You did such a great job! Nice to see you cleaning and lubricating before fitting the new parts. Taking 12 hours for a job that you've never done before is still really good especially as you didn't have everything you needed on day one and no one to instruct you. The lift is a blessing for jobs like this. I used to work on buses and this was one of the most laborious maintenance jobs but still preferable to changing axle oil or doing any work on exhausts. Sometimes I would loosen the tie rods and work the steering back and forth which might cause enough movement to pop them off, but there were many times with gargantuan ball joint splitters and sledgehammers and near-heart attacks when they suddenly let go. I can appreciate dealers and factory workshops have to charge more because they warranty the work and have overheads that the average guy in a shed doesn't 😅 but it's fantastic to do the job yourself, to have the pride in your work and expand your capabilities.
Thank you! Yes I’ve learnt that cleaning everything is the best thing to do seeing as I won’t be near it for another 70k or so. The lift is something I’ve always wanted so definitely making the most of it! I imagine the parts on the buses were much bigger and heftier to move around? Yes it’s nice to be able to do stuff myself and learn along the way, it means next time will be easier and more efficient! Thanks for watching as always 😁
One of the joys of owning an Audi i found out the hard way. My previous BMW E90 arms where not this complex. I did these arms over several weekends. The upper pinch bolt was frozen so got local garage to heat and losen the bolt. The balljoint on the lower curved arm was the most painfull job ever...it just would not move. I did not completely remove the heat shield...just the lower 10mm and middle 13mm was enough to get the bolt out. I noticed you did not raise the suspension before torque the bushes...maybe you did them off camera :)
Yes the punch bolts are the worst for most people, luckily mine had been only put in a few months prior to the job. Yes torqued under load, don’t always catch everything on camera unfortunately, usually in a rush to get back home to bed 😂
Dam you Audi. I've got a Seat Exeo which is based on the A4 B7 platform, and it's got the same set up with the suspension. I think it's a job for someone else. I'll do what I can myself, but I don't think I'll have the patience for that.
Tbh it’s not too bad, but nuts and bolts that have been there for so many years can be a massive pain! I think I’ve sorted out what the last ball joint issue was, will make a video covering it 😁
The first lower reward control arm you struggled with getting out I assume was one with slop on reinstalls. Here why… if you look at your old one it has a sleeve stuck on the tapered portion of old ball joint. That sleeve is press fitted into knuckle so said knuckle can be used across more then one chassis but also use different styles of arms/ball joints as required. They notoriously get stuck on ball joint taper and require being heated and pinched in a vice then hammer the threads of ball joint to separate. Sit sleeve back in knuckle and take a long bolt 2 XXL washer one on top of sleeve bolt down through then washer on bottom of knuckle with a nut and run it home to press the sleeve back in. That will then retain the ball joint taper dimensions specific to this chassis.
My B9 is knocking on low speeds when turning and when breaking, assuming its the rear lower suspension arm. Are these oil filled? Could they be the cause of the issue, just replaced the top ones and the pinch bolt was a PAIN.
Could be the issue, giving it a wiggle with a pry bar might help see if the movement is excessive. I’m still chasing issues with mine. Luckily my pinch bolt was ok as previously removed, I’ve heard they can be a massive pain!
@@JAYPCARS im going to get under the car today to check, mines a 2.0tfsi quattro and i also get a weird whinning noise from the right front of the engine bay
Managed to get the part for £65 from Febi OE quality. Looks easy enough to DIY. Still got an annoying ‘whinning’ noise from the engine though when driving
I'm doing this stupid ass job right now (less tie rod ends, I guess), and I'm thru 6:20 and am at 7:35. I'll tell you...just banging on past the dust boot scares the crap out of me, given the steering gear assembly is a $3,000 part. I *think* the boot came away mostly unscathed thru removal of the bolt, but I can't get it back through without beating the crap out of the boot. And actually, I'm not even sure it will clear the rod inside the dust boot. I'm not replacing the tie rod ends, but I'm tempted to pull them to see if I can get them to lift up and out of the way enough to gain clearance. When you pulled yours to replace, did they end up moving upward enough to gain clearance on the dust boots for the rear bolts to pass thru the control arm?
I didn’t realise it’s a $3000 part, I would have been more careful 😂😂 I didn’t pay much attention to how much access they provided when loose, probably should have done them first as it may have made a difference, might be worth a go if you’re at risk of damaging the boots!
@@JAYPCARS Come to find out, the boots can be purchased separately. The inner clamp appears to require dropping the crossmember, and given I JUST replaced all that hardware due to replacement of a shattered sway bar, I ain't about to do it again. 😂 Will be time in about 10,000 miles to drop it for the trans pan and fluid replacement, so I'll just swap on a new boot then. I did tear it worse trying to get the bolt in, and it's still not even in. 😴
Sounds like a pain, but at least it’s future you that has to deal with it 😂 My boots just wouldn’t budge whatever I tried. I need to do a gearbox oil and filter change when I get a chance.
@@JAYPCARS These fucking cars... why do we punish ourselves so? I guess I tell myself it's worth it when it's a treat to drive. Which it will be after this front end noise is gone. Appreciate the video. I have instructions from 034 as well as the factory manual, but real world knuckle busting is still sometimes the best guidance. 🤜
That was done by jacking up suspension, also double checked when on the ground again. When it went into the garage I asked them to check it was all torqued correctly too 😃
![GEEK TIMË [OFFICIAL AUDIO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ry-6RvkH880/mqdefault.jpg)
"My Pole is MASSIVE!... It's REALLY strong!" 😂
It’s definitely the biggest tool that I have
You did such a great job! Nice to see you cleaning and lubricating before fitting the new parts. Taking 12 hours for a job that you've never done before is still really good especially as you didn't have everything you needed on day one and no one to instruct you. The lift is a blessing for jobs like this. I used to work on buses and this was one of the most laborious maintenance jobs but still preferable to changing axle oil or doing any work on exhausts. Sometimes I would loosen the tie rods and work the steering back and forth which might cause enough movement to pop them off, but there were many times with gargantuan ball joint splitters and sledgehammers and near-heart attacks when they suddenly let go. I can appreciate dealers and factory workshops have to charge more because they warranty the work and have overheads that the average guy in a shed doesn't 😅 but it's fantastic to do the job yourself, to have the pride in your work and expand your capabilities.
Thank you! Yes I’ve learnt that cleaning everything is the best thing to do seeing as I won’t be near it for another 70k or so. The lift is something I’ve always wanted so definitely making the most of it! I imagine the parts on the buses were much bigger and heftier to move around? Yes it’s nice to be able to do stuff myself and learn along the way, it means next time will be easier and more efficient! Thanks for watching as always 😁
very good perspective on how to repair the ball joints on an Audi; thank you!
You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
One of the joys of owning an Audi i found out the hard way. My previous BMW E90 arms where not this complex. I did these arms over several weekends. The upper pinch bolt was frozen so got local garage to heat and losen the bolt. The balljoint on the lower curved arm was the most painfull job ever...it just would not move. I did not completely remove the heat shield...just the lower 10mm and middle 13mm was enough to get the bolt out. I noticed you did not raise the suspension before torque the bushes...maybe you did them off camera :)
Yes the punch bolts are the worst for most people, luckily mine had been only put in a few months prior to the job. Yes torqued under load, don’t always catch everything on camera unfortunately, usually in a rush to get back home to bed 😂
I've seen a ball joint separator tool, pair it with impact will make your life a lot easier!
Good idea!
Dam you Audi. I've got a Seat Exeo which is based on the A4 B7 platform, and it's got the same set up with the suspension. I think it's a job for someone else. I'll do what I can myself, but I don't think I'll have the patience for that.
Tbh it’s not too bad, but nuts and bolts that have been there for so many years can be a massive pain! I think I’ve sorted out what the last ball joint issue was, will make a video covering it 😁
The first lower reward control arm you struggled with getting out I assume was one with slop on reinstalls. Here why… if you look at your old one it has a sleeve stuck on the tapered portion of old ball joint. That sleeve is press fitted into knuckle so said knuckle can be used across more then one chassis but also use different styles of arms/ball joints as required. They notoriously get stuck on ball joint taper and require being heated and pinched in a vice then hammer the threads of ball joint to separate. Sit sleeve back in knuckle and take a long bolt 2 XXL washer one on top of sleeve bolt down through then washer on bottom of knuckle with a nut and run it home to press the sleeve back in. That will then retain the ball joint taper dimensions specific to this chassis.
Yes I think that was the one iirc. Ah ok so not as simple as just fitting them then!
My B9 is knocking on low speeds when turning and when breaking, assuming its the rear lower suspension arm. Are these oil filled? Could they be the cause of the issue, just replaced the top ones and the pinch bolt was a PAIN.
Could be the issue, giving it a wiggle with a pry bar might help see if the movement is excessive. I’m still chasing issues with mine. Luckily my pinch bolt was ok as previously removed, I’ve heard they can be a massive pain!
@@JAYPCARS im going to get under the car today to check, mines a 2.0tfsi quattro and i also get a weird whinning noise from the right front of the engine bay
How did it go?
@@JAYPCARS there definitely is some movement in it and oil coming out of the bush ao will be replacing
Managed to get the part for £65 from Febi OE quality. Looks easy enough to DIY. Still got an annoying ‘whinning’ noise from the engine though when driving
I'm doing this stupid ass job right now (less tie rod ends, I guess), and I'm thru 6:20 and am at 7:35. I'll tell you...just banging on past the dust boot scares the crap out of me, given the steering gear assembly is a $3,000 part. I *think* the boot came away mostly unscathed thru removal of the bolt, but I can't get it back through without beating the crap out of the boot. And actually, I'm not even sure it will clear the rod inside the dust boot.
I'm not replacing the tie rod ends, but I'm tempted to pull them to see if I can get them to lift up and out of the way enough to gain clearance. When you pulled yours to replace, did they end up moving upward enough to gain clearance on the dust boots for the rear bolts to pass thru the control arm?
I didn’t realise it’s a $3000 part, I would have been more careful 😂😂
I didn’t pay much attention to how much access they provided when loose, probably should have done them first as it may have made a difference, might be worth a go if you’re at risk of damaging the boots!
@@JAYPCARS Come to find out, the boots can be purchased separately. The inner clamp appears to require dropping the crossmember, and given I JUST replaced all that hardware due to replacement of a shattered sway bar, I ain't about to do it again. 😂
Will be time in about 10,000 miles to drop it for the trans pan and fluid replacement, so I'll just swap on a new boot then. I did tear it worse trying to get the bolt in, and it's still not even in. 😴
Sounds like a pain, but at least it’s future you that has to deal with it 😂 My boots just wouldn’t budge whatever I tried. I need to do a gearbox oil and filter change when I get a chance.
@@JAYPCARS These fucking cars... why do we punish ourselves so? I guess I tell myself it's worth it when it's a treat to drive. Which it will be after this front end noise is gone.
Appreciate the video. I have instructions from 034 as well as the factory manual, but real world knuckle busting is still sometimes the best guidance. 🤜
We do it in the name of love 🤣 Yes I’m a video learner myself so I try to give back my putting these videos out for others to see the process 😃
Needed to torque the bushes up with suspension compressed at ride height otherwise they will fail prematurely
That was done by jacking up suspension, also double checked when on the ground again. When it went into the garage I asked them to check it was all torqued correctly too 😃