings it takes awhile to idle down. I see thick blue smoke, and am only on tank 2, so I shouldn't tune it. How do I resolve this?
can you make a fideo on hot to switch to pullstart on 3.3 engine
Couldn’t do this without actually full throttleling. So I’m unsure if I screwed up anything
Im Getting A Revo 3.3
Did you get it ?
Curly GNR lol
does this process work for the trx pro .15
do you have to do the 5 tank start every time you want to drive it?
no just the first 5 tanks outta the box ...
Thankyou So much.
can you use this same process in cold weather?
I got a revo 3.3 1 month ago its great didnt come whith wheely bar
It’s the best isn’t it? I got that exact same truck when I got back in the game, all new to nitro. I doubt I’ll ever go back to electric!
I am selling my electric e revo and electric stampede so I can get a nitro model. Any recommendations on which one
T maxx 3.3 best rc car ever made.
Make sure piston is in the down position while cooling downm=...
Axis how do you tell if it’s in the down position??
@@gabrielhenson9294 Just feel when it starts to compress and then back it off. You don't want the sleeve to shrink onto the piston when it cools down.
I need help tuning my T-MAXX, I have the carburetor at factory settings and when I try to go it Boggs, I understand it's the break in tune so it's really rich but if I rather ask the pros for help, thanks
Did you get it figured out?
I need to know how to tune it to pull wheelies soon as I throttle up
Sounds good keep up the good work!
traxxas is best.
Just bought the traxxas t max 2.5. I’ve been in the hobby for a long time. I had an old hpi mt2 that was handed down to me and I drove it into the ground then rebuilt it. Now the tmaxx as soon as I imput any throttle and then break it just jolts and tries to accelerate. This one has 2 speeds and reverse. I’m scared to drive it and haven’t even gotten started on the second tank in the break in process. The clutch shoes from factory were backwards and I took it to my local hobby town USA and they fixed it but it’s still having that problem. With the hpi I never had a problem. It was older and didn’t have half the stuff this one does but it at least let me drive it when I wanted to and not accelerate when I let off the break. No ones done a video of how to fix this problem I’m having. I might soon sending it back to the factory for a refund. I’m sorry traxxas but you let me down. I’m just too scared to continue trying to make it work and wasting my time and money. Seems like a shelf queen. The body is brand new. Not even a scratch yet. So if anyone has this problem please make a video on how to fix it. The first tank I was literally trying to tune it and it made it worse. I’m sorry my comment is very negative but if it says “ready to run” then you shouldn’t have to bring it to the hobby store cause the factory made a mistake. And also the steering servos on every model that I’ve had are never centered properly. So even before I started it I needed to put it on the bench and fix that.
My 3.3 revo just blew up the bearings went bad
True
You only need to break in once right? When you buy it?
Leonan Gaming yes
I bought nitro RC mini inferno st 09. Is it any good ???
Is it bad to have too much smoke 💨 if so how do o fix it
I love traxxas.
Can u do how to clean xmaxx bearings
Hello! This video briefly covers that topic:
ruclips.net/video/dN88sUqa1GE/видео.html
If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact our Customer Support Team at 888-TRAXXAS, or at Support@Traxxas.com.
Traxxas Support I have a few traxxas vehicles but i bought a second used traxxas t maxx with hpi engine i prefer a traxxas motor but it wasnt in there but i put my traxxas transmitter on it a tgi it brakes and acceleterates with the same servo and it steers with one servo and i have tsm but my reciever is horizontal in it and not vertical likes the most models so it is placed likes a traxxas slash 4x4 but i want to use my tsm :( so on wich model do i have too set my transmitter?
Can this battery als charge on the live charger?
Can you give a link to where I can buy this model
This is the T-Maxx 3.3:
traxxas.com/products/models/nitro/tmaxx33-tsm
Adam lyzwya
Amain.com
I didn't break it in and is runs good.