Appliance repair technician here, pull the board off and do a visual inspection on the back of the board. the relay that controls power to the defrost components usually is burned out. replace board. you can also check continuity through defrost heater and bimetal with a multi meter across Orange neutral and blue defrost to verify the heater/bimetal circuit is good. GE had an issue with all previous main control board that substitute to part number WR55X10942. In my experience, over the course of production of current Wr55x10942 control board, it is a stable board and this (along with others) issue has been resolved.
Is that 110v to heat up the defroster? It seems dangerous when these wires and connectors are embedded in ice. When J9 and J11 is jumped, defroster will turn on regardless of the condition of the thermostat? Is it possible that the heating element has continuity but would not heat up?
Derek Chung if the heater has continuity it should heat. It’s not encased in ice, it’s in a glass tube and is supposed to make warm air that thaws the ice.
Jumped the defrost with jumper cable and heating element turned on and got hot pretty quick however the jumper wire caught on fire and had to quickly put out. Evaporator fan working. How long should the leads have been jumped? What else can we check?
in my case, I think it was just blocked and plugged by too much stuff against the vents in the freezer. If you test the fan ( you can see if it's running) and you test the heater and it's working. then I think the last resort is the board on the back of the freezer that controls it all. One other thing; be aware some of the heating elements have dual elements; it's hard to tell if one element of a dual element heater is out. I cleaned mine out, manually defrosted it, and cut down on how much "stuff" is in there and it's been working good for several months. I also put an indoor/outdoor thermometer in there, with the "outdoor" wire lead in the freezer so I can see the temps. It gets down to zero or -5 on the coldest setting where I run it most of the time, but then I can see when it's defrosting when I walk by and see the freezer temp at +20 or something. Good luck!
I got a Chev I am having trouble with my air conditioning it's a2007 the compressor went out now the filter is bad Do you have a video that will help me.
Hola buenas tardes tengo una refrigeradora GE el problema es que cada ves que se va la energía mi refrigeradora no arranca solo encienden las luces y ya no aguanto mas este problema, que puedo hacer ayudenme por favor gracias
jumping j9 to j11 to activate defrost element, did NOT work. Perhaps they did it when the frig was cold and this action would not be blocked by the thermostat. if so, they need to say so. I did it at a time when the thermostat could be about room temp. GE says that the resistance test of the defrost heating element is 100% sure, should be about 22 ohms for this model. if true, then no need to jump start the defrost heater. note that GE will not give out a circuit diagram for the electronic control board which costs about $200 so it will be harder to fix. they want you to buy a new circuit board of course. if the problem was just a mechanical timer the cost would be about $30 and a breeze to replace. i hope this circuit saves a lot of electricity because it has to do so to compensate for the 7x more expensive repair not impressed!
you bimetel or thermostat was bad. if not it is either a the thermistor little white thing that's attached to the evaporator coil. or your main board is bad.
![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](/img/1.gif)
Appliance repair technician here, pull the board off and do a visual inspection on the back of the board. the relay that controls power to the defrost components usually is burned out. replace board. you can also check continuity through defrost heater and bimetal with a multi meter across Orange neutral and blue defrost to verify the heater/bimetal circuit is good.
GE had an issue with all previous main control board that substitute to part number WR55X10942. In my experience, over the course of production of current Wr55x10942 control board, it is a stable board and this (along with others) issue has been resolved.
Bryan Jones question... why on mine every time I have a power outage takes 2 to 3 days to come back on??
The heating element now has burned out, so replacing that and the thermostat and will be posting a new video of that.
Is there any way to jump the compressor from the circuit board?
You can here the evaporator fan at "1:51" so it is working, there just is no place for the air to go due to the icejam.
Is that 110v to heat up the defroster? It seems dangerous when these wires and connectors are embedded in ice.
When J9 and J11 is jumped, defroster will turn on regardless of the condition of the thermostat?
Is it possible that the heating element has continuity but would not heat up?
Derek Chung if the heater has continuity it should heat. It’s not encased in ice, it’s in a glass tube and is supposed to make warm air that thaws the ice.
Jumped the defrost with jumper cable and heating element turned on and got hot pretty quick however the jumper wire caught on fire and had to quickly put out. Evaporator fan working. How long should the leads have been jumped? What else can we check?
But you didn't show us how to "jump" it.
Thanks make a knawledge fully video bro
what was the issue? I have same issue, heater is OK confirmed by jumper and continuity. Just change the thermostat but still not working.
in my case, I think it was just blocked and plugged by too much stuff against the vents in the freezer. If you test the fan ( you can see if it's running) and you test the heater and it's working. then I think the last resort is the board on the back of the freezer that controls it all. One other thing; be aware some of the heating elements have dual elements; it's hard to tell if one element of a dual element heater is out. I cleaned mine out, manually defrosted it, and cut down on how much "stuff" is in there and it's been working good for several months. I also put an indoor/outdoor thermometer in there, with the "outdoor" wire lead in the freezer so I can see the temps. It gets down to zero or -5 on the coldest setting where I run it most of the time, but then I can see when it's defrosting when I walk by and see the freezer temp at +20 or something. Good luck!
I got a Chev I am having trouble with my air conditioning it's a2007 the compressor went out now the filter is bad Do you have a video that will help me.
Hi my fridge is no freezing the heater is working fridge and freezer is cool but keeps going back and forth from warm to cool please help
If you leave the light on for a couple hours, the water will thaw.
yes, that's a good trick. I used to leave it on all the time. This fridge is now in the garage without water/ice hooked up but still running.
Not a good idea, I’ve seen lights damage the liner on units
Where did you get the diagram to so you where to jump at
Hola buenas tardes tengo una refrigeradora GE el problema es que cada ves que se va la energía mi refrigeradora no arranca solo encienden las luces y ya no aguanto mas este problema, que puedo hacer ayudenme por favor gracias
If the heater comes on after jumping J9 to J11 the evap thermistor is your problem
jumping j9 to j11 to activate defrost element, did NOT work. Perhaps they did it when the frig was cold and this action would not be blocked by the thermostat. if so, they need to say so. I did it at a time when the thermostat could be about room temp. GE says that the resistance test of the defrost heating element is 100% sure, should be about 22 ohms for this model. if true, then no need to jump start the defrost heater. note that GE will not give out a circuit diagram for the electronic control board which costs about $200 so it will be harder to fix. they want you to buy a new circuit board of course. if the problem was just a mechanical timer the cost would be about $30 and a breeze to replace. i hope this circuit saves a lot of electricity because it has to do so to compensate for the 7x more expensive repair not impressed!
you bimetel or thermostat was bad. if not it is either a the thermistor little white thing that's attached to the evaporator coil. or your main board is bad.
If the evaporater fan was dead you wouldn't hear air blowing in the freezer so it was definitely not that.
Chris Scott thanks