Super informative! I've been scouring the forums looking for info in preparation for my next project, a 2001 Astro AWD beater. Your video has answered more questions than all of my scouring. Bookmarked and subbed. Thanks!
I would love to meet up and off road with you guys and my 95 all-wheel drive,and I'd also like to get some tips and some pointers on what I can do to modify me a skid plate
Great video man... you've done some things that I hadn't considered or found in the forums. I have spent some time looking into a front diff dtop for these vans. Almost every part in the front suspension is found on other vehicles and the couple that I can't match part numbers for may be fundamentally the same as other vehicles (I have to get the junked parts to see if the measurements and angles are the same). It would take a Frankenstein of a couple different lift kits but if a person can find the specific parts to cobble it together it might be doable. Also on one of the astrosafari forums there are plans for a really nice skid plate that covers everything from the front bumper to the transfer case. I have so many plans for my Safari... super exciting.
Thanks for watching! Yeah the "parts-bin build" nature of these GM vans keeps the repair cost reasonable and that was a big draw for a cheapskate like me haha! A diff drop is a great way to minimize axle joint operating angles, but for my van (the subject van in the vid) the goal is to provide as much off-road ground clearance as possible and the diff drop idea runs counter to that goal.
Great video; I just bought a '99 a few days ago that is lifted already. I'm going to grab a creeper and a handful f wrenches and check it all over along with hoses etc. Watching vids to get familiar with it all.Thanks for all the info.
Great info, looking for a vedio just like this but in a 2 wheel drive version. Your the first lift vedio I've seen that addresses the problem with reliability the higher you go, and you show solutions to boot, very nice job, that has always been my concern
Pretty cool.... ive got a 2002 awd, and the General A/T2s i have, in stock 215/75 rub in the front (not stock wheels, i think they're from a pickup, maybe a little more offset) I already raised the torsion bars a little, might look into the journey kit. What i really need, heh, is better gas mileage!
flip the tie rod end to the top of the attachment point on the knuckle, instead of it being on the bottom as per stock. It would take some modification to the knuckle, because iirc the hole that the tie rod end goes in is tapered, and the taper would have to go the opposite way, but I think there are shims you can get to do exactly this mod. That would set the angle for the tie rods to be almost perfectly straight with what you've already done.
Interesting idea. Right now the lay of the tie rods are fairly parallel to the lower control arms, which is the ideal compromise geometry. Raising the tie rod in this configuration would introduce some pretty hairy bump-steer in all conditions due to an aggressive mismatch in component arc paths. Its a case of a little is good, too much could kill you. Thanks for the comment!
It’s in the works! If you don’t feel like waiting the van does appear in a few other videos on our channel! Check out the lost lakes trip and mount Patterson trip videos.
check out the short youtube vid "WAR offroad sierra buttes snow challenge" and you'll see this minivan rescue a Jeep as well as some quick snow action.
This is one of the best videos I've seen where someone explains a lift but does not actually show the process. I did notice that nail before you mentioned it. Btw, how do you tuck the lower link of the swaybar after disconnect?
Thanks! I loosely zip-tie the link to the upper control arm each time I disconnect. Have a look at our other video where I put the van through the paces at an off road park. It shows the process clearly- ruclips.net/video/htSDsnsPg6k/видео.html
Don't Drill the Rivets out, Use a Grinder and Grind the Heads off them and then use a Little Metal Punch & Hammer to knock the Rivets out, That's how I always do mine and It literally takes like 5 mins to do them LoL, So try it my way next time and see what why you think is easier to do ok......
The faith you have in those jack stands is rock solid. They don't look like they'd hold a bicyle, yet... at least box em up. Look at the 3 ton cheapos from harbor freight, they're stout for sure! Best of luck with yours, and be safe.
I've not seen lift knuckles for AWD's like the featured van, but I understand if you are lifting a 2wd van, there are knuckles out there which could be a pricey way to go about the lift. Please link the knuckles if you know of an AWD set. Thanks!
Thanks! I stuck with the oe-replacement style. I am running Gabriel Ultra G63454. They give a nice ride and do a good job off-road too. They offer ample drop even with the extra lift. Longer shocks would necessitate a longer flexible rear brake hose. I find the rear travel and articulation is excellent, far outpacing the ability of the front.
I'd not use airbags unless I was using the van to routinely carry heavy loads. As for years, I'd look for 1996 and newer due to a more modern engine management and fuel injection design, and the updated interior over the 1995-older. The ideal van is a low mileage 2003-2005 for the heavier duty hubs, which are 6-lug vs the 5 lug of 2002 and older.
Great video my friend. This is easier to follow than a lot of other videos or threads Ive looked into. Question: What was your solution for the engine sagging and sitting on the axle? Have you had to replace the engine mounts? did that fix it long-term? thanks a bunch
Hi thanks. Yes I originally replaced the mounts with oem style rubber, but they sagged quickly. I changed to poly and have clearance, but it's only around 1/8 inch. The poly can take the abuse and shock loads that off-roading delivers to the drivetrain, whereas the rubber design can't really.
I don't intend on doing extreme off-roading/rock crawling but my alignment shop has a hard time getting my camber/castor right on the passenger side - I did the larger torsion keys - Thinking of doing the upper ball joint swap in an effort to make his life easier - Would probably do the shock swap at that time as well... How's the road handling with all these modifications? Ben thinking about your skid plate which is obviously a good idea - I'm thinking about an oil pan protector, basically a smaller plate
I wasn't able to obtain correct camber readings until I flipped the upper ball joints. Even with the adjustment knock-outs removed. I seem to recall my passenger side being a problem too until that point. I'm running 30" General Grabber Atx's. The road holding is excellent. Just finished a 700-mile interstate trip averaging 70-ish MPH and she handled it with confidence.
@@ericschulte1853 thank you - I'm running 30" Falken Wildpeaks - I already put the HD ACDelco upper and lower ball joints (with the blue rubber boots) on - as soon as I can find the time I'm doing it
The heims are sway bar end link take-offs from the rear of a 2003 Corvette. I extended them about to about 6" total length. I only cut an inch or two from the sway bar, just enough to clear the upper control arm when swinging it up and out of the way. Thanks for watching!
if you are starting with a 2wd van, the best step is to start by swapping out your front sub frame. The AWD subframe has all the awd parts bolted to it, ie differential, torsion bars, suspension, etc. It is a very sanitary way to convert a 2wd to 4x4. Without that your next option is a diy straight-axle swap and that's a lot of work and fabrication. As for swapping a t-case to a 2wd van, the t-case will not bolt onto the stock 2wd transmission as-is. Good luck!
I got them from Summit Racing's website. Lots of good parts for our vans can be found there. If you are stock, I suggest running stock length Gabriel Ultra's for your van. Great performance for the price.
Yes. An added bonus is normal street driving in 2 hi completely eliminates the annoying t-case bind you feel from time-to-time with the stock full-time AWD set up of the earlier vans. Much nicer all the way around!
Thank you! No they weren’t under too much pressure. The problem was when at full drop the upper control arm would contact the bump pad on the frame. By flipping the joint he was able to gain extra articulation.
@@ericschulte1853 okay one other question I was looking to do the front shock upgrade but can't find th k20 shocks anywhere, do you have a part #/ where you ordered it from. Everything I see doesn't have the top spacer as it comes from the factory does the k20 setup have this?
@@josephczerniawski2134 I am using Gabriel 61516. They stiffen up the ride a bit. You can find them at Summit Racing or probably even ebay. However, be aware that the steel shock-eyelet bushing insert is not as wide on these "k20" shocks as our vans' oem shocks, so you will need to add a few washers as spacers to take up the gap when installing. This goes for the top and bottom eyelets.
Yes (vid is of my van). However, be aware that the steel shock-eyelet bushing insert is not as wide on these "k20" shocks as our vans' oem shocks, so you will need to add a few washers as spacers to take up the gap when installing. This goes for the top and bottom eyelets.
I was thinking about an Astro for my first overland rig. After watching this, I may go with something else. This seems like a lot of work for minimal improvement.
it is, and there are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay easier ways to get off road in newer, cushier equipment. Just go buy a Wrangler, Colorado or Tacoma and your good. This vid is for those committed to offroading a cool old minivan, definitely not intended to convince folks who'd rather hit the "easy button". Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@ericschulte1853 I certainly wouldn't have clicked on the video if I was looking for new and cushy. I'm just looking for something I can sleep in and something where the hard work yields more capability. Thanks for replying!
@@bradh6185 You can still do plenty of trails, off-roading and overlanding in these vans with just a 2" lift and taller tires (I did for a while), many are even doing it stock. The extras I added beyond that are what I've done to keep up with the WAR off-road crew's ever increasingly challenging off-road excursions.
I lost my "before" measurements, but I think I'm around 7" over stock: 5.5" lift is from the chassis/suspension, plus another 1.5" from the taller tires. My current measurements are: 21" from hub center to wheel arch; 34.5" from ground to wheel arch. This is on regular-duty S-10 leaf springs that are hard-mounted to the axle with stock shackles at the rear, torsion keys, bj flip and longer shocks at the front.
Yup. One of the trade-offs when you make the choice to mod a van. Look for one with the 27 gallon gas tank, like my van, featured in the video. Also look for 3.73 gears if possible to mitigate the strain of taller tires. Also drive a lil slower on the way to to the trails to increase mpg's if it's that's yer thing.
Oh? So This is What You Need To Do To Re-Engineer And Cut This Back And Hammer This Over Here! Zero Stainless! So Phase 3 We Want To Direct Your Attention To! WHY? These Vans Go 500k Miles Just Changing The Oil. This Is How You Start Fixing Stuff That Was Never Broke! And Need To Fix Stuff You Broke!
Super informative! I've been scouring the forums looking for info in preparation for my next project, a 2001 Astro AWD beater. Your video has answered more questions than all of my scouring. Bookmarked and subbed. Thanks!
Glad we could help! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Great video, I'm getting ready to start a series on my 99 AWD conversion Astro. Lift should be here Saturday, along with the 4wd conversion parts.
I would love to meet up and off road with you guys and my 95 all-wheel drive,and I'd also like to get some tips and some pointers on what I can do to modify me a skid plate
Great video man... you've done some things that I hadn't considered or found in the forums. I have spent some time looking into a front diff dtop for these vans. Almost every part in the front suspension is found on other vehicles and the couple that I can't match part numbers for may be fundamentally the same as other vehicles (I have to get the junked parts to see if the measurements and angles are the same). It would take a Frankenstein of a couple different lift kits but if a person can find the specific parts to cobble it together it might be doable. Also on one of the astrosafari forums there are plans for a really nice skid plate that covers everything from the front bumper to the transfer case. I have so many plans for my Safari... super exciting.
Thanks for watching! Yeah the "parts-bin build" nature of these GM vans keeps the repair cost reasonable and that was a big draw for a cheapskate like me haha! A diff drop is a great way to minimize axle joint operating angles, but for my van (the subject van in the vid) the goal is to provide as much off-road ground clearance as possible and the diff drop idea runs counter to that goal.
Great video; I just bought a '99 a few days ago that is lifted already. I'm going to grab a creeper and a handful f wrenches and check it all over along with hoses etc. Watching vids to get familiar with it all.Thanks for all the info.
Great info, looking for a vedio just like this but in a 2 wheel drive version.
Your the first lift vedio I've seen that addresses the problem with reliability the higher you go, and you show solutions to boot, very nice job, that has always been my concern
Glad it was helpful!
Pretty cool.... ive got a 2002 awd, and the General A/T2s i have, in stock 215/75 rub in the front (not stock wheels, i think they're from a pickup, maybe a little more offset) I already raised the torsion bars a little, might look into the journey kit. What i really need, heh, is better gas mileage!
Love the video! Well done 👍🏻
Thank you so much for this video and info! ✌🏽
Nice vid! Try finding idler/pitman arms that are "flatter" to correct the steering. Way better than the nut-spacer setup
if you have any relevant part numbers, I'd love to have a look at them! Thanks!
flip the tie rod end to the top of the attachment point on the knuckle, instead of it being on the bottom as per stock. It would take some modification to the knuckle, because iirc the hole that the tie rod end goes in is tapered, and the taper would have to go the opposite way, but I think there are shims you can get to do exactly this mod. That would set the angle for the tie rods to be almost perfectly straight with what you've already done.
Interesting idea. Right now the lay of the tie rods are fairly parallel to the lower control arms, which is the ideal compromise geometry. Raising the tie rod in this configuration would introduce some pretty hairy bump-steer in all conditions due to an aggressive mismatch in component arc paths. Its a case of a little is good, too much could kill you. Thanks for the comment!
Awesome Video!
Upload videos of you taking this off-roading
It’s in the works! If you don’t feel like waiting the van does appear in a few other videos on our channel! Check out the lost lakes trip and mount Patterson trip videos.
check out the short youtube vid "WAR offroad sierra buttes snow challenge" and you'll see this minivan rescue a Jeep as well as some quick snow action.
This is one of the best videos I've seen where someone explains a lift but does not actually show the process. I did notice that nail before you mentioned it. Btw, how do you tuck the lower link of the swaybar after disconnect?
Thanks! I loosely zip-tie the link to the upper control arm each time I disconnect. Have a look at our other video where I put the van through the paces at an off road park. It shows the process clearly- ruclips.net/video/htSDsnsPg6k/видео.html
Great video 👍
wow lots of work, well done
Don't Drill the Rivets out, Use a Grinder and Grind the Heads off them and then use a Little Metal Punch & Hammer to knock the Rivets out, That's how I always do mine and It literally takes like 5 mins to do them LoL, So try it my way next time and see what why you think is easier to do ok......
The faith you have in those jack stands is rock solid. They don't look like they'd hold a bicyle, yet... at least box em up. Look at the 3 ton cheapos from harbor freight, they're stout for sure! Best of luck with yours, and be safe.
When your soul is prepared, you too shan't worry about such trivialities as this...
@0neOver0neThreeSeven you are unkind and hurtful to a total stranger. why?
Who buys your jacks? Those are bigger than most I've seen
I bought my company's cargo astro Van I'll will drive this was very helpful thank you very much. awesome video. thank you.
If you want more lift in the front do knuckles. Don't mess with the springs. They make 2 inch lift knuckles
I've not seen lift knuckles for AWD's like the featured van, but I understand if you are lifting a 2wd van, there are knuckles out there which could be a pricey way to go about the lift. Please link the knuckles if you know of an AWD set. Thanks!
Awesome video thank for all the detail! What shocks did you use on the back to go with the 4” lift
Thanks! I stuck with the oe-replacement style. I am running Gabriel Ultra G63454. They give a nice ride and do a good job off-road too. They offer ample drop even with the extra lift. Longer shocks would necessitate a longer flexible rear brake hose. I find the rear travel and articulation is excellent, far outpacing the ability of the front.
Easy to watch great thks would you put air bags on the rear? I am looking for a a.w.d any year better than others
I'd not use airbags unless I was using the van to routinely carry heavy loads. As for years, I'd look for 1996 and newer due to a more modern engine management and fuel injection design, and the updated interior over the 1995-older. The ideal van is a low mileage 2003-2005 for the heavier duty hubs, which are 6-lug vs the 5 lug of 2002 and older.
Great videos! What LSD did you install? Joe
Where are you guys located?? I need that custom swaybar idea for my van
Great video my friend. This is easier to follow than a lot of other videos or threads Ive looked into. Question: What was your solution for the engine sagging and sitting on the axle? Have you had to replace the engine mounts? did that fix it long-term? thanks a bunch
Hi thanks. Yes I originally replaced the mounts with oem style rubber, but they sagged quickly. I changed to poly and have clearance, but it's only around 1/8 inch. The poly can take the abuse and shock loads that off-roading delivers to the drivetrain, whereas the rubber design can't really.
Latest engine mount solution: ruclips.net/video/Z0imlXdGGps/видео.html
Great video, thanks! What shocks are you running on the front. Just got a 98 awd astro and want to do something similar.
Thanks! The shocks are Gabriel 61516!
Did you need longer bolts for the idler arms to account for the spacers?
In the middle of a journey's 3-5 lift currently. Did you change the keys on you torsion bars?
I didn't know if that was needed.
Yea! The keys were swapped out. Depending on how New/good your torsion bars are you may not need to but it helps.
I don't intend on doing extreme off-roading/rock crawling but my alignment shop has a hard time getting my camber/castor right on the passenger side - I did the larger torsion keys - Thinking of doing the upper ball joint swap in an effort to make his life easier - Would probably do the shock swap at that time as well... How's the road handling with all these modifications?
Ben thinking about your skid plate which is obviously a good idea - I'm thinking about an oil pan protector, basically a smaller plate
Those are great ideas , especially the skid plate and shock idea
I wasn't able to obtain correct camber readings until I flipped the upper ball joints. Even with the adjustment knock-outs removed. I seem to recall my passenger side being a problem too until that point. I'm running 30" General Grabber Atx's. The road holding is excellent. Just finished a 700-mile interstate trip averaging 70-ish MPH and she handled it with confidence.
@@ericschulte1853 thank you - I'm running 30" Falken Wildpeaks - I already put the HD ACDelco upper and lower ball joints (with the blue rubber boots) on - as soon as I can find the time I'm doing it
@@ericschulte1853 The flip worked.... Whew....!
@@AstroVanTribe Cool. Don't skip out on the longer shocks, take advantage of that extra little bit of down-travel.
Well done
Great idea on the sway bar. What's the length and size of the heim turnbuckles, and how much did you end up cutting off the sway bar?
The heims are sway bar end link take-offs from the rear of a 2003 Corvette. I extended them about to about 6" total length. I only cut an inch or two from the sway bar, just enough to clear the upper control arm when swinging it up and out of the way. Thanks for watching!
@@ericschulte1853 Thanks for the info!
Unreal
Can the s10 transfer case 4x4 mod be done to a 2wd astro van? Maybe finding a parts awd van for the driveshafts or is there a lot more to it?
if you are starting with a 2wd van, the best step is to start by swapping out your front sub frame. The AWD subframe has all the awd parts bolted to it, ie differential, torsion bars, suspension, etc. It is a very sanitary way to convert a 2wd to 4x4. Without that your next option is a diy straight-axle swap and that's a lot of work and fabrication. As for swapping a t-case to a 2wd van, the t-case will not bolt onto the stock 2wd transmission as-is. Good luck!
Where did You get Shocks, will they also work on a stock AWD.. Great info and Video-Thanks....
I got them from Summit Racing's website. Lots of good parts for our vans can be found there. If you are stock, I suggest running stock length Gabriel Ultra's for your van. Great performance for the price.
Thanks
Transfer case swap is the best mod, low range is a must
The transfer case swap was the first thing he did.
Yes. An added bonus is normal street driving in 2 hi completely eliminates the annoying t-case bind you feel from time-to-time with the stock full-time AWD set up of the earlier vans. Much nicer all the way around!
this is really great information and coverage of your journey.
the steering ball joints are under too much tension?
Thank you! No they weren’t under too much pressure. The problem was when at full drop the upper control arm would contact the bump pad on the frame. By flipping the joint he was able to gain extra articulation.
Did you change the transfer case to a selectable unit?
Yes, it is a transfer case from a 1999 Blazer. I used the Journey's shifter kit. Thanks for watching!
Nice
I'am Your Newest Subscriber Great Videos. I Just Got A 1999 2wd Chevy Astro Van I Wanta lift It To Get 235/75/15 Tires Under It
Where did you buy the sway bar? I need to upgrade mine
He fabricated it himself!
What state are you in? I just bought a 1996 AWD Astro.
Beautiful, sunny California!
What are the odds you'd be willing to build another one of those skid plates and sell it to a fellow van overlander :) ?
Great Job love the work, planning on doing something similar, would you be interested in building and selling the sway bar disconnects for my build?
I'd love to help with your project but I can't. The job requires cutting and welding to your bar and lower control arms. Thanks for watching!
@@ericschulte1853 okay one other question I was looking to do the front shock upgrade but can't find th k20 shocks anywhere, do you have a part #/ where you ordered it from. Everything I see doesn't have the top spacer as it comes from the factory does the k20 setup have this?
@@josephczerniawski2134 I am using Gabriel 61516. They stiffen up the ride a bit. You can find them at Summit Racing or probably even ebay. However, be aware that the steel shock-eyelet bushing insert is not as wide on these "k20" shocks as our vans' oem shocks, so you will need to add a few washers as spacers to take up the gap when installing. This goes for the top and bottom eyelets.
Do you think/know if them Gabriel 61516 shocks will work on the 2004 AWD Astro? I've done the 5" Journey's kit
Yes (vid is of my van). However, be aware that the steel shock-eyelet bushing insert is not as wide on these "k20" shocks as our vans' oem shocks, so you will need to add a few washers as spacers to take up the gap when installing. This goes for the top and bottom eyelets.
What kind of fuel mileage do you get on it ?
No idea, it has a 27 gallon tank but I've never checked economy. I assume +/- 15 mpg.
What vehicle are the rims from???
They’re the original wheels that came with the van! Just bigger tires.
I was thinking about an Astro for my first overland rig. After watching this, I may go with something else. This seems like a lot of work for minimal improvement.
it is, and there are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay easier ways to get off road in newer, cushier equipment. Just go buy a Wrangler, Colorado or Tacoma and your good. This vid is for those committed to offroading a cool old minivan, definitely not intended to convince folks who'd rather hit the "easy button". Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@ericschulte1853 I certainly wouldn't have clicked on the video if I was looking for new and cushy. I'm just looking for something I can sleep in and something where the hard work yields more capability. Thanks for replying!
@@bradh6185 You can still do plenty of trails, off-roading and overlanding in these vans with just a 2" lift and taller tires (I did for a while), many are even doing it stock. The extras I added beyond that are what I've done to keep up with the WAR off-road crew's ever increasingly challenging off-road excursions.
@@ericschulte1853 👍
How much lift ?
I lost my "before" measurements, but I think I'm around 7" over stock: 5.5" lift is from the chassis/suspension, plus another 1.5" from the taller tires. My current measurements are: 21" from hub center to wheel arch; 34.5" from ground to wheel arch. This is on regular-duty S-10 leaf springs that are hard-mounted to the axle with stock shackles at the rear, torsion keys, bj flip and longer shocks at the front.
Stock shackles at the rear, but what about the front spring hanger? stock or dropped?@@ericschulte1853
ah man, that moment you realize you got a nail in the tire
Most Astros have a high gear ratio and gas mileage suffers
Yup. One of the trade-offs when you make the choice to mod a van. Look for one with the 27 gallon gas tank, like my van, featured in the video. Also look for 3.73 gears if possible to mitigate the strain of taller tires. Also drive a lil slower on the way to to the trails to increase mpg's if it's that's yer thing.
Oh? So This is What You Need To Do To Re-Engineer And Cut This Back And Hammer This Over Here! Zero Stainless! So Phase 3 We Want To Direct Your Attention To! WHY? These Vans Go 500k Miles Just Changing The Oil. This Is How You Start Fixing Stuff That Was Never Broke! And Need To Fix Stuff You Broke!
Very cool! thanks for the input!