When I change my resin I find that filling the vessel with fresh resin then with pure water so it's about 2 inches from full of pure water, that way the riser just pushes through the resin. That may be easier than filling the vessel with resin with it in.
Interesting video. I count myself lucky as our tds reading from the tap is about 65ppm. I can get away with just using a DI resin and no RO system. I have fill the van tank up through a DI resin vessel. When it gets to about 30ppm I change the resin. Then as I use the water from the van it passes through another DI resin that polishes the water to 0ppm.
Hi Dean Some of the lads put small oil filled radiators on a very low setting in the back of the van overnight. I live in a flat so have no electric points handy to do that. So basically I’ve never done anything, and so far luckily never had any serious issues.
Interesting. I was always led to believe that I should flush (waste valve fully open) for 2 mins before every fill to flush the RO. I'm not sure about Ionics but most 10" pre filters will need changing after about 6 to 10,000 litres of water throughput. So about every month or so the carbon and pre filters should be changed - that might be why you where only getting 12 to 18 months from an RO membrane.
@@Bullyswindowcleaningclasses It's not the hardness that's destroying your membrane it's chlorine. Unless you change the carbon filter within the manufacturers usage figures chlorine will get through to the membrane and damage it. My water isn't bad at about 300tds but my membrane is now 3 years old and still 98% efficient.
When I change my resin I find that filling the vessel with fresh resin then with pure water so it's about 2 inches from full of pure water, that way the riser just pushes through the resin. That may be easier than filling the vessel with resin with it in.
I’ll have to give that a go Patrick
Thank you 🤟☀️
@@Bullyswindowcleaningclassesit works. That’s how I do it.
I’m on it Boys 🤟☀️
Interesting video.
I count myself lucky as our tds reading from the tap is about 65ppm. I can get away with just using a DI resin and no RO system. I have fill the van tank up through a DI resin vessel. When it gets to about 30ppm I change the resin. Then as I use the water from the van it passes through another DI resin that polishes the water to 0ppm.
Wow🤟☀️
Filling on the job - tried but with a lot of small jobs did give up - want to try again - any tips - thanks Deane Pulham
Hi Deane
It’s a difficult one but sounds as though you may have to bite the bullet and get a bigger Tank
Hi - tips on protecting filters during winter? Thanks Deane Pulham
Hi Dean
Some of the lads put small oil filled radiators on a very low setting in the back of the van overnight.
I live in a flat so have no electric points handy to do that.
So basically I’ve never done anything, and so far luckily never had any serious issues.
Interesting. I was always led to believe that I should flush (waste valve fully open) for 2 mins before every fill to flush the RO. I'm not sure about Ionics but most 10" pre filters will need changing after about 6 to 10,000 litres of water throughput. So about every month or so the carbon and pre filters should be changed - that might be why you where only getting 12 to 18 months from an RO membrane.
We have quite hard water down here Ched🤟☀️🥛
@@Bullyswindowcleaningclasses It's not the hardness that's destroying your membrane it's chlorine. Unless you change the carbon filter within the manufacturers usage figures chlorine will get through to the membrane and damage it. My water isn't bad at about 300tds but my membrane is now 3 years old and still 98% efficient.
@@ched999uk That’s bloody awesome 👍