Make sure that people know that you need to shake the Molotow pen for a few second, and then pump the point on a firm surface to get the paint flowing. Also, I would recommend not laying tape rolls on their sides - they're sure to pick up stuff on the sticky edges.
Yes. When I lay down my rolls of take. I try to either hang them. Or lay them on the baggie I store them in. Sometimes in the heat of battle. I forget. I've covered this in past videos. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I say you and Chris HPI Guy have the best tutorials. Skilled productions, excellent content, some humor and the years of experience you two pass on that we use immediately. Thanks
Here’s a couple important tips for properly using the Molotow chrome to get the best results... First off, it’s recommended to apply a coat of gloss black paint before applying the Molotow chrome over it. I’ve tried applying it with and without a gloss black coat, and I have to say that it really does come out better with the gloss black undercoat. Next, be sure to shake the pen for about a minute so it really mixes good. The first time I used it, I didn’t mix it nearly enough, and the chrome came out a bit blotchy. I then made sure to mix the chrome (by shaking the pen) really well and applied it over the original application. The results were much better this time, but because I used it over the original application, it was too thick and it took about 5 weeks to fully cure before I could handle it without ruining the chrome. Now, whenever I use it, I make sure to mix it really well to get it right with one application (which also makes it cure much faster,). The last tip has to do with applying a clear coat that doesn’t dull the chrome, which is what most clear coats do to it. As far as I know (after doing a lot of research), there are only two clear coats that don’t dull the chrome. One is made by Alclad and the other is made by Liquitex. From what I’ve read, people have mixed results with the Alclad clear coat. I personally use “Liquitex High Gloss Varnish” as my clear coat of choice for use with Molotow chrome. It works fantastic and I’ve never had any negative results with it. Just be sure to mix it well and apply two to three light coats over the Molotow chrome and it should come out looking great. I hope this helps anyone using the Molotow chrome!
This was very helpful Luka. I am getting back into this hobby after years of not doing it. I've always had problems with trim so I'm excited to try the Bare Metal Foil. Thanks!
Nice job, Luka. I appreciate the detailing tips and "how to" tutorial. I just started receiving your video tutorials from YT in my inbox, and they've been very helpful. I'm just getting back into the hobby after a long absence away, and enjoy learning what knowledgable modelers such as yourself are doing to create details and realism in your builds. Keep the instructional vids coming! 😄👍🇺🇸
Another great tip video Luka. I bought a sheet of Bare Metal chrome about 10 years ago to make some chrome numbers. As I recall, my results weren't too great. Perhaps I needed more burnishing. But I have old scraps to play with. Another model builder has an older RUclips video where he uses aluminum foil & a glue instead of Bare Metal for his moldings & other chrome trim. I'll have to find that video to look at how he does that. The Molotow Liquid Chrome is new to me, but I've read for a couple years of 1/32 scale slot racers using it on their cars. They got good results too.
I've been using the molotow for awhile and love it. Still use BMF a bit but the fine cracks are pissing me off especially for large parts like bumpers or airplane skin. I haven't tried airbrushing it but want to. There are larger refills of the molotow you can get and replacement tips. You can trim the tips if needed. You can't use the molotow to paint large flat areas, didn't work for me anyway. Works good on semi truck mirrors and you can gently dab it on emblems. Don't clear over it, tones the chrome down to much.
I really enjoy watching your shows. I have been in the hospital for about a month been in bed for over a year and a half with problems with feet how brought out all my models are used to build before my kids were born now I am bringing them all out figuring out there's a lot more things we can do with models than what I did in the 70s and 80s. Thanks for sharing. I am not very good with computers would love to know more detail about the episode were where are you can get models a month for a price would like to know more detail if you can take time thank you for showing me tips very awesome
Just got back in the model vehicle hobby a few months ago. Have been back in the model railroading hobby for about 6 years so I figured ya can’t have enough hobbies. Anyway, this video was very informative, well done and I’m subbing to ya, Cary
Good comparison, something to consider. I have chrome bare metal foil I purchased 20 years ago and forgot about until recently, might not work at all. I do have a silver Sharpie pen, that might work for trim details....maybe.
I haven't used either product but it seems to me using the marker is double the work. The foil is more like reverse masking. I am using microbrush and it has the same short falls as the marker. IMHO. Naphtha AKA lighter fluid works well and doesn't hurt the plastic.
There’s also Chrome Duct tape for the Heating & Cooling guys but you can find it at hardware stores, Lowe’s, Ace, any heating & cooling supplies store! It will do the same as the bare metal foil!
I tried that out in the 80s. IMO Its way too thick and you do not even get the results you get with these two products. Its not worth the money savings to drop the visual quality of MY builds. Again, this is just MY personal preferences in building MY models. I will never do it that way.
I wonder if the problem with old foil is the glue going dry. Mayb if you lightly heat the full sheet with a hair dryer, it would soften the glue and prolong the sheet. Just 1 heat, and let it cool down.
Good tutorial video. I have been searching for a tutorial on how to get good looking chrome badging that's molded into the car body. Are you aware of any or can you do one? I've searched on every variation of "raised detail" and "painting car badges," etc., only to get videos of painting dashboards and engines, but never body raised detail; like the "Thunderbird" and the T-bird logos on the sides of an AMT '71 Ford Thunderbird. Any clues would be welcome. Again, great video, and Thanks.
Great video. I prefer the bmf tho. But uses the pens to touch up kit chrome pieses. But that is up to what everyone prefer using. Keep them videos coming.
I found the last few sheets of BMF that I ordered have no sticking power at all. When I try to trim a piece, the whole piece just slides off the model with the knife!
Back in the day, I free handed chrome trim with chrome paint and a very small brush. Unfortunately, when I would spray clear gloss over it, the chrome paint would blur.
WikdSeafood I just left a comment with some tips to use the Molotow chrome and get great results, and your issue is one of, if not the biggest issues that people have when using the Molotow. I did a ton of research and found that there are only two different types of clear coat that don’t dull the chrome. One is made by “Alclad” and the other is made by “Liquitex”. People have mixed results with the Alclad. Some swear by it while others don’t like it at all. I personally use the clear coat made by Liquitex. The exact one that you want to use is “Liquitex High Gloss Varnish”. I use it every time that I use the Molotow chrome and I’ve never had any bad results at all. It leaves the chrome looking exactly the same as it does before applying the clear coat. I hope that this helps you out. If you want / need anymore tips, read my comment above. If you read it and still need some help, just reply to this comment and we can figure out a better way to communicate and I’ll help you out as much as I can
@@-Jame- Man, you're amazing, thank you for all these tips that you're giving! I'm looking forward to paint only the window trim on one of my 1/18 resin models from GT Spirit that is currently black. However, I don't plan to disassemble it all, I'll just mask is and paint with Molotow. So at this point I wouldn't be able to spray a clear coat. What about just leaving the chrome as final coat, as it is?
Emanuil Valkov If you leave the Molotow without a clear coat on it, the chrome most likely with smudge and become dull. I’m not sure if you already have a clear coat on the rest of the model, but it you do, you can just put the molotow on and then after it fully dries paint on one of the two clears that I had mentioned before. If you don’t have paint and a clear coat on the model, I’d go ahead and paint it and clear coat it first (before chrome otherwise the other clear coat can dull it) and tape off the area that you want to use the molotow chrome on. Then, after it’s done, go ahead and add the chrome and then add the clear after the molotow is fully dry.
I know that I’m replying to my own comment, but I just thought of something and wanted to add it. Another option is to use the Liquitex clear coat to use on the entire car. The best way would be to spray it with an airbrush. If you have any issues or more questions, just reply to my comment and I’ll do what I can for you. I’m going to put some more thought into this as well just to see if I can come up with any other ideas. Again, please feel free to ask me anything and I’ll do what I can for you. We can also trade contact info so I can further help out and steer you in the right direction. Good luck, and keep me updated
Hey mate Kev from Perth Australia again love 💖 ya vids mate I’m going to try BMF for first time so I’m going to play this step by step as I go here’s luck cheers mate 👍
In my opinion, you definitely can go extra finer than the 2mm Molotow Liquid Chrome pen. I'd go with the 1mm or finer chrome pen. And I'd do it after laying down the final coat of clear coat. Just let it dry enough until you can mask tape it precisely, and with the finer tip, you minimize errors and disastrous, abhorrent mistakes.
Luka, it's been a couple of years, has there been any development in chrome finish that can take a clear coat without dulling? Seems they all dull? Alclad, Molotow, Spaz, all of them. Most report that if you don't clear coat or protect in some way the finishes are all very fragile. Thanks for sharing.
Well if it ain't my Ol' bud Greg. That means allot coming from you. Allot of this is all your fault. You are the one that called that frustrated kid modeler to come check out that local model car club. I still have that Cooter's Tow Truck busted down, built up you gave me in the 80s. LOL!
Great Tutorial!!!👍🏼👌 Molotow definitely works best when Airbrushed (no primer needed spray it over whatever...)👍🏼 but shooting clear over it will dull it considerably... ☯️ZenModeling☯️
Oh my god, you have a model of the car I have been after for quite a while! Nice work there, but I gotta ask, you still have a source for that kit? I live in Germany, so it's not always easy to find those classic Petty Nascar kits!
That actually isnt the model you think it is. I pulled that body out of my model car "Junk Yard". I built it and painted that model in 1990. Even at that time, the Petty 72 Roadrunner was a hard to find, expensive vintage kit. So i used the MPC 71 Roadrunner street car which was a regular in the hobby shops at that time. As for a source for eather of those kits. Ebay. They are both hard to find even here in the U.S. And if you do. They command a high dollar.
Bummer...was hoping you had a source...I had to use the 71 GTX to make a model of my 72 Satellite I used to own, and I know I got that kit from the states in 98....oh well, maybe the "Round 2" kits might come up with some of the good old cars again!
Hi! Thanks for the test, it was useful. Only one thing, the pronunciation: it should be "molotov". It's a russian name. It's not a "tow" from "Molo" :)
THANKS!!! FINALLY some one gave me correct pronunciation. It did give some funny bloopers, though. Thanks for watching and I'm so glad it helped you out.
I tried Bmf and its never works for me, I get on the window trim nice and smooth go to cut the access off and it never comes off in a clean strip like yours did , it sticks to the paint and is hard as hell to get off. I don't know if it's the type of paint I used or what, rattlecan painted a week earlier.
Literally, what I wanted to know about: liquid chrome paint. Now is time to make&restore: -grids -lights -mirrors -russian rifles's barrels -decorative lines -(with an ink pen) car's logos -rims -scifi things One day, when I'll have more time and I'll reach my trusted model shop, I'll watch this video carefully
Im not real familar with that clear. But from my experience with testors enamels. They take forever and a day to harden. Its like they are always sticky for the longest time. Set it in a window sill that gets sun and let it bake the clear. You have to monitor it so it doesn't get to hot and distort your body. As far as how long. I dont know. You just need to be able to handle it without putting finger prints in it. Next build. Give Tamiya clear a shot. Its synthetic lacquer. It drys fast and easy to buff out.
That tip is spring loaded. All you have to do is push down with the pen on a hard surface. Pushing the tip up into the pen. It will fill with paint and you are ready to go.
Hello, thanks for the tutorial. I was wondering if you would be interested in doing a few model cars for my father. He's too shaky to do it himself. Obviously we'd ship it to you, pay you, and pay for the shipping back to us. Please let me know if you're Interested. Thank you.
Make sure that people know that you need to shake the Molotow pen for a few second, and then pump the point on a firm surface to get the paint flowing.
Also, I would recommend not laying tape rolls on their sides - they're sure to pick up stuff on the sticky edges.
Yes. When I lay down my rolls of take. I try to either hang them. Or lay them on the baggie I store them in. Sometimes in the heat of battle. I forget. I've covered this in past videos. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I’ve used the chrome paint pen and I gotta say it’s incredible
I say you and Chris HPI Guy have the best tutorials. Skilled productions, excellent content, some humor and the years of experience you two pass on that we use immediately. Thanks
Here’s a couple important tips for properly using the Molotow chrome to get the best results... First off, it’s recommended to apply a coat of gloss black paint before applying the Molotow chrome over it. I’ve tried applying it with and without a gloss black coat, and I have to say that it really does come out better with the gloss black undercoat. Next, be sure to shake the pen for about a minute so it really mixes good. The first time I used it, I didn’t mix it nearly enough, and the chrome came out a bit blotchy. I then made sure to mix the chrome (by shaking the pen) really well and applied it over the original application. The results were much better this time, but because I used it over the original application, it was too thick and it took about 5 weeks to fully cure before I could handle it without ruining the chrome. Now, whenever I use it, I make sure to mix it really well to get it right with one application (which also makes it cure much faster,). The last tip has to do with applying a clear coat that doesn’t dull the chrome, which is what most clear coats do to it. As far as I know (after doing a lot of research), there are only two clear coats that don’t dull the chrome. One is made by Alclad and the other is made by Liquitex. From what I’ve read, people have mixed results with the Alclad clear coat. I personally use “Liquitex High Gloss Varnish” as my clear coat of choice for use with Molotow chrome. It works fantastic and I’ve never had any negative results with it. Just be sure to mix it well and apply two to three light coats over the Molotow chrome and it should come out looking great. I hope this helps anyone using the Molotow chrome!
I took notes, Jame. Good info is always appreciated. Thank you.
Thank you so so much I’ve been looking for advice told as simple as this
This was very helpful Luka. I am getting back into this hobby after years of not doing it. I've always had problems with trim so I'm excited to try the Bare Metal Foil. Thanks!
Recently got the pen, enjoy it much more than before, more subtle finish. Thanks for the video!
Nice job, Luka. I appreciate the detailing tips and "how to" tutorial. I just started receiving your video tutorials from YT in my inbox, and they've been very helpful. I'm just getting back into the hobby after a long absence away, and enjoy learning what knowledgable modelers such as yourself are doing to create details and realism in your builds. Keep the instructional vids coming! 😄👍🇺🇸
Welcome back to the hobby. Thanks for watching.
Love this video, love this guy, love his work room. Thank you I'm learning alot more everytime. Got my vote. Keep up the good work.
Very impressive, I love it!
Thank you very much!
Another great tip video Luka. I bought a sheet of Bare Metal chrome about 10 years ago to make some chrome numbers. As I recall, my results weren't too great. Perhaps I needed more burnishing. But I have old scraps to play with. Another model builder has an older RUclips video where he uses aluminum foil & a glue instead of Bare Metal for his moldings & other chrome trim. I'll have to find that video to look at how he does that. The Molotow Liquid Chrome is new to me, but I've read for a couple years of 1/32 scale slot racers using it on their cars. They got good results too.
I've been using the molotow for awhile and love it. Still use BMF a bit but the fine cracks are pissing me off especially for large parts like bumpers or airplane skin. I haven't tried airbrushing it but want to. There are larger refills of the molotow you can get and replacement tips. You can trim the tips if needed. You can't use the molotow to paint large flat areas, didn't work for me anyway. Works good on semi truck mirrors and you can gently dab it on emblems. Don't clear over it, tones the chrome down to much.
I really enjoy watching your shows. I have been in the hospital for about a month been in bed for over a year and a half with problems with feet how brought out all my models are used to build before my kids were born now I am bringing them all out figuring out there's a lot more things we can do with models than what I did in the 70s and 80s. Thanks for sharing. I am not very good with computers would love to know more detail about the episode were where are you can get models a month for a price would like to know more detail if you can take time thank you for showing me tips very awesome
I use a silver Sharpie with great results and clear coat gives it a little bit of a shine for the chrome look.
🏍️ That's kinda exactly the method we're trying to replace with these ideas. Kinda like the electric toothbrush. We know the regular one kinda works.
Just got back in the model vehicle hobby a few months ago. Have been back in the model railroading hobby for about 6 years so I figured ya can’t have enough hobbies.
Anyway, this video was very informative, well done and I’m subbing to ya, Cary
Good comparison, something to consider. I have chrome bare metal foil I purchased 20 years ago and forgot about until recently, might not work at all. I do have a silver Sharpie pen, that might work for trim details....maybe.
Excellent video. I've had modest success with the pen. I may give the bare metal foil a try too.
Nice. Thank you for the tip and nice meeting at Andy's!
Back at you Aaron. Keep in touch. We will be having some cool model car things going on here locally as soon as we can get back to "Normal" again.
Just got one of these pens, but haven’t tried it yet but seems impressive
I just bought another one that is a thinner tip. I'm going to try it out on the model I'm working on now. My 64 Olds. It will be a video.
Great tutorial mate. Going to try using metal foil for the first time as well.
I'm gonna try this on my 68 charger rt super stock drag kit
I haven't used either product but it seems to me using the marker is double the work. The foil is more like reverse masking. I am using microbrush and it has the same short falls as the marker. IMHO. Naphtha AKA lighter fluid works well and doesn't hurt the plastic.
I've been using it for a while now. I'm still trying to master it. But I've had awesome results though! Great work Luka.
luka you can use a free swivel blades I have found the work great folowing the contour of the line.
The pens are pricey, but I think they do a better job. and are simpler. Nicely done. Thank you.
There’s also Chrome Duct tape for the Heating & Cooling guys but you can find it at hardware stores, Lowe’s, Ace, any heating & cooling supplies store! It will do the same as the bare metal foil!
You can get three times as much of the chrome duct tape for what you pay for bare metal foil, too!
I tried that out in the 80s.
IMO Its way too thick and you do not even get the results you get with these two products. Its not worth the money savings to drop the visual quality of MY builds. Again, this is just MY personal preferences in building MY models. I will never do it that way.
My feelings are the same with household aluminum foil and Elmers glue. YUK. :(
Its a bit thick, but does work. So, I'll keep using it.
I wonder if the problem with old foil is the glue going dry. Mayb if you lightly heat the full sheet with a hair dryer, it would soften the glue and prolong the sheet. Just 1 heat, and let it cool down.
Can you compare to Hasegawa chrome film? It seems more glossy like chrome and a bit more flexible and slightly stretchy.
Nice
Good tutorial video. I have been searching for a tutorial on how to get good looking chrome badging that's molded into the car body. Are you aware of any or can you do one? I've searched on every variation of "raised detail" and "painting car badges," etc., only to get videos of painting dashboards and engines, but never body raised detail; like the "Thunderbird" and the T-bird logos on the sides of an AMT '71 Ford Thunderbird. Any clues would be welcome. Again, great video, and Thanks.
one of my first models richard petty early 70s maybe 71 or 72?
with all due respect I wouldn't overlap bmf. love your vids
I use the silver tape they use on air ducts. HVAC
Great video. Glad I found your channel.
+Chuck Bush Thanks for your support!
Great video.
I prefer the bmf tho. But uses the pens to touch up kit chrome pieses.
But that is up to what everyone prefer using.
Keep them videos coming.
+Toms Scale Garage Thanks Tom. Im still up in the air. I want to try the paint pen out on a complete model before I totally deside.
Model Car Hobby Headquarters cool man. I hope you show us all the result when you try it.
Great Video ! Excellent information ! Thanks
I found the last few sheets of BMF that I ordered have no sticking power at all. When I try to trim a piece, the whole piece just slides off the model with the knife!
there's a Microscale item called Micro Metal Foil Adhesive.
Great video brother keep up the awesome work
I think I'm going to use bare metal foil on my model cars. I can barely see the Molotow chrome marker on the rear window chrome trims.
I use heat tape for HVAC it is cheaper and it does not deteriorate
Back in the day, I free handed chrome trim with chrome paint and a very small brush. Unfortunately, when I would spray clear gloss over it, the chrome paint would blur.
WikdSeafood I just left a comment with some tips to use the Molotow chrome and get great results, and your issue is one of, if not the biggest issues that people have when using the Molotow. I did a ton of research and found that there are only two different types of clear coat that don’t dull the chrome. One is made by “Alclad” and the other is made by “Liquitex”. People have mixed results with the Alclad. Some swear by it while others don’t like it at all. I personally use the clear coat made by Liquitex. The exact one that you want to use is “Liquitex High Gloss Varnish”. I use it every time that I use the Molotow chrome and I’ve never had any bad results at all. It leaves the chrome looking exactly the same as it does before applying the clear coat. I hope that this helps you out. If you want / need anymore tips, read my comment above. If you read it and still need some help, just reply to this comment and we can figure out a better way to communicate and I’ll help you out as much as I can
@@-Jame- Man, you're amazing, thank you for all these tips that you're giving! I'm looking forward to paint only the window trim on one of my 1/18 resin models from GT Spirit that is currently black. However, I don't plan to disassemble it all, I'll just mask is and paint with Molotow. So at this point I wouldn't be able to spray a clear coat. What about just leaving the chrome as final coat, as it is?
Emanuil Valkov If you leave the Molotow without a clear coat on it, the chrome most likely with smudge and become dull. I’m not sure if you already have a clear coat on the rest of the model, but it you do, you can just put the molotow on and then after it fully dries paint on one of the two clears that I had mentioned before. If you don’t have paint and a clear coat on the model, I’d go ahead and paint it and clear coat it first (before chrome otherwise the other clear coat can dull it) and tape off the area that you want to use the molotow chrome on. Then, after it’s done, go ahead and add the chrome and then add the clear after the molotow is fully dry.
I know that I’m replying to my own comment, but I just thought of something and wanted to add it. Another option is to use the Liquitex clear coat to use on the entire car. The best way would be to spray it with an airbrush. If you have any issues or more questions, just reply to my comment and I’ll do what I can for you. I’m going to put some more thought into this as well just to see if I can come up with any other ideas. Again, please feel free to ask me anything and I’ll do what I can for you. We can also trade contact info so I can further help out and steer you in the right direction. Good luck, and keep me updated
Hey mate Kev from Perth Australia again love 💖 ya vids mate I’m going to try BMF for first time so I’m going to play this step by step as I go here’s luck cheers mate 👍
Hey mate just letting you know A BIG ThANKS buddy followed you all the way and worked awesome 💖👍
Bare metal foil all the way...marker is good for interior door& trim.
In my opinion, you definitely can go extra finer than the 2mm Molotow Liquid Chrome pen. I'd go with the 1mm or finer chrome pen. And I'd do it after laying down the final coat of clear coat. Just let it dry enough until you can mask tape it precisely, and with the finer tip, you minimize errors and disastrous, abhorrent mistakes.
🏍️ There's no finer tip than 1mm.
Luka, it's been a couple of years, has there been any development in chrome finish that can take a clear coat without dulling? Seems they all dull? Alclad, Molotow, Spaz, all of them. Most report that if you don't clear coat or protect in some way the finishes are all very fragile. Thanks for sharing.
Very entertaining, as well as informative, thanks
Well if it ain't my Ol' bud Greg. That means allot coming from you. Allot of this is all your fault. You are the one that called that frustrated kid modeler to come check out that local model car club.
I still have that Cooter's Tow Truck busted down, built up you gave me in the 80s. LOL!
Another good video, thank you !!!
Great Tutorial!!!👍🏼👌
Molotow definitely works best when Airbrushed (no primer needed spray it over whatever...)👍🏼 but shooting clear over it will dull it considerably...
☯️ZenModeling☯️
🏍️ You can't airbrush trim on a car model.
I like the Molotow pen better by far
Definitely need to try this....👍🏻👌🏻👏🏻
Masking tape bleeding, is a right pain in the tailpipe....😉😄
Oh my god, you have a model of the car I have been after for quite a while! Nice work there, but I gotta ask, you still have a source for that kit? I live in Germany, so it's not always easy to find those classic Petty Nascar kits!
That actually isnt the model you think it is. I pulled that body out of my model car "Junk Yard". I built it and painted that model in 1990. Even at that time, the Petty 72 Roadrunner was a hard to find, expensive vintage kit. So i used the MPC 71 Roadrunner street car which was a regular in the hobby shops at that time. As for a source for eather of those kits. Ebay. They are both hard to find even here in the U.S. And if you do. They command a high dollar.
Bummer...was hoping you had a source...I had to use the 71 GTX to make a model of my 72 Satellite I used to own, and I know I got that kit from the states in 98....oh well, maybe the "Round 2" kits might come up with some of the good old cars again!
I have been hoping that Round 2 would repop that mpc 71 roadrunner i used for that body in the video
Model Car Hobby Headquarters They did have a dukes of hazzard version of the car which I think is a more popular kit! It was Daisy Duke’s Roadrunner!
I need a tshirt! I have searched for a link everywhere!
What do you use for remowing glue from where the ekses BMF vere?
Hi! Thanks for the test, it was useful. Only one thing, the pronunciation: it should be "molotov". It's a russian name. It's not a "tow" from "Molo" :)
THANKS!!! FINALLY some one gave me correct pronunciation. It did give some funny bloopers, though. Thanks for watching and I'm so glad it helped you out.
I tried Bmf and its never works for me, I get on the window trim nice and smooth go to cut the access off and it never comes off in a clean strip like yours did , it sticks to the paint and is hard as hell to get off. I don't know if it's the type of paint I used or what, rattlecan painted a week earlier.
Make sure you use a NEW, sharp hobby knife. A used blade won't make a clean cut...
Good video. No bullshit
Thanks allot!
The Chrome pen is Also great! I used it to Paint my 427 heads!
Literally, what I wanted to know about: liquid chrome paint. Now is time to make&restore:
-grids
-lights
-mirrors
-russian rifles's barrels
-decorative lines
-(with an ink pen) car's logos
-rims
-scifi things
One day, when I'll have more time and I'll reach my trusted model shop, I'll watch this video carefully
A WATER BASE CLEAR WONT DULL OR FUCK THE SHINE UP
Great video
I just cleared a car with Testors enamel (spray can). How long does the clear have to cure before using the liquid chrome pen?
Im not real familar with that clear. But from my experience with testors enamels. They take forever and a day to harden. Its like they are always sticky for the longest time. Set it in a window sill that gets sun and let it bake the clear. You have to monitor it so it doesn't get to hot and distort your body. As far as how long. I dont know. You just need to be able to handle it without putting finger prints in it. Next build. Give Tamiya clear a shot. Its synthetic lacquer. It drys fast and easy to buff out.
6:20 😹😂🤣🤪
I just got a Molotow Chrome Pen but not the tip is white and has no paint. Do I open it somehow to unseal the paint container or what do I do with it?
That tip is spring loaded. All you have to do is push down with the pen on a hard surface. Pushing the tip up into the pen. It will fill with paint and you are ready to go.
Quis dizer, muito bom tutorial!!
Where can I buy bare metal fo
Hello, thanks for the tutorial. I was wondering if you would be interested in doing a few model cars for my father. He's too shaky to do it himself. Obviously we'd ship it to you, pay you, and pay for the shipping back to us. Please let me know if you're Interested. Thank you.
What kind of liquid do you use to remove chrome
Should've gotten the 1mm pen
Beginning bowl turning
Where to get the chrome pen
andyshhq.com
you know whats better is get the silver crome tape they use on furness ducks not ducvk tape
What happened? He completely lost it in the end... Molotow, molotow, motown...
Molotov can't clear coat over it goes dull
Muito tutorial!!
I think i would rather paint my chrome on.
Hi
10:40 With nail..XD fckn amateur. XD
ur a douche u probably don't know what that means
Bare metal ripoff ... its aluminium ducting tape, you can get meters of it at home depot or UK from B&q and the likes. £5 for 20 meters
Aluminum ducting tape is much too thick for scale model use. Bare Metal Foil is about 10 times thinner.