Got it out using a combination of this video and a video from The Ziggy Brothers, your video is better with closeups but I liked their process more, such as starting under the truck first before you leak fluids everywhere. I believe I understand your thought process for starting with the turbo first before going under, to remove the uppipe to get better access to the bell housing bolts, but ultimately it doesn’t really matter too much what order you do it. Thank you so much for the video!
Nice! Thank you for your time. A tip for getting that 3 eared collar clamp off the Turbo. the Left Ear is the easiest as you did with the Chisel. The right ear, I used a small 1 1/2 inch slide hammer with a hook adapter (Harbor Freight), the Bottom one was just a giant PITA and I finally got it loose with a screwdriver and a lot of cussing.
I appreciate the video greatly. I swapped the engine on my 2002 100% by myself on gravel floor with harbor freight cherry picker and a piece of plywood. The worst part was fighting getting new engine mounted back to the transmission, and then fighting the stupid turbo clamps. Other than that it went extremely smooth. The only problem I have now is check gage light and says it’s hot. I’m thinking the 2002 engine had an extra temp sensor that the 2001 engine input in did not. I also had 2 solenoids on my 2002 engine. 1 had a wire running from the solenoid to the battery positive, on the 2001 engine it ran to the fender mounted solenoid. So I just ran the wire to the battery, worked so far.
I can’t express how thankful! It’s been a nightmare repairing my 02 work truck. Now it’s sure a rod Knock. Am now at 25:30 with video pulling engine step by step. I’m familiar with most. First time with 7.3.
You're welcome! I'm glad my videos help people. Granted, my steps aren't always done in the most efficient order, a lot of them in this video was kinda just in the order I thought about them, but you can definitely follow along and get it done. Since I didn't record the reinstall, you can just play the video in reverse haha.
Genuinely enjoyed your work. Was a good suppliment vs buying the manual. I did end up using it in reverse as I spread my endeaver over a much longer time than anticipated. Thanks dude.
Love the channel. Plan on buying a 7.3 Powerstroke I’ve wrenched on some and love them. Hoping to buy one I have to wrench in but not extremely bad. Thanks for the content
I did the oil pan seal very carefully. I removed 5/6 cab bolts(far rear passenger was seized) and used 2x4 blocks under the point where the cab meets the bumper. Unbolted both motor mounts and jacked that up and used 2x4 blocks in the space created. I did not drop the pan fully as the subframe was preventing me from fully cleaning. I used a moroso oil pan gasket with a steel insert. The drivers side next to engine mount is the closest set of holes for bolts. I cut in half of both and wrapped the gasket around. Used a bead of rtv at the seam and bolted it up. Never had any leaks from it because the gasket does an amazing job at sealing as long as you scrape away as much of the old epoxy as possible(it's difficult)
Wow, you are determined lol. I feel like that was more work than pulling the engine! Good job on getting it done in the truck with no leaks though! I'm genuinely impressed. You must have more patience with tedious work than I do, doing that much work in tight areas.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel well I am a marine we like to do things the hard way LOL. It was mostly because I couldn't lift the cab due to a seized bolt, did not want to snap it and lose orientation of the cab. That was the least ideal scenario but it made the most sense to me at the time. I'd 100% do it again though.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel to pull the engine you'd have to drain most of the fluids, disconnect most of the hoses and harnesses. I had a half ton cherry picker that just wasn't long enough to get a good hold on the motor and be able to drop it back in place. I'd had to have removed the front bumper and radiator which doesn't make sense to me because then you'd have to buy all new coolant, recharge AC system and risk messing up the already dry rotted wires. Once I learned the by the book procedure I thought ford was smoking crack so I used the gaskets im familiar with (moroso) and called it a day. Got the gasket dropped in in 3 hours and had it back together in 5
@@sirseven3 that's fair. Although I drained the coolant into clean buckets for reuse, and never opened the A/C system so I didn't have to recharge it. I also looked at it as a good time to do other things as well. Big thing for me though is that I don't think I'd have the patience to do the gasket surface cleaning in that tight space 🤣
Helping out a lot I don’t know shii about diesel but I just got a 2000 350 6 speed .. gots lots of blow by and white smoke out the tail pipe .. I think I’m going to pull the whole thing and go over it all .. about 3/4 of the way through your video . Good video
That works as well. I've just always got several cans of brake cleaner sitting around the shop so that's what I've always used. Rubbing alcohol may be cheaper though. That's something I'm gonna have to look into, especially these days.
Best way to take that v band clamp off from the up pipes is to unbolt it and start the truck up before you get to ripping everything out works every time never will I struggle from that clamp again
I would not personaly have ever spent my time replacing the engine in that rusty truck ... "mid west"? Or rust belt.. 😄 Are you still trying to drive that truck? Was it worth it? I have a 2000 with 335k on it, getting ready to replace the engine because of some minor blow by issues. But I got a Ford remanufactured engine out of a rust bucket in Illinois, that was a warranty replacement motor, with only 38k on it... The engines seem to outlast the trucks in the rust belt. But out here in SW Colorado, and Arizona, I have worn out the seats before I wore out the engine.. and zero rust....
I didn't replace the engine. I just pulled it to do the oil pan. It runs good and the chassis is sound, I don't really care about the body rust. I'll care when the body mount areas start getting weak from rust. I am definitely in the Midwest rust belt. I actually recorded this video around march/april of 2021, and I'm still driving the truck as of August 2022. I'm actually really close to hitting 500k, sitting at about 496k right now. I wouldn't bother replacing the engine over minor blowby. I'd definitely keep that replacement around for future use though! And yes, the engines definitely outlast the body around here.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel ... My plan is to pull the old engine, put the newer one in with the upgrades from my old one. Then build the old one back to new rings and pistons and rebuild the heads... I need to replace the low pressure oil pump anyway. And its getting a little tired from pulling big loads all its life .. But I wanted to add that I really enjoyed your video, because it included pulling the front apart, and had several things I had questions about. Thanks for recording your experience.
@@usmcmustang2972 That sounds like a good plan. Then you'll have a rebuilt spare ready to go for whenever you may need it. Thanks for the compliments. Glad the video helped. That's why I make them.
Sorry for the delayed response. Been busy. You don't have to have it at TDC. Really thr only thing that ever needs timed is the cam and crank if you have pulled either. Even the HPOP doesn't need to be timed.
You might not be able to, you may have to use a wrench. Whoever put yours on obviously screwed up and didn't think about the position and future removal. However, they got it on there, so you should be able to get it off.
@Dark Horse Auto and Diesel thankyou for the reply, we did manage to get it off with some challenge And thanks for the video! Very informative, I've never even touched a motor and I had to get this engine ready to pull alone in a 24hr period, this video saved me, keep up the good work
@@yayoinkdab5883 Thank you. That is exactly why I started making these videos. I'm glad it helped you so much. I suspect that when you put that clamp back on, you had the cerebral fortitude to put it in a position that is more easily accessible!
@Dark Horse Auto and Diesel well thankfully I didn't have to, was getting it apart for a buyer, they came and picked it up yesterday morning!! And they said I did it right so, all props to you
Since I was taking video during this one, it took probably 14-16 hours. Recording a video adds a lot of time though. If you have a solid plan laid out, and have a competent helper, it can be done far quicker. With good help, I've driven one of these trucks in the shop and had the engine on a stand in less than 12 hours, including several breaks for adult beverages.
Im not sure but I'd have to imagine so, just so you can get the engine far enough forward to clear the wiper cowl. It might be possible once you get the coolers out of the way, but I can't guarantee that. And really, for the little bit of time it takes to remove it, it's about worth it just to have the easier access to everything. You'll have to remove the hood for sure.
Shop manual calls for anywhere between 10.8 hours and 13.7 hours, depending on transmission and if it's 2wd or 4x4. That's just to remove and reinstall the engine. Tack on at least another hour for the oil pan. Realistically, a shop is probably gonna charge somewhere in the 12-15 hour range I'd guess. I'm not a "real" shop so my knowledge and resources on that aspect are somewhat limited. I just happen to have an older shop hour manual from a dealership that was given to me that I'm not 100% sure how to read haha.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel thank you for your information this will help. I've worked for toyota dealers and Lexus as a level A technician for over 10 yrs but haven't done a diesel engine swap. I was wanting to know a time frame to see if I should even consider doing this job. I done all makes and models engines before but not diesel, do you think I should be fine if I take on this job?
@@DavidEscobar-zh1qt Based on your qualifications, I'd say you'll be fine. It's not really any harder than most other modern vehicles. Being a diesel doesn't really make much difference other than weight. A fully dressed 7.3 is nearly 1,000 lbs.
Better anti corrosion additives that allow it to be run in the engine significantly longer than the standard stuff is the main advantage that I'm aware of. Supposedly its good for 10 years or 500k miles or something like that before needing any kind of maintenance. Once you hit that point they recommend adding some additive to it to replenish it. Or you could just flush it at that point.
Got it out using a combination of this video and a video from The Ziggy Brothers, your video is better with closeups but I liked their process more, such as starting under the truck first before you leak fluids everywhere. I believe I understand your thought process for starting with the turbo first before going under, to remove the uppipe to get better access to the bell housing bolts, but ultimately it doesn’t really matter too much what order you do it. Thank you so much for the video!
Nice! Thank you for your time. A tip for getting that 3 eared collar clamp off the Turbo. the Left Ear is the easiest as you did with the Chisel. The right ear, I used a small 1 1/2 inch slide hammer with a hook adapter (Harbor Freight), the Bottom one was just a giant PITA and I finally got it loose with a screwdriver and a lot of cussing.
I appreciate the video greatly. I swapped the engine on my 2002 100% by myself on gravel floor with harbor freight cherry picker and a piece of plywood. The worst part was fighting getting new engine mounted back to the transmission, and then fighting the stupid turbo clamps. Other than that it went extremely smooth. The only problem I have now is check gage light and says it’s hot. I’m thinking the 2002 engine had an extra temp sensor that the 2001 engine input in did not. I also had 2 solenoids on my 2002 engine. 1 had a wire running from the solenoid to the battery positive, on the 2001 engine it ran to the fender mounted solenoid. So I just ran the wire to the battery, worked so far.
Im doing the same on my 03. Gravel drive as well. Glad to know the plywood worked because i had the exact same idea.
I can’t express how thankful!
It’s been a nightmare repairing my 02 work truck. Now it’s sure a rod Knock. Am now at 25:30 with video pulling engine step by step.
I’m familiar with most. First time with 7.3.
You're welcome! I'm glad my videos help people. Granted, my steps aren't always done in the most efficient order, a lot of them in this video was kinda just in the order I thought about them, but you can definitely follow along and get it done.
Since I didn't record the reinstall, you can just play the video in reverse haha.
Genuinely enjoyed your work. Was a good suppliment vs buying the manual. I did end up using it in reverse as I spread my endeaver over a much longer time than anticipated. Thanks dude.
You're welcome. I'm glad it helped.
Love the channel. Plan on buying a 7.3 Powerstroke I’ve wrenched on some and love them. Hoping to buy one I have to wrench in but not extremely bad. Thanks for the content
You're welcome. Helping people is why I make these videos.
Great Video! Helped me out a lot.
Omg I'm gonna fall asleep before it even starts just go to the video
I did the oil pan seal very carefully. I removed 5/6 cab bolts(far rear passenger was seized) and used 2x4 blocks under the point where the cab meets the bumper. Unbolted both motor mounts and jacked that up and used 2x4 blocks in the space created. I did not drop the pan fully as the subframe was preventing me from fully cleaning. I used a moroso oil pan gasket with a steel insert. The drivers side next to engine mount is the closest set of holes for bolts. I cut in half of both and wrapped the gasket around. Used a bead of rtv at the seam and bolted it up. Never had any leaks from it because the gasket does an amazing job at sealing as long as you scrape away as much of the old epoxy as possible(it's difficult)
Wow, you are determined lol. I feel like that was more work than pulling the engine! Good job on getting it done in the truck with no leaks though! I'm genuinely impressed. You must have more patience with tedious work than I do, doing that much work in tight areas.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel well I am a marine we like to do things the hard way LOL. It was mostly because I couldn't lift the cab due to a seized bolt, did not want to snap it and lose orientation of the cab. That was the least ideal scenario but it made the most sense to me at the time. I'd 100% do it again though.
@@sirseven3 I have to ask, why didn't you just pull the engine?
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel to pull the engine you'd have to drain most of the fluids, disconnect most of the hoses and harnesses. I had a half ton cherry picker that just wasn't long enough to get a good hold on the motor and be able to drop it back in place. I'd had to have removed the front bumper and radiator which doesn't make sense to me because then you'd have to buy all new coolant, recharge AC system and risk messing up the already dry rotted wires. Once I learned the by the book procedure I thought ford was smoking crack so I used the gaskets im familiar with (moroso) and called it a day. Got the gasket dropped in in 3 hours and had it back together in 5
@@sirseven3 that's fair. Although I drained the coolant into clean buckets for reuse, and never opened the A/C system so I didn't have to recharge it. I also looked at it as a good time to do other things as well. Big thing for me though is that I don't think I'd have the patience to do the gasket surface cleaning in that tight space 🤣
Thank you for this video, now Im confident to try replacing my engine
Helping out a lot I don’t know shii about diesel but I just got a 2000 350 6 speed .. gots lots of blow by and white smoke out the tail pipe .. I think I’m going to pull the whole thing and go over it all .. about 3/4 of the way through your video . Good video
Thank you. Helping people is the main reason I make these videos.
UTI tech school told us to use rubbing alcohol to clean surfaces.
That works as well. I've just always got several cans of brake cleaner sitting around the shop so that's what I've always used. Rubbing alcohol may be cheaper though. That's something I'm gonna have to look into, especially these days.
Best way to take that v band clamp off from the up pipes is to unbolt it and start the truck up before you get to ripping everything out works every time never will I struggle from that clamp again
I would not personaly have ever spent my time replacing the engine in that rusty truck ... "mid west"? Or rust belt.. 😄 Are you still trying to drive that truck? Was it worth it? I have a 2000 with 335k on it, getting ready to replace the engine because of some minor blow by issues. But I got a Ford remanufactured engine out of a rust bucket in Illinois, that was a warranty replacement motor, with only 38k on it... The engines seem to outlast the trucks in the rust belt. But out here in SW Colorado, and Arizona, I have worn out the seats before I wore out the engine.. and zero rust....
I didn't replace the engine. I just pulled it to do the oil pan. It runs good and the chassis is sound, I don't really care about the body rust. I'll care when the body mount areas start getting weak from rust. I am definitely in the Midwest rust belt. I actually recorded this video around march/april of 2021, and I'm still driving the truck as of August 2022. I'm actually really close to hitting 500k, sitting at about 496k right now.
I wouldn't bother replacing the engine over minor blowby. I'd definitely keep that replacement around for future use though!
And yes, the engines definitely outlast the body around here.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel ... My plan is to pull the old engine, put the newer one in with the upgrades from my old one. Then build the old one back to new rings and pistons and rebuild the heads... I need to replace the low pressure oil pump anyway. And its getting a little tired from pulling big loads all its life .. But I wanted to add that I really enjoyed your video, because it included pulling the front apart, and had several things I had questions about. Thanks for recording your experience.
@@usmcmustang2972 That sounds like a good plan. Then you'll have a rebuilt spare ready to go for whenever you may need it.
Thanks for the compliments. Glad the video helped. That's why I make them.
Excellent
Thank you.
Thank you for you time.
You're welcome
Good video. Do You have to have new engine at top dead center. I have aligned the 2 dots on lpop but not sure bout tdc?
Sorry for the delayed response. Been busy. You don't have to have it at TDC. Really thr only thing that ever needs timed is the cam and crank if you have pulled either. Even the HPOP doesn't need to be timed.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel Thanks for the response.
great video. new sub for sure
Thanks for the compliment and the support of my channel!
Thank you
You're welcome.
29:50 that collar for me is rotated vertically against the firewall, how am I meant to get to it with a rachet??
You might not be able to, you may have to use a wrench. Whoever put yours on obviously screwed up and didn't think about the position and future removal. However, they got it on there, so you should be able to get it off.
@Dark Horse Auto and Diesel thankyou for the reply, we did manage to get it off with some challenge
And thanks for the video! Very informative, I've never even touched a motor and I had to get this engine ready to pull alone in a 24hr period, this video saved me, keep up the good work
@@yayoinkdab5883 Thank you. That is exactly why I started making these videos. I'm glad it helped you so much.
I suspect that when you put that clamp back on, you had the cerebral fortitude to put it in a position that is more easily accessible!
@Dark Horse Auto and Diesel well thankfully I didn't have to, was getting it apart for a buyer, they came and picked it up yesterday morning!! And they said I did it right so, all props to you
Are you in Minnesota by chance ?
That depends on why you ask 🤣
How long did it take you to get everything unhooked and engine removed?
Since I was taking video during this one, it took probably 14-16 hours. Recording a video adds a lot of time though. If you have a solid plan laid out, and have a competent helper, it can be done far quicker. With good help, I've driven one of these trucks in the shop and had the engine on a stand in less than 12 hours, including several breaks for adult beverages.
If I have a A-frame do I need to take front clip off still to pull engine out of my 01 7.3?
Im not sure but I'd have to imagine so, just so you can get the engine far enough forward to clear the wiper cowl. It might be possible once you get the coolers out of the way, but I can't guarantee that. And really, for the little bit of time it takes to remove it, it's about worth it just to have the easier access to everything.
You'll have to remove the hood for sure.
How many hrs of labors would this cost me? Or how many hrs of labor does it call for by spec?
Shop manual calls for anywhere between 10.8 hours and 13.7 hours, depending on transmission and if it's 2wd or 4x4. That's just to remove and reinstall the engine. Tack on at least another hour for the oil pan. Realistically, a shop is probably gonna charge somewhere in the 12-15 hour range I'd guess. I'm not a "real" shop so my knowledge and resources on that aspect are somewhat limited. I just happen to have an older shop hour manual from a dealership that was given to me that I'm not 100% sure how to read haha.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel thank you for your information this will help. I've worked for toyota dealers and Lexus as a level A technician for over 10 yrs but haven't done a diesel engine swap. I was wanting to know a time frame to see if I should even consider doing this job. I done all makes and models engines before but not diesel, do you think I should be fine if I take on this job?
@@DavidEscobar-zh1qt Based on your qualifications, I'd say you'll be fine. It's not really any harder than most other modern vehicles. Being a diesel doesn't really make much difference other than weight. A fully dressed 7.3 is nearly 1,000 lbs.
Video really helped🙏
I'm glad it helped. That's why I make these videos.
New comment, you do any work with 6.0L powerstrokes?
Not really. I don't need that much work haha
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel 😂 fair enough fair enough
Also why I stay even further from 6.4s!
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel true true those are just money pits, mechanic shops love 6.4 owners🤣
@@yayoinkdab5883 Yes they are! Throw away motors.
Do I have to remove the front clip if I have a A-frame engine hoist or can I just remove everything
How did that turn out for you?
I'm curious as well.
Why does your truck have red coolant, my 00 7.3l is green
I use Rotella ELC coolant in my diesels, which is red.
Is there any advantage to using that over the standard green coolant
Better anti corrosion additives that allow it to be run in the engine significantly longer than the standard stuff is the main advantage that I'm aware of. Supposedly its good for 10 years or 500k miles or something like that before needing any kind of maintenance. Once you hit that point they recommend adding some additive to it to replenish it. Or you could just flush it at that point.
Man what's up with these damn oil pans I always see them getting replaced 😒 I just got an E-350 with a 7.3 and guess what fkn pan is smashed 😑 wtf
The joys of cheap stamped steel with no corrosion protection besides cheap paint and the effects of salt and time on that stuff.
Ga truck. No rust so it’s not as bad of a project I’ve seen others be.