although I've already seen the outcome in person and been in it, it was so satisfying as your friend to see that cheeky grin and the moment of competition! proper happy for you!
So pleased success was on the menu today !!! Thanks for explaining so clearly the differences in the blocks. I was not aware of these ! This info is a huge help. Wishing you continued success with the build Pamo .....
so glad i came across you on youtube. just at the point of putting my head on- m50 iron block m54 crank and pistons king race bearings everything arp 135mm forged rods total seal custom rings m54b30 intake m52b28 exhaust going ces cut ring and copper spacer tho big single turbo twin disk clutch cannot wait, been building for 4 years now, started as a 1.6l lol, getting close now tho. thank you for taking the time to upload all your videos.
A 2.5 m50 Windage tray will interfere with the long throw crank you are using. You need a Windage tray from a 2.8liter or more with an iron block. You could probably clearance the m50 one if you wind up in a bind.
Really glad this time it went all good. But I was wondering: wouldn't have been better to get an m52b28 iron block from the US instead of the M50? That way you would not have had problems with the M52 oil pump. Also, why did you decide to go for the non-vanos block? Not sure if that makes any difference, but I remember you had the vanos intake cam from the M54
I shudder to think how much it would have cost to get a US block over here. I paid £110 for the m50. As for the vanos non vanos stuff... Doesn't seem any different by block. Its mostly differences in the head.
So what did you end up having to do to the oil baffle plate/tray? The info online is all over the place. Some people use spacers to get the B30 crank to clear the M50 plate. But you seemingly had no issues?
Pamo thanks for the taking the time to reply. I assume the used something like a Glyco standard size bearing set? Please keep up the videos, really enjoying them and very informative. Fingers crossed you get the power figures you want.
Just rewatching the video and see you mention about the different coloured dots for the different size bearings? I have a new pack of bearings originally purchased for m52 block before I pulled some threads refitting the head and changed to an m50 block, all bearings are the same size expect the thrust one? Am I wrong in thinking that?
The dots denote different size journals and we're used by the factory. If you were buying bearings from bmw you would buy the corresponding sizes. Don't panic though, if you've bought aftermarket std bearings you should be fine, the tolerance is quite large. Grab a packet of plastigauge and check a couple to be sure 👍
@@ManSeeksCivic thanks mate, I was worried for a second.. Second question, the bearings that are in the m50 block have 2 holes in the bearing on the engine side, one hole where the oil squiter goes and one in the normal place, the new bearings have one hole. But all bearings are listed as fitted all model of engine from m20 to m54 and all in-between. The m52 block only has single holes as they oil squitters are in a different place. Hope that makes sense..
@@ManSeeksCivic any reason for the 2 holes? Uprated bearings? Not sure if engine had a rebuild previously, as if was alot cleaner than any other i have worked on.
I may end up having a few questions to ask as I'm currently undertaking the same engine build as you, but to begin with, did you rebuild your oil pump or was it a known good unit that you just lockwired?
It was the one that came from my m52 that I drilled the nut and lock wired with stainless wire. I installed an oil pressure gauge so pressure can be monitored constantly and I am always glancing at it to keep an eye on things.
So the baffle tray had no interference? Would this be the same if you were to have used the M50 oil pump? Also if ur using the M50 pump would u need to weld on that bracket still?
No, and I turned the engine over tens of times before I decided it didn't. As for the pump, I'm not 100% sure but I believe they are different shapes and the sump is different so had to stick with this setup.
Did you have issues using the m50nvb25 intake camshaft on the exhaust? On mine I had a hard time finding a machine shop that'd cut down the face of the camshaft 2.25mm where the sprocket bolts up due to the factory timing block at the back of the camshaft preventing it from sitting true in a lathe. I did end up finding a place that'd do it but for $250 usd yikes!
@@becomematrix thank you for the quick reply! I appreciate your videos, especially the door handle replacement and the m50 stroker build. Now my passenger door handle works thanks to you 😊
Gama haha you mean Pamo! S50us or s50euro? I think s50 euro is a great engine but breakers ask loads of money for a beat up s50. If you have a 325 already it pays off to stroke it with an m54b30. But as always it can get expensive when adding stuff and making it nicer.
@@becomematrix oh whoops, sorry for mistaking you!! Still, thank you for replying. I am in the US and I have a m50b25tu but I'm trying to decide how much all together it would cost to rebuild the m50 as a stroker compared to buying a used s50 US. This includes trying to make the m50 reliable
That sonic music during the head bolts was great! 😁
although I've already seen the outcome in person and been in it, it was so satisfying as your friend to see that cheeky grin and the moment of competition! proper happy for you!
I hope it will be good. You deserved it. Cheers!
Congrats! So excited to see it come together!
I can't wait to see it finished!
So pleased success was on the menu today !!! Thanks for explaining so clearly the differences in the blocks. I was not aware of these ! This info is a huge help. Wishing you continued success with the build Pamo .....
so glad i came across you on youtube. just at the point of putting my head on-
m50 iron block
m54 crank and pistons
king race bearings
everything arp
135mm forged rods
total seal custom rings
m54b30 intake
m52b28 exhaust
going ces cut ring and copper spacer tho
big single turbo
twin disk clutch
cannot wait, been building for 4 years now, started as a 1.6l lol, getting close now tho. thank you for taking the time to upload all your videos.
Thank you for watching them and good luck. Sounds like a nice build 👍
I crossed my toes for you the whole time. You’re welcome.
I felt those vibes along the way toeman. Thanks. 👍
M52 oil pump is said to have more volume due to the vanos requirement
Even if it won't be good ot WILL be good after going through all this. Good to see it's m
Coming together.
A 2.5 m50 Windage tray will interfere with the long throw crank you are using. You need a Windage tray from a 2.8liter or more with an iron block. You could probably clearance the m50 one if you wind up in a bind.
Can you use the m50 vanos block as well ??
Yeah, no problem..
Really glad this time it went all good. But I was wondering: wouldn't have been better to get an m52b28 iron block from the US instead of the M50? That way you would not have had problems with the M52 oil pump. Also, why did you decide to go for the non-vanos block? Not sure if that makes any difference, but I remember you had the vanos intake cam from the M54
I shudder to think how much it would have cost to get a US block over here. I paid £110 for the m50. As for the vanos non vanos stuff... Doesn't seem any different by block. Its mostly differences in the head.
So what did you end up having to do to the oil baffle plate/tray? The info online is all over the place. Some people use spacers to get the B30 crank to clear the M50 plate. But you seemingly had no issues?
Forgive my poor memory, but I believe I used the m50 stock plate with stock rod bolts and had no issues with clearance at all.
@@ManSeeksCivic Ok, so the people who have clearance issues are using ARP rod bolts i guess?
Maybe, everything else being equal there must be some variable that folks get stuck with.
Great video series!
Sorry if I missed it but how did you resolve the different bearing sizes on the M50 block with the M54 crank?
The bearings I used were all in spec across the journals. If I had bought bmw bearings I would have had to buy 2 different sizes I believe.
Pamo thanks for the taking the time to reply. I assume the used something like a Glyco standard size bearing set?
Please keep up the videos, really enjoying them and very informative. Fingers crossed you get the power figures you want.
So u used stock block M50 Bearings right ?
@@MrHeadshot05 M54 std size King Bearings.
Pamo thx a lot mate. Did you Shave the block or the head to get that CR up ? I think no because u use M54 pistons.
Just rewatching the video and see you mention about the different coloured dots for the different size bearings? I have a new pack of bearings originally purchased for m52 block before I pulled some threads refitting the head and changed to an m50 block, all bearings are the same size expect the thrust one? Am I wrong in thinking that?
The dots denote different size journals and we're used by the factory. If you were buying bearings from bmw you would buy the corresponding sizes.
Don't panic though, if you've bought aftermarket std bearings you should be fine, the tolerance is quite large. Grab a packet of plastigauge and check a couple to be sure 👍
@@ManSeeksCivic thanks mate, I was worried for a second.. Second question, the bearings that are in the m50 block have 2 holes in the bearing on the engine side, one hole where the oil squiter goes and one in the normal place, the new bearings have one hole. But all bearings are listed as fitted all model of engine from m20 to m54 and all in-between. The m52 block only has single holes as they oil squitters are in a different place. Hope that makes sense..
That's cool, the ones I use are the same. 👍
@@ManSeeksCivic any reason for the 2 holes? Uprated bearings? Not sure if engine had a rebuild previously, as if was alot cleaner than any other i have worked on.
I'm sorry, I'm not sure why there's a difference. Always nice to find a gem 😊
Then you HAD to add the music with the head bolts. You had me bricking it.
I may end up having a few questions to ask as I'm currently undertaking the same engine build as you, but to begin with, did you rebuild your oil pump or was it a known good unit that you just lockwired?
It was the one that came from my m52 that I drilled the nut and lock wired with stainless wire. I installed an oil pressure gauge so pressure can be monitored constantly and I am always glancing at it to keep an eye on things.
@@ManSeeksCivic okay, sounds like a plan! Cheers
You're welcome - good luck with your build.
So the baffle tray had no interference? Would this be the same if you were to have used the M50 oil pump? Also if ur using the M50 pump would u need to weld on that bracket still?
No, and I turned the engine over tens of times before I decided it didn't. As for the pump, I'm not 100% sure but I believe they are different shapes and the sump is different so had to stick with this setup.
Pamo awesome probably gonna get into mine after Christmas these videos are great man good luck & happy holidays
Did you have issues using the m50nvb25 intake camshaft on the exhaust? On mine I had a hard time finding a machine shop that'd cut down the face of the camshaft 2.25mm where the sprocket bolts up due to the factory timing block at the back of the camshaft preventing it from sitting true in a lathe. I did end up finding a place that'd do it but for $250 usd yikes!
Luckily I work next to a small machine shop and know the owner. He cut it for me for £20.
Nice, money saver! Looking forward to your next video!
Would it be more cost effective to stroke the m50 than finding an s50 and swapping it?
Gama yes. S50 will sell for 5k+ freshly rebuilt stroker 3.0 maybe halfish
@@becomematrix thank you for the quick reply! I appreciate your videos, especially the door handle replacement and the m50 stroker build. Now my passenger door handle works thanks to you 😊
Gama haha you mean Pamo!
S50us or s50euro? I think s50 euro is a great engine but breakers ask loads of money for a beat up s50. If you have a 325 already it pays off to stroke it with an m54b30. But as always it can get expensive when adding stuff and making it nicer.
@@becomematrix oh whoops, sorry for mistaking you!! Still, thank you for replying. I am in the US and I have a m50b25tu but I'm trying to decide how much all together it would cost to rebuild the m50 as a stroker compared to buying a used s50 US. This includes trying to make the m50 reliable
Gama s50 us is basically a 325 stroker. Find a 330 block and go from there. I will link you a good video.
Wait so ur taking a 2.5 and stoking it to a 2.8 when u already had a 2.8 when u started
No I'm using all sorts of parts but essentially it'll be a 2.8 stroked to 3.0.
Looking forward to shitting myself in the same way when torquing up the head bolts on my M50
You'll be fine with good old Iron. Good Luck
"Krimi" in german ;)
"The foulest stench across the land, the midnight hour is close at hand..... " 😂