Josh, how about a tuning video,starting with a paper tune and then provide the steps to move the arrow, so confused myself on what to move first, the rest, the cams, twist the strings.... forget that I'm a moron, but I still would like to have a step by step in how to properly approach the process. A michigan man here wishing you were my bow shop. thanks for all your vids watch them all.
These are the steps I do. 1) set nock height level and arrow 13/16” from shelf. 2) throw stabilizer or stabilizer’s roughly with the weight I’m going to use on the bow. 3) if string set is new shoot some arrows at close range to get the string set to settle some. Or throw it on the draw board at full draw and let it sit for 20-30 mins. This will get the cables to settle in.4) shoot through paper and study tear. High low tears check timing. If that’s perfect you may be getting contact on the rest or form may be off. I fix vertical rips first. Once that’s cleaned up work on the left and right tears. For paper I like to leave my rest at 13/16 and adjust with the shims or yokes. That way if your fixed blades are flying a little off you can make the necessary adjustments with micro tuning your rest. Usually just a couple clicks here and there if necessary.
@@mash4funBefore you adjust anything, make sure that your cams are in sync when they roll over and that one doesn’t stop before the other. If they aren’t in sync, you need to (un)twist the cables. Most bows have two little dashes on the cam for where the cable is designed to rest between. Always fix your vertical tears first.
Josh do you have a guide for how short to cut an arrow if you are gonna use an insert outsert system? Like the new Easton one for a the 4mm shaft? Or the standard victory collar? Thanks.
Very cool and informative. I am a relatively new shooter and although very simple stuff for the experienced, very helpful to me. I travel for work and hope to be in Spokane in next few months, I'll be sure to visit your shop. Please keep up the 101 lessons, I'm sure there are plenty of folks like me who will benefit.
Yes please with more 101 videos. I’m interested in starting the hobby of building my own arrows, so I would love instructional videos on it. I saw your video on the fletch jig, so more content like that. What glues or cements you use, etc. Love the content, please keep it up! Thank you
Great video Josh !! I cut my arrows an inch shorter than my draw length. ie. my draw is 28” so I cut them at 27” That puts them right past the middle of the riser.
Thanks for all you do! I'd love to see a deeper dive into FOC considerations and specifics (like how much? how much is too much? etc.) as well as covering how inserts and tip weights work in conjunction with arrow length. What does right look like?
Yes please. I’m trying to learn and this is what I need. Next please do arrow selection such as diameter with hardware for what application. Then how to use tools such as hamske levels and such to set up my bow.
While this may not be a full Archery 101 video idea, I would like to see/hear your thoughts on the use of a a lens and clarifier in your bow setup. When it make sense and when it doesn't. Thank you for ding the video! I hope everyone appreciates the time you invest to film and produce them.
Its all in where you feel comfortable where your BHs are. Ive ran an overdraw before with 25in arrows with a 28.5dl. Only thing you really have to watch is where the collars on the arrows are, if you have them.
@lawrencefranck9417 they're a great tool to use. I believe Hamskea still offers there's. It's all about taking the time to understand it. Just like anything else. Actually nice seeing someone comments that remembers.
My 2nd compound was a Martin Firecat with an overdraw rest back in the early 1990's. It was my least favorite bow because of the overdraw feature. Any riser twist in the hand was magnified greatly. The short, light aluminum arrows had terrible penetration. Someone shooting a broadhead like the NAP Exodus (blades sweep back over the shaft creating a broadhead that's about the same length as a field point) may want a little more length than someone shooting something like a Slick Trick Magnum. To simply say a 1/2" past the rest is a bit of an assumption in my opinion. If your bow doesn't have a super solid backwall, you may want your arrows a bit longer, too. I know individuals who have over drawn their bow when a big buck excites them, and their broadhead caught the rest pulling the arrow off the string or pulled the nock out of the arrow. Crazy things can happen when one is excited.
I’ve been a bow hunter for over 55 years so I’ve tried about everything. Shortly after the biscuit came out I watched a guy shoot a perfect 5 spot indoor round twice in one night. I decided to try one. I wore two of them out over the next few years on my hunting bow. They are actually great for hunting. It can be a pain getting one dialed in but there’s NOTHING wrong or bad about using one. IMO and you won’t loose any speed as some claim. I tested that many times with different vanes.
I have 4 bows…3 have drop aways and one has a whisker biscuit….all are great. I prefer the whisker biscuit.. you have to brush its hair every now and then and get new inserts every couple of years…but very simple and very effective.. I may remove the quad off the PSE and put on a biscuit. My opinion doesn’t seem to be in sync with the general archery world though.
Great video and thanks for your recommendation. It convinced me to go with the shorter arrow setup for TAC. One idea for the future would be stock strings vs aftermarket and the differences in the brands.
I was just reviewing my arrow length this morning. I had a few shafts cut at my local shop, but I forgot that the Quantum runs a half out insert effectively making the arrow longer. Thank you for the information, I always find it valuable.
So maybe you did read my email after all where I said, " I think you and Tim (or you and Dan) should do a video series called 'know your bow' where you break down each component of a bow (riser, limbs, cams, strings, cables, rests, grips, sights, stabilizers, dampeners, etc.), what that component does, how it works, how length, width, weight, angle, etc. affect it., what's the difference between a cheap bow and a high end one, things to consider based on your size, experience, use, etc. "
This probably isn't a "beginner" question, but in regards to FOC: swapping in my lighted nock drops my FOC from 14.3% to 13.2%... how much is this actually affecting anything, or am I just diving down this rabbit hole? Arrow is an Easton Sonic 6.0 with 100gr deadmeats and halo knocks
Is the min. grains per draw length still a thing? The old rule of 5g per inch of draw length. I built a set of arrows for TAC and they come in at 312g. 27" XV RIPS ,350 spine w/120g glue in points. 70# Traverse 27.5" draw length. TOO LIGHT????
everyone else tells us "their" opinion. you actually tell us why and the reasoning and effects of cutting longer vs shorter. Thanks dude... by the way. I'm ordering some .204 Stainless inserts today from you. Can I suggest a stainless .166 option. please and thank you
My comment is more of a question and advise Prime nexus 2 Gold tip xt hunter 300gr 27” 281/2” draw 100gr tip Shooting 299 fps Sever 2.0 Broadhead Want to go on elk hunt Everyone talks more weight So went and got G5 mark 203 300 spine 5mm Will put left helical with single bevel iron will My speed dropped to 270??? WTF Did I go too heavy if so your thoughts on stow to use or is 270 ok for an elk hunt
Josh, why do shorter bows shoot faster? Also, keep doing these. I'm literally learning to shoot from YT content and I'm learning about who actually knows their subject.
I have a question on bow length that no one has been able to answer articulately or even in a way I’ve been able to understand. What size bow is best for my draw length? My draw length is 27in. I shoot a Mathew’s V3X 29 because that’s what I was told would fit me best. What would the pros and cons be if I switched to a 33 ATA for instance? I like the idea of shooting a longer bow from the performance perspective. I’d like to understand it better
Great stuff here for sure,as usual. But if you are shooting a wide COC like a 1.5 inch wide head, I will continue to cut them off the shelf to keep them from my fingers, So the asterisk always is, depending on your broadhead. Another issue might be, but not a rule, is a mechanical with a huge 2 inch cut, upon release, may open. I never trusted how they lock in or any of the elastic O rings.. I don't shoot mechanicals, but i'd still use my large cut COC arrows I use for hog hunting. As for FOC ? @ 80 pounds, and using an over spine 200 even a 250 spine @ my 27.5 draw, FOC is difficult to influence greatly. Basically with a 200 spine, what you get is what you get. Tinkering with FOC is harder,but with a 150 grain head, and a 50 grain half out, i'm more than lethal with FOC and KE and my favorite Momentum. i'm 65 so you know I am old school, and even moreso. I remember a Hoyt Super Slam bow I had with an overdraw, maybe close to 40 years ago ? We cut the arrows short because we wanted speed. Aluminum arrows I used 2413's. With a little bit of string stretch after time, I draw the bow back, using the fix TM launcher. Field tip,,luckily, and the arrow pulled past the forks on the TM rest and fell in below the rest. I don't recall how I was able to correct it ? I think I kept it at full draw pull up all I had, and used my thumb from the grip to push the arrow up onto the fork and slightly crept the arrow back on. Those twin cam bows you were able to "creep" them forward, hence the term "creep tuning", match cams top to bottom. So for me, I was never like the target and 3D shooters who cut shafts to the rest for the extra FPS or whatever.
I think that offering this as blanket advice is probably not appropriate. I am currently still shooting my 2010 model year Hoyt Maxxis. Last week I had one of the blazer vanes hit my index finger near the knuckle. I do not point my fingers forward, but as I examined this "risk factor", I could see that with a tight grip (meaning high up into the point of the grip where it widens) with a relaxed grip, my grip hand knuckle would protrude up above the "cut-out" and it could be at risk of being cut by a Broadhead. I've been shooting this bow for 14 years and the type of contact has been a rare occurrence. But once with a Broadhead is twice too many. I would LOVE to shorten my arrows as you suggest and I have considered it. But at least for now, with this bow, I think it would be irresponsible. especially since I mostly do remote wilderness hunts with a full day to get to a trailhead. I guess for those folks that shoot mechanicals, it is probably safe. I'm thinking hard about purchasing an RX8 / RX8 Ultra. Perhaps that design will be more accommodating for your suggested strategy.
One question I’ve had that no one has covered. FOC is desirable but where is the point of diminishing return? I can setup my Victory XV with 25% FOC and still be around 450 grains but is that best for the arrow? If not what is and why?
I would like to purchase everything to build my own arrows. Maybe you can help me with everything I need thanks in advance Josh. The man I’m learning thanks 🙏🏽.
2% would be a very optimistic for only cutting off 3 inches of arrow. However .5% or 1% is still a good improvement in FOC, especially at longer draw lengths, where you might need the added stiffness in the arrow.
Really great idea to do a 101 series. I am new into archery and amazed at all the singular aspects that can be be learned, but even more at how interconnected and related everything is. I have so many questions that need clarifying as I wade thru the youtube sea of archery minutia. This one on arrow length was perfect because I thought the arrow length had to be the same as draw length. My draw length is 29' and now I realize the arrow can be shorter than that. Thank you! Something that intrigues me now is finding the videos you and others did with Joel Turner where he talks about "muscle memory" and gives it the name it really should have which is "motor program"...thats beautiful man and so valuable. I am hooked but its so very expensive to have the best.
How about broadheads 101? I’ve heard you say that you like 3 blades better than 4 blades but I haven’t heard you say why. Only thing I can think of is 3 planes of cutting vs 2.
Just a question that’s been wrapping around my head that I hope you may have an answer for. When you adjust the D-loop to align with a slightly twisted peep sight, theoretically the string is somewhat twisted at full draw. With correct serving size and gap between nock, will there be any issues when the arrow is launched to affect accuracy? May be a silly question but I stay hungry for any new knowledge gained. TIA
I asked this on one of your other videos where you add a collar and insert, making the arrow longer. With those setups in mind, where would you cut your arrow. Ultimately, I think the question comes down to weight vs length but I’ve only ever used standard inserts and increased weight with the broadhead/fieldpoint.
Just an idea but could you do a video foccusing on bows and tips for archers with long draw length 32"+. Are there ways to use shorter draw bows without compromising form.. Us gorillas dont get a lot of mention and with bow companies moving to shorter draw bows (bowtech for example) options for flagships are drying up. Thanks
Arrow setup for low poundage shooters for hunting, got my kids shooting around 40 lbs, my kids just started archery this year, I only started a year or so ago so I don't have the knowledge base to help their setup as much.
Josh, could you discuss what the best total arrow weight should be based on draw poundage? Mythbust this for me as I have heard some talk around a bows max efficiency is ~8gr per pound of draw, so we should try to make total arrow wt. as close to this number as possible. Is this accurate? Or what’s the best way to determine how heavy of an arrow to shoot? Thanks man! 👊
Watching ASA, the moment wind started catching up, I saw loads of female more than male shooters change to micro diameter arrows. The commentators mentioned that they change their sight tapes to match the micro diameter ones. I always thought it was way more than just a sight tape. What about the arrow rest blade dimensions and thickness..? Don’t think they are all using drop-away rests( correct me if wrong).
I've said this on other videos. My local shop has a rts package for $120.00 granted its not the nicest or most top of the line. Put it gets me into shooting. Then I can upgrade as I grew and develop. The package includes a quiver, site, peep, arrow rest. It would be nice of podium put a package like this together. I was wanting to order a darton consequence but trying to figure out the accessories in said screw it. I think you should out together a package of accessories and offer it as a bundle.
Man I would like to see a fletching video about the different devices, ease of use for repeatability. With consideration of the home archer who isn't gonna fletch hundreds or thousands of arrows a year. Or just the best gear for the home archer in general.
How short do you want to make your draw length? Overdraws were pretty common for hunters 30 years ago so that you could get a shorter, faster arrow. Arrow length is dictated by your draw length...crossbow bolts are pretty dang short compared to the arrows that vertical bows shoot.
Hello. This is just for reference. I have a 29" draw on my Bear Legit with a Trophy Ridge Sync MD drop away rest. I cut my arrows down to 27" carbon to carbon, and still have about 1/2" in front of the rest before the components contact the rest.
I really hate how bow manufacturers don't provide comprehensive set up and tuning guides for their bows. It makes the barrier of entry pretty high for most people. There's a lot of misinformation around as well. Centre shot is probably a good one to cover.
When switching arrow sizes, like 5mm to 4mm, do you have to change just the height of your rest or does that require a new knock point and moving the d loop as well?
Timing video. Michael from your shop just showed how he removed felt on Mathew’s bow to get a harder back wall and more accurate timing can you show what he means on draw board ?
What size arrow to shot 3D and targer out side (OD of the arrow) and does the vain size on larger size help? Thank you My first bow came from yall hahaha the start of this rabbit hole and I love falling down it haha
How much pressure you should have on your front hand and how much on your release hand should your front arm be straight or a little bent. Show a camera angle of what your sight picture should look like while looking through your peep. Twisting your string vs twisting your cables what each one does and why you would do them
super straight on the point video. honestly id TAKE ANY ADVICE you give on ANYTHING ARCHERY related! love the channel and podcast cant wait for the next one
See I run my arrows a little bit longer. A lot of times because my one broadhead that's a inch and a half fixed hits the riser on my vertex if it's cocked one of those ways. So I just avoid all that by having it stop right there. Still get good tuning unless if I want a lighter arrow then I'll cut go down to a different blade and yada yada
What are your thoughts on those v style biscuits? I switched to compound about a year ago and got one for my first compound. I ended up getting one to replace the stock one and brought it in for a tune. My locao shop said they cant tune it properly because they "have had problems tuning these rests previously". Wasnt too sure if thats common or if theres another tuning problem theyre not identifying
I would suggest a video on proper grip. I have seen more than a few archers with fingers loose, not wrapped around the grip. With a broadhead and a short arrow, that could lose a finger. You did say this was 101.
Hi Josh, it's super useful. Question, how you will measure the arrow if you have an arrow rest? Just the same in full draw with the arrow rest at 90 degrees? Cheers
Would you cut it a little longer with a drop away rest so fixed blade or mechanical baldes dont interfere with the action of the rest? Thank you for such great info
3 days too late . Already cut mine at center of riser was worried about going to far to towards rest but really wanted to Wack another 1” for FOC . Thanks for the video for future reference .
Do you think changing speed nocks on hunting bows is worth it? Assuming these bows are setup from the factory to be most efficient with 350 grain arrows witch nobody hunts with these days
Have you thought about selling a starter bundle for people wanting to buy stuff to start doing their own d-loop, nocking point, peep, serving ect? Basically a bundle of everything they need to do that to get started on the right path
Why is it that you constantly tell us to never draw a bow without an arrow nocked but you continue to draw your bows with your barehand without an arrow 🤔🤷♂️🤦♂️
I’d like to see how you use your bow square to determine where to tie your nocking points. What measurements do you use and do you tie the top or bottom nocking point tight to the arrow. Thanks
I've heard another train of thought, but it ends up close to this, if not a little longer. You can find out where the 'node' of your arrow is by holding it at the nock and tapping the shaft at something hard like a table. There is a spot, close behind the point/insert where there's no bounce. That's where the arrow will flex around, and the shaft might be best supported there since it doesn't move at launch.
I asked in your other video this week. Please do a video on peep twist and how many times you might have to twist your string. And upper vs lower string twists.
How about how to rebuild a bow or how feasible is it to replace say a damaged limb on a used bow that is no longer in production? I know the short answer is just go buy a new one but for those who can't what is realistic or your best options?
Thank you for the great information 👍 and perfect timing because I just ordered an arrow saw a bow vise and a bunch of other tuning tools so now im no longer reliant on my Loca shop for simple adjustments 👍
Thank you for a 101 series. I can't explain how grateful new viewers and archers will feel about this. Thank you.
Josh, how about a tuning video,starting with a paper tune and then provide the steps to move the arrow, so confused myself on what to move first, the rest, the cams, twist the strings.... forget that I'm a moron, but I still would like to have a step by step in how to properly approach the process. A michigan man here wishing you were my bow shop. thanks for all your vids watch them all.
Josh has videos of it already
@@michaelbushey2787 he asked and the videos I’ve seen are overviews not the detail that I was asking about.
These are the steps I do. 1) set nock height level and arrow 13/16” from shelf. 2) throw stabilizer or stabilizer’s roughly with the weight I’m going to use on the bow. 3) if string set is new shoot some arrows at close range to get the string set to settle some. Or throw it on the draw board at full draw and let it sit for 20-30 mins. This will get the cables to settle in.4) shoot through paper and study tear. High low tears check timing. If that’s perfect you may be getting contact on the rest or form may be off. I fix vertical rips first. Once that’s cleaned up work on the left and right tears. For paper I like to leave my rest at 13/16 and adjust with the shims or yokes. That way if your fixed blades are flying a little off you can make the necessary adjustments with micro tuning your rest. Usually just a couple clicks here and there if necessary.
@@mash4funBefore you adjust anything, make sure that your cams are in sync when they roll over and that one doesn’t stop before the other.
If they aren’t in sync, you need to (un)twist the cables. Most bows have two little dashes on the cam for where the cable is designed to rest between.
Always fix your vertical tears first.
I love the short simple lessons
Josh do you have a guide for how short to cut an arrow if you are gonna use an insert outsert system? Like the new Easton one for a the 4mm shaft? Or the standard victory collar? Thanks.
Very cool and informative. I am a relatively new shooter and although very simple stuff for the experienced, very helpful to me. I travel for work and hope to be in Spokane in next few months, I'll be sure to visit your shop. Please keep up the 101 lessons, I'm sure there are plenty of folks like me who will benefit.
Yes please with more 101 videos. I’m interested in starting the hobby of building my own arrows, so I would love instructional videos on it. I saw your video on the fletch jig, so more content like that. What glues or cements you use, etc.
Love the content, please keep it up! Thank you
Great video Josh !!
I cut my arrows an inch shorter than my draw length. ie. my draw is 28” so I cut them at 27”
That puts them right past the middle of the riser.
101 about all 3 axis of adjustement when setting up a new sight and the local bow shop is... too old school! Thanks love the videos!
Nice video! I still cut mine the old school way, but I already run a stiffer spine arrow, and they tune just fine, so it all works out in the end!
Thanks for all you do! I'd love to see a deeper dive into FOC considerations and specifics (like how much? how much is too much? etc.) as well as covering how inserts and tip weights work in conjunction with arrow length. What does right look like?
"I'm going to be smart about this" ducks under, then talks with hands and puts it in front of the arrow... I would do this too.
When and how to re-wax bow strings?
Really? You shouldn't have a bow in your hand if you need help with that. 😂
@@typhoon2827 I believe the question, related to the Archery 101 theme and this basic thing is not mentioned very much.
Yes please. I’m trying to learn and this is what I need. Next please do arrow selection such as diameter with hardware for what application. Then how to use tools such as hamske levels and such to set up my bow.
While this may not be a full Archery 101 video idea, I would like to see/hear your thoughts on the use of a a lens and clarifier in your bow setup. When it make sense and when it doesn't.
Thank you for ding the video! I hope everyone appreciates the time you invest to film and produce them.
Its all in where you feel comfortable where your BHs are. Ive ran an overdraw before with 25in arrows with a 28.5dl. Only thing you really have to watch is where the collars on the arrows are, if you have them.
Bows once came with overdraws
@lawrencefranck9417 they're a great tool to use. I believe Hamskea still offers there's. It's all about taking the time to understand it. Just like anything else. Actually nice seeing someone comments that remembers.
My 2nd compound was a Martin Firecat with an overdraw rest back in the early 1990's. It was my least favorite bow because of the overdraw feature. Any riser twist in the hand was magnified greatly. The short, light aluminum arrows had terrible penetration. Someone shooting a broadhead like the NAP Exodus (blades sweep back over the shaft creating a broadhead that's about the same length as a field point) may want a little more length than someone shooting something like a Slick Trick Magnum. To simply say a 1/2" past the rest is a bit of an assumption in my opinion.
If your bow doesn't have a super solid backwall, you may want your arrows a bit longer, too. I know individuals who have over drawn their bow when a big buck excites them, and their broadhead caught the rest pulling the arrow off the string or pulled the nock out of the arrow. Crazy things can happen when one is excited.
What are your honest thoughts about whisker biscuits?
I’ve been a bow hunter for over 55 years so I’ve tried about everything. Shortly after the biscuit came out I watched a guy shoot a perfect 5 spot indoor round twice in one night. I decided to try one. I wore two of them out over the next few years on my hunting bow. They are actually great for hunting. It can be a pain getting one dialed in but there’s NOTHING wrong or bad about using one. IMO and you won’t loose any speed as some claim. I tested that many times with different vanes.
I have 4 bows…3 have drop aways and one has a whisker biscuit….all are great. I prefer the whisker biscuit.. you have to brush its hair every now and then and get new inserts every couple of years…but very simple and very effective.. I may remove the quad off the PSE and put on a biscuit. My opinion doesn’t seem to be in sync with the general archery world though.
One of your episodes for archery 101 should be how to adjust your second and third access on your bow sight
Great video and thanks for your recommendation. It convinced me to go with the shorter arrow setup for TAC. One idea for the future would be stock strings vs aftermarket and the differences in the brands.
I was just reviewing my arrow length this morning. I had a few shafts cut at my local shop, but I forgot that the Quantum runs a half out insert effectively making the arrow longer. Thank you for the information, I always find it valuable.
101 topics, correct draw length, too much draw weight, correct grip, correct arrow spine, different kinds of releases, pin float
So maybe you did read my email after all where I said, " I think you and Tim (or you and Dan) should do a video series called 'know your bow' where you break down each component of a bow (riser, limbs, cams, strings, cables, rests, grips, sights, stabilizers, dampeners, etc.), what that component does, how it works, how length, width, weight, angle, etc. affect it., what's the difference between a cheap bow and a high end one, things to consider based on your size, experience, use, etc. "
This probably isn't a "beginner" question, but in regards to FOC: swapping in my lighted nock drops my FOC from 14.3% to 13.2%... how much is this actually affecting anything, or am I just diving down this rabbit hole? Arrow is an Easton Sonic 6.0 with 100gr deadmeats and halo knocks
Is the min. grains per draw length still a thing? The old rule of 5g per inch of draw length. I built a set of arrows for TAC and they come in at 312g. 27" XV RIPS ,350 spine w/120g glue in points. 70# Traverse 27.5" draw length. TOO LIGHT????
everyone else tells us "their" opinion. you actually tell us why and the reasoning and effects of cutting longer vs shorter. Thanks dude... by the way. I'm ordering some .204 Stainless inserts today from you. Can I suggest a stainless .166 option. please and thank you
My comment is more of a question and advise
Prime nexus 2
Gold tip xt hunter 300gr 27”
281/2” draw
100gr tip
Shooting 299 fps
Sever 2.0 Broadhead
Want to go on elk hunt
Everyone talks more weight
So went and got G5 mark 203 300 spine 5mm
Will put left helical with single bevel iron will
My speed dropped to 270??? WTF
Did I go too heavy if so your thoughts on stow to use or is 270 ok for an elk hunt
Josh, why do shorter bows shoot faster? Also, keep doing these. I'm literally learning to shoot from YT content and I'm learning about who actually knows their subject.
I have a question on bow length that no one has been able to answer articulately or even in a way I’ve been able to understand. What size bow is best for my draw length? My draw length is 27in. I shoot a Mathew’s V3X 29 because that’s what I was told would fit me best. What would the pros and cons be if I switched to a 33 ATA for instance? I like the idea of shooting a longer bow from the performance perspective. I’d like to understand it better
Great stuff here for sure,as usual.
But if you are shooting a wide COC like a 1.5 inch wide head, I will continue to cut them off the shelf to keep them from my fingers, So the asterisk always is, depending on your broadhead. Another issue might be, but not a rule, is a mechanical with a huge 2 inch cut, upon release, may open. I never trusted how they lock in or any of the elastic O rings.. I don't shoot mechanicals, but i'd still use my large cut COC arrows I use for hog hunting. As for FOC ? @ 80 pounds, and using an over spine 200 even a 250 spine @ my 27.5 draw, FOC is difficult to influence greatly. Basically with a 200 spine, what you get is what you get. Tinkering with FOC is harder,but with a 150 grain head, and a 50 grain half out, i'm more than lethal with FOC and KE and my favorite Momentum.
i'm 65 so you know I am old school, and even moreso. I remember a Hoyt Super Slam bow I had with an overdraw, maybe close to 40 years ago ? We cut the arrows short because we wanted speed. Aluminum arrows I used 2413's. With a little bit of string stretch after time, I draw the bow back, using the fix TM launcher. Field tip,,luckily, and the arrow pulled past the forks on the TM rest and fell in below the rest. I don't recall how I was able to correct it ? I think I kept it at full draw pull up all I had, and used my thumb from the grip to push the arrow up onto the fork and slightly crept the arrow back on. Those twin cam bows you were able to "creep" them forward, hence the term "creep tuning", match cams top to bottom.
So for me, I was never like the target and 3D shooters who cut shafts to the rest for the extra FPS or whatever.
I think that offering this as blanket advice is probably not appropriate.
I am currently still shooting my 2010 model year Hoyt Maxxis. Last week I had one of the blazer vanes hit my index finger near the knuckle. I do not point my fingers forward, but as I examined this "risk factor", I could see that with a tight grip (meaning high up into the point of the grip where it widens) with a relaxed grip, my grip hand knuckle would protrude up above the "cut-out" and it could be at risk of being cut by a Broadhead. I've been shooting this bow for 14 years and the type of contact has been a rare occurrence. But once with a Broadhead is twice too many.
I would LOVE to shorten my arrows as you suggest and I have considered it. But at least for now, with this bow, I think it would be irresponsible. especially since I mostly do remote wilderness hunts with a full day to get to a trailhead.
I guess for those folks that shoot mechanicals, it is probably safe.
I'm thinking hard about purchasing an RX8 / RX8 Ultra. Perhaps that design will be more accommodating for your suggested strategy.
Thank you for all of your knowledge MFJJ! Looking forward to learning from this series!
One question I’ve had that no one has covered. FOC is desirable but where is the point of diminishing return? I can setup my Victory XV with 25% FOC and still be around 450 grains but is that best for the arrow? If not what is and why?
I would like to purchase everything to build my own arrows. Maybe you can help me with everything I need thanks in advance Josh. The man I’m learning thanks 🙏🏽.
Old school is using an antique overdraw to shorten arrow resulting in lighter, stiffer, & faster... What happened to those?😅
2% would be a very optimistic for only cutting off 3 inches of arrow. However .5% or 1% is still a good improvement in FOC, especially at longer draw lengths, where you might need the added stiffness in the arrow.
Really great idea to do a 101 series. I am new into archery and amazed at all the singular aspects that can be be learned, but even more at how interconnected and related everything is. I have so many questions that need clarifying as I wade thru the youtube sea of archery minutia. This one on arrow length was perfect because I thought the arrow length had to be the same as draw length. My draw length is 29' and now I realize the arrow can be shorter than that. Thank you!
Something that intrigues me now is finding the videos you and others did with Joel Turner where he talks about "muscle memory" and gives it the name it really should have which is "motor program"...thats beautiful man and so valuable. I am hooked but its so very expensive to have the best.
How about broadheads 101? I’ve heard you say that you like 3 blades better than 4 blades but I haven’t heard you say why. Only thing I can think of is 3 planes of cutting vs 2.
Just a question that’s been wrapping around my head that I hope you may have an answer for.
When you adjust the D-loop to align with a slightly twisted peep sight, theoretically the string is somewhat twisted at full draw. With correct serving size and gap between nock, will there be any issues when the arrow is launched to affect accuracy?
May be a silly question but I stay hungry for any new knowledge gained.
TIA
I asked this on one of your other videos where you add a collar and insert, making the arrow longer. With those setups in mind, where would you cut your arrow. Ultimately, I think the question comes down to weight vs length but I’ve only ever used standard inserts and increased weight with the broadhead/fieldpoint.
Just an idea but could you do a video foccusing on bows and tips for archers with long draw length 32"+. Are there ways to use shorter draw bows without compromising form.. Us gorillas dont get a lot of mention and with bow companies moving to shorter draw bows (bowtech for example) options for flagships are drying up. Thanks
Half inch is spooky dude. Half inch to a standard insert, put a q.a.d exodus on there with a squishy back wall, ruhroh raggy
I got big mitts, I would cut my finger. I can’t run Blazers because they hit my finger.
Arrow building 101, installing different sights, arrow rests, treat this like your talking to an absolute new person with bow.
Arrow setup for low poundage shooters for hunting, got my kids shooting around 40 lbs, my kids just started archery this year, I only started a year or so ago so I don't have the knowledge base to help their setup as much.
I shoot the Easton Axis Pro 400 spine..my question is,Can you get the insert out safely, without damaging the shaft, after it has been installed??
Two 101 idea
101 what to expect from your bow shop when shopping for a new bow
101 what to know yourself for shopping for a new bow
You compound guys need to worry more about getting enough weight in your broad head and stop the love affair with these light and dinky mechanicals.
Josh, could you discuss what the best total arrow weight should be based on draw poundage? Mythbust this for me as I have heard some talk around a bows max efficiency is ~8gr per pound of draw, so we should try to make total arrow wt. as close to this number as possible. Is this accurate? Or what’s the best way to determine how heavy of an arrow to shoot? Thanks man! 👊
Watching ASA, the moment wind started catching up, I saw loads of female more than male shooters change to micro diameter arrows. The commentators mentioned that they change their sight tapes to match the micro diameter ones. I always thought it was way more than just a sight tape. What about the arrow rest blade dimensions and thickness..? Don’t think they are all using drop-away rests( correct me if wrong).
I've said this on other videos. My local shop has a rts package for $120.00 granted its not the nicest or most top of the line. Put it gets me into shooting. Then I can upgrade as I grew and develop. The package includes a quiver, site, peep, arrow rest. It would be nice of podium put a package like this together. I was wanting to order a darton consequence but trying to figure out the accessories in said screw it. I think you should out together a package of accessories and offer it as a bundle.
Could you explain setting cam timing correctly? A lot of guys rush through it on a video, but never explain which cable needs twisted.
Man I would like to see a fletching video about the different devices, ease of use for repeatability. With consideration of the home archer who isn't gonna fletch hundreds or thousands of arrows a year. Or just the best gear for the home archer in general.
He has one already. Look in his past videos. I think it was titled which fletching jig is best.
I'm interested in finding out what the absolute shortest arrow we can have is..???
🏹🏹🏹
G'day and thanks from Australia 🇦🇺
Perfect!!! That's exactly what I wanted to know..
Cheers.. 🙏
How short do you want to make your draw length? Overdraws were pretty common for hunters 30 years ago so that you could get a shorter, faster arrow. Arrow length is dictated by your draw length...crossbow bolts are pretty dang short compared to the arrows that vertical bows shoot.
Hello. This is just for reference. I have a 29" draw on my Bear Legit with a Trophy Ridge Sync MD drop away rest. I cut my arrows down to 27" carbon to carbon, and still have about 1/2" in front of the rest before the components contact the rest.
MfJJ!!!!
Start making 2 inch titanium weights for your inserts.
I really hate how bow manufacturers don't provide comprehensive set up and tuning guides for their bows. It makes the barrier of entry pretty high for most people. There's a lot of misinformation around as well. Centre shot is probably a good one to cover.
When switching arrow sizes, like 5mm to 4mm, do you have to change just the height of your rest or does that require a new knock point and moving the d loop as well?
Timing video. Michael from your shop just showed how he removed felt on Mathew’s bow to get a harder back wall and more accurate timing can you show what he means on draw board ?
What size arrow to shot 3D and targer out side (OD of the arrow) and does the vain size on larger size help? Thank you
My first bow came from yall hahaha the start of this rabbit hole and I love falling down it haha
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Llllllleeeeetttttsss ggggggggooooooo!!!!
How much pressure you should have on your front hand and how much on your release hand should your front arm be straight or a little bent. Show a camera angle of what your sight picture should look like while looking through your peep. Twisting your string vs twisting your cables what each one does and why you would do them
super straight on the point video. honestly id TAKE ANY ADVICE you give on ANYTHING ARCHERY related! love the channel and podcast cant wait for the next one
See I run my arrows a little bit longer. A lot of times because my one broadhead that's a inch and a half fixed hits the riser on my vertex if it's cocked one of those ways. So I just avoid all that by having it stop right there. Still get good tuning unless if I want a lighter arrow then I'll cut go down to a different blade and yada yada
What are your thoughts on those v style biscuits? I switched to compound about a year ago and got one for my first compound. I ended up getting one to replace the stock one and brought it in for a tune. My locao shop said they cant tune it properly because they "have had problems tuning these rests previously". Wasnt too sure if thats common or if theres another tuning problem theyre not identifying
I would suggest a video on proper grip. I have seen more than a few archers with fingers loose, not wrapped around the grip. With a broadhead and a short arrow, that could lose a finger. You did say this was 101.
Hi Josh, it's super useful. Question, how you will measure the arrow if you have an arrow rest? Just the same in full draw with the arrow rest at 90 degrees? Cheers
Would you cut it a little longer with a drop away rest so fixed blade or mechanical baldes dont interfere with the action of the rest? Thank you for such great info
3 days too late . Already cut mine at center of riser was worried about going to far to towards rest but really wanted to Wack another 1” for FOC . Thanks for the video for future reference .
Do you think changing speed nocks on hunting bows is worth it? Assuming these bows are setup from the factory to be most efficient with 350 grain arrows witch nobody hunts with these days
29” draw length and it feels so strange that I’m about to cut my arrows to 26.5”
Have you thought about selling a starter bundle for people wanting to buy stuff to start doing their own d-loop, nocking point, peep, serving ect? Basically a bundle of everything they need to do that to get started on the right path
Could you share the link to the Podium Archer Arrow Builder?
I am struggling to locate the tool. lol
Why is it that you constantly tell us to never draw a bow without an arrow nocked but you continue to draw your bows with your barehand without an arrow 🤔🤷♂️🤦♂️
I’d love to see a video on how to fix peep twisting when pulling my bow back. Because that will makes me want to pull my hair out
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Whats the advantages and disadvantages of shooting a drop rest vs whisker biscut? New to bow hunting
MFJJ thank you for being the “always available expert.”
I’d like to see how you use your bow square to determine where to tie your nocking points.
What measurements do you use and do you tie the top or bottom nocking point tight to the arrow.
Thanks
I've heard another train of thought, but it ends up close to this, if not a little longer. You can find out where the 'node' of your arrow is by holding it at the nock and tapping the shaft at something hard like a table. There is a spot, close behind the point/insert where there's no bounce. That's where the arrow will flex around, and the shaft might be best supported there since it doesn't move at launch.
Will this make your arrows shot faster? Would you need to change site tape for example?
What’s the proper way to shoot your bow? I got into multiple shops and each time I ask I get a deferent opinion
Cutting stiffens the arrow. Question should that effect what spine you choose before cutting?
I asked in your other video this week. Please do a video on peep twist and how many times you might have to twist your string. And upper vs lower string twists.
Dumb question how do you pick the right arrow spine I get the average and the boxes but which is better
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How about how to rebuild a bow or how feasible is it to replace say a damaged limb on a used bow that is no longer in production? I know the short answer is just go buy a new one but for those who can't what is realistic or your best options?
A video on how to adjust a scope head and scope rod would be nice and simple. X,Y,Z axis.
Josh, please cover nocking points. Tied or brass, ect...
Is that 1/2 on a stationary arrow launcher? Or a drop down arrow launcher in the upright position?
I’m almost all the way in on doing a lot myself, what’s a decent priced arrow saw ???
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How far back should I start my fletchings?
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Thank you for the great information 👍 and perfect timing because I just ordered an arrow saw a bow vise and a bunch of other tuning tools so now im no longer reliant on my Loca shop for simple adjustments 👍
Since you’re beginning with the arrow, how about one on arrow spine. How to chose correctly
how about a low poundage arrow build for our wives/girlfriends
Can you explain the benefits between 3 and 4 fletchings.
If you don’t have a draw board how much shorter than your draw length should you cut your arrows
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