The water coming out at different places is normal. Also try not to rev that big of a motor that high while on the muffs. It takes a lot of water to cool a 200. Glad to see people restoring and renewing these engines that were made right!
When running a compression test on an optimax you must un plug the two fuel pump connectors located on the vst on the port side of the block also open the butterfly on the throttle body and to keep from getting shocked again pull the kill switch at the controls to kill the spark to the engine
This is definitely correct. I had my boat in 2007 mercury optimax thinking something was wrong with compression and they pointed out this is the true method of checking.
My opinion is if this motor has been sitting for a while, you should change the thermostat, specifically since you already have them and you also changed the water pump. Because it's no fun having problems out on the water. Their easy to change.
I agree with a poster below. If you don't get water when you have it submersed in the tub, you're just seeing the pressure from your hose. Keep digging.
Glad to see you making progress. In all honesty that is my DREAM boat. I have owned three Stratos boats, and I firmly believe they are some of the best boats ever made. Currently restoring a 1996 Stratos 185. I have been through all the issues you have seen, and they can be a struggle but very rewarding in the end. Keep up the great work! FYI I am not entirely sure about this year model, but my '89, '96 and '97 Stratos' have all had issues with the anti-siphon valve. It is a fitting on your gas tank with a small ball bearing in them that can stick and cause such a headache. It may be the reason for the not-so-smooth running if it is on your boat, but even if they are working fine, I would still recommend removal to avoid future issues.
Dude, your restoration vids are awesome, so much different than any other on RUclips, instead of the viewer learn something the viewer participate in teaching the host. Awesome idea 👍 keep them coming. 👋
Does that lower unit have a low water pickup infront of the nose cose? If so you should tape that up every time you run it on the muffs; big pressure loss if you do have low water pickups and they arent plugged running on muffs.
I would check to see if you have a water intake by the trim annode. My suzuki has a third water intake that I have to put tape over so it can get plenty of water with the muffs.
The muffs will force water to the pee hole due to the pressure on your water tap.. but that is not an indicator that the impeller is doing its job, you should bring it to a boat landing and test it in a lake, you should see a steady high pressure string of water coming out, not just a little dripping like you have now.
I’ve worked on dozens of boat motors and never seen tap water flow all the way to the pee hole without a running motor. Also when he hooked it up all the way the pressure was fine.
So ur saying that tap water is different than natural terrestrial water? Like the motor has a preference? All my motors pee just fine whether in the lake or at home connected to my tap@@ChaseDaPlaya
decarb your engine. depending on the hours it's recommended every 100hrs on 2 stroke outboards. this should help boost your compression. few things. never rev your engine up like you did out of water or in neutral lol also when doing compression make sure kill switch is on so you dont get shocked and throttle at WOT
90 to 120 is good what's more important is that all of them are within 10 of each other your good doing a seafoam treatment to it should help clean out any carbon build up and free up the rings so they'll seal better. Which means higher comparison numbers
I hope you ignore all the negative feedback that you get. Only listen to positive feedback from people that mean well for you. You have taken on the giant task of teaching yourself something from scratch about a subject that can be very complicated, high powered outboard motors. You are doing great by learning from all possible sources such as print material, videos, friends, mechanics, and comments from your videos. Keep up the good work.
I've used every oil on the market, cheep to expensive and never had a problem with the two opti's that I have owned and both were older 1998 and a 2000 . Had 2000 hours on one and way over that on the other. The 1998 motor sat for 5 years before I got it. It only had 70 to 90 lbs compression threw out. And I ran it for 6 years. And did minor maintenance. Sold it to recover and that motor still is on the lake running on the weekends. So don't worry about the compression it will get a bunch better after you run a few weeks under a load on the water. And don't ever free rev up any motor. That's a rod cap stretcher. So don't do it! And you will have that motor a long time if you never add any additives to the gas and only use regular lead gasoline, no ethanol what so ever. And you must run motor for 10 to 15 min min before you go kiting across the lake wide open. Merc's need to get hot inside for clearances before you hard pulls.
Hi. Thank you for the great vid. My 115 was standing for about 7 months with about 4 flushes over that period. I took it to the river over the weekend and for some reason it is in limp mode. No alarms just limp mode. Any help?
At 16:35 look just to the right of the hose on the compression tester. You can see sparking there. You can see it at other times as well. Get that spark loss fixed. I am pretty sure that is also the clicking or snapping sound.
Yes, the water coming out in the other areas is normal. When you motor isn't submerged in water, this helps keep the gears and oil in the lower unit cool.
You don't have to use Mercury oil. Any good 2 stroke oil with the proper certification is fine. Compression tests are done with throttle open so cylinders can get air.
Put a piece of tape over the nose cone of the lower unit when running it on the hose. If it’s a torque master it’ll have water pickups in the front too it sucks air when they aren’t covered or fully submerged
The pressure of the hose is making the lower leak like that. Its fine. And there is a wicked snapping noise from spark loss. You may want to replace at least the wires on that baby. Coils may help one day too. Id take the plugs back out and shoot a touch of 2 stroke oil in there to get those pistons some lubrication. Just a bit. Also some STP in your fuel may help the lower compression.
The square muffs are for lower hp outboards. I had the square muffs for my Yamaha 70 hp and the round one for my 175 suzuki. The square muffs wouldn't work on my 175 Suzuki. It's a relief when it's a simple fix!
You should gap the spark plugs correctly. They don’t come gapped properly for optimaxs. A good forum is on bass boat central. Look for mercury optimax thread
I have 734 hours on my 07 opti and have used exactly 3 gallons of mercury optimax oil, My mechanic I've used for years is a certified mercury master mechanic and told me that mercury dfi oil is fine to use, they used to call it premium plus but I believe they've changed the name to premium Dfi oil. I've had very few issues out of mine so far. He told me the optimax oil is good fort people who use them to troll or idle a lot but not required as long as youre using a DFI oil
I forgot the octane but I knew 2 opti 1 Yama 2 Suzuki guys they run a 97 or 98;octane non ethanol 5 gallon in each tank. Not cheap to run these newer EFI DFI engines
the water coming out the lower unit and mid section like that is normal. There is a little water that is meant to get past the motor so it can cool the exhaust tube.
Yes its completely normal for water to come out of those spots. 90psi of compression is completely normal for the optimax outboards. They tent to average 90 to 150psi’s
Check the port that the piss hose connects to. Sometimes carpenter bees or other insects build nests in those, causing a stricture or even completely fouling up the port hole. I’ve seen this numerous times.
I clamp all the muffs I get so they are tight fitting and it pees a lot better I use the square dual inlet muffs, the water coming out of the lower unit is normal to have the water flow through and out the cooling system
I have 25hp merc that does this as well. In the lake or on muffs it pees a little off and on, even driving across the lake. I have a thermostat but just havent installed it to see if that would make it pee more.
Sounds like it just needs some hours of a good italian tuneup and a big can of Seafoam in the gas tank with some fresh, non-ethanol gas to get it good and cleaned out. Definitely sounds strong and healthy, I wouldn't be afraid to send that motor.
The quicksilver DFI oil is cheaper and conforms to all the specs. These Optis idle a little rough sometimes and it seems like it’s got a miss. At WOT smooth as glass. Some say you should index the plugs on these also. All that water coming out in other places is totally normal.
When you do your compression test the throttle needs to be wide open. You’ll get higher numbers, the pistons won’t have to work as hard to suck air into the cylinder. Your compression numbers will be higher.
Do you have a temp gauge? If not I would look into getting one it is almost required on these optimax motors, number 1 thing that kills them is cold seizing... It will pee good and have great water pressure but if you try to accelerate above 1500 RPM and you don't have over 120 degree temps you are at a high risk of destroying the motor. It should reach 120+ pretty quickly at idle, no more than 5 minutes. The thermostats should be 130 degree units. Also that water coming out behind those plastic covers down at the lower unit is normal, mine is the same way.
My optimax sounds just like that. It's a normal sound that all optimax make. The compressor makes a certain sound that adds to the different sounding engine.
The water coming out those others holes is normal. In the back, the water comes thru the exhaust, and in the front, there's a bushing in the mid section that has to be cooled.
Call around to your local boat dealers. Some of them sell the DFI oil for cheap. Just have to bring your own gallon containers. I get it for $28 a gallon locally.
If you have the 4 water intake holes in the lower unit on the bullet/nose cone you need to tape those up to keep it from suckling air. It will pee even faster..
That's crazy because the square ones work way better than the round ones for my mercury . NY round ones are loose and don't seal and the square ones do. .
I owned this same engine, the coil packs and plug lines are notorious for cracking (microcracking ). they will shock you when touched in run mode. They also short while running and seems like your running out of fuel. Just an fyi
If you don't get water streaming out within 20 seconds you will damage your impeller. Square muffs work, rotate the rectangular muff to complete cover to intake ports. Use a big rubber toat to fill with water and fill to cover the water intakes. The boat won't know it's not in a lake. With a new impeller it should pee water within a few seconds. If not you may have an impeller issue.
I've had the exact problem on my merc 200, with the muffes. And my son faced time me with his suzuki 90 not pumping water, and as soon as I seen him using the square muffes, I asked him where his round muffes were, and he said he lost them. He just had the motor running fine a few days before. I told him to get another set of round ones. So he got new round ones the next day and it worked fine. He even bought another water pump because he didn't think just changing the muffes would work.
On the port side of the adapter plate between the engine and the midsection there is a plastic nipple. Unscrew the nipple and you will find a screen. This screen can get clogged with grass or sand and restrict water flow
If you’re able to get your hands on a decent compression tester like Matco or Craftsman, try doing another compression test with one of those. I did a compression test on one of my Mercury motors with a harbor freight tester and thought there was something wrong. Was getting readings of 70,85,85. I used a Craftsman tester and got 110, 115, and 110.
Always have a quality compression tester.. I went through 3 new Harbor Freight tester before I found one that worked... on the first one, for a couple months, I thought my outboard had low compression until I tested a jetski and it had the exact same low compression.. borrowed a matco tester and both engines had great compression.. that artificially low compression tester could be used nefariously 😂 so make sure someone has a good tester if you sell an engine, dont want to get ripped off..
for what I read on those motors anything below 120 psi should be looked at brand new they will push 170 to 180 but the old they get more compression decreases. but on that hand shouldn't be lower than 120 you might need to have the motor rebuilt.
You can take the thermostats out & check them out in some boiling water to see if they will open & close. If they work properly & there is no foren object s in them. Keep using them. Water is not supposed to be comming out of the lower unit cowling. That is probably why it takes so long to start peeing. When you replaced the impeller you might have aligned the water tube properly when you slid the lower unit back on.
We call them poptimax's around here lol sound cool and fun when they run but i've seen so many of them with bad air compressors (expensive part). much prefer just efi or carb merc v6
Great job! just a side note. You should never rev your motor out of water the way that you did. Outboards are not meant to be rev'd in that manner because there is not resistance against the lower end and it allows the power head to over rev...but congrat;s and I love the decal's
If the engine is running good and does not overheat leave the thermostat alone the only thing I will recommend is use the exact spark plugs that is called for it definitely does make a difference
Your first test the motor was dry meaning there had been no fule run through the motor. you could spray a lub in each cylinder let it sit for a hour or so turn the motor over with out the plugs in it to blow out any exses oil put the plugs back run the motor for 10 min then check the compreson again i am sure it will come up around 10 more lbs in each cylinder
I just did the same thing but I used a tank with my lower unit in it. Had the same problem. Turns out the water has to be over the ca. Plate before it will pee 😅
I had the same issue with my square muffs but when I held the muffs and squeezed them against the lower unit it would pee because it sealed it better and created a better seal
You should always tank your engine when testing water pump , thermostats will open sooner , also if the muffs aren’t covering all intake holes it will fry the impeller with in seconds 😎
That's weird i use the square ones all the time and never had an issue but that is on a 90 yamaha and a 70 evinrude. Glad to see you got it figued out.
If you rotate the rectangle part of the muff so the long part goes up and down on lower they should work just fine that is what I do and works just fine
I own a 2004 200 optimax and the square muffs have to be positioned just right for the thing to start peeing. To avoid all this take a hose and just plug it into flush out hole beside your exhaust port.
that isn't a thermostat issue,that just shows the impeller is good,you need a laser thermometer to check heads for thermostats opening at the block on both sides.
Try a bucket 55 gallon drum w a drain cut 1/4 off the top or so see if it draws. The muffs your injecting the water forcing it sorta if she draws from a test tank she’s good should be a stronger pee stream
Thermostats should be checked for proper operation by taking them out. place them in heated water with a thermometer and see what temp it opens at. flush cooling system without thermostat as well. Note water flow, check pump vanes every year after winter. A simple maintenance issue.
Use the round muffs. If you’re going to use a bucket of water it Has to be deep enough to make it over your cavitation plate so that your water pump will pick it up correctly. You’ll have issues with some motors if you use a bin full of water, and it isn’t high enough for the impeller pump to pick it up.
it seems to me that the time it takes to pump the water out of tell tale tube it might pay to have the water4 pump inspected for peak performance, as they generate a fair bit heat in an engine that size, also hitting the throttle with a gutful of gas whilst on only the muffs is not wise - as when you have the motor fully immersed in the lake or whatever
Nothing better than the sound of an optimax. You can always hear the growl when they start and WOT sound is amazing.
Yes if ya like the sound of a Volkswagen
@@arthurtaddei1285 there are 2 stroke volkswagens out there??
The water coming out at different places is normal. Also try not to rev that big of a motor that high while on the muffs. It takes a lot of water to cool a 200. Glad to see people restoring and renewing these engines that were made right!
I ran Pennzoil Marine Premium Plus for years(10 easy) in my 2004 225 Optimax. I sold it (running) and replaced it with a 300 Pro XS.
When running a compression test on an optimax you must un plug the two fuel pump connectors located on the vst on the port side of the block also open the butterfly on the throttle body and to keep from getting shocked again pull the kill switch at the controls to kill the spark to the engine
This is definitely correct. I had my boat in 2007 mercury optimax thinking something was wrong with compression and they pointed out this is the true method of checking.
My opinion is if this motor has been sitting for a while, you should change the thermostat, specifically since you already have them and you also changed the water pump. Because it's no fun having problems out on the water. Their easy to change.
I agree with a poster below. If you don't get water when you have it submersed in the tub, you're just seeing the pressure from your hose. Keep digging.
Glad to see you making progress. In all honesty that is my DREAM boat. I have owned three Stratos boats, and I firmly believe they are some of the best boats ever made. Currently restoring a 1996 Stratos 185. I have been through all the issues you have seen, and they can be a struggle but very rewarding in the end. Keep up the great work!
FYI I am not entirely sure about this year model, but my '89, '96 and '97 Stratos' have all had issues with the anti-siphon valve. It is a fitting on your gas tank with a small ball bearing in them that can stick and cause such a headache. It may be the reason for the not-so-smooth running if it is on your boat, but even if they are working fine, I would still recommend removal to avoid future issues.
Dude, your restoration vids are awesome, so much different than any other on RUclips, instead of the viewer learn something the viewer participate in teaching the host. Awesome idea 👍 keep them coming. 👋
Does that lower unit have a low water pickup infront of the nose cose? If so you should tape that up every time you run it on the muffs; big pressure loss if you do have low water pickups and they arent plugged running on muffs.
I would check to see if you have a water intake by the trim annode. My suzuki has a third water intake that I have to put tape over so it can get plenty of water with the muffs.
The muffs will force water to the pee hole due to the pressure on your water tap.. but that is not an indicator that the impeller is doing its job, you should bring it to a boat landing and test it in a lake, you should see a steady high pressure string of water coming out, not just a little dripping like you have now.
I’ve worked on dozens of boat motors and never seen tap water flow all the way to the pee hole without a running motor. Also when he hooked it up all the way the pressure was fine.
So ur saying that tap water is different than natural terrestrial water? Like the motor has a preference? All my motors pee just fine whether in the lake or at home connected to my tap@@ChaseDaPlaya
I had the same issue with an Evenirude. I turned the square muffs so they were vertical and they started working!
Love these type of vids. Im not great mechanically either but i can't help googling and working on my Merc as well, Awesome boat my dude!
decarb your engine. depending on the hours it's recommended every 100hrs on 2 stroke outboards. this should help boost your compression. few things. never rev your engine up like you did out of water or in neutral lol also when doing compression make sure kill switch is on so you dont get shocked and throttle at WOT
Time to fix those LiveWell lids next and recarpet the boat. Better safe than stepping through or in something per say lol. All the best to you.
🎉🎉Much better progress than the last time. This boat definitely seems like it's gonna be easier to make it a dream rig
90 to 120 is good what's more important is that all of them are within 10 of each other your good doing a seafoam treatment to it should help clean out any carbon build up and free up the rings so they'll seal better. Which means higher comparison numbers
I hope you ignore all the negative feedback that you get. Only listen to positive feedback from people that mean well for you.
You have taken on the giant task of teaching yourself something from scratch about a subject that can be very complicated, high powered outboard motors.
You are doing great by learning from all possible sources such as print material, videos, friends, mechanics, and comments from your videos.
Keep up the good work.
I've used every oil on the market, cheep to expensive and never had a problem with the two opti's that I have owned and both were older 1998 and a 2000 . Had 2000 hours on one and way over that on the other. The 1998 motor sat for 5 years before I got it. It only had 70 to 90 lbs compression threw out. And I ran it for 6 years. And did minor maintenance. Sold it to recover and that motor still is on the lake running on the weekends. So don't worry about the compression it will get a bunch better after you run a few weeks under a load on the water. And don't ever free rev up any motor. That's a rod cap stretcher. So don't do it! And you will have that motor a long time if you never add any additives to the gas and only use regular lead gasoline, no ethanol what so ever. And you must run motor for 10 to 15 min min before you go kiting across the lake wide open. Merc's need to get hot inside for clearances before you hard pulls.
appreciate you!
what does your water pressure gauge show on the dash?? you need to clean/back flush the cooling system . it has silt and sand in it.
Hi. Thank you for the great vid. My 115 was standing for about 7 months with about 4 flushes over that period. I took it to the river over the weekend and for some reason it is in limp mode. No alarms just limp mode. Any help?
At 16:35 look just to the right of the hose on the compression tester. You can see sparking there. You can see it at other times as well. Get that spark loss fixed. I am pretty sure that is also the clicking or snapping sound.
Good eye! Wow haha
It looks like thats just a metallic label that has the part number on it thats flapping and catching the sun as it turns over
That water is perfectly fine period….check your other engines they all do the same your good!! Pretty sure you have a good motor
You can also run Mercury premium plus 2 cycle oil safely in a Optimax
Yes, the water coming out in the other areas is normal. When you motor isn't submerged in water, this helps keep the gears and oil in the lower unit cool.
not even close buddy...it cools the exhaust. that's why it runs out the prop hub
You don't have to use Mercury oil. Any good 2 stroke oil with the proper certification is fine. Compression tests are done with throttle open so cylinders can get air.
Incorrect…an Optimax needs dfi oil.
@@bigbaldfishyou keep thinking that
@@bigbaldfish After putting over 500 hours on my Optimax I’ll say no, any Tcw3 oil will do the job.
@bigbaldfish and there's other options for it besides the Mercury stuff, like XD-50.
I agree any 2 stoke oil will work fine
Put a piece of tape over the nose cone of the lower unit when running it on the hose. If it’s a torque master it’ll have water pickups in the front too it sucks air when they aren’t covered or fully submerged
You can download a pdf manual for the optimax that tells you everything you need to know and how to disassemble every piece on the outboard
The pressure of the hose is making the lower leak like that. Its fine. And there is a wicked snapping noise from spark loss. You may want to replace at least the wires on that baby. Coils may help one day too. Id take the plugs back out and shoot a touch of 2 stroke oil in there to get those pistons some lubrication. Just a bit. Also some STP in your fuel may help the lower compression.
Dr. Pondhopper
Like the board
You can track the logistics.
Where did you get your decals. I need to replace mine also
The square muffs are for lower hp outboards. I had the square muffs for my Yamaha 70 hp and the round one for my 175 suzuki. The square muffs wouldn't work on my 175 Suzuki. It's a relief when it's a simple fix!
You should gap the spark plugs correctly. They don’t come gapped properly for optimaxs. A good forum is on bass boat central. Look for mercury optimax thread
Up
I have 734 hours on my 07 opti and have used exactly 3 gallons of mercury optimax oil, My mechanic I've used for years is a certified mercury master mechanic and told me that mercury dfi oil is fine to use, they used to call it premium plus but I believe they've changed the name to premium Dfi oil. I've had very few issues out of mine so far. He told me the optimax oil is good fort people who use them to troll or idle a lot but not required as long as youre using a DFI oil
As long as its TC3 or equivalent your good it doesn't have to be mercury brand.
Yep that's what I buy for mine. Much cheaper
I forgot the octane but I knew 2 opti 1 Yama 2 Suzuki guys they run a 97 or 98;octane non ethanol 5 gallon in each tank. Not cheap to run these newer EFI DFI engines
the water coming out the lower unit and mid section like that is normal. There is a little water that is meant to get past the motor so it can cool the exhaust tube.
Yes its completely normal for water to come out of those spots. 90psi of compression is completely normal for the optimax outboards. They tent to average 90 to 150psi’s
Check the port that the piss hose connects to. Sometimes carpenter bees or other insects build nests in those, causing a stricture or even completely fouling up the port hole. I’ve seen this numerous times.
I clamp all the muffs I get so they are tight fitting and it pees a lot better I use the square dual inlet muffs, the water coming out of the lower unit is normal to have the water flow through and out the cooling system
Same engine. I tested compression with a harbor freight tester. Got 95. Took it to a shop and it tested 135.
I have 25hp merc that does this as well. In the lake or on muffs it pees a little off and on, even driving across the lake. I have a thermostat but just havent installed it to see if that would make it pee more.
Sounds like it just needs some hours of a good italian tuneup and a big can of Seafoam in the gas tank with some fresh, non-ethanol gas to get it good and cleaned out. Definitely sounds strong and healthy, I wouldn't be afraid to send that motor.
The quicksilver DFI oil is cheaper and conforms to all the specs.
These Optis idle a little rough sometimes and it seems like it’s got a miss. At WOT smooth as glass. Some say you should index the plugs on these also.
All that water coming out in other places is totally normal.
I use the square ones but you have to spin them to where they are vertical in the water pickups.
Good job. Always learning something new about boat motor buddy.
Quick silver synthetic blend will be just fine to run through the motor I’ve ran in several optimax and it’s about half the price
When you do your compression test the throttle needs to be wide open. You’ll get higher numbers, the pistons won’t have to work as hard to suck air into the cylinder. Your compression numbers will be higher.
That’s only on a fourstroke
@@sethgabbard7705absolutely not
My Merc Platinum Tech advised OPTI Compression test should ONLY be done cold.
So what is the correct Optimax oil? So you are not able to use Amsoil HP Marine 2 cycle? It meets ALL Mercury standards.
Thank you so much brother!!! Im going out in the garage and throwing both of those POS rectangular muffs out!
Do you have a temp gauge? If not I would look into getting one it is almost required on these optimax motors, number 1 thing that kills them is cold seizing... It will pee good and have great water pressure but if you try to accelerate above 1500 RPM and you don't have over 120 degree temps you are at a high risk of destroying the motor. It should reach 120+ pretty quickly at idle, no more than 5 minutes. The thermostats should be 130 degree units. Also that water coming out behind those plastic covers down at the lower unit is normal, mine is the same way.
Dude I have those rectangular muffs and my motor barely pees i wonder if thats my problem too Im going to try my round one now
My optimax sounds just like that. It's a normal sound that all optimax make. The compressor makes a certain sound that adds to the different sounding engine.
The water coming out those others holes is normal. In the back, the water comes thru the exhaust, and in the front, there's a bushing in the mid section that has to be cooled.
Call around to your local boat dealers. Some of them sell the DFI oil for cheap. Just have to bring your own gallon containers. I get it for $28 a gallon locally.
If you have the 4 water intake holes in the lower unit on the bullet/nose cone you need to tape those up to keep it from suckling air. It will pee even faster..
Quicksilver synthetic oil is more than good enough for the Opti...no need to spend twice as much just for the brand name.
That's crazy because the square ones work way better than the round ones for my mercury . NY round ones are loose and don't seal and the square ones do. .
I owned this same engine, the coil packs and plug lines are notorious for cracking (microcracking ). they will shock you when touched in run mode. They also short while running and seems like your running out of fuel. Just an fyi
If you don't get water streaming out within 20 seconds you will damage your impeller. Square muffs work, rotate the rectangular muff to complete cover to intake ports. Use a big rubber toat to fill with water and fill to cover the water intakes. The boat won't know it's not in a lake. With a new impeller it should pee water within a few seconds. If not you may have an impeller issue.
I've had the exact problem on my merc 200, with the muffes. And my son faced time me with his suzuki 90 not pumping water, and as soon as I seen him using the square muffes, I asked him where his round muffes were, and he said he lost them. He just had the motor running fine a few days before. I told him to get another set of round ones. So he got new round ones the next day and it worked fine. He even bought another water pump because he didn't think just changing the muffes would work.
On the port side of the adapter plate between the engine and the midsection there is a plastic nipple. Unscrew the nipple and you will find a screen. This screen can get clogged with grass or sand and restrict water flow
If you’re able to get your hands on a decent compression tester like Matco or Craftsman, try doing another compression test with one of those. I did a compression test on one of my Mercury motors with a harbor freight tester and thought there was something wrong. Was getting readings of 70,85,85. I used a Craftsman tester and got 110, 115, and 110.
Always have a quality compression tester.. I went through 3 new Harbor Freight tester before I found one that worked... on the first one, for a couple months, I thought my outboard had low compression until I tested a jetski and it had the exact same low compression.. borrowed a matco tester and both engines had great compression.. that artificially low compression tester could be used nefariously 😂 so make sure someone has a good tester if you sell an engine, dont want to get ripped off..
for what I read on those motors anything below 120 psi should be looked at brand new they will push 170 to 180 but the old they get more compression decreases. but on that hand shouldn't be lower than 120 you might need to have the motor rebuilt.
When doing compression test pull kill switch lol also I always do one plug at a time and leave other plugs in with kill switch pulled so no spark
Good point
I use marval mystery oil o bout 1 oz in a 6 gallon tank works like a champ a little extra oil that burns
You can take the thermostats out & check them out in some boiling water to see if they will open & close. If they work properly & there is no foren object s in them. Keep using them.
Water is not supposed to be comming out of the lower unit cowling. That is probably why it takes so long to start peeing. When you replaced the impeller you might have aligned the water tube properly when you slid the lower unit back on.
Do you have your square muffs horizontal put them vertical
We call them poptimax's around here lol sound cool and fun when they run but i've seen so many of them with bad air compressors (expensive part). much prefer just efi or carb merc v6
Great job! just a side note. You should never rev your motor out of water the way that you did. Outboards are not meant to be rev'd in that manner because there is not resistance against the lower end and it allows the power head to over rev...but congrat;s and I love the decal's
If the engine is running good and does not overheat leave the thermostat alone the only thing I will recommend is use the exact spark plugs that is called for it definitely does make a difference
I I’m sure needs plugs that’s good moter I run the pro xs 250 maybe change lower unit oil and send it
Yeah the water coming out like that on the lower is normal. Once in the lake water wont do that when submerged.
Your first test the motor was dry meaning there had been no fule run through the motor. you could spray a lub in each cylinder let it sit for a hour or so turn the motor over with out the plugs in it to blow out any exses oil put the plugs back run the motor for 10 min then check the compreson again i am sure it will come up around 10 more lbs in each cylinder
I thought you tried putting it in a tub of water, too? At least you got it working. That's awesome 😊
The water coming out around the sides is ok depending on your lower unit. The older style, which was typical.
As long as the oil says TCW 3 your fine. I was sponsored by Mercury and ran optimax motors since they were introduced in the 90’s.
Might want to try Atwood 9372-2 muffs. Yes the muff issue is a common one.
I just did the same thing but I used a tank with my lower unit in it. Had the same problem. Turns out the water has to be over the ca. Plate before it will pee 😅
My 2021 mercury does the same thing with the water coming out of it in different places. It’s normal. Don’t stress it
I run Penzoil. Has all the same ratings as quicksilver. Never had any issues
I had the same issue with my square muffs but when I held the muffs and squeezed them against the lower unit it would pee because it sealed it better and created a better seal
too much air trapped in the square muffs it aerates the water not allowing pressure to build
Anytime running a outboard try to run in a cattle trough muffs are hard on a water pump
Run a high mix of 'Seafoam" 16 oz to the gallon. Run get hot and give it a hot soak - run again.
You should always tank your engine when testing water pump , thermostats will open sooner , also if the muffs aren’t covering all intake holes it will fry the impeller with in seconds 😎
Best series ever
That's weird i use the square ones all the time and never had an issue but that is on a 90 yamaha and a 70 evinrude. Glad to see you got it figued out.
What’s the plan with the bass cat after this boat is done?
I guess well have to see
If you rotate the rectangle part of the muff so the long part goes up and down on lower they should work just fine that is what I do and works just fine
These outboards sounds soo good👌🏽
I own a 2004 200 optimax and the square muffs have to be positioned just right for the thing to start peeing. To avoid all this take a hose and just plug it into flush out hole beside your exhaust port.
that isn't a thermostat issue,that just shows the impeller is good,you need a laser thermometer to check heads for thermostats opening at the block on both sides.
Try a bucket 55 gallon drum w a drain cut 1/4 off the top or so see if it draws. The muffs your injecting the water forcing it sorta if she draws from a test tank she’s good should be a stronger pee stream
You don’t have to use opitmax oil, premium plus mercury oil from Walmart is fine. Been using in my 2008 mercury optimax since then.
Thermostats should be checked for proper operation by taking them out. place them in heated water with a thermometer and see what temp it opens at. flush cooling system without thermostat as well. Note water flow, check pump vanes every year after winter. A simple maintenance issue.
I believe you have the installation manual. You might want to try to find an owners manual or even better a service manual
Use the round muffs. If you’re going to use a bucket of water it Has to be deep enough to make it over your cavitation plate so that your water pump will pick it up correctly. You’ll have issues with some motors if you use a bin full of water, and it isn’t high enough for the impeller pump to pick it up.
I like the muffs that have a crossover hose and will inject water on both sides
I'm going through the same thing with my Mercury 200 on a 98 procraft. I will be buying round muffs 😮
it seems to me that the time it takes to pump the water out of tell tale tube it might pay to have the water4 pump inspected for peak performance, as they generate a fair bit heat in an engine that size, also hitting the throttle with a gutful of gas whilst on only the muffs is not wise - as when you have the motor fully immersed in the lake or whatever