When doing the Amal carbs, Premiers or early types, I always ensure I get a good spray of cleaner (carb, throttle, brake cleaners or even just WD40) up and out the two tiny holes in the carb body throat. These are the holes fuel/air mixture from the pilot jet has to pass through. If they have any restriction, poor running will result. One the Premiers, also blow cleaner through the pilot jet (removed from carb) to check spray out the 3 or 4 periphery holes of the jet. Another good tip, for even new sets of Premiers, thoroughly spray out all the fuel passages from bottom of bowl and in the carb body. Many reports of these have machining swarf still present out of the box. Have heard ultrasonics do not always remove the crust of fuel residue inside carb jets (from leaving fuel in carb during storage), so be aware of that and confirm your jets flow clean as stated above. A good tip I heard for ultrasonic....place items in a glass jar, a plastic container or even a plastic bag....fill container with a solvent best matched for the job at hand (say acetone, kerosine, gas, concentrated degreaser etc) and then put contain in ultrasonic fill with clean water only. Makes for more effective cleaning, much reduced waste and easy clean up. Be careful placing carb sealing surfaces against the wire tray in the ultrasonic tank....the vibrations can etch into the sealing surface over time, making for a leaky carb. Saw recent video of someone using ultrasonic on a vintage 1924 Amal carb in a metal mesh tray....came out with surface plating worn away at contact points, making his metallic-silver carb body revealing a brass metal beneath in a grid pattern.
All very good advice. I usually spray all the jets out with carb cleaner. I’m not sure why I didn’t hear. I’ve never heard of the metal grate breaking down parts before, but that makes sense. I’ll keep all of these suggestions in mind and modify how I use it in the future!
If your using a k&n aftermarket air filter, I'd use those plastic or i cut the metal cones that come with the carbs and they don't look perfect. Also the carbs have a L or R on them and should have a flat spot on the stud hole on the inside so they both fit tightly next to each other. Using a jis screwdriver on a British bike 😮😂
@@motohomeless9168 Actually JIS is the correct driver for the Amal screws....seen a lot where Philips have ruined the screw head. Be sure to not overtighten the float bowl screws or the carb mounting flange nuts....just get the lock washers to flatten and that's all. Too much will squash the softer carb material and deform the gasket surface and/or warp the carb body, leading to air leaks and possibly even throttle slide jamming.
When doing the Amal carbs, Premiers or early types, I always ensure I get a good spray of cleaner (carb, throttle, brake cleaners or even just WD40) up and out the two tiny holes in the carb body throat. These are the holes fuel/air mixture from the pilot jet has to pass through. If they have any restriction, poor running will result. One the Premiers, also blow cleaner through the pilot jet (removed from carb) to check spray out the 3 or 4 periphery holes of the jet. Another good tip, for even new sets of Premiers, thoroughly spray out all the fuel passages from bottom of bowl and in the carb body. Many reports of these have machining swarf still present out of the box.
Have heard ultrasonics do not always remove the crust of fuel residue inside carb jets (from leaving fuel in carb during storage), so be aware of that and confirm your jets flow clean as stated above. A good tip I heard for ultrasonic....place items in a glass jar, a plastic container or even a plastic bag....fill container with a solvent best matched for the job at hand (say acetone, kerosine, gas, concentrated degreaser etc) and then put contain in ultrasonic fill with clean water only. Makes for more effective cleaning, much reduced waste and easy clean up. Be careful placing carb sealing surfaces against the wire tray in the ultrasonic tank....the vibrations can etch into the sealing surface over time, making for a leaky carb. Saw recent video of someone using ultrasonic on a vintage 1924 Amal carb in a metal mesh tray....came out with surface plating worn away at contact points, making his metallic-silver carb body revealing a brass metal beneath in a grid pattern.
All very good advice. I usually spray all the jets out with carb cleaner. I’m not sure why I didn’t hear. I’ve never heard of the metal grate breaking down parts before, but that makes sense. I’ll keep all of these suggestions in mind and modify how I use it in the future!
@@motohomeless9168 With the soft alloy/pot-metal Amal uses on these carbs, you want to be extra cautious with them.
great job tku🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
Glad you like it!
If your using a k&n aftermarket air filter, I'd use those plastic or i cut the metal cones that come with the carbs and they don't look perfect. Also the carbs have a L or R on them and should have a flat spot on the stud hole on the inside so they both fit tightly next to each other. Using a jis screwdriver on a British bike 😮😂
I’ve got a regular air filter. I love my JIS screwdriver! It grips better than a standard one.
@@motohomeless9168 so you have the oem stock filter? Right on
There is a special Commando ring (steel) that fits the rubber boots to use the stock air filter. See the Andover Norton parts list.
@@motohomeless9168 Actually JIS is the correct driver for the Amal screws....seen a lot where Philips have ruined the screw head. Be sure to not overtighten the float bowl screws or the carb mounting flange nuts....just get the lock washers to flatten and that's all. Too much will squash the softer carb material and deform the gasket surface and/or warp the carb body, leading to air leaks and possibly even throttle slide jamming.