Very interesting and useful. One important correction though. While raw linseed oil is safe to consume, boiled linseed is neither safe or natural. Instead, most boiled linseed oil has added chemical drying agents and often includes heavy metals. Sunnyside is not the worst, but it does contain cobalt manganese salts. I would recommend either looking for a true chemical-free boiled linseed oil or a polymerized linseed oil instead.
I could watch your videos all day long. The part about the BOILED linseed oil cracked me up! Thank you for showing us these ways to brings small things back to life!
I’ve heard of doing it in crock pot but I’m thrilled that there’s more to it. I really like this way of cleaning up old hardware. They look absolutely beautiful. Thanks Laine for sharing n much education on getting your old hedges just like new. ♥️😊👍👍
Loving this so much! You are not only giving Louise new life you’re sharing your knowledge and skills along the way. One question - does the linseed oil have to evaporate? Is that how you know you’ve given it enough time? Thanks and Great video!!! ❤️
If the paint is lead, as most paint that old is, would you recommend using rags or old T-shirt that can be thrown away? Your results are beautiful! Also, I’ve used clear, spray on varnish on all sides of the hinges after I’m done , especially if they are going to be in a bathroom or other damp area to protect them from rusting. Is that something you would recommend? Thanks for your videos, they are so inspiring!
Not so fast chief. You will still have to brush and scrape paint even with a heated ultrasound cleaner. Although it could be quicker to get the step where it is easy to remove paint without all these steps.
@@nthnsome pretty much any and all paint comes off, even 2k and powder coat, sometimes you just need a little extra kick in a form of acetone. Put your item in a poly bag + acetone, dip the whole thing in the sonicator, and presto, paint is gone.
Many of the screws were damaged because they were so difficult to take out. We’re a little sorry we don’t have them anymore but we will do our best to find matching screws. Preferably Philips heads.
Love this video! One of the best I’ve seen to show how to restore. Do you know if this process can be used if there is bakelite or plastic on the hardware? I purchased 10 Art Deco pulls locally, but only 1 was original. All the others were painted black (!) & I want to strip them back to original. I’ve tried other products from other videos w/no success. They are beautiful, but not so much all in black spray paint.
Hi Diane, I don't think I'd try it on bakelight. I'm afraid the acidity of the vinegar would discolor or even melt the material. You might try some straight acetone, and swab it on with a qtip. You might also test Smart Strip by Drummond on them and see if that might work. It is a water based product and our favorite chemical stripper.
So great! I am doing the door hardware on a 1916 beauty - but no matter how hard I try I cant get the steel wool into the intricate details of the knobs leaving a contrast of copper and black - instead of all copper. Any suggestions for getting the "crevice" detail restored as well?
Great demonstration. It appears the black paint in the low spots survived stripping. Is that true? How do you manage to strip the surface you want to strip while leaving the black alone. If not, how do you re-apply black paint to those areas without covering the entire hinge? Thank you!
@@OurRestorationNation Thanks for the reply and I agree about light variation! I've been searching high and low for information on how to re-paint the recessed areas black so they look more nearly original. Really appreciate the help.
I've read that boiled linseed oil should not be used on moving parts because it becomes gummy and can impede the hardware's ability to move. Have you found that after allowing it to dry for 3-4 days? I like the idea of just dipping it and letting it sit but am a bit worried that my hinge will be all gummed up eventually. Nice video. Thank you.
So I did this, the boiled linseed oil is still sticky after over a week. Also it pooled in one area and made a darkened mark... what should I do now? reclean them all?
In cleaning some door knobs and plate it looks like the metal might be some cheaper material. Maybe even aluminum, which I totally was not expecting. It also looks like it had a copper colored veneer. What do you think this is? They look very old.
I love your video and it worked great until the linseed oil. I have had them drying for 2 weeks in the sun and it is still an oily sticky mess. I used exactly what you did. Do you have a suggestion for getting the mess off and fixing it?
Did you use boiled linseed oil, because that does make a difference. If you did and it’s still sticky you can just wipe them down well with a towel and they should be good
@@cindymead2707 I experienced the same. I restored encasement window hardware, door knobs, door and keyhole rosettes, window locks. I dipped everything in boiled linseed oil and set them aside to dry. It's been over a month and they are still not fully dry -- there are places where the oil pooled and have semi-dried into a drip formation that is sticky to the touch. Cindy, did boiling the hardware remove the sticky linseed oil?
This person baked his hardware that he dipped in linseed oil but he used a work over (which I don't have), not a regular cooking oven. So I wasn't sure this method was a safe way to "cook off" the excess, sticky, goopy linseed oil in my own cooking oven. So I will try boiling instead. ruclips.net/video/SuOT5OmOg-Y/видео.html
115 year old Victorian house here. For me, the linseed oil never really "dried". Even months later it stayed like goop. Very jelly-like substance that is still sticky. That was the only part of this process that didn't work for me. Any suggestions?
What would you recommend if after removing the paint and sealer via this method, I wanted to make the hardware (Eastlake Bin Pulls) black so they match my cabinet knobs? I don't want to apply a product that is too thick and hide the pattern, but want the black finish.
@ourrestorationnation What if there is lead in the paint? How do you dispose of the crock pot water and the vinegar if they contain lead paint fragments?
1) don’t eat the lead🤣 2) don’t ever use the crock pot for food prep 3) bag the water and paint in a black plastic bag, seal with duct tape and label. It can be disposed of in the trash and the landfill will deal with it appropriately And remember- it’s MINUSCULE amounts of lead at that point, equivalent to what is in the water naturally.
Would mineral oil work? or could you bake it with vegetable oil like a cast iron pan? I don't wanna buy a whole thing of linseed oil for a couple of pieces
I wouldn’t know about the other two items you’ve mentioned. I use linseed oil because it prevents rust and will “set” in the sun. I don’t know what would happen, as I generally don’t recommend using products for purposes other than their intended use?
One important thing, if you have a depression era dresser that has pulls with Bakelite as part of the design, Don’t use this method! The Bakelite will disintegrate! Lesson learned for all of you! By me
Very interesting and useful. One important correction though. While raw linseed oil is safe to consume, boiled linseed is neither safe or natural. Instead, most boiled linseed oil has added chemical drying agents and often includes heavy metals. Sunnyside is not the worst, but it does contain cobalt manganese salts. I would recommend either looking for a true chemical-free boiled linseed oil or a polymerized linseed oil instead.
I could watch your videos all day long. The part about the BOILED linseed oil cracked me up! Thank you for showing us these ways to brings small things back to life!
I'm happy you showed the oil part, I did the crockpot for 1920's plated hardware, and it rusted through the plating bc I didn't have that step
I’ve heard of doing it in crock pot but I’m thrilled that there’s more to it. I really like this way of cleaning up old hardware. They look absolutely beautiful.
Thanks Laine for sharing n much education on getting your old hedges just like new.
♥️😊👍👍
Love this! Currently doing this to some of my hardware from my great granparents place I've been restoring!!! Thank you so much dear!
8:35:00 are we at the beginning of the dark ages :( :( thank you for restoring these beautiful pieces
Loving this so much! You are not only giving Louise new life you’re sharing your knowledge and skills along the way.
One question - does the linseed oil have to evaporate? Is that how you know you’ve given it enough time?
Thanks and Great video!!! ❤️
darlenevm yes!
Sh e stated it could take 2 days or 4 days ...etc. Just wait until it has evaporated.
If the paint is lead, as most paint that old is, would you recommend using rags or old T-shirt that can be thrown away? Your results are beautiful! Also, I’ve used clear, spray on varnish on all sides of the hinges after I’m done , especially if they are going to be in a bathroom or other damp area to protect them from rusting. Is that something you would recommend? Thanks for your videos, they are so inspiring!
Great tutorial!!!
Wow! I'm with you. I avoid chemicals at all costs. Thanks so much for sharing the process.
We use old crock pots and fabric softeners. 3 hrs on lo and the paint strips off
Holly crap, soooo much work, lol. Just drop them in a heated ultra sound cleaner with some simple green or vinegar, presto, brand new hinges!
Not so fast chief. You will still have to brush and scrape paint even with a heated ultrasound cleaner. Although it could be quicker to get the step where it is easy to remove paint without all these steps.
@@nthnsome pretty much any and all paint comes off, even 2k and powder coat, sometimes you just need a little extra kick in a form of acetone. Put your item in a poly bag + acetone, dip the whole thing in the sonicator, and presto, paint is gone.
How satisfying! Thank you!!
Wow this was so informative! I love this!
This is amazing! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks 👍💪
BEAUTIFUL ❣️
Amazing. Well done.
Beautiful. Were you able to salvage the screws as well? If not, what will you be using to put them back on?
Many of the screws were damaged because they were so difficult to take out. We’re a little sorry we don’t have them anymore but we will do our best to find matching screws. Preferably Philips heads.
Wow! Thank you!!!
Excellent!!
Love this video! One of the best I’ve seen to show how to restore. Do you know if this process can be used if there is bakelite or plastic on the hardware? I purchased 10 Art Deco pulls locally, but only 1 was original. All the others were painted black (!) & I want to strip them back to original. I’ve tried other products from other videos w/no success. They are beautiful, but not so much all in black spray paint.
Hi Diane, I don't think I'd try it on bakelight. I'm afraid the acidity of the vinegar would discolor or even melt the material. You might try some straight acetone, and swab it on with a qtip. You might also test Smart Strip by Drummond on them and see if that might work. It is a water based product and our favorite chemical stripper.
Thank you so much-hope one of those works!! I’ll try both.
1st comment and still suppppper excited :) thank you for the video
Great video. Does using steel wool pads scratch the pieces? I’ve heard a brush with nylon bristles is safer. Looking forward to your answer.
We use super fine, and it doesn’t hurt them at all
So great! I am doing the door hardware on a 1916 beauty - but no matter how hard I try I cant get the steel wool into the intricate details of the knobs leaving a contrast of copper and black - instead of all copper. Any suggestions for getting the "crevice" detail restored as well?
There is supposed to be a black/copper contrast. The details were painted black and the raised areas shiny.
THANK YOU!!!
Thanks so much for the awesome video! Do you use the linseed oil on all hardware or just hinges?
I use it on everything, but I brush it on doorknobs so it’s a bit thinner and sets more quickly
Great demonstration. It appears the black paint in the low spots survived stripping. Is that true? How do you manage to strip the surface you want to strip while leaving the black alone. If not, how do you re-apply black paint to those areas without covering the entire hinge? Thank you!
I think what you’re seeing is a light variance causing it to look black. After completion there was only bare metal.
@@OurRestorationNation Thanks for the reply and I agree about light variation! I've been searching high and low for information on how to re-paint the recessed areas black so they look more nearly original. Really appreciate the help.
I've read that boiled linseed oil should not be used on moving parts because it becomes gummy and can impede the hardware's ability to move. Have you found that after allowing it to dry for 3-4 days? I like the idea of just dipping it and letting it sit but am a bit worried that my hinge will be all gummed up eventually. Nice video. Thank you.
We haven't experienced the hinges getting gummed up. I feel like this method has worked really well. We've had them on a door for several months now.
So I did this, the boiled linseed oil is still sticky after over a week. Also it pooled in one area and made a darkened mark... what should I do now? reclean them all?
In cleaning some door knobs and plate it looks like the metal might be some cheaper material. Maybe even aluminum, which I totally was not expecting. It also looks like it had a copper colored veneer. What do you think this is? They look very old.
I love your video and it worked great until the linseed oil. I have had them drying for 2 weeks in the sun and it is still an oily sticky mess. I used exactly what you did. Do you have a suggestion for getting the mess off and fixing it?
Did you use boiled linseed oil, because that does make a difference. If you did and it’s still sticky you can just wipe them down well with a towel and they should be good
@@OurRestorationNation Yes, I used the same boiled linseed you did. I guess I will boil them to get this off rubbing did not do it.
@@cindymead2707 I experienced the same. I restored encasement window hardware, door knobs, door and keyhole rosettes, window locks. I dipped everything in boiled linseed oil and set them aside to dry. It's been over a month and they are still not fully dry -- there are places where the oil pooled and have semi-dried into a drip formation that is sticky to the touch. Cindy, did boiling the hardware remove the sticky linseed oil?
This person baked his hardware that he dipped in linseed oil but he used a work over (which I don't have), not a regular cooking oven. So I wasn't sure this method was a safe way to "cook off" the excess, sticky, goopy linseed oil in my own cooking oven. So I will try boiling instead. ruclips.net/video/SuOT5OmOg-Y/видео.html
@@haspsu Someone above said not to boil the lindseed oil yourself, that it was dangerous .
does it matter is the hinge is taken apart into its 3 pieces for this process?
Not particularly: though that does allow you to make sure you have all traces of paint removed and the hinge well oiled
115 year old Victorian house here. For me, the linseed oil never really "dried". Even months later it stayed like goop. Very jelly-like substance that is still sticky. That was the only part of this process that didn't work for me. Any suggestions?
What would you recommend if after removing the paint and sealer via this method, I wanted to make the hardware (Eastlake Bin Pulls) black so they match my cabinet knobs? I don't want to apply a product that is too thick and hide the pattern, but want the black finish.
I would probably recommend a high heat spray paint. The high heat variety will wear better than just a regular paint. Hope that helps.
Thank you!
Were the hinges in the crock pot and just plain water it's plain water?
Just water
What do you do with the linseed oil when you are done?
@ourrestorationnation What if there is lead in the paint? How do you dispose of the crock pot water and the vinegar if they contain lead paint fragments?
1) don’t eat the lead🤣
2) don’t ever use the crock pot for food prep
3) bag the water and paint in a black plastic bag, seal with duct tape and label. It can be disposed of in the trash and the landfill will deal with it appropriately
And remember- it’s MINUSCULE amounts of lead at that point, equivalent to what is in the water naturally.
What does the boiled linseed oil do?
It lubricates the hinge and helps to keep from rusting.
Would mineral oil work? or could you bake it with vegetable oil like a cast iron pan? I don't wanna buy a whole thing of linseed oil for a couple of pieces
I wouldn’t know about the other two items you’ve mentioned. I use linseed oil because it prevents rust and will “set” in the sun. I don’t know what would happen, as I generally don’t recommend using products for purposes other than their intended use?
What do you put in the crockpot with the hardware? Is it water?
Just water!
Wonderful, thank you!
What is in the crock pot?
Just water.
Use fabric softer in pot to speed the process
Is sand-blasting too rough on antique?
We’ve not tried that but I’d be afraid of the result. This method has been very successful for a smooth finish.
Why not use a brass brush?
Could you fill the crock pot with vinegar and simply let it stew all day? Seems like that may speed up the process but I dont know? Anyone try that?
Hi does this method work for spray paint vs latex paint? Thank you.
Yes, you’ll just have a little more scrubbing to do once it comes out of the pot
I would add to use gloves but thanks for the great tutorial!
or should I say thank you for the Visual :)
One important thing, if you have a depression era dresser that has pulls with Bakelite as part of the design, Don’t use this method! The Bakelite will disintegrate! Lesson learned for all of you! By me
Oh no! Yes, this method is ONLY fir metal or crystal
Hii
Would prefer to see gloves.
When you do it, you wear gloves. Then, you’ll see them! Fixed it for ya!
Technically there’s never an easy way to restore anything😳😬🤔