DIY How To Install A Heat Duct Going To The Floor in Your Basement
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- Опубликовано: 30 янв 2025
- How to bring heat to the floor in a basement. Forget floor insulation, run a quick duct line and enjoy your space.
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crimped metal end goes toward direction of air flow...
Exactly I’m a licensed contractor in Detroit Our inspectors would flag that right away they don’t play The takeoffs are cramped why not follow that direction all crimped ends must be facing the direction of the boots only way you can get away with that is you would have to use that commercial graded tape or a caulk silver
No disrespect but all joints are meant to be sealed now so in the 80s and 90s yes but now doesnt apply but....do it right ....
Maybe there are different regulations in Canada.
he said its the return
I love how easy you make everything look....the ease of it all is even evident in your voice. It makes me feel like I can do it. :) You also give cool tricks on how to work with proper tools and without proper tools...I appreciate that. And your camera person is really good at zooming in on the right things so that we don't miss the details. I'm glad to be subscriber to your channel...my wife are learning a ton while renovating our house! Thank you from Colorado! :)
Cutting a starter hole using a razor knife and hammer at the 1:20 mark is brilliant. I did this to make a small hole for my snips, and it worked great. Saves so much time. Thanks....
Excellent video. Don't listen to the haters. This is not a space shuttle, it is a heat duct.
Thank you for sharing your time and know-how with the rest of us. Most of us really do appreciate it.
Thanks Jim, Cheers. keeping on keeping on!
First of all thanks for great guide! One thing to share regarding duct cutting tool. Best worked for me was Angle Grinder. It allowed me to cut perfectly straight lines with leaving almost no sharp obstacles and it was so easy to operate.
Do you tape all your joints with metal duct tape so as not to have any air leaks? That's what I usually do so all of the air goes inside of the room and not inside of the wall.😀
I just realized the wood size you use for the wall containing the duct is a 2"x 6". Thanks for the videos Jeff. They're very helpful. As a side note, It would be helpful if commentators posted a video response to show what they mean for any disagreements. I want to learn what they're talking about too. At any rate, I enjoy your videos. Thanks again
Wow really great job 👏 thank you for your help. I don’t need to call out side construction people. I did my self because of your video . Really I needs same problem with my basment. I did. Congratulations 👏
Hello, I'm finishing a basement and was going to just tap into the ducts that will be above the ceiling and have the boot in the ceiling. Though it would be easier, I never did understand why you would want that because heat rises and the heat wouldn't make it to the floor. Your video confirms my thought and I'll be running down the wall so the heat will be coming out close to the floor. Thanks for the video.
Cheers ken!
How do you hide that with your sheet rock?
I see it's not only me interested on how to do it on 4 inch wall, and maybe I missed it but can't find a good response. Would be great to have a separate video in it, as I've visited a few Homedepot and no one could properly explain it. In general really happy with your videos - 5 starts.
Perfect, thanks for the tips. I have a duct run on the stair landing that is not really helpful. I’m going to redirect it to the finished rece room where we are eternally cold. Will shut it off I’m summer months, ac is too aggressive. This vid really helped me. Should have it done in a couple hours tomorrow. Don’t forget to tape!
Well I didn’t wear gloves the 1st time and went to emergency because I cut myself. Now I’m watching your video for help. This is exactly what I needed. Thanks for making this video.
There sure are a ton of people on here spreading hate. Question: If you know so much about it why are you watching these videos? I know how to chew and swallow my food like a pro doesn't mean I need to watch videos of people eating and criticize how they chew. The discrepancies are negligible at best, get a life. To the creator: thanks for the video, it's helpful for getting ideas on how to address duct issues.
After installing my house's entire ducting system recently, there are some things I think I should point out that I have learned through extensive research and experiments in my home.
1. Be careful about tapping off existing ductwork. Duct work sizes are chosen based on the room dimensions and amount of times you require the air to circulate per hour. By adding another ducting branch off a main duct, you are reducing air pressure to all other rooms attached to that duct. In my case, I carefully sized my main duct based on clearance (hiding behind basement wall) and number of rooms it branches off to (and costs). It is sized JUST RIGHT. If someone down the road decided to add a duct, it would most certainly reduce pressure noticeably to all the rooms attached to it.
2. On that note, you need to also be judicious on where your tap is on the main duct. Having two duct branches too close to one another kills the pressure because it looks like one giant branch. Airflow follows the path of least resistance. If the furnace's output CFM isn't high enough, all of the air will flow out this "giant branch" and pressure will never build to vent to the other rooms. Vent size vs airflow is NOT a linear relationship!!
3. In the video, he mentions reducing to 5" to increase pressure. While this is true, it also kills the AMOUNT of air getting into the room (measured in CFM). The size of the duct should be dictated by the dimensions of the room and how quickly you want the air to by cycled. As a general rule of thumb, a 6" round duct carries 100 cfm of air (if there aren't a ton of bends and inefficiencies). Reducing to 5" reduces the airflow to 60 cfm! 40% loss! The air will indeed leave the duct at a higher velocity, but it is likely that you wont get ENOUGH air to effectively heat the room at the speed you want! Quantity is more important than velocity IMO. If the vent is outputting a large amount of air, that air WILL fill the entire room. You don't need velocity for this to happen if the CFM is high enough.
4. All ducts should be SEALED! The best way is by using mastic sealant, but you can also use tape (NOT duct tape, but the shiny foil tape meant to seal ducts). Having the leaks in joints will reduce air pressure and waste energy.
5. (not as important as the previous 4) If you are installing a supply vent, you also need to make sure the return vent first off, exists, and second, is large enough to accommodate the added air supply. If this isn't done, air pressure in the room will increase which will make it hard for the furnace to pump in more air, and will squeeze the hot air out of the room to the easiest path of flow (which is likely through the exterior wall).
Good read. Thanks for the tips. I'm doing the same and trying to save cash by DIY. Do you have any recommendations where I can read up on the basics?
great info. thanks for posting these details about quantity (volume) vs velocity (cfm). this answers a few of my questions in regards to some duct changes that I just made on the weekend. my finished rec room in the basement is about 14' x 46' and there were 3 x 5" pipe 4" x10" ducts feeding the room about 6' off the floor (or, only about 3' from the ceiling). all 3 are on one side of the room (on the long wall). in between two of the ducts are stairs leading up to the main floor. I'm not sure why they were done this way as what seems like almost all of the warm air entering the room vacates up the stairwell immediately. there is only ONE cold air return 14"x 6" for this entire room (near the bottom of the stairwell).
I modified 2 of the accessible ducts (from an unfinished storage area) and extended them down to enter the room about 8" off the floor, reducing the 5" pipe to a 4" in 4" x 10" 90 outlets. thinking it would force more air out (as theory would suggest) now seems like the warm air just trickles out the two vents. I'll be changing the 90's to 5" and hope that helps less restriction of the outlets.
these two ducts I modified are literally only 16' and 24' from the furnace (if measuring along the main heating duct). there are a few ducts that lead elsewhere onto the main or upper floors that do not have dampers installed off of this main duct. I'll be adding dampers to reduce output to those vents as well. hopefully, this helps with the volume of warm air making it's way into this room. it's the room we spend most of our time in during evenings (home theatre type setup).
should my cold air return be larger as well ??
Thank you! Nice basic intro for those of us who've never done this before, but have some DIY skills.
All these professional HVAC guys on here and your the only video that comes up when you type "installing floor registers in basement" To all HVAC on here, put up or shut up. Great video by the way, your gonna save me a ton of cash.
Thanks Corey, you know the way they carry on you would think it was rocket science.
Pretty sure you aren't supposed to put heat registers to the floor in a basement. If the basement is finished add a cold air return at floor level. That will increase the airflow around the room and pull the hot air down.
Heat doesn't like to be pushed down. It naturally rises. Just feel the difference between a register in the cieling in the basement and the floor.
They leave the registers at the top because it is where they belong in the basement.
My friend you did everything wrong and im not an expert
I disagree. Obviously, negative feedback on instructional content like this is at least as valuable as the content itself. This video is a fascinating example of that.
@@miguelh.maci1148 Thanks for clearing that all up for us. *rolls eyes*
I always love your instructions... really easy to follow what youre saying. It's a bonus that you are in my city so you know what it's like dealing with our seasons and temps. Keep up the great work and advice
Cheers to Ottawa!
Only thing I would add is seal the joints! Love the videos
With all the fires in California it would be great it you did a segment on DIY furnace and duct cleaning. The Camp fire added pounds of dust to my furnace that was dust free 5 months ago. Most people hit hard by the fires could use your help.Any leg up to save money would be wonderful.
Looks and sounds horrific out there. Not sure about how much help I can be pertaining to remediation but if anyone has specific wuestions I will be glad to help any way I can.
I'm a good DIY'er finishing my basement and this was a GREAT video. Exactly what I needed to know to add 4 heat vents and a couple of return air ducts. Thank you !!!!
Cheers Rob. !
YOU SAVED MY HIDE my friend ... this is exactly what I needed to do in the basement . THANK YOU for putting in a simple and easy video ... nice little jack with the knife 🔪 to cut into the existing duct ... worked like a charm !
Should you have the air return on the floor level also (pull out the low cold air)? I notice that my returns are on the floor in my living room, but high in the bedrooms. Maybe this will make a great video?! Thanks again for all your videos
I just needed this! Thanks Jeff. I'm a member and enjoying the support.
This is really great
I just moved into a new house with roomies and found the basement much more suited for me to sleep and have all my stuff in one place. But after my first night noticed there are no vents down there. So this will help me stay warn this winter.
Great video. Thanks so much. Here in Canada taking the heat down to floor level will make a huge difference. If viewers can bring down existing basement ceiling heat runs, it should not change the balance much. Start there with those if possible..Then when adding completely newly tapped ones , like this, you may want extra cold air return volume at floor level to balance the additional outflow. That will get the heat moving across that cold floor. DIYers should always wear gloves and safety glasses for this (I am sure the presenter would normally do so ...wink wink). You are a really nice guy ...so you can always add a small text overlay at the beginning of these videos mentioning Safety precaution. It could save someone's eyesight and nerve damage in a hand...really Again. Excellent easy upgrade that can make a HUGE difference to your basement comfort. So I want to say thanks because it's easy to be an armchair critic, but putting this video together is a lot of work and a big help...so thanks again.
Great Job! Your demonstration really helped me understand how to cut & fit ductwork together...awesome! Thanks for posting!
Our pleasure. Cheers!
May not be a perfect answer, but it'll get me heat for now. I can have a professional revise it when I am ready to finish the basement. Right now I just need some heat, hack job or no, THANK YOU.
You always come to the rescue. Thank you for what you do!
Wow wow Wow!!!! Thank you so much. I'm struggling with my basement renovation. Of course, this is solo Lol. No heat and this is perfect.
A suggestion if you haven't already. How to tile a curved wall. If there's space in the corners, how to fix that. Thanks! Love the videos
Thanks for the guide. This helps me a lot. I would, however, place the crimps in the direction of the airflow to minimize loss of air pressure and maximize my heating. Thank you.
Cheers!
And that's why they are called "tin knockers"
Great work. But like many have said. "Crimps should go with the flow" same as with plumbing.. reducing to 4 inch does not increase air flow, just minimize what's being drawn from lines.. thanks for the video.. Lil recommendation - when hit with a negative comment just reply "thanks for watching" it's polite and tongue and cheek cuz you got their view
The point of reducing the duct size is to increase pressure so the heat exits the line at a greater speed so it crawls along the floor into the room before rising. Not to increase the amount of air.
Very nice video always use three screw not two thanks
Great video! I’d love to see a video on how to reroute 1 or more air returns in a wall you want to take out.
Jeff, do you have any videos on proper cold air return placement and install? I’m needing to add some in some finished walls. Looking for guidance.
1000% agreed with Arnold. Next video
You are amazing sir...just saved me a ton of cutting...thanks Gary from Almonte
Very helpful thank you. How would you do an air return on that same system when the return is on the opposite side of the heat run?
It's why you put Returns in each room to pull the heat from the ceiling ... circulation is key...
Thanks ODB! This is a very helpful video. I’m planning to finish my basement and bring a heat run near the floor. Could I do that along the exterior concrete wall or do I need to frame out space for it after the barriers and insulation?
Great and helpful videos Jeff. I was wondering....should the cold air return also be ran to ground level in a basement?
definitely! as close to the floor as possible.
Great idea for our cold Ottawa basements Jeff, thank you! I guess that in order to do this you will need 2x6 framing, right? Or, perhaps an unfinished space behind the wall if 2x4 framing. Also, at the ceiling I guess this will result in a wider bulkhead because can’t run the pipe through the top plate?
I try to use storage rooms and mechanical room walls first. Then if necessary I will build a box if \i don't have a 2x6 wall
Can you do another air duct video by chance? Need some help with th at kind of stuff. Like maybe the proper way to fix holes in duct work etc. Your videos are super helpful
David Conran how big is the hole? Buy sheet metal and make a patch. Or buy some mastic or silver tape
Thanks a lot for all the educational videos! these are really informative!! Do you also provide reference for contractors in US?
very informative video. Can you please make a video on how to relocate old 80% furnace with a new high efficiency furnace? thank you
Finally, I found a presentation what these 3-blade metal snippers are good for. :) I knew but knowing and seeing it are 2 different things. :) Thanks.
AKA "double cuts". The power tool version, Milwaukee sheet metal shears, many other brands too.
This may have been covered but would it be good to be sealing all the joints to help with efficiency and pressure? I like the mastic grey sealant I am seeing in my new house.
Yes it would. However if it leaks it’s just into the basement anyway. If it’s in an unconditioned space it’s a big issue. No duct tape for ducts. .use mastic.
I use a cordless grinder with metal cutting wheel for precision and quick cutting!!!
Very informative video! Do you know if you have to add a zone and wire an additional thermostat? I was thinking of adding two duct runs off my existing duct work in my basement.
Also, is it basically the same concept for tapping into the cold air return?
Thank you for the video!
Thank you for making it look so easy and doable! 👍🏻👍🏻
When you add a heat duct do you have to cut on top and side only is it possible to cut from underneath as this will work awesome for my application
Awesome video. One question. I see you there is insulation between the wire and the duct. Is it needed? Can a 14/2 touch the ac/heating duct when wiring for lights?
Do you need a intake in the basement? How does the air circulate if the door is closed?
What about sealing the joints in your ducting. Best practice would be to use joint sealer or metal tape even if this was in a conditioned area. Great videos. Suggest talking about HVAC sizing as it relates to basements.
Thanks Kyle, taping joints is optional. It is an expensive way to boost 2% eficiency
Home RenoVision DIY Awesome. Thank You so much. I’ve been researching local Lowe’s, Menards, and also Menards around me for the bottom exit air part that you screwed in on top of the 2x4. What’s the actual name of the part where the air comes out of it? I’ve been typing in,”heating ducts and not getting anywhere. I’m at this part now before my Insulation. I could really use your help again. Please help.
Btw. You have the best step x are hands on videos out. You not only explain in limens terms, but you also show us as well. Can’t beat that. Please keep these kind of videos coming. I’ve done a lot of diy projects with your help. Thanks so much.
Cheers.
It is called a boot! they should be available everywhere. Cheers!
Prolly look up 4x10x4 elbow boot or 90 boot
Or whatever size you're using I should add
Hello Jeff,
Where did you buy the 5 inch side take off mentioned in your video. Can’t find it anywhere. Thanks keep on DIY🇨🇦🇨🇦
Really well , done and informative video - thank you and the helpful comments about airflow
i would like to see a video of how you put in a duct work assembly for underneath a vanity where you install the outlet on the kick plate...thanks, Mike
I would like to see this too. Heat exhaust on the vanity kick plate.
Is that a 2x6 wall? Is that the only dimension wall you can do this in? What about an exsisting basement reno in a 2x4 wall
So I’m looking to buy a home only problem is it has the old radiator heaters, if you get a chance of install and ducting and removal of old furnace that would be awesome!
Awesome guide, Jeff! I have a 700 square foot basement, so should I have 2 heat runs and an air return? Do I want all three to be as close to the ground as I can get? Is there a trick to where the return should be located? Cheers!
Always best to have the Heat vents on the floor, then the return vent on the ceiling. And have them separated across the room, that way, air has to circulate from the floor of one side, to the ceiling on the opposite side, which is essentially making air flow through the entire room. Hope this helps.
Something something. Direction of airflow. Some other thing. crimp. Yet, somehow, this was super helpful. Thanks!
From someone in the HVAC business, definitely would have done this very differently.. For example... Don't need self taps for light gauge duct, 3 minimum, half inch will do the job..
Your videos are helping me plan, frame, heat, and finish my basement! Keep up the good videos.
Cheers Ken.
Hoping that you featured on your video about window AC to central AC to a old townhouse,thank you
I always enjoy your videos. Very informative and precise. Can you suggest what to put over the concrete floor in the basement so it is not cold. I am planning to use laminate flooring.
All crimps go in the direction of airflow By doing it in the opposite direction you are creating static pressure ,resistance,
From CEO of a Htg & A/C corporation
Thanks Arnold, most likely the CEO of 1
He's right though. You could have just crimped the reducer instead of double crimping so much pipe lol funny video though
probably the CEO of 0.lol aka no body.
he should have just crimped the reducer and flipped the angle the right way, and he wouldn't have had to crimp anything else.
it`s just a residential heater with small psi not a jet engine so how much resistance are u creating in that mm space nothing, the guy is trying to help that`s all.
Is there a way to keep the connections following the flow of air? I mean from the plenum each pipe or fitting goes INSIDE the next one, so that the air is not impeded or lost due to the projections inside.
How about using a register booster while still keeping it in the ceiling?? Pro’s/cons??
That will work, just make sure the cold air return is at the floor. Cheers!
Could you do this if your studs are 2x4s rather than 2x6s?
Really like your video. I had my old ducts removed from a 1930 home. It's amazing that back then they insulated the ducts with esbestos but put no insulation in the walls - at all! Lol
I am insulating my upstairs as in the winter your nose freezes and the furnace comes on every 3 seconds. I and was thinking of adding air returns to the upper level.
The rooms are 8x9, 12x11 and 12x 14 plus a small bathroom. What size supply and should I run a return? I have the plaster off so bows the time.
Let me know what you think.
Great video. Loved it.
First a a930's home has a ton of bad insulation spaces. I would run a 5" line with return to each room and balance the rooms with the floor reegister closing mechanism. That is where you have your most control. Best to make sure you have adequate supply and then it is easy to turn it down from there.
Do the connections get sealed, i.e. duct tape or mastic? Thanks.
yes
this is for one vent, if i want to create multiple vents, would i make another hole in the main duct or can i make a hole through the extension i created
I am not able to find any HRV installation video on your channel.
I am getting my basement started as secondary suite, inspired from your video. I need to have a separate heating for the suite by law either new furnace or HRV with Baseboard heater. I need to know how I can install HRV and do the runs for fresh and stall air between rooms and how to measure heating for each room and connected to one controller.
Thanks,
Time to make a phone call. Otherwise you will never pass inspection. there is a lot of math you need to get right to install that type of system. Unfortunately some things are just not DIY. Cheers!
Excellent, that was exactly what I was looking for. Love the mix of you can make do with these tools and for this you need the right tool.
Good stuff! Air outlets in basement at ceiling level are almost worthless!
Nice work. When adding a takeoff, you are affecting the airflow to all other ducts throughout the house. However adding one take off would have a negligible impact, just people should know that they shouldn't add too many without redoing air flow calculations (i.e. ACCA Manual D). I also like to add mastic to all of my duct joints to limit air leakage and get air where I want it, not leaking into a bulkhead. Keep up the quality work and videos.
P.S. Please wear cut resistant gloves. Speaking from personal experience.
Most homes have never been balanced properly. All you need to do is open and close the registers to make each room comfortable.
Nice demonstration. By the way where can I find the adhesive side take-off? Anybody has any idea?
Got mine at H.D>
How many times can you tap into that hot air supply duct before the pressure is affected? I have a 30 foot long basement and the supply duct runs across it perpendicularly at ~ 8 foot mark - in order to put 3 vents in I would need 3 taps into the supply - what would be the pressure affect on the system ? Tha
Hi Jeff. I’m a member and curious if you or any other members have a fix for a vent that is short to the floor by a few inches. How do I extend a floor vent so the ductwork reaches the tile floor?
Can I cut the duct directly and put a duct ? Or will I have to keep the sleeve ?
Very good video! I'm glad to see that you put screws in between ductwork sections. However, I wonder why you don't talk about metallic tape. Do you seal the joints or do you just leave it as it is?
Also, thank you very much for the tips with those tools. I'll have to get to the hardware store to get metal crimpers, but it'll be worth it since I'll save on male-male joints.
Tape can be helpful to maximize pressure but in the end all heat radiates into the room so it depends on how much you need. If you want to spend the 10 bucks for tape then I would do it!
Since I save big bucks on installation, I can afford the few ones on the tape.
The reason why I watched your video was for the installation of an air exchanger and a range hood. For those two, I don't want any leak. The first one would leak before I reach the rooms where I want the fresh air to come out. As for the hood, I obviously don't want to get any air going out of the ductwork and get into the room.
I'm a big fan of dyi umm deff need to know if you can do this in any basement currently trying to heat my basement and dont know if I need to rework it all or just do this simple thing
This guy is the Bob Ross of home reno’s
I definitely need an Afro!
throw a tree up front at the end, cause you like that sort of thing, and away you go
I’ve got a question for you. How high off of the basement floor did you install your heater vent? I don’t recall you mentioning that? I’m doing this now, and could use the advice. Thank you. I’m a huge fan and I’ve been a subscriber for some time now. Thanks again.
high enough to clear the baseboard with the vent cover. Cheers!
Home RenoVision DIY Awesome. Thank You so much. I’ve been researching local Lowe’s, Menards, and also Menards around me for the bottom exit air part that you screwed in on top of the 2x4. What’s the actual name of the part where the air comes out of it? I’ve been typing in,”heating ducts and not getting anywhere. I’m at this part now before my Insulation. I could really use your help again. Please help.
Btw. You have the best step x are hands on videos out. You not only explain in limens terms, but you also show us as well. Can’t beat that. Please keep these kind of videos coming. I’ve done a lot of diy projects with your help. Thanks so much.
Cheers.
Home RenoVision DIY Awesome. Thank You so much. I’ve been researching local Lowe’s, Menards, and also Menards around me for the bottom exit air part that you screwed in on top of the 2x4. What’s the actual name of the part where the air comes out of it? I’ve been typing in,”heating ducts and not getting anywhere. I’m at this part now before my Insulation. I could really use your help again. Please help.
Btw. You have the best step x are hands on videos out. You not only explain in limens terms, but you also show us as well. Can’t beat that. Please keep these kind of videos coming. I’ve done a lot of diy projects with your help. Thanks so much.
Cheers.
What kind of screws do u buy at homedepot to connect the round duct together?
Hello great explaining video, do most of the duct for homes are 5 inches? thanks
Yes they are! on longer runs they may be 6 and on short runs sometimes 4 if close to the furnace. Cheers!
I don't have the metal duct work instead it's an insulated duct work. Does this cut just as easily or is it metal underneath it? Thanks!
Finishing my basement, wanting to relocate cold air return that is in stair well to the basement. Currently no cold air return in basement. I've read about back drafting and causing system imbalance if not done right. I plan on running heat ducts to floor. Can you provide any insight?
Love your videos btw!
Can you use 6inch supply pipes for the basement?
Will you tape the seams?
Would you remove the one's from the ceiling or would you ever just redirect them to the floor or do they have to stay?
Question, how about air return? Can it be close to the ceiling and hot air close to the floor? How about vice versa? Like hot air at the ceiling and return close to floor? Which option is best? Thanks
Do you completely cut the metal out of the duct hole or do you fold it in on the top?
Great, but do you do for 2x4” walls ?
Good info for sure. I'll hop on the tape bandwagon though. Doesn't cost that much for peace of mind and best practice.
Just be careful to use the tape tool for flattening so that you don't slice your hand open to save a buck.
You mean gloves?
More like a rubber 4 " squeegee or the back of a knife.
How do we know that the HVAC can handle the additional load of a couple of extra heating outlets?
I have the same question.
Brilliant idea to increase air pressure.
Hi from the GTA - do i need to start with 5" and reduce it to 4" or can I start with a 4" take-off and skip the reducer?
At 2:19 you didn't worry about rounding the hole? Is that okay for a return?