Hi Everybody, Welcome! If you have technical questions please check out www.Patreon.com/GraceAppliance By becoming a channel supporter, you'll get priority response to technical questions, technical data sheet requests, and help support the channel so I can produce more repair videos. Thanks so much! Andy
Andy I was lucky to find your video. My frig. stopped working and I was quoted $ 500 to fix. I searched and found your video with the issue that I was experiencing. I watched several times also the one about front control panel. I decided to order the order rear board and I just installed it today and the frig. is working great. Thank you for your instructional videos.
In my case there was no visual sign of something burnt or any capacitor damaged. I followed your videos and decided to replace the main control board. Worked great!! Thank you for your video! It is very clear, visual and well documented.❤
You have earned a subscriber . I appreciate the tone and inflection of your voice, explains clearly and without to munch information. EXCELLENT WORK. Bravo Zulu
Using this video, my 12 year old daughter and I were able to diagnose and repair the main control board our GE refrigerator which is 11 years old but still looks brand new. Having no experience using a voltmeter or in appliance repair, your video was so simple to follow! The part cost $220 with next day shipping. Thank you!
no one but you helped me andy, but you were perfect. It worked exactly as you said .your directions were perfect. i was a little nervous because the part and shipping m was 135.00, but well worth it , other than a repairman. Thanks again andy and keep up the great work
Andy, I want to sincerely thank you for posting this valuable information, and finding this video via the search bar with the GE model number was how I found your video. My friend Fran was actually looking for another refrigerator after a power outage rendered their GE device dead, except for the interior light, and her and her kid's food was steadily thawing in this Louisiana heat. By following your specific directions, I'm pleased to say it's fixed!! Thank you and I've subscribed to your channel.
Hi Andy, thanks for sharing your expertise with all of us. We're still trying to figure out what is wrong with our GE Side by Side Refrigerator, and you are the ONLY help we have received. We phoned GE and they wouldn't help or give any phone assistance....so thanks so much!
I fixed my GE Stainless Steel Side-by-side fridge in about 15 minutes after receiving the new control board from Amazon! SO easy. Cost $154 + my time vs. around $485 quoted to me by a local appliance repair shop here in Austin. I also vacuumed out all the lint surrounding the compressor housing and hoses and wires. Fridge is 10 years old. My 14-yr old son assisted the "surgery" and got to see how much money you can save doing it yourself with RUclips & Amazon & basic tools. He's super smart so he could have easily done this himself. He's up next...lol. Thank you!
Thank you Christian! I appreciate that. It just takes having spent loads of money on my own mistakes in the past. HAHA! You always remember the information that cost you money in the past.
Great series. I am watching it for a KDK wine fridge which is problematic. I have 220v going to the board. I can bypass the board and power up the compressor. Next step: checking the other elements with the MM this week. As the board looks clean on both sides I suspect faulty relays... Thanks for putting this video series together.
Awesome work! If you think about it keep us updated with the outcome and if you have any questions. Your fridge runs on 220v? I know certain countries will use 220 vs 110, but I've never had to work on a 220.
@@GraceAppliance well, 110v and 220v don't discriminate : they are both deadly ;) thanks for the encouragements. I will come back here and report after I test everything and replace the control board relays...
Question- Lets say I wasn't watching your video to figure out which leads I must check voltages through. How would someone find that information? In other words, how do I know that I need to check two leads for any particular voltage, resistance, ect.
Hi, each model has a specific tech sheet which (if you’re fortunate) will include some of this info. Appliance tech sheets are notoriously vague, hidden or simply not included with the machine. They vary wildly from very helpful to complete garbage as far as their usefulness. For GE side by sides if you have temp controls inside the refrigerator section, it’s often tucked inside that console if you remove it. You’d know which leads to check by reading the wiring diagram. Sometimes you’ll have resistance specs for various components and sometimes these are integrated in to the wiring diagram directly.
Many Thanks to Grace Appliance for their 8 Videos on Diagnosing The GE Refrigerator Control Board. ... Thanks so much for these 7 excellent videos. They clearly showed me how to access the needed places so I could conduct successful testing. These are great!!! Signed Henry Gurr
@Grace Appliance, Hi Andy, Nice video explaining how to diagnose. I have a dead fridge issue, which started happening after a power outage. Only the inside lights would come ON, with no power on the door panel and the compressor and fan not coming ON. I have tired J3 and J2 test for voltage, it gives random reading (fluctuating). In the middle of the J2, J3 reading the compressor and fan turns ON and light comes on the panel and the fridge starts working. J2 and J3 reading on the running fridge gives 16.44 consistently. If I unplug and and plug back in I get the dead fridge again. If I check the reading on J2/J3, plug and unplug the connectors the fridge starts to work again. Not sure what to think. The issue started after a bad outage we had about 3 weeks ago. Visually the harness looks fine, nothing is loose. Appreciate your insight as to what the problem could be.
Andy - thanks for your videos! Was trouble-shooting my GSL25JFXBLB with a “dead” front panel after a power outage. Pulled the J-plug in the main control board but nothing happened. Put the J-plug back in and continued watching your video, when a few minutes later the fridge started running and the lights on the front panel came on. Did me pulling the J-plug act as a sort of reset button? Either way, thanks for your clear instructions for trouble shooting!
Hi Andy. I have a GE gsl25jfpbs side by side.....freezer stopped freezing and then by the next day the refrigerator was warm....I have replaced the evaporator fan motor, heater, bottom freezer thermistor and top one and the thermostat. I plugged it back in and it ran non stop. The freezer worked and the refrigerator kept getting colder and colder..27 deg. I replaced the evaporator fan blade because it was rubbing on the shroud and now i set my freezer and fridge to 4 and the refrigerator side is not cooling down below 59....I have power to the board. And everything checks out...I am frustrated....what am I missing?
Hey John Jorquez, After ruling out the basics such as food blocking vents and making sure the coils behind the fridge are clean... I’d watch this video: www.graceappliancediy.com/products/general-electric-wr55x10025-refrigerator-temperature-sensor It sounds like a refrigerator side temperature sensor issue based on the symptoms, but you’d need to confirm that with a meter. Since the fridge gets it cold air from the freezer, There is a damper door between the two cabinets that will open and close based on how cold the fridge needs to be. If the freezer is keeping things frozen rock solid and the fridge temp is all over the board then I would suspect either a damper or temp sensor issue on the fridge side. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance Refrigerator and freezer side have been empty for a week....due to this issue. I checked the damper door and it is open...also the refrigerator side sensor checked in at 15.6 ohms in a glass of ice water. Also my compressor was not working at all after I replaced all of those parts...then I pulled the main board off and noticed two hot spots on the Song Ghuan relay...part number 832A-1C-S...I re soldered the two hot spots and put it back on and the compressor started working. That was yesterday evening. The freezer got super cold and froze a bowl of water in about an hour and the refrigerator side was 27 degrees...the evaporator fan never shut off the entire time I was awake...several hours...then today I swapped out a thermistor and put a new fan blade on...plugged it back in and everything seems to work fine. All the fans are on. Compressor is on. All capacitors on main board look good as well. I notice that after about 10 minutes of plugging the refrigerator in the condenser or coil pack in the freezer has frost on it..it starts from the bottom and works up to about the 4th from top row. I also installed a 3 in 1 on this yesterday as well. Would that have anything to do with my problems?
@@johnjorquez4837 Hey John, The thing that concerns me about what you're dealing with is that the compressor seems to have blown out the solder joints on the board, perhaps the relay which you replaced with a 3&1. I have a feeling that the compressor is more than likely struggling to keep up. If you happen to have access to a clamp meter (i.e. amp draw meter) you can clip this on to one of the power wires going to the 3&1 you installed. This will measure the energy being used by the compressor. You should find about 1.5Amp draw when running. If you see a number more like 3+amps - it would indicate that the compressor is having to work too hard when running. This scenario will also blow out relays in short order as well as boards. Also, the fact that you are seeing frost on only some of the rungs in the evaporator inside the freezer is concerning and could also be a symptom of the failing compressor. If you'd like to send me a picture of the evaporator coils inside your freezer I am happy to take a look and confirm this issue for you. You should have roughly 90% of the evaporator covered in a light frost. If 4 rungs are not frosted after the compressor has been running for some time, that's a sign of a sealed system issue (i.e. failing compressor). feel free to send it to graceappliance@gmail.com Thanks, Andy
Hi Andy, First of all thank you for sharing all these videos. They are a great help. Could you perhaps help with something? My GE refrigerator has gone dead and I have the same symptoms as described in your "dead refrigerator" video. Lights on inside, front panel lights off, everything else dead. My main control board is burnt. The control board I have is a bit different and has three resistors, the 2 that you seem to describe for the fans and a third larger one which burned. Do you know what this third resistor corresponds to? My fridge is a PCG23MIMAFBB and the replacement reference of the control board seems to be WR55X26733. Do you know if WR55X26733 is compatible for 220-240V? (I live in Europe) In addition, before my fridge died, I also had issues with food freezing on the fresh food side. changing the fridge temperature would not help. I saw that this may be a damper issue - do you confirm? I've put all my pictures including the burnt control board (and the videos I took so I would know how to plug things back) on my google drive in case you want to have a look. drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1zDqzM9W8LEd-K7c7ZRfRQBCquqi7gTnR?ogsrc=32 Thanks in advance. Kind Regards, Christelle
Hi Christelle, thanks for the kind words. I'm so glad the videos are helpful. I'm sorry for the short reply, but I am on my phone and headed off to a call. Being away from my computer will make it tough to find some of the answers, but was able to see the pictures you posted. Most electronics are going to be US & Europe compatible. You should see somewhere on the model tag or the part itself that says 110/220v. That would put your mind at ease, but you're in good shape on that so long as you replace with the same part number. As for the resistor, yikes! That was dramatic. I'm afraid I don't know exactly what that goes to, but do not beleive it is related to either of the fan motors. There are no control board level specifics given from the manufacture beyond which wires go to which component. So, I'm afraid I'm not much greater help than that in this instance. Ideally we'd love to know what circuit the resistor relates to because we would want to check out that particular part for function too. However, many times a power surge or simply a control board failure will cause this failure. In any case, I think putting the new control board in should do the trick, but obviously the risk is there that you hace a faulty part casing a larger issue. I wish I could be of greater help!
Hi Andy, OK thanks. I'll try changing the board then and see what happens. Good to know it's not always related to a greater issue - which gives me hope :-). Thanks for taking the time to reply. Kind Regards, Christelle
Hello Eddie, I am a HVAC tech and my neighbor asked for help, his refrigerator stopped working, the model number is LWT8506A, I always bring an extra power cord with me and his refrigerator is working now but i had to bridge the connection on the control board located right next to the compressor but it is bypassing the defrost cycle which is kind of bad , I searched on the web but i did not find any info about this control board, I need help finding that.
Juan Amador hi Juan, Unfortunately, I’m not able to pull up anything in my systems either on this model. I think maybe it’s a model made for Mexico specifically, and maybe that’s the issue from my side. I’m not sure. Like you said, bypassing the defrost isn’t ideal, but leaving the compressor running full time isn’t good either. I’m not sure what to suggest for you as the next step unfortunately. You might start by unplugging the fridge, removing the control board and inspecting the board for any burned marks or obviously failed components.
I did various tests and the control board failed multiple. Not paying attention, I plugged the fridge back in with the J2 unplugged and it kicked on just like normal. Control panel lit up and everything. Sounded like a normal running fridge. Help!
Hey, you likely have a shorted evaporator fan motor. These often fail because of the moisture from the evaporator. If you wanted to double check this theory, you can unplug the fan motor inside the freezer and then plug the fridge back in. If it comes to life as it just did, you've isolated the evaporator fan motor as the culprit. Does that make sense? Thanks!
I was testing the fan voltage at board and pushed my prong in a bit further and my fridge kicked back on lol. Back connection ? Is the fridge good to go ?
Hi, I usually get my capacitors and relays from mouser.com As far as the tech manual, it will probably be of little help with rebuilding the board as it will only give you a general wiring schematic. You should be able to get the appropriate part numbers off of the specific parts on the board though. (small print on the capacitors and relays themselves) ruclips.net/video/zbmAqizE128/видео.html If you'll replace the 4 capacitors and all the relays that I mention in this video, i've had ok success with this. To be honest though - it's about 50/50% success due to either the relay having burned the board beyond repair or the coating they put on the board preventing component removal with out damaging the board. You need to be gentle enough to not damage the board when removing the parts, but then rough enough to break through the coating. Let me know if you have any questions! Andy
I have a problem with the GE refrigerator side-by-side I have power to the control board no lights inside fridge or freezer no display lights and compressor does not run I have replaced the board
Hi Andy, I have a GE GSH25JSTC SS unit and by following instructions in your video, I came to the conclusion that it is the main circuit board. the voltages to the fan circuits was erratic, going from 0 to 10 volts dc but never to 13 volts. also there is no power going to the compressor, I verified the compressor is ok by jumping the 2 wires on the light blue connector. it worked fine too. I have the new circuit board coming soon. do you think I should also get the fans ordered since the resistors that control the fans on the failed board were brownish in color. Great Videos !! THANK YOU !!
Hi Moytech, Yes, you would need to replace both fans if both have turned brown. The fans caused the board to fail and would do the same to the new board as well. The evaporator fans especially have the tendency to short out because they live in a cold wet environment. Let me know if you run in to any snags. Also, if you'll look in the description there are Amazon affiliate links that you can order the needed fans. Using these links helps the channel a ton. Thanks! Good luck!
@@GraceAppliance Well that explains it all I installed a used board and everything worked well, and suddenly it just quit working everything was off except for the interior lights. I have the new board in already but I will not install it until i replace those fan motors. Thanks for your help, and for your great videos, I am sure they are a blessing to a lot of people as they are for me .
Help Andy! I have a GE S-B-S Refrigerator (GSH25JSXB SS) that has stopped working. The freezer WAS working fine, but the fridge side wasn't cooling. We tried increasing the "coldness" on the front panel, but that didn't seem to help. I unplugged the unit, removed the back of the cardboard cover, & noticed the coils were dirty. I used a brush & vacuum cleaner to remove as much of the dirt, etc from the coils. I also cleaned out the drain plug, as it looked to be dirty as well. When I plugged the unit back in, the only power I had was the light bulb in the fridge. No power to the front touch pad, no compressor, no fans, nothing. I called a technician to come out & get it working. He looked at it but couldn't fix it. He suggested I get a new computer board for the back of the unit, which he located for me, & he told be how to install it. I bought the new computer board & installed it as he directed, & put everything back together. I plugged it into the wall socket but still no power, except the light bulb in the Fridge. I texted the technician & he said I may have a bad front touch panel, so I told him to get it to fix the unit. I texted him again a couple of days later & he hadn't ordered the new touch pad, so I started searching more information on the web & found your videos. I've tried to follow you step by step but I'm getting some low readings off the new Control board so I don't know if one bad part is cancelling them out. I've got 120 V from the wall plug to the control board, but I'm not getting the 13-15 V to the other locations. I've removed & checked the evaporator fan via a 9V battery & it works, so I re-installed it. Testing the Fan Voltage on J2, I'm getting 5.3 - 5.6 V; & the same readings on the front touch panel, etc. Any suggestions?!? Thanks - Tony
Andy, thanks for the instructions. I recently replaced the control board on a dead GE side by side. Got it back to working although now it appears the evaporator and condenser fan continually runs. Is this normal? I do hear the compressor cycle on and off as normal. Temp/resistance readings on the thermometers were 14 (frig), 30 and 30.
Hi Tom! Could you please send me the model number for your refrigerator? Also, the fist 5 digits of your serial number. It's on a silver or white sticker inside the fridge section. Thanks!
Thanks Tom, I was checking that info against the install instructions as some require a slight modification to the wiring harness on install, but yours does not appear to be impacted. As far as the evaporator fan (I. E. Inside the freezer) fan, I would pay that zero attention as it will run whenever it is needed to circulate air inside the compartments as needed based on the freezer and fridge temp. The condenser fan (I. E. The fan closest to the compressor behind the fridge) however should only run when your compressor is running. Some fridges will have fans that run when the compressor does not based on ambient temps in the room, but to my knowledge none of the GE side by sides fit this bill. I'd verify that you are not just hearing the evaporator fan running and it's not the condenser fan as you typically will not hear a condenser fan running without being up close and personal with it. As far as the sensor readings, I wouldn't be able to say if those are reading correctly or not as those readings change based on the actual temperature of the sensor. So, you'd need to know the true temp inside the cabinet and then compare that to the resistance reading, if that makes sense?
Awesome video. Informative with great production quality. So my GE is totally dead, no lights at all, nothing. Tested volts at outlet, going into filter, out of filter, and at the control board. All 120. So she’s getting power yet nothing is on. Should I continue checking control board or go in a different route?
Thanks! So, I'd start by unplugging the front board from the refrigerator. Often a shorted front touch panel will give this symptom. If it comes to life after power is restored to the fridge, it's a bad front touch panel. Another thing to try is to unplug the fridge, wrap gently on each relay on the control board with a screwdriver handle. Sometimes this will break free a stuck relay on the board and once power is restored it will come to life. Now, even so the board would need to be replaced. But, it speeds up diagnosis time if it works for you.
GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos interestly it was the back panel. Everything was out on the fridge (incl lights), and the back panel was getting power. But it was NOT sending anything out. Replace the panel and it works like a charm. Thanks again for your videos!
Hi Andy. I am having a problem where my GE SXS has all the fans running but the compressor isn’t running. I have tested the compressor start relay, capacitor and compressor resistance and all tested good. I tested the control board as shown in this video. I get good voltage when I check across the orange wire and line. When I check across the orange wire and compressor I get no voltage. Would this be a sign of a bad control board?
Hey Dave, Sorry to hear about the issues! If you're getting 120vac to the 2 wires before the compressor relays, the control board is going its job. However, if you do not get voltage after the compressor relays, the relays are bad. Does that makes sense?
Sorry, I was on the road and just reread your comment. I agree, if your condenser fan is running, the compressor should also be running. You could also test your compressor circuit by unplugging the fridge, install a jumper wire from the L1 (I.e. the furthest right on the light blue plug) and the furthest left on the light blue plug. This is your compressor circuit. Then plug in the fridge. This applies 120v to the compressor and it should run and this point. If so, it’s a failed control board. Be sure to unplug the fridge before removing the jumper wire.
Would a bad control board cause the temperature control panel on the front to quit working? I have the same scenario that you described. The only thing that comes on are the lights in the refrigerator. The lights on the control board are not coming on anymore. This all happened the other night after the electricity went out.
Hi Troy, I definately can. But, to determine which board is at fault, you'll need to unplug the front control board and see if the fridge comes on at that point. If so, the front display board has failed. If not, check for 12-13.5vdc between the red and black wires coming to the front panel. There is also a connector by the freezer hinge that can corrode and cause this issue. Let me know what you find once the front board is unplugged.
@@GraceAppliance Is that the J-4 connection you show at 5:12 that disconnects the front control panel? You're saying if I unplug that and the refrigerator comes on it is the front control board?
GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos I replaces the back control board and it came on but now the display on the front where you control the temperature is just blinking 0. What do I do?
Replaced the ice depenser solenoid thinking that was the problem. Still will not depense ice and the inside lights sometimes come on dim or not at all. Is it the touch pad ? Don't understand the connection with the ice not depensing the interior light not working properly
@@karlbird60 Hi Karl, It sounds more like a failed main board. If the touch pad is switching correctly back and forth between the water and ice function, I wouldn't suspect the touch panel. I've seen only a very small number of these fail where i've seen many many main controls fail. Your board number is: WR55X11098 www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr55x11098-refrigerator-electronic-control-board-genuine-original-equipment-manufacturer-oem-part But, I'll also add that this same symptom can come from a short (typically happening in one of the motors) If it were mine, before buying a new board, i'd want to check the auger motor as well (i.e. the motor which turns the cork screw part that dispenses the ice cubes) If you find that the lights only dim when attempting to dispense ice, I would disconnect the power wires coming to the auger motor, insert my meter leads on these wires, then attempt to call for ice. If you find that you have 120VAC to these wires, the lights no longer dim, it would indicate the main board is doing it's job. I would then replace the auger motor. If the lights still dim or no voltage, I'd then suspect a failed main board. Your Auger can be found here: www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr60x10331-motor-auger-dc I hope this helps, Andy
@@GraceAppliance FYI _ the problem was the board based on the fact the interior lights reacted independently from the ice i.e. auger motor. Thanks for your help.
What should I check if the voltage to the main board is off? The meter reads 10-20V to the board instead of the expected 120V. Door light turns on but nothing else works.
Hey, if you’re not getting 120 volts as shown at 2:43sec of this video, you need to suspect faulty wiring between the wall plug and the control board. Since your lights appear to be working ok I’d rule out the main refrigerator cord. However, These lights are on a separate circuit than your control board. So, with the fridge UNPLUGGED I’d check the plug near the compressor where the main power cord attaches to. You’ll see a bundle of wires there. Unplug this connector, inspect all of the surrounding wires for damage or lose connections. Rodents (especially during cold weather) tend to make homes out of this space in refrigerators because it’s warmer and they like the taste of the wire insulation. Be sure it’s not connected to power while you’re poking around in there. If you do have a stripped wire for some reason, you can easily shock yourself. Ask me how I know! :) Let me know if you have any questions. Andy
@@GraceAppliance Thank you so much. I unplugged, cleaned and plugged those cables and power was back to normal. The board was still bad though, thanks to your videos I could diagnose it with confidence and after installing the replacement the fridge is back to normal.
Horacio Gonzalez Larrain awesome! I’m so glad you got it figured out and my video could help provide an extra boost of confidence to do the repair yourself. If you do hit any snags once you get the board just let me know. Thanks and stay in touch! Andy If you’ve found this ad-free information helpful, please consider a $1 donation to help support the RUclips channel at: www.paypal.com/donate/?token=p_-S29vsNHZsyxBt-llMSH_zJe4utLKcfvVRiZJHP0vIM5ldZMsdxPh9xywqckuI65fdq0&country.x=US&locale.x=US
I have a ge profile artica refrigerator. Lights and temperature controls are blank. However temperature numbers come up on the temperature adjustments. I blew out the condenser.
Hi Andy, I have to tell you that love your videos and I hope you can help me to diagnose my issue with GE refrigirator. I have SxS GE refrigerator. Based on your video I detected that control board got burned , so I went ahead and replaced it today. It did not solve the problem. It is not completely dead. My refrigirator does have light but the fan and compressor on the back of it is not running. The voaporating fan inside the frizzer seems running just fine but not the one that is next to the compressor. I also replaced the starting kit that is next to the compressor. I tested the compressor and it seems to be working. I do hear some buzz noise for a second or two as soon as I try to plug in the refrigerator. Also, I tested that It doesn’t start after I unplug J 4 from the main board. What would be my next step to test? Thank you.
Hey, the fact that it starts up after unplugging the J4 connector tells me that your fridge also has a failed (shorted) front touch panel. You’ll need to replace that and will be good to go. If you’ll use the link in the description to purchase your part, that helps a ton and is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Andy If you found the information helpful, please consider a $1 donation to help our RUclips channel. It’s greatly appreciated. www.paypal.com/donate/?token=p_-S29vsNHZsyxBt-llMSH_zJe4utLKcfvVRiZJHP0vIM5ldZMsdxPh9xywqckuI65fdq0&country.x=US&locale.x=US
Andy, when I unplug J4 it Does NOT start refrigirator. I have i feeling that the start relay that I replaced is not good. I just hear a humming noise for a second or two but that about it. It doesn’t start the compressor.
Viktoriya Almazan I’m sorry, I misread that portion. Disregard about the front touch panel. Now, it could be that you have a seized up compressor which would cause this symptom. It’s easiest to test with an amp (I.e. clamp) meter on one of the 2 wires leading to the compressor relay. It should read about 1.5A, but if it’s locked up would read about 10A for several seconds. Another way to test is to unplug the fridge, unplug the relay from the compressor and replug in your fridge. If it starts up, it sounds like a seized compressor. Let me know what you find.
@@GraceAppliance I unplugged the refrigirator and the start relay but nothing has changed. Is it normal for overhead protector relay to make a little noise coming from inside when I shake? My old overhead had this sound and the new one that I replaced has this " baby toy like" sound
Viktoriya Almazan yes, they do make a little rattle, but you shouldn’t hear things rolling around inside the case when you shake. A baby rattle is a good description of how it shouldn’t sound. With your fridge relay unplugged from the compressor, measure the resistance between the 3 pins in all combinations and tell me what you read. Also, check each pin to see if you have resistance between the pin and a copper pipe leading to the compressor. Let me know what you find there too. Thanks!
I have a Maytag refrigerator, model number MFI2269VEM2. Nothing is working except the inside lights. The front display including the temperature control is not working. If I push any button on the front display, all indicator lights light up, but when I take my finger off the button, it stops. I had a technician come out and diagnose it - he said that the Dispenser/Control panel in the front was not working. I ordered that part and replaced it, but it still is not working. I am thinking that it is the main control board in the back, but as mentioned earlier, when I touch any button in the front, it does light up but then goes back out. Does that mean that the control board in back is good? Another note: A couple of weeks ago the compressor was kicking on and off, so I cleaned the condensing coil and that appeared to take care of that. I am not sure if these two are related. Can you please give me some advice? Thank you.
Hi Larry, Sorry to hear about your issues with the fridge. I agree with you that it must be the main control at this point. This part would also cause the compressor symptom like you mentioned. I can count on one hand the number of failed touch panels that I’ve needed to replace and can’t count the number of main boards I’ve needed to replace. While I haven’t come across this particular (maybe ever) my first guess would be the main board vs the touch panel. Here’s a thread that discusses that specific issue on your particular model. You’ll find it talks about how it’s a tough one to diagnose because of almost zero manufacturer troubleshooting steps. appliantology.org/topic/57907-maytag-model-mfi2269veb2-refrigerator-control-panel-stopped-working-as-did-all-cooling/ Sorry I couldn’t be more help though!
Thank so much. The main control board had a little bit of a burn small to it, so that helps to confirm that's the problem. what was throwing me off was that I had power( all displays lit up) on the touch panel when I pushed on any of the buttons, and knowing it controlled the compressor (temp control).
update, I installed the main board. the evaporator fan is now working but compressor still not running. The touch panel has temp frig and freezer is lit up. it looks like error message. The freezer says PEO the frig temp says 000. If I push the temp up and down buttons at the same time it reads across PE H20. This is the only part that will light up. if I push the water lever water will come out and the light where the water comes out at the dispenser is continually on. Do you have any idea where I go from here?
@@larrytallent7879 hey Larry, that's a good sign actually. You will need to program / calibrate the board to match the fridge. Here are instructions for that. www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/attachment.php?attachmentid=22332&d=1431789892
Hi Andy, my refrigerator isn't working. all the light is on. Inverter board is good. control board likes good but there is green light in the control board flashing? refrigerator is GE Model no pfe29psdass. please help. thank you
Muhammad Afghanzada Hey, the first thing I’d check is that it’s hasn’t been accidentally been put in to demo mode. If you want to send me an email, I can send you a tech sheet for this fridge and it will help with putting it in service mode and identifying any codes that would help in finding the right direction to go with diagnosis. GraceAppliance@gmail.com
@@GraceAppliance wow tha that wa s quick, I was able to found out that 7.5 was normal. My inverter board blew, it's working now, I hope. Thanks for your help the video wa s great
@@alanrink4268 hey, you're most welcome. I'm so glad you got it figured out! (For others that may have issues) Yes, the main boards only job in the case of inverter boards is to provide some low DC voltage to tell the inverter board to send the voltage to the compressor. The compressor is variable speed and the main board may send 3 different voltages (say, 3.5v, 5vdc, 6.5vdc) which the inverter board then translates this signal in to Low, Med, High compressor speed by then providing the appropriate volts AC to the compressor. (say 60v, 90v, 120v AC)
Thanks for fast response. I actually like your probes that you use on most videos when you test control board connector pins ( back pin) leads They are little bit bended Can you please let me know which ones are those that you use everywhere They are not regular needle probes but insulated but flexible Please let me know their exact model Thanks
Hey, I am not sure of the brand. I picked them up at my parts house years back and don't know where I could find them again. They were pretty nice, but have worn out since making the videos.
Hi Andy, I have a GE sxs. Lights and fans are on but not the compressor. I noticed the front panel on the dispenser is not on and when I plug the fridge in, you can almost here the compressor want to click on, but then goes silent. Thoughts?
Hey Joseph, I'd start with this video. ruclips.net/video/ViFpwH6_WrM/видео.html If you unplug the front control panel and the compressor comes on, it's going to be a shorted front touch panel that's the issue. Let me know what you find. Thanks, Andy
Joseph Stevens ok, unplug that connector at the main board (j1 I think) and measure for voltage on those two pins on the main board. If you’re still getting fluctuation on the voltage like this, replace the main board. Thanks!
Hi Andy, I have a GE fridge model gshs9ngybcss. Nothing works except interior lights. Using your method, tested good for 120V AC going into board. But no 12-14V DC on J4-3,J4-1 going to touch panel. Have now tried 2 other new Main Control Boards and all show same. I can't believe all 3 boards are bad. Is there a fuse common to all somewhere else outside of board? Would you have any other suggestions.
Hey j k, Sorry to hear about your headaches with that! Just to clarify, you're going to want to test J4 plug on the 2nd & 3rd pins. 2nd & 3rd from the left. It should be a red wire on pin #2 and a black wire on pin #3. If you're getting 12-14 volts DC there, your board is doing it's job. There isn't a fuse or a reason why the board would stop sending voltage to that board for any reason that I can think of. (also, not to be rude here...but make sure you have set your meter to DC and not AC, it's worth mentioning) One super common issue with the front board (and most common reason for mis-diagnosis) is the plug connector near the freezer hinge. They get corroded or loose and the voltage from the board doesn't make it all the way to the control board. The solution if you find this plug is at fault is to cut the wires on either side of the plug (with the refrigerator unplugged obviously) and directly solder the wires together, thus eliminating the plug and all the connection issues that go with it. Let me know what you find with testing the pins I referenced above and we can go from there. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance On mine the J4 plug from top down is a black, red, and blue wire. I see that the schematic has black and blue as COMM. In DC mode and one lead on red and other on either black or blue, I just get fluctuating values b/w 0V and 0.5V with power cord plugged in. There is also a chirping sound all the time.
Ahhh, gotcha now. Sorry about that. Your board is slightly different from the one shown with respect to the wiring diagram. I’m not able to locate the wiring diagram for your model. If you have it, I’m happy to take a look if you want to email it to GraceAppliance@gmail.com Does your fridge run currently or is this keeping it from running? I’d start by unplugging the J4 connector and measure for the voltage straight from the board (same pins as you checked) and see if the reading changes. I’m wanting to rule out a shorted front touch panel. This will give symptoms like you’re having. If it is shorted, often it will keep the fridge from functioning and you can diagnose this by unplugging the J4 and the fridge then starts up once that short has been eliminated.
j k thanks! got the schematic from you. I appreciate it. You’ll want to test between J4-1 & J4-2 (red and black) This should be 12-14vdc. Let me know what voltage you get there. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance Nothing except interior lights work . Just pulled out the J2 plug and can hear fridge coming to life. Pulled out J4 without success and put back in. Now finally also getting 13.4V DC on J4 plug to front panel once J2 plug pulled. Touch panel lights are on also.
when testing j2 and j4 plugs my meter signal jumps all over, 120 volts in but no steady signal on j2 and j4, i take it as a bad board right? Please someone can answer this ?
Hi, If the light on the icemaker is on, your power cord is OK. If the lights are out inside the refrigerator AND the freezer (and both stopped working at the same time), I'd suspect some type of wiring issue and focus in on the plug behind the refrigerator where the cord from the wall plugs in. Keeping in mind, on a GE side by side, the lights do not run through your control board. However, if both lights started acting up separately, I'd check first that the bulbs themselves are OK, the door switches are functioning OK, or at the housing that the light screws in to. Often, the bulbs are screwed in too tight which shorts out the housing. Also, door switches can give this symptom, but... To check voltage to the bulb housing you'd need a voltmeter. Do you have one? Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance my refrigerator is not working at all the only sign of power is the ice maker light. The compressor, fan, and the front display doesn't come on. It's completely dead besides the ice maker light. I test the power going to the control board and it's reading 120v.
Hey Bobby, It sounds like a failed main control board (behind your refrigerator), but I would first check to make sure your front control panel has not failed before replacing that. Here is a video on how to test the front dispenser control board: ruclips.net/video/ViFpwH6_WrM/видео.html If the main control board is not sending voltage to your front dispenser control board, replace the main control board (behind the refrigerator) and that should solve your problem. I hope that helps and let me know if you have any questions! Andy
Chryiat 200 hey, if the lights in your fridge are working, you can rule out a bad socket at the wall and bad cord. With the fridge unplugged, I’d inspect for damaged wiring near the compressor. It will be near where the power cable from the wall comes in. If you don’t see any damaged wiring there, let me know and we can investigate further. Thanks!
GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Video I have a Maytag model MF12569VEB2. The control panel locked up. The last reading were LL on the freezer temperature and 8 on the refrigerator temperature and now the screen is blank. The refrigerator still seem to be cooling. Can the control board in the back of the refrigerator be bad and the refrigerator still cool?
Victor Hudson hey Victor, I have not come across these particular numbers/letters on the display before. However, it does sound like a poor connection to the front board. This can be caused by a failed control board, a bad touch panel in the front or a poor connection. I’d start by first unplugging your fridge for 3 minutes. Restore power to the fridge and see if it resolves the issue. If not, I’d check for the connection under the top left hinge (left if looking from the front of the fridge) unplug this connection and reconnect 10x. Inspect for pinched or broken wires. You have also have a similar connection behind the kickpanel near the bottom of the refrigerator. Let me know what you find. Thanks! Andy
Phillip Song hey Phillip, If your interior lights are on in the refrigerator, you can rule out a bad breaker. The breaker is the resettable fuse that the incoming power comes through via your electrical box which is typically located in your garage. Does this answer your question?
@@samchowdry hey, It sounds like a failed control board to me. I'd start with this video: ruclips.net/video/ViFpwH6_WrM/видео.html This will help you determine if it's the main control board or the front touch panel that's failed. It's likely going to be the main control board, but you'll want to rule out the front touch panel as well to be sure. I've also got a video showing visual inspections you can do on the main control that may help. Thanks and let me know if you have any questions.
GSE23GSKECSS on my third control board and second inverter. Board has power but fails all other tests. Light on in the unit, but nothing else works. HELP!
Hey Will, Start here. ruclips.net/video/ViFpwH6_WrM/видео.html Unplug the connector for the front touch panel and see if the fridge comes on. If so, you have a failed front touch panel.
Fridge didn't come on and I do not have proper voltage at the control panel or on the control board where it plugs in. Is it possible I've gotten two bad boards from ge?
@@willthurmer6080 You say you have power to the main board. What voltage do you show for this test? 1:30sec of this video ruclips.net/video/PhQKqF5MgDE/видео.html The probability of getting 2 bad boards is almost 0% I think.
Compressor not running and Condenser fan not running. the other fan inside is running ,I think i did all of the checks on your video's where am i missing it at
Hey, I'd start with checking your temperature sensors and if you have a GE side by side, this video should help if you haven't already checked them with a meter: ruclips.net/video/CG-2FnQ43Hs/видео.html&lc=UgxbUipYtmqDLkcufCJ4AaABAg The condenser fan near the compressor will run only when the compressor runs. The compressor will run only when it's "too warm" in the fridge or freezer. If the sensors are not good, the board never gets the message to turn on the compressor. So, i'd start there. It could also be a failed control board. If you wanted to reply with your model number it would help me with my suggestions. Also, be sure that you've unplugged the fridge from the wall for 5 minutes to reset the control board if you haven't done this already too. Thanks, Andy
I haven't heard of brandsmart before, but I know that Geek Squad and Dish Network are now sending their guys out as appliance technicians. A&E factory service apparently bought out Sears appliance service, so there's that. Here in Texas there is no state license needed to perform appliance repair so I've come in behind some really ugly situations. Are you a tech as well?
Hi Everybody, Welcome!
If you have technical questions please check out www.Patreon.com/GraceAppliance
By becoming a channel supporter, you'll get priority response to technical questions, technical data sheet requests, and help support the channel so I can produce more repair videos.
Thanks so much! Andy
Andy I was lucky to find your video. My frig. stopped working and I was quoted $ 500 to fix. I searched and found your video with the issue that I was experiencing. I watched several times also the one about front control panel. I decided to order the order rear board and I just installed it today and the frig. is working great. Thank you for your instructional videos.
Great news! You're most welcome.
In my case there was no visual sign of something burnt or any capacitor damaged. I followed your videos and decided to replace the main control board. Worked great!! Thank you for your video! It is very clear, visual and well documented.❤
You have earned a subscriber . I appreciate the tone and inflection of your voice, explains clearly and without to munch information. EXCELLENT WORK. Bravo Zulu
Using this video, my 12 year old daughter and I were able to diagnose and repair the main control board our GE refrigerator which is 11 years old but still looks brand new. Having no experience using a voltmeter or in appliance repair, your video was so simple to follow! The part cost $220 with next day shipping. Thank you!
Great work to you and your daughter Marie! Glad to have been some help. Stay in touch.
no one but you helped me andy, but you were perfect. It worked exactly as you said .your directions were perfect. i was a little nervous because the part and shipping m was 135.00, but well worth it , other than a repairman. Thanks again andy and keep up the great work
Awesome! I'm so glad it worked out well. Thanks for the kind words! Stay in touch.
Yes, this guy is great at making instructional videos. Thank you for the lessons.
Andy, I want to sincerely thank you for posting this valuable information, and finding this video via the search bar with the GE model number was how I found your video. My friend Fran was actually looking for another refrigerator after a power outage rendered their GE device dead, except for the interior light, and her and her kid's food was steadily thawing in this Louisiana heat. By following your specific directions, I'm pleased to say it's fixed!! Thank you and I've subscribed to your channel.
Hi Andy, thanks for sharing your expertise with all of us. We're still trying to figure out what is wrong with our GE Side by Side Refrigerator, and you are the ONLY help we have received. We phoned GE and they wouldn't help or give any phone assistance....so thanks so much!
Man! I'm sorry to hear you're still dealing with it!
Keep me posted of you run in to any issues I can help with. Glad to help where I'm able.
I fixed my GE Stainless Steel Side-by-side fridge in about 15 minutes after receiving the new control board from Amazon! SO easy. Cost $154 + my time vs. around $485 quoted to me by a local appliance repair shop here in Austin. I also vacuumed out all the lint surrounding the compressor housing and hoses and wires. Fridge is 10 years old. My 14-yr old son assisted the "surgery" and got to see how much money you can save doing it yourself with RUclips & Amazon & basic tools. He's super smart so he could have easily done this himself. He's up next...lol. Thank you!
Awesome job Brian! You’re welcome. Stay in touch!
Thank you so much for explaining and visually showing each step and the flow chart was extremely helpful.
Clearly and to the points instructions. Thanks. Subscribed.
this guy is a real technician
Thank you Christian! I appreciate that. It just takes having spent loads of money on my own mistakes in the past. HAHA! You always remember the information that cost you money in the past.
Great series. I am watching it for a KDK wine fridge which is problematic. I have 220v going to the board. I can bypass the board and power up the compressor. Next step: checking the other elements with the MM this week. As the board looks clean on both sides I suspect faulty relays... Thanks for putting this video series together.
Awesome work! If you think about it keep us updated with the outcome and if you have any questions.
Your fridge runs on 220v? I know certain countries will use 220 vs 110, but I've never had to work on a 220.
@@GraceAppliance well, 110v and 220v don't discriminate : they are both deadly ;) thanks for the encouragements. I will come back here and report after I test everything and replace the control board relays...
Thank you for sharing the videos and the advice, I followed your suggestion of replacing capacitors which fixed the problem.
It was the main control board...thank you very much!
Question- Lets say I wasn't watching your video to figure out which leads I must check voltages through. How would someone find that information? In other words, how do I know that I need to check two leads for any particular voltage, resistance, ect.
Hi, each model has a specific tech sheet which (if you’re fortunate) will include some of this info. Appliance tech sheets are notoriously vague, hidden or simply not included with the machine. They vary wildly from very helpful to complete garbage as far as their usefulness.
For GE side by sides if you have temp controls inside the refrigerator section, it’s often tucked inside that console if you remove it. You’d know which leads to check by reading the wiring diagram. Sometimes you’ll have resistance specs for various components and sometimes these are integrated in to the wiring diagram directly.
@@GraceAppliance Thank you, this is very helpful. I don't have a GE, but the lessons I'm learning from your channel are very useful.
Great Video, Thank you very much, saved me a lot of money and I fixed it myself. You Rock!
Many Thanks to Grace Appliance for their 8 Videos on Diagnosing The GE Refrigerator Control Board. ... Thanks so much for these 7 excellent videos. They clearly showed me how to access the needed places so I could conduct successful testing. These are great!!! Signed Henry Gurr
@Grace Appliance, Hi Andy, Nice video explaining how to diagnose. I have a dead fridge issue, which started happening after a power outage. Only the inside lights would come ON, with no power on the door panel and the compressor and fan not coming ON.
I have tired J3 and J2 test for voltage, it gives random reading (fluctuating). In the middle of the J2, J3 reading the compressor and fan turns ON and light comes on the panel and the fridge starts working. J2 and J3 reading on the running fridge gives 16.44 consistently. If I unplug and and plug back in I get the dead fridge again. If I check the reading on J2/J3, plug and unplug the connectors the fridge starts to work again. Not sure what to think. The issue started after a bad outage we had about 3 weeks ago. Visually the harness looks fine, nothing is loose.
Appreciate your insight as to what the problem could be.
Thank you for sharing. Excellent knowledge
You're most welcome! Thanks for watching.
Another Great Video! Thank You!! Liked !! Subbed !!
Hi how there is not power going to compressor ? Iplease i need an answer
Hi, please send your model number which is found on a tag inside the fridge section.
Thanks
Andy - thanks for your videos! Was trouble-shooting my GSL25JFXBLB with a “dead” front panel after a power outage. Pulled the J-plug in the main control board but nothing happened. Put the J-plug back in and continued watching your video, when a few minutes later the fridge started running and the lights on the front panel came on. Did me pulling the J-plug act as a sort of reset button? Either way, thanks for your clear instructions for trouble shooting!
Hi Andy. I have a GE gsl25jfpbs side by side.....freezer stopped freezing and then by the next day the refrigerator was warm....I have replaced the evaporator fan motor, heater, bottom freezer thermistor and top one and the thermostat. I plugged it back in and it ran non stop. The freezer worked and the refrigerator kept getting colder and colder..27 deg. I replaced the evaporator fan blade because it was rubbing on the shroud and now i set my freezer and fridge to 4 and the refrigerator side is not cooling down below 59....I have power to the board. And everything checks out...I am frustrated....what am I missing?
Hey John Jorquez,
After ruling out the basics such as food blocking vents and making sure the coils behind the fridge are clean...
I’d watch this video: www.graceappliancediy.com/products/general-electric-wr55x10025-refrigerator-temperature-sensor
It sounds like a refrigerator side temperature sensor issue based on the symptoms, but you’d need to confirm that with a meter.
Since the fridge gets it cold air from the freezer, There is a damper door between the two cabinets that will open and close based on how cold the fridge needs to be. If the freezer is keeping things frozen rock solid and the fridge temp is all over the board then I would suspect either a damper or temp sensor issue on the fridge side.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance
Refrigerator and freezer side have been empty for a week....due to this issue. I checked the damper door and it is open...also the refrigerator side sensor checked in at 15.6 ohms in a glass of ice water. Also my compressor was not working at all after I replaced all of those parts...then I pulled the main board off and noticed two hot spots on the Song Ghuan relay...part number 832A-1C-S...I re soldered the two hot spots and put it back on and the compressor started working. That was yesterday evening. The freezer got super cold and froze a bowl of water in about an hour and the refrigerator side was 27 degrees...the evaporator fan never shut off the entire time I was awake...several hours...then today I swapped out a thermistor and put a new fan blade on...plugged it back in and everything seems to work fine. All the fans are on. Compressor is on. All capacitors on main board look good as well. I notice that after about 10 minutes of plugging the refrigerator in the condenser or coil pack in the freezer has frost on it..it starts from the bottom and works up to about the 4th from top row. I also installed a 3 in 1 on this yesterday as well. Would that have anything to do with my problems?
@@johnjorquez4837 Hey John, The thing that concerns me about what you're dealing with is that the compressor seems to have blown out the solder joints on the board, perhaps the relay which you replaced with a 3&1.
I have a feeling that the compressor is more than likely struggling to keep up.
If you happen to have access to a clamp meter (i.e. amp draw meter) you can clip this on to one of the power wires going to the 3&1 you installed. This will measure the energy being used by the compressor. You should find about 1.5Amp draw when running. If you see a number more like 3+amps - it would indicate that the compressor is having to work too hard when running.
This scenario will also blow out relays in short order as well as boards.
Also, the fact that you are seeing frost on only some of the rungs in the evaporator inside the freezer is concerning and could also be a symptom of the failing compressor.
If you'd like to send me a picture of the evaporator coils inside your freezer I am happy to take a look and confirm this issue for you. You should have roughly 90% of the evaporator covered in a light frost. If 4 rungs are not frosted after the compressor has been running for some time, that's a sign of a sealed system issue (i.e. failing compressor).
feel free to send it to graceappliance@gmail.com
Thanks,
Andy
Hi Andy,
First of all thank you for sharing all these videos. They are a great help.
Could you perhaps help with something? My GE refrigerator has gone dead and I have the same symptoms as described in your "dead refrigerator" video. Lights on inside, front panel lights off, everything else dead.
My main control board is burnt. The control board I have is a bit different and has three resistors, the 2 that you seem to describe for the fans and a third larger one which burned.
Do you know what this third resistor corresponds to?
My fridge is a PCG23MIMAFBB and the replacement reference of the control board seems to be WR55X26733.
Do you know if WR55X26733 is compatible for 220-240V? (I live in Europe)
In addition, before my fridge died, I also had issues with food freezing on the fresh food side. changing the fridge temperature would not help.
I saw that this may be a damper issue - do you confirm?
I've put all my pictures including the burnt control board (and the videos I took so I would know how to plug things back) on my google drive in case you want to have a look. drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1zDqzM9W8LEd-K7c7ZRfRQBCquqi7gTnR?ogsrc=32
Thanks in advance. Kind Regards, Christelle
Hi Christelle, thanks for the kind words. I'm so glad the videos are helpful.
I'm sorry for the short reply, but I am on my phone and headed off to a call. Being away from my computer will make it tough to find some of the answers, but was able to see the pictures you posted.
Most electronics are going to be US & Europe compatible. You should see somewhere on the model tag or the part itself that says 110/220v. That would put your mind at ease, but you're in good shape on that so long as you replace with the same part number.
As for the resistor, yikes! That was dramatic.
I'm afraid I don't know exactly what that goes to, but do not beleive it is related to either of the fan motors. There are no control board level specifics given from the manufacture beyond which wires go to which component. So, I'm afraid I'm not much greater help than that in this instance.
Ideally we'd love to know what circuit the resistor relates to because we would want to check out that particular part for function too. However, many times a power surge or simply a control board failure will cause this failure.
In any case, I think putting the new control board in should do the trick, but obviously the risk is there that you hace a faulty part casing a larger issue.
I wish I could be of greater help!
Hi Andy, OK thanks. I'll try changing the board then and see what happens. Good to know it's not always related to a greater issue - which gives me hope :-). Thanks for taking the time to reply. Kind Regards, Christelle
Excellent video
I thank you for your videos ...
You're most welcome Francisco! Thanks for watching and i'm glad they're helpful.
Hello Eddie, I am a HVAC tech and my neighbor asked for help, his refrigerator stopped working, the model number is LWT8506A, I always bring an extra power cord with me and his refrigerator is working now but i had to bridge the connection on the control board located right next to the compressor but it is bypassing the defrost cycle which is kind of bad , I searched on the web but i did not find any info about this control board, I need help finding that.
Juan Amador hi Juan,
Unfortunately, I’m not able to pull up anything in my systems either on this model. I think maybe it’s a model made for Mexico specifically, and maybe that’s the issue from my side. I’m not sure.
Like you said, bypassing the defrost isn’t ideal, but leaving the compressor running full time isn’t good either.
I’m not sure what to suggest for you as the next step unfortunately.
You might start by unplugging the fridge, removing the control board and inspecting the board for any burned marks or obviously failed components.
@@GraceAppliance , Well thanks anyways, if you find some additional info just let me know
Thank you sir
Great video
I did various tests and the control board failed multiple. Not paying attention, I plugged the fridge back in with the J2 unplugged and it kicked on just like normal. Control panel lit up and everything. Sounded like a normal running fridge. Help!
Hey, you likely have a shorted evaporator fan motor. These often fail because of the moisture from the evaporator. If you wanted to double check this theory, you can unplug the fan motor inside the freezer and then plug the fridge back in. If it comes to life as it just did, you've isolated the evaporator fan motor as the culprit. Does that make sense?
Thanks!
I was testing the fan voltage at board and pushed my prong in a bit further and my fridge kicked back on lol. Back connection ? Is the fridge good to go ?
Where to buy Relays, Capacitors, Resistors and Service Manual so to repair the Mother Board.
Hi, I usually get my capacitors and relays from mouser.com
As far as the tech manual, it will probably be of little help with rebuilding the board as it will only give you a general wiring schematic. You should be able to get the appropriate part numbers off of the specific parts on the board though. (small print on the capacitors and relays themselves)
ruclips.net/video/zbmAqizE128/видео.html
If you'll replace the 4 capacitors and all the relays that I mention in this video, i've had ok success with this. To be honest though - it's about 50/50% success due to either the relay having burned the board beyond repair or the coating they put on the board preventing component removal with out damaging the board.
You need to be gentle enough to not damage the board when removing the parts, but then rough enough to break through the coating.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Andy
I have a problem with the GE refrigerator side-by-side I have power to the control board no lights inside fridge or freezer no display lights and compressor does not run I have replaced the board
Hi Andy, I have a GE GSH25JSTC SS unit and by following instructions in your video, I came to the
conclusion that it is the main circuit board. the voltages to the fan circuits was erratic, going from 0 to
10 volts dc but never to 13 volts. also there is no power going to the compressor, I verified the compressor is ok by jumping the 2 wires on the light blue connector. it worked fine too. I have the new circuit board coming soon. do you think I should also get the fans ordered since the resistors that control the fans on the failed board were brownish in color. Great Videos !! THANK YOU !!
Hi Moytech,
Yes, you would need to replace both fans if both have turned brown. The fans caused the board to fail and would do the same to the new board as well. The evaporator fans especially have the tendency to short out because they live in a cold wet environment.
Let me know if you run in to any snags. Also, if you'll look in the description there are Amazon affiliate links that you can order the needed fans. Using these links helps the channel a ton. Thanks!
Good luck!
@@GraceAppliance Well that explains it all
I installed a used board and everything worked well, and suddenly it just quit working everything was off except for the interior lights. I have the new board in already but I will not install it until i replace those fan motors.
Thanks for your help, and for your great videos, I am sure they are a blessing to a lot of people as they are for me .
Help Andy! I have a GE S-B-S Refrigerator (GSH25JSXB SS) that has stopped working. The freezer WAS working fine, but the fridge side wasn't cooling. We tried increasing the "coldness" on the front panel, but that didn't seem to help. I unplugged the unit, removed the back of the cardboard cover, & noticed the coils were dirty. I used a brush & vacuum cleaner to remove as much of the dirt, etc from the coils. I also cleaned out the drain plug, as it looked to be dirty as well. When I plugged the unit back in, the only power I had was the light bulb in the fridge. No power to the front touch pad, no compressor, no fans, nothing.
I called a technician to come out & get it working. He looked at it but couldn't fix it. He suggested I get a new computer board for the back of the unit, which he located for me, & he told be how to install it. I bought the new computer board & installed it as he directed, & put everything back together. I plugged it into the wall socket but still no power, except the light bulb in the Fridge. I texted the technician & he said I may have a bad front touch panel, so I told him to get it to fix the unit. I texted him again a couple of days later & he hadn't ordered the new touch pad, so I started searching more information on the web & found your videos. I've tried to follow you step by step but I'm getting some low readings off the new Control board so I don't know if one bad part is cancelling them out.
I've got 120 V from the wall plug to the control board, but I'm not getting the 13-15 V to the other locations. I've removed & checked the evaporator fan via a 9V battery & it works, so I re-installed it. Testing the Fan Voltage on J2, I'm getting 5.3 - 5.6 V; & the same readings on the front touch panel, etc. Any suggestions?!?
Thanks - Tony
Sounds like the replacement part may be bad
Andy, thanks for the instructions. I recently replaced the control board on a dead GE side by side. Got it back to working although now it appears the evaporator and condenser fan continually runs. Is this normal? I do hear the compressor cycle on and off as normal. Temp/resistance readings on the thermometers were 14 (frig), 30 and 30.
Hi Tom!
Could you please send me the model number for your refrigerator?
Also, the fist 5 digits of your serial number.
It's on a silver or white sticker inside the fridge section.
Thanks!
gsh25jsxb ss - mr221634
Thanks Tom,
I was checking that info against the install instructions as some require a slight modification to the wiring harness on install, but yours does not appear to be impacted.
As far as the evaporator fan (I. E. Inside the freezer) fan, I would pay that zero attention as it will run whenever it is needed to circulate air inside the compartments as needed based on the freezer and fridge temp.
The condenser fan (I. E. The fan closest to the compressor behind the fridge) however should only run when your compressor is running. Some fridges will have fans that run when the compressor does not based on ambient temps in the room, but to my knowledge none of the GE side by sides fit this bill.
I'd verify that you are not just hearing the evaporator fan running and it's not the condenser fan as you typically will not hear a condenser fan running without being up close and personal with it.
As far as the sensor readings, I wouldn't be able to say if those are reading correctly or not as those readings change based on the actual temperature of the sensor. So, you'd need to know the true temp inside the cabinet and then compare that to the resistance reading, if that makes sense?
It does and thanks.
Awesome video. Informative with great production quality. So my GE is totally dead, no lights at all, nothing. Tested volts at outlet, going into filter, out of filter, and at the control board. All 120. So she’s getting power yet nothing is on. Should I continue checking control board or go in a different route?
Thanks!
So, I'd start by unplugging the front board from the refrigerator. Often a shorted front touch panel will give this symptom. If it comes to life after power is restored to the fridge, it's a bad front touch panel.
Another thing to try is to unplug the fridge, wrap gently on each relay on the control board with a screwdriver handle.
Sometimes this will break free a stuck relay on the board and once power is restored it will come to life.
Now, even so the board would need to be replaced. But, it speeds up diagnosis time if it works for you.
GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos interestly it was the back panel. Everything was out on the fridge (incl lights), and the back panel was getting power. But it was NOT sending anything out. Replace the panel and it works like a charm. Thanks again for your videos!
@@matthanuf06 awesome work! Glad to be of some help. Stay in touch. Andy
Hi Andy.
I am having a problem where my GE SXS has all the fans running but the compressor isn’t running. I have tested the compressor start relay, capacitor and compressor resistance and all tested good. I tested the control board as shown in this video. I get good voltage when I check across the orange wire and line. When I check across the orange wire and compressor I get no voltage. Would this be a sign of a bad control board?
Hey Dave,
Sorry to hear about the issues!
If you're getting 120vac to the 2 wires before the compressor relays, the control board is going its job.
However, if you do not get voltage after the compressor relays, the relays are bad.
Does that makes sense?
Sorry, I was on the road and just reread your comment.
I agree, if your condenser fan is running, the compressor should also be running. You could also test your compressor circuit by unplugging the fridge, install a jumper wire from the L1 (I.e. the furthest right on the light blue plug) and the furthest left on the light blue plug. This is your compressor circuit. Then plug in the fridge. This applies 120v to the compressor and it should run and this point.
If so, it’s a failed control board.
Be sure to unplug the fridge before removing the jumper wire.
Would a bad control board cause the temperature control panel on the front to quit working? I have the same scenario that you described. The only thing that comes on are the lights in the refrigerator. The lights on the control board are not coming on anymore. This all happened the other night after the electricity went out.
Hi Troy,
I definately can.
But, to determine which board is at fault, you'll need to unplug the front control board and see if the fridge comes on at that point. If so, the front display board has failed.
If not, check for 12-13.5vdc between the red and black wires coming to the front panel.
There is also a connector by the freezer hinge that can corrode and cause this issue.
Let me know what you find once the front board is unplugged.
@@GraceAppliance Is that the J-4 connection you show at 5:12 that disconnects the front control panel? You're saying if I unplug that and the refrigerator comes on it is the front control board?
@@TroyShaw correct, or you can also unplug it at the front board itself. Either one.
GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos I replaces the back control board and it came on but now the display on the front where you control the temperature is just blinking 0. What do I do?
What happened when you unplugged the front board?
I have power to control board but compressor not running no lights ln frig no lights ln freezer no display lights l have replaced control board
Hello my fridge stop working only light comes on question if motor is bad will that caused it to not turn on at all?
Replaced the ice depenser solenoid thinking that was the problem. Still will not depense ice and the inside lights sometimes come on dim or not at all. Is it the touch pad ? Don't understand the connection with the ice not depensing the interior light not working properly
Hey Karl,
Please send me your model number and I can have a look at some of the common issues.
Thanks!
Andy
Andy,
model # PFSF5RKZC BB GE Profile. Note: I think it might be the main board
@@karlbird60 Hi Karl,
It sounds more like a failed main board. If the touch pad is switching correctly back and forth between the water and ice function, I wouldn't suspect the touch panel. I've seen only a very small number of these fail where i've seen many many main controls fail.
Your board number is: WR55X11098
www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr55x11098-refrigerator-electronic-control-board-genuine-original-equipment-manufacturer-oem-part
But, I'll also add that this same symptom can come from a short (typically happening in one of the motors) If it were mine, before buying a new board, i'd want to check the auger motor as well (i.e. the motor which turns the cork screw part that dispenses the ice cubes) If you find that the lights only dim when attempting to dispense ice, I would disconnect the power wires coming to the auger motor, insert my meter leads on these wires, then attempt to call for ice.
If you find that you have 120VAC to these wires, the lights no longer dim, it would indicate the main board is doing it's job. I would then replace the auger motor. If the lights still dim or no voltage, I'd then suspect a failed main board.
Your Auger can be found here:
www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr60x10331-motor-auger-dc
I hope this helps,
Andy
@@GraceAppliance FYI _ the problem was the board based on the fact the interior lights reacted independently from the ice i.e. auger motor. Thanks for your help.
What should I check if the voltage to the main board is off? The meter reads 10-20V to the board instead of the expected 120V. Door light turns on but nothing else works.
Hey, if you’re not getting 120 volts as shown at 2:43sec of this video, you need to suspect faulty wiring between the wall plug and the control board. Since your lights appear to be working ok I’d rule out the main refrigerator cord. However, These lights are on a separate circuit than your control board. So, with the fridge UNPLUGGED I’d check the plug near the compressor where the main power cord attaches to. You’ll see a bundle of wires there. Unplug this connector, inspect all of the surrounding wires for damage or lose connections.
Rodents (especially during cold weather) tend to make homes out of this space in refrigerators because it’s warmer and they like the taste of the wire insulation. Be sure it’s not connected to power while you’re poking around in there. If you do have a stripped wire for some reason, you can easily shock yourself. Ask me how I know! :)
Let me know if you have any questions.
Andy
@@GraceAppliance Thank you so much. I unplugged, cleaned and plugged those cables and power was back to normal. The board was still bad though, thanks to your videos I could diagnose it with confidence and after installing the replacement the fridge is back to normal.
Horacio Gonzalez Larrain awesome! I’m so glad you got it figured out and my video could help provide an extra boost of confidence to do the repair yourself. If you do hit any snags once you get the board just let me know. Thanks and stay in touch! Andy
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I like your video's my ge refrigerator is model dss25kgraww how do I test my board ?
I can't locate the control board for my GE refrigerator model GTH18EB, year 06/29/20,10. Does it have a control board?
Hi. I'm not getting 120 to the compressor. What can I check?
I have a ge profile artica refrigerator. Lights and temperature controls are blank. However temperature numbers come up on the temperature adjustments. I blew out the condenser.
Hi Mike, please send your model number when you can. It’s in a tag inside the fridge section. Andy
Hi Andy, I have to tell you that love your videos and I hope you can help me to diagnose my issue with GE refrigirator.
I have SxS GE refrigerator. Based on your video I detected that control board got burned , so I went ahead and replaced it today. It did not solve the problem. It is not completely dead. My refrigirator does have light but the fan and compressor on the back of it is not running. The voaporating fan inside the frizzer seems running just fine but not the one that is next to the compressor. I also replaced the starting kit that is next to the compressor. I tested the compressor and it seems to be working. I do hear some buzz noise for a second or two as soon as I try to plug in the refrigerator. Also, I tested that It doesn’t start after I unplug J 4 from the main board. What would be my next step to test? Thank you.
Hey, the fact that it starts up after unplugging the J4 connector tells me that your fridge also has a failed (shorted) front touch panel. You’ll need to replace that and will be good to go. If you’ll use the link in the description to purchase your part, that helps a ton and is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Andy
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Andy, when I unplug J4 it Does NOT start refrigirator. I have i feeling that the start relay that I replaced is not good. I just hear a humming noise for a second or two but that about it. It doesn’t start the compressor.
Viktoriya Almazan I’m sorry, I misread that portion.
Disregard about the front touch panel. Now, it could be that you have a seized up compressor which would cause this symptom.
It’s easiest to test with an amp (I.e. clamp) meter on one of the 2 wires leading to the compressor relay. It should read about 1.5A, but if it’s locked up would read about 10A for several seconds.
Another way to test is to unplug the fridge, unplug the relay from the compressor and replug in your fridge. If it starts up, it sounds like a seized compressor. Let me know what you find.
@@GraceAppliance I unplugged the refrigirator and the start relay but nothing has changed. Is it normal for overhead protector relay to make a little noise coming from inside when I shake? My old overhead had this sound and the new one that I replaced has this " baby toy like" sound
Viktoriya Almazan yes, they do make a little rattle, but you shouldn’t hear things rolling around inside the case when you shake. A baby rattle is a good description of how it shouldn’t sound.
With your fridge relay unplugged from the compressor, measure the resistance between the 3 pins in all combinations and tell me what you read. Also, check each pin to see if you have resistance between the pin and a copper pipe leading to the compressor. Let me know what you find there too.
Thanks!
I have a Maytag refrigerator, model number MFI2269VEM2. Nothing is working except the inside lights. The front display including the temperature control is not working. If I push any button on the front display, all indicator lights light up, but when I take my finger off the button, it stops. I had a technician come out and diagnose it - he said that the Dispenser/Control panel in the front was not working. I ordered that part and replaced it, but it still is not working. I am thinking that it is the main control board in the back, but as mentioned earlier, when I touch any button in the front, it does light up but then goes back out. Does that mean that the control board in back is good? Another note: A couple of weeks ago the compressor was kicking on and off, so I cleaned the condensing coil and that appeared to take care of that. I am not sure if these two are related. Can you please give me some advice? Thank you.
Hi Larry,
Sorry to hear about your issues with the fridge. I agree with you that it must be the main control at this point. This part would also cause the compressor symptom like you mentioned. I can count on one hand the number of failed touch panels that I’ve needed to replace and can’t count the number of main boards I’ve needed to replace.
While I haven’t come across this particular (maybe ever) my first guess would be the main board vs the touch panel.
Here’s a thread that discusses that specific issue on your particular model. You’ll find it talks about how it’s a tough one to diagnose because of almost zero manufacturer troubleshooting steps.
appliantology.org/topic/57907-maytag-model-mfi2269veb2-refrigerator-control-panel-stopped-working-as-did-all-cooling/
Sorry I couldn’t be more help though!
Thank so much. The main control board had a little bit of a burn small to it, so that helps to confirm that's the problem. what was throwing me off was that I had power( all displays lit up) on the touch panel when I pushed on any of the buttons, and knowing it controlled the compressor (temp control).
You’re most welcome. Good deal! I’ll be curious to know the outcome. Best of luck!
update, I installed the main board. the evaporator fan is now working but compressor still not running. The touch panel has temp frig and freezer is lit up. it looks like error message. The freezer says PEO the frig temp says 000. If I push the temp up and down buttons at the same time it reads across PE H20. This is the only part that will light up. if I push the water lever water will come out and the light where the water comes out at the dispenser is continually on. Do you have any idea where I go from here?
@@larrytallent7879 hey Larry, that's a good sign actually. You will need to program / calibrate the board to match the fridge.
Here are instructions for that.
www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/attachment.php?attachmentid=22332&d=1431789892
Hi Andy,
my refrigerator isn't working. all the light is on. Inverter board is good. control board likes good but there is green light in the control board flashing? refrigerator is GE Model no pfe29psdass. please help. thank you
Muhammad Afghanzada
Hey, the first thing I’d check is that it’s hasn’t been accidentally been put in to demo mode.
If you want to send me an email, I can send you a tech sheet for this fridge and it will help with putting it in service mode and identifying any codes that would help in finding the right direction to go with diagnosis.
GraceAppliance@gmail.com
Thanks Muhammad, email sent.
I am getting 7.5 volts out of the control board to the invetter controller. Is the board bad?
Hey Alan, what is your model number please?
@@GraceAppliance wow tha that wa s quick, I was able to found out that 7.5 was normal. My inverter board blew, it's working now, I hope. Thanks for your help the video wa s great
@@alanrink4268 hey, you're most welcome. I'm so glad you got it figured out!
(For others that may have issues)
Yes, the main boards only job in the case of inverter boards is to provide some low DC voltage to tell the inverter board to send the voltage to the compressor. The compressor is variable speed and the main board may send 3 different voltages (say, 3.5v, 5vdc, 6.5vdc) which the inverter board then translates this signal in to Low, Med, High compressor speed by then providing the appropriate volts AC to the compressor. (say 60v, 90v, 120v AC)
Thanks which leads do u use ? Thanks
The ones in the video are no name brand, but similar to these:
amzn.to/3gQfc0E
Thanks for fast response.
I actually like your probes that you use on most videos when you test control board connector pins ( back pin) leads
They are little bit bended
Can you please let me know which ones are those that you use everywhere
They are not regular needle probes but insulated but flexible
Please let me know their exact model
Thanks
Hey, I am not sure of the brand. I picked them up at my parts house years back and don't know where I could find them again. They were pretty nice, but have worn out since making the videos.
Its fine
Thanks anyway Andy !!!
Thanks for great videos
I would love to see troubleshot on other brands as well
Do you repair sealer system ?
Yes, I do.
Hi Andy, I have a GE sxs. Lights and fans are on but not the compressor. I noticed the front panel on the dispenser is not on and when I plug the fridge in, you can almost here the compressor want to click on, but then goes silent. Thoughts?
Hey Joseph,
I'd start with this video.
ruclips.net/video/ViFpwH6_WrM/видео.html
If you unplug the front control panel and the compressor comes on, it's going to be a shorted front touch panel that's the issue.
Let me know what you find.
Thanks,
Andy
On the J4 plug, my voltage is fluctuating between 4.5 volts to 11.0 volts. It just keeps going up and down.
Joseph Stevens ok, unplug that connector at the main board (j1 I think) and measure for voltage on those two pins on the main board. If you’re still getting fluctuation on the voltage like this, replace the main board. Thanks!
I did and it's still fluctuating at the main board. Will this prevent the front panel from lighting up?
Thank you Andy, I liked and subscribed. Your videos are very helpful. Thank you!!
Hi Andy, I have a GE fridge model gshs9ngybcss. Nothing works except interior lights. Using your method, tested good for 120V AC going into board. But no 12-14V DC on J4-3,J4-1 going to touch panel. Have now tried 2 other new Main Control Boards and all show same. I can't believe all 3 boards are bad. Is there a fuse common to all somewhere else outside of board? Would you have any other suggestions.
Hey j k,
Sorry to hear about your headaches with that!
Just to clarify, you're going to want to test J4 plug on the 2nd & 3rd pins. 2nd & 3rd from the left. It should be a red wire on pin #2 and a black wire on pin #3.
If you're getting 12-14 volts DC there, your board is doing it's job. There isn't a fuse or a reason why the board would stop sending voltage to that board for any reason that I can think of. (also, not to be rude here...but make sure you have set your meter to DC and not AC, it's worth mentioning)
One super common issue with the front board (and most common reason for mis-diagnosis) is the plug connector near the freezer hinge. They get corroded or loose and the voltage from the board doesn't make it all the way to the control board. The solution if you find this plug is at fault is to cut the wires on either side of the plug (with the refrigerator unplugged obviously) and directly solder the wires together, thus eliminating the plug and all the connection issues that go with it.
Let me know what you find with testing the pins I referenced above and we can go from there.
Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance On mine the J4 plug from top down is a black, red, and blue wire. I see that the schematic has black and blue as COMM. In DC mode and one lead on red and other on either black or blue, I just get fluctuating values b/w 0V and 0.5V with power cord plugged in. There is also a chirping sound all the time.
Ahhh, gotcha now. Sorry about that. Your board is slightly different from the one shown with respect to the wiring diagram. I’m not able to locate the wiring diagram for your model. If you have it, I’m happy to take a look if you want to email it to GraceAppliance@gmail.com
Does your fridge run currently or is this keeping it from running?
I’d start by unplugging the J4 connector and measure for the voltage straight from the board (same pins as you checked) and see if the reading changes. I’m wanting to rule out a shorted front touch panel. This will give symptoms like you’re having.
If it is shorted, often it will keep the fridge from functioning and you can diagnose this by unplugging the J4 and the fridge then starts up once that short has been eliminated.
j k thanks! got the schematic from you. I appreciate it.
You’ll want to test between J4-1 & J4-2 (red and black)
This should be 12-14vdc.
Let me know what voltage you get there.
Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance Nothing except interior lights work . Just pulled out the J2 plug and can hear fridge coming to life. Pulled out J4 without success and put back in. Now finally also getting 13.4V DC on J4 plug to front panel once J2 plug pulled. Touch panel lights are on also.
when testing j2 and j4 plugs my meter signal jumps all over, 120 volts in but no steady signal on j2 and j4, i take it as a bad board right? Please someone can answer this ?
So if the the light is not on in the refrigerator it could be a bad power cord? Also The little green light on the ice maker is on
Hi,
If the light on the icemaker is on, your power cord is OK.
If the lights are out inside the refrigerator AND the freezer (and both stopped working at the same time), I'd suspect some type of wiring issue and focus in on the plug behind the refrigerator where the cord from the wall plugs in.
Keeping in mind, on a GE side by side, the lights do not run through your control board.
However, if both lights started acting up separately, I'd check first that the bulbs themselves are OK, the door switches are functioning OK, or at the housing that the light screws in to. Often, the bulbs are screwed in too tight which shorts out the housing. Also, door switches can give this symptom, but...
To check voltage to the bulb housing you'd need a voltmeter. Do you have one?
Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance my refrigerator is not working at all the only sign of power is the ice maker light. The compressor, fan, and the front display doesn't come on. It's completely dead besides the ice maker light. I test the power going to the control board and it's reading 120v.
Hey Bobby, It sounds like a failed main control board (behind your refrigerator), but I would first check to make sure your front control panel has not failed before replacing that.
Here is a video on how to test the front dispenser control board:
ruclips.net/video/ViFpwH6_WrM/видео.html
If the main control board is not sending voltage to your front dispenser control board, replace the main control board (behind the refrigerator) and that should solve your problem.
I hope that helps and let me know if you have any questions!
Andy
What if I dont have 120 at the board?
Chryiat 200 hey, if the lights in your fridge are working, you can rule out a bad socket at the wall and bad cord.
With the fridge unplugged, I’d inspect for damaged wiring near the compressor. It will be near where the power cable from the wall comes in. If you don’t see any damaged wiring there, let me know and we can investigate further. Thanks!
I have a Maytag Refrigerator. Is the test points the same?
Hey Victor, the basic troubleshooting will be the same.
Please send your model number. What symptoms are you having?
GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Video
I have a Maytag model MF12569VEB2. The control panel locked up. The last reading were LL on the freezer temperature and 8 on the refrigerator temperature and now the screen is blank. The refrigerator still seem to be cooling. Can the control board in the back of the refrigerator be bad and the refrigerator still cool?
Victor Hudson hey Victor,
I have not come across these particular numbers/letters on the display before. However, it does sound like a poor connection to the front board.
This can be caused by a failed control board, a bad touch panel in the front or a poor connection.
I’d start by first unplugging your fridge for 3 minutes. Restore power to the fridge and see if it resolves the issue. If not, I’d check for the connection under the top left hinge (left if looking from the front of the fridge) unplug this connection and reconnect 10x. Inspect for pinched or broken wires.
You have also have a similar connection behind the kickpanel near the bottom of the refrigerator.
Let me know what you find.
Thanks!
Andy
bad braker?
Phillip Song hey Phillip,
If your interior lights are on in the refrigerator, you can rule out a bad breaker. The breaker is the resettable fuse that the incoming power comes through via your electrical box which is typically located in your garage.
Does this answer your question?
Sorry to bother you. It was the door light switch.
Awesome work! Glad you got it sorted out.
how do i reset my fridge ge model gsc23lsrcss
Hi, the only reset you can do is to unplug it and replug it back in.
What type of issues are you having?
@@GraceAppliance we had power outage, light is on but fridge and freezer not working.
@@samchowdry hey,
It sounds like a failed control board to me.
I'd start with this video:
ruclips.net/video/ViFpwH6_WrM/видео.html
This will help you determine if it's the main control board or the front touch panel that's failed.
It's likely going to be the main control board, but you'll want to rule out the front touch panel as well to be sure.
I've also got a video showing visual inspections you can do on the main control that may help.
Thanks and let me know if you have any questions.
GSE23GSKECSS on my third control board and second inverter. Board has power but fails all other tests. Light on in the unit, but nothing else works. HELP!
Hey Will,
Start here. ruclips.net/video/ViFpwH6_WrM/видео.html
Unplug the connector for the front touch panel and see if the fridge comes on. If so, you have a failed front touch panel.
Fridge didn't come on and I do not have proper voltage at the control panel or on the control board where it plugs in. Is it possible I've gotten two bad boards from ge?
Also I have lights on in the inside but nothing else
@@willthurmer6080
You say you have power to the main board. What voltage do you show for this test?
1:30sec of this video
ruclips.net/video/PhQKqF5MgDE/видео.html
The probability of getting 2 bad boards is almost 0% I think.
@@GraceAppliance I show 122v on the power side, but none of my tests show good voltage to the components
Compressor not running and Condenser fan not running. the other fan inside is running ,I think i did all of the checks on your video's where am i missing it at
Hey,
I'd start with checking your temperature sensors and if you have a GE side by side, this video should help if you haven't already checked them with a meter:
ruclips.net/video/CG-2FnQ43Hs/видео.html&lc=UgxbUipYtmqDLkcufCJ4AaABAg
The condenser fan near the compressor will run only when the compressor runs. The compressor will run only when it's "too warm" in the fridge or freezer. If the sensors are not good, the board never gets the message to turn on the compressor. So, i'd start there.
It could also be a failed control board. If you wanted to reply with your model number it would help me with my suggestions. Also, be sure that you've unplugged the fridge from the wall for 5 minutes to reset the control board if you haven't done this already too.
Thanks,
Andy
model # SSL35KFPE BS , Serial #TF79457
@@williamsims8919 Thanks William, What brand is this, Kratos commercial unit?
@@GraceAppliance it is a GE
G E side by side
brandsmart and sears tech they dont know how to use a multimeter
I haven't heard of brandsmart before, but I know that Geek Squad and Dish Network are now sending their guys out as appliance technicians. A&E factory service apparently bought out Sears appliance service, so there's that.
Here in Texas there is no state license needed to perform appliance repair so I've come in behind some really ugly situations. Are you a tech as well?