Sorry about the sections of silence throughout this video. I chose to simply mute it rather than re-upload it after a shady copyright claim... Tip. Don't advertise your music as free to use for youtube creators if you intend to later copyright claim them for the ad revenue. That's called being an asshole.
The Warthog Project I live in Melbourne and been watching your project progress with amazement and respect. I’m an ex helicopter pilot and I know what I’m going to do when I get older! I think finding a warthog pilot holidaying here (post pandemic) wouldn’t be impossible. Would be incredible to watch.
I am so in awe of this project. I hope you will continue this channel with related content, even just gameplay or something. This channel is just too good to get buried in the youtube algorithm.
NICE! BTW. I've used JLCPCB once or twice for custom PCBs, their design tool does not need a Post grad degree to use and understand (lots of libraries and components you can plug in), they also have a SMT assembly service so once you design and order the PCB you can have them assemble the boards with SMT components. Your board then arrives complete. NB. No financial connection or interest, just a happy customer.
I'm absolutely sure they would even sponsor a video or two and provide pcbs free of charge. They sponsor my channel and are very chill about not requiring excessive amounts of advertising for them other than a link in the description and a quick mention at the beginning of the vid.
Thank you, interesting and enjoyable. It’s generous of you to take the time to make the videos. We all benefit from learning and sharing. I also extended the white lines with electrical tape that’s a good mod that anyone can do it makes a big difference to the look and functionality the parallax effect is a real pain otherwise. Regards, Mark
On your rocker switches ad a curved lip on the back so it blocks the light creep and still allows it to rock. Both the cockpit and the engineering massively cool though.
Good idea- but easier said than done. The laser software I have can only engrave at set heights, so it wont do a curve. I could hand sand them, or maybe 3D print the rear part or the button. Might look into that later!
Wow... I cannot believe the effort you put into this (ongoing) project. I would pay all the dollars for a setup like yours! Great video series, thanks for your time and effort. It's obvious that the Warthog is a plane near and dear to the hearts of many, many, many people. Great job!
Dude keep up the amazing work the only reason why bought a thrust-master joystick and throttle is because of u and started being a a-10 warthog in arma 3
Hi Ray, a great upgrade to your simpit. I really like the marker lines using white electrical tape. I might add that to mine. I've found that because the position of the MFCDs is not in straight line of sight, it's not always clear, when looking quickly, which button is for which function. The back lighting looked evenly spread so good job there. I did have a concern myself with the cost of tactiles with integral LEDs, but managed to source cheaper ones of Ali express in the end Nice one, thanks for sharing
Cheers Craig. I bought some of the cheapest tactiles with LEDs i could find- they ended up being an almost yellow colour and very dim so i stopped looking. Also- Im using one of your ideas from your last video as well. I'm planning to cut a new EMI surround and add the painted green/orange/red bezels to add some colour.
hi hi, wow, must say amazing.... would you mind showing the big screen thats at the back... how do you position locate the MFD displays exactly at the location where the hole is in the MFCD's. on this screen a@17:07. whats a build up display and whats from the screen at the back ?
You’ve done an awesome job. I’d love to have a set of 3 for my f18. I have the cougars but yours look better. I think your hobby is more along the lines of building flight simulators and not as much flying them. Keep up the great work man
Absolutely awesome, Thanks for sharing. Can you specifIcly show the wiring of the tactile switches, to include how they are ran from and to controller. Building AH64 TEDAC. Share wiring diagram, please ? Thanks!!
Wow nice work on those MFDs! They are considerably larger than Viper MFDs. With my aging eyes maybe I should have built an A-10. Lol. I’m curious how you measured out your buttons so that match up to the onscreen button as you indicated in the video?
Thanks mate! I was using F16 ones for ages, with the size difference now it is much clearer. For the spacing, I found some decent diagrams of it on the manufacturers website, so I based all the measurements on that. I just imported those images to coreldraw, set the scaling to the correct outer dimensions (the only ones I actually knew) then designed my panel over the top of it. Then I just hoped that ED had the viewport correct- Which of course they did!
Absolutely amazing work as always. Wish I could do half of what is needed to complete something like this. I would ask how much to build me one for the F-14 but I am pretty sure it would cost more than a real F-14. LOL
Its the cheapest Chinese K40 i could find on eBay at the time. Its been upgraded with a 60 watt tube and a DSP from www.lightobject.com. All up it ended up costing about a grand, and has been running for about five years with no failures yet.
Did you consider using the more expensive tactile switches with centre LED, just for the rocker switches, which should avoid light leak through for those type switches? Great job on these. Thanks for posting the update.
nice. why not put a hole in the bottom half to recess the LED? could also try 3D printing TPU, stopping the print half way, set in the button acrylic, and then continuing the print.
Did i understand your videos correctly that the gauges on the front panel is just a big regular monitor screen? And then using some kind of program to copy that area of the display in dcs show it on that perticular space?
Yes the entire front panel is a normal 27inch lcd monitor. The program used for the gauges is called 'Helios.' It takes the data from DCS and uses it to run separate guages, so they are not viewports and are completely separate from DCS. They can even be run over a network to a separate PC. And it's free!
hey RomeoKilo do you remember/know which specific switches you used for turning on/off the mfcds? i looked through the build log on the ED forums but didn't find any specifics. the how much did it cost videos glanced over it too i think. if you know, let me know!
@@thewarthogproject no worries! I've learned a ton from watching your videos and have stolen a lot of your ideas already. Now i'm just actively resisting the urge to buy a laser cutter and 3d printer i don't have room for! thanks for the info! keep up the great work!
You're a really crafty bloke! You should start a business selling this stuff at a premium! Damn I'm jealous of your cockpit, what an excellent job you've done!
It really is a lot easier to be able to CAD up the PCBs with proper edge routing, assembly, component placement, connectors and hole alignment. It really would be worth your time to learn!
Love the diy ingenuity. I've been following for awhile and it's turning out better than I imagined. What laser are you using? Looks like a Co2, but curious on the wattage.
This is absolutely insane! So proud you're a fellow Australian! If you were to do it all over again with what youve learned would you use Arduino or just go full Leo Bodnar ? Cheers mate. Also do you have a video showing your weathering process to get the scratched up aluminium look?
Thanks mate! Yep when I started DCS-BIOS wasn't around, and if I started today I would absolutely use Arduino alone. Having said that, the Leo cards are great and very simple and if people are scared off by Arduino coding they are still a good option. No video on weathering at all, but it's just very simple dry brushing. I'll throw it in an upcoming video.
@@thewarthogproject awesome mate cheers! I’ve been looking at using traffolyte for some custom panels but love you sandwich technique. Yeah I’m pretty good with the teensy microcontrollers, used them for my uni control thesis, they use the same arduino language, but have lots of extra useful libraries
Absolutely awesome, Thanks for sharing. Can you specifIcly show the wiring of the tactile switches, to include how they are ran from and to controller. Building AH64 TEDAC. Share wiring diagram, please ? Thanks!!
Yo man, love the project, im setting off on my own Home PittCock journey, but i know nothing about electronic lighting, i think i have everything down BUT ..... Backlighting!!! What a pain in the scrote backlighting is. Ive used a MOSFET breakout board to separate the 12v supply from the arduino board so i can trigger the backlight from Mobiflight. Im on 3x 3.3v white LEDs and a resistor per loop, arranged in parallel loops on a 12v circuit. But the circuit can change to a different power brick. I "calculated" the resistor value to require 100R resistors.. The result is amounts of light barely detectable to the human eye 😂 Any recommendations on troubleshooting a power discrepancy and selecting a power circuit or changing out the resistance? Kinda scared to slam a load more current through it tbh.
Mines got a 60watt tube. It cuts the board at 60% power at 12mm/s. It wont go through the metal on the boards, so i have to score the metal first and then just pop them out. Works well!
Honestly don't think I've ever been so envious of anything as I am of your amazing setup.. I don't know if you talk about it much in your videos because I'm just starting to watch them all but how you hook them up to those boards and get them to function is there a program or do you have to make a program how does that all work
Im trying to make my own MFDs and I ordered the wrong experimental PCB lol. Trying to figure out your soldering and wiring there, do you have any other detailed pics or diagrams?
@@paulaglet4255 stripboard up to now. I have a CNC engraver that could make engraved circuit boards, but having made a couple I'd rather fire up Kicad and pay JLCPCB a few quid and wait.
Love watching your videos, great project, as well as great video production quality. I have a question though, how many arduinos does it take to operate the pit, and is it hard to get them to interact? Never done any coding, but really really really want to make my own pit for the F14, I've found a stick and throttle for sale so that's a good start! Also ordered flight manuals off Amazon for it.
Hi. I was wondering what kind of rotary switch you used? I've tried searching ebay but haven't found anything other than rotary encoders that look like that. Can you tell me the model of the switch. Thank you.
The lack of BRRRRTTT in this video was noted. I have indeed broken my own rule of having BRRRRTTT in every single video. I promise the next video will make up for it by including excessive BRRRRTTT.
PCB design is really easy with a software such as KiCad (free) or Fritzing (dunno if still free). you can learn enough to meet all your needs in less than 1h. I get that prototype boards are easier to deal with for such simple circuits (and much less expensive too), but you shouldn't be afraid to try them out if and when you do more complex stuff. Also other question, why use the BBI-64? Currently working with a teensy LC, and with easy to implement matrix I can get more buttons (incl. analog inputs) than the BBI-64 for a fraction of the cost while still getting joystick emulation...
I used a BBI-64 only because ive used them before, and they are a proven and simple plug and play solution. A teensy/Arduino would require me to design and/or build a seperate matrix, then flash firmware on it to have it show up in windows as a HID device. With the Leo Bodnar- i just have to connect one wire to the card and its good to go. In my opionion they are worth the cost.
@@thewarthogproject Good point, thanks for the reply. I knew someone who did a 737 sim in his house and I also always wondered why he used older hardware he needed to code in assembly. But since you don't need extra coding, I can see the convenience is worth the price. Keep up the amazing work!
@@thewarthogproject ahhh ok. so you can just create new gauges or ddi's as you want as long as there is room... thats cool sell me the 2 old ones? im near sunnybank ??
Sorry about the sections of silence throughout this video. I chose to simply mute it rather than re-upload it after a shady copyright claim... Tip. Don't advertise your music as free to use for youtube creators if you intend to later copyright claim them for the ad revenue. That's called being an asshole.
dogs
What lazer cutter is that?
I think you should do an episode where an A-10 pilot comes in and tests out your sim pit. It looks amazing.
Would love to, but its hard to come across any A-10 pilots in Australia!
@@thewarthogproject If you build it, he will come....
The Warthog Project I live in Melbourne and been watching your project progress with amazement and respect. I’m an ex helicopter pilot and I know what I’m going to do when I get older!
I think finding a warthog pilot holidaying here (post pandemic) wouldn’t be impossible. Would be incredible to watch.
@@imaner76 Won't even have to invite him. His instinct will lead him
He won’t knock on the door when he finally arrives, there will just be a deafening BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRT!
I am so in awe of this project. I hope you will continue this channel with related content, even just gameplay or something. This channel is just too good to get buried in the youtube algorithm.
Me when I got the A-10: I want a setup like this.
Me a month later: oooooo f-14 I want a Whole RIO setup.
Me a week later: Oooooooo f-16 is on sale
yup
Awesome job!!! You can put felt around the rocker switches to eliminate the light bleed through.
Hey great idea!
NICE!
BTW. I've used JLCPCB once or twice for custom PCBs, their design tool does not need a Post grad degree to use and understand (lots of libraries and components you can plug in), they also have a SMT assembly service so once you design and order the PCB you can have them assemble the boards with SMT components. Your board then arrives complete.
NB. No financial connection or interest, just a happy customer.
I'm absolutely sure they would even sponsor a video or two and provide pcbs free of charge. They sponsor my channel and are very chill about not requiring excessive amounts of advertising for them other than a link in the description and a quick mention at the beginning of the vid.
Thank you, interesting and enjoyable. It’s generous of you to take the time to make the videos. We all benefit from learning and sharing. I also extended the white lines with electrical tape that’s a good mod that anyone can do it makes a big difference to the look and functionality the parallax effect is a real pain otherwise. Regards, Mark
On your rocker switches ad a curved lip on the back so it blocks the light creep and still allows it to rock. Both the cockpit and the engineering massively cool though.
Good idea- but easier said than done. The laser software I have can only engrave at set heights, so it wont do a curve. I could hand sand them, or maybe 3D print the rear part or the button. Might look into that later!
@@thewarthogproject How about adding a thin black felt or cloth skirt that is tacked onto the center of the switch but freely flexible on the edges?
Rubber!
Mate, you are actually a legend! Keep doing your stuff man, I'm thoroughly enjoying watching your project 👍
Amazing work Ray! I love the button solution of cutting and gluing using the C02 laser, never thought of that! Keep posting!
That laser cutter is magic.
So impressed with your abilities to design this cockpit.
@18:02 We do too! Amazing dedication to your passion. Well done!!!
Top notch craftsmanship,well done sir !!!
Amazing genius! I'm waiting for the next episode !
Love these vids,watching them made me purchase a cheap CNC engraver & am having a ball,thank's for the inspiration mate!
Next Episode: Making a real A-10C to prank my neighbors
Wow... I cannot believe the effort you put into this (ongoing) project. I would pay all the dollars for a setup like yours! Great video series, thanks for your time and effort. It's obvious that the Warthog is a plane near and dear to the hearts of many, many, many people. Great job!
Mate, what an incredible effort.
Awesome to see!
What an amazing project! Thank you for sharing this, I’ve got a lot of videos to go back and watch! Subscribed 100%
Dude keep up the amazing work the only reason why bought a thrust-master joystick and throttle is because of u and started being a a-10 warthog in arma 3
Hi Ray, a great upgrade to your simpit. I really like the marker lines using white electrical tape. I might add that to mine. I've found that because the position of the MFCDs is not in straight line of sight, it's not always clear, when looking quickly, which button is for which function.
The back lighting looked evenly spread so good job there. I did have a concern myself with the cost of tactiles with integral LEDs, but managed to source cheaper ones of Ali express in the end
Nice one, thanks for sharing
Cheers Craig. I bought some of the cheapest tactiles with LEDs i could find- they ended up being an almost yellow colour and very dim so i stopped looking. Also- Im using one of your ideas from your last video as well. I'm planning to cut a new EMI surround and add the painted green/orange/red bezels to add some colour.
New viewer - holy crap man... awesome design work.
You are a HERO!
Very nice design and manufacturing! Your rig is awesome!
" I think it looks pretty good" - Understatement of the year, right there, mate. I'd lay down money for these, wonderful work!
Impressive work mate! Love watching your videos. Have got a lot of inspiration from you. Keep up the awesome work on your sim!
Great job mate!
Awesome fab work bro! Great looking stuff and one hell of a setup!!
This is crazy good! you should be proud of your work! A+++
That is just amazing.
Very Nice!
hi hi, wow, must say amazing....
would you mind showing the big screen thats at the back...
how do you position locate the MFD displays exactly at the location where the hole is in the MFCD's.
on this screen a@17:07. whats a build up display and whats from the screen at the back ?
You’ve done an awesome job. I’d love to have a set of 3 for my f18. I have the cougars but yours look better. I think your hobby is more along the lines of building flight simulators and not as much flying them. Keep up the great work man
Holy s***! What a cool sim setup!
I'm just trying to think what aircraft I'd go to this effort for...
Amazing work, bravo :)
Absolutely awesome, Thanks for sharing. Can you specifIcly show the wiring of the tactile switches, to include how they are ran from and to controller. Building AH64 TEDAC. Share wiring diagram, please ? Thanks!!
Love watching your videos mate, very interesting and you present so well
Wow nice work on those MFDs! They are considerably larger than Viper MFDs. With my aging eyes maybe I should have built an A-10. Lol. I’m curious how you measured out your buttons so that match up to the onscreen button as you indicated in the video?
Thanks mate! I was using F16 ones for ages, with the size difference now it is much clearer. For the spacing, I found some decent diagrams of it on the manufacturers website, so I based all the measurements on that. I just imported those images to coreldraw, set the scaling to the correct outer dimensions (the only ones I actually knew) then designed my panel over the top of it. Then I just hoped that ED had the viewport correct- Which of course they did!
@@thewarthogproject wow that’s a testimony of both your work and DCS. Looks perfect in the video. Well done 👍
This is epic. Nice work
I Admire all the work you have done. Would you please do a video on your laser cutter?
Will do
Absolutely amazing work as always.
Wish I could do half of what is needed to complete something like this. I would ask how much to build me one for the F-14 but I am pretty sure it would cost more than a real F-14. LOL
Amazing job again. You really should stream your flights in multi camera now !
Mate im asking my wife if i can come and play at your place. You have all the cool toys. 🤪
amazing videos!!! please more of these construction videos. What Laser cutter do you use?
Its the cheapest Chinese K40 i could find on eBay at the time. Its been upgraded with a 60 watt tube and a DSP from www.lightobject.com. All up it ended up costing about a grand, and has been running for about five years with no failures yet.
Absolutely insane dude. Love it!
Did you consider using the more expensive tactile switches with centre LED, just for the rocker switches, which should avoid light leak through for those type switches?
Great job on these. Thanks for posting the update.
A little vertical lip around the underside of the switch should also help reduce the light bleed, and you could 3D print that for a few cents.
Nice... Very nice.
nice. why not put a hole in the bottom half to recess the LED? could also try 3D printing TPU, stopping the print half way, set in the button acrylic, and then continuing the print.
Did i understand your videos correctly that the gauges on the front panel is just a big regular monitor screen? And then using some kind of program to copy that area of the display in dcs show it on that perticular space?
Yes the entire front panel is a normal 27inch lcd monitor. The program used for the gauges is called 'Helios.' It takes the data from DCS and uses it to run separate guages, so they are not viewports and are completely separate from DCS. They can even be run over a network to a separate PC. And it's free!
Inspiring.
Excellent work!
Outstanding!
hey RomeoKilo do you remember/know which specific switches you used for turning on/off the mfcds? i looked through the build log on the ED forums but didn't find any specifics. the how much did it cost videos glanced over it too i think. if you know, let me know!
Sorry I do miss a few things in the videos every now and then! I used this one - au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/688-SRBV131803
@@thewarthogproject no worries! I've learned a ton from watching your videos and have stolen a lot of your ideas already. Now i'm just actively resisting the urge to buy a laser cutter and 3d printer i don't have room for! thanks for the info! keep up the great work!
You're a really crafty bloke! You should start a business selling this stuff at a premium! Damn I'm jealous of your cockpit, what an excellent job you've done!
finally a new upload :)
do you think you will sell these? I mean the kits so you just print/cut/label and then just send it out ..
Also Interested in buying a kit if possible
the level of perfectness .. any chance for the Hornet cockpit??
I want one.. but i just dont have the space for it in my house!
It really is a lot easier to be able to CAD up the PCBs with proper edge routing, assembly, component placement, connectors and hole alignment. It really would be worth your time to learn!
I’d probably have one big PCB built up for all the lights around the ring.
Amazing work as usual.
Love the diy ingenuity. I've been following for awhile and it's turning out better than I imagined.
What laser are you using? Looks like a Co2, but curious on the wattage.
Cheap Chinese K40, thats been upgraded with a 60 watt tube.
The Warthog Project
Do you recommend the 60w tube upgrade to the K40 for doing these acrylic panels? Or would the standard 40w tube do ok as well?
The only thing missing now is a phisical HUD
They make huds for cars, im positive with some creative tweaking and some reprogramming you could probably get it to work
This is absolutely insane! So proud you're a fellow Australian! If you were to do it all over again with what youve learned would you use Arduino or just go full Leo Bodnar ? Cheers mate. Also do you have a video showing your weathering process to get the scratched up aluminium look?
Thanks mate! Yep when I started DCS-BIOS wasn't around, and if I started today I would absolutely use Arduino alone. Having said that, the Leo cards are great and very simple and if people are scared off by Arduino coding they are still a good option. No video on weathering at all, but it's just very simple dry brushing. I'll throw it in an upcoming video.
@@thewarthogproject awesome mate cheers! I’ve been looking at using traffolyte for some custom panels but love you sandwich technique. Yeah I’m pretty good with the teensy microcontrollers, used them for my uni control thesis, they use the same arduino language, but have lots of extra useful libraries
Absolutely awesome, Thanks for sharing. Can you specifIcly show the wiring of the tactile switches, to include how they are ran from and to controller. Building AH64 TEDAC. Share wiring diagram, please ? Thanks!!
Amazing work...
Yo man, love the project, im setting off on my own Home PittCock journey, but i know nothing about electronic lighting, i think i have everything down BUT ..... Backlighting!!!
What a pain in the scrote backlighting is. Ive used a MOSFET breakout board to separate the 12v supply from the arduino board so i can trigger the backlight from Mobiflight.
Im on 3x 3.3v white LEDs and a resistor per loop, arranged in parallel loops on a 12v circuit.
But the circuit can change to a different power brick. I "calculated" the resistor value to require 100R resistors..
The result is amounts of light barely detectable to the human eye 😂
Any recommendations on troubleshooting a power discrepancy and selecting a power circuit or changing out the resistance?
Kinda scared to slam a load more current through it tbh.
Amazing, Great job.
crazy amount of work! looks great though! how much power are you using on your K40 to cut the PCB boards strips?
Mines got a 60watt tube. It cuts the board at 60% power at 12mm/s. It wont go through the metal on the boards, so i have to score the metal first and then just pop them out. Works well!
Honestly don't think I've ever been so envious of anything as I am of your amazing setup.. I don't know if you talk about it much in your videos because I'm just starting to watch them all but how you hook them up to those boards and get them to function is there a program or do you have to make a program how does that all work
Im trying to make my own MFDs and I ordered the wrong experimental PCB lol. Trying to figure out your soldering and wiring there, do you have any other detailed pics or diagrams?
Fantastic work! An inspiration.
(You're using stripboard here, though… it's not a PCB if it's not printed and not a circuit ;) )
Did you use stripboard or PCB's on your sim?
@@paulaglet4255 stripboard up to now. I have a CNC engraver that could make engraved circuit boards, but having made a couple I'd rather fire up Kicad and pay JLCPCB a few quid and wait.
Love watching your videos, great project, as well as great video production quality. I have a question though, how many arduinos does it take to operate the pit, and is it hard to get them to interact? Never done any coding, but really really really want to make my own pit for the F14, I've found a stick and throttle for sale so that's a good start! Also ordered flight manuals off Amazon for it.
Amazing job!!
I’m building a similar setup for my Batmobile I’m about 3 months from finishing
I know this is an older video. But where do I get the boards like that you have your switch in.
You're fucking insane. I love it.
That Wasn't Me. That Was Patricia .
I wish these were sold somewhere
I love it too
Hiya, what laser do you use to cut out the acrylic sheets ?
What colour spray did you use for the buttons mate? Was it still rustoleum? Can't see a matte grey version from them.
Me: "Thrustmaster Cougar MFDs are more than adequate for any sim rig."
T.W.P: "Hold my beer..."
you should make and sell this stuff
Quick question...what 3d printer and laser cutter do you use and how much was it for the gear.
What size screen did you use for the mfcd
Very Nice
Hi. I was wondering what kind of rotary switch you used? I've tried searching ebay but haven't found anything other than rotary encoders that look like that. Can you tell me the model of the switch. Thank you.
Hi would u be looking to build some of the mfd or just 3d printed parts
did you use a 8 pos rotary switch for the Day-Night -Off switch? I dont find anything in the proper size... They are all to big.
I put rubber sheet behind my rocker switch to block light :)
Ты просто красавчик!
Intro - where's the BRRRRTTT?
The lack of BRRRRTTT in this video was noted. I have indeed broken my own rule of having BRRRRTTT in every single
video. I promise the next video will make up for it by including excessive BRRRRTTT.
Mate, fucking awesomeness
PCB design is really easy with a software such as KiCad (free) or Fritzing (dunno if still free). you can learn enough to meet all your needs in less than 1h. I get that prototype boards are easier to deal with for such simple circuits (and much less expensive too), but you shouldn't be afraid to try them out if and when you do more complex stuff.
Also other question, why use the BBI-64? Currently working with a teensy LC, and with easy to implement matrix I can get more buttons (incl. analog inputs) than the BBI-64 for a fraction of the cost while still getting joystick emulation...
I used a BBI-64 only because ive used them before, and they are a proven and simple plug and play solution. A teensy/Arduino would require me to design and/or build a seperate matrix, then flash firmware on it to have it show up in windows as a HID device. With the Leo Bodnar- i just have to connect one wire to the card and its good to go. In my opionion they are worth the cost.
@@thewarthogproject Good point, thanks for the reply. I knew someone who did a 737 sim in his house and I also always wondered why he used older hardware he needed to code in assembly. But since you don't need extra coding, I can see the convenience is worth the price. Keep up the amazing work!
What a awesome setup. Step up from VR.
I’m sure you’re better then those A-10 pilots because they don’t know how to make a home cockpit 🤣
IRL you NEVER see a plane bank away from a tanker like that.. Looks cool tho'
What rotary switch did you use?
au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/688-SRBV131803
11:45
"pretty simple nothing fancy"
yeah sure this is *not* fancy
nice
so where did you source such small screens from?
also if you are in brisbane. do you wana sell me the old MFD's I was about to order 2 :)
The whole front panel is one large 27 inch monitor
@@thewarthogproject ahhh ok. so you can just create new gauges or ddi's as you want as long as there is room... thats cool
sell me the 2 old ones? im near sunnybank ??
The sound keeps cutting when the music is on.
Yeah sorry, copywrite claimed by the 'owner'. I won't fall for the royalty free music scam again... I just muted it rather than re upload.
Wow have you thought of selling them