How to install a duct takeoff start collar-The Sheet Metal Kid
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- To install a duct start collar you need to first cut your hole in the duct and simply bend every 4th tab on the duct start collar then insert your start collar into the duct, and simply fold the remaining tabs over on the inside of the ducting.
Visit my "how to cut a round hole" video to become an expert!
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The Sheet Metal Kid channel consists of how to's and tutorials on how to use HVAC and sheet metal hand tools as well as how to install duct and ventilation correctly. We are a highly interactive channel to help you with all your sheet metal and ducting installation.
I am DIYer with absolutely no training in anything. My house is almost 40yrs old and the existing ducting in the attic had to be almost that old as well. After ripping it all out I realized that the piece I needed didn't exist. Thanks to your videos I was able to fabricate the piece I needed and redo all of my ducting to modern code. Thank you very much!
AWESOME! Love to hear stories like this!
You just gotta love the duck butter. LMAO! I like the oil based duck-butter because it makes a better seal and will cure whether it is hot or cold.
Thanks a lot. I was able to add an extension just by looking these great videos, God bless your amazing knowledge.
stick on take offs and side take offs are pretty easy cut stick zip paste done
+Dale Bartkowiak My Question is also about RTV. To help seal the flue to the inducer housing on an 80% (or it may be 85%) efficiency furnace, I'm considering "High Temperature Furnace Cement" or Red "High Temperature RTV." I'm leaning much more towards the Furnace Cement, especially because it appears the original installation used a sealant which looks as though it resembles cement. But, on RUclips, at least two professionals have touted High Temp RTV for exhaust flues. I'm hoping you might chime in with what you would use.
I do not have an opinion, haven't done enough or studied results on this
Thanks for the great tips kid! Just what I needed to know.
I have a older house and I have to replace the ductwork because it has rusted out and someone fell threw it so it really just ripped it off and needs replaced. I have found since the hole is so big at 12 by 9 that I cant find anything and any hardware stores to fit it and im left to fabricate something on my own. Now I know you cant get back in the time I will need it, but im sure it would be helpful to future people with this problem if you could do a video on how to fabricate such a thing for this problem. This to me seems to be the start of it, I just don't work with sheet metal and don't know what tools to use to even start to make it or where to cut and make bends, especially when I have no tools to bend it
+NotoriousNUGS so what did you end up doing? in optimizing my ductwork, i covered many oddball holes with sheet metal (glued and screwed), then cut new holes in that. i didn't buy a roll of sheet metal either, because that's too costly. i simply bought a 1/2 of a fairly large rectangular duct and cut it up, probably cost $5 and went very far for patch work.
icawn I ended up throwin it back up there put screws where I could and duct tape. wallah fixed lol
Great job exactly what I need thank you for your information
I'm basically a full time.duct sealer don't mind it tho
weren't we all at one time?
Just started working on this trade
Hi, is it possible to install a takeoff onto a larger round supply feed? I don't know the diameter, but it's huuuuuuge. Is there a takeoff collar that works with this or anything different need to happen? Thanks for your videos.
Yes, look on my website for saddle taps. I carry a 6" on 18" there thesheetmetalkid.com/saddle-taps/
Jason E do you mean that the opening is larger than the takeoff? There are two quick solutions. First, you can patch the opening, allowing you to cut the correct sized opening that corresponds with your tap, or takeoff, as it is also referred. Second, you could install a larger takeoff to match the original opening. Once that is installed, you can attach a reducer which can be made or purchased. For example, if the larger takeoff is ten inches, but you need it to be six inches, then you would purchase a reducer that measures ten inch round on one end to a six inch round on the other end. There is a principle of volume and air restriction, but in this case, it will not have a negative effect on your airflow.
Jason E a saddle tap will only work on round duct. There are also boot taps, which allow a great deal of air flow, but again, you would still have to accommodate for your original opening. A boot tap for example, a six inch round, will usually measure 12x6 ( rectangular opening) on one end to a six inch round on the other. If you do use a boot tap, remember to face the tapered end toward your unit; the flat end toward the downstream of airflow.
Does it get brittle over time?
+StockVideoFootage Not really, its a water based and is a pretty good adhesive.
So helpful! Thanks!!
Thanks for watching Christy!
Great Video. I have a question, If Im going to run 3 lengths of flex of my supply trunk, is this the type of start collar i need? Thank You.
Yes these are the easiest
Just wanted to ask if you prefer the dovetail collar over the superseal start collar. Any ideas on which would be more better for longevity? thanks, and great video.
+Danis Lal I prefer airtite collars and screwing them in place
How do you feel about fiberglass duct boxes?
Good in some instances but not able to clean them
Recently we extended a heat line with flexible pipe but did not seal the duct collar with the water base seal. We put tape on that.
Problem is heat does not come out how heat comes out from the other vent. Any suggestions?
Put a balancing damper on the one that gets most of the heat to divert the excess to the register down the line. I sell them here thesheetmetalkid.com/hvac-dampers/
sometimes my saddles ripple on me when i tap them when screwing them in. is it a good idea to just snip to release stress points?
As long as you pooky it air tight!
A couple of zip screws would make it more professional..........
What brand of sealant do you use?
Adam King I use dp1010 95% of the time
Nice. But attention to detail. I see the hole in the collar where a damper or handle used to be. You should tape that, then paint the mastic over that. Also, using the word "pookie".. You... just might be a Union Sheetmetal Worker..??
Simply????? How do you cut the hole THAT IS WHY I OPENED THIS!!
On a different video I show how to vut a round hole. Here: ruclips.net/video/8QsiOppAU1s/видео.htmlsi=dSP7NazzVKE8aZ55
Make a double off-set using O.W.L. I dare you to try it....
Malisimo
mi dispiace,ma non sapete lavorare!!
why the hell didn't you screw the collar in? that's some half ass job man if you pull too hard on the flex the collar will come off
Nice way to demonstrate a terrible "takeoff start collar"
That really looks terrible. No offense, I just think it looks bad.
Do your best, pookie the rest!
lose the gloves it's embarrassing
+gracida6 yeah, until you've got more cuts on your hands than fingers... Come on now guy...
+Jacob Kenyon you worrying about cuts on you're finger shows you don't know the first thing about work