Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels. At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more. Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on RUclips) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job. Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀 And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ruclips.net/p/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy- ☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info ⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐ ☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark ☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE ⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐ ☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com 🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒 - - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - - ☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available) 🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo 🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6 🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U 🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx 🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj 🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH ☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools 🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander 🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper 🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife 🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq 🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement ☑ Miscellaneous Tools 🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder 🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase ☑ Miscellaneous supplies 🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
@@brucewilliamsstudio4932 hey thanks. I’m still fighting health crap all the time. The latest is the VA got me in for an epidural for my back pain and that actually made it worse so now I barely sleep at all and I’m in bad pain 24 seven but in a couple weeks they are going to burn the nerves in my back and hopefully that solves it. so I’ve been trying to do some small drywall jobs to try and get ahead. And I can but it does kick my butt pretty good.
I'm one of the guys most people dislike....I'm the guy that sprayed on the popcorn ceiling 35 years ago....that's what I did for a living. I'm now helping my son redo his ceilings and learning about knockdown, found your video and you pretty much cover all the bases. The bit about painted or unpainted ceilings and how the moisture is wicked away is gold....Thanks for making a vid that explains all the variables.
I'm starting my fourth whole house remodel, a century old, two-story farmhouse. This video gives me hope that I may be able to do the texturing myself, which will save me thousands. Thanks for another great instructional video.
I’m an older guy who’s been in construction and remodeling for many years. I have always enjoyed watching your videos and have definitely picked up some additional skills by doing so. Keep up the good work!
I have been using your techniques while redoing a 1980’s bedroom. So far everything has worked well. Had some issues with removing the popcorn ceiling due to numerous coats of paint. Thank you for sharing your expertise and guidance. Very much appreciate.
I'm a electrical contractor, I have to open drywall all the time to install new branch circuits for everything, now have I drywall and texture boy this video is very helpful
Good morning sir, I am a rank a$$ armature DYI guy and your channel has allowed me to do drywall work that I would have otherwise never attempted. I really appreciate that. I have recently repaired some major drywall damage around my hot water heater (located in my garage) due to a sudden leak. I did not have that cool primer for torn paper that I have seen you use before, but I did use spray Shellac. I used 20 minute mud to repair the worst areas, then 90 minute to float the areas into a flat surface. Additionally, I replaced the rusted metal corner beads, with a stiff cardboard style product. After that was complete, I applied a few skim coats of USG General purpose and touched up small defects with a 6" knife with more GP mud. The overall results is actually astounding, but it did take me several weeks to do it. I don't know how to upload pictures otherwise I would have added them to the message? Now I'm ready to blow some thinned down GP mud (orange peel texture) over the repairs (about 25 square feet) and then blend the texture into the exiting undamaged areas using a marshalltown 2.1 gun. My question(s) are: a. Should I prime the repaired skim coated areas overlapping into the existing textured areas? b If so, should I use PVA drywall primer or another primer product, since I plan to paint over the new and existing texture sometime later? Thank you sir, Mark Nicholson Former, US Army - EFMB, Combat Medical Specialist 1/94 FA MLRS
First of all thank you for your service to our country, and I appreciate your comment. I’m glad I’ve been able to help you and if you want to send me pictures I sometimes feature them in various locations and email will be at the bottom of this message. Whenever I do a repair over an existing wall I don’t take the time to prime it as it just slows me down but it can add more consistency to your finish when you’re a novice. If you do prime it do you want to use something like Zinnser Bullseye 123 because it has a better bond to existing paint than PVA. Thanks, Guy Purcella, USAF Electronic Warfare Tech, 84-91 ThatKiltedGuy15@gmail.com
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thank you for the quick and complete reply. I'm off to the box store to get some Zinnser now. After I complete this repair (probably another week), I'll be sure to email you a few pics to illustrate what a regular soldier like me can accomplish, when provided experienced, competent and professional advice by guys like you. BTW, I spent most of my military service (1982 - 1987) in medical school (Ft. Sam Huston -Academy of Health Sciences), West Germany near the Czechoslovakian & East German boarders and ending at Ft. Benning GA working at Phase #1, US Army Ranger training facility. Thank you for your service. My Dad was a 20 year Airforce NCO, Control tower - Transit Alert Specialist.
I've been a painter for 44 years now trained at Baylor college of Medicine, My Dad was my formen. You Sir have awesome technique, My Dad when he did a knock down always used a spray shield cut like the big blade you used lol that wasn't around in the 80s when I was an apprentice . If he were alive today and watched you I think he WOULD have smiled and said your a skilled Tradesmen like us .trained in all things painted stripped lacquered and refinished .Keep making videos Sir your Good . Your skill with the trigger equals mine men like us are rare now .
This is very helpful, I've been drywalling and painting for 22 years now and always wanna learn more and your techniques are exactly correct and I greatly appreciate your expertise and time, thank you so much. Sincerely Lorenzo gig harbor WA.
Wow! Thanks, much for your lesson! My practice session with the sprayer took about five minutes for a perfect pattern, plus another 20-minutes for drying time sufficient for a knockdown. The results were excellent because I already had the sprayer settings based on your recommendations for a heavy pattern. I launched the bathroom project and completed the spraying work in just a few minutes. My observations for others' benefit: 1) Don't start the mud mix with too much water. (I ended up mixing enough texture to do a large bedroom.) 2) If you practice in the garage and the project is indoors with less ventilation, you'll need to be patient with the knockdown's waiting duration time. 3) Budget your time with plenty left over for cleanup. Speed it up with dish soap and a sponge. Thanks again!
Hey I’m so glad I helped you out. And that is some good additional advice. If you want to lessen the waiting time to knock the mud down you can raise the heat and increase the airflow with a ceiling fan. But you don’t wanna put your fan directly at it unless it’s one small spot. And a garden hose and a spray nozzle works great for spraying them clean. That’s if you can do it outside in your yard or someplace like that.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I have a hundred acres behind the house and a long hose, so the texture dump wasn't a problem. If I can find jus the right link, I can send you the money I saved by doing this job myself. God Bless you and your wife. Y'all will be in my prayers. I don't pray often, but I am earnest when I do. Please stay in touch. God Bless! (If you want to send me the link and save me the search, send it to robert.m.blake.jr@gmail.com)
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Good stuff. It just crossed my tiny mind that a hairdryer might be useful for those big knots that want to smear when I'm dragging the tool. Man! I need to find another wall to do!
This was very helpful. I have an upcoming job that wants medium knockdown, which I have never attempted before. After watching this, I am more confident in doing it. I plan on doing quite a few tests at my place before putting it on a customers wall for a first time though. I really appreciate you taking time and showing people things like this.
Jimmer, I honestly love hearing stories like this. I truly enjoy helping others learn how to do these things on their own so thank you for allowing me to help and stay in touch, ok?
My refresher course... Just now ready to start texture on my major remodel. 5 rooms 2 closets a little over a thousand sq. ft. I done quite a bit of tape and bedding and sheet rock repair through the years, but it's always good for me to mentally prepare because of the years between projects. Also because this is an older home and a major remodel...It is a chore to match new with old. But I really do like the challenge. These kind of videos are priceless , this work if I had had to hire it done would have cost me in excess of 25k . I'm talking about hanging the sheet rock, tape, bed , texture and painting. I live in a remote area and contractors can really name their price because out of dozen contractors I'm lucky to have any return calls. 4 hours of electrical work cost me 750. 5 hours plumbing cost a thousand, 1 man working on each. I supplied all the parts.
I'm an okay taper but don't have enough patience to make perfectly smooth joints. Doing a medium to heavy knockdown, I can hide my imperfections. Uses a bit more primer covering the texture, but happy I can do the project myself. Hello from Esko, Minnesota. Russ
THANK YOU GUY! Just a note to say Thank you so much for all of these awesome videos! I wanted to let you know that i successfully replaced a sheet and a half of drywall myself. I purchased all of the materials that you suggested from your store. I already had a hopper and air compressor and had previous attempts in the past but failed, due to not having the knowledge in the videos. I mixed up the mud and made an attempt at knock-down on a couple of pieces of drywall from the garage. After spraying the mud I let it set up for a few minutes, approximately 7 - 9 minutes. One piece I used more air and one I used the minimum setting. I used the 12" flexible plastic piece to knock the mud down and WOW, it looked perfect. So, I carried that knowledge onto the drywall that I had taped and floated, also following your guidance. It all worked out perfectly! My wife and brother could not believe that I had done that myself and they were both SUPER IMPRESSED. I truly feel free now, knowing that I understand the process and that you provided me the tools to get the job done right. As a result, I now have the freedom and confidence in knowing that I can do this without having to spend hundreds to thousands of dollars for very minor drywall jobs.
Love the Technicality put into these videos, all other in the net are just mix, load and shoot. The grey board is great, shows up the textures well. Thanks Brother!
I've been waiting for my brother in law to come help with with a knockdown texture, but I feel like after watching this, I could probably do it myself! Very detailed and lays out everything I need! Thank YOU!
Check out this video too- KnockDown Texture Repair Sponge that cost $2.00. NO WAY? Yes Way, and it works well. ruclips.net/video/K_J2ANqeyBs/видео.html
Thanks again for doing this video. I used it to help me a few years back and now needing to do some more came right back for this great help. You are awesome and as I believe you are a Veteran thank you for your service.
This old Navy guy is very much appreciative of the care you take to explain the process. I've got whole house I need to texture(a horrible smooth wall finish), and this looks just like what I need to do. Thank you so much!
@@martyepperly5803 anytime I apply mud over a painted surface I sand it with 80 grit to remove some sheen and leave scratches, ie tooth, for the mud to bite onto. You can also add a tablespoon or two of woodglue to a bucket of mud for better adhesion.
i have 40 years in finishing and general trade, hands on, I learned a lot from this video...it is clear, clean and concise instruction...no wonder you have had so many likes, keep up the real work...really dig your style and methodical instruction...I will use this on my current 2700 sf interior repaint project, tons of repairs and matching knockdown... Kilts must be comfortable as hell, but maybe not for high ladder work? tucson usa
Thank you, I truly appreciate that. Well, I figure, if someone walks beneath me on a high ladder and looks up, they must want to see something.... but it's only happened once, and she stood there quite awhile which was funny to me.
Mr. Guy Purcella, a big thank you for sharing your knowledge that you've acquired over a lifetime. You are a gifted teacher and help me make sense of what I'm doing and how to remedy my mistakes and problems. I appreciate also your overview of the tools you find suitable and recommendable, and the links you provide for purchasing. Best wishes to you as you fight yours and your wife's health issues. I have contributed to your gofundme page as a way to say thank you for saving me money on my projects, and I hope that many others who view your videos do so as well as a way to express their gratitude.
It's all about timing. I would only strike once. I would say always go heavy and and give it 15 to 20 minutes. You want your big glops to be about 6" apart because when they get knocked down they will be closer. If you aim for this you will end up with 1" probably. Use your big plastic knife first then work your 6" or 12" on the light fixture areas and stuff. Less is more. Sometimes you need to walk away and wait. If you run your mud through a brand new paint screen you should barley be able to squeeze it through for lace knockdown. Orange peel should look like a thick duck web on your hands and be strained with the paint screen. Double that thickness for knockdown.
this is the best knockdown tutorial for DIYer......i bought that sprayer but i did not use it because i dont know how to adjust it.....now i can put it to use...i sub
The medium came out perfect what an awesome job by professional drywaller I prefer medium to heavy gives it more character the light sample doesn't show up enough in my opinion
My spray down didn’t knock down. Your video showed me why. I will buy more spreadrock and follow your teaching. Thank you. I thought it was all in the wrist but I see it only works in tennis. Thanks again. Air and squeezed, simple.
Excellent tutorial. I caught your video by accident, and not needing to do a knock down job presently. I had to watch the video to completion because your great personality comes through and relaxes me making for a better day!! Thank you for who you are.
Thanks for creating this video. Very helpful. I was worried about spraying texture in a room I am remodeling but much more confident now. Thanks for serving and defending our country. God Bless!
Just wanted to follow up on how project went. The project included framing, hanging 6 sheets of sheet rock, taping, and texturing. I watched many of your videos and purchased and used several of the tools you recommended to include the small hopper and large plastic knockdown knife. By using all your techniques and tricks the results were amazing. I was able to match the small knockdown texture perfectly. Thanks for taking the time to help a rookie like me get a great result!
I removed the old speakers set in the ceiling, repaired the hole and now going to give my best to repair the knock down. I am sure your coaching will now give me what it will take. Thanks again.
i watched your video. I sprayed it out and it came out perfect. The only thing I did wrong was when I blended into the painted area and you were right about it taking longer to dry. The other areas were ready for me to use the knockdown blade but the painted area took all day to dry where I could do the knockdown . I accidentally made one painted area smooth as it wasn't ready..I will try your sponge tear out to dress it up before I paint it. Thanks again. I was amazed how my first job turned out. Your in depth video helped me figure out what I was doing wrong and can make the corrections. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. Excellent information and demonstration. I’m doing some repairs on my knockdown ceilings and walls and while I was experimenting and getting close I still wasn’t there yet. After watching the video and getting your tips I got it dialed in. Save me tons of time. Who knows if I would have ever got it right.
Best knockdown video I've seen. I've tried a couple times to texture my ceiling where there were cracks and I fixed the cracks. Both times it came out ugly, so obvious a patch, with a sponge and a metal knife. I'm going to try with this hopper (I already have a compressor) and that big plastic knife.
Just the answers I was looking for with thorough explanations. I had already gotten used to using the same version of the small hopper gun from homart. The 3 different knockdowns you demonstrated was what I was missing. Remodeling to sell and will be back for more I'm sure, when I get my new/used place. I really appreciate you painting the board green so I could see the amount of material you were spraying and the size of the drops.
Richard, glad I could help. I try to make it clear 🤓 for everyone, and although it takes more work, I want to make it as easy to see as possible, so I'm glad it helped. Thanks, Guy
Hi I found the crow for foot texture vido very helpful it showed a way that i think any home owner or small repair guy can install a textured ceiling with tools you may all ready own. I was very pleased and learned new skills.
Excellent and thorough demonstration for those who are seeking DIY information. Many people show using professional floor hoppers that most people will never have access to. Thank you for sharing. I have always used a Kobalt hopper that is almost identical to the larger one you showed. It can get heavy but other than that is a great tool. I personally prefer baby butt smooth class 5 drywall but the two of the bedroom walls of the house we own now were textured, however they did not knock it down and it was horribly rough. We scraped them and are retexturing over them. They also only did two of the four walls. There was wall paper on all walls at one time and I have a feeling that whomever installed the wall paper didn’t prime the walls with wall paper primer. Then when they went to remove it, the two of the walls were badly damaged. Why they didn’t texture all four walls I have no ides? We are doing all four walls and going to try to make them as close as possible to each other. We are priming all of the walls prior to spraying with texture. It has been about 13 years since I textured a wall and just wanted a refresher course. You have given me exactly what I was looking for and after having watched about 10 videos I knew within 10 seconds after starting yours I had found the one I needed. Thank you for being willing to share and teach others your skill set. Many people have no inclination to pass knowledge along. I have always shared freely with anyone willing to learn and greatly appreciate anyone else willing to do the same. Blessings to you Sir.
Thanks for the tips ! if you want to get the texture out of the can texture, after you use it run the nozzle under water, it will clean out mud and let you continue to use up can until empty !
that makes a big difference. Here’s another canned texture tip. If you go to spray and it’s coming out to coarsely with not enough pressure, run it under hot water for a couple of minutes and try again, and repeat until the pressure is right.
Hey Brian, thank you for the kind comment and I truly appreciate Your friendship and for you being part of my channel. I really enjoy helping everyone learn these skills. This one was pretty intense to edit and it took me over eight hours just to edit it. Shooting it was much easier, LOL. But in time, I believe it will become my full-time business and make it worth all the effort financially as well as knowing how I’m helping everyone. Thanks again 😎✌🏽💪🏽🦶🏼
I NEED YOUR INPUT. What subjects would you like to see me cover on my channel? Be specific if you can like, 'Fixing a dent in a wall' or 'how to choose a drywall joint compound' etc. Comment below and I'll see it. Thanks! 😎👣
I come across popcorn ceilings that are so heavily painted that I'm not able to completely scrape it off, can only get the nubs off, and have needed to skim it a few times to get it smooth. How do you recommend dealing with that?
TY I learned several things here. That said, a little more info that I thought you'd certainly mention in this video. The nozzle size and air pressure you used in this video. Also, I've watched several other vids where the guys used appearance as their gauge as to when to knockdown. They state to wait until just after the glossy look is gone (20+/- minutes depending on the variables involved).
VICTOR EOUS good questions. I pretty much always use the same air pressure if 35 psi because the airflow, (cfm), is more important. And I almost always use the medium tip. I use the fine tip for really fine texture and rarely use the large tip as i don’t like globby texture you get with that. Thanks for asking.
Choosing materials (quality availability, etc)and/or material choices (different types of same material (all choices in thinset for example) and applications (pressure treated vs ?)
Thank you so much for your videos, I have watched several of them, sometimes several times, to get tips and tricks to help me on my renovation journey. You have helped me immensely, and have been able to find the answers to all my questions with ease. Thanks to you, I am now confident that I can accomplish my goals successfully. You're a Godsend! Thank you for your tutorials and your service, both for our homes and our country!
Thanks for the great tips! Word of advice to diyers. Make sure you have tightened the nut. Funniest thing I've ever seen, is when it came apart and dumped almost a full hopper on my drywaller's head when he started spraying the ceiling. I had to step outside cause I started laughing hysterically and in the moment he wasn't, but later he could laugh about it. I still laugh every time I remember that day and hopefully he does too! 😂
I have the same hopper. I haven't used it yet because of the price and the air valve. Watching this shows it wont be that bad and how to set it up. Thanks again.👍
8:07 pancake batter….the go to for explaining. So here’s I describe thinner “batter” for ppl learning. Want thinner mix, tell someone to microwave peanut butter or better yet HONEY in micro for 10-30 seconds, than pour into another cup…. For peanut butter nuke it but for 30-45 secs on 90% power (1000w micro) and gets you an idea of what “batter” looking for😉 If you actually do this, please use the amount of 1/2 to 1 cup to give you a good example as anything more than that….times/power be diff. I also highly RECOMMEND that ya do this, so get an idea of what consistency actually is😁
Buddy- Your videos are just what the doctor ordered. Thanks for putting so much effort into helping people like myself. I am getting ready to knockdown the first of 3 bedrooms in my home. We watched your how to fix wall paper spots and the leveling of the brown paper. That's currently where I am. I will skim coat the walls after the 30 or so patches are complete. (90% of my 1980's home was covered with wall paper....fun!) I'm just assuming here but I'm going to want to shoot all walls in each room first then come back to knock them down correct? I saw a mess where some folks had some issues with the mud setting up too quickly and their job wasn't very adequate. Thanks for everything!
NO, don't do that. With a hopper I only spray maybe 100 Sq Ft, and then knock it down, or it will set up to quick and you'll have a mess. Watch my video from this point- ruclips.net/video/eKkDBGHCbJo/видео.html And watch this video of me actually spraying a large area- ruclips.net/video/0fUkW3SCYiE/видео.html Jeremy Hydle, if I helped you save money on your project, or you just want to show your appreciation for my help, please consider joining our RUclips membership for as low as $2.00 a month. Your support means the world to me and will help ensure we keep putting out more, and better content to help you. Plus you'll get a special badge next to your name in comments, bonus and early release content, and more. You can join here- ruclips.net/channel/UCSinsqowcKxmSaKkx3W9_0wjoin You can also join our Patreon FAN Page for as little as $3.00 a month, flat rate. You'll get bonus content, special markers in comments telling me your subscribed, etc. You can do so at: www.patreon.com/ThatKiltedGuy Thanks for all your support!
Great Video! Just finished drywalling a Playhouse- Yes a Playhouse for a family member and they want a knock down texture on the walls and ceiling. It has a vaulted ceiling and it is 8X12 ft with several windows, a door and a wall mount heat and a/c unit in the back wall so, I'm thinking I should be able to texture the whole thing and then do the knock down since it is primered with a quality name brand primer already that will slow the drying process and it is quite humid here from all the rain we have had. And he has a texture gun like yours which I have never used one before like that. Thumbs up and Thanks for the details.
I would advise practicing on some scrap first, or a small section of the job and just scrape it off after your done. But this video and my spraying variable should definitely give you a good job. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you for the video that EXPLAINS the things that affect the pattern. I am slightly less terrified now - since my husband swears he is too heavy handed to do it. Now I need to go through your other videos. I stumbled on this one. Amazon items are in the wish list for now until we get the wood ceiling done.
I wish I had watched this video before we bought 4 cans of spray texture. We watched a couple of your videos about how to take off the popcorn (we are redoing our bathrooms) and it worked perfectly and we used the Krud Kutter and it came off in sheets. My husband only has 1 day a week off so we knew it would be slow going since we have 3 bathrooms and are installing new vanities, painting, installing new flooring in 2 of the bathrooms and decided to try and take off the popcorn and then knockdown texture the ceilings. The bathrooms are small and we thought if it goes well, maybe we could tackle the popcorn in the rest of our 3 story, 3500 sq ft fixer upper. LOL! Well he got so upset trying to use the canned spray texture (it was just oozing out the front and not even making it to the ceiling) that he was ready to throw in the towel, which really isn't like him, so I said let me see if I can find a video from that kilted guy. And I did and I love the 1st thing you say is "you should NOT waste your money on Spray Can Texture." So thanks again! We have renewed hope that we can accomplish this because of your videos. We are even going to order some items from your link below. :)
really glad I could help. Here’s a little tip though. When you use spray can texture and it doesn’t want to spray hard enough, heat it up under hot water until it does. The hot water will increase the pressure in the can and get it to spray. But I still hate the stuff, LOL
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I tried the spray can on a cardboard box. I used about half of the can, then calculated the cost of doing my wall project. It didn't take long to figure out that I could buy the sprayer and a box of mud powder, borrow a compressor, and still save over $100. The spray can is expensive and the results are terrible. The hint on heating up the can is useful if I need to use the can for a patch somewhere. Thanks!
Very useful video. Especially, the explanation of how to get the medium, heavy by adjusting the trigger pull and airflow among other things. Going to do a texture for the first time. I Have confidence after watching this video. Thank you !!!
I usually do the stomp knockdown for a little more patterns to hide ugly spots on the ceiling, I've never done walls, I'm not a big fan of textured walls
2 questions, please. First what size air compressor do I need with the hopper? We have a small 2 gallon compressor that I hope to be able to use. Second, we are remodeling a mobile home and taking those strips off, and then tape and bedding the seams. Do we need a special mud for the vinyl wall paper?
Hi, I'm remodeling my home putting in new windows and also a new ceiling in my kitchen. My question is, should I put a primer and paint first than the knockdown spray or put the knockdown spray on first and then primer and paint. Thank you.
Well like think the texture manufacturers actually do call for priming first and I think that would give you a more even hold out, especially when doing enough a knockdown texture. But honestly, I’ve never seen it done on new construction. I do think it’s a good idea, especially for novices as it will make the texture knockdown more evenly.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thank you so much for your reply, I really appreciate it. I also appreciate your videos it's very thoughtful of you for doing this for everyone.
Thanks William. Honestly, I've done this for 30+ years and I was ready to move onto something else, and when I discovered I could pass on my knowledge to others on RUclips, and one day make a living at it, I loved it. I love helping others learn. I often teach my customers things on the job from fixing minor plumbing issues, to adjusting the door closing rate on storm doors, to how to paint the repairs I do after I leave. So this is a perfect fit for me. Just can't wait until I can do this full time, especially since the vertigo has forced me to decline a lot of jobs these days. But honestly, I love doing these RUclips videos, as long as it can pay my bills one day. I often spend 2 days putting out one video and editing can take 8-10 hours of that. So thanks for your kind reply, and for being part of my community, I truly appreciate it.
If you prime the taped and floated wall before texturing I think you will need to prime twice. Once before texture, and then again afterwards...and before painting. Paint manufacturer's, as well as most paint channels I've watched say that to get get the best paint finish, you should always prime raw drywall. The mud and paper absorb paint differently. That would mean the work would cost more. As Kilted Guy says, and in all new construction I've ever seen, home builders never prime before applying texture. That said, I'm just a fellow DIY'ER, not a pro.
I know you mentioned paint and raw drywall have a different setup time for HEAVY knock down. Can you give me an idea of how long to wait for raw drywall and for painted drywall? My bathroom project involves both types merging and I will use the "less glossy look" technique you spoke of as well. I just want an idea for reference. Thank you and thanks for the great videos!!!!!!!!
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Guy, I hope you are keeping well my friend. We haven't chatted in awhile, but I think of you often. Keep the faith brother!
@@brucewilliamsstudio4932 hey thanks. I’m still fighting health crap all the time. The latest is the VA got me in for an epidural for my back pain and that actually made it worse so now I barely sleep at all and I’m in bad pain 24 seven but in a couple weeks they are going to burn the nerves in my back and hopefully that solves it. so I’ve been trying to do some small drywall jobs to try and get ahead. And I can but it does kick my butt pretty good.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I'll email you Guy.
I'm one of the guys most people dislike....I'm the guy that sprayed on the popcorn ceiling 35 years ago....that's what I did for a living. I'm now helping my son redo his ceilings and learning about knockdown, found your video and you pretty much cover all the bases. The bit about painted or unpainted ceilings and how the moisture is wicked away is gold....Thanks for making a vid that explains all the variables.
Thanks. I also sprayed the popcorn in the 70s. Glad i could help.
@@sstocker31 so you did a crappy job for a living
What a shame
I’m one of the guys who has removed a lot of it! Lol
I'm starting my fourth whole house remodel, a century old, two-story farmhouse. This video gives me hope that I may be able to do the texturing myself, which will save me thousands. Thanks for another great instructional video.
I’m an older guy who’s been in construction and remodeling for many years. I have always enjoyed watching your videos and have definitely picked up some additional skills by doing so. Keep up the good work!
I have been using your techniques while redoing a 1980’s bedroom. So far everything has worked well. Had some issues with removing the popcorn ceiling due to numerous coats of paint. Thank you for sharing your expertise and guidance. Very much appreciate.
I'm a electrical contractor, I have to open drywall all the time to install new branch circuits for everything, now have I drywall and texture boy this video is very helpful
Good morning sir, I am a rank a$$ armature DYI guy and your channel has allowed me to do drywall work that I would have otherwise never attempted. I really appreciate that.
I have recently repaired some major drywall damage around my hot water heater (located in my garage) due to a sudden leak. I did not have that cool primer for torn paper that I have seen you use before, but I did use spray Shellac. I used 20 minute mud to repair the worst areas, then 90 minute to float the areas into a flat surface. Additionally, I replaced the rusted metal corner beads, with a stiff cardboard style product. After that was complete, I applied a few skim coats of USG General purpose and touched up small defects with a 6" knife with more GP mud. The overall results is actually astounding, but it did take me several weeks to do it. I don't know how to upload pictures otherwise I would have added them to the message?
Now I'm ready to blow some thinned down GP mud (orange peel texture) over the repairs (about 25 square feet) and then blend the texture into the exiting undamaged areas using a marshalltown 2.1 gun.
My question(s) are:
a. Should I prime the repaired skim coated areas overlapping into the existing textured areas?
b If so, should I use PVA drywall primer or another primer product, since I plan to paint over the new and existing texture sometime later?
Thank you sir,
Mark Nicholson
Former, US Army - EFMB,
Combat Medical Specialist
1/94 FA MLRS
First of all thank you for your service to our country, and I appreciate your comment. I’m glad I’ve been able to help you and if you want to send me pictures I sometimes feature them in various locations and email will be at the bottom of this message. Whenever I do a repair over an existing wall I don’t take the time to prime it as it just slows me down but it can add more consistency to your finish when you’re a novice. If you do prime it do you want to use something like Zinnser Bullseye 123 because it has a better bond to existing paint than PVA.
Thanks, Guy Purcella, USAF Electronic Warfare Tech, 84-91
ThatKiltedGuy15@gmail.com
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thank you for the quick and complete reply. I'm off to the box store to get some Zinnser now. After I complete this repair (probably another week), I'll be sure to email you a few pics to illustrate what a regular soldier like me can accomplish, when provided experienced, competent and professional advice by guys like you.
BTW, I spent most of my military service (1982 - 1987) in medical school (Ft. Sam Huston -Academy of Health Sciences), West Germany near the Czechoslovakian & East German boarders and ending at Ft. Benning GA working at Phase #1, US Army Ranger training facility. Thank you for your service. My Dad was a 20 year Airforce NCO, Control tower - Transit Alert Specialist.
That’s awesome. My dad was actually a marine for several years but I don’t know much of his history just some of his funny stories as an MP
I like that you painted the drywall so we can see the texture. Very helpful.
Glad you like it!
I've been a painter for 44 years now trained at Baylor college of Medicine, My Dad was my formen. You Sir have awesome technique, My Dad when he did a knock down always
used a spray shield cut like the big blade you used lol that wasn't around in the 80s when I was an apprentice . If he were alive today and watched you I think he WOULD have smiled and said your a skilled Tradesmen like us .trained in all things painted stripped lacquered and refinished .Keep making videos Sir your Good . Your skill with the trigger equals mine men like us are rare now .
Thank you so much. I have worked on perfecting my technique for 35+ years.
This is very helpful, I've been drywalling and painting for 22 years now and always wanna learn more and your techniques are exactly correct and I greatly appreciate your expertise and time, thank you so much. Sincerely Lorenzo gig harbor WA.
Wow! Thanks, much for your lesson! My practice session with the sprayer took about five minutes for a perfect pattern, plus another 20-minutes for drying time sufficient for a knockdown. The results were excellent because I already had the sprayer settings based on your recommendations for a heavy pattern. I launched the bathroom project and completed the spraying work in just a few minutes. My observations for others' benefit: 1) Don't start the mud mix with too much water. (I ended up mixing enough texture to do a large bedroom.) 2) If you practice in the garage and the project is indoors with less ventilation, you'll need to be patient with the knockdown's waiting duration time.
3) Budget your time with plenty left over for cleanup. Speed it up with dish soap and a sponge. Thanks again!
Hey I’m so glad I helped you out. And that is some good additional advice. If you want to lessen the waiting time to knock the mud down you can raise the heat and increase the airflow with a ceiling fan. But you don’t wanna put your fan directly at it unless it’s one small spot. And a garden hose and a spray nozzle works great for spraying them clean. That’s if you can do it outside in your yard or someplace like that.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I have a hundred acres behind the house and a long hose, so the texture dump wasn't a problem.
If I can find jus the right link, I can send you the money I saved by doing this job myself. God Bless you and your wife. Y'all will be in my prayers. I don't pray often, but I am earnest when I do. Please stay in touch. God Bless! (If you want to send me the link and save me the search, send it to robert.m.blake.jr@gmail.com)
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Good stuff. It just crossed my tiny mind that a hairdryer might be useful for those big knots that want to smear when I'm dragging the tool. Man! I need to find another wall to do!
Easily the most informative video on the subject. Especially where the air/material adjustments are concerned. Kudos.
This the is best and most comprehensive instruction on knock down texture on RUclips. Awesome lesson. Thank you.
This was very helpful. I have an upcoming job that wants medium knockdown, which I have never attempted before. After watching this, I am more confident in doing it. I plan on doing quite a few tests at my place before putting it on a customers wall for a first time though. I really appreciate you taking time and showing people things like this.
Jimmer, I honestly love hearing stories like this. I truly enjoy helping others learn how to do these things on their own so thank you for allowing me to help and stay in touch, ok?
My refresher course... Just now ready to start texture on my major remodel. 5 rooms 2 closets a little over a thousand sq. ft. I done quite a bit of tape and bedding and sheet rock repair through the years, but it's always good for me to mentally prepare because of the years between projects. Also because this is an older home and a major remodel...It is a chore to match new with old. But I really do like the challenge. These kind of videos are priceless , this work if I had had to hire it done would have cost me in excess of 25k . I'm talking about hanging the sheet rock, tape, bed , texture and painting. I live in a remote area and contractors can really name their price because out of dozen contractors I'm lucky to have any return calls. 4 hours of electrical work cost me 750. 5 hours plumbing cost a thousand, 1 man working on each. I supplied all the parts.
Hey brother, I'm a contractor and have done this years ago .got one again today .thanks for the refresher course.good stuff
I'm an okay taper but don't have enough patience to make perfectly smooth joints. Doing a medium to heavy knockdown, I can hide my imperfections. Uses a bit more primer covering the texture, but happy I can do the project myself. Hello from Esko, Minnesota. Russ
THANK YOU GUY! Just a note to say Thank you so much for all of these awesome videos! I wanted to let you know that i successfully replaced a sheet and a half of drywall myself. I purchased all of the materials that you suggested from your store. I already had a hopper and air compressor and had previous attempts in the past but failed, due to not having the knowledge in the videos. I mixed up the mud and made an attempt at knock-down on a couple of pieces of drywall from the garage. After spraying the mud I let it set up for a few minutes, approximately 7 - 9 minutes. One piece I used more air and one I used the minimum setting. I used the 12" flexible plastic piece to knock the mud down and WOW, it looked perfect. So, I carried that knowledge onto the drywall that I had taped and floated, also following your guidance. It all worked out perfectly! My wife and brother could not believe that I had done that myself and they were both SUPER IMPRESSED. I truly feel free now, knowing that I understand the process and that you provided me the tools to get the job done right. As a result, I now have the freedom and confidence in knowing that I can do this without having to spend hundreds to thousands of dollars for very minor drywall jobs.
Awesome. I always love hearing that since that's why I do these videos. Take care.
Kilted Guy, you are an exceptionally good teacher. Your years of experience are obvious. Thank you for the valuable information.
Thank you!
Very nice! You kept it simple and straight forward for me. Showing the thickness of the mud and the actual spraying were the things I needed to see.
Love the Technicality put into these videos, all other in the net are just mix, load and shoot. The grey board is great, shows up the textures well. Thanks Brother!
Ever Forward i try hard to make it clearer so you can learn better.
I've been waiting for my brother in law to come help with with a knockdown texture, but I feel like after watching this, I could probably do it myself! Very detailed and lays out everything I need! Thank YOU!
Check out this video too-
KnockDown Texture Repair Sponge that cost $2.00. NO WAY? Yes Way, and it works well. ruclips.net/video/K_J2ANqeyBs/видео.html
Thanks again for doing this video. I used it to help me a few years back and now needing to do some more came right back for this great help. You are awesome and as I believe you are a Veteran thank you for your service.
This old Navy guy is very much appreciative of the care you take to explain the process. I've got whole house I need to texture(a horrible smooth wall finish), and this looks just like what I need to do. Thank you so much!
Hey. I’m glad to be of help.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Do I need to prime smooth wall painted(eggshell or semi-gloss) walls before I do knockdown?
@@martyepperly5803 anytime I apply mud over a painted surface I sand it with 80 grit to remove some sheen and leave scratches, ie tooth, for the mud to bite onto. You can also add a tablespoon or two of woodglue to a bucket of mud for better adhesion.
i have 40 years in finishing and general trade, hands on, I learned a lot from this video...it is clear, clean and concise instruction...no wonder you have had so many likes, keep up the real work...really dig your style and methodical instruction...I will use this on my current 2700 sf interior repaint project, tons of repairs and matching knockdown...
Kilts must be comfortable as hell, but maybe not for high ladder work? tucson usa
Thank you, I truly appreciate that. Well, I figure, if someone walks beneath me on a high ladder and looks up, they must want to see something.... but it's only happened once, and she stood there quite awhile which was funny to me.
Just ordered that hopper and gun, looks perfect for the small jobs I have coming up, and half the cost of going to Lowes or Home Depot.
Mr. Guy Purcella, a big thank you for sharing your knowledge that you've acquired over a lifetime. You are a gifted teacher and help me make sense of what I'm doing and how to remedy my mistakes and problems. I appreciate also your overview of the tools you find suitable and recommendable, and the links you provide for purchasing. Best wishes to you as you fight yours and your wife's health issues. I have contributed to your gofundme page as a way to say thank you for saving me money on my projects, and I hope that many others who view your videos do so as well as a way to express their gratitude.
Thank you so much. I'm glad I've helped you and thanks for your support of our work.
It's all about timing. I would only strike once. I would say always go heavy and and give it 15 to 20 minutes. You want your big glops to be about 6" apart because when they get knocked down they will be closer. If you aim for this you will end up with 1" probably. Use your big plastic knife first then work your 6" or 12" on the light fixture areas and stuff. Less is more. Sometimes you need to walk away and wait. If you run your mud through a brand new paint screen you should barley be able to squeeze it through for lace knockdown. Orange peel should look like a thick duck web on your hands and be strained with the paint screen. Double that thickness for knockdown.
this is the best knockdown tutorial for DIYer......i bought that sprayer but i did not use it because i dont know how to adjust it.....now i can put it to use...i sub
Glad I could help. Let us know how it goes and if you have any further questions.
The medium came out perfect what an awesome job by professional drywaller I prefer medium to heavy gives it more character the light sample doesn't show up enough in my opinion
Really appreciate that you painted the board so we could better see the texture!
My spray down didn’t knock down. Your video showed me why. I will buy more spreadrock and follow your teaching. Thank you. I thought it was all in the wrist but I see it only works in tennis. Thanks again. Air and squeezed, simple.
You are the best! I followed your teaching and did the FIRST good drywall patch I've ever done. THANK YOU!
Awesome!!! I love hearing that. Thanks for sharing. Guy
Excellent tutorial. I caught your video by accident, and not needing to do a knock down job presently. I had to watch the video to completion because your great personality comes through and relaxes me making for a better day!! Thank you for who you are.
Thanks, I appreciate that. 😎
Great the thicker one well hide all the joints and bad floating bought mine already can't wait to try it.
Thanks for creating this video. Very helpful. I was worried about spraying texture in a room I am remodeling but much more confident now. Thanks for serving and defending our country. God Bless!
Thanks, Glad to help and good luck.
Just wanted to follow up on how project went. The project included framing, hanging 6 sheets of sheet rock, taping, and texturing. I watched many of your videos and purchased and used several of the tools you recommended to include the small hopper and large plastic knockdown knife. By using all your techniques and tricks the results were amazing. I was able to match the small knockdown texture perfectly. Thanks for taking the time to help a rookie like me get a great result!
Joe Lucero awesome! Thanks for sharing this. This is why i work so hard to put these videos out.
I removed the old speakers set in the ceiling, repaired the hole and now going to give my best to repair the knock down. I am sure your coaching will now give me what it will take. Thanks again.
i watched your video. I sprayed it out and it came out perfect. The only thing I did wrong was when I blended into the painted area and you were right about it taking longer to dry. The other areas were ready for me to use the knockdown blade but the painted area took all day to dry where I could do the knockdown . I accidentally made one painted area smooth as it wasn't ready..I will try your sponge tear out to dress it up before I paint it. Thanks again. I was amazed how my first job turned out. Your in depth video helped me figure out what I was doing wrong and can make the corrections. Thanks again.
Awesome. Send me a pic of the painted texture if you want I’ll feature it on a video.
Thanks for painting that board, it helps a lot on this screen color etc. Light from screen. Good video my kilted friend.
Thanks for the video. Excellent information and demonstration. I’m doing some repairs on my knockdown ceilings and walls and while I was experimenting and getting close I still wasn’t there yet. After watching the video and getting your tips I got it dialed in. Save me tons of time. Who knows if I would have ever got it right.
Awesome!
Best knockdown video I've seen. I've tried a couple times to texture my ceiling where there were cracks and I fixed the cracks. Both times it came out ugly, so obvious a patch, with a sponge and a metal knife. I'm going to try with this hopper (I already have a compressor) and that big plastic knife.
Just the answers I was looking for with thorough explanations. I had already gotten used to using the same version of the small hopper gun from homart. The 3 different knockdowns you demonstrated was what I was missing. Remodeling to sell and will be back for more I'm sure, when I get my new/used place. I really appreciate you painting the board green so I could see the amount of material you were spraying and the size of the drops.
Richard, glad I could help. I try to make it clear 🤓 for everyone, and although it takes more work, I want to make it as easy to see as possible, so I'm glad it helped. Thanks, Guy
Thank you so so much! This video simplified the concept of the process and I feel confident I can do this!
Best spray texture vid I've seen yet! Great examples all seen together! Brilliant!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi I found the crow for foot texture vido very helpful it showed a way that i think any home owner or small repair guy can install a textured ceiling with tools you may all ready own. I was very pleased and learned new skills.
Excellent and thorough demonstration for those who are seeking DIY information. Many people show using professional floor hoppers that most people will never have access to. Thank you for sharing. I have always used a Kobalt hopper that is almost identical to the larger one you showed. It can get heavy but other than that is a great tool. I personally prefer baby butt smooth class 5 drywall but the two of the bedroom walls of the house we own now were textured, however they did not knock it down and it was horribly rough. We scraped them and are retexturing over them. They also only did two of the four walls. There was wall paper on all walls at one time and I have a feeling that whomever installed the wall paper didn’t prime the walls with wall paper primer. Then when they went to remove it, the two of the walls were badly damaged. Why they didn’t texture all four walls I have no ides? We are doing all four walls and going to try to make them as close as possible to each other. We are priming all of the walls prior to spraying with texture. It has been about 13 years since I textured a wall and just wanted a refresher course. You have given me exactly what I was looking for and after having watched about 10 videos I knew within 10 seconds after starting yours I had found the one I needed. Thank you for being willing to share and teach others your skill set. Many people have no inclination to pass knowledge along. I have always shared freely with anyone willing to learn and greatly appreciate anyone else willing to do the same. Blessings to you Sir.
Thanks. I enjoy doing this and helping others.
Outstanding explanation. We are getting ready to knockdown 75 hotel bathroom walls. Thanks for the refresher course.
Thanks and you’re welcome
Thanks for the tips ! if you want to get the texture out of the can texture, after you use it run the nozzle under water, it will clean out mud and let you continue to use up can until empty !
that makes a big difference. Here’s another canned texture tip. If you go to spray and it’s coming out to coarsely with not enough pressure, run it under hot water for a couple of minutes and try again, and repeat until the pressure is right.
I've watched many videos as I prepare my first texturing project. Yours was by far the most informative. Great Job!! Thank you!!
Ed Appleberry Awesome. That’s my goal is to give you enough information to understand how to do this right. Thanks for your comment!
Thank you for breaking down all the variables that impact how the knockdown will look.
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, I love hearing your comments, & I hope you’ve subscribed!
I really appreciate your tutorials. Thanks for being generous with your time and knowledge!
Hey Brian, thank you for the kind comment and I truly appreciate Your friendship and for you being part of my channel. I really enjoy helping everyone learn these skills. This one was pretty intense to edit and it took me over eight hours just to edit it. Shooting it was much easier, LOL. But in time, I believe it will become my full-time business and make it worth all the effort financially as well as knowing how I’m helping everyone. Thanks again 😎✌🏽💪🏽🦶🏼
I NEED YOUR INPUT. What subjects would you like to see me cover on my channel? Be specific if you can like, 'Fixing a dent in a wall' or 'how to choose a drywall joint compound' etc. Comment below and I'll see it. Thanks! 😎👣
I come across popcorn ceilings that are so heavily painted that I'm not able to completely scrape it off, can only get the nubs off, and have needed to skim it a few times to get it smooth. How do you recommend dealing with that?
TY I learned several things here. That said, a little more info that I thought you'd certainly mention in this video. The nozzle size and air pressure you used in this video. Also, I've watched several other vids where the guys used appearance as their gauge as to when to knockdown. They state to wait until just after the glossy look is gone (20+/- minutes depending on the variables involved).
VICTOR EOUS good questions. I pretty much always use the same air pressure if 35 psi because the airflow, (cfm), is more important. And I almost always use the medium tip. I use the fine tip for really fine texture and rarely use the large tip as i don’t like globby texture you get with that. Thanks for asking.
Choosing materials (quality availability, etc)and/or material choices (different types of same material (all choices in thinset for example) and applications (pressure treated vs ?)
Round corners, thanks. People need to be taught, not told. Good job, thanks again.
Im so glad I found this channel. A plethora of information and knowledge. Thank you Sir.
Thank you so much for your videos, I have watched several of them, sometimes several times, to get tips and tricks to help me on my renovation journey. You have helped me immensely, and have been able to find the answers to all my questions with ease. Thanks to you, I am now confident that I can accomplish my goals successfully. You're a Godsend! Thank you for your tutorials and your service, both for our homes and our country!
Thank you so much. I appreciate the time you have taken to make this video. I’m gonna go do my work now with confidence. Thank you.
Thank you my friend for a great tutorial on a knockdown pattern. I purchased the texture gun and going into battle. Wish me luck.
Thanks for the great tips! Word of advice to diyers. Make sure you have tightened the nut. Funniest thing I've ever seen, is when it came apart and dumped almost a full hopper on my drywaller's head when he started spraying the ceiling. I had to step outside cause I started laughing hysterically and in the moment he wasn't, but later he could laugh about it. I still laugh every time I remember that day and hopefully he does too! 😂
I’ve had a few instances like his and it’s always funnier later, lol
Thanks so much for this video, only one I’ve found that’s taken the time to explain how to properly spray, not just how to knockdown
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Nice work master. It's always good to watch order fellows DRYWALL FINISHERS to learn more or to get better ideas. You did it 👏
Thank you, that was the perfect full length video to explain what I needed to understand.
I have the same hopper. I haven't used it yet because of the price and the air valve. Watching this shows it wont be that bad and how to set it up. Thanks again.👍
Sir you explanation is top of the line . Thank you maestro really helpful , I really appreciate you sir .
Amazing instruction! Thanks for taking the time to show this skill. Particularly enjoyed the setting charts. That will help tremendously
8:07 pancake batter….the go to for explaining.
So here’s I describe thinner “batter” for ppl learning.
Want thinner mix, tell someone to microwave peanut butter or better yet HONEY in micro for 10-30 seconds, than pour into another cup….
For peanut butter nuke it but for 30-45 secs on 90% power (1000w micro) and gets you an idea of what “batter” looking for😉
If you actually do this, please use the amount of 1/2 to 1 cup to give you a good example as anything more than that….times/power be diff. I also highly RECOMMEND that ya do this, so get an idea of what consistency actually is😁
Buddy- Your videos are just what the doctor ordered. Thanks for putting so much effort into helping people like myself. I am getting ready to knockdown the first of 3 bedrooms in my home. We watched your how to fix wall paper spots and the leveling of the brown paper. That's currently where I am. I will skim coat the walls after the 30 or so patches are complete. (90% of my 1980's home was covered with wall paper....fun!) I'm just assuming here but I'm going to want to shoot all walls in each room first then come back to knock them down correct? I saw a mess where some folks had some issues with the mud setting up too quickly and their job wasn't very adequate. Thanks for everything!
NO, don't do that. With a hopper I only spray maybe 100 Sq Ft, and then knock it down, or it will set up to quick and you'll have a mess. Watch my video from this point- ruclips.net/video/eKkDBGHCbJo/видео.html
And watch this video of me actually spraying a large area- ruclips.net/video/0fUkW3SCYiE/видео.html
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@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY All noted! Thank you again!
I think I'm going to have to apply double the amount to match my wall than applied on the heavy sample. Thanks for the great video.
Great video, Guy! I don't do a lot of textures anymore (not popular in my area), so a refresher course was helpful 🙂
I have the Harbor Freight texture gun. It has been amazing and reliable.
Thanks!
Glad to help and we appreciate the Super Thanks.
Great Video! Just finished drywalling a Playhouse- Yes a Playhouse for a family member and they want a knock down texture on the walls and ceiling. It has a vaulted ceiling and it is 8X12 ft with several windows, a door and a wall mount heat and a/c unit in the back wall so, I'm thinking I should be able to texture the whole thing and then do the knock down since it is primered with a quality name brand primer already that will slow the drying process and it is quite humid here from all the rain we have had. And he has a texture gun like yours which I have never used one before like that. Thumbs up and Thanks for the details.
I would advise practicing on some scrap first, or a small section of the job and just scrape it off after your done. But this video and my spraying variable should definitely give you a good job. Thanks for commenting.
I love it I'm redoing home myself I forget what to do some of time
Thank you, Mr. Kilted Guy for such an informative video.
What is the best compressor size? Also, what is the best psi setting for spraying texture?
I am so glad I found this video!!!! You answered ALL my questions!
Always glad to hear that. Thanks
Your video was spot on. I followed everything you said and my first knock down job went great thanks so much
Fantastic!
Thank you for the video that EXPLAINS the things that affect the pattern. I am slightly less terrified now - since my husband swears he is too heavy handed to do it. Now I need to go through your other videos. I stumbled on this one. Amazon items are in the wish list for now until we get the wood ceiling done.
I just knew this would help people much better than just showing how I do it, so I'm always glad to hear that it has. Thanks, and good luck. Guy
You’re treasure trove man. Thank you for your awesome videos!
Incredibly helpful, thank you That Kilted Guy!
You're great thank you for the advice. I bought the same tools for my bathroom project
Medium texture job for small 200 sf garage coming up because of you! Thanks!
I wish I had watched this video before we bought 4 cans of spray texture. We watched a couple of your videos about how to take off the popcorn (we are redoing our bathrooms) and it worked perfectly and we used the Krud Kutter and it came off in sheets. My husband only has 1 day a week off so we knew it would be slow going since we have 3 bathrooms and are installing new vanities, painting, installing new flooring in 2 of the bathrooms and decided to try and take off the popcorn and then knockdown texture the ceilings. The bathrooms are small and we thought if it goes well, maybe we could tackle the popcorn in the rest of our 3 story, 3500 sq ft fixer upper. LOL! Well he got so upset trying to use the canned spray texture (it was just oozing out the front and not even making it to the ceiling) that he was ready to throw in the towel, which really isn't like him, so I said let me see if I can find a video from that kilted guy. And I did and I love the 1st thing you say is "you should NOT waste your money on Spray Can Texture." So thanks again! We have renewed hope that we can accomplish this because of your videos. We are even going to order some items from your link below. :)
really glad I could help. Here’s a little tip though. When you use spray can texture and it doesn’t want to spray hard enough, heat it up under hot water until it does. The hot water will increase the pressure in the can and get it to spray. But I still hate the stuff, LOL
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I tried the spray can on a cardboard box. I used about half of the can, then calculated the cost of doing my wall project. It didn't take long to figure out that I could buy the sprayer and a box of mud powder, borrow a compressor, and still save over $100. The spray can is expensive and the results are terrible. The hint on heating up the can is useful if I need to use the can for a patch somewhere. Thanks!
Thank you for this! I’m going with the heavy texture on my ceiling
Learn so much by just watching your video!
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Very useful video. Especially, the explanation of how to get the medium, heavy by adjusting the trigger pull and airflow among other things. Going to do a texture for the first time. I Have confidence after watching this video. Thank you !!!
Outstanding video helps a lot. Thanks for the demo. Doing knock down first time tomorrow. Will see
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Thanks for helping me build my channel to 100,000 subscribers and beyond
Thanks so much! ❤ Super informative and entertaining 😊 you answered ALL of questions, and you have another subscriber!Keep the good work coming!🎉😊
Very informative, thank you for taking the time to explain this step by step.
Glad it was helpful!
I usually do the stomp knockdown for a little more patterns to hide ugly spots on the ceiling, I've never done walls, I'm not a big fan of textured walls
Wow thank you. Great demo. Happy j found your channel. Confident I can do this now
2 questions, please. First what size air compressor do I need with the hopper? We have a small 2 gallon compressor that I hope to be able to use. Second, we are remodeling a mobile home and taking those strips off, and then tape and bedding the seams. Do we need a special mud for the vinyl wall paper?
Awesome video. I really like the look of the heavy knockdown.
Thank you very educational very interesting keep up the good work guy
Great teaching job, learned a lot.thank you.
Thanks for the very thorough tutorial 🙌🏻
And sharing the tricks of your trade👊🏻
My pleasure!
Hi, I'm remodeling my home putting in new windows and also a new ceiling in my kitchen. My question is, should I put a primer and paint first than the knockdown spray or put the knockdown spray on first and then primer and paint. Thank you.
Well like think the texture manufacturers actually do call for priming first and I think that would give you a more even hold out, especially when doing enough a knockdown texture. But honestly, I’ve never seen it done on new construction. I do think it’s a good idea, especially for novices as it will make the texture knockdown more evenly.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thank you so much for your reply, I really appreciate it. I also appreciate your videos it's very thoughtful of you for doing this for everyone.
Thanks William. Honestly, I've done this for 30+ years and I was ready to move onto something else, and when I discovered I could pass on my knowledge to others on RUclips, and one day make a living at it, I loved it. I love helping others learn. I often teach my customers things on the job from fixing minor plumbing issues, to adjusting the door closing rate on storm doors, to how to paint the repairs I do after I leave. So this is a perfect fit for me. Just can't wait until I can do this full time, especially since the vertigo has forced me to decline a lot of jobs these days. But honestly, I love doing these RUclips videos, as long as it can pay my bills one day. I often spend 2 days putting out one video and editing can take 8-10 hours of that. So thanks for your kind reply, and for being part of my community, I truly appreciate it.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Your welcome my friend.
If you prime the taped and floated wall before texturing I think you will need to prime twice. Once before texture, and then again afterwards...and before painting. Paint manufacturer's, as well as most paint channels I've watched say that to get get the best paint finish, you should always prime raw drywall. The mud and paper absorb paint differently. That would mean the work would cost more.
As Kilted Guy says, and in all new construction I've ever seen, home builders never prime before applying texture. That said, I'm just a fellow DIY'ER, not a pro.
Very informational and easy explained! Great presentation thank you
THANKS A LOT! Excellent instruction for us newbies. BIG thanks for the knockdown blade tip - super product!
Glad it was helpful!
I know you mentioned paint and raw drywall have a different setup time for HEAVY knock down. Can you give me an idea of how long to wait for raw drywall and for painted drywall? My bathroom project involves both types merging and I will use the "less glossy look" technique you spoke of as well. I just want an idea for reference.
Thank you and thanks for the great videos!!!!!!!!
Best video on the subject! Thank you for sharing.
Wow, thank you!
Thanks for giving your time and experience. You sure help explain things for my benefit!