The reason you want it to run on 220/240vac is that you can use a smaller gauge wire to bring power to the pump motor. The cost of running the pump on 120vac vs 220/240vac is no different. The electric meter reads watt-hours. 120 x 16 is the same as 240 x 8 (for example).
I also have a well pump. I have about 4 meter deep and about 2 meters wide well and it is in the corner of my garden. It is so covered with trees,bushes and flowering summer plants that I never even see it. So, to about 2005 I had a manual way of bringing the water for watering, but I was sick of that continious up and down with the bucket on the cord, so I told my mum (at that age I was only 15 yo) that I will install a water pump, but she laught at me, and she said no way are you doing that. So, she went on vacation for a week and I left alone with my grandmother, and she told me that I can do whatever I want, so I went ahead and broke up my money safe and took with me all my personal savings to the local home improvement store and I bought self-priming plastic impeller 220v 1500w weather resistant portable water pump. So, the well was on the farthest corner of the garden, but the outside work shed was next to the house, about 50 meters away from the well. So I started by digging by hand 0.5 meter trench for running a supply pipe (1/2 inch) from the well to the shed with polipropelline pipes, that I welded together by meting the ends and sticking them together with couplings for forever lasting bond. When I reached the well I made a hole in concrete ring (the well ring that sits underground for maintaining the well's construction) and I lowered the pipe to about 10 inches from the bottom of the well underwater. On the end I put in oneway checkwalve and about 3 inches above the water, right at the L I put in a Tee with a ball valve, for draining the underground line for the winter. I then filled up the trench and I started working on a pump itself. First, I made a little desk on witch the pump would sit on inside the shed, and I ran supply and out pipes trough the wall. I firstly hooked up a ball valve on a supply and then a filter (that big filter, on witch you use a yarn cartrige and you need a key to open and close) and then I hooked it up to the pump. The supply was done. Then, for the discharge pipe I put in also a ball valve and a tee with the ball valve for priming and letting air in for draining the line underground. I then hooked up another tee to the discharge and I used an upside down old gas tank, hooked on the wall to act like a pressure tank, because the premade ones with rubber diafragm were pretty expensive, and I shall say that it works quiet well. Then I put in a pressure switch and the inside plumbing is done. Now I move to outside. On the roof of the shed I secured a massive black painted radiator, so in the summer the water would get heated by the sun and I would have hot water on the outside sink. I hooked up an old ceramic sink on the shed's wall and I ran hot and cold supplies for the sink. I use the sink for gardening, washing hands after work, etc. Then I ran the pipe underground to the sill faucet for the watering hose, I hooked up the sprinkler system (the manual one with just a valve that I manually close and open, depending on temperature, because the automatic one is far too expensive) and I ran the pipe to the green house, to the old cast iron bathtub that my mum fills up, it warms the water for the greenhouse and she uses watering can for watering the greenhouse with warm water. When everything was done I primed the pump and switched it on. it hummed for about 3 mins and then a sudden change of sound and after few minutes the pressure switch switched off the pump. I checked the radiator, it was filled, I just open the it to let the air out, so it would be filled 100%, I checked the hose, it was fine, and the sink - it was also fine, the water was clean, heated up and under pressure, just like inside. from the start I was a bit scared that the pump could not pull water trough 50 meters of horizontal pipe, but it pulled, and is pumping with no problem. I was really happy that I don't have to pull the water with bucket on the rope anymore. My mum was mad on me, because I done it all by myself and I didn't ask her permission, but then she was really amassed and really happy too. All I can say is that it is hard and expensive project, but it was worth every second and every penny I spent on it. (in total 230 euros) It still works to this day and I had to change the filter only twice trough out it's working time.
+Vytautas Poška Thats a Great Story. My Pump would Not Start this year. The sprinkler guy changed the Capacitor and said that the pump was Broken. I double checked with a Multimeter and saw that the pump was only getting 120V and not the other 120V Leg for 240V Total. It was due to a loose outdoor fuse. So Always Double Check. This Pump is very reliable and i am told usually lasts between 12 and 15 Years. Just keep it covered in thhe winter.
I have a pump that was installed about 2 years ago and it worked about 10 times and seemed to stop working. I figured out that the main power wire which was undergound looks like it burnt out and actually broke, So I decided to replace the wiring and used some romex and ran it thru pvc from the pump to the breaker in the house. It ran for about 5 secs and seemed to keep tripping the breaker. The run is pretty far, It is from the breaker to the pump about 120ft.I have 2- 110v breakers I dont know whats going on but I dont have the money to have techs to come out. Please let me know what I should check and what you think. Thanks soo much.
The pump may be bad and that burned up the wires. You can test the pump with a multimeter to see if it's a short. I know you can do this but I am not sure how. You can also run new wiring above ground and test it again. Maybe just buy a new pump anyway. Keep me updated and good luck.
What size pump do I need for a 6 zone irrigation system. My well is about 50 ft deep. I had a northern tool wel built 1hp with tank and it didn't give enough pressure to the heads? Ty
I don't know for sure. If i can find someone to ask, I will and will get back to you. This Pump pulls up from 35 feet below and it is 1 1/2 HP. Sounds like you need at least 2 HP, perhaps 3 HP to get the pressure that you need. Look at the - GT30 - Goulds Pumps IRRI-GATOR Self Priming Pump.
I know your question is over 2 years old, but ... If you run one zone at a time (most times run one zone at a time), your pump/motor size will be dependent upon how deep your well is (how much head the pump has to draw), not how many zones you are running. Add up the GPM (gallons per minute) on each zone for each sprinkler head. The zone with the highest GPM determines the needed pump capacity - add another 20%-30% so that you get better than a tickle from your heads. If your pump is rated to draw 75 ft of water at 0 gpm/gph, you need a bigger pump/motor combination if your water table is too deep to get the pressure you need.
Great video man. Question, I connected my pump to a pump start relay and fro There to a controller just how you have it. What I notice is that my pump stays running like on idle even though the controller does not have a station running. When I got a station the pump goes from idle to running I guess and it works fine but when the sprinklers stop the pump seems to keep running on idle or something. It does not actually shut off. Any ideas?
It's hard to say. I would start with a multimeter and check out the voltages on and off of each wire. There is no idle, just on and off. Could be a shorted wire feeding power to the pump. If you set it up as 240V then maybe one wire is shorted hot and feeding it so it sounds like a Buzz even when its not supposed to be on. Keep me updated.
Could this be wired for a normal 120 outlet? I have one and am planning to use as a sprinkler system drawing water from the lake I live on. I can wire it to a box but I don't want to as it's a switched box for my pole lights. I'd rather have the ability to just plug my pump in to my heavy duty extension cord and plug in when needed.
This Can be Wired as a 120V or as 240V, so Yes you can! I generally prefer to use 240V whenever possible. I believe that the pump operates more efficiently and will last longer.
+silverbankruptcy couldn't agree more. However my pump is most likely 20+ years old anyway so I'm not really wanting to run a new 240 outlet lol. Thanks for the information. My spigot is damaged and unusable so I'm creating a sprinkler system for my small lawn.
I have a well pump for irrigation use only. It was installed when I bought the house. I have been trying to prime it and get it going. It is a goulds but it is set up differently from any I have seen on RUclips as it has an expansion tank screwed to a pipe that sits above the pump. there is no faucet into which I can add water to prime it. however, the expansion tank will unscrew. I unscrewed the tank and poured water down the pipe until it filled up then screwed the tank back on, turned on the pump and opened a zone and no water came up. I can hear that the pump is working to pull water with no success. I let it run for 10 minutes then turned it off as I am concerned I will burn up the pump given no water is going thru it. Is 10 minutes not long enough for the pump to pull up water? and, am I correct that running the pump without water will burn it up? BTW: I can send you a picture of my setup as I have looked on line for a similar set up but have not found one. thank you
Get a huge bucket and a smaller container, like an Ice tea holder, and Keep pouring water down to prime it, keep pouring as you see its needed and it should prime, may take 10-15 min if its a 30 foot well. will not burn out, especially if you keep adding water. Ignore the water shooting out until it sounds like its pulling up water from below ground. You need a lot of water to do this. Be sure to winterize and drain the bolts all around top and bottom and then pour in RV antifreeze.
Thank you for your response. please clarify, do I turn the well motor on while I am pouring water into it, and should a zone be opened at the same time? thank you
Yes Motor Running and keep pouring water in. NEVER let motor run without a zone on, or motor will burn out. My system does not allow that possibility as motor turns on only when a zone goes on. Even the hose connection only turns on with a zone, otherwise if hose closed, it could burn out. Water Must always be allowed to flow.
Where would I find the switch for the well, my house have a well but there no water coming out of the well the pump came on and pumping the regular water for the sprinkler,but when I switched the water to well no water coming thought the line, but my naghubiour across the street getting water for her sprinkler,y not me, help me please
Pressure switch is mostly for jet pumps, this is a centrifugal GT15 Goulds which is not made to work with a pressure switch although some people still adapt them and have other issues.
Jack Ostrander can you not install a GT15 or similar pump with a pressure switch and expansion tank? Also what are the other issues you were mentioning?
have a Flotech 1 1/2HP pump and it was running fine until yesterday I guess a wire had frayed and when I turned the pump on it blew,,I put new wire on pump and now the pump won't come back on it started to when I flipped the breaker I heard it running and then it just stopped now I turn the switch on and I get nothing,,,what happened what do I need to check thank you
Try to wire the pump through a different electrical source, to rule out a bad fuse switch in the fusebox. It could be that the pump was dying and overheating and thats what blew the fuse. Very possible that pump motor is bad.
Planning to do the same setup. How many stations do you have ? Because if turn one station on does the one station 24 v to contact then to 24 to the other value ??
You can't design this from scratch, i mean you can make a computer from transistors, but why not just buy the digital programmable controllers in the video?
Only One zone can go on at a time generally. If zones are small, you may be able to combine them. Mine are individual zones with each about 6-10 heads each zone
It's a great video... I am planning to do the same. Is it $2500 with the well and the pump? How much did it cost you for the well? How much is for the pump and installation (not including the sprinkler system)? Thank You !
I just wanted a Sprinkler system, He quoted me $2,500 for front and back with four total zones. He then says get a well for another $2,500. I said I don't know what a well is and so I don't want it. He calls back and says that I Must have a well since I will make the money back in water savings and that he would only charge an additional $2,000 for the well. I say Ok and I am saving roughly $150 a month in water charges.
The Guy Knew my area. He said that he started to hit water at 25 feet and he went down to 35 Feet to get good water. It varies a lot, as I know a few blocks away, the ground level drops by 20 feet and people do not have basements. Hire a guy who has experience in your area, as he has the knowledge to judge what is involved. To Drill, he just used an air compressor that pushes the dirt out of the way of the pipe, which just drops downward.
+Emiona Kreste You Need someone first open the valve to drop the water back down the 35 feet so it does Not Freeze in the pipe. Then you need someone with an air pump to Blow out each Zone. Then you need to fill the pump with Anti-Seize liquid. Best to have a Pro do it.
I live in Florida where it rain everyday for the past 4 months, so I turn my sprinkler off for the entire 4 months. Today I have sprinkler guy come over to repair a few sprinkler heads. when he come he was going to test entire system but after he tested the first zone my well water pump stop working. The water don't come out at all. He told me I should leave it on all year long even when it is in raining season. Is it true that I should live it on all year long? How do I find out if my pump really broken like he said? or he did something to it to make it stop working? He said to replace a new pump will cost $1,400(USD) because it is two men job. Anyone know what is the reasonable price to replace a pump? Please help.
Do Not Replace Pump Yet! First Change the Capacitor in the Pump, Accessible by removing two screws in the Back of the Pump to remove the cover, that is often the problem. Also Use a Multimeter to Make sure its getting proper Voltage. My Guy wanted to replace my Pump for $700, Turns out the Fuse in the outdoor Fusebox was loose. Double check everything. This pump is on Amazon, I think for $300, installation by a plumber should be just a few hundred more. Good Luck!
Thanks! It help a lot. It turn out I don't have to replace my well pump. I don't know what happen when that guy came but I try to turn it on the next day. It works again.
Thats a great question. The problem is that the Hose cannot be run without at least one sprinkler zone running, this is a pump protection issue, as otherwise if pump turns on and hose is shut off and no where for water to go, pump will burn out. So I can't tell. However Amazon Says that Maximum water flow is: 64 gallons per minute.
I have a problem with my water pump too, I have a Rain Bird control panel and I tried it for the Spring/Summer Season and when I click water now the whole panel goes blank, blinks then comes back on, but my pump will now run. What are some test or something like that to figure out what is going on
it's Not for drinking. It contains runoff water with fertilizer and pesticides. you could filter it with a good filter for drinking but it's not worth it as my bill is only forty dollars a month for tested municipal water. Also pump would freeze in the winter unless it was installed indoors. Main idea is that I save over a hundred dollars a month in water and I can waste it with a garden hose as I wish. it basically is a form of recycling water.
You haven't a clue what you're talking about as far as electricity and what you state about an appliance running cooler at 240 and that Europe is better - actually we are 240 volt 60 Hz is the most efficient - 50Hz is not as efficient it's also more costly - the transformers cost more to make because of the size of the transformer and the added windings - Watts are watts no matter if it's supplied via 220 or 110 - 220 can just supply more amps that's the only difference - as far as that pump getting hot maybe you should consider the fact that you are pumping up water in a 1 1/2" pipe and constricting it down to 3/4" you sure are making that pump work hard - you should have supplied the entire system with 1 1/2" PVC and reduced it from the trunk lines to the sprinkler heads - had you done that you may have been able to reduce the amount of zones
Actually the motor would be running with no effort being sized down to 3/4 inch outlet, if the well produced enough water, the amps would go down. If you had 1.5 outlet and could flow that much water, say 50gpm it would put more demand on it and amps go up. I install cycle/stop valves just for this reason on certain applications. As for heat have you ever touched a pool pump motor running 8 hours in direct sunlight, very HOT.
The inspectapedia page explains what you are saying. It says that 240V motors are slightly easier to start and last Slightly longer. That page says: In sum, the electric bill is about the same, but at 240V the pump has a little easier time starting, it may thus have a little longer life, and the wiring might be less costly. The improvements in efficiency of use of electrical power is slightly better at higher voltages (less energy loss) but running a water pump will not be noticeably more or less costly between the two options.
The reason you want it to run on 220/240vac is that you can use a smaller gauge wire to bring power to the pump motor. The cost of running the pump on 120vac vs 220/240vac is no different. The electric meter reads watt-hours. 120 x 16 is the same as 240 x 8 (for example).
I also have a well pump. I have about 4 meter deep and about 2 meters wide well and it is in the corner of my garden. It is so covered with trees,bushes and flowering summer plants that I never even see it. So, to about 2005 I had a manual way of bringing the water for watering, but I was sick of that continious up and down with the bucket on the cord, so I told my mum (at that age I was only 15 yo) that I will install a water pump, but she laught at me, and she said no way are you doing that. So, she went on vacation for a week and I left alone with my grandmother, and she told me that I can do whatever I want, so I went ahead and broke up my money safe and took with me all my personal savings to the local home improvement store and I bought self-priming plastic impeller 220v 1500w weather resistant portable water pump. So, the well was on the farthest corner of the garden, but the outside work shed was next to the house, about 50 meters away from the well. So I started by digging by hand 0.5 meter trench for running a supply pipe (1/2 inch) from the well to the shed with polipropelline pipes, that I welded together by meting the ends and sticking them together with couplings for forever lasting bond. When I reached the well I made a hole in concrete ring (the well ring that sits underground for maintaining the well's construction) and I lowered the pipe to about 10 inches from the bottom of the well underwater. On the end I put in oneway checkwalve and about 3 inches above the water, right at the L I put in a Tee with a ball valve, for draining the underground line for the winter. I then filled up the trench and I started working on a pump itself. First, I made a little desk on witch the pump would sit on inside the shed, and I ran supply and out pipes trough the wall. I firstly hooked up a ball valve on a supply and then a filter (that big filter, on witch you use a yarn cartrige and you need a key to open and close) and then I hooked it up to the pump. The supply was done. Then, for the discharge pipe I put in also a ball valve and a tee with the ball valve for priming and letting air in for draining the line underground. I then hooked up another tee to the discharge and I used an upside down old gas tank, hooked on the wall to act like a pressure tank, because the premade ones with rubber diafragm were pretty expensive, and I shall say that it works quiet well. Then I put in a pressure switch and the inside plumbing is done. Now I move to outside. On the roof of the shed I secured a massive black painted radiator, so in the summer the water would get heated by the sun and I would have hot water on the outside sink. I hooked up an old ceramic sink on the shed's wall and I ran hot and cold supplies for the sink. I use the sink for gardening, washing hands after work, etc. Then I ran the pipe underground to the sill faucet for the watering hose, I hooked up the sprinkler system (the manual one with just a valve that I manually close and open, depending on temperature, because the automatic one is far too expensive) and I ran the pipe to the green house, to the old cast iron bathtub that my mum fills up, it warms the water for the greenhouse and she uses watering can for watering the greenhouse with warm water. When everything was done I primed the pump and switched it on. it hummed for about 3 mins and then a sudden change of sound and after few minutes the pressure switch switched off the pump. I checked the radiator, it was filled, I just open the it to let the air out, so it would be filled 100%, I checked the hose, it was fine, and the sink - it was also fine, the water was clean, heated up and under pressure, just like inside. from the start I was a bit scared that the pump could not pull water trough 50 meters of horizontal pipe, but it pulled, and is pumping with no problem. I was really happy that I don't have to pull the water with bucket on the rope anymore. My mum was mad on me, because I done it all by myself and I didn't ask her permission, but then she was really amassed and really happy too. All I can say is that it is hard and expensive project, but it was worth every second and every penny I spent on it. (in total 230 euros) It still works to this day and I had to change the filter only twice trough out it's working time.
+Vytautas Poška Thats a Great Story. My Pump would Not Start this year. The sprinkler guy changed the Capacitor and said that the pump was Broken. I double checked with a Multimeter and saw that the pump was only getting 120V and not the other 120V Leg for 240V Total. It was due to a loose outdoor fuse. So Always Double Check. This Pump is very reliable and i am told usually lasts between 12 and 15 Years. Just keep it covered in thhe winter.
Thanks for the advice :)
I have a pump that was installed about 2 years ago and it worked about 10 times and seemed to stop working. I figured out that the main power wire which was undergound looks like it burnt out and actually broke, So I decided to replace the wiring and used some romex and ran it thru pvc from the pump to the breaker in the house. It ran for about 5 secs and seemed to keep tripping the breaker. The run is pretty far, It is from the breaker to the pump about 120ft.I have 2- 110v breakers I dont know whats going on but I dont have the money to have techs to come out. Please let me know what I should check and what you think. Thanks soo much.
The pump may be bad and that burned up the wires. You can test the pump with a multimeter to see if it's a short. I know you can do this but I am not sure how. You can also run new wiring above ground and test it again. Maybe just buy a new pump anyway. Keep me updated and good luck.
What size pump do I need for a 6 zone irrigation system. My well is about 50 ft deep. I had a northern tool wel built 1hp with tank and it didn't give enough pressure to the heads? Ty
I don't know for sure. If i can find someone to ask, I will and will get back to you. This Pump pulls up from 35 feet below and it is 1 1/2 HP. Sounds like you need at least 2 HP, perhaps 3 HP to get the pressure that you need.
Look at the - GT30 - Goulds Pumps IRRI-GATOR Self Priming Pump.
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I know your question is over 2 years old, but ...
If you run one zone at a time (most times run one zone at a time), your pump/motor size will be dependent upon how deep your well is (how much head the pump has to draw), not how many zones you are running. Add up the GPM (gallons per minute) on each zone for each sprinkler head. The zone with the highest GPM determines the needed pump capacity - add another 20%-30% so that you get better than a tickle from your heads. If your pump is rated to draw 75 ft of water at 0 gpm/gph, you need a bigger pump/motor combination if your water table is too deep to get the pressure you need.
Great video man. Question, I connected my pump to a pump start relay and fro
There to a controller just how you have it. What I notice is that my pump stays running like on idle even though the controller does not have a station running. When I got a station the pump goes from idle to running I guess and it works fine but when the sprinklers stop the pump seems to keep running on idle or something. It does not actually shut off. Any ideas?
It's hard to say. I would start with a multimeter and check out the voltages on and off of each wire.
There is no idle, just on and off. Could be a shorted wire feeding power to the pump.
If you set it up as 240V then maybe one wire is shorted hot and feeding it so it sounds like a Buzz even when its not supposed to be on. Keep me updated.
Is it double impeller type?
Could this be wired for a normal 120 outlet? I have one and am planning to use as a sprinkler system drawing water from the lake I live on. I can wire it to a box but I don't want to as it's a switched box for my pole lights. I'd rather have the ability to just plug my pump in to my heavy duty extension cord and plug in when needed.
This Can be Wired as a 120V or as 240V, so Yes you can!
I generally prefer to use 240V whenever possible. I believe that the pump operates more efficiently and will last longer.
+silverbankruptcy couldn't agree more. However my pump is most likely 20+ years old anyway so I'm not really wanting to run a new 240 outlet lol. Thanks for the information. My spigot is damaged and unusable so I'm creating a sprinkler system for my small lawn.
Makes Sense to me!
Good Luck.
I have a well pump for irrigation use only. It was installed when I bought the house. I have been trying to prime it and get it going. It is a goulds but it is set up differently from any I have seen on RUclips as it has an expansion tank screwed to a pipe that sits above the pump. there is no faucet into which I can add water to prime it. however, the expansion tank will unscrew. I unscrewed the tank and poured water down the pipe until it filled up then screwed the tank back on, turned on the pump and opened a zone and no water came up. I can hear that the pump is working to pull water with no success. I let it run for 10 minutes then turned it off as I am concerned I will burn up the pump given no water is going thru it. Is 10 minutes not long enough for the pump to pull up water? and, am I correct that running the pump without water will burn it up? BTW: I can send you a picture of my setup as I have looked on line for a similar set up but have not found one. thank you
Get a huge bucket and a smaller container, like an Ice tea holder, and Keep pouring water down to prime it, keep pouring as you see its needed and it should prime, may take 10-15 min if its a 30 foot well. will not burn out, especially if you keep adding water. Ignore the water shooting out until it sounds like its pulling up water from below ground. You need a lot of water to do this. Be sure to winterize and drain the bolts all around top and bottom and then pour in RV antifreeze.
Thank you for your response. please clarify, do I turn the well motor on while I am pouring water into it, and should a zone be opened at the same time? thank you
Yes Motor Running and keep pouring water in. NEVER let motor run without a zone on, or motor will burn out. My system does not allow that possibility as motor turns on only when a zone goes on. Even the hose connection only turns on with a zone, otherwise if hose closed, it could burn out. Water Must always be allowed to flow.
Can you put a pressure switch to shut off when you're not running the water?
for sure! Probably use a 240V contactor/relay as well.
@@silverbankruptcy thank you.
Where would I find the switch for the well, my house have a well but there no water coming out of the well the pump came on and pumping the regular water for the sprinkler,but when I switched the water to well no water coming thought the line, but my naghubiour across the street getting water for her sprinkler,y not me, help me please
Follow the lines to where the switch could be then try flipping a switch that could be the correct one.
Also, where is your pressure switch?
Sachi WI what is a Pressure switch needed for? water is not being stored in a container. Its being pumped onto the frass and is on all of the time.
Pressure switch is mostly for jet pumps, this is a centrifugal GT15 Goulds which is not made to work with a pressure switch although some people still adapt them and have other issues.
Jack Ostrander can you not install a GT15 or similar pump with a pressure switch and expansion tank? Also what are the other issues you were mentioning?
have a Flotech 1 1/2HP pump and it was running fine until yesterday I guess a wire had frayed and when I turned the pump on it blew,,I put new wire on pump and now the pump won't come back on it started to when I flipped the breaker I heard it running and then it just stopped now I turn the switch on and I get nothing,,,what happened what do I need to check thank you
Try to wire the pump through a different electrical source, to rule out a bad fuse switch in the fusebox. It could be that the pump was dying and overheating and thats what blew the fuse. Very possible that pump motor is bad.
Planning to do the same setup.
How many stations do you have ? Because if turn one station on does the one station 24 v to contact then to 24 to the other value ??
I have 4 zones. I think that each zone is individually energized with I guess 24V and that turns on that valve.
Ok so you used a 2 pole 20 amp 24v coil contact.
You have 4 24v ,How did you separate them at the contact ?? I’m trying to figure it out
Or do they turn on the same time ??
You can't design this from scratch, i mean you can make a computer from transistors, but why not just buy the digital programmable controllers in the video?
Only One zone can go on at a time generally. If zones are small, you may be able to combine them. Mine are individual zones with each about 6-10 heads each zone
It's a great video... I am planning to do the same.
Is it $2500 with the well and the pump?
How much did it cost you for the well?
How much is for the pump and installation (not including the sprinkler system)?
Thank You !
I just wanted a Sprinkler system, He quoted me $2,500 for front and back with four total zones. He then says get a well for another $2,500. I said I don't know what a well is and so I don't want it. He calls back and says that I Must have a well since I will make the money back in water savings and that he would only charge an additional $2,000 for the well. I say Ok and I am saving roughly $150 a month in water charges.
When I say the cost of the well, that Included, the well And the Pump and the Labor
I really appreciate the information. How deep is your well?
I know the depth varies by location to location.
The Guy Knew my area. He said that he started to hit water at 25 feet and he went down to 35 Feet to get good water. It varies a lot, as I know a few blocks away, the ground level drops by 20 feet and people do not have basements. Hire a guy who has experience in your area, as he has the knowledge to judge what is involved. To Drill, he just used an air compressor that pushes the dirt out of the way of the pipe, which just drops downward.
I got a quote today. 3000$ for 75 ft in ONtario, Canada. Thanks again.
how to winterize this sprinkler system? we have the same well with the sprinkler system and want to know how to winterize it,,, thanks
+Emiona Kreste
You Need someone first open the valve to drop the water back down the 35 feet so it does Not Freeze in the pipe.
Then you need someone with an air pump to Blow out each Zone.
Then you need to fill the pump with Anti-Seize liquid.
Best to have a Pro do it.
You must use a air compressor to blow out the lines to remove any water from your system over the winter so it does not freeze and crack
I live in Florida where it rain everyday for the past 4 months, so I turn my sprinkler off for the entire 4 months. Today I have sprinkler guy come over to repair a few sprinkler heads. when he come he was going to test entire system but after he tested the first zone my well water pump stop working. The water don't come out at all. He told me I should leave it on all year long even when it is in raining season. Is it true that I should live it on all year long? How do I find out if my pump really broken like he said? or he did something to it to make it stop working? He said to replace a new pump will cost $1,400(USD) because it is two men job. Anyone know what is the reasonable price to replace a pump? Please help.
Do Not Replace Pump Yet!
First Change the Capacitor in the Pump, Accessible by removing two screws in the Back of the Pump to remove the cover, that is often the problem. Also Use a Multimeter to Make sure its getting proper Voltage. My Guy wanted to replace my Pump for $700, Turns out the Fuse in the outdoor Fusebox was loose. Double check everything. This pump is on Amazon, I think for $300, installation by a plumber should be just a few hundred more.
Good Luck!
Thanks! It help a lot. It turn out I don't have to replace my well pump. I don't know what happen when that guy came but I try to turn it on the next day. It works again.
Its probably a loose electrical connection.
Glad to Hear!
Not sure why but since it is working now I am kind of afraid to touch it again.
Kawaii Kate I understand
next time an electrician comes to you turn it on and pull the wires and see if it shuts off, then he can fix it.
Great video. Have you ever test how many Gallon Per Minutes (GPM) it does?
Thanks
Thats a great question. The problem is that the Hose cannot be run without at least one sprinkler zone running, this is a pump protection issue, as otherwise if pump turns on and hose is shut off and no where for water to go, pump will burn out. So I can't tell. However Amazon Says that Maximum water flow is: 64 gallons per minute.
I have a problem with my water pump too, I have a Rain Bird control panel and I tried it for the Spring/Summer Season and when I click water now the whole panel goes blank, blinks then comes back on, but my pump will now run. What are some test or something like that to figure out what is going on
That's above my pay grade.
I this drinking water safe?
it's Not for drinking. It contains runoff water with fertilizer and pesticides. you could filter it with a good filter for drinking but it's not worth it as my bill is only forty dollars a month for tested municipal water. Also pump would freeze in the winter unless it was installed indoors. Main idea is that I save over a hundred dollars a month in water and I can waste it with a garden hose as I wish. it basically is a form of recycling water.
You haven't a clue what you're talking about as far as electricity and what you state about an appliance running cooler at 240 and that Europe is better - actually we are 240 volt 60 Hz is the most efficient - 50Hz is not as efficient it's also more costly - the transformers cost more to make because of the size of the transformer and the added windings - Watts are watts no matter if it's supplied via 220 or 110 - 220 can just supply more amps that's the only difference - as far as that pump getting hot maybe you should consider the fact that you are pumping up water in a 1 1/2" pipe and constricting it down to 3/4" you sure are making that pump work hard - you should have supplied the entire system with 1 1/2" PVC and reduced it from the trunk lines to the sprinkler heads - had you done that you may have been able to reduce the amount of zones
Actually the motor would be running with no effort being sized down to 3/4 inch outlet, if the well produced enough water, the amps would go down. If you had 1.5 outlet and could flow that much water, say 50gpm it would put more demand on it and amps go up. I install cycle/stop valves just for this reason on certain applications. As for heat have you ever touched a pool pump motor running 8 hours in direct sunlight, very HOT.
The inspectapedia page explains what you are saying. It says that 240V
motors are slightly easier to start and last Slightly longer. That page
says:
In sum, the electric bill is about the same, but at 240V the pump has a little
easier time starting, it may thus have a little longer life, and the wiring
might be less costly. The improvements in efficiency of use of electrical power is slightly better at higher voltages (less energy loss) but running a water pump will not be noticeably more or less costly between the two options.
Hit nail on head , he wanted 12 3 with ground for single phase...240.