I just got a TJ and think I need to do the ball joints. This was a very detailed video and I feel confident being able to do the job at home. Thank you for taking the time and putting in the effort do make these videos. I remember trying to figure this stuff out myself from grainy photos in Clymer manuals back in the day.
Excellent video. Thank you for all the helpful info. I’m doing this to a TJ tomorrow and I’ve never worked on this type of vehicle before. Thanks again for sharing
Good video. I'd add that beginning to soak the nuts with PB Blaster a few times, or other like it, starting a couple of days before, will help a lot toward taking it all apart. I hate wrenching dry rusty nuts. I personally also like to use anti-seize on everything when putting it back together... the bearing mating surface and all threads. If not for future me, then whomever is needing to do this the next time.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. It was my first time doing ball joints, I used the same HFT tool as in the video (sheer coincidence) and I used it for the universal joints as well. I went back to the video a bunch of times to double check, but by the time I got to the driver's side, I felt like an old pro (it's always easier the 2nd time.) I had way more rust to deal with than your video, but your example and instructions were REALLY appreciated. Subscribing now ... thanks again. (Oh, and thanks for the torque specs!)
Thanks for a great video. Get yourself a set of aircraft skin wedges. They make the best 'tight space' pry bars. I've been using them for years. They're readily available on Amazon.
DUDE your bumper stopper is complelty loose in the spring hahahha assuming you know already. great video about to replace my ball joints and tie rod and drag link on my jeep tj 04. why does everyone wire hang the brake caliper, can i just set it aside on a table?
What brand ball joint are you using? I bought Spicer, NWP, G2... and you cannot push from the outside edge's of the bottom, as you show because of the grease boot that instantly tears. I'm $600 into tools and parts on this project after completely snapping a $270 press. I think my axle C maybe messed up, as I had to torch and air chisel the old ones out after 1,200ftlbs wouldn't budge them. I even had a licensed GM mechanic try to remove them, only to give up after 9 hours without any progress recommending that I just replace the entire axle. I've replaced XJ ball joints, JK ball joints, and even CJ ball joints, but this nightmare is something special.
@@TabooCustoms hahaha! That's actually hilarious because I just left oriellys. I think I was having issues because I was trying to used knurled ball joints when the OEM were not. Not sure if later TJs had the knurled type, as mine is an '01. Also... She's a Snow-Belt Jeep, so all that salt wasn't very kind to the metal. Thank you for the reply. Keep your tire-side down and enjoy!
@@Matt-416 If you look at the description for "Teraflex 1353000 Heavy Duty Ball Joint Set with Knurling" on quadratec, there's a little blurb about knurling: "These ball joints with knurls (1355300) are for ball joints with a loose press fit in the inner knuckle due to repeated ball joint replacement or if knurled ball joints have been installed in the past. We recommend ball joints without knurls (1355100) as they will not score the inner knuckle and open up the bore." Basically, use the knurled ball joints if your axle is worn out from constant replacement
@@malang724 Yeah.. I'm an ignoramus. I didn't realize that there were different types. The jeep has 91k miles and it's the first time they've been changed. The rust and salt corrosion (snow belt) was the issue. Live and learn. I definitely appreciate the response. She's good to go now, aside from waiting on a backordered rear CV driveshaft and I'll be hitting the trails. And I used the terraflex. I'm very satisfied with the quality.
I believe if you would have had the OTC 7894 cups,you would have had an easier time.The 7894 cups are made specifically for the Dana 30 and 44 axles.👍👍
Great video, thank you. I want to mention to everyone DO NOT HEAT THE BALL JOINTS, they can EXPLODE. I didn't know this until yesterday.
Thank you
I didn't know that either. Great tip!
Why the heck would anyone want to heat up the ball joints?
I just got a TJ and think I need to do the ball joints. This was a very detailed video and I feel confident being able to do the job at home. Thank you for taking the time and putting in the effort do make these videos. I remember trying to figure this stuff out myself from grainy photos in Clymer manuals back in the day.
Thanks for telling the correct torque specifications very helpful.
No problem!
It went as could be expected. But I knew what I needed. Thanks to your video! Thanks again
Excellent video. Thank you for all the helpful info. I’m doing this to a TJ tomorrow and I’ve never worked on this type of vehicle before. Thanks again for sharing
Let us know how it goes. Thanks!
Good video. I'd add that beginning to soak the nuts with PB Blaster a few times, or other like it, starting a couple of days before, will help a lot toward taking it all apart. I hate wrenching dry rusty nuts. I personally also like to use anti-seize on everything when putting it back together... the bearing mating surface and all threads. If not for future me, then whomever is needing to do this the next time.
Thank you so much for this! I've always avoiding doing ball joints, but this video gave me a bit of confidence!
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. It was my first time doing ball joints, I used the same HFT tool as in the video (sheer coincidence) and I used it for the universal joints as well. I went back to the video a bunch of times to double check, but by the time I got to the driver's side, I felt like an old pro (it's always easier the 2nd time.) I had way more rust to deal with than your video, but your example and instructions were REALLY appreciated. Subscribing now ... thanks again. (Oh, and thanks for the torque specs!)
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to explain it all.
Thank you for this very educational video, it helped me a lot!
Awesome video, brother. Perfectly done. Nice and detailed and slow enough to where I could keep up. Lol. Thank you for doing it.
No problem 👍
Thats surprising that you got the harbor freight to work, I looked on forums and bunch of people are saying you need a special adapter for a jeep
Great video! Best I've seen on the matter at hand. THANKS .
Thanks for a great video.
Get yourself a set of aircraft skin wedges. They make the best 'tight space' pry bars. I've been using them for years. They're readily available on Amazon.
DUDE your bumper stopper is complelty loose in the spring hahahha assuming you know already. great video about to replace my ball joints and tie rod and drag link on my jeep tj 04. why does everyone wire hang the brake caliper, can i just set it aside on a table?
Awesome video. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for this tutorial!!!
What brand ball joint are you using? I bought Spicer, NWP, G2... and you cannot push from the outside edge's of the bottom, as you show because of the grease boot that instantly tears. I'm $600 into tools and parts on this project after completely snapping a $270 press.
I think my axle C maybe messed up, as I had to torch and air chisel the old ones out after 1,200ftlbs wouldn't budge them. I even had a licensed GM mechanic try to remove them, only to give up after 9 hours without any progress recommending that I just replace the entire axle.
I've replaced XJ ball joints, JK ball joints, and even CJ ball joints, but this nightmare is something special.
I dont exactly recall on this one, they could have been Moog or whatever the cheap O Reilly's brand is.
@@TabooCustoms hahaha!
That's actually hilarious because I just left oriellys.
I think I was having issues because I was trying to used knurled ball joints when the OEM were not. Not sure if later TJs had the knurled type, as mine is an '01.
Also... She's a Snow-Belt Jeep, so all that salt wasn't very kind to the metal.
Thank you for the reply. Keep your tire-side down and enjoy!
@@Matt-416 If you look at the description for "Teraflex 1353000 Heavy Duty Ball Joint Set with Knurling" on quadratec, there's a little blurb about knurling: "These ball joints with knurls (1355300) are for ball joints with a loose press fit in the inner knuckle due to repeated ball joint replacement or if knurled ball joints have been installed in the past. We recommend ball joints without knurls (1355100) as they will not score the inner knuckle and open up the bore."
Basically, use the knurled ball joints if your axle is worn out from constant replacement
@@malang724
Yeah.. I'm an ignoramus. I didn't realize that there were different types. The jeep has 91k miles and it's the first time they've been changed. The rust and salt corrosion (snow belt) was the issue. Live and learn.
I definitely appreciate the response.
She's good to go now, aside from waiting on a backordered rear CV driveshaft and I'll be hitting the trails.
And I used the terraflex. I'm very satisfied with the quality.
I like your video hopefully when I do mine it goes as smooth as yours did..
Just a quick question. Can I put a little anti-seize on the new ball joints?
I wouldn't recommend it. You don't want anything that might help it come loose when you don't want it too
Ok thank you.
Great tips on this.
Excellent TY ❤
I believe if you would have had the OTC 7894 cups,you would have had an easier time.The 7894 cups are made specifically for the Dana 30 and 44 axles.👍👍
What's otc stand for?
Great vid!!!
What brand did you use for the ball joints replacement?
If I remember correctly they were Moog
Than you brother for your teaching video
Wow you popped that loose with a ratchet!
Why won't my ball joints come off this easy 😢
Thanks for the video !!!!
Great video! Torque specs and all!!!
Great video...THANKS!