Good video. Two additional points - look for an attached ground strap on the filler nozzle, and if it’s still there, disconnect it before you drop the tank (if it’s missing, replace it to avoid static discharge when you’re at the pump). Once the tank is off the Jeep, inspect the filler nozzle for rust. If it’s rusty even a little, remove the filler nozzle, de-rust the part and repaint. The reason for this is you can’t get a new filler nozzle, and since it’s a part that often rusts out, you’ll probably have a Devil of a time finding a replacement at a wrecking yard. Better to keep the nozzle you’ve got in top shape so you don’t have to deal with that issue.
Excellent video and was bang on perfect to help me get my TJ tank a skid plate off and replaced. I never would've figured out the electrical connection since my red tab was more brown and VERY stuck.
Thanks for the tip on removing the wheel for better access to the tank connections. Seems obvious when you say it, but I probably would have struggled to reach them from under the tank for 15 min before figuring it out myself :)
Thank you for this. I enjoyed it. Very informative. With very good descriptions. I am about to tackle this job. I recommend this video for anyone looking to diy a fuel pump/tank replacement.
Informative. I’ve found that the tank is in the way of removing the T55 bolt that mounts the rear track bar to the axle. But I’m also replacing the fuel pump and skid plate, so there ya go.
I see the license plate is from Illinois and maybe they don't have smog requirements over there? My California 06 has more lines going across to the passenger side and there's a evap canister up inside that has to be disconnected before you can drop the gas tank, the connections are up inside behind the tail light but only accessible from underneath
Good video, thanks for showing where to unplug hoses and wire, didn't know that you could get to them by taking tires off, other videos I looked at , showed dropping and then unplugging I am using a motorcycle jack to replace mine, seems to be sturdy
Great video! Great info and descriptive! Gonna drop the tank in my 05 to fix the valve in the tank that sticks either open or shut.(mine is open) (Future video suggestion. Y’all did great, it would be awesome to know the socket sizes we need going into the job, obviously that’s being picky and spoiled 😆. But still, it’s nice going into a job knowing the sockets we will need lol)
Really appreciate this tutorial. I'm about to drop my tank to repair some rust holes in the rear cross member (not where the bumper mounts, where the rear of the tank skid mounts). The holes are on each side of the member, close to each frame rail. Because I appreciate this vid so much I immediately checked out your website to see if you have a repair kit. Might be something you want to offer in the future. Could use it for my LJ. Thanks again for the vid!
@@TabooCustoms Nice! Since my last post I've learned the LJ's have an EXTRA cross member that the regular TJ's don't have. I was WONDERING why it was so hard to find a replacement. Could be an opportunity to be the one shop that supplies them for LJ's. Thanks again!
I'm not aware of a new off the shelf version. You can find used ones on ebay. Or you can go to Napa or another parts store, get the fuel line ends, some fuel injected fuel line and some good clamps.
Takes me back,just filled my tank my strap broke and I'm driving down the road with a stream of gas luckily I pulled in a station luckily there was a junkyard near me with the same make and model I picked it up and changed it and went on my way
I dont know how you got that electrical connection off so fast ? I have been out in the garage for three hours trying to get that freeeeeekin thing off. Holy crap I cant get any of them off 😂🤣😂 You make it look waaaay to easy
I'm going to do another one sometime here in the near future I'll have to show that up close. They can be a major pain. Often I'll use a small screwdriver to hold the tab down then wiggle the connectors back and for the try to break the seal.
YJs can be a little tricker, partially due to age and rust. The leaf springs add some extra hassle as they some times keep the exhaust from bring able to go over enough.
What year is the Wrangler TJ ? I have a 1998 w/4.0L and its impossible to find a replacement gas tank for that year. You forgot to mention "bleeding of the Fuel Injection Rail. There's a cap on what looks like a tire valve. Let fuel pressure off there. Some say just taking off the gas cap relieves some pressure but I don't buy that. By your plate Illinois rust belt my friend. I'm here in Dallas Texas. My 1998 TJ has been siting 10 yrs now. Two tires actually blew from dry rot. On concrete slight nice surface rust on hood /body. Underneath again light surface rust for 20+yrs old. Overall it needseverything Cat was rattling, Clutch need replacement (original 180K) AC shot. bypassed with different belt. Brakes original untouched in rear I was starting it and driving around the block then came the the day no start. The usual happens life , no funds etc etc. So I was starting to build a game plan to try to start him. Tank and lines are probably just varnish gummed. but can't find a new replacement tank anywhere. Seems to be a couple pumps available what's the different one for 4.0L the other for 2.5 L. I think 1998 was 15 Gal Tank for both. Any suggestions ?
Dumb just read below its a 1998 you are working on ! Yeah skid plate replacement no problem. So looks like nothing on a 98 Gas tank replacement. So have to clean with Evapo-rust and seal line with Kreem. Dumb question is the tank plastic on the 98 ?
Was hoping I can do this at my home.. but looks like I'm going to need to take it to shop ugh...don't have jack with special plates support..dont know why a 98 wrangler have the fuel filter inside the tank... a dumb design.
Sorry I do not, I believe those are weld nuts up on top of the crossmember. I would probably see if you can cut the one that spins. Then hopefully you can drill out the sheared one and have enough room to get a nut on top with an end wrench. If you dont have enough room you can loosen body and raise it up. But chances are the body mount bolts will give you issues. Another option is to drill holes in the tub to try to get a socket down to the nut on the crossmember. To do that I would start with a small hole so you can see if you might have to adjust the location. Then drill a larger hole, just make sure you can get a plug for it.
That sucks, you have a few options. If its the stock carriage style bolt we have in the past wedged a large screwdriver in between the skid and the frame so that it is pulling down on the bolt and been able to get them off with a impact, basically you are trying to pull the square portion down into the frame. If its a case where you can tighten it and it will not spin you can put a big impact or breaker bar on it and just tighten until it break the bolt. Or if it you know it has a standard bolt head on top the outside ones you can sometimes get to with a wrench but that is a major pain. As a last resort we will make sure we do not have any fuel leaks and cut them off with a hard wheel.
The best rust repair kit is demanding that your local government stop spraying the roads with a metric ton of salt every year. I live in a place where it snows and freezes like crazy for almost 9 months, we dont use salt and its still only dummies who slide off the road and crash.
Good video. Two additional points - look for an attached ground strap on the filler nozzle, and if it’s still there, disconnect it before you drop the tank (if it’s missing, replace it to avoid static discharge when you’re at the pump). Once the tank is off the Jeep, inspect the filler nozzle for rust. If it’s rusty even a little, remove the filler nozzle, de-rust the part and repaint. The reason for this is you can’t get a new filler nozzle, and since it’s a part that often rusts out, you’ll probably have a Devil of a time finding a replacement at a wrecking yard. Better to keep the nozzle you’ve got in top shape so you don’t have to deal with that issue.
Excellent video and was bang on perfect to help me get my TJ tank a skid plate off and replaced. I never would've figured out the electrical connection since my red tab was more brown and VERY stuck.
Thank you for this excellent educational video. I appreciated the additional cautionary notes on the bolting of the tank back in place. Carry On Sir!
Thanks for the tip on removing the wheel for better access to the tank connections. Seems obvious when you say it, but I probably would have struggled to reach them from under the tank for 15 min before figuring it out myself :)
Glad it helped
Thank you for this. I enjoyed it. Very informative. With very good descriptions. I am about to tackle this job. I recommend this video for anyone looking to diy a fuel pump/tank replacement.
Glad it was helpful!
Informative. I’ve found that the tank is in the way of removing the T55 bolt that mounts the rear track bar to the axle. But I’m also replacing the fuel pump and skid plate, so there ya go.
Excellent instructional video. I did the same thing with the rear diff vent hose removing my fuel tank. Had a good little laugh about that. Great job!
Second time watching this video. Very helpful! Thank you
Thanks buddy. And that jeep in the background is freaking killer!!!!
Awesome video! Exactly what I needed for my project tomorrow. Thanks!!!!
Great video , guy knows what his is doing simple and straight to the point!!!!!
Thanks, happy you enjoyed it.
I see the license plate is from Illinois and maybe they don't have smog requirements over there? My California 06 has more lines going across to the passenger side and there's a evap canister up inside that has to be disconnected before you can drop the gas tank, the connections are up inside behind the tail light but only accessible from underneath
Oh, yeah I didn't think about California emissions it was a separate thing on the TJs I believe. Thanks for pointing that out.
Thanks! Great video with minimal window dressing.
Glad it was helpful!
Good video, thanks for showing where to unplug hoses and wire, didn't know that you could get to them by taking tires off, other videos I looked at , showed dropping and then unplugging I am using a motorcycle jack to replace mine, seems to be sturdy
Glad to help
Exactly what I needed, thank you!
Great video! Great info and descriptive! Gonna drop the tank in my 05 to fix the valve in the tank that sticks either open or shut.(mine is open)
(Future video suggestion. Y’all did great, it would be awesome to know the socket sizes we need going into the job, obviously that’s being picky and spoiled 😆. But still, it’s nice going into a job knowing the sockets we will need lol)
Thanks for the video I'm about to drop my tank to repair rear frame
Glad I could help
Really appreciate this tutorial. I'm about to drop my tank to repair some rust holes in the rear cross member (not where the bumper mounts, where the rear of the tank skid mounts). The holes are on each side of the member, close to each frame rail. Because I appreciate this vid so much I immediately checked out your website to see if you have a repair kit. Might be something you want to offer in the future. Could use it for my LJ.
Thanks again for the vid!
Thanks, we have designing a rear TJ crossmember on our list but not sure when we will get it done.
@@TabooCustoms Nice! Since my last post I've learned the LJ's have an EXTRA cross member that the regular TJ's don't have. I was WONDERING why it was so hard to find a replacement.
Could be an opportunity to be the one shop that supplies them for LJ's.
Thanks again!
My tj feed line from the fuel pump to the hard line broke....what part do I need to buy....part# ?? my tj has a 6 lift.
I'm not aware of a new off the shelf version. You can find used ones on ebay. Or you can go to Napa or another parts store, get the fuel line ends, some fuel injected fuel line and some good clamps.
Good video. I'm going to be putting a fuel cell in the back of my Jeep soon and was wondering how to remove the stock tank.
Glad it helped
Takes me back,just filled my tank my strap broke and I'm driving down the road with a stream of gas luckily I pulled in a station luckily there was a junkyard near me with the same make and model I picked it up and changed it and went on my way
You rock sir. Thanks
Great video ...thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
I dont know how you got that electrical connection off so fast ? I have been out in the garage for three hours trying to get that freeeeeekin thing off. Holy crap I cant get any of them off 😂🤣😂 You make it look waaaay to easy
I'm going to do another one sometime here in the near future I'll have to show that up close. They can be a major pain. Often I'll use a small screwdriver to hold the tab down then wiggle the connectors back and for the try to break the seal.
Thank you great instructions
Glad it was helpful!
How long did it take to replace the tank? From start to finish?
If nothing goes wrong and you know what your doing, an hour.
Thank you
Going to drop the tank on my yj because some old nasty gas
YJs can be a little tricker, partially due to age and rust. The leaf springs add some extra hassle as they some times keep the exhaust from bring able to go over enough.
What year is the Wrangler TJ ? I have a 1998 w/4.0L and its impossible to find a replacement gas tank for that year.
You forgot to mention "bleeding of the Fuel Injection Rail. There's a cap on what looks like a tire valve. Let fuel pressure off there.
Some say just taking off the gas cap relieves some pressure but I don't buy that.
By your plate Illinois rust belt my friend.
I'm here in Dallas Texas. My 1998 TJ has been siting 10 yrs now. Two tires actually blew from dry rot. On concrete slight nice surface rust on hood /body.
Underneath again light surface rust for 20+yrs old.
Overall it needseverything Cat was rattling, Clutch need replacement (original 180K) AC shot. bypassed with different belt. Brakes original untouched in rear
I was starting it and driving around the block then came the the day no start. The usual happens life , no funds etc etc.
So I was starting to build a game plan to try to start him. Tank and lines are probably just varnish gummed. but can't find a new replacement tank anywhere.
Seems to be a couple pumps available what's the different one for 4.0L the other for 2.5 L. I think 1998 was 15 Gal Tank for both.
Any suggestions ?
Dumb just read below its a 1998 you are working on ! Yeah skid plate replacement no problem. So looks like nothing on a 98 Gas tank replacement. So have to clean with Evapo-rust and seal line with Kreem. Dumb question is the tank plastic on the 98 ?
This is a 1998 TJ. As far as I know there isn't any difference between the 2.5 to 4.0 fuel pump as far as volume and pressure.
Yes all the TJ tanks are plastic.
Was hoping I can do this at my home.. but looks like I'm going to need to take it to shop ugh...don't have jack with special plates support..dont know why a 98 wrangler have the fuel filter inside the tank... a dumb design.
Do you have a video showing how to replace the front bolts for the fuel tank (on is sheared, one just spins) 😞😢
Sorry I do not, I believe those are weld nuts up on top of the crossmember. I would probably see if you can cut the one that spins. Then hopefully you can drill out the sheared one and have enough room to get a nut on top with an end wrench. If you dont have enough room you can loosen body and raise it up. But chances are the body mount bolts will give you issues. Another option is to drill holes in the tub to try to get a socket down to the nut on the crossmember. To do that I would start with a small hole so you can see if you might have to adjust the location. Then drill a larger hole, just make sure you can get a plug for it.
@@TabooCustoms Yes that is exactly what you do for this. Hole saw and rubber plugs.
Great video Ty
Glad you enjoyed it
how many gallons is the TJ gas tank?
15 gallons with 19 being an option
Thank you
What size do you use to remove.
12mm
so what the fuck do you do it the rear bolts only spin lol
That sucks, you have a few options. If its the stock carriage style bolt we have in the past wedged a large screwdriver in between the skid and the frame so that it is pulling down on the bolt and been able to get them off with a impact, basically you are trying to pull the square portion down into the frame. If its a case where you can tighten it and it will not spin you can put a big impact or breaker bar on it and just tighten until it break the bolt. Or if it you know it has a standard bolt head on top the outside ones you can sometimes get to with a wrench but that is a major pain. As a last resort we will make sure we do not have any fuel leaks and cut them off with a hard wheel.
What year TJ is this?
I believe it was a 98.
The best rust repair kit is demanding that your local government stop spraying the roads with a metric ton of salt every year. I live in a place where it snows and freezes like crazy for almost 9 months, we dont use salt and its still only dummies who slide off the road and crash.