Keep all the receipts for the parts used on your oil changes. These engines are known to burn oil. The dealer will try to deny your warranty claim if you don't have the receipts.
Good job. The wide oil drain pan used in this video is critical. If you use a normal-sized round pan to catch the draining oil on this Subaru, which has an oil drain plug aimed to the side (instead of straight down), the draining oil will first overshoot the pan, then quickly slow to a dribble on the other side of the pan, making a big mess. I am glad that I had cardboard under the pan, and plenty of rags available!
Thanks for sharing this!! I can't wait to do this. Never changed my own oil before, but after spending $90 at the dealer for a oil change, I'm definitely going to from here on out.
Me too! First time oil change(at 63!) but $130 + tax at shop compared to $52 all in says to me "learn yourself!" Thanks for the video and clear list of parts needed 😊
Excellent video 👍 I’ve been a mechanic since 1980’s we just got a Subaru outback I wanted to watch someone do a oil change before I did ours I like how you suggested using the frame on the car for a Jack point , the warning about double o ring on the filter seen that one ruin an engine back in the day and disposing of the used oil properly You get an A+ And a bandaid 😉
Good video. Yes Subaru has reduced the head on the drain plug to 14 mm on newer models. 0W-20 is the correct spec for the 2.5 engine. One suggestion though, I'd go with the OEM Subaru filter or with a Wix 57055 or NAPA Gold 7055 filter. To my knowledge these are the only filters that meet Subaru's spec for bypass pressure. Most other filters go into bypass mode at about 1/2 the psi than these.
My dealer never specified if the oil is Synthetic but I figured it out all by myself. Its a pretty thin oil but honestly the car seems to run well on it. In the old days, you were told never to run a new engine on synthetic or the rings would never properly break in. My guess is technology has changed alot since then. I will say people were going crazy after buying these cars because they would burn oil for the first 10k before breaking in. I had to add a quart since buying the vehicle at 48k. It has just over 50k now. I would consider that normal on any vehicle anyways. The manual states these vehicles normally use oil and should be considered normal. If your vehicle didnt use oil, it wouldnt last long. Good point about the oil filter gasket. I remember I couldnt figure out why one of my cars oil filter wouldnt go on right after taking off the old filter. The old gaske had stayed stuck to the engine block. I removed the filter again and there it was! I could have had a real MESS on my hands had I not realized the filter was not going on right. I hammer that into my wifes head too...check your oil! Once a month! I dont care how new it is.
I had a Nissan Juke that said to change the crush washer every time. I never did and after 5 years of oil changes it never once leaked. I put a flat clean metal pan under it for a few days to check.
That's true you can do that, but it is good practice to change it every oil change. Especially since you can buy them for less than a dollar. Also if its a shop, for legal reasons they should always change it
Good video. Glad you mentioned the 31 ft pounds of torque on the oil drain plug. Where did you find that oil filter wrench and what is the part number of the oil filter wrench?
For a simple oil change, a cheaper torque wrench is fine. I eould use one and change that crush washer. You can get them from Autozone cheaper. Its a crush washer, not a piston ring set or EGR valve.
Over time torque wrenches can lose their calibration, if they were ever properly calibrated in the first place. For years I have preferred the simple type of torque wrench that uses a pointer. As long as it still looks like a torque wrench you know it's accurate.
Mine came with a solid copper or brass washer that seems to be fine. I checked with Autozone and the local parts place and they told me my engine shows they do not use the crush washer. It didnt even come up as a part number for my model. The parts guy told me as long as it doesnt leak reuse the washer that came with it. I have owned several Subarus and never saw one with a bronze washer. I still ended up buying two crush washers. I will keep them in the glove box. My dad used to say use what it came with unless there is an issue. Wierd though.
Yeah, some companies will switch to a smaller size head when they have problems with people over torquing them. I have no idea why Subaru decided to round off the corners though. Maybe it's to scare the guys who are over torquing them but it seems like a bad idea.
Yup, I just did my first oil change myself on this car ( the first 4 were free from the dealer) and the bolt was so tight I stripped it bald. Had to weld a crappy wrench to it then used a breaker bar on that. First time I have had to use that trick in many, many years. It finally came off! I installed a Fumoto after that :-)
Thats EXACTLY why I do my own. I took my vehicle to the dealer once and they even stripped all the threads out of the plug hole, then tryed to stuff a cheap srlf tapping leaking plug in but it didnt even make it out of the bay. Then they tryed to CHARGE ME for a repair kit. Saying I Probably over tightened the plug. I told them if they charged me, I would sue them . They ended up fixing THEIR mistake and I never took the vehicle back to them again.
@@howtoforyou9380 The manual is states this engine uses oil. Its running a 20-0 oil...almost pisswater. In the old days you were told NEVER run synthetic oil in the engine until everything had a chance to break in. Usually 3k miles. Think about it. These engines are running an oil that is thinner than any oil I have ever seen used in any vehicle. I have read where guys are switching to 5W 20 and the oil consumption issues go away. As mine averages one quart every 3k I can live with that. Unless it becomes acessive, I wont change it. I live in Northern Mi and getting minus 40 degree temps in January is nothing new. I am not too worried about it. Synthetics naturally run thinner than conventional oils anyways. I quit using it most of my older cars because as soon as a gasket started to leak, that synthetic would blow out the leak faster than you could add it back in. I would then switch to the high miles oil with gasket swelling propertys and no more oil leaks. I see the are starting to add it to synthetic oils now.
Depends on what oil and filter you buy. I'm using Mobile 1 synthetic and genuine Subaru filters which ends up being around $38 or less if I can find a sale on the oil.
You forgot to say it's important to change the oil when it's warm so all the crap is held in suspension and all of the oil flows out fast and completely.
That oil is so thin, its going to come out anyways. You are correct though. Its better to run it a few minutes before changing the oil. I prefer it luke warm. I actually feel the oil pan , ifvits warm, thats long enough. I hate getting a hot fudge hand while doing an oil change. ( thats what my wifes cousin calls it). Wear gloves! oil is a carcinogen. Causes cancer if absorbed through the skin.
Subaru Lube Technician here , yes, 17mm or 14mm for some reason it's really a mixed bag of which size you are going to get , but the rest of the process is the same ! I think it depends on if it was made in Japan or America
Hey easy oil change. You could just siphon most of the oil out, diluted it with cheaper Shell oil and further siphon it out, change new filter and add in new oil?
Why? Could you please explain your reasoning behind that type of procedure? I spent some serious time going over what you said in my head and it STILL doesnt make any sense. 0-20 oil is almost like water as it is.
It's a pretty versatile car. We've towed boats and camp trailers with ease. My wife has gotten up to 36 mpg with it which is pretty amazing for an AWD wagon. The only problems we've had is a leaky battery and the engine started to consume oil.
@@howtoforyou9380 How many miles on yours? If you read the manual, it even states these vehicles consume oil. Adding a quart every 3k is NOT unreasonable. Thats what mine averages and thats livable.My 2010 Forester averaged a quart every 3k. I did discover after a while it developed a head gasket issue. Not uncommon for the 2010 model year.
@@scottfirman Actually, a quart every 3k is unreasonable. It shouldn't leak like that. I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota that doesn't consume 1/4 of a quart in a year. That said, I hope that Subaru fixed the oil consumption issue in later versions. I've got my eyes on some 2017-18 models that are slightly used. Love these vehicles, but didn't know that it consumed that much. I do know that if you're an owner that participated in the class action lawsuit for said consumption, your warranty just got extended to 8yr 100,000 mi. and as long as you have receipts, like he said earlier, they'll replace like 6 qts of oil costs for you, filters, rental cars for certain repairs etc. www.torquenews.com/1084/subaru-settles-oil-consumption-lawsuit
@@MegaThrilla A quart per 3K miles is typical for most engines - only some can do better than that - I have a 2002 GMC with the 5.3L V8 with 165K miles on it and it uses about a quart in 3000 miles the same as it did when brand new. Engine still runs like new.
No. I read many forums where guys switched to a 5- w20 and it eliminated the oil consumption issue. Mine uses a quart every 3k miles, to me thats not unreasonable. Anything more than that and I am switching. If you are past your drive train warrenty of 60k , do what you feel best for you. The dealer IS NOT going to fix it beyond 60k anyways.
RC Hobbyist Extreme Eh doesn’t make any sense as 0w-20 and 5w-20 are almost the same in terms of viscosity and once up to temp (which is when oil burn would occur) it’s the same viscosity. The “w” part is the winter rating only so 0w is will flow better and less viscous at cold start up temps but unless you’re in really really cold climates it doesn’t matter much.
@@scottfirman I understand 5-30 is used in the rest of the world except N. America? I have a 2015 Outback with 107000 miles using a quart of Idemetsu 0-20 every 2500 miles. I plan to switch to 5-30 Idemetsu next time as recommended by Subaru Techs, then back to 0-20 Nov.-Feb. for ski season.
Keep all the receipts for the parts used on your oil changes. These engines are known to burn oil. The dealer will try to deny your warranty claim if you don't have the receipts.
Totally agree. I have a 2014 2.5L and I'm down a quart every 5K. Never had this issue with my other vehicles.
Good job. The wide oil drain pan used in this video is critical. If you use a normal-sized round pan to catch the draining oil on this Subaru, which has an oil drain plug aimed to the side (instead of straight down), the draining oil will first overshoot the pan, then quickly slow to a dribble on the other side of the pan, making a big mess. I am glad that I had cardboard under the pan, and plenty of rags available!
Thanks for sharing this!! I can't wait to do this. Never changed my own oil before, but after spending $90 at the dealer for a oil change, I'm definitely going to from here on out.
Me too! First time oil change(at 63!) but $130 + tax at shop compared to $52 all in says to me "learn yourself!"
Thanks for the video and clear list of parts needed 😊
Excellent video 👍 I’ve been a mechanic since 1980’s we just got a Subaru outback I wanted to watch someone do a oil change before I did ours
I like how you suggested using the frame on the car for a Jack point , the warning about double o ring on the filter seen that one ruin an engine back in the day and disposing of the used oil properly
You get an A+
And a bandaid 😉
Great video. Accurate and concise. I used your instructions and they really helped.
Thanks! I have changed lots of oil but it doesn't hurt to see anther view. That tool for removing the filter was something new. Thanks!
Good video. Yes Subaru has reduced the head on the drain plug to 14 mm on newer models. 0W-20 is the correct spec for the 2.5 engine. One suggestion though, I'd go with the OEM Subaru filter or with a Wix 57055 or NAPA Gold 7055 filter. To my knowledge these are the only filters that meet Subaru's spec for bypass pressure. Most other filters go into bypass mode at about 1/2 the psi than these.
My dealer never specified if the oil is Synthetic but I figured it out all by myself. Its a pretty thin oil but honestly the car seems to run well on it. In the old days, you were told never to run a new engine on synthetic or the rings would never properly break in. My guess is technology has changed alot since then. I will say people were going crazy after buying these cars because they would burn oil for the first 10k before breaking in. I had to add a quart since buying the vehicle at 48k. It has just over 50k now. I would consider that normal on any vehicle anyways. The manual states these vehicles normally use oil and should be considered normal. If your vehicle didnt use oil, it wouldnt last long. Good point about the oil filter gasket. I remember I couldnt figure out why one of my cars oil filter wouldnt go on right after taking off the old filter. The old gaske had stayed stuck to the engine block. I removed the filter again and there it was! I could have had a real MESS on my hands had I not realized the filter was not going on right. I hammer that into my wifes head too...check your oil! Once a month! I dont care how new it is.
Good job over all but next time remember to losen the oil filter when drain plug is out so the used oil comes out of the old oil filter.
Thanks 👍
This is an excellent video. How are there thumb downs on this? Some people are just bad folk I guess...
Because 1 oil doesn't expand when it gets hot and 2 if you need a torque wrench to change your oil you probably shouldn't be doing it!!
Nice guy. Not full of himself.
I had a Nissan Juke that said to change the crush washer every time. I never did and after 5 years of oil changes it never once leaked. I put a flat clean metal pan under it for a few days to check.
That's true you can do that, but it is good practice to change it every oil change. Especially since you can buy them for less than a dollar. Also if its a shop, for legal reasons they should always change it
5 quarts should be good enough? sucks to buy an extra quarts for the 5.1 quarts
Thank you, I needed this video
Excellent video. I have been trying to get a service manual for my 2016 Outback. Does anyone know where I can get one of them?
Good job. Excellent directions.
Excellent review !! Thanks
Good video. Glad you mentioned the 31 ft pounds of torque on the oil drain plug. Where did you find that oil filter wrench and what is the part number of the oil filter wrench?
It's a Bluepoint, part number: FWA6296. Harbor Freight makes a knockoff for around $9.
For a simple oil change, a cheaper torque wrench is fine. I eould use one and change that crush washer. You can get them from Autozone cheaper. Its a crush washer, not a piston ring set or EGR valve.
Over time torque wrenches can lose their calibration, if they were ever properly calibrated in the first place. For years I have preferred the simple type of torque wrench that uses a pointer. As long as it still looks like a torque wrench you know it's accurate.
Thanks for the video. 31 ft. lbs.? Isn't the correct torque 18 ft. lbs. for 108 model?
always a little moment of stress when you are waiting for the torque spanner to "click" when dealing with thin oil pan and long spanner.
Great video! Off to do my Forester!
Mine came with a solid copper or brass washer that seems to be fine. I checked with Autozone and the local parts place and they told me my engine shows they do not use the crush washer. It didnt even come up as a part number for my model. The parts guy told me as long as it doesnt leak reuse the washer that came with it. I have owned several Subarus and never saw one with a bronze washer. I still ended up buying two crush washers. I will keep them in the glove box. My dad used to say use what it came with unless there is an issue. Wierd though.
I agree with the parts guy. As long as it doesn't leak you're good.
anyone with newer legacy models having engine oil burning issues? i read online where the prior models/years had nothing but engine oil burning issues
17mm? My 2017 2.5i uses a 14mm plug with rounded edges and I just learned it strips easily after dealer over tightened it during last oil change
Yeah, some companies will switch to a smaller size head when they have problems with people over torquing them. I have no idea why Subaru decided to round off the corners though. Maybe it's to scare the guys who are over torquing them but it seems like a bad idea.
Yup, I just did my first oil change myself on this car ( the first 4 were free from the dealer) and the bolt was so tight I stripped it bald. Had to weld a crappy wrench to it then used a breaker bar on that. First time I have had to use that trick in many, many years. It finally came off! I installed a Fumoto after that :-)
Thats EXACTLY why I do my own. I took my vehicle to the dealer once and they even stripped all the threads out of the plug hole, then tryed to stuff a cheap srlf tapping leaking plug in but it didnt even make it out of the bay. Then they tryed to CHARGE ME for a repair kit. Saying I Probably over tightened the plug. I told them if they charged me, I would sue them . They ended up fixing THEIR mistake and I never took the vehicle back to them again.
Yeah, when I first saw it was 14mm on my 2017 I got a bit excited and thought maybe it was from a repair kit.
Great video, any problems with oil on the plastic belly pan or does it wipe off easily?
It wipes up pretty easily. Try to pay attention to how much oil comes out when you change it. Some of these engines are known to consume oil.
@@howtoforyou9380 The manual is states this engine uses oil. Its running a 20-0 oil...almost pisswater. In the old days you were told NEVER run synthetic oil in the engine until everything had a chance to break in. Usually 3k miles. Think about it. These engines are running an oil that is thinner than any oil I have ever seen used in any vehicle. I have read where guys are switching to 5W 20 and the oil consumption issues go away. As mine averages one quart every 3k I can live with that. Unless it becomes acessive, I wont change it. I live in Northern Mi and getting minus 40 degree temps in January is nothing new. I am not too worried about it. Synthetics naturally run thinner than conventional oils anyways. I quit using it most of my older cars because as soon as a gasket started to leak, that synthetic would blow out the leak faster than you could add it back in. I would then switch to the high miles oil with gasket swelling propertys and no more oil leaks. I see the are starting to add it to synthetic oils now.
So , how much money am I saving by doing it myself? My dealership charges $80
Depends on what oil and filter you buy. I'm using Mobile 1 synthetic and genuine Subaru filters which ends up being around $38 or less if I can find a sale on the oil.
I was able to get oil and a filter for 30 bucks.
My dealer charges $140
You forgot to say it's important to change the oil when it's warm so all the crap is held in suspension and all of the oil flows out fast and completely.
That oil is so thin, its going to come out anyways. You are correct though. Its better to run it a few minutes before changing the oil. I prefer it luke warm. I actually feel the oil pan , ifvits warm, thats long enough. I hate getting a hot fudge hand while doing an oil change. ( thats what my wifes cousin calls it). Wear gloves! oil is a carcinogen. Causes cancer if absorbed through the skin.
Have. 2019 - a 14 mm socket fit
Did they switch to a 14mm nut for the 2017 model???
I believe so. The corners on them are a little different so using a 6 point socket would be a good idea.
Subaru Lube Technician here , yes, 17mm or 14mm for some reason it's really a mixed bag of which size you are going to get , but the rest of the process is the same ! I think it depends on if it was made in Japan or America
I have a 2019 and it is 14mm
Hey easy oil change. You could just siphon most of the oil out, diluted it with cheaper Shell oil and further siphon it out, change new filter and add in new oil?
Why? Could you please explain your reasoning behind that type of procedure? I spent some serious time going over what you said in my head and it STILL doesnt make any sense. 0-20 oil is almost like water as it is.
“She’s loose now”
How do you like your outback?
It's a pretty versatile car. We've towed boats and camp trailers with ease. My wife has gotten up to 36 mpg with it which is pretty amazing for an AWD wagon. The only problems we've had is a leaky battery and the engine started to consume oil.
I have one and LOVE IT! Besides replacing the undersized battery that was placed in it( not even OEM) I havent had any issues. Mine has 50k on it now.
@@howtoforyou9380 How many miles on yours? If you read the manual, it even states these vehicles consume oil. Adding a quart every 3k is NOT unreasonable. Thats what mine averages and thats livable.My 2010 Forester averaged a quart every 3k. I did discover after a while it developed a head gasket issue. Not uncommon for the 2010 model year.
@@scottfirman Actually, a quart every 3k is unreasonable. It shouldn't leak like that. I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota that doesn't consume 1/4 of a quart in a year. That said, I hope that Subaru fixed the oil consumption issue in later versions. I've got my eyes on some 2017-18 models that are slightly used. Love these vehicles, but didn't know that it consumed that much. I do know that if you're an owner that participated in the class action lawsuit for said consumption, your warranty just got extended to 8yr 100,000 mi. and as long as you have receipts, like he said earlier, they'll replace like 6 qts of oil costs for you, filters, rental cars for certain repairs etc. www.torquenews.com/1084/subaru-settles-oil-consumption-lawsuit
@@MegaThrilla A quart per 3K miles is typical for most engines - only some can do better than that - I have a 2002 GMC with the 5.3L V8 with 165K miles on it and it uses about a quart in 3000 miles the same as it did when brand new. Engine still runs like new.
So, it must be 0-20?
yes
No. I read many forums where guys switched to a 5- w20 and it eliminated the oil consumption issue. Mine uses a quart every 3k miles, to me thats not unreasonable. Anything more than that and I am switching. If you are past your drive train warrenty of 60k , do what you feel best for you. The dealer IS NOT going to fix it beyond 60k anyways.
RC Hobbyist Extreme Eh doesn’t make any sense as 0w-20 and 5w-20 are almost the same in terms of viscosity and once up to temp (which is when oil burn would occur) it’s the same viscosity. The “w” part is the winter rating only so 0w is will flow better and less viscous at cold start up temps but unless you’re in really really cold climates it doesn’t matter much.
@@scottfirman I understand 5-30 is used in the rest of the world except N. America? I have a 2015 Outback with 107000 miles using a quart of Idemetsu 0-20 every 2500 miles. I plan to switch to 5-30 Idemetsu next time as recommended by Subaru Techs, then back to 0-20 Nov.-Feb. for ski season.
5 quarts, plus 1/2 bottle of Ceratec.
Dude did you just say "fart number"? 1:05
joe lacatena he did lol
LOL
Its not a 2.5i its a 2.5 flat
The i designation stands for i-active valve lift system from what I've been told. The i in i-active stands for intelligent.
Oh my bad