Pete, Bro! You sold me! Same exact refrigerator and on a hunch, I followed you and advice. But, without the multitestor. I just followed my daughter's remark about a burning plastic smell. Guess what, the hunch was right. The board was burned. I did contact "Apex Used Appliances" and spoke with John. Who knew? This video is 4 yrs old. John picked up. I ordered the part. And just watching the temperature drop down slowly. Great Stuff here ladies and gentlemen. No lies. It's All for Real and True! 😊 Thumbs 👍to Pete and Apex/John. It was Confirmed by John. They Do Not know each other at all. Props Again Peace and Love. 😊
Hi Peter, Thanks for sharing. I have exactly the same type of fridge working on my solar grid daytime and on the public grid at night. Sometimes, when switching from a grid to another, the main board is frozen and the fridge doesn't cool anymore. Following your instructions, I check on the BK and RED wires and get nothing more than a couple of volts. Before ordering a new one, I applied 12.5V on these 2 wires and the fridge worked just fine. I did this trick 4 or 5 times during the 3 years I got my fridge switching everyday from a grid to another and I'm happy with that. I hope it helps. Thanks again.
Thanks for making this video. I read mine out and it was low. Ordered a new one and it worked like a champ. Original problem - after a power outage the only thing that worked were the lights inside the fridge and freezer. Not even the little green lights on the ice/water dispenser panel were working. All good now!!!
Thanks. Needed this video and this comment! Just the internal lights are on nothing else is working. We just didn’t have a power outage it just gave out I’m assuming. Do I unplug the fridge till the part gets here In two days? or it’s ok to leave it plugged in?
Thanks for your help. I looked at your video and did the volt test and it turns out the motherboard was infact bad. Replaced it and works perfectly now. Thanks for the awesome tip.
Yeah i got the same fridge and the same thing happened to me after a 3 hour power outage the fridge didn't come back on when the lights in the house did. So I changed out that control board and now it works better than before. Thanks to your video.
I had the same problem on the same model, after a transformer blew up the road. I found your video and began to check with the meter. It was bouncing 4v-11v. I went to that website. It is not an easy to work website and it would not find the part. I was reading the reset procedure online and it said to unplug for 10 mins. After plugging it back in it could take up to 18 mins for the board to register being plugged back in. I had done this, just plugged it back in, ordered another part just in case, and after 20 mins or so the compressor kicked on. I walked in to the kitchen to find the front screen back on. But I'm gonna keep the spare board just in case. Electrical=Magic
This actually occurred after a power outage on a weekend home that we don’t use regularly but after checking compressor and replacing cheap parts that wasn’t that at all, it was something stupid just a stuck relay in the control box right behind that metal plate I just needed to be tapped on Alabama with a screwdriver handle.
Thanks a million .my situation was just like another commenter and helped me decide what to try first cause my lights are on but nobody's home 😮doh...yust kidding .lights are on and thats all .also didn't have a power surge i just put it in the house from it being given to me by my neighbor.my neighbor told me it was broken but as soon as i cleaned it up and plugged it in it worked.moved it in and pooof it stopped working.but hey thank you .i believe we are on the right track.😅
AWESOME video man & thanks a bunch ! One suggestion though , when pinning-out for voltage with a multimeter, always specify which voltage you're searching for, DCv's or ACv's .
Aww crap, this is what just happened to me now. Unplugged the fridge to clean the condenser coil and plug it in and the light in the fridge come on but the fridge thermostat won't. I was looking for anybody with similar problem and stumbled across your video. Thank for the video I may have to try it out
Before replacing the entire control board, check the two large resistors, toward the middle of the board, for cold solder joints. Resoldering these fixed mine.
Something different that worked for me and it also worked on my GE clothes washer. I simply took off the metal cover from the control panel on the GE refrigerator and lightly tapped on all the capacitors and everything in the control box with a screwdriver handle and this was after a power outage and lo and behold. It worked its back on., I had tried start run capacitor all that stuff, even the overload which I knew was good, but I replaced it anyway, but the bottom line was what worked just tapped on all the components in the control box slightly with a screwdriver and I think it was a stuck relay the same exact thing happened to me with my GE clothes washer just tried let me know your thoughts before you buy a new control board for a new Ryan, start capacitor or overload switch
The same thing happened to my GE clothes washer and I went ahead and ordered a new control board well it was refurbished but did the same trick months ago and it’s still working but I still got the extra board in case it goes totally out just try tapping on all the Capacitors pretty much just tapping on everything, this worked, my clothes washer is still working but at least I have the extra control board when I need it maybe it was something to do with the power outage or short time loss of power but it worked
I’m not sure what capacitor it was, but it had to of been a relay that was stuck because the vibration of the tapping on it freed it up and now it’s working again, Again Hall I did was take the metal cover off of the control panel and tapped on all the components with a screwdriver. Now I was getting the 13.5 V but you had to have it plugged in so I’m not sure if this is a fault in the video , but it doesn’t matter my stuffs working thanks for the video just try it before you go to testing everything else after a power surge or maybe a power failure take that metal cover off the control box lock the video shows and tap on everything and it worked
Thanks for the heads up. The caps on mine were looking good, but had 4.6-6v fluctuating. So I took my soldering iron to all components on the 13v circuit (smd included), all the way back to the 120v line. Seems to have done the trick. Fired right up, with 13.4v solid. Fyi, I did do this once before, to the connectors, the TO-220 compenents, and the transformer. And it worked for 12 months or so... though I never checked the voltage afterward, back then.
Thanks for making this video! Showed me where to look/measure, as mine had 4.6-6v fluctuating too. So I took my soldering iron to all components on the 13v circuit (smd included), all the way back to the 120v line. Seems to have done the trick. Fired right up, with 13.4v solid now. Fyi, I did do similar to this once before, to the connectors, the TO-220 compenents, and the transformer. And it worked for 12 months or so... though I never checked the voltage afterward, back then. Likely, the handling of the board made it work back then (flexed a poor solder joint into working marginally for a while). PS. my board looks like your original there.
It is an example of "No good deed goes unpunished". He cleaned the fridge and it conked out. However, I'd not go the route he did trying 3 different board for over a week to get one that works. He should have checked with an authorized repair part dealer and they will tell him the right part number before ordering a new one. Ideally, if he gets a used one, get one with the exactly the same model number with the same components on the board, they are there for a reason. If he gets a new replacement, most if not all GE refrigerator will run with the new GE WR55X10942P board but it is a bit pricy. GE also made a refrigerator board repair kit with a main relay and 2 capacitors for those who can hack it but you have to get the right kit for board you have. Unless the board is burned badly, they can be easily repaired if you know how to wield a soldering iron. The most common problem with these board is the main relay goes bad and it won't turn on the compressor. Most components on these boards are 12V so the DC feed of 12V or more should be fine, it does not have to be 13.5V. The 12V voltage test he did on the circuit is only for the front LED control panel but this panel rarely ever failed. The 12V voltage there does not guarantee that the fridge will work. The other 12V voltage tests he should have done is on the J2 connector to the evaporator and condenser fans. These fan motors are most likely the failed components that could take down the control board. It would be visible with the burned resistors just below the J2 connector. Last but not least, he should have checked for the 120V power supply to the board at the bottom two connectors and the 120V power to the compressor at the start relay. None of the 12V components will do anything if the compressor does not get the 120V input required to run.
Extremely helpful Peter... I don't know what you do or why you have 14+K subscribers, but I figured it would probably be worth knowing just given this one example of kindness and support. So, I'm in! (Now, what do you do exactly?) Thanks again! Pete = the best!!
Cheers. Thank you for subbing. Basically I like to do diy stuff and share when I can. By profession, I am a mortgage Banker and Realtor. Hope that helps. Cheers. :)
Hi There. Mine also has same age. I just got it and I am confused about the temperature adjustment. As you know, on both sides the digits go from 1 to 9. Q: which digit is very cold (1 or 9)? Thanks!
Looking for one now. Had a buddy put in a different board but wasn’t the right one. He said either fridge or freezer would be cooler than the other but problem is front panel on freezer doesn’t work. This is exact same fridge I have. Can’t use ice maker or panel or anything. The fridge and freezer are cold but not cold enough.
@@PeterZafra oh ok gotcha. Well this is same fridge but they have different model numbers. The panel looks exactly the same I’m wondering if I can use same board that you bought on mine as well? 🤔 thank you I greatly appreciate it! Thank you for the video.
Hey Peter, thanks for the great video. When your motherboard went out, did it stop making ice? Stop cooling the refrigerator no lights or anything. All that works on mine. The only thing is my control panel is out. What are your thoughts. I’m thinking just to control panel is out.
dear Peter, thanks for your videos. Clear, to the point, and effective. I do have a similar GE starting with GSHL etc. model number. Mine does not deliver water. Does make ice without problems, but looks more like the dispenser switch does not operate the water line. Nothing is frozen either. Last "repair" was a plug-unplug and a pray, including some "reset"combination of buttons on the dispenser panel (combination of press-release buttons that I can not reproduce this time). Is there a button reset combination that did work for you, should a problem like mine happened ??? any suggestion ?? Again, thanks for your time and patience to share your videos to the DIY community !!! Patricio
Check to make sure you don't have a frozen line. There's a disconnect at the bottom of the freezer door. Unplug it and make sure that the line isn't frozen by shooting air into it and or use a syringe to shoot water thru. Usually the line gets frozen. Happened to me 3 times already. Hope that helps. Cheers.
Bought mine in 2008. Here's the problem. The freezer is still working, along with front panel control lights, but somehow the door didn't quite shut, on the fridge side. Came home HOURS later and heard the (fickle) alarm going off. Was cooling my whole home! But, guess what, I guess it basically burnt up from cranking all that time. Is this going to be the same problem OR is this symptom, considering the circumstance, indicative of maybe/probably something else?! THANKS. Hope you see this.
I have a side by side GE and I would like to know if the engine is 1/3 power! Another question is whether the bimetal thermostat works in reverse compared to other refrigerators! The bimetal thermostat on my GE when cooled turns off the resistance and when at room temperature turns on the contact!
Yes. I believe the bipedal thermostat prevent the evaporator from Over heating during the defrost cycle. Basically telling the compressor to turn back on when it gets too hot for the evaporator. Not sure what yours is doing. Not sure about compressor if it's 1/3 power either.
@@PeterZafra I really appreciate your help! Thanks to you my side by side is working. The problem was the bimetal that works differently from other freezers. Thanks
Mine is dead. Light bulbs come on but nothing else. I tried testing with my multi-meter like you said and it read 'OL'. WTF. I wasn't in mV, tried reading AC and DC. Is there a hefty transformer in there? This is with a fluke 87V.
My lights, front panel and fan work but the compressor is not coming on. I had ice and removed it with a blow driver and vacuumed the back. Please help
I noticed in vid your multimeter was on DC , I switched mine to DC and had the recommended 13.6 . I guess I assumed it was AC voltage. But no it isn’t working ok coils were frozen over i thawed but now it won’t get below 55 and I have 00 error codes I can’t get rid of. I’ve already bought a new fridge but I like to fix stuff ,was gonna try to fix and use in garage. Tks for getting back
Hi Peter, I'm just looking at my fridge which went out today. We are getting ZERO volts across the red and black terminals. What does that mean? The lights for the frig are on, but the temps / controls are out and only the "HRS" indicator was flickering. Ours is a PSC23SGRB and the board looks in mint condition (to me).
Yes. Because the freezer is what cools the fridge. If the freezer is working strong and the fridge isn't, then you most likely have a frozen evaporator caused by a faulty defrost element, or a broken thermister
Hello. No. You would be safer by unplugging the fridge. Especially if she plans on doing a deep cleaning. It would also be good to pull the fridge forward and vacuum the dust accumulated in the back compressor area.
General Electric. model GSL25XGWASS. electricity went out in the whole house. After switching on, the screen where the temperature controller on the front side of the door did not light up. there is light in the refrigerator. if possible tell me the reason? thanks.
We had a power surge, which I assume is the culprit. My control board is almost the same, but I have a red wire with a black stripe, white with black stripe and blue with yellow stripe. No black. Wondering how to check voltage. Also, lights turn on, but the inside temperature display does not light up. Could that be mother board problem, too? Thanks!
Thanks for the quick reply! I think I figured it out from another video. The voltage was fluctuating from about 3.70 to 4.00. That reenforces the motherboard being the issue. I’m looking into putting a surge protector in that outlet to prevent a reoccurrence. Thanks again!
Sorry for the late reply. You may have gotten the wrong board. I had the same thing happen to me. Verify that you have the same board as the stock one.
Hi there, thanks for this vid! I have a GE profile side by side refrigerator with very similar display panel. After a power reset, the display showing “zero” and then blinking zeros. I tried the unplug and reset the circuit breaker all that without luck so far. Both freezer and fridge sides are not cooling at all. I am thinking I may have the same problem as you. Just want to check to see if you have the same zero/ blinking when you first noticed the issue, thanks! Thoughts?
Hi I have this exact refrigerator and my condenser fan broke and was replaced 6mths ago and now the condenser fan went out again,any ideas as to what’s causing it to break prematurely? Thanks
I really don't know what can cause it. Have you cleaned out the dust billed up? This model tends to get really dirty. Try to vacuum as much of the dirt build up as much as possible. To be honest, I'm not a big fan of this refrigerator. I've had to change out so many parts since I've owned it. Hope it works out for you. Cheers
@@PeterZafra i meant how to take the board off i took the cover off before watching the video but nevermind i bought a brand new Frigidaire gallery i love it😍 all repair shops was closed today
@@PeterZafra Just checked it is froze over. Should I thaw it and then hook back up to see if it freezes over again? Or you think the defroster might be out? We did clean the fan and the coils underneath the fridge.
I installed the board for the same fridge and the front display is flashing 0 0. No night light and does not dispense water. The fans both work as well as the compressor after I installed the new board. Could it be possible the board I received is bad?
Mine the front display was blank and only lights in fridge and freezer worked no cooling after a power outage and no clicking but the solder connection that was bad is 1 terminal on the part attached to the little black heat sink closer to the center or middle of the board by the biggest capacitor and I'm just sharing wat fixed mine but I don't advise any1 to try this call a professional!
I changed old board and replaced it with a original,it worked for like 5 mins and then the entire control board infront stop working and wont come back onn.can you please tell me what to do now
Do you have any ideas what to do if the temp adjustments are flashing "00 00"? Is there some programming i need to do? Or should I just replace the control main board?
When its flashing, it's a control board issue. Or it might be the wrong board if you replaced it already. It happened to me already and it was the wrong board.
@@PeterZafra same problem I am having. The front dispenser panel on freezer does not light. I did the check on the mother board. The meter was jumping around like you mentioned. I have the model number as yours but not the SS.
QQ: after putting the new board, do you have to do something else besides plugging the refrigerator to power? I was told by a GE technician that my board (same as yours) died. i replaced it myself with a new one , but it made no difference. Wondering if i need to do something else..
my fridge was working. I moved it from the garage to kitchen. ice cubes were coming fast. then stopped making the box was full and freezer was too cold ice was sticking together and wouldn't dispense. I changed the temperature to a 5 and I think it git worse... so now I have them at 9 both freezer and fridge 🙃 idk if that fine. does it take time for temp to be good. lights are working everything but I been messing with the temperature 🌡
On 16th jan I noticed my ge side by side is not working properly I thought may be its just the issue of voltage, I cleaned it on 26th and it took 8 hours to restart again and working...now at mid Feb.my fridge is not working at all and freezer is running like fridge and made lost of ice on its wall...I removed some ice but its not freezing at all...☹☹☹...I am very sad...as a new family in texas and having a normal job for living i am thinking about the cost I would pay to mechanic 🥲😔
Place a cup of water in the freezer and see if it freezes. It's most likely the motherboard. See and make sure that the temperature is also in the proper setting on front panel control. Hope it gets fixed with minimal issues.
Thank you sir for replying..temp. is on coldest that is 9.. but how can I be sure that the problem is in the motherboard...the noise of fridge is like normal but fridge is not working or just at lower temp..not any liquid is freezing
Pete, Bro! You sold me! Same exact refrigerator and on a hunch, I followed you and advice. But, without the multitestor. I just followed my daughter's remark about a burning plastic smell. Guess what, the hunch was right. The board was burned. I did contact "Apex Used Appliances" and spoke with John. Who knew? This video is 4 yrs old. John picked up. I ordered the part. And just watching the temperature drop down slowly. Great Stuff here ladies and gentlemen. No lies. It's All for Real and True! 😊 Thumbs 👍to Pete and Apex/John. It was Confirmed by John. They Do Not know each other at all. Props Again
Peace and Love. 😊
Sweet. Yes. I don't know John personally. Great company. Cheers
@@PeterZafra The Board was Fried. I wish I could send you pictures. But, I put in a great review on Yelp* Thanks again. 😊
Hi Peter, Thanks for sharing. I have exactly the same type of fridge working on my solar grid daytime and on the public grid at night. Sometimes, when switching from a grid to another, the main board is frozen and the fridge doesn't cool anymore. Following your instructions, I check on the BK and RED wires and get nothing more than a couple of volts. Before ordering a new one, I applied 12.5V on these 2 wires and the fridge worked just fine. I did this trick 4 or 5 times during the 3 years I got my fridge switching everyday from a grid to another and I'm happy with that. I hope it helps.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the nugget. Cheers
This is an awesome video. People like you are the reason I watch you tube video’s.
Cheers
Thanks for making this video. I read mine out and it was low. Ordered a new one and it worked like a champ. Original problem - after a power outage the only thing that worked were the lights inside the fridge and freezer. Not even the little green lights on the ice/water dispenser panel were working. All good now!!!
Glad it all worked out. Cheers
Thanks. Needed this video and this comment! Just the internal lights are on nothing else is working. We just didn’t have a power outage it just gave out I’m assuming.
Do I unplug the fridge till the part gets here In two days? or it’s ok to leave it plugged in?
@@5ive9inefx The board that I ordered didn’t look exactly like the one I removed but the part number crossed on Amazon and appliance parts pros.
bud I have the exact same problem. I didn't even bother checking the board, I called Apex and Dave said that is the most common issue.
@@PeterZafra hi there , do you know how to reset the fridge??
This video was super helpful and may have saved me from buying a new refrigerator. You were right about Apex too.
Cheers
Thanks for your help. I looked at your video and did the volt test and it turns out the motherboard was infact bad. Replaced it and works perfectly now. Thanks for the awesome tip.
Cheers
I did call them.I watched a video cause of you.I want to say thank you.Have a good day sir
Cheers. Glad they were able to help.
Yeah i got the same fridge and the same thing happened to me after a 3 hour power outage the fridge didn't come back on when the lights in the house did. So I changed out that control board and now it works better than before. Thanks to your video.
Cheers
I had the same problem on the same model, after a transformer blew up the road. I found your video and began to check with the meter. It was bouncing 4v-11v. I went to that website. It is not an easy to work website and it would not find the part. I was reading the reset procedure online and it said to unplug for 10 mins. After plugging it back in it could take up to 18 mins for the board to register being plugged back in. I had done this, just plugged it back in, ordered another part just in case, and after 20 mins or so the compressor kicked on. I walked in to the kitchen to find the front screen back on. But I'm gonna keep the spare board just in case. Electrical=Magic
I'm glad it all worked out for you. Cheers
Didn't know you were supposed to wait 20 min.
I thought it was still broke. Trying again
This actually occurred after a power outage on a weekend home that we don’t use regularly but after checking compressor and replacing cheap parts that wasn’t that at all, it was something stupid just a stuck relay in the control box right behind that metal plate I just needed to be tapped on Alabama with a screwdriver handle.
Thank you for making this video. It saved me to buy a new one. Its a teaching well done. Great help.
Cheers
Apex Used Appliance!! Great tip on this source. $44 board fixed my issue! and they will take my old board to recycle! Thanks and great video!
Awesome. They are great people at Apex. Cheers!!!!!
Thanks a million .my situation was just like another commenter and helped me decide what to try first cause my lights are on but nobody's home 😮doh...yust kidding .lights are on and thats all .also didn't have a power surge i just put it in the house from it being given to me by my neighbor.my neighbor told me it was broken but as soon as i cleaned it up and plugged it in it worked.moved it in and pooof it stopped working.but hey thank you .i believe we are on the right track.😅
Cheers
AWESOME video man & thanks a bunch ! One suggestion though , when pinning-out for voltage with a multimeter, always specify which voltage you're searching for, DCv's or ACv's .
Cheers
Aww crap, this is what just happened to me now. Unplugged the fridge to clean the condenser coil and plug it in and the light in the fridge come on but the fridge thermostat won't. I was looking for anybody with similar problem and stumbled across your video. Thank for the video I may have to try it out
Yes. For some reason, these GE fridge don't like being cleaned
@@PeterZafra this is my first time experiencing this as I'm not that knowledgeable in appliances. But you could be right.
@@PeterZafra oh really🤕 ..I cleaned but the problem is same like other inside light is on but fridge is not working😭
Before replacing the entire control board, check the two large resistors, toward the middle of the board, for cold solder joints. Resoldering these fixed mine.
Cheers
Something different that worked for me and it also worked on my GE clothes washer. I simply took off the metal cover from the control panel on the GE refrigerator and lightly tapped on all the capacitors and everything in the control box with a screwdriver handle and this was after a power outage and lo and behold. It worked its back on., I had tried start run capacitor all that stuff, even the overload which I knew was good, but I replaced it anyway, but the bottom line was what worked just tapped on all the components in the control box slightly with a screwdriver and I think it was a stuck relay the same exact thing happened to me with my GE clothes washer just tried let me know your thoughts before you buy a new control board for a new Ryan, start capacitor or overload switch
The same thing happened to my GE clothes washer and I went ahead and ordered a new control board well it was refurbished but did the same trick months ago and it’s still working but I still got the extra board in case it goes totally out just try tapping on all the Capacitors pretty much just tapping on everything, this worked, my clothes washer is still working but at least I have the extra control board when I need it maybe it was something to do with the power outage or short time loss of power but it worked
I’m not sure what capacitor it was, but it had to of been a relay that was stuck because the vibration of the tapping on it freed it up and now it’s working again,
Again Hall I did was take the metal cover off of the control panel and tapped on all the components with a screwdriver. Now I was getting the 13.5 V but you had to have it plugged in so I’m not sure if this is a fault in the video , but it doesn’t matter my stuffs working thanks for the video just try it before you go to testing everything else after a power surge or maybe a power failure take that metal cover off the control box lock the video shows and tap on everything and it worked
I had two swollen 470uF caps that I replaced/re-soldered for 5 bucks... that did the trick
Awesome. Cheers
Thanks for the heads up. The caps on mine were looking good, but had 4.6-6v fluctuating. So I took my soldering iron to all components on the 13v circuit (smd included), all the way back to the 120v line. Seems to have done the trick. Fired right up, with 13.4v solid.
Fyi, I did do this once before, to the connectors, the TO-220 compenents, and the transformer. And it worked for 12 months or so... though I never checked the voltage afterward, back then.
Thank you . I had this happen to me . I called that number and guess who called JOHN Lol. Big help
Awesome. Make sure to let him know where you found his info. Cheers. Great guy
Thanks for making this video! Showed me where to look/measure, as mine had 4.6-6v fluctuating too. So I took my soldering iron to all components on the 13v circuit (smd included), all the way back to the 120v line. Seems to have done the trick. Fired right up, with 13.4v solid now.
Fyi, I did do similar to this once before, to the connectors, the TO-220 compenents, and the transformer. And it worked for 12 months or so... though I never checked the voltage afterward, back then. Likely, the handling of the board made it work back then (flexed a poor solder joint into working marginally for a while). PS. my board looks like your original there.
Nice. Thank you for sharing.
OMG !!!! It took 5 times to get a good one ! and you are happy with them !!!!!
Very helpful company. The only supplier that got it right.
Same thing happened to mine...great vid little buddy
Thank you
Hello friend, congratulations on the videos! I'm from Brazil and would like to clear some doubts!
Cleared
It is an example of "No good deed goes unpunished". He cleaned the fridge and it conked out. However, I'd not go the route he did trying 3 different board for over a week to get one that works. He should have checked with an authorized repair part dealer and they will tell him the right part number before ordering a new one. Ideally, if he gets a used one, get one with the exactly the same model number with the same components on the board, they are there for a reason. If he gets a new replacement, most if not all GE refrigerator will run with the new GE WR55X10942P board but it is a bit pricy. GE also made a refrigerator board repair kit with a main relay and 2 capacitors for those who can hack it but you have to get the right kit for board you have. Unless the board is burned badly, they can be easily repaired if you know how to wield a soldering iron. The most common problem with these board is the main relay goes bad and it won't turn on the compressor. Most components on these boards are 12V so the DC feed of 12V or more should be fine, it does not have to be 13.5V. The 12V voltage test he did on the circuit is only for the front LED control panel but this panel rarely ever failed. The 12V voltage there does not guarantee that the fridge will work. The other 12V voltage tests he should have done is on the J2 connector to the evaporator and condenser fans. These fan motors are most likely the failed components that could take down the control board. It would be visible with the burned resistors just below the J2 connector. Last but not least, he should have checked for the 120V power supply to the board at the bottom two connectors and the 120V power to the compressor at the start relay. None of the 12V components will do anything if the compressor does not get the 120V input required to run.
Thank you for your input. It was a capacitor on this one. Cheers.
Extremely helpful Peter... I don't know what you do or why you have 14+K subscribers, but I figured it would probably be worth knowing just given this one example of kindness and support. So, I'm in! (Now, what do you do exactly?) Thanks again! Pete = the best!!
Cheers. Thank you for subbing. Basically I like to do diy stuff and share when I can. By profession, I am a mortgage Banker and Realtor. Hope that helps. Cheers. :)
Hi There. Mine also has same age. I just got it and I am confused about the temperature adjustment. As you know, on both sides the digits go from 1 to 9. Q: which digit is very cold (1 or 9)? Thanks!
9 is coldest
Looking for one now. Had a buddy put in a different board but wasn’t the right one. He said either fridge or freezer would be cooler than the other but problem is front panel on freezer doesn’t work. This is exact same fridge I have. Can’t use ice maker or panel or anything. The fridge and freezer are cold but not cold enough.
Yes. I had the same issue with a wrong board I got as well. Hope you get it resolved. Cheers.
@@PeterZafra oh ok gotcha. Well this is same fridge but they have different model numbers. The panel looks exactly the same I’m wondering if I can use same board that you bought on mine as well? 🤔 thank you I greatly appreciate it! Thank you for the video.
Good luck to all, these relays can get stuck closed in appliances just tap on them to free up the relays
Thanks Peter!
Cheers
Hey Peter, thanks for the great video. When your motherboard went out, did it stop making ice? Stop cooling the refrigerator no lights or anything. All that works on mine. The only thing is my control panel is out. What are your thoughts. I’m thinking just to control panel is out.
Lights worked, not the compressor. No ice. No control panel
It was a STUCK RELAY, would not allow the compressor to come on. Tried and let me know please.
dear Peter, thanks for your videos. Clear, to the point, and effective. I do have a similar GE starting with GSHL etc. model number. Mine does not deliver water. Does make ice without problems, but looks more like the dispenser switch does not operate the water line. Nothing is frozen either. Last "repair" was a plug-unplug and a pray, including some "reset"combination of buttons on the dispenser panel (combination of press-release buttons that I can not reproduce this time). Is there a button reset combination that did work for you, should a problem like mine happened ??? any suggestion ?? Again, thanks for your time and patience to share your videos to the DIY community !!! Patricio
Check to make sure you don't have a frozen line. There's a disconnect at the bottom of the freezer door. Unplug it and make sure that the line isn't frozen by shooting air into it and or use a syringe to shoot water thru. Usually the line gets frozen. Happened to me 3 times already. Hope that helps. Cheers.
Bought mine in 2008. Here's the problem. The freezer is still working, along with front panel control lights, but somehow the door didn't quite shut, on the fridge side. Came home HOURS later and heard the (fickle) alarm going off. Was cooling my whole home! But, guess what, I guess it basically burnt up from cranking all that time. Is this going to be the same problem OR is this symptom, considering the circumstance, indicative of maybe/probably something else?! THANKS. Hope you see this.
If the fridge is working and still working then it's all good. Just adjust to be able to close fridge. Cheers
I have the same one, it just stop working no lights .no nothing how do you restate it.
@@alfredwilson3500 make sure the outlet is active. Otherwise the board is fried
I have a side by side GE and I would like to know if the engine is 1/3 power! Another question is whether the bimetal thermostat works in reverse compared to other refrigerators! The bimetal thermostat on my GE when cooled turns off the resistance and when at room temperature turns on the contact!
Yes. I believe the bipedal thermostat prevent the evaporator from Over heating during the defrost cycle. Basically telling the compressor to turn back on when it gets too hot for the evaporator. Not sure what yours is doing. Not sure about compressor if it's 1/3 power either.
@@PeterZafra I really appreciate your help! Thanks to you my side by side is working. The problem was the bimetal that works differently from other freezers. Thanks
😊it was perfect
Cheers
Mine is dead. Light bulbs come on but nothing else.
I tried testing with my multi-meter like you said and it read 'OL'. WTF. I wasn't in mV, tried reading AC and DC. Is there a hefty transformer in there? This is with a fluke 87V.
Most likely, you will need a new board. I ended up changing mine as well.
SS is for side by side
Cheers
My lights, front panel and fan work but the compressor is not coming on. I had ice and removed it with a blow driver and vacuumed the back. Please help
You said, unplug the unit to check the voltage using the red and black wires is this true?
Old video but…. I have exact same model. Voltage reads 26 blinking 00 after a thorough cleaning and washing of coils.
Wow. 26. Is it working okay?
I noticed in vid your multimeter was on DC , I switched mine to DC and had the recommended 13.6 . I guess I assumed it was AC voltage. But no it isn’t working ok coils were frozen over i thawed but now it won’t get below 55 and I have 00 error codes I can’t get rid of. I’ve already bought a new fridge but I like to fix stuff ,was gonna try to fix and use in garage. Tks for getting back
Thanks very helpful!!!
Hi Peter, I'm just looking at my fridge which went out today. We are getting ZERO volts across the red and black terminals. What does that mean? The lights for the frig are on, but the temps / controls are out and only the "HRS" indicator was flickering. Ours is a PSC23SGRB and the board looks in mint condition (to me).
The board could look mint and clean but one capacitor can shut the whole board down. I'm sure it could be a bad board
How turn on and off this ref. I have on and is not turning on
I'm hoping this will fix my problem. Fan runs, lights come on, but no ice, no water, not cooling at all...
Board is toast.
Question: is it possible for the freezer to be working and the refrigerator to be not? Seems a setting problem rather than a broken fridge?
Yes. Because the freezer is what cools the fridge. If the freezer is working strong and the fridge isn't, then you most likely have a frozen evaporator caused by a faulty defrost element, or a broken thermister
Having the same issue now
What Peter said above. You will likely see frost in the back of the freezer. Like $13 for the parts you need on Amazon and 30 mins to fix
I replace the board but still no power to the refrigerator
Did you check voltage? Might be a bad board.
So I just checked mine and I have a green light flashing. What’s that mean? Help
my mother would like to clean the fridge. she wants to turn it off from the buttons. is that possible?
Hello. No. You would be safer by unplugging the fridge. Especially if she plans on doing a deep cleaning. It would also be good to pull the fridge forward and vacuum the dust accumulated in the back compressor area.
@@PeterZafra Thank you so much!
General Electric. model GSL25XGWASS. electricity went out in the whole house. After switching on, the screen where the temperature controller on the front side of the door did not light up. there is light in the refrigerator. if possible tell me the reason? thanks.
Surge most likely toasted the motherboard
We had a power surge, which I assume is the culprit. My control board is almost the same, but I have a red wire with a black stripe, white with black stripe and blue with yellow stripe. No black. Wondering how to check voltage. Also, lights turn on, but the inside temperature display does not light up. Could that be mother board problem, too? Thanks!
Power surge can kill motherboard. It's basically the same as what happened with mine. Hope you find a good deal on one.
Not really sure how to check voltage on that.
Thanks for the quick reply! I think I figured it out from another video. The voltage was fluctuating from about 3.70 to 4.00. That reenforces the motherboard being the issue. I’m looking into putting a surge protector in that outlet to prevent a reoccurrence. Thanks again!
What's a good setting for both to be really cold ?
Sorry for the late reply. 5,5 is ideal. Just don't stuff the freezer too much
I’m getting the volts but my front display isn’t working. What two buttons do I hold down to reset it ?
Sorry for the late reply. You may have gotten the wrong board. I had the same thing happen to me. Verify that you have the same board as the stock one.
Hi there, thanks for this vid! I have a GE profile side by side refrigerator with very similar display panel. After a power reset, the display showing “zero” and then blinking zeros. I tried the unplug and reset the circuit breaker all that without luck so far. Both freezer and fridge sides are not cooling at all. I am thinking I may have the same problem as you. Just want to check to see if you have the same zero/ blinking when you first noticed the issue, thanks! Thoughts?
Yes. That's exactly what happened with mine. You will need a new board.
Peter Zafra thank you! I ordered the board from John - they are great to deal with.
And the new board worked! So far
@@jamesliu1908 hi can you give me the link from where you ordered the board🙂
Hello. When you say 13.5 volts, I presume AC?!?! Thanks !
Hi I have this exact refrigerator and my condenser fan broke and was replaced 6mths ago and now the condenser fan went out again,any ideas as to what’s causing it to break prematurely? Thanks
I really don't know what can cause it. Have you cleaned out the dust billed up? This model tends to get really dirty. Try to vacuum as much of the dirt build up as much as possible. To be honest, I'm not a big fan of this refrigerator. I've had to change out so many parts since I've owned it. Hope it works out for you. Cheers
This is a GE side by side model
GSL25JFPA BS
Hi there !! Do you inow how to reset the fridge??
Yes. You can unplug it for 10 minutes and that will reset the motherboard
@@PeterZafra yes , i did that and does not work . What do you think ?
Does the refrigerator have to be unplug when you’re checking the voltage?
No. Just be very careful because it needs to be plugged to see voltage
Hi do you think you can help me with something?? Do you know what to press on the pannel to reset my friedge after power outage??
Sorry but i don't. Did you try looking up your model number online to see? Hope you find it.
How to take the board off
Just unscrew back cover (make sure unit is unplugged) you will see the board
@@PeterZafra i meant how to take the board off i took the cover off before watching the video but nevermind i bought a brand new Frigidaire gallery i love it😍 all repair shops was closed today
Peter I have the same fridge and my freezer is cooling but the fridge is not getting cold. It is cool but not cold. Any ideas?
I have a feeling your evaporator is frozen. Is your freezer on high speed? Like it's over working?
@@PeterZafra Just checked it is froze over. Should I thaw it and then hook back up to see if it freezes over again? Or you think the defroster might be out? We did clean the fan and the coils underneath the fridge.
I installed the board for the same fridge and the front display is flashing 0 0. No night light and does not dispense water. The fans both work as well as the compressor after I installed the new board. Could it be possible the board I received is bad?
I had the same issue. It's the wrong board. Not necessarily a bad board but a wrong part #
@@PeterZafra on the website it says it will work for the model number I have. I even messaged the seller and he said the same..
@@PeterZafraThx for your reply.
Mine the front display was blank and only lights in fridge and freezer worked no cooling after a power outage and no clicking but the solder connection that was bad is 1 terminal on the part attached to the little black heat sink closer to the center or middle of the board by the biggest capacitor and I'm just sharing wat fixed mine but I don't advise any1 to try this call a professional!
I changed old board and replaced it with a original,it worked for like 5 mins and then the entire control board infront stop working and wont come back onn.can you please tell me what to do now
You might have gotten a defective one. Make sure all connections are connected properly as well
Did you put the same serial number or did you use a different one?
Do you have any ideas what to do if the temp adjustments are flashing "00 00"? Is there some programming i need to do? Or should I just replace the control main board?
When its flashing, it's a control board issue. Or it might be the wrong board if you replaced it already. It happened to me already and it was the wrong board.
@@PeterZafra thanks for the reply.
Was the problem with your frig the front control panel stopped working and the fridge stopped cooling/freezing? Thanks!
No. It was the circuit board. It stopped all except for the lights in the fridge
@@PeterZafra same problem I am having. The front dispenser panel on freezer does not light. I did the check on the mother board. The meter was jumping around like you mentioned. I have the model number as yours but not the SS.
I have the same refrigerator and I can’t find the water filter. Do you know where is located?
When you open the fridge, upper back right side.
QQ: after putting the new board, do you have to do something else besides plugging the refrigerator to power? I was told by a GE technician that my board (same as yours) died. i replaced it myself with a new one , but it made no difference. Wondering if i need to do something else..
It will usually turns on after about 90 seconds
If it doesn't turn on after 90 sec, your board might be a bad one
I put in an open box ebay mother board and it's still clicking on and off and not cooling.
Check voltage. Clicking sound is an indication of a bad relay
Thank you, that will be my next step
I ordered the relay so we'll see
my fridge was working. I moved it from the garage to kitchen. ice cubes were coming fast. then stopped making the box was full and freezer was too cold ice was sticking together and wouldn't dispense. I changed the temperature to a 5 and I think it git worse... so now I have them at 9 both freezer and fridge 🙃 idk if that fine. does it take time for temp to be good. lights are working everything but I been messing with the temperature 🌡
That’s when it’s plugged into the wall
I’m having the same problem with my Fridge
Check link i left contact person where i got parts from. Hope it helps.
Sorry, the contact info is in the video. Cheers
Peter Zafra I got the information. Thank you.
Peter Zafra thank you.
I fix my refrigerator it was the main board
What settings do u have it on?
Just normal settings. Not colder or warmer
@@PeterZafra is it 5-5?
Is ur settings 5-5?
Yes.
I just want to know where you getting or ordering your parts.
Hi. My video shows where i got the part from. I actually gave them a plug im the video. Try checking my other GE videos and you will find them. Cheers
Someone did not watch the video
Thank you for your video. How do I test the control board with analog meter?
I don't really know how to test the actual control board. I only tested the voltage output of the actual main board.
Do I unplug the fridge to test? I have a multimeter that’s digital but I don’t know how to use it
@@PeterZafra xfcccfvi77
Fkn power outage broke my fridge
Exactly what happened with mine. The surge fried my board.
how do I get to it
There's a panel on the back of the fridge. Aluminum cover. The board is in there.
On 16th jan I noticed my ge side by side is not working properly I thought may be its just the issue of voltage, I cleaned it on 26th and it took 8 hours to restart again and working...now at mid Feb.my fridge is not working at all and freezer is running like fridge and made lost of ice on its wall...I removed some ice but its not freezing at all...☹☹☹...I am very sad...as a new family in texas and having a normal job for living i am thinking about the cost I would pay to mechanic 🥲😔
Place a cup of water in the freezer and see if it freezes. It's most likely the motherboard. See and make sure that the temperature is also in the proper setting on front panel control. Hope it gets fixed with minimal issues.
Thank you sir for replying..temp. is on coldest that is 9.. but how can I be sure that the problem is in the motherboard...the noise of fridge is like normal but fridge is not working or just at lower temp..not any liquid is freezing