Perhaps the best video to explain glass engraving I have seen yet. One question. Can you give a source for the glasses you used in this video.. Thanks.
I would use settings pretty close to what I used in the video to start with. If you’re within 10 watts of mine, you’ll probably get a pretty good result to start with.
Do you do anything after lasering to reduce the chards/flecks of glass that are within the engraving?? I have tried using duct tape to "peel" engraved chards but this certainly reduces to frosted finish. Thank you...awesome video
There are multiple machine options so it’s just a matter of what your needs are. Epilog machines start at $9,995. They are made in the USA and certain models are available in 220V.
What are your thoughts on putting the laser a little bit out of focus when engraving glass? I typically use 70% black also, but with standard dithering and a little offset to get a smoother look. Maybe worth a try?
It could be. The downside of putting it out of focus is consistently putting it the same amount out of focus every time unless you make a gauge or have a way to measure it consistently. I’ve never tried that with glass as I’ve had good results with these settings.
@@danielbastiaans2564 you can try that. I’m not sure how much difference the result will have doing that vs having a dithering pattern. At the end of the day as long as you’re getting a result you’re happy with, I’d keep doing what you’re doing.
To be honest, I’ve never tried to engrave glass with a fiber laser. I’ve only ever used a CO2 laser for that. I don’t know the answer to your settings question for a fiber application. Fiber is more meant for metals and metal impregnated materials.
I havea Fusion Pro Laser. I’m trying to engrave jars that have seams on both sides. I cannot get the machine to laser centered on the front of the jar. I was told to use center center but that didn’t work right. If I position the item on the laser, when it beings to engrave it rotates the jar starting the lasering in the wrong place. Can you help me? I really enjoy your videos. Thank you for taking the time to educate all of us!
@@MakerExperiment so do I. But I feel a lot more confident using wet paper on glass. And on big engraving area I scale greyscale down to 50% grey. But I have a less sophisticated glass tube laser. I run slower and less dpi. I imagine you set a specific frequency for engraving glass.
I’m using Adobe Illustrator. I convert the graphic to grayscale and change the percentage. I believe it was in the video. The actual speed is approximately 30% of the max speed of the machine which is 120ips so it would be roughly 36ips.
A black tempera paint or Cermark laser paint used for diode lasers to engrave/etch glass/metal. Co2 lasers don't need to use paint, probably because the type of light a Co2 laser produces.
I tried it and it seems to work. But I tried a picture frame piece of glass and it seemed to engrave on the backside of the glass. Do you know why it did that?@@MakerExperiment
@@brandonvarner8475 I’m not sure why it would have engraved on the backside unless you did that intentionally. I use a CO2 laser. I’m not sure what type you’re using but you may want to ask the manufacturer of that machine.
the improvement has nothing to do with any of your settings /jarvis vs stucki, speed etc. Its all about increasing that DPI. You're making the lines closer together which make them less visible. When you did that the lines are gone. You may also want to defocus the laser slightly to spread the beam out over the surface more. I really hate it when people go and make videos like this and they don't understand what settings actually do.
I find it interesting that you say this. By keeping the DPI the same and only changing one lever in a design of experiments fashion, we can see exactly what each lever is changing. That’s how I set this up. DPI is a large driver, but the dithering does play a part albeit a smaller part. You are also correct that you can put the laser out of focus to spread the beam size.
This video is useless unless you tell people upfront that you use a CO2 laser. That is why people ask if you paint the glass black. Diode lasers need to have the glass painted in order to see it. This video assumes everyone knows what an Epilog Fusion Maker is.
The information in the video is not useless. It may not be targeted for diode laser owners, but I’ve made it clear in multiple videos that I use CO2 lasers. The description has been updated to state it’s a CO2 laser.
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I used the Epilog Fusion Maker in this video. If you want to see more information on it, go to www.epiloglaser.com/maker-experiment/
How did ya engrave the glass with out a medium?
I’m not sure what you mean. You can engrave a glass directly with a laser.
I use an IS200 rotary diamond engraver for glass work, and definitely the cheapest glass always looks the best results with this type of engraver too👍
This channel is truly an invaluable source of information! Thank you.
I’m glad I can help.
Nice outcome, you have to do tests with vector graphics too instead of bitmap.
Perhaps the best video to explain glass engraving I have seen yet. One question. Can you give a source for the glasses you used in this video.. Thanks.
I’ll add it to the description. I forgot. Thank you.
This has been a great video. Thank you for doing this. Very informative. What settings would you suggest to start with for a 55w co2
I would use settings pretty close to what I used in the video to start with. If you’re within 10 watts of mine, you’ll probably get a pretty good result to start with.
Great instruction. Thanks so much! Are you going to be in Vegas next week?
Yes, I live here but I’ll be at the APA Expo.
Do you do anything after lasering to reduce the chards/flecks of glass that are within the engraving?? I have tried using duct tape to "peel" engraved chards but this certainly reduces to frosted finish. Thank you...awesome video
I’ve only ever washed them with soap and water.
Even when chemical etching, cheap glass works better. Something to do with the composition but no idea what!
Chemical etching isn't better the designs and definition of a laser cant be matched. Way better detail and depth
Laser definition and depth can't be matched by chemical etching.
Thank you for all the info! Your channel has been helping my engraving quality and my business go to the next level. Love my epilog machine.
I’m glad to hear it’s been helpful. You should join the community I have.
How much it will cost to buy? Is it too big? Is it made in USA and available 220 volts?
There are multiple machine options so it’s just a matter of what your needs are. Epilog machines start at $9,995. They are made in the USA and certain models are available in 220V.
What are your thoughts on putting the laser a little bit out of focus when engraving glass? I typically use 70% black also, but with standard dithering and a little offset to get a smoother look. Maybe worth a try?
It could be. The downside of putting it out of focus is consistently putting it the same amount out of focus every time unless you make a gauge or have a way to measure it consistently. I’ve never tried that with glass as I’ve had good results with these settings.
@@MakerExperiment you can put the machine in focus and add an offset when you send it to the laser, or am I wrong?
@@danielbastiaans2564 you can try that. I’m not sure how much difference the result will have doing that vs having a dithering pattern. At the end of the day as long as you’re getting a result you’re happy with, I’d keep doing what you’re doing.
The expensive glasses have a higher Lead content, I believe that why you had trouble Lazer engraving expensive glass
not sure i can even to that with XCS (greyscale)
hello i have a 100w mopa fiber laser, IS it possible to engrave glass ? what IS the fréquency and qpulse have you got use ? thanks to your answer
To be honest, I’ve never tried to engrave glass with a fiber laser. I’ve only ever used a CO2 laser for that. I don’t know the answer to your settings question for a fiber application. Fiber is more meant for metals and metal impregnated materials.
Do you use lightburn?
No, I use the Epilog software.
I havea Fusion Pro Laser. I’m trying to engrave jars that have seams on both sides. I cannot get the machine to laser centered on the front of the jar. I was told to use center center but that didn’t work right. If I position the item on the laser, when it beings to engrave it rotates the jar starting the lasering in the wrong place. Can you help me? I really enjoy your videos. Thank you for taking the time to educate all of us!
Have you watched my center center engraving video? That may or may not be a good reference point.
Great Explaination, thankyou !
You’re welcome!
Thank you! Very helpful!
I’m glad.
Which is focal length of lenses you use to engrave on glass?
I was using a 2”.
@@MakerExperiment so do I. But I feel a lot more confident using wet paper on glass. And on big engraving area I scale greyscale down to 50% grey. But I have a less sophisticated glass tube laser. I run slower and less dpi. I imagine you set a specific frequency for engraving glass.
The frequency I didn’t play with on mine. I mostly focused on greyscale, DPI, and dithering pattern.
@@MakerExperimentI imagine that you use more DPI, high speed and low power?
@martinotalotti8986 almost exactly the opposite. I used 400 DPI, lower speed, and higher power. My settings are in the description.
What tool are you using to grayscale to 70% and what file type are you using? Also what is the actual speed setting at 30%?
I’m using Adobe Illustrator. I convert the graphic to grayscale and change the percentage. I believe it was in the video. The actual speed is approximately 30% of the max speed of the machine which is 120ips so it would be roughly 36ips.
@@MakerExperimentips means inch per second ?
@@KoalaWoodStore yes
@@MakerExperiment so it is a lot , my laser have 130w but only maximum speed of 500mm/s when 36,ips is 960xd
@@KoalaWoodStore yes, it’s a much higher speed than glass tube lasers I’ve seen or diodes for that matter.
How comes it works well yet you don't paint the glass black first?
I’ve never heard of painting the glass black first. What are you referring to?
A black tempera paint or Cermark laser paint used for diode lasers to engrave/etch glass/metal. Co2 lasers don't need to use paint, probably because the type of light a Co2 laser produces.
Also no idea if cermark paint or tempera paint would make a difference with a Co2 laser. Worth testing though.
Looks great
Thank you!
I have an older Epilog Legend 120 watt . How much power for glass ?
I honestly don’t know as I’ve never used a 120 watt. Maybe start at 50% power and see what happens.
@@MakerExperiment WOW that seems extreme, I just did a glass at 60% power and 45% speed with a 40watt laser and I'm going to lower the power now
@@imyourocd a lot of it just comes down to what look you’re going for.
Great info.
I’m glad it was helpful.
If I have a 5.5 watt laser am I still able to engrave into glass?
To be honest, I’m not sure with that wattage. Try it and see if it works.
I tried it and it seems to work. But I tried a picture frame piece of glass and it seemed to engrave on the backside of the glass. Do you know why it did that?@@MakerExperiment
@@brandonvarner8475 I’m not sure why it would have engraved on the backside unless you did that intentionally. I use a CO2 laser. I’m not sure what type you’re using but you may want to ask the manufacturer of that machine.
What was the job time on the 400 dpi?
It was around 3 minutes.
don't you have to paint or coating the glass first??
Not at all.
Excellent video.
Thank you!
What is your maximum speed in mm/s?
The Maker has a top speed of 60IPS which is about 1,524 mm/s. Just FYI, you can find all of this with google.
What does 30% speed even mean?
My machine uses percentages of speed. The max engraving speed on Fusion Maker is 60 inches per second. So 30% would be roughly 18 inches per second.
the improvement has nothing to do with any of your settings /jarvis vs stucki, speed etc. Its all about increasing that DPI. You're making the lines closer together which make them less visible. When you did that the lines are gone. You may also want to defocus the laser slightly to spread the beam out over the surface more. I really hate it when people go and make videos like this and they don't understand what settings actually do.
I find it interesting that you say this. By keeping the DPI the same and only changing one lever in a design of experiments fashion, we can see exactly what each lever is changing. That’s how I set this up. DPI is a large driver, but the dithering does play a part albeit a smaller part. You are also correct that you can put the laser out of focus to spread the beam size.
The machines start at $10K???
For the Epilog brand, yes. There are other brands that are cheaper. It just depends on the type of build quality and capabilities you’re looking for.
Bro, Why the fuck your videos are not over 100k views :/ Keep up the amazing work though
I wish I knew. Feel free to make it go viral 😂.
This video is useless unless you tell people upfront that you use a CO2 laser. That is why people ask if you paint the glass black. Diode lasers need to have the glass painted in order to see it. This video assumes everyone knows what an Epilog Fusion Maker is.
The information in the video is not useless. It may not be targeted for diode laser owners, but I’ve made it clear in multiple videos that I use CO2 lasers. The description has been updated to state it’s a CO2 laser.
Bros using airpods to record the audio or something😭
There were spots of audio that could be better but it should be good enough to get the information.