BIG Reasons Why DIYers Should Stop Wiring Their Outlets This Way | How To Make a Pigtail
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- Опубликовано: 16 дек 2022
- In this video I am going to talk about how the old way of connecting outlets may be inferior and why you might want to think about using pigtails. If you don't know how to make a pigtail, I am going going to show you how I make mine and where I use them. Of course we always want to be mindful of our box calculations and not overfilling them so depending on the box you are using might affect which method you use.
Items In The Video:
Eaton Commercial Grade Receptacle: amzn.to/3PDe8Ok
14/2 Romex Wiring: amzn.to/3WrE1Tm
12/2 Romex Wiring: amzn.to/3PwUmUB
Ideal Wire Nut: amzn.to/3YA5wf9
Wago Multi Pack: amzn.to/3HLtoGO
2 Gang Old Work Box: amzn.to/3BIIhWp
Lineman Pliers: amzn.to/3hFaNS1
Wire Strippers: amzn.to/3BDUrA3
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Blessings,
Adam
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I pigtail every device box. I am a Master Electrician that's been in the trade for over 35 years. I have seen so many problems caused by using a receptacles terminals to complete a circuit instead of pigtailing the wires. Even if everything is done perfect you can still have power quality issues and failures when several devices are being relied on to have the circuit completed. The worse method i usually see, although Code compliant, is having a dozen receptacles daisy chained as well as back-stabbed. Back-stabbing is fine if you are pigtailing and only connecting one hot and neutral to the outlet, otherwise it has a higher potential for failure. Pigtailing is the only way to go. My company policy, even in the hyper-competitive new residential market is to pigtail and screw-wrap ALL devices. It's slower but far superior and not as likely to fail.
Thanks a lot for taking the time to offer your professional recommendation and experience!
Agreed. I have just recently found a backstabbed outlet feeding another outlet and it was leeching voltage (only had 71vac) when I tested the two outlets.
I promptly replaced both and correctly wired them. All tested and by the book (also common sense to some). The risk of fire was avoided that day.
"Practice will make perfect unless your practicing skydiving without a parachute." - me
Correctly maintaining maximum amperage to each receptacle is mostly to use pigtail wiring, not pulling other receptacle amperage through the first receptacle.
@@genespliced don’t you just love it when people on here say we shouldn’t twist wires together just put them under the wire nuts and let the nut hold them , somebody told me that once and I laughed but I tried it just to see how it would work and my experience is the wires. If you have like more than four, they don’t all stay in the wire nut so with receptacles we’ve got at least three wires ,in and out ,and then possibly even more, so I was taught from the first day I started doing electrical work to twist the wires and make sure I have a solid connection before applying a wire nut. I know manufacturers say it’s ok , well they said that about back stabbing in the 1980’s, how many thousands of houses burned down from doing this I wonder, you cannot trust manufacturers, they want to sell their product, as far as Wago’s or push in connectors go when your installing recessed in a 2 story cathedral ceiling I wouldn’t trust anything except a well twisted and wirenutted connection each one having been doubled checked by pulling on it to make sure it’s nice and secure, but that’s just me , you know what they say , opinions are like assholes , everybody has one
@@genespliced That is correct, but only required if you are installing receptacles on a multi-wire branch circuit. If you run 12-2, for example, to feed several receptacles, the neutral can be made up on the individual receptacles terminals just like the hot instead of pigtailed. Pigtailing the neutral is only required at each receptacle if the receptacles are fed by a MWBC. It isn't something I do, but not against NEC. Open a neutral on a single circuit, you simply lose the return path and no power can flow, but if you open the neutral on an energized MWBC, you can have a really bad day.
Thank you for all your videos, your channel is fantastic! You explain everything perfectly. Keep up the great work!
Wow, you are very welcome. Really glad to hear you have been getting value from the channel. Really means a lot to me. Thanks a lot for the feedback Christian!
some of the circuits in my house were incredibly unstable. Finally, an electrician diagnosed it as 40 year old sockets, wired socket to socket without pigtails. The sockets were simply coming loose. He replaced a couple and the stability went way up! Now, every time we move furniture, I replace the sockets behind the furniture with a pigtail connection and the stability continues to get better. We also found circuits wired backwards (hot to neutral). Without using pigtails, once you get it backwards, everything downline is backwards. I think I've got the worst of it, but have a long way to go! Do it right and you'll save yourself lots of problems. I love the Wago style connectors too. Makes it faster for me!
Reversed wiring is why I always tell people to check all possible combinations of wires with your multimeter to verify there is absolutely no voltage:
Hot-Neutral
Hot-Ground
Neutral-Ground
@@docferringer I just used the standard tester with 3 lights. Was wiring new sockets, I checked my work and it was backwards. I checked the physical wiring, it was correct. So I started working backwards with the cheap $10 tester and eventually found the source. Once the source was identified, I called a licensed electrician. We checked every outlet in the house, found all the incorrectly wired sockets and had them fixed. I learned, never trust your predecessor, double checked everything.
I'm going to make a bet that not only were they wired socket-to-socket, but I bet they were done as "back-stab" terminations weren't they?
@@svyt That's the strange part, for the most part, no, they used the screw terminals for all but the outlet controlled by a light switch. The switch used back stabs, but the rest were on the screws. At least they tried on that one. Oh, and to make the problem even better, the outlets wired backwards included the exterior outlets. Nothing like mixing rain and an open circuit. Just glad no one got hurt over the life of this house.
@@user-lp3cf5yn5bThe house was over 40 years old when I bought it. A number of neighbors complained about similar problems. The thought is that the electrician employed by the developer was more than a bit sloppy. Perhaps an apprentice did some of the work and it was never double checked. Perhaps the electrician was drunk, I just don't know. One neighbor replaced every outlet in the house to fix their problems. Joys of tract homes built in the late 1970's. The rest of the house is pretty solid, but the electrical needs help. So, I'm working my way through the place one outlet at a time.
I enjoy this channel great information for a DYI person, and helps to ensure I’m doing good and safe work.
Just found your channel. Great content! Your info on electrical wiring is especially helpful. Thank you!
Excellent like always brother, very informative .
Congrats!
Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Charlie!
Yeah, I use the wire nuts and the Wago. When I use the wire nuts I prefer to pre-twist. I always looked at the wire nut as more of a way to insulate than to make the connection. Although I have tested it out and it works without pre-twisting.
The Wago lever nuts are great when you have a lot of wires to connect in a single box. I remodeled our master bathroom and used Wagos because everything went through the GFCI outlet. I did have to daisy chain everything from it to connect it properly so that everything in the bathroom would be protected by it. I ran a pigtail from it to the Wagos though and then connected everything else to it. I don't think I connected the incoming power to the middle. I think I just connected it to one end and then added everything else in line. I had to use the 5 conductor lever nuts for it. I personally don't think it matters which order it goes in but it does make sense to put the incoming power in the middle that way if there is a failure it's possible that the other end of the circuit still works. I think in the future I will do this.
The other reason I like Wago lever nuts is when I hook up a light or something with stranded cables. It's so hard to make a good connection by twisting stranded wire with solid wire. I have seen too many failures this way.
I'm glad you made this video though. I have so many plugs in my house that have gone out and caused other issues down the line. We have 2 bedrooms in our house that run off a single breaker. the plugs are all basically daisy-chained together. I wish I had the money and patients to rerun another line to put one of the rooms on a different breaker. Until that day comes though I think I'm going to start replacing the plugs that I know are bad and use pigtails like you suggested so the same issue doesn't happen again. It seems like daisy chaining just puts too much power through the first outlet in the chain. Especially when we have the air conditioners running in the summer. I really should get them on their own circuit though.
Hey Brian, really glad to hear you are diligent in trying to make sure you are doing things the right way. I agree that the wagos have their advantages and wire nuts have theirs. Thanks a lot for taking the time to share your thoughts, feedback, and personal experience!
Absolutely pretwist for wire nut, except a stranded light wire to solid wire.
Recently replaced a loose outdoor outlet + box. Previous installer had used an outlet with 8 backstab holes to daisy chain three sets of wires. The whole thing (wires + the outlet itself) literally fell apart in my hands as soon as I unscrewed it from the box. Absolutely stunned this setup didn't cause a fire.
Many likes and subs! I really enjoy your videos, clear, concise and to the pt! I really like that your videos are around 10 minutes and it always seems to go so fast! I am learning a lot for you Adam so many thanks!
Easy to follow. Thanks for the tip.
You are very welcome Clarence! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
One of if not the best video, really clear explanation of the procedure, great job & thanks !!
Thank you for this excellent video. I learned a great deal. The pig tail makes perfect sense once I saw it demonstrated. Carry On Sir!
How do you prefer to connect your different outlet devices? Also if you have any knowledge to add, please feel free to leave it in the comments so everyone in the community can benefit! Thank You! 👍
It would be nice if you made a video lesson about how to troubleshoot a short circuit compared to a ground fault using a digital ohm meter DVM and can tell the difference between a ground fault and a short circuit.
I always thought pigtail was code a long time a go for all 3 conductors?
Never had a problem with daisy-chaining.
Our house in Pennsylvania was wired with junction boxes. Nothing was daisy chained. But we only had three outlet receptacles in each bedroom the window side had no outlet. I don't remember mom and dad's room it may have had four. The junction boxes were in the attic the BX greenfield went to all the receptacle boxes I think dad used number 10 gauge wire. We had thirty amp fuses to all the outlet receptacles and light circuits. Lighting was on its own circuit. Which is better than with the outlets. If we had a short we were never in the dark. I guess I caused most of the short circuits when I was a child I was playing with electricity since I was 4 years old. I learned the hard way of respecting electricity. I should have been an electrician instead I went for electronics. 73
@@scruples671 my sister had pool cleaner pump and pool circulation pump both were wired 120 volts and shared a neutral but the neutral got hot to touch. I believe in using separate lines for both pumps. But when I installed the outside breaker box I rewired both pumps for 240 volts which was better and had power to spare for the art studio which was a better shed closed in with AC unit and receptacles and trac lighting 73
I always pre-twist the equipment ground wires simply because it pulls them all close together and being they are un-insulated it helps keep them from getting into hot areas in the box.
Thank you for the video! I am sold on the wago connectors,, it seems a lot more secured and clean.
Thank you for your videos. You've been so very helpful in helping me understand how to properly wire my home! ♥️
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you have found value in the channel! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
A convenient aspect of Linemans Pliers is that the mouth often the cutter is 1/2" wide; so if you put your pre-twisted wires in up to the insulation, you'll have a perfect 1/2" of twisted wire to go into your wire nut. This insures no bare wire outside of the nut.
+1 .. Agreed ... "The Devil is in the Details"
To me this is common knowledge but many DIYers do not know this also there are different sizes of these pliers typically in off brans at cheap stores that are not the ISO size you want to have.
@@Elfnetdesigns the other issue is that you have to get used to the feel of stripping with them. It's easy for a DIYer to squeeze a little too hard and nick the wire leaving a weak spot or losing strands. That's why they tell you to use strippers for the purpose. Yes, they do make linesman's that have strippers on the back, however, I've found the crimp tool on the back a more useful option.
Very helpful video. I've gone through all of the switches and outlets in our house. God knows what some professional/licensed electricians were thinking when they were installed. (Maybe it was up to code 40 years ago.) It took days, but we're feeling a lot safer. For some questionable stuff, I called in the local electrical inspector. I can't say for everywhere, but they come out for "free" (included in your taxes) here. Keep up the good work!!
40 years ago code was very VERY different then today. Heck, Knob and tube was still in play until I think the early 50's, and then soldering the wires in the walls and receptacles was a thing until the late 80's... I got to update a few homes that had soldered connections... Gosh dang I can't believe they didn't burn down...
40 years ago? Houses built in the late 60's to early 70's are known for having aluminum wiring. talk about a nightmare.
Great demo, have been looking to add a switch for another set of lights.
Brother this is so awesome you are sharing your trade I know a lot about plumbing but very little about electrical but having trouble and I think I can do some investigating and probably fix my issues fairly simple.
Measure the resistance between the outside vs between the side and middle. That resistance is the difference for the circuit. It would be similar to using 2 connectors resistance wise. It's very minimal.
Pre-twisting helps keep wire lengths aligned. Maybe about 1.5 turns. Some prefer to pre-twist 2 turns and cut off the little excess. Do not over-twist.
A pair of electrician pliers will save some grief : used to pre-twist and also post twist to provide a little more force than what might be possible with fingers alone. Insulation strip length is correct when skirt of wire nut covers insulation but insulation does not interfere with connection. Have a habit to point wire nuts upward to avoid water collection in case of flood or water leakage. To connect to stranded wire squeeze solid wire with pliers to roughen surface by impression left and put a subtle double "s" bend in feed end. This will catch the multi-strand wire and prevent it from slipping around when the wire nut is twisted on. For a stranded wire connections a Wago is probably better for faster secure connection if time is limited.
Try not to work harden the wire by to much bending -- plan you bends ahead. Shoot for Six inches of free lead length in the box -- that is the basis of box fill calculations. Use Pig Tails were needed and consider the pigs tails as conductors in the permitted box fill chart. That box where a freed T's into two directions might need to be bigger and end of line box could be smaller. Also, check local codes to see if service loop slack is required. Most code enforcement branches will have a hand out guide for basic domestic wiring : Follow that to prevent having to redo your work. Modern 14 gauge is under spec 10% -- use 12 gauge for any heavy load or long length. Lighting circuits are likely 14 gauge OK. But something like a microwave or A/C will benefit from full capacity feed.
@dunckeroo1987 - Nice post, thank you.
DIY’ers don’t need to quit doing that. Your whole video was about preference, that’s it. Every electrician has a preference for most things, doesn’t mean there’s anything wrong with another electrician’s preference. When I was an apprentice I made a point of asking the journeymen I worked with why they did things certain ways, the answer was usually because that’s how someone showed them. I worked for a large company and the apprentices rotated every 4 months to different areas and different journeymen and I learned a lot of different ways to do things.
Cool
great demo! we'll make sure to keep this in mind.
I agree with you mostly. However, if you buy the more expensive outlets, they generally can clamp a straight wire with no need for bending a Sheppard's crook on the wire. The hot & neutral on these can hold two wires each. You put both wires on the same clamp to feed the next device. No need to go to the trouble of pigtailing, but you are not feeding through your outlet either.
But, if you are doing Old Work, be careful that both conductors are the same gauge. A 12ga conductor will keep the clamp from holding tightly to a 14ga.
Those flat clamp type receptacles , unless they are Hubble brand are not that great , I still bend the wire into a hook and push the flat part down and have the screw only tighten it down , I’ve never had that type of connection fail in 45 years
Pigtails are ok to do as long as you twist the wires in a nice barber shop pole spiral and use only quality wire nuts Buchanan reds or ideal tans , not those cheap plastic red And yellow round splined wire nuts and those push in wire connectors are not a good connector in my opinion
That's not allowed in a lot of places either. They still consider that daisy chaining. You must pig tail. The best advice is to consult your inspector before doing the work to verify what they will approve. Even though pig tailing might not be required by NEC code, you don't want to have to rework the entire project later if the inspector wants them anyway
@@markvanbritsom4209 WAGO and similar "push ins" have been thoroughly tested and are just as effective as wire nuts. If they weren't the industry would not allow them to be used, especially in commercial or industrial applications where conditions are less ideal than residential. I cannot speak to your comfort with them, but for an intents and purposes, there is no technical reason not to use them. And most wire nut manufacturers actually recommend you DON'T pretwist the wires because it can defeat their internal mechanism working as designed. If installed correctly, wire nuts do not require pretwisted wires. - retired union journeyman electrician and electrical engineer
I'm going to start using Wago connectors for wiring ceiling fans and lighting overhead. It's faster and reduces fatigue working with my arms over my head. Of course I will use the ones made for twisted and solid wire. I can install 6 fans in a day but, at 70 years old, it's tiring. Cheers!
You are a great teacher! Thank you for all of the content.
I wonder- could you explain how to install a 4-position switch for a ceiling fan?
Unless you have a wire going up to the ceiling with a black white and red in it , you will not be able to separate the light from the fan
I too put the line wire in the middle slot of a Wago style connector with the load wires outboard on either side. Like you said, it makes sense to do it that way so that it minimizes the distance thru the Wago for the current to travel. No idea if this makes a difference or not, but the other benefit is that if you get back into the box at a later date, you can take some of the guesswork out of which one is the line wire and which are loads.
It definitely makes a difference, but probably not for regular electrical appliances.
This kind of symmetry is what circuit designers have to think about one you start getting high frequency signals, like the connections to RAM, CPU, GPU etc.
AlphaPhoenix has a sweet slowmo video that shows exactly what happens even electricity hits a fork in the road.
ruclips.net/video/2AXv49dDQJw/видео.htmlsi=ihdVedjpPeKBuiOH
I appreciate that your regulations in the US are different from ours in the uK but I was very surprised to see that you leave exposed copper in the unit as it could touch the L or N as you close up the front. We always used a green cover on all E wires
I've seen this happen on a video on here..wired up a gfci, closed up the box, turned power on, and sparks ! He left it in the video to make it a teachable moment
I went to the UK last year and did a load of work on my mother in law's house. I was surprised to come across these covers for Earth wires. I have never had any trouble in the US, but normally I wrap black electrical tape around the sides, which will insulate the metal screws there.
Yes, I'm an electrician from Australia and it's the same; green wire with yellow stripe. And the terminals on switches and outlets can't come into physical contact with the sides of any boxes you install them in. I live in Florida now, and installing outlets in metal boxes is insane, so easy to hit the terminal with the screws holding the wires to the terminals. Been zapped a few times just pulling live outlets out of their boxes. It's nuts in the US.
I’m a DIY but I’m pretty sure the ground is bare so that it DOES touch the metal box and ground it. And yes, I’ve had it bend and hit a hot screw when installing an outlet. I now electrical tape around the outlet if this looks possible.
@@UDumFck I can only go by the Part P regulations here in the UK. An un insulated wire in a socket box does not feel good as many boxes in plaster walls are plastic anyway. However I do find many sockets with bare earth wires
One of the advantages of pre twisting is that the wire nut is not the only thing holding the connection together. When it enviablly comes time to disassemble that joint removing the wirenut doesn't allow the joint to come apart and allow the conductors to hit anything else in the box. (something electricians who do live work care a lot about).
If you twist those wire nuts like you mean it, it doesn't matter if you pre-twist, the action of installing the wire nut will twist the wires together. (Just make sure to stop twisting before the wires break out of the top of the wire nut!)
It's a criminal offence for electricians to work live here unless there is no alternative.
Great how to for making pigtails, thanks for sharing.
I appreciate the presentation and knowledge in the comments.
Today I hired a welder for a very simple job. He did the overhead job with no gloves and nothing but his normal eyewear. He told me he shuts his eyes when he welds to protect his eyes.
I have had three electricians redo the house and that was after it was lived in for 20 years by the previous owner.
One thing you learn here in Brazil is that you have to manage everything and everybody. You cannot ask for a simple task to be completed and expect it to be done properly. It's a real pain in the neck.
Great video - thank you for including WAGO connector info - I never thought about it, but putting the live feed in the middle for the 3 and 5 port connectors make sense. I swiched to mostly WAGO connectors because I've had some issues with good connections inside the wire nut but I was not pre-twisting my wires so I will also try that.
Placement of the live feed into a wago isn't going to make a difference. It's only going to matter in cases where the load exceeds the capacity of the breaker, since the current limits of the connectors should far exceed that of the breaker.
WAGO LEVER connectors is a game changer whenever the electrical box is open and only discovered the wires were cut too short by some people simply don't care for the next time.
I'm having trouble with your explanation of why daisy chaining the outlets is bad. The method described and attributed to "most people" was to wire them in parallel, so the only failure mode that might disable other loads would be if that little metal tab that interconnects the two screws on the hot side was to somehow become disconnected. I have never heard of this happening and as a EE it is hard for me to imagine a scenario where this interconnecting piece of metal would become a fuse and "open", thus causing a problem with the other loads. There may be other reasons to avoid this technique, just not the one described in your video and above.
I disagree with this point, but I value your vids. Thanks for sticking your neck out!
To your point, the tab will not "open" and act like a fuse, unless it's severely overloaded. On a cheepo 15A recep, the connecting tab is UL rated for 20A and in order to get the UL rating it must maintain 150% of its rating. In other words, it only has a 20A rating because it can handle 30A.
The reason is that daisy chaining the outlets relies on the connection of every wire of every device in the chain. DIYers especially tend to not tighten the terminal screws sufficiently. Pros who certainly can tighten the screws properly recommend pigtailing since they don't know that the person who replaces an outlet years later will do it properly. It's much more certain to maintain a reliable splice with wire nuts or Wago connectors.
It's far more likely that the downstream outlets failing due to the tab being broken will be because "the next guy" comes along and stupidly does something unexpected.
@@mikecarr4178 Both daisy chaining and pigtailing rely on the connection of every wire, whether connected to terminal screw or splice, for the circuit to maintain continuity so I'm not sure what your point is. A bad splice has the same effect as a poor terminal connection, and vice versa. I've seen both multiple times. So DIYers especially tend to not tighten screws properly, so we should expect them to make a good splice, is that your argument? Not very logical, and where is your data that shows that DIYers don't tighten screws properly. So if a rookie changes a recep in the future won't that require that they tighten screws on the new recep, so how exactly does splicing and pig tailing now change that future process? Having taught rookies how to make splices I can assure you that making a splice is not intuitive and is much harder to grasp and perform than tightening a screw.
The tab on a recep will not break unless someone physically takes a tool to it and breaks it. It will not fail electrically due to overloading unless that cheepo 15A recep, whose tab is rated for 20A, has +30A flowing the tab (UL498). I do an installation based on following applicable codes and using the methods and lessons I've learned in over 40 years as an electrician. I do not and cannot make wiring decisions based on "what if stupid x in the future." If that was my standard, I've have to overbuild every aspect of projects and I'd be out of business quickly. Daisy chaining and pig tailing, when done properly, are equal in integrity and function and while you and others have shared your opinions and beliefs, nobody has provided any actual evidence that one is better than the other. Pros recommend pigtailing because of the long standing myth in the trade that pigtailing is better, not because they've thought it through and made an informed decision based on what someone might do in the future. Most opinions on this topic are based on lack of experience and knowledge, thanks for yours.
@@mikecarr4178 Thank you, I appreciate the follow up and see your point. I always use a pigtail too, so I don't disagree. Being pedantic in chat again, trying to understand it MY way.
I just ran into the situation you described with one outlet daisy chained to three others. Two of my kitchen outlets weren't functioning because the first one had been disconnected due to what previous owners thought was a short. Turns out all it ended up being was one of the backstabbed hots had gotten loose, and was barely engaged. Thankfully the guy I work with is a 35 yr. trade vet, and was able to diagnose, and fix the problem. The previous owners pulled some cockamamy DIY crap by cutting the ground all the way back to the sheathing, and electrical taped the hot, and neutral to the back of the box.
Now I have to rip out drywall so I can replace the assaulted Romex so that outlet can be used safely with a ground. Crap like that is why DIY is still considered a dirty word in the trades.
Thanks for sharing your video. I enjoyed watching. Take care and God Bless.
I don't think the actual issue of power distribution is effective by putting in the center or not as a rule, but like your issue of doing Daisy chain and pig tail, putting the line in the center allows minimal failure across the small buss that is attached instead of on side having to carry full load, if all plugs are being used it will be better or more equal divided to the respective outlets and not all going through one potential failure point to go through.
Placement in the center reduces the failure potential and load on any one side of the device.
For diyers using wire nuts pre twist is the most reliable way to connect.
Never used waygo until recently and they are quite handy. And as others have commented connecting solid wire to stranded wire seems to be superior to wire nuts. I don’t subscribe to the equal load theory of placing the hot wire in the center(it shouldnt have much deviation) however always placing the hot in the center makes it a known location for incoming supply for future work inside a box.
Like many other electricians I’ve seen some really odd stuff both from diy and older electricians. But at the end of the day, if you are doing it yourself, you want to remember that mistakes when wiring is dangerous and can cost you your home or you or your loved ones lives. Taking a few extra minutes and spending a few extra dollars is the difference between a safe connection and a future catastrophe.
F wagos. run a welder on wagos. Good luck.
Tight is right. Surface area is right.
Not an electrician,far from a Master. Better safe than dead.
@@dolphincliffs8864 never said I ran a welder plug on wagos, said I used them for the first time recently, because it’s what I had that I could make work. On a 15 amp light circuit I don’t think it will be an issue. And to be fair I’ve only used wire nuts pretwisted wire connections until now. And, like it or not, wagos are NEC approved.
If you were running them from your in feed to the two recipticals and then to an outfeed would it be up to code to do kind of like a four pig tail instead of a three or would that require more work to be code?
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much.
Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Just curious what situation you were in that made this video EXACTLY what you needed? Were you having trouble with some receptacles that were not working correctly because they were wired like this?
This channel gets me to the point where I feel I can DIY but, i stop and hire an expert. But at least then I know if I'm getting ripped off or its done correctly.
Here in the UK any Part P qualified electrician has to complete a 5 page document showing what he/she has tested and the readings for the circuit. No DIY person will have the test equipment which costs about £1000
Alot of diy folks gave expensive tools, especially in that range
My local building inspector claimed that when it comes to home wiring the work of professionals and DIYers is about the same. Some perfect and some flatout dangerous.
I told my builder that his electrician was either incompetent or a liar,.. I suspect it was both which brings me to the so called building inspector,.. what a JOKE,
Great content and very informative. Awesome video quality
There won't be much difference but centering the source in the wago is an easy thing that might make a few percent difference. I assume not daisychaining the outlets helps a bit too. Though I mess with DC more where this stuff is more of a problem than with AC.
What is the difference between daisy chaining ONLY from one receptacle to a second receptacle VS using a Wago? You are sending power through a connecting bar of metal in both instances creating extra resistance, no matter how minute in each situation. If the master receptacle dies, that piece of metal is still there to send to the slave receptacle.
To be honest, I don't use wagos in outlet boxes. I use wire nuts. I have found wire nuts more reliable than daisy chaining the receptacles. The biggest problem is that when the receptacle fails it takes out all the receptacles down the line making it harder to troubleshoot.
@RageQuitSon - Good point. IMO, Wagos add unnecessary complexity and cost. The Wago shown has 3 moving parts, and adds a metal bus bar just like the outlet does. More failure points...
In Ontario Canada, you're allowed to daisy chain the live wires, but have to use the pigtail method for the neutral.
The only reason to allow that is to protect shared neutrals in multiwire branch circuits. In the US, we generally do not allow neutral sharing anymore, so daisy chaining should be more permissible. However, probably due to the history, we generally do not allow it and require pig tailing. Of all the inspectors I have encountered, none of them allow daisy chaining and haven't for a number of code cycles. YMMV
@@TwilightxKnight13 We absolutely allow neutral sharing, code reference? And inspectors don't get to forbid daisy chaining and require pigtailing when daisy chaining is code compliant.
I'm glad you used a wire nut and wago. Ideal is an American company and it's wire nuts are made in the USA . I prefer to keep as much as I can in the USA so I support using ideal wire nuts. 73
Great video. I agree that wires should ALWAYS be twisted before installing a wire nut. It’s not just DIYers, I wish some “pros” would do half as neat of a job as you’ve done here. A lot of wiring I’ve ran across as a homeowner has been atrocious! When I do my own install, I remove about 1” of insulation about 6” from the end of the wire, wrap that once around the 1st receptacle terminal screw (make a u-turn) and then connect the end to the 2nd receptacle. I do this for all 3 wires including feed through, unless they’re on a separate circuit. Also, the aircraft electrician in me can’t stand the even the thought of using any kind of push in or lever lock device. I know, different environment, but that prejudice is still there.
I use that method too. It works when wiring multiple devices in the same box and saves splices which can be a point of failure. I don't use the lever lock connectors either as I prefer the old school wire nuts.
I would think the Wago-style connectors would offer a big advantage when using smart switches or other assemblies that have built-in pigtails, since they would allow a smart switch to be removed from a passed-through hot and neutral without breaking the pass-through connection. By contrast, when using a wire nut, it would be necessary to break the connection and then re-connect the two wires.
I changed most of wall switches to smart switches i have a few more to go!..but i find the wire nuts just give a better bond!
@@RadioRich100 If a smart switch fails or otherwise needs to be replaced, and it uses a built-in pigtail connected in the same wire nut as a through connection, how would one avoid breaking the through connection while removing the switch?
What everyone else already said - plus you're going to need to shut off the circuit in order to work on the connection anyway. I'm not sure working on a live circuit is a good idea, regardless of which connector you use.
Just turn everything off. 😅
The more connections (i.e. splices) you have the greater chance of failure or problems. Rarely does a device fail, it's usually the connections (splices) that do. Plus wire nuts and Wago's aren't cheap so you're spending more money on less reliability. You now also have to consider your pigtails and connectors into your conductor count when figuring out your box fill calculations.
I’m not limiting it to the device itself but talking about everything else that you just mentioned.
@@HowToHomeDIY great video btw. Look fwd to the next.
Thanks! I really appreciate the feedback Jonathan!
Absolutely incorrect. The NEC code does not count wire nuts or locknuts, or bushings, or other ancillary parts when it comes to box fill calculations. Box fill has nothing to do with the physical space and how much of it contains materials, it has to do with heat. The more conductors you have in a box, the more heat is generated which can damage the insulation over time. The box is closed when in use so it really doesn't matter how much material is in the box, the heat cannot be easily dissipated. You can only control how much heat is introduced into the box and you do that by controlling how many conductors are bringing heat into the box. As long as your connectors physically fit inside the box, it is fine regardless of how many there are or what type (wire nut vs WAGO, etc). For more information, consult Article 314 of the NEC, especially 314.16
@@TwilightxKnight13 you are absolutely correct. I stand corrected and thank you for the clarification.
Great video. There are few videos that discuss this type of wiring of two outlets side by side.
How about wiring double outlets in multiple boxes using three way switches? Love your videos!
The feed wire being in the middle or end makes no difference. The resistance difference is so small it's practically immeasurable. I do find it helpful to take a small piece of sheathing, write the legend on it, then slip it over the hot wires if you have a more complex switch / outlet arrangement.
I agree that putting the feed wire in the middle makes no difference. When doing a job, I try my best to follow a consistent pattern of doing things so the next person can more easily interpret what I have done. I like your idea of making a legend from a small piece of sheathing.
Great job! Like you said, Daisy chaining is legal but pigtails are better in every way. I have seen numerous circuits go down due to a failure at one of the receptacles and it can be a pain to find the issue. Also pigtails make everything so much cleaner and easier.
Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback John!
Please share your evidence/data that shows pigtailing is better in every way. You can't, because that data does not exist. Terminal screws on a standard 15A recep are designed, manufactured, and UL tested and listed for 20A feedthrough current. The "failures" at receps are not simply from using terminal screws; it's because of a loose connection, overloading, etc.. I've seen failed splices, that does not mean that using terminal screws is superior to splicing. Just last month I had a dead circuit due to a failed splice. If only they had simply used the terminal screws instead of unnecessarily pigtailing, that problem would not have arisen. See how your better in every way argument can go both ways? Pigtails better than terminal screws is a very popular myth in the trade, with no actual evidence to back it up.
Pigtail can mean other things. In plumbing we refer to cords as pigtails. Not all plugs but when you add one on. Usually this is done on disposals, dishwashers, and occasionally on tankless water heaters. They’re all relatively low amp 120. I have occasionally seen them on 240 volt tank type water heaters. They’ll use a 3 prong dryer cord. I don’t do like doing this but when I think about it I can’t see what’s wrong with it. As far as I’m aware dryers pull more amps generally so the cord should be rated for it and it gives you a quick disconnect so you don’t have to use the panel. Maybe an electrician can tell me if this is good or bad.
I like your videos which I'm sure a viewed in different Countries so I think you should emphasis that the jobs you do are for your Country and anyone watching your videos should be advised that any electrical work MUST comply with the regulations for that Country. Here in the UK its Part P. But good to watch - always like to learn something new!
The best reason is because the NEC requires pigtailing receptacles. You cannot depend on a device for continuity of the neutral. NEC 300.13(B)
Not true. 300.13(B) requires pigtailing of neutrals only, and only in multi-wire branch circuits. Individual branch circuits, no pigtails required.
Edit: You are only required to pigtail the neutral and ground wire in multi-conductor circuits (meaning a hot wire from each phase of the 240VAC with a common neutral). But when I wrote my exam for my Journeyman's license they required pigtails in the test.
In the electrical world in residential wiring, it is frowned upon greatly, and in some instances not even legal to run two hots off separate phases off one neutral off a 240 V single phase panel, each hot wire must have its own neutral on 120 V circuits , the opposite phase of 120 v or some portion of it will backfeed through the neutral if something is plugged in on the phase your not working on . back in the 1980s We used to run 12-3 and 14-3 romex to feed 2 bedroom circuits, one kitchen, outlet circuit, and a dishwasher together, but that’s no longer permitted. In the electrical union since most jobs are commercial or industrial jobs that is why you are all taught to pigtail everything and for good reason , in 1985 I was a master electrician already and took the test and was second out of 400 , those tests were tough , for the newbies , there are to many people giving bad advice on RUclips for electrical work
@@markvanbritsom4209 It's not illegal to share a neutral or even frowned upon and it is most certainly still permitted, it just doesn't make sense to do it in most residential circuits. In the old days you could share a neutral and use single pole breakers just like any individual circuit; now you must either install a 2-pole breaker or 2 single pole breakers with a handle tie. Because most residential circuits require AFCI breakers, it's now impractical and expensive to share a neutral because it would require 2-pole AFCI breakers, which are expensive and not so readily available.
@@pld8993 I don't see really any afci breakers in the big box stores and majority of panels out are on old homes, heck I dealt with a home with UBI-Z type breakers
@@shadowopsairman1583 I don't get my supplies from the big box stores but I know they carry AFCI breakers, though I don't think I've ever seen 2-pole AFCIs on the their shelves.
@@shadowopsairman1583 Eaton is selling GFCI/AFCI electronic breakers. If you share the neutral it’ll trip the breaker.
Your knowledge is appreciated Sir. Thank you.
Do you prefer hooking the wires around the posts of the outlet/switch or do you prefer screwing them down under the tab/bracket?
I think pigtails should be code in the future. It removes the outlet devices from always being in the load.path- they'll last.longer and the circuit will be more reliable. BTW I never use wirenuts or Wagos on the grounds...it's unnecessary and wastes space in the box. A tight twist with a Buchanan crimp sleeve over the twist is a solid mechanical connection. RE the "even load" idea.with your Wagos... If the conductors were 100' apart might matter, but at 3-4mm apart I doubt there is testing equipment.sensitive enough to measure any load imbalance or voltage drop. It’s always good to establish a consistent wiring method though and “line in the middle” makes perfect sense for that reason.
I'm not sure why you think receps will last longer if pigtailed, given that they're designed for feedthrough current through the terminal screws. Feeding through the terminal screws is no less reliable than a good splice, and is more reliable than a bad splice.
Even when wired in series, (daisy chain) the internals of the first device are NOT in the load path. It's only the external screws and the jumper. Is there a limited life span or max current for the screws and jumper vs the rest of the circuit?
@@jamesboniface8779 Correct, in one screw and out the other has no effect on the internals o the recep. But daisy chaining is NOT series. Going in one screw and out the other is NOT series. UL498, the bridge/link between the terminal screws on a 15A recep is rated for 20A. UL testing requires that it hold 150% of its rating for 8 seconds. In other words, the bridge between terminal screws on a cheepo 15A recep must hold 30A for 8 seconds in order to be UL listed as a 15A recep. Hospital and industrial grade receps must hold 250% of their rating. Going in one terminal screw and out the other is EXACTLY how they're designed to be wired. The idea that pigtails are better than using the terminal screws is a HUGE myth in the trade and unsupported by evidence.
A personal pet peeve of mine is that I HATE when someone twists the wires several inches. That is unnecessary and makes it a nightmare if you need to go back to that box for any maintenance. Twisting only needs to be about an inch, just enough to make a good connection to all of the wires.
Commercial electrician for forty years. We normally do a combination of pig-tailing and jumpers. Some buildings literally require hundreds of two gang receptacles. We set up a senior at a table and he jumpers boxes of receptacles for a quicker installation. Now on commercial outlets many boxes have wires going in and out and there may be three sets from time to time. Along with that you're often dealing with multiwire branch circuits so you need as much of a reduction in wires as you can get. Tying the outlets together with jumpers means one set less wires having to be made up together in the box. Finally either in the national electrical code or city electrical codes that state all connections should be mechanically secure. In other words if the wire nut comes off the circuit will continue to be made. We take that to mean you are required to twist the wires together even if the box says it's not necessary. No wireman wants to remove a wire nut from a hot circuit to add another wire and then find out the wires are not twisted and they come apart under load in your hands.
Good. video, thanks. I guess everybody has their own preferences, but in my 50+ years of wiring, I have found more problems with wire nuts failing to properly hold the wires together than I have with the screw contacts on the device. I suppose for typical house wiring using #14 wire and not connecting more than three wires in a wire nut, the pigtail may be fine; however, more of my wiring requires #12 or larger and the wire nuts don't seem to be as reliable.
If you had a double outlet in a location that requires GFCI you could put the GFCI in position 1 and daisy chain a separate receptacle which would have GFCI protection.
Absolutely!
I thought that's EXACTLY how all GFCI were supposed to be wired. If you parallel a GFCI, it's only protecting itself. If you series the Line thru the GFCI, *EVERYTHING* down line from there IS protected.
Any other way sounds very specific, or dumb, depending on situation.
And I'm a DIY'er who understands that basic concept.
@@suburbangardenpermaculture3117 gfci breaker even better
No lever Wago type connectors are also an option. I'm using them more and more often. Wire nuts are so bulky.
I have the original WAGO connectors bought 25 plus years ago. The original WAGO did not have the lever. They were simply push in only. WAGO still sells them today. And Ideal and others also make them. Amazon. The lever WAGO are a lot more expensive.
Same. And the big plus of a wago over a wire nut is that you can remove wires or add another later
Have come across a few of the lever connectors (not sure of manufacturer - and do not want paint all bad) that the locking arms have released. What I did was wrap electrical tape around replacement connector.Not mandated, but if it keeps levers from getting tripped open when pushed in box its good.
Very good visuals & tips. Thank you.
The one benefit I see to putting the line wire in the center slot of the wago is to establish a convention so you will always know which wires are the load versus the line with future work. Not that you should rely on this and only works with a 3 or 5 slotted wagos.
It doesn’t matter if the feed wire is in the middle. What matters is that the connector is rated for the correct current.
Great content as always Adam. Do you know of any overcurrent concerns with daisy-chaining receptacles?
Also, what are your thoughts on ground plug up vs down?
Thank you very much. I have heard of some overcurrent concerns from Daisy chaining, even if it’s not the receptacle that is being plugged into but one earlier in the line. I don’t think it happens very often but like everything else, a possibility. My thoughts on the ground plug are unless you are in a hospital setting, my ground goes down. I understand the thinking of if something falls on it that it could cause a short with the plug slightly pulled out but most items you plug in usually don’t have a ground anyways such as lamps, tvs, etc. So that wouldn’t really help. Also many plugs/cords such as for appliances, heavier items, surge protectors, etc. come with the lower profile plugs that are clearly designed to go down towards the ground. If the ground was up then it would cause strain on them because the cord would then be going up initially which could cause some issues over time. So to me, I install all of mine ground down in residential applications. I hope that all makes sense, would be nice if I could post pictures. Maybe I should do a video in the future. 🤔
@@HowToHomeDIY Thanks for the video and your comments. I also prefer ground down except for that rare air conditioner with a flat plug and the ground up, probably intended for a simplex receptacle. The other place I've seen them is for outlets on a light switch. ✨️
@@HowToHomeDIY Why would it be different in either a hospital or commercial setting?
Hospitals have machines plugged in that are literally keeping people alive. With the ground up it’s much less likely to get unplugged if something were to fall on the plug is one of the big reasons.
There are exactly ZERO overcurrent concerns with daisy-chaining on properly installed receps/circuits. The terminal screws on a 15A recep are UL listed for 20A feed-through current, part of the reason why we can install 15A receps on a 20A circuit. If installed properly with the correct conductor and breaker size, overcurrent is a logical impossibility.
Hi, I need help "how to eliminate / remove the no-longer in-use 3 ways switch" after I installed a Single-Pole Motion Sensor Switch. Do you have a video how to on this topic? Please help. Best regards.
Daisy chaining is not an inferior method. Especially for DIYers, I’d trust that they can tighten a screw sufficiently before I’d trust them to make a good splice. One type of connection is engineered and designed by professionals, the other is hand made by an amateur. The whole premise that pigtailing is always better is a myth, unsupported by any actual evidence.
Wago's make everyone a Professional. To hell with Wire Nuts.
There is no 'amature' when it comes to closing a wago flap.
I just rewired a whole doublewide with 12/2 and not a SINGLE wire nut... all 3 port wago's and I'll stand my work up next to yours any day lol... and I've never wired a single plug IN MY LIFE before this project.
And everything is Pig Tailed. All parallel wired.
@@suburbangardenpermaculture3117 It takes a bit more than making a splice with a Wago to be a professional. FYI, both daisy chaining and pigtailing are parallel wiring,
@@pld8993agos and wire nuts where created by engineers and professional too. They're just as easy to use as screw terminals too. Either way you should know whites and blacks and copper are all connected to their corresponding colors. If you can't figure out how to use a wago connector or a wire nut than you probably shouldn't even be messing with your electric system at all. Pigtailing may not be any better than daisy chaining but that doesn't mean it's any worse either.
@@Zoroaster4 When done properly, daisy chaining and pigtailing are equal in integrity and function. Pigtailing is not better electrically, contrary to what many believe.
And sometimes you have to daisy chain, like when you're installing a GFCI at the top of the circuit. You want everything downstream to be protected, otherwise you're only protecting that specific outlet if it's pigtailed. Downstream of that then yeah, do what you fancy.
of all the UK electricia videos using wagos I've watched none of them have mentioned putting the feed conductor in the center. Theoretically the internal busbar should be able to handle it either way.
I can see the advantage to using the center for the feed wire. It is out of the way of the wires for recepticles.
JOb well done!! I really like AND learn a lot from your videos. I have a quick question. I have a toilet room (for lack of a better term) in my Master bathroom. It has a combined 2- toggle light switch for the ceiling light and fan. Below that is a 20 amp blank face self-test GFCI receptacle. It does not control the before mentioned light switches. There is a Jacuzzi on the other side of the toilet room wall. MY question: I would like to add a GFCI plug receptacle to the other end of the room (8 ft) for a Bidet fixture I am adding. As the wall from the GFCI and light switches is wall-papered I would like to find an easier way to run the wiring around to the toilet. It seems an easier way would be to run wiring from the fan/light above the toilet and fish the wire down the wall to the toilet. Can I use a pigtailed line wire from the light or fan to the new outlet? This wire is 14 gauge from a 15 amp circuit Or from the light/fan switched in the distant wall up and over to the toilet? The GFCI blank-face receptacle is 20 amp so I assume it is 12 gauge wire? Would I need to run 12 gauge to the new GFCI receptacle or use 14 gauge from the light switch and can you buy/use a14 gauge GFCI receptacle? I sure hope I haven't made this more confusing than need be?!! Many thanks for your or anyone's help!!..ken
Great video. Did you make a video a while ago dealing with the Reliance ProTran 6 circuit gen transfer box and doubling up breakers with LED lights to extend the use of this transfer switch.
That was not me. Although that is a nice transfer switch.
In 2 gang and larger boxes, it has been my experience that it reduces clutter from a large mass of wires being shoved into the box. Also makes removing or replacing a single outlet a bit easier.
Try the ideal orange-blue wire nuts. They have become my favorite wire nuts. They go down to a single 20 awg wire up to four 12 awg wires. They are smaller than the standard tan wire nut making them fit in tight boxes better. They have saved me so much fighting to push wires in boxes and takes care of 2 wire nut sizes better than the original 2 sizes.
Its a German brand so the name is pronouced Va-Go. Another advantage to them is they have a safe port for testing kit to be used without taking them apart.
Hi have watching your videos, and love them. I have subscribed to your channel and will continue to learn. Have a question for you. Had a switch ( one of two ) go bad in my bathroom. The switches control the fan & light. When I opened the box ( metal ) all three ground wires were twisted together and crimped, and all three white wires were twisted and capped. Can I just pigtail the power wire and be good to go? When I pulled the switches out a little wire fell out, and hooks on both ends. I would rather do the pigtail then try and figure out how they had those switches connected together with that wire. Sorry this is so long. Thanks. t. 🇺🇸✌
I’m just a DIYer with 50 yrs of self taught and I totally agree with the Master.
You have a good amount of experience! Thanks a lot for the feedback Mike!
There is no advantage in putting the feed wire in the center port of the wago. The construction of the wago insures that there is the same potential in all the ports once it’s energized. There doesn’t need to be a “balance point” or equidistant path for the power, electrons just don’t care. It won’t change the current, or speed of the devices connected to it in any way.
What a rediculous argument 😄,it's a one piece lug internally,as you say doesnt matter.
@@jwick4320 I know, right?!!
I have a home with mixed copper and aluminum wiring (built in 1970). Do you know if they have WAGO's suited for aluminum wiring or should I continue using the aluminum marrettes?
Your videos are very informative.
Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
RE: 8:44 : I'm not an electrician, but I do have experience with Electrical engineering. From my knowledge, technically yes, current will flow more evenly from center out, but in reality, for these voltage levels and currents, it is highly negligible in home applications. All conductive elements will carry some resistance and should really be paid attention to on the signal use and length. In the case of these Wago connectors for home power connections it's negligible, other than cleanliness of the wiring. If for some reason it is going to be used for data signals then it should really be paid attention to (but in reality data signals will be using different cables and connectors that has already been tested, verified and follows some industry standard.)
Utterly nothing wrong with daisy chaining outlets, via the screw or clamp connections. It is a screw-to-screw buss. There is nothing to fail.
Wagos, on the other hand, is asking for trouble. (much like that of stab in connections on back of some receptacles)
Welllllll the connecting metal plate between the buss screws can fail and that’s often when a circuit has a fair amount of current running through a line to downstream outlets. That’s why pigtails or wagos are better in my opinion. That connecting plate can get quite hot and crack breaking the connector causing the feeds to arc and that’s when you have a fire and or the outlet melts.
@@chrisloesch1870 And the tiny piece of metal in a Wago, with an even tinier contact surface between the periphery of the conductor, and the flat edge of the Wago contact? There's no way your convincing me that the contact surface area of a Wago is higher than screw terminals.
@@ElementofKindness I’m not talking about push connectors that look like wagos. And I agree with you there. However there is a difference between true Wagos which have a much wider connection plate, but I would still pigtail if I knew there was likely a lot of current likely to flow through the circuit.
Is it ok to daisy chain by putting 2 12 wires behind one screw. I'm talking about the wires coming in from the back and going under just one of the screws under the square washer. This would be on a commercial Leviton outlet. Why use both screws when one will do?
LOL. I was wiring an addition I built in Sacramento about 20 years ago and had to have an electrical inspection on my wiring job. The inspector came in, found everything had been pigtailed and proceeded to write me a correction notice. I told him it was the best method and he went to check with his supervisor. When he came back the next day, his tune had changed.
When I've wired a house, it's always been pigtailed and I NEVER install less than a 20a circuit...
I used to prefer daisy chaining. But since the invention of wago lever terminals, it's just easier to pigtail.
I don't think I have ever worked on a house that wasn't daisy chained. it's easy enough to find where the chain is broken if there is an issue. The only concern I have is when the hardware is wired through the stab locks. Don't do it,
I want a 220v 30A line for an air compressor, and considering using armored cable in the wall. Additionally, I wanted an 4-wire outlet in two separate rooms on opposite sides of the wall about 5 feet apart, although I have no plans to use them simultaneously. Is that a code problem, if they were on the same circuit? (I also thought of using some kind of switch, so that only one outlet can be used at a time, if it's required).
My guess is that putting the feed wire in the middle of the Wago might make a 0.0001 ohm difference, but the advantage is that, upon inspection, it shows that the installer cares about details and that gives everyone a comfortable feeling! I'd go with it!
The big advantage for DIYers to use pigtails is that pushing the device back into the box is easier with fewer wires attached.
The big disadvantage is that you're asking an amateur to make a spice that if not done properly could cause a problem, even a fire. I'd trust an amateur to tighten a precisely engineered and manufactured screw before I'd trust them to make a splice.
Yes. This precisely. Especially with 12 gauge wires. You can lay your feed wires and wire nuts at convenient places inside the box, and have the pigtails fold neatly without excessive strain on the wires as you install the device.
@@pld8993 No matter what there's a chance to mess it up. Ever pull an outlet to find two wires wrapped around the same screw? One around the screw and the other back wired at the same screw? I'd say pigtails with Wagos is probably the best and somewhat foolproof method but even then a Wago can pop back open if the wire isn't stripped back far enough.
It's a good concept in theory. But in my experience the number of times I've had a problem with an outlet passing power through is never. Every connection in there will be screw clamped or back wire clamped. Number of times I've had to find and fix loose wire nut connections is a lot. The last time was a wire that didn't get twisted in properly and when the temperature started fluctuating day to night it worked itself just loose enough to have partial voltage. If you do it the pigtail way I would definitely pre-twist wire nuts so you know the wires are properly tightly connected or use something with a positive lock. I think it is definitely easier to manage the wires in the box especially if you are using thicker wire but you have to be sure those connections are all good because in an entire system you are introducing many more failure points.
Exactly. The number of times a properly installed recep/connections fails is very close to never. Unnecessarily adding a pigtail adds a potential point of failure.
So to continue on down the line, you simply add another conductor to the bundle? 4 conductors if you're working with a quad box or 3 conductors if you're simply extending a duplex?
I would really like to hear what you think about a pdl 692 switched 2 gang outlet commonly used in New Zealand
The more connections you make the more chance of having problems and fires.
Not an electrician (mechanical engineer and computer geek) so this is just my take on it... I would put the supply wire in the middle as you show. My reasoning would be to minimize the "cross" load on the Wago. If the supply wire comes in on an end, then all the current to both loads is going through the metal conductor between the supply wire and the middle connector. By putting the supply wire in the middle, even when drawing a significant load through both pigtails you split the current going each way. It should (in theory) result in less heating.
If your wago is heating up, you have undersized your wiring and oversized your circuit breaker
@@robertzane5334 You're both right. Putting the supply wire in the middle does mean you're using different metal bits for each load, which in theory reduces the heat and resistance if both are being used at the same time. However, the impact should be extremely minimal, so it's really irrelevant. I suspect the limiting factor is the amount of contact between the supply wire and the Wago connector metal strip, which isn't impacted by location.
So in a practical sense, it doesn't matter, but it's not a bad idea to have a consistent habit.
Ridiculous thinking. You’re definitely not a very good Mechanical engineer.
If you have an even number of wires this method doesn't quite fit so neatly or symmetrically. Look at your electrical panel, power comes in at one end, neutral/gnd bus bar connection is at one end.
I did this also when completely rewriting my garage. Although the effect is minimal, I always put the incoming wire on the wago logo, which is always in the center (except the double wago.) That way I can always know where the power is coming from.
I think wago clips are easier to use on occasional jobs. They are more expensive than wire nuts, but it you only need a few each time you wire an outlet or light switch the difference in cost is negligible.
+1 .. This guy is the bomb! Subscribed .... Yes, always pigtail & pre-twist wire-nut electrical connections.....
Honestly, I would rather have the "down the line" daisy chained stuff go down if there's a problem. It makes the issue much more likely to be caught, easier to diagnose, etc. Unless it's mission critical stuff like life support, daisy chain it. You can swap an outlet in 5 minutes and outlets typically don't just "go down". They last 50+ years, easy. Pigtails would make a lot more sense with lights than outlets, IMO, because lights will burn out whereas outlets pretty much last forever. Like if you have 8 can lights and the first one burns out, you don't want a pitch black room while you wait for a fix.
I like daisy chaining because your not stuffing the box full of wires and it leaves plenty of feed wire for future repairs and projects. I agree it's easy to diagnose quickly with an audible tester. Oh and I love the ground wire nuts with the hole in the top lol.
I always use wire nuts and pre twist my wire clockwise because I can pull on that connection as hard as I can and the wires won't pull out. Can't say the same for those push connectors.
Completely disagree. This seems to be a residential electrician idea and as a commercial electrician we are trying to maintain service, it is not smart/practical to have an entire line of receptacles go down because 1 failed. It just seems hackish to me. I fully believe in pigtail’ing. Your a lazy hack of an electrician if you daisy chain your receptacles to me. You probably backstab too.
@@Robmancan1987 professional electricians don’t use wagos. They’re expensive. Fixtures will a lot of times come with them preinstalled in the housing box. I was always taught to use my linesman to twist the solids together, then clean the end by clipping it and then putting my wire nut on.
@@AdamS-lh2ug I WAS referring to residential, as I stated, not commercial, and I furthermore acknowledged that in a commercial/critical setting, that not daisy chaining would be better. Did you even read my comment? Did you fully understand it? Doesn't seem like it.
It seems like you want to apply my residential thoughts to commercial ones, even after I said that the commercial ones would be different. You give off the smug, air of superiority that a lot of people criticize electricians for having. Maybe try being less of a douchebag?
P.S. I have NEVER in my life backstabbed and I hate backstabs. Shepherds hooks 100% (or clamps).
@@Robmancan1987 Yeah that's a good point about the box, too. Extra space is nice