Must have been some cold nights - thanks for sharing your solution. Hope Global sort out a remedial design for your filter going forward to make it easier to maintain.
There were a few a cold nights, and it took 2-3 days for the house to get back to temperature. There’s not much we can do with the filter location on this pump, but at least I now know how to get to the filter and open it. Global Energy Systems have informed me that the new and current model of our air source heat pump has been redesigned and the filter is much easier to get to. It’s great that they’ve addressed this.
I think that from the way the pump's been designed, there's no choice but for this 'main' filter to be where it is. We have got another filter, TF1, inside the house, that is effective at catching metal bits, shards and a bit of gunk. As you've said, catching it in a bucket so as not to lose glycol would be great, but from a design perspective, it's pretty hard to do because it's all very tight. The good news is that we've not had any issues, so hopefully we'll run clean again for a year or two, and we'll top up some glycol on our next maintenance.
those adjustable spanners are great as a fallback solution but you'll never regret having a set of spanners and sockets to use, it will make the job easier and stop the nut from getting rounded off over time. Thanks for the interesting vids!
Thanks for the feedback. We have a spanner that fits the nut, but it’s really big, straight’ and has a long handle, so as a result of where the nut is located along with the box and other stuff around it, when we get the spanner on there’s no leverage or space to turn it. That’s why I resorted to using the spanner we used in the video. What would work is a spanner with a short handle. Maybe I should look into that.
Just had an ashp installed to get off mains gas because it wasn’t very green heating a pool on gas, let alone our house. Very happy with it. I thought it might be helpful to say our installer added a SpiroTech MB3 magnet to the pipe work that captures any metal fragments in the water. You could fit that somewhere else that’s easier to access, no spanner’s needed to empty what’s been caught.
Yes a crazy design I would relocate the valve outside the heat pump and as you have an issue with corrosion fit a strainer with a finer filter (possibly fitted with Binder access points on either side of the strainer to measure pressure drop) so negating to have to go inside the Air con unit, I would suggest that the problem of the seemingly rust deposits be addressed, this may be due to the original fill up and pressure test, then drained down and left for a while allowing corrosion to occur (especially during summer) then the system refilled with glycol but as you had trouble with circulation Possibly from end of run radiator the water was not flowing though a high enough velocity to pick up the debris at the bottom of the radiator, but now for some reason the flow has been established and hence the resulting problem, the system has been filled with. glycol but what about corrosion inhibitor? I would suggest to have the system flushed ( in summer time otherwise you will have problems with the one that must be obeyed ). each circuit at a time as the air con plate heat exchanger is Very unforgiving with dirt in the system, and heating performance will drop, and may not be covered with warranty (yes I used to be in the Business)
Thank you for the great response and feedback. The location of the filter needs to be moved, because it’s a pain where it is. A lot to process here and raise with the manufacturer (Global Energy Systems). Thank you. Will post feedback when I get responses and develop a plan.
Truly awful positioning of the filter/junction box from a maintenance perspective. As another commenter mentions, get a proper spanner for this. The equipment supplier should provide a ring spanner of the correct size. I’m sure you did following the video, but it is worth cleaning the water and contaminants up after the repair. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Derek and for your feedback. I’ll request a spanner from the manufacturer. I have a full size spanner, but given the size of the nut and it’s location, I can get the spanner on, but can’t turn it to loosen or tighten the nut. Not a great location. Great point about the contaminants. I have starting wiping it up, because that did occur to me.
On the trap on my system (Midea not the same as yours) the cap is 15/16 or you can use a 24mm spanner. This may be completely different for the other readers here but thought it might prove useful to others.
Check the orientation of your strainer (filter) the angled part normally points down. Looked like yours was pointing up. Does the basket collect any debris? it looked clean when you pulled it out. Have you got any inhibitor in your heating system, I would be thinking about where all the debris is coming from.
Hi Nick. Yes, I did look at the Y-strainer and it is upside down. But from the way the pump has been designed it would be impossible to access the nut and filter if it was pointed down. It is weird, because in its current orientation when you open it, stuff just falls back down the pipe which is why we need to flush it. The gauze has tiny particles in it, and looks 'clean' because the corrosion and rust is very fine. I rinse it off in a bucket of water. But it's not present in massive quantities and can't really figure out why it's 'blocking' water flow. The installers added glycol to the system, which supposedly has inhibitor in it.
Thanks Shajahan. As a tip, make sure you get the contact details of your installer, so you can call them to address any issues while your equipment is under warranty.
@@MyHomeFarm I will have to contact myself as I'm the installer! Joke aside I'm sure the manufacturers will help both UK companies. I have 2 units so if one has issues I can get by with the other!
It's a good observation Dan, and it's still something that we're trying to get our head around fully. The whole issue of COP can be misleading as a metric, and having spoken to some ASHP engineers, the COP is in some cases secondary provided that the house is being heated to target temperatures within "reasonable" limits of the cited COP. Most ASHPs are tested in 'ideal' situations, and our house (with good, but not excellent insulation) will not deliver the COP that 's on the box. But it's a good point, and one that I will continue to ponder.
Our metres are in the house, near the hot water tank, and were fitted there by our installers. There could very easily be heat loss between the pump and the house, as our pump is set 20 metres away from the house. I've never questioned the location of the metres, so not sure about this. Something for me to look into. In terms of measuring temperatures, would this be the incoming and outgoing pipes? The pipes in the pump are all fully insulated, so we'd have to measure the 'exposed' pipes that are in our utility room where most of the central heating gear is.
@@MyHomeFarm also when you cleared the filter was warmer the next days so even though you got rid of debris it could have been an exposed fitting that froze without bursting .........
New house, same problem with little bits of rust repeatedly blocking the filter. Where is it coming from and how to fix it. Towel rails are metal, radiators aluminium (I know that aluminium is a metal). Where do I go from here?
It’s nuts. Who knows where it comes from? We were just patient. Months and months of cleaning, and then one day it was just clear, and it’s remained clear for almost a year now.
Hey man, have you figured out the root cause of this rust? I'm having exactly same issue in a brand new house just after 6 months of construction. The strainer filter gets clogged with small bits of rust every other week (yes, that frequent) and plumbers are unable to provide a solution. They have replaced a few rads, flushed the system, refilled glycol but it continues to happen. I'm getting crazy with this thing, I have to go out and clean this thing constantly, not sure if this is a bad design system (filter is too thin?) or the quality of materials used are rubbish...
We never got to the bottom on the source. After cleaning the filter for months and months (which was painful) we finally have a clean filter and no more corrosion. Weird that you had a power flush and it’s still dirty. Do you regularly have to refill your expansion vessel? If yes, you’re adding more oxygen to the system regularly that in turn leads to more corrosion.
@@MyHomeFarm I also don't understand how come it still having corrosion after the flushing work. I have noticed that the flushing kinda temporarily slowed down the amount of rust circulating and clogging the strainer, but I expect it to continue to happen overtime, which I don't think is any acceptable. I'm not sure if this is an issue with the quality of materials used in my rads or whether the water pump is not strong enough to overcome the resistance of flow on the strainer, when this is not completely clogged. This is incredible how unreliable this kind of system is and it doesn't tolerate any rust. It requires a lot more maintenance, getting much more expensive in the long run. We all know that rusting is inevitable but this type of metallic filter is extremely sensitive and this tiny thing causes the entire house to get cold. Very frustrating
The technician who came to sort mine out says it's excess flux (and other debris) from installation - it takes a while for it to loosen and reach the filter.
Must have been some cold nights - thanks for sharing your solution. Hope Global sort out a remedial design for your filter going forward to make it easier to maintain.
There were a few a cold nights, and it took 2-3 days for the house to get back to temperature.
There’s not much we can do with the filter location on this pump, but at least I now know how to get to the filter and open it.
Global Energy Systems have informed me that the new and current model of our air source heat pump has been redesigned and the filter is much easier to get to. It’s great that they’ve addressed this.
I think that from the way the pump's been designed, there's no choice but for this 'main' filter to be where it is. We have got another filter, TF1, inside the house, that is effective at catching metal bits, shards and a bit of gunk.
As you've said, catching it in a bucket so as not to lose glycol would be great, but from a design perspective, it's pretty hard to do because it's all very tight. The good news is that we've not had any issues, so hopefully we'll run clean again for a year or two, and we'll top up some glycol on our next maintenance.
those adjustable spanners are great as a fallback solution but you'll never regret having a set of spanners and sockets to use, it will make the job easier and stop the nut from getting rounded off over time. Thanks for the interesting vids!
Thanks for the feedback. We have a spanner that fits the nut, but it’s really big, straight’ and has a long handle, so as a result of where the nut is located along with the box and other stuff around it, when we get the spanner on there’s no leverage or space to turn it. That’s why I resorted to using the spanner we used in the video. What would work is a spanner with a short handle. Maybe I should look into that.
@@MyHomeFarm A stubby spanner would be ideal
thank you for the helpful insight into potential issues, great that you got it working.
Thanks Bob. Just another step of the learning process for us. It’s good to know how to fix and overcome such issues.
I like the idea of this. SpiroTech MB3 magnet. Will mention it when next maintenance visit
Just had an ashp installed to get off mains gas because it wasn’t very green heating a pool on gas, let alone our house. Very happy with it. I thought it might be helpful to say our installer added a SpiroTech MB3 magnet to the pipe work that captures any metal fragments in the water. You could fit that somewhere else that’s easier to access, no spanner’s needed to empty what’s been caught.
Thanks for the tip - I'll look into it. Which brand heat pump did you install?
Yes a crazy design I would relocate the valve outside the heat pump and as you have an issue with corrosion fit a strainer with a finer filter (possibly fitted with Binder access points on either side of the strainer to measure pressure drop) so negating to have to go inside the Air con unit, I would suggest that the problem of the seemingly rust deposits be addressed, this may be due to the original fill up and pressure test, then drained down and left for a while allowing corrosion to occur (especially during summer) then the system refilled with glycol but as you had trouble with circulation Possibly from end of run radiator the water was not flowing though a high enough velocity to pick up the debris at the bottom of the radiator, but now for some reason the flow has been established and hence the resulting problem, the system has been filled with. glycol but what about corrosion inhibitor? I would suggest to have the system flushed ( in summer time otherwise you will have problems with the one that must be obeyed ). each circuit at a time as the air con plate heat exchanger is Very unforgiving with dirt in the system, and heating performance will drop, and may not be covered with warranty (yes I used to be in the Business)
Thank you for the great response and feedback. The location of the filter needs to be moved, because it’s a pain where it is. A lot to process here and raise with the manufacturer (Global Energy Systems). Thank you. Will post feedback when I get responses and develop a plan.
Thank You very much!!!
You’re welcome - glad you found it helpful
Truly awful positioning of the filter/junction box from a maintenance perspective. As another commenter mentions, get a proper spanner for this. The equipment supplier should provide a ring spanner of the correct size. I’m sure you did following the video, but it is worth cleaning the water and contaminants up after the repair. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Derek and for your feedback.
I’ll request a spanner from the manufacturer. I have a full size spanner, but given the size of the nut and it’s location, I can get the spanner on, but can’t turn it to loosen or tighten the nut. Not a great location.
Great point about the contaminants. I have starting wiping it up, because that did occur to me.
On the trap on my system (Midea not the same as yours) the cap is 15/16 or you can use a 24mm spanner. This may be completely different for the other readers here but thought it might prove useful to others.
Very helpful for Midea owners. You could also leave a tip at renewableheatinghub.co.uk/forums if you get a moment.
Check the orientation of your strainer (filter) the angled part normally points down. Looked like yours was pointing up. Does the basket collect any debris? it looked clean when you pulled it out. Have you got any inhibitor in your heating system, I would be thinking about where all the debris is coming from.
Hi Nick. Yes, I did look at the Y-strainer and it is upside down. But from the way the pump has been designed it would be impossible to access the nut and filter if it was pointed down. It is weird, because in its current orientation when you open it, stuff just falls back down the pipe which is why we need to flush it.
The gauze has tiny particles in it, and looks 'clean' because the corrosion and rust is very fine. I rinse it off in a bucket of water. But it's not present in massive quantities and can't really figure out why it's 'blocking' water flow.
The installers added glycol to the system, which supposedly has inhibitor in it.
Is there flexible braided pipes in the heat pump ? Notorious for blocking up. How long has the heat pump been in?
Not sure that there is a braided flexible pipe. The heat pump is now in its third winter.
Good job! I just pray mine doesn't cause any such issue as I don't have access to help like you do. I can off course ask the manufacturer.
Thanks Shajahan. As a tip, make sure you get the contact details of your installer, so you can call them to address any issues while your equipment is under warranty.
@@MyHomeFarm I will have to contact myself as I'm the installer! Joke aside I'm sure the manufacturers will help both UK companies. I have 2 units so if one has issues I can get by with the other!
Well, that makes it super convenient then 😀
It's a good observation Dan, and it's still something that we're trying to get our head around fully. The whole issue of COP can be misleading as a metric, and having spoken to some ASHP engineers, the COP is in some cases secondary provided that the house is being heated to target temperatures within "reasonable" limits of the cited COP. Most ASHPs are tested in 'ideal' situations, and our house (with good, but not excellent insulation) will not deliver the COP that 's on the box. But it's a good point, and one that I will continue to ponder.
Our metres are in the house, near the hot water tank, and were fitted there by our installers. There could very easily be heat loss between the pump and the house, as our pump is set 20 metres away from the house. I've never questioned the location of the metres, so not sure about this. Something for me to look into.
In terms of measuring temperatures, would this be the incoming and outgoing pipes? The pipes in the pump are all fully insulated, so we'd have to measure the 'exposed' pipes that are in our utility room where most of the central heating gear is.
Why would the flow block on a very icy day. do you think that this is a coincidence.
No, there was coincidence. Just debris in system which has now been removed and no more errors.
@@MyHomeFarm assuming like you say it was coincidence why has the manufacturer made a filter the size of a knats leg?
@@MyHomeFarm also when you cleared the filter was warmer the next days so even though you got rid of debris it could have been an exposed fitting that froze without bursting .........
New house, same problem with little bits of rust repeatedly blocking the filter. Where is it coming from and how to fix it. Towel rails are metal, radiators aluminium (I know that aluminium is a metal). Where do I go from here?
It’s nuts. Who knows where it comes from? We were just patient. Months and months of cleaning, and then one day it was just clear, and it’s remained clear for almost a year now.
It's excess flux from installation. Takes a while to loosen and reach filter.
nice video thanks
Thank you Alper. Your feedback is greatly appreciated.
Hey man, have you figured out the root cause of this rust?
I'm having exactly same issue in a brand new house just after 6 months of construction. The strainer filter gets clogged with small bits of rust every other week (yes, that frequent) and plumbers are unable to provide a solution. They have replaced a few rads, flushed the system, refilled glycol but it continues to happen. I'm getting crazy with this thing, I have to go out and clean this thing constantly, not sure if this is a bad design system (filter is too thin?) or the quality of materials used are rubbish...
We never got to the bottom on the source. After cleaning the filter for months and months (which was painful) we finally have a clean filter and no more corrosion.
Weird that you had a power flush and it’s still dirty. Do you regularly have to refill your expansion vessel? If yes, you’re adding more oxygen to the system regularly that in turn leads to more corrosion.
@@MyHomeFarm I also don't understand how come it still having corrosion after the flushing work.
I have noticed that the flushing kinda temporarily slowed down the amount of rust circulating and clogging the strainer, but I expect it to continue to happen overtime, which I don't think is any acceptable. I'm not sure if this is an issue with the quality of materials used in my rads or whether the water pump is not strong enough to overcome the resistance of flow on the strainer, when this is not completely clogged.
This is incredible how unreliable this kind of system is and it doesn't tolerate any rust. It requires a lot more maintenance, getting much more expensive in the long run. We all know that rusting is inevitable but this type of metallic filter is extremely sensitive and this tiny thing causes the entire house to get cold. Very frustrating
The technician who came to sort mine out says it's excess flux (and other debris) from installation - it takes a while for it to loosen and reach the filter.
🎉
07 error
Indeed.