This is the most informative video ever. I have. 2002 ford excursion lifted and it makes this job so much easier.. I followed this step by step and I tell you it looks very easy to do.. 1st time owner of a 7.3 diesel . This thing has 350 k miles on it and it’s the best unicorn engine I ever owned
Thanks for the video. Saved it to my 7.3 repair playlist. New 7.3 owner here. Would that drain bolt help drain the tube before removing the back housing and spilling antifreeze everywhere? 3:17
I've got a top down oil leak situation, so since I don't know where the actual leaks are... I'm probably going to be doing this soon... Thanks for letting me see how it's done and now that I've seen it, I should be ok... appreciate it
Drew, you've always impressed me with your vast knowledge of all mechanics in this area. You must've started out young or had one great teacher.👍👍God Bless! Happy Easter.
Both. My dad has always fixed everything himself. Ran his own construction company and we always fixed all our own trucks, tractors and equipment. Only thing we ever paid to have done was automatic transmission rebuilds. Thanks for the compliment.
I have done two of these. About to do a third. I remove the 1/4" block drain by the oil filter no mess(shower). Than unbolt the three bolts on the rear housing and pry the cooler and rear housing from the front. I have left the front housing bolted on the last two of these that ive done just clean inside of it and press the cleaned reringed cooler back into the front housing. They have not leaked. One was done 2 years and the other almost 5. Saves a lot of work not removing that front housing. I watched the diesel tech Ron video years ago before doing the first one. R.I.P. Ron
I always remove the front cause a lot are often oozing oil around the gasket plus if I say I’m resealing someone’s oil cooler I do it 100% and do it all. I also do not remove the plug for the coolant because once you have one strip out because of A) being over tightened by the previous mechanic or B) oxidation from the to metals causing it to strip because then you have to explain why you had to buy a new oil filter housing to the customer. I reinstall the front first and press the oil cooler into it also.
Drain plug on the block not the filter housing. Not cutt'n on your vids man. Now that these trucks are over 20 should do both. I only work on my trucks and van(u joint off road ambulance 4×4) i'll be steam cleaning the engine before i do this new cooler replacement.390 k
Is there water at the front most end of the oil cooler I see a drip there not sure if it's coming from the cooler or somewhere else? Oil looks good, coolant system leaking somewhere.
Also some fine steel wool, lighter fluid. I want to say there’s blue lock tight on my black orings lmk if you see it on yours? I may put some instead of grease
@@wolfwowitz I always slowly tighten my bolts and take them out, then repeat, then a final 1/4 past tight, our would do that with desert racing trucks anytime we were messing with aluminum,
Have you ever seen the gasket between the cooler housing and front cover go bad? I got a small leak right there and that’s what I think it is. Also don’t want to change my cooler on my own, this video gives me some confidence.
That job looks like the kind you wear clothes you hate too, mines leaking coolant when warm I sure hope it isn’t that cooler. Nice job though you make it look easy!
Can the cooler be installed with both ends on the tube, or does it have to go in piece by piece like you've done here? Really appreciate the warnings about that aluminum front cover. This will be my first time. 02 F250 7.3L w 400k miles. No idea if its ever been done on this truck, bought it at 325k miles.
I prefer the method I showed otherwise your trying to stick it in a press or whatnot to get the ends on which can also result in cracking one of them. I can almost guarantee yours has been done at least once.
I’ve seen a lot of people talk about flushing the oil and coolant out when you do this job. I’m gonna do mine soon but I noticed you just drained each and didn’t flush them. Is it necessary or just a drain will do?
There was no contamination to the coolant system so no need here. I flush when the coolant has oil in it. I use cascade dish detergent to clean the coolant system out.
In my experience...take the whole unit out as one and put it back as one. Use the small drain plug on the block next to the back side of the cooler to lower coolant level enough for removal. If you don't have a press just use a large ratchet strap and you can get both ends "pressed" onto the cooler while it's sitting on your work bench. Make sure you clean up the bores on the two "end caps" that get installed on the cooler tube!!! Use some Permatex High Tack on both gasket surfaces (cooler and engine) so your gaskets remain in place while you go to install. I put the gaskets on the cooler and just slowly positioned the unit into place. There is no need to pull your front wheel or fender liner. Super dirty shitty job laying on your back for sure. Clean everything super well while you are in there so you can pinpoint leaks in the future!
@@alsaku33 since you just picked my video apart sounds like you should go make your own video. Done over a hundred with my method. I have a lift, I like working standing up, and having a clear line of site to do the job right that’s why I remove the wheel and liner.
@@AutomedicGarage oh man didn’t mean to sound like that at all, I was just adding a comment to try and help anyone else. I have watched lots of your videos and have learned a ton from you. I have done a lot to my old 7.3. I have a breakdown video of my truck and have done all the work myself, check it out if you get bored and give me some pointers!
@@alsaku33I can understand where your coming from. The idea also that the author could have touched on was like the rest of us maybe don't have a lift or press. Offering sound advice on helping out us all on this project is what I was looking for specifically in the comments. Great video btw, thank you sir!
My 2000 f350 7.3 has black oil in the radiator. I changed the oil and change the antifreeze and let it run. Next day I see black thick oil again in my radiator Reservoir. Please tell me what to do? 🙏
Flush the system with cascade dish detergent then immediately drain it reseal/replace the oil cooler then flush it again with the cascade until it’s a clean system.
Hey brother had another question, is there a safe and good way to clean all the dirt and gunk from under your vehicle around the engine area without damaging anything?
Can't get it back together it's like the green o ring is to fat using mahle gs33680 took to local shop still wouldn't press together new tube same length need help any suggestions
Is it fuel or oil in your coolant? If it’s fuel in def not your oil cooler, only oil and coolant have the possibility of mixing there. Fuel can only get in from a cracked cup. Are you sure it isn’t residual from before the fix? Whenever I have contamination of oil or fuel in a coolant system I flush with garden hose water then flush with cascade dish detergent, not dis soap but liquid dishwasher detergent. I’ll premix the detergent in some jugs of hot water and shake it up then pour it in and go drive the truck. Then drain and flush with water again.
good video, I wouldnt recommend putting the oil cooler in that way, you're pushing in with the pry bar from the back you have no way of seeing if the seals stayed on the oil cooler in the front. I'd play it safe and press both sides if you can
@@rstar4083 do it your way then, you ever seen what a press can do to your aluminum end pieces? Done hundreds of these this way, never had a leak but hey who am I. Just a idiot who does this everyday.
Following along and I was putting it all back in and lost the spring I heard it shoot ND hit the pan but we can't find it anywhere. Is there anyway it could have made its way inside?
@@Bmxr1991 go buy cascade liquid dish detergent. Not dish soap. Mix in a gallon jug of hot water. Shake it up till dissolved and dump it in. Mix it pretty stout and go drive the truck. Repeat as necessary. Depending on how bad it is it may not clean it up totally but the cascade cuts the oil and grease pretty good. That’s what I’ve always used.
@@AutomedicGarage is there a way I can send you a picture of the side of my block where the filter side of the manifold goes it looks like the gasket material ate up the surface area
theoretically , can you just remove it from the oil filter side and reach in to the front to remove the o rings and change it that way, mine is not leaking from the gasket up front
because the gasket in between the housing and the front cover is absolutely dry and why take a chance in breaking the ears off the front cover if its not leaking the oil is leaking when its cold from the front o ring when its cold only , Im sure its just a bad o ring, my engine has a half million miles, so I just dont see opening up a can of worms if I dont have to
Quick question I have a 7.3 I have oil in the coolant ! I’m guessing it’s the oil cooler vs the heads …… do you know if it might be more the oil cooler than the heads
@@AutomedicGarage yeah !!!!! Thank you I’m assuming it’s oil tbh because I’ve had an oil leak , my coolant literally disappears when I drive as well. I can do the injectors or heads glow plugs when I have the time or the oil cooler. But I’m more leaning towards the oil cooler being the culprit because it’s never been changed out since I’ve had my baby girl ! But I have brand new heads and injectors in her !
Can the oil from the front position of the oil cooler drip down to where it makes it seem like there’s front main seal leak? Just bought a 03 7.3 and I’m trying to narrow down some oil leak it’s got.
Could easily be something in the valley leaking down. I have had that in majority of the 7.3s I have owned. The rear and front main seals almost never go bad in these. Did you end up narrowing it down?
@AutomedicGarage thanks for responding!!! Looking at a 1990 wrecker guy thinks it needs head work!!! He doesn't know diesels, I'm hoping it's the oil cooler, everything works good price just hoping it's an easy fix!!! If not I'll be in touch!!!!
Hey bud, I have a question my truck it’s an 04 F250 I will start it and it idles fine. I give it throttle and it’s revs up good but once I put it in drive and press on the throttle, it won’t do nothing. I can press the throttle all the way to the floor and it doesn’t move at all. I’ll put it back in neutral or park and I give it throttle a revs, fine, and everything. where should I start looking? thank you in advance.
Fuel pressure is good vgt is at 85% at idles and it goes down to 50 or 60% when push on the gas when I put it in drive, I won’t do anything stays at 85%
I am 71 years old and partially disabled so doing this is almost impossible for me. If I bring the truck to you in Tenn. how much would you charge me to do this job?
Dios bendiga mi hermano pastor Gavito saludos de sus hermanos de Guatemala 🇬🇹 ya se sabía que el es el que esta arreglando ese pacto hermano Gavito cuando estaba su suegro en la precedencia el mismo DJT le dijo al yerno ve arregla el problema en Israel 🇮🇱 si no lo haces nadie lo va hacer ya está planeado Jaret CUSHNER la la entomologías oh! el significado es el que bajo así es mi hermano pastor Gavito bendiciones desde NJ
Lee is pretty lucky to be working in the shop with his dad all the time, a lot of good knowledge being passed down right there.
I love my shop time with my buddy. He’s pretty good at it already to only be 15. Thanks for the compliment and watching as always.
Watched half a dozen vids on the oil cooler seal and this is the best.
This is the most informative video ever. I have. 2002 ford excursion lifted and it makes this job so much easier.. I followed this step by step and I tell you it looks very easy to do.. 1st time owner of a 7.3 diesel . This thing has 350 k miles on it and it’s the best unicorn engine I ever owned
That’s awesome bud
Thanks for the video. Saved it to my 7.3 repair playlist. New 7.3 owner here. Would that drain bolt help drain the tube before removing the back housing and spilling antifreeze everywhere? 3:17
I've got a top down oil leak situation, so since I don't know where the actual leaks are... I'm probably going to be doing this soon... Thanks for letting me see how it's done and now that I've seen it, I should be ok... appreciate it
Great video, not sweating this job anymore, just the mess! Every leak I have looks like its from bad O-rings. Thank you for your content.
Surge thing. Thanks for watching
Stellar video. I was looking for an easier way to get my front housing off. My ‘00 Excursion just getting warmed up at 280k. Thanks for the how to
Drew, you've always impressed me with your vast knowledge of all mechanics in this area. You must've started out young or had one great teacher.👍👍God Bless! Happy Easter.
Both. My dad has always fixed everything himself. Ran his own construction company and we always fixed all our own trucks, tractors and equipment. Only thing we ever paid to have done was automatic transmission rebuilds. Thanks for the compliment.
I have done two of these. About to do a third. I remove the 1/4" block drain by the oil filter no mess(shower). Than unbolt the three bolts on the rear housing and pry the cooler and rear housing from the front. I have left the front housing bolted on the last two of these that ive done just clean inside of it and press the cleaned reringed cooler back into the front housing. They have not leaked. One was done 2 years and the other almost 5. Saves a lot of work not removing that front housing. I watched the diesel tech Ron video years ago before doing the first one. R.I.P. Ron
I always remove the front cause a lot are often oozing oil around the gasket plus if I say I’m resealing someone’s oil cooler I do it 100% and do it all. I also do not remove the plug for the coolant because once you have one strip out because of A) being over tightened by the previous mechanic or B) oxidation from the to metals causing it to strip because then you have to explain why you had to buy a new oil filter housing to the customer. I reinstall the front first and press the oil cooler into it also.
Drain plug on the block not the filter housing. Not cutt'n on your vids man. Now that these trucks are over 20 should do both. I only work on my trucks and van(u joint off road ambulance 4×4) i'll be steam cleaning the engine before i do this new cooler replacement.390 k
@@frankvacanti5277 good deal. Thanks for watching
thank you my friend I, have a 7.3 cooler oil is liking thank you GOD bless you and your family from NJ
Very good explanation for everything definitely worth to watch
I would trust your work.thanks
Love your videos man thank you so much you are very appreciated you help me learn how to work on my own truck and save money as well
Thanks bud glad it helped
Is there water at the front most end of the oil cooler I see a drip there not sure if it's coming from the cooler or somewhere else? Oil looks good, coolant system leaking somewhere.
As a 6.0 owner, I envy how much easier a 7.3 oil cooler fix is. But I don’t envy the golden shower at the beginning 😂
I overpaid for a beat up 7.3L because I knew even if it was funky, it was fixable...
I'm about to do mine thanks for the video
In the process of mine and let me tell you a 2ft extension for the 3/8 ratchet and soaking the bolts with wd/40 made it easier
Also some fine steel wool, lighter fluid.
I want to say there’s blue lock tight on my black orings lmk if you see it on yours? I may put some instead of grease
Did you say 18 foot pounds on the first one then 216 foot pounds on the rear? What's the torque specs?
@@wolfwowitz I always slowly tighten my bolts and take them out, then repeat, then a final 1/4 past tight, our would do that with desert racing trucks anytime we were messing with aluminum,
Mine had a front cap that was cracked. Had to pull it 3 different times
Thanks for the video, a kiddie pool is also handy to catch coolant.
Have you ever seen the gasket between the cooler housing and front cover go bad? I got a small leak right there and that’s what I think it is. Also don’t want to change my cooler on my own, this video gives me some confidence.
Not a hard job just messy. Yes, they can leak there but most commonly leak at the orings front or rear.
@@AutomedicGarageI had a blown oil cooler and got oil in the coolant reservoir, how long will that last?
@@brandonwestbroek7787 if left that way it will end up softening up all your coolant hoses
That job looks like the kind you wear clothes you hate too, mines leaking coolant when warm I sure hope it isn’t that cooler. Nice job though you make it look easy!
It’s not bad, get dirty and fix it.
Can the cooler be installed with both ends on the tube, or does it have to go in piece by piece like you've done here?
Really appreciate the warnings about that aluminum front cover. This will be my first time. 02 F250 7.3L w 400k miles. No idea if its ever been done on this truck, bought it at 325k miles.
I prefer the method I showed otherwise your trying to stick it in a press or whatnot to get the ends on which can also result in cracking one of them. I can almost guarantee yours has been done at least once.
I’ve seen a lot of people talk about flushing the oil and coolant out when you do this job. I’m gonna do mine soon but I noticed you just drained each and didn’t flush them. Is it necessary or just a drain will do?
There was no contamination to the coolant system so no need here. I flush when the coolant has oil in it. I use cascade dish detergent to clean the coolant system out.
Great video. Thanks a lot!
In my experience...take the whole unit out as one and put it back as one. Use the small drain plug on the block next to the back side of the cooler to lower coolant level enough for removal. If you don't have a press just use a large ratchet strap and you can get both ends "pressed" onto the cooler while it's sitting on your work bench. Make sure you clean up the bores on the two "end caps" that get installed on the cooler tube!!!
Use some Permatex High Tack on both gasket surfaces (cooler and engine) so your gaskets remain in place while you go to install. I put the gaskets on the cooler and just slowly positioned the unit into place. There is no need to pull your front wheel or fender liner. Super dirty shitty job laying on your back for sure. Clean everything super well while you are in there so you can pinpoint leaks in the future!
@@alsaku33 since you just picked my video apart sounds like you should go make your own video. Done over a hundred with my method. I have a lift, I like working standing up, and having a clear line of site to do the job right that’s why I remove the wheel and liner.
@@AutomedicGarage oh man didn’t mean to sound like that at all, I was just adding a comment to try and help anyone else. I have watched lots of your videos and have learned a ton from you. I have done a lot to my old 7.3. I have a breakdown video of my truck and have done all the work myself, check it out if you get bored and give me some pointers!
@@alsaku33I can understand where your coming from. The idea also that the author could have touched on was like the rest of us maybe don't have a lift or press. Offering sound advice on helping out us all on this project is what I was looking for specifically in the comments. Great video btw, thank you sir!
Do you have to remove the front housing to change the leaking orings if the gasket isn't leaking?
You wouldn’t have to but why not?
My 2000 f350 7.3 has black oil in the radiator. I changed the oil and change the antifreeze and let it run. Next day I see black thick oil again in my radiator Reservoir. Please tell me what to do? 🙏
Flush the system with cascade dish detergent then immediately drain it reseal/replace the oil cooler then flush it again with the cascade until it’s a clean system.
I removed the block heater to drain it, it’s messy but not as bad.
That’s what I do
Hey bud I am about to do mine on my 7.3, I was gonna ask you how’s the fell-pro brand has been to you? Any issues at all
I like fel pro. Trusted alot if their gaskets. Mahle is great also.
So the gaskets doesn't need a sealer to prevent leaks or they work fine without a sealer
The front and rear base of the oil cooler has a metal gasket with rubber made into it. No sealer is used.
Hey brother had another question, is there a safe and good way to clean all the dirt and gunk from under your vehicle around the engine area without damaging anything?
If the front is hard to get to can you just leave it and replace from there back ?
@@brentrlarson4153 I always replace both gaskets and remove both
Can't get it back together it's like the green o ring is to fat using mahle gs33680 took to local shop still wouldn't press together new tube same length need help any suggestions
Even tried old tube still wouldn't go together
@@brentrlarson4153 are they greased up good?
I was indeed pissed off when I cracked the housing
Changing the block heater? Definitely not a fun time.
If I replaced my injector cups but still getting fuel in my coolant ‘ should I change my oil cooler O-rings?
Is it fuel or oil in your coolant? If it’s fuel in def not your oil cooler, only oil and coolant have the possibility of mixing there. Fuel can only get in from a cracked cup. Are you sure it isn’t residual from before the fix? Whenever I have contamination of oil or fuel in a coolant system I flush with garden hose water then flush with cascade dish detergent, not dis soap but liquid dishwasher detergent. I’ll premix the detergent in some jugs of hot water and shake it up then pour it in and go drive the truck. Then drain and flush with water again.
Thank you...
good video, I wouldnt recommend putting the oil cooler in that way, you're pushing in with the pry bar from the back you have no way of seeing if the seals stayed on the oil cooler in the front. I'd play it safe and press both sides if you can
@@rstar4083 do it your way then, you ever seen what a press can do to your aluminum end pieces? Done hundreds of these this way, never had a leak but hey who am I. Just a idiot who does this everyday.
Following along and I was putting it all back in and lost the spring I heard it shoot ND hit the pan but we can't find it anywhere. Is there anyway it could have made its way inside?
Lost what spring?
@@AutomedicGarageI know wth he’s even talking about 🤷♂️
I am thinking about using degreaser to flush the system, in a few hours. What do you think should I send it or get something better?
Do you have oil in your coolant?
@@AutomedicGarage yes, ALOT
@@Bmxr1991 go buy cascade liquid dish detergent. Not dish soap. Mix in a gallon jug of hot water. Shake it up till dissolved and dump it in. Mix it pretty stout and go drive the truck. Repeat as necessary. Depending on how bad it is it may not clean it up totally but the cascade cuts the oil and grease pretty good. That’s what I’ve always used.
@@AutomedicGarage thank you very much.
@@AutomedicGarage is there a way I can send you a picture of the side of my block where the filter side of the manifold goes it looks like the gasket material ate up the surface area
theoretically , can you just remove it from the oil filter side and reach in to the front to remove the o rings and change it that way, mine is not leaking from the gasket up front
Yes, but why not change the front gasket? Only 2 bolts and doesn’t take much more time.
thanks appreciate the advice and the video@@AutomedicGarage
because the gasket in between the housing and the front cover is absolutely dry and why take a chance in breaking the ears off the front cover if its not leaking the oil is leaking when its cold from the front o ring when its cold only , Im sure its just a bad o ring, my engine has a half million miles, so I just dont see opening up a can of worms if I dont have to
@@guglielmodicarlo4139 no chance I’m breaking the ears unless you over torque them. It’s not difficult at all
What would you recommend to clean the oil cooler?
I pressure wash most parts with purple power. If it’s something I can’t get wet then I use brake clean and tooth brushes
@@AutomedicGarage so you used degreaser on this and pressure washed it?
I cracked my housing now I’m pissed off 😂 fml !
Quick question I have a 7.3 I have oil in the coolant ! I’m guessing it’s the oil cooler vs the heads …… do you know if it might be more the oil cooler than the heads
Your sure it’s oil and not diesel? If you messed up the heads on a 7.3 you’ve really done something cause that’s rare.
@@AutomedicGarage I’m 50 percent sure it’s oil ….. I’m hoping it’s oil not diesel tbh
@@4.5_shammer if it’s oil it’s injector cups. They aren’t that bad to do
@@AutomedicGarage yeah !!!!! Thank you I’m assuming it’s oil tbh because I’ve had an oil leak , my coolant literally disappears when I drive as well. I can do the injectors or heads glow plugs when I have the time or the oil cooler. But I’m more leaning towards the oil cooler being the culprit because it’s never been changed out since I’ve had my baby girl ! But I have brand new heads and injectors in her !
Can the oil from the front position of the oil cooler drip down to where it makes it seem like there’s front main seal leak? Just bought a 03 7.3 and I’m trying to narrow down some oil leak it’s got.
It can cause the fan will blow the oil back into the front of the motor. Degrease everything get it warmed up and look for the drip.
Could easily be something in the valley leaking down. I have had that in majority of the 7.3s I have owned. The rear and front main seals almost never go bad in these. Did you end up narrowing it down?
This is the same oil cooler used on the INH dt-466.
Yep. They share a lot of parts
I like the dt466 a lot also. Good ole reliable work horse.
Anything different with a 1990 7.3??
@@robertstarnes639 pretty sure the IDI is the same
@AutomedicGarage thanks for responding!!! Looking at a 1990 wrecker guy thinks it needs head work!!! He doesn't know diesels, I'm hoping it's the oil cooler, everything works good price just hoping it's an easy fix!!! If not I'll be in touch!!!!
Hey bud, I have a question my truck it’s an 04 F250 I will start it and it idles fine. I give it throttle and it’s revs up good but once I put it in drive and press on the throttle, it won’t do nothing. I can press the throttle all the way to the floor and it doesn’t move at all. I’ll put it back in neutral or park and I give it throttle a revs, fine, and everything. where should I start looking? thank you in advance.
Any CEL? What’s you VGT %? Have you checked fuel pressure?
Fuel pressure is good vgt is at 85% at idles and it goes down to 50 or 60% when push on the gas when I put it in drive, I won’t do anything stays at 85%
@@julioalfaro4359 FICM volts?
48volts
@@julioalfaro4359 do you still have a egr
I am 71 years old and partially disabled so doing this is almost impossible for me. If I bring the truck to you in Tenn. how much would you charge me to do this job?
$300 labor plus oil, filter, coolant
I will certainly give that some thought but the leak is so bad I am not sure it would make the trip. Where are you in Tenn?@@AutomedicGarage
@@clydereid8602 Arlington
Regular grease sponges the rubber over time..
It’s a pertroleum based grease. No different than the petroleum based rotella oil they are exposed to all the time.
Cheese balls
O-rings just a little dry. Sounds like grandma dropped one of her candies out of her purse.
Dios bendiga mi hermano pastor Gavito saludos de sus hermanos de Guatemala 🇬🇹 ya se sabía que el es el que esta arreglando ese pacto hermano Gavito cuando estaba su suegro en la precedencia el mismo DJT le dijo al yerno ve arregla el problema en Israel 🇮🇱 si no lo haces nadie lo va hacer ya está planeado Jaret CUSHNER la la entomologías oh! el significado es el que bajo así es mi hermano pastor Gavito bendiciones desde NJ
What in the