Crazy you are the only one in 1000 videos I've watched on plumbing that has mentioned how to measure 1/4 per foot on a level. quarter bubble. seems simple, and I guessed that is what it was, but honestly this has been a mystery to this DIYer until today. Excellent walk through. I'm subbing
Finally, real plumber showing it how it really is. That is how it is done Ladies and Gentlemen. Plumbers get dirty. Their expensive tools look like 10 years old - one day after they bought them. There is no glamour in plumbing. Just a hard work. That's why they get paid big bucks. Thank you for showing to all those RUclips "plumbers" how it is really done ! Bravo !!
Okay I have definitely subscribed to this guy he seems to be one of the best teachers out there there's a lot of good plumbers out there but they're teaching skills are minimal yeah the explanations here are what fits into my head anyway much appreciated
Good job, from a fellow plumber. Suggestion you could put a 3"x2"wye fitting with a 2" street 1/8 bend on the main run to your toilet, in front of the toilet and continue the 2" run up into the wall making the system a combination waste and vent which would allow you to have a better venting system.
This is such a GREAT amount of expertise that Marlin's sharing here. I can personally attest that Marlin and his plumbing team with J&RS exceeded my expectations when they completed my bathroom job last week.
@@jrsbuild im confused wheres the vent for the toilet?? wish backed off cameras to see whole thing, so how far away is vent for toilet from toilet?? im trying to do similar thing but less space.
Great video! I wish they were all like this. Here is a young man, and I don't mean that in a patronizing way, who really knows his stuff, and he's able to explain each step of the job in a very clear way. I wish all tradespeople had that ability. We need young blood in the trades, and if all of the new people coming are like Martin, they we've got nothing to worry about.
Good video with lots of helpful info. Great job and don’t let any know it all haters discourage you. Thanks for keep our trade going on the right direction!
Great job young man👍 if I had 4 plumbers like you I would not be retiring after 40 years of commercial plumbing. Finding good plumbers in Texas is the hard part.
I learned more from this than much of what I've looked at. Also, the wet vent arrangement for the shower was interesting, but this tutorial shows some practical plumbing techniques when you're installing underground.
I liked your in depth description of what you are doing!! Here in the St Louis Mo area you can only feed two fixtures off a 1/2" wtr line...I prefer copper but I realize it's expensive! and I agree that purple primer is messy but some inspectors want to see that you've used it so expose it a little bit out of the joint! I like how you're concerned/conscientious about the fall/pitch on drains ! Good job overall 👍I added my subscription! Keep up the good work!
If you look at the code book the fixture count for 1/2 is there. Two fixture is some kind of lacking in education quote. Also the purple primer is use for a reason with pvc dwv. Another perosn lacking in an eduction.
Only two fixture on half inch cold period. Maybe not in your area but generally you must feed a bath with 3/4. cold side is two fixtures off the 1/2 half inch cold.
@@larrymarcum1673 Depends on the water pressure, size of line feeding meter, and total distance for the water line. I have the chart in my UPC code book. 1/2" can do 6-7 fixture units. 6 if 40ft or less, 3/4" meter, and psi between 30-45. 7 FU's if 3/4" meter, no longer than 60ft, and psi between 46 and up. That's 7 lavs or 3 showers and a lav or 2 water closet with 1.28 gravity tank and a shower. Point being is you can do more than 2 FU or I don't know if you mean just any 2 random fixtures, but still not correct.
I’ve watched over a dozen plumbing 101 videos for my project and none of them mentioned some of the things I learned in your video! I’m so glad I watched your video before making those mistakes! Great job and thank you!
I really enjoyed this video! You gave a very good detailed explanation of the plumbing system. I have done plumbing for years and I enjoyed watching this. I noticed you even used some of the terminology I don’t hear a lot of other plumbers say, like “grade”. Most call it pitch, fall or something else. My dad taught me that terminology and I never strayed from it. Anyhow, you’re doing well young man! Keep it up! Chad SC
Sweet video! I just finished the rough in for the eye doctor here in Kotzebue. I spent 14 hours on it and made $1500 bucks. The system I installed previously included water and the longest in-wall satellite wet vent I've ever built. The kitchen was 27 feet from the bathroom. I didn't have room in the attic to do a roof penetration.
This is a great trade to be in and you seem to be learning alot in the plumbing trade, I personally make my vanity drains around 18" and my supply lines around 3" higher not lower but I've ran across supply lines lower every once in a while. Some inspectors will turn one down in my area for doing it that way but some want. But overall great video and I hope you continue making videos this is the first time I've seen you on plumbing Videos I'll continue looking And thanks.
When I was a rookie green apprentice plumber I would always use my speed level on every ince of pipe. 45 years later its just eyeball level. I'm so proud of thus young man's skill level. We need more young Americans kids in the trade. Here's my observations about running water lines in 2x4s. Always center your hole in the lumber be cause the drywall guys won't be thinking about your pipes. The electrician guys has his wire dead in the center. Great job though
In my state it’s IPC so I’m trying to relate as I watch. I have almost no plumbing experience, but I’m in the process of plumbing my tiny house. Right now I regret drywalling the kitchen before installing the plumbing. Fortunately, I haven’t taped and mudded it, so I can remove it and pull the insulation to facilitate the drains, vents and water supply lines. (Using 1/2” PEX throughout the house) Since my septic system is homemade, I’m going to continue composting human waste, so basically my septic is a gray water grease trap. Only the kitchen sink, dishwasher, shower and lavatory will empty into the septic. Thanks for this video.
13:23 ...hard to follow. I think you're talking about the pipe that runs parallel to and inside the wall, between the stack and the 90° elbow that turns the run perpendicular out of the wall. ...to run it from the center of the stack an inch or two past where the center of the sink falls on the wall. And the reason being is because it's easier to backtrack a trap than it is to extend it further to reach the center of the sink.
You're awesome, I own big d's plumbing in Medford Oregon, And you're the most knowledgeable person I have listened to, And the youngest out of the bunch, Keep it up,
I like doing a clean job with the primer and glue, but I've found some City Inspectors want to see that purple primer and glue. It's the only way they can tell if you used primer and the proper glue. How can you tell if the joint is glued with clear glue?
Great question! When you glue right after priming a fitting, it creates a light purple color. and since I have a great relationship with the inspectors, they know I wouldn't be cutting corners like that.
When you know how to properly prime and glue,you don't tend to have issues. When you test it,then you will know. You don't even need primer on waste pipe because there is no pressure pushing on the joints. I personally use primer but you don't need to if you bevel your pipe ends and the pipe is clean.
@@daddy1571 I do commercial plumbing, I go by what ever the specs call for or what the City Inspector wants to see. For small jobs I use Red Hot Blue glue. No primer needed.
@@rudedogii I hate hot blue glue! It works good but I hate how it hydraulics out of the fitting. Weld-On medium bodied grey glue works the most consistently for me . It's the kind you want on a rainy top out or underground. I use clear primer. It doesn't push apart like the blue glue can.
@@daddy1571 stop telling people not to prime. You are a hack and a half. Primer is very important part of the process. No primer it does not work. I have seen so many failures from hacks like you. You are the reason why purple primer became code otherwise we still could use clear.
excellent, one note to add, my inspector wanted to see the primer to verify it was used because a common mistake is that some DIY will not use primer or will use none primer glue which will always leak on (PVC) Always show your primer on rough-in work. also no need to show pipe ID numbers facing up, Inspectors can find them, (California)
Thanks for the feedback! We are always trying to improve. We didn't touch on fire caulking because this is not required on this residential project. Maybe in another video we will be able to touch on this.
Removing the rough inner (and outer) pipe edge is great advice but you should use a proper deburring tool. It's quick, simple and leaves a smooth, inner beveled edge that guarantees nothing rough remains from the pipe cut to catch debris and build up clogs.
Great video - very helpful. Question: I've never heard of the problem of stress on the fitting barb due to running the pex too close to the stop. I haven't use crimp-style Pex before so I am asking just to find out. How real of a problem is this?
thanks for all details! single vent size, sink pipe size and hole? I see you get two hole son one stud so it has no strength right? pipe shall to the end of the stop line, than clamp 1/8" from the end.
Great video! Excellent teaching tool. A question I have with venting. I'm looking at venting a new install toilet and vanity only in basement. Could I tap into 2" kitchen drain from next floor above as a wet vent? Kitchen drain is used for kitchen sink and dishwasher only, then through the roof.
No, what you are referring too is called muti story wet venting and has its own restrictions. You cannot wet vent a bathroom group with a multi story wet vent, they are typically used only for stacked kitchens in a condo and even then are not ideal
Just found this video, very interesting. But I have a question though: I see the main drain, for the toilet, is running underneath where you are putting the double lav. So, why did you not ty into that drain straight away instead of doing difficult and putting in a double y where the shower goes into the main drain? I am not a plumber, obviously, but this seemed a but weird to me. Thanks.
Yes, we could tie directly into the main for the lav, but we would have to individually vent the rest of the bathroom fixtures then. That is usually how it'd be done. The purpose of this video is to vent this bathroom with one vent.
Great question! Stubbing out slightly off center (left or right) will make the trap swing to the sink drain tailpiece. This will give more room for the trap kit in case the drain outlet on the bowl lands to close to the back of the cabinet. Another thing I didn't mention in the video is that you want to be off center for the drain trip lever rod so it doesn't hit your drain when operating. 🙌
I’m a journeymen is both Idaho and Washington which both go off upc code. Idaho has an addendum that the toilet must be the first fixture on a horizontal wet vent. That aside upc allows one fixture before the toilet on a horizontal wet vent. Unless Minnesota has a separate addendum that toilet technically has no vent. Will it work probably but with it coming out of the top of the wye it’s not part of the wet vented branch. I’ve never seen a diagram that would allow that. Also (again unless Minnesota has an addendum for the toilet being a clean out) there needs to be a full size end of the run clean out. If you want to get really slick with it you could run two full bathrooms with one vent using circuit venting. It gets tricky with long runs keeping your standpipe within 24”. I ran a system on a house where every possible fixture that could be circuit vents was circuit vented. Two bathtubs two toilets and a shower. Everything else was vented on tees in the wall.
Hmm, do you have a reference for that Idaho addendum? Sounds wrong since UPC REQUIRES toilet to be last (downstream) on any wet vent (908.2.4). Also you misunderstood UPC to say only one fixture before toilet on a wet vent, when it actually says only one fixture before the dry vented fixture drain (908.2.1). Also by saying the toilet technically has no vent, you are really not understanding what part of the drain is the wet vent. His toilet is perfectly vented per UPC 908.2
Did you use a 4x3 90? Why did you use that fitting?. Is that required in your area? In my area 3" is more then enough, seeing that the outlet of a toilet is only 2 1/2"
Great question! In this case there was an attic directly above the bathroom, and in our climate that would be problematic due to the extreme cold we get in Northern Minnesota. Since the floor was already open for drains it was a no brainer to lay them in the trench.
This was an awesome tutorial and very well broken down in the most detailed way but unfortunately when you try to compensate for the next trade behind you by going off the original blueprint plans for a project just b/c you are considering the next man and his duties it 9 x's out of 10 blows up in your face for not following plan directions on a jobsite. Very informational and I myself always think the same way also. Unfortunately Plans are Plans and there's no room at all for self assuming or thinking about if a cabinet or drain comes in to close or an electrical panel needs to be rerouted or reduced down. I had to learn that a few times. lol Unless this is a personal project or an approved modification per plans then great. I've thought this way plenty of times over my career but everything is a formality on a project and have to follow plans unless the alterations are approved. Great video. I definitely subscribed. Great Job buddy. We never stop learning in this trade from anyone.
Thanks, appreciate the feedback! around here a lot of the commercial remodel plumbing drawings do not have to be exact to the install because most of the firms are willing to do as-built drawings after the plumbing has been installed.
good video. That said lets talk about that clean out. I believe it is too high to qualify ( within 18" of floor) and not required by code. Not sure what the inspectors are doin to ya over there but nobody with a brain is going to empty out the top two drawers of that vanity to see if there is a clean out there. Your trap serves as rodding access. Nice looking job. They let yall put crimped pex under a slab there? (34:39) or am i seeing something else?
Pretty nice job in all, the exception would be the rubber fernco is not upc code underground within a building, as a matter of preference pex B crimp is not a quality material compared to pex A expandable in my opinion. Also I always use copper stub outs as a rule , crimp angle stops if you have to replace them you cannot without opening the wall to extend the pipe, don’t see wrap around pipe for concrete protection and don’t see any test fittings for testing the system for leaks..( must be a job without permit?)
My friend told me that for $1,000 he would teach me how to be a plumber which I thought was pretty fair but when he told me that the hot goes on the left cold is on the right and all the s*** goes downhill I thought that was a little bit expensive but I seem to learn a lot since that first lesson
Thanks for this video. I'm redoing my own basement bathroom soon which will involve redoing the drain pipes under the slab (adding shower, moving toilet and vanity). That's only part of the whole project that worries me a bit since I've never done it before and you only get one chance before it gets covered with concrete. Do you need a cleanout for the shower trap arm, or do you snake that from the shower drain if there's any blockage? I ask because that the cleanout you added doesn't allow access to the shower trap arm. I have to say the camera work in this video is pretty bad. When you're explaining stuff, the camera is usually pointed at you instead of the thing that you're explaining. It should be showing a closeup of whatever you're explaining. I also think you jumped into the details too fast at the beginning of the video. You should show an overview of the bathroom layout first so we know what you're attempting to do. But maybe you did try doing that and the camera was pointed at you the whole time so the viewer never got to see the overall layout. I don't think there was a single shot of the whole bathroom.
Just hire an actual plumber. Even if you just pay them to do only the rough in. There’s too much at risk once that concrete is poured. Otherwise you’re taking a huge gamble.
@@garycasper2929 I've definitely thought about that and I might end up doing that, but not before I've given it my best shot. I've done a lot of research and planning for this reno and I feel it's within my capabilities. If I feel like I'm in over my head, I'll back off and call a plumber.
I have two bathrooms, back to back ..... one is original and the other is currently being installed ... question ... can I tie into the original three-inch vent for everything so I have only one roof penetration? I have a raised floor and was thinking of running both toilets into the same drain /vent under the house both toilets are within 8 ft of the vent pipe
I know it def doesn’t pay as well as being a plumber especially on ur own, you should definitely consider teaching, or, even more lucrative than plumbing, your own school. Awesome videos man, and excellent to touch up on skills or learn. Do you put, or does code require, any type of plates on the face of studs? Basically to protect anything from sheet rockers or the like?
I use an old Robie chop saw for my ABS cuts and surprisingly the Deiblo blade keeps cutting wood for support blocks for at least 3 years now, nice Vid .
The wet vent serving tge sink will not serve the shower if the shower trap arm is not coming directly off the 2" wet vent. The only way to do that is to use a symmetrical wye fitting off the 3", one side going to tge oavs the ither too the shower. 2 lavs venting a w.c are 1.5 fixture units per, the shower is 1.5 also meaning 4.5 f.u draining to the wet vent which us 1.5 fu over what is allowed here ( Canadian npc )
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Crazy you are the only one in 1000 videos I've watched on plumbing that has mentioned how to measure 1/4 per foot on a level. quarter bubble. seems simple, and I guessed that is what it was, but honestly this has been a mystery to this DIYer until today. Excellent walk through. I'm subbing
A rare breed indeed. He has the end result in mind, not just his piece and screw the other trades.
Thanks Anthony, I try my best!
That young fella was really good. Great pacing, easy to follow and understand. He is a natural teacher. Great job.
Glad you enjoyed it
Well done young man! I'm 74 years old , i like how you work!
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Thank You for not running the vent right up the middle of the vanity! You are demonstrating true “Craftsmanship”!
Yeah, not gonna lie... I was just about to do that.
I went with dual recessed medicine cabinets so had to go up the middle with the vent. Just gotta know the situation
The is the best commentary ever man nobody out there is doing such in depth step to step process explaining every bit
Thanks!
Nice to see the newer generation getting into the trades
Dang! Finally someone who not only knows what he’s doing but also well explained. Great job, thanks!
Thanks for the positive feedback Ahoda! Stay tuned for more
Excellent job at explaining the details of rough-in plumbing for a bathroom! Best RUclips plumbing video I’ve seen.
Finally, real plumber showing it how it really is. That is how it is done Ladies and Gentlemen. Plumbers get dirty. Their expensive tools look like 10 years old - one day after they bought them. There is no glamour in plumbing. Just a hard work. That's why they get paid big bucks. Thank you for showing to all those RUclips "plumbers" how it is really done ! Bravo !!
Okay I have definitely subscribed to this guy he seems to be one of the best teachers out there there's a lot of good plumbers out there but they're teaching skills are minimal yeah the explanations here are what fits into my head anyway much appreciated
Awesome feedback! it means a lot! stay tuned for more!
Good job, from a fellow plumber. Suggestion you could put a 3"x2"wye fitting with a 2" street 1/8 bend on the main run to your toilet, in front of the toilet and continue the 2" run up into the wall making the system a combination waste and vent which would allow you to have a better venting system.
Why is it called a wye fitting and not a Y fitting?
@@JustinMentionedIt
Because that's how they spell it
Wet vent
This is such a GREAT amount of expertise that Marlin's sharing here. I can personally attest that Marlin and his plumbing team with J&RS exceeded my expectations when they completed my bathroom job last week.
Thanks for the positive feedback! We are glad to have provided a great experience!
@@jrsbuild im confused wheres the vent for the toilet?? wish backed off cameras to see whole thing, so how far away is vent for toilet from toilet?? im trying to do similar thing but less space.
At 21:42 we go over this. Hopefully, this answers your question!
ĺĺĺ
Great explanation of every detail good job!! Thanks a lot for sharing your experience. I hope to see more of your videos.
Great video! I wish they were all like this. Here is a young man, and I don't mean that in a patronizing way, who really knows his stuff, and he's able to explain each step of the job in a very clear way. I wish all tradespeople had that ability. We need young blood in the trades, and if all of the new people coming are like Martin, they we've got nothing to worry about.
Thanks, we appreciate it! We plan to post more plumbing & HVAC videos in the future.
@@jrsbuild Oh, yeah! Keep 'em coming!
Very much appreciate how detailed your videos are, your are very knowledgeable in what you do
I appreciate that!
Good video with lots of helpful info. Great job and don’t let any know it all haters discourage you. Thanks for keep our trade going on the right direction!
Not true not a good video.
This is the best video I've seen on roughing in a bathroom. It was a huge help for me with my bathroom renovation. Thank you!!
Great job young man👍 if I had 4 plumbers like you I would not be retiring after 40 years of commercial plumbing. Finding good plumbers in Texas is the hard part.
Yes I agree! I hope more people go into plumbing!
Really fantastic detailed explanation. I've never been to plumber school but seems like this could serve as plumbing 101 at trade school.
Glad it was helpful!
I learned more from this than much of what I've looked at. Also, the wet vent arrangement for the shower was interesting, but this tutorial shows some practical plumbing techniques when you're installing underground.
Thanks for this video. You do a great job explaining things! Very professional and helpful with all the details.
I liked your in depth description of what you are doing!! Here in the St Louis Mo area you can only feed two fixtures off a 1/2" wtr line...I prefer copper but I realize it's expensive! and I agree that purple primer is messy but some inspectors want to see that you've used it so expose it a little bit out of the joint! I like how you're concerned/conscientious about the fall/pitch on drains ! Good job overall 👍I added my subscription! Keep up the good work!
What do you mean 2 fixtures on a 1/2" line? Which fixtures? A WC and a lav have very different fixture units.
I believe he means the two Lavs being on 1 1/2” wate piping
If you look at the code book the fixture count for 1/2 is there. Two fixture is some kind of lacking in education quote. Also the purple primer is use for a reason with pvc dwv. Another perosn lacking in an eduction.
Only two fixture on half inch cold period. Maybe not in your area but generally you must feed a bath with 3/4. cold side is two fixtures off the 1/2 half inch cold.
@@larrymarcum1673
Depends on the water pressure, size of line feeding meter, and total distance for the water line. I have the chart in my UPC code book. 1/2" can do 6-7 fixture units. 6 if 40ft or less, 3/4" meter, and psi between 30-45. 7 FU's if 3/4" meter, no longer than 60ft, and psi between 46 and up. That's 7 lavs or 3 showers and a lav or 2 water closet with 1.28 gravity tank and a shower. Point being is you can do more than 2 FU or I don't know if you mean just any 2 random fixtures, but still not correct.
I 've been plumbing 25yrs, good job. The only criticism I would have is where I am we use pex to copper stub outs.
I’ve watched over a dozen plumbing 101 videos for my project and none of them mentioned some of the things I learned in your video! I’m so glad I watched your video before making those mistakes! Great job and thank you!
Great to hear!
don't really want to listen to this one either. He is violating UPC code in fact wtih his horizontal wet vent theory.
@@fuckoff4581I didn't see any code violations regarding venting.
Bruhhhhh your production quality is TOP NOTCH! Awesome video.
Awesome video. You have a very good knowledge of your trade. Now I can work on my own plumbing. thanks for the explanation.
You earned it. Watched the whole video. Nice tips. Clear explanations. Thanks. Keep it up
I really enjoyed this video! You gave a very good detailed explanation of the plumbing system. I have done plumbing for years and I enjoyed watching this. I noticed you even used some of the terminology I don’t hear a lot of other plumbers say, like “grade”. Most call it pitch, fall or something else. My dad taught me that terminology and I never strayed from it.
Anyhow, you’re doing well young man! Keep it up!
Chad
SC
Thanks Chad! Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey dude, kool videos, ty for sharing, in NJ were allowed 8 feet on a trap arm for a 2 inch line, 5 feet for 1 1/2, 10 for 3 inch, 9 on a w.c
Thanks! It is interesting to hear about the different plumbing standards
Hawaii is 3’, 5’, 8’, 10’
Sweet video! I just finished the rough in for the eye doctor here in Kotzebue. I spent 14 hours on it and made $1500 bucks.
The system I installed previously included water and the longest in-wall satellite wet vent I've ever built. The kitchen was 27 feet from the bathroom. I didn't have room in the attic to do a roof penetration.
This is a great trade to be in and you seem to be learning alot in the plumbing trade, I personally make my vanity drains around 18" and my supply lines around 3" higher not lower but I've ran across supply lines lower every once in a while. Some inspectors will turn one down in my area for doing it that way but some want. But overall great video and I hope you continue making videos this is the first time I've seen you on plumbing Videos I'll continue looking
And thanks.
So at 18" on your vanity drain a would guess that you have to use a tail piece extention, correct? You don't know shxt either.
Best plumbing video I've ever seen thanks
When I was a rookie green apprentice plumber I would always use my speed level on every ince of pipe. 45 years later its just eyeball level. I'm so proud of thus young man's skill level. We need more young Americans kids in the trade. Here's my observations about running water lines in 2x4s. Always center your hole in the lumber be cause the drywall guys won't be thinking about your pipes. The electrician guys has his wire dead in the center. Great job though
In my state it’s IPC so I’m trying to relate as I watch. I have almost no plumbing experience, but I’m in the process of plumbing my tiny house. Right now I regret drywalling the kitchen before installing the plumbing. Fortunately, I haven’t taped and mudded it, so I can remove it and pull the insulation to facilitate the drains, vents and water supply lines. (Using 1/2” PEX throughout the house) Since my septic system is homemade, I’m going to continue composting human waste, so basically my septic is a gray water grease trap. Only the kitchen sink, dishwasher, shower and lavatory will empty into the septic.
Thanks for this video.
Nice job..I like expansion rings because it does not restrict flow and it holds better, because of the memory the A pex has.
Nice work and good explanation. Well above average for sure.
Thanks for all the info 🤠
You look to young, with that been said you're very talented.
Thanks again. Keep up the good work 👍👍
It's always rewarding to witness a master at his craft.
Appreciate your time and knowledge.
Mudd.
I'm in the industry. This is a good video. Thanks for the upload
Glad it was helpful!
Nice work. Great presentation. Well done
I like that you install the cleanout above the tee
Thanks!
13:23 ...hard to follow.
I think you're talking about the pipe that runs parallel to and inside the wall, between the stack and the 90° elbow that turns the run perpendicular out of the wall.
...to run it from the center of the stack an inch or two past where the center of the sink falls on the wall.
And the reason being is because it's easier to backtrack a trap than it is to extend it further to reach the center of the sink.
Is it a good idea to put a dab of exposed primer on the non-visible side of the exposed PVC so the inspector can see its been primed?
Thanks for sharing very helpful information..
Thanks man for your explanation of everything. You are great!
Glad it was helpful!
This video was very informative. Thank you very much keep them coming!
King Marlin to the rescue for sure.
You're awesome, I own big d's plumbing in Medford Oregon, And you're the most knowledgeable person I have listened to, And the youngest out of the bunch, Keep it up,
Wow, thanks!
Good job so why we have a test - tee above the sanitary tee and facing the bathroom?
Great detail and explanations. Thanks!
I like doing a clean job with the primer and glue, but I've found some City Inspectors want to see that purple primer and glue. It's the only way they can tell if you used primer and the proper glue. How can you tell if the joint is glued with clear glue?
Great question! When you glue right after priming a fitting, it creates a light purple color. and since I have a great relationship with the inspectors, they know I wouldn't be cutting corners like that.
When you know how to properly prime and glue,you don't tend to have issues. When you test it,then you will know.
You don't even need primer on waste pipe because there is no pressure pushing on the joints. I personally use primer but you don't need to if you bevel your pipe ends and the pipe is clean.
@@daddy1571 I do commercial plumbing, I go by what ever the specs call for or what the City Inspector wants to see. For small jobs I use Red Hot Blue glue. No primer needed.
@@rudedogii I hate hot blue glue! It works good but I hate how it hydraulics out of the fitting. Weld-On medium bodied grey glue works the most consistently for me . It's the kind you want on a rainy top out or underground. I use clear primer. It doesn't push apart like the blue glue can.
@@daddy1571 stop telling people not to prime. You are a hack and a half. Primer is very important part of the process. No primer it does not work. I have seen so many failures from hacks like you. You are the reason why purple primer became code otherwise we still could use clear.
Very very informative, thank you so much!
Nice explanation of every detail, very professional 🙂
Thanks!
excellent, one note to add, my inspector wanted to see the primer to verify it was used because a common mistake is that some DIY will not use primer or will use none primer glue which will always leak on (PVC) Always show your primer on rough-in work. also no need to show pipe ID numbers facing up, Inspectors can find them, (California)
Some discussion and examples of nail plates, stud guards and fire caulk would be kool good rough in
Thanks for the feedback! We are always trying to improve. We didn't touch on fire caulking because this is not required on this residential project. Maybe in another video we will be able to touch on this.
So much experience , great video
Removing the rough inner (and outer) pipe edge is great advice but you should use a proper deburring tool. It's quick, simple and leaves a smooth, inner beveled edge that guarantees nothing rough remains from the pipe cut to catch debris and build up clogs.
Or just a REED pipe cutter... usually only debur corzan (cpvc).... not abs or pvc buy hey
Superb presentation.
Alot of very important info here.Thanks.
You bet!
Outstanding instruction! Keep the videos coming
Thanks, will do!
Great video - very helpful. Question: I've never heard of the problem of stress on the fitting barb due to running the pex too close to the stop. I haven't use crimp-style Pex before so I am asking just to find out. How real of a problem is this?
He said 'Some times ya gotta touch Hog to Hog", and that my friend is why Im a Carpenter.
seriously though, Great Video. Thanks!
thanks for all details! single vent size, sink pipe size and hole? I see you get two hole son one stud so it has no strength right? pipe shall to the end of the stop line, than clamp 1/8" from the end.
Great explanation but what did you use for the drain stub outs on the double sink long sweep or 90 elbow? Thanks
Your a natural teacher
Great video! Excellent teaching tool.
A question I have with venting.
I'm looking at venting a new install toilet and vanity only in basement.
Could I tap into 2" kitchen drain from next floor above as a wet vent?
Kitchen drain is used for kitchen sink and dishwasher only, then through the roof.
NOOOOO ! Wet vents for bathroom groups ONLY !
Kitchens=grease(& laundries=lint)
No, what you are referring too is called muti story wet venting and has its own restrictions. You cannot wet vent a bathroom group with a multi story wet vent, they are typically used only for stacked kitchens in a condo and even then are not ideal
Just found this video, very interesting. But I have a question though:
I see the main drain, for the toilet, is running underneath where you are putting the double lav. So, why did you not ty into that drain straight away instead of doing difficult and putting in a double y where the shower goes into the main drain?
I am not a plumber, obviously, but this seemed a but weird to me.
Thanks.
Yes, we could tie directly into the main for the lav, but we would have to individually vent the rest of the bathroom fixtures then. That is usually how it'd be done. The purpose of this video is to vent this bathroom with one vent.
Why are you roughing in the sink traps 1-1/2 in off? Off in what direction and why?
Great question!
Stubbing out slightly off center (left or right) will make the trap swing to the sink drain tailpiece. This will give more room for the trap kit in case the drain outlet on the bowl lands to close to the back of the cabinet. Another thing I didn't mention in the video is that you want to be off center for the drain trip lever rod so it doesn't hit your drain when operating. 🙌
Did you bother to watch the video? He thoroughly explained why.
I’m a journeymen is both Idaho and Washington which both go off upc code. Idaho has an addendum that the toilet must be the first fixture on a horizontal wet vent. That aside upc allows one fixture before the toilet on a horizontal wet vent. Unless Minnesota has a separate addendum that toilet technically has no vent. Will it work probably but with it coming out of the top of the wye it’s not part of the wet vented branch. I’ve never seen a diagram that would allow that. Also (again unless Minnesota has an addendum for the toilet being a clean out) there needs to be a full size end of the run clean out. If you want to get really slick with it you could run two full bathrooms with one vent using circuit venting. It gets tricky with long runs keeping your standpipe within 24”. I ran a system on a house where every possible fixture that could be circuit vents was circuit vented. Two bathtubs two toilets and a shower. Everything else was vented on tees in the wall.
Hmm, do you have a reference for that Idaho addendum? Sounds wrong since UPC REQUIRES toilet to be last (downstream) on any wet vent (908.2.4). Also you misunderstood UPC to say only one fixture before toilet on a wet vent, when it actually says only one fixture before the dry vented fixture drain (908.2.1).
Also by saying the toilet technically has no vent, you are really not understanding what part of the drain is the wet vent. His toilet is perfectly vented per UPC 908.2
In Canada that 2” wet vent needs to be 3” all the way up to the double wye with the amount of fixtures on the wet vent .2 vanities. And a shower
This is a person who "listened" and connected all the dots.
Allllll right thanks for watching 👀
😊
Thank you Marlin! Very well done presentation. Rich
Glad you enjoyed it!
Did you use a 4x3 90? Why did you use that fitting?. Is that required in your area? In my area 3" is more then enough, seeing that the outlet of a toilet is only 2 1/2"
Great Video... was / is there a part two? Thanks
Sorry, no part two on this one, but in the future we hope to have some more plumbing content about setting fixtures!
So you are going to drop the 1/2" cold water pipe/pex into the same sand as the wet drain?
Great jobs
Why run hot and cold underground?
Why not put the waterlines in the ceiling instead of in the ground?
Great question! In this case there was an attic directly above the bathroom, and in our climate that would be problematic due to the extreme cold we get in Northern Minnesota. Since the floor was already open for drains it was a no brainer to lay them in the trench.
damnless Ferncos are legal there?
Excellent job and very thorough explanation. What would this job cost?
Thank you! The plumbing portion of this bathroom was around 5k, that includes groundwork, rough in, and fixture setting.
Wondering why you used a 4 way combo fitting. Shouldn't a 4 way san-tee be used when going from horz. to vert. with a vent above?
I just found out today from my inspector that the sanitary T is no longer allowed by code for the double sink.
Did you fernco the main line underneath?
So you can attach a sink or shower drain to a toilet drain, does all the drains end up in the same spot?
This was an awesome tutorial and very well broken down in the most detailed way but unfortunately when you try to compensate for the next trade behind you by going off the original blueprint plans for a project just b/c you are considering the next man and his duties it 9 x's out of 10 blows up in your face for not following plan directions on a jobsite. Very informational and I myself always think the same way also. Unfortunately Plans are Plans and there's no room at all for self assuming or thinking about if a cabinet or drain comes in to close or an electrical panel needs to be rerouted or reduced down. I had to learn that a few times. lol Unless this is a personal project or an approved modification per plans then great. I've thought this way plenty of times over my career but everything is a formality on a project and have to follow plans unless the alterations are approved. Great video. I definitely subscribed. Great Job buddy. We never stop learning in this trade from anyone.
Thanks, appreciate the feedback! around here a lot of the commercial remodel plumbing drawings do not have to be exact to the install because most of the firms are willing to do as-built drawings after the plumbing has been installed.
Just curious. Why run water supply in the concrete versus the wood wall studs.?
Great video, great in depth detail. Excellent video!!
Glad you liked it!
Awesome Video!
This kid is really smart.
good video. That said lets talk about that clean out. I believe it is too high to qualify ( within 18" of floor) and not required by code. Not sure what the inspectors are doin to ya over there but nobody with a brain is going to empty out the top two drawers of that vanity to see if there is a clean out there. Your trap serves as rodding access. Nice looking job. They let yall put crimped pex under a slab there? (34:39) or am i seeing something else?
Pretty nice job in all, the exception would be the rubber fernco is not upc code underground within a building, as a matter of preference pex B crimp is not a quality material compared to pex
A expandable in my opinion. Also I always use copper stub outs as a rule , crimp angle stops if you have to replace them you cannot without opening the wall to extend the pipe, don’t see wrap around pipe for concrete protection and don’t see any test fittings for testing the system for leaks..( must be a job without permit?)
My friend told me that for $1,000 he would teach me how to be a plumber which I thought was pretty fair but when he told me that the hot goes on the left cold is on the right and all the s*** goes downhill I thought that was a little bit expensive but I seem to learn a lot since that first lesson
a real good freind i wouldnt pay him go be a helper to get started
Great communication
Thanks😊
Thanks for this video. I'm redoing my own basement bathroom soon which will involve redoing the drain pipes under the slab (adding shower, moving toilet and vanity). That's only part of the whole project that worries me a bit since I've never done it before and you only get one chance before it gets covered with concrete.
Do you need a cleanout for the shower trap arm, or do you snake that from the shower drain if there's any blockage? I ask because that the cleanout you added doesn't allow access to the shower trap arm.
I have to say the camera work in this video is pretty bad. When you're explaining stuff, the camera is usually pointed at you instead of the thing that you're explaining. It should be showing a closeup of whatever you're explaining.
I also think you jumped into the details too fast at the beginning of the video. You should show an overview of the bathroom layout first so we know what you're attempting to do. But maybe you did try doing that and the camera was pointed at you the whole time so the viewer never got to see the overall layout. I don't think there was a single shot of the whole bathroom.
Just hire an actual plumber. Even if you just pay them to do only the rough in. There’s too much at risk once that concrete is poured. Otherwise you’re taking a huge gamble.
@@garycasper2929 I've definitely thought about that and I might end up doing that, but not before I've given it my best shot. I've done a lot of research and planning for this reno and I feel it's within my capabilities. If I feel like I'm in over my head, I'll back off and call a plumber.
You don't need a clean out at the shower p trap
I have two bathrooms, back to back ..... one is original and the other is currently being installed ... question ... can I tie into the original three-inch vent for everything so I have only one roof penetration?
I have a raised floor and was thinking of running both toilets into the same drain /vent under the house both toilets are within 8 ft of the vent pipe
Yes, a 3-inch is more than sufficient to vent 2 bathrooms. Keep in mind every fixture has to be vented.
Awesome 👏🏽 Awesome 👏🏽!
Thank you!! 😁
I know it def doesn’t pay as well as being a plumber especially on ur own, you should definitely consider teaching, or, even more lucrative than plumbing, your own school.
Awesome videos man, and excellent to touch up on skills or learn.
Do you put, or does code require, any type of plates on the face of studs?
Basically to protect anything from sheet rockers or the like?
I use an old Robie chop saw for my ABS cuts and surprisingly the Deiblo blade keeps cutting wood for support blocks for at least 3 years now, nice Vid .
🙌
Im learning, but why can't you run the sink lines straight down to the 3" instead of going back tieing into shower drain?
The wet vent serving tge sink will not serve the shower if the shower trap arm is not coming directly off the 2" wet vent. The only way to do that is to use a symmetrical wye fitting off the 3", one side going to tge oavs the ither too the shower. 2 lavs venting a w.c are 1.5 fixture units per, the shower is 1.5 also meaning 4.5 f.u draining to the wet vent which us 1.5 fu over what is allowed here ( Canadian npc )