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I’m having this issue also my car comes from Florida , it originally had a lot of corrosion especially the alternator but that was replaced , also some of the cables had corrosion as well and I tried cleaning them up as well ,so this is what happens so I can have my car on for 6 mins and if turn off and try to turn back on it won’t only with a jump start , you can see my battery voltage drop down to 6 volts after it cools down it turns on normally
I just renewed my started and used regular spray grease. After 2 weeks of insane fast cranking it's starting to crank slower when hot. Could this be it if all the voltages are okey?
Could you please explain replacement clutch master cylinder CRUZE, and clutch problems like hard clutch and how to bleed clutch ... Thanks ... best regards from Germany
I was called to another garage to fix a 2005 300c chrysler. The problems they noticed with the car was Hard or no start, red lightning bolt flashing, no throttle response, headlight stays on, battery and ESP light remaining ON during, most times immediate stalling after starting however, if it doesn't stall there's a rough idle throughout idling as a result a old PCM was replaced with a new one however problem still persisted. I scanned for DTC codes and saw a P0340, P2167, P2166, P2115, P2116, p0603 and more module codes like C2202, U0168, U1414, B1A25, etc. Please, how can I fix these problems? Can you also 🙏 provide me with the wiring diagram to CMP, CKP, APP factory values and how to test them? What should I be looking for in fixing the blinking red lightning bolt limp mode light, how can I reset the throttle without a scanner?
I have a audi q5 2.0t from 2012 ,it starts perfect when the engine temperature is cold ...but if i drive some km ang engine become hot like 90 degree and if i stop the engine and try to start again i have to do this like 4 5 time and it takes some time to start the car ....any off u guys with this problem and what can be the problem ??? Please someone
hello I have a problem with my car. The car refuses to start when the engine is hot because of the starter engine. I changed it and it fixed the issue but after 2 months the problem came back and it only starts by jumping. We also changed the battery. Any idea on what the solution might be?
I’m no expert but it seems like you just have low compression or pressure, Chris fix has a video going over the 5 things you need to make sure your car starts, check it out because I don’t remember how to check compression off the top of my head
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The burned up starter lube explains a lot. I think this is what’s wrong with my lawn mower!
Thanks I got the same issue
Very good details i have the same issue yoo.😀
High preassure fuel pump is possible ?
Thanks bro
How do u know if its sensor, starter, or anything else ... when its hot it doesnt give enough rpms. Cayenne 995?
I’m having this issue also my car comes from Florida , it originally had a lot of corrosion especially the alternator but that was replaced , also some of the cables had corrosion as well and I tried cleaning them up as well ,so this is what happens so I can have my car on for 6 mins and if turn off and try to turn back on it won’t only with a jump start , you can see my battery voltage drop down to 6 volts after it cools down it turns on normally
Same probrem i get like this after few km running when i turn off the engine won't start i HV to wait for 30min or smthing den it start
@@ekessterwellsyiem2961 so what was the problem?
Any solution or vid that can explain this problem
I'll let you know at the time during diagnosis
I just renewed my started and used regular spray grease. After 2 weeks of insane fast cranking it's starting to crank slower when hot. Could this be it if all the voltages are okey?
Thanks 👍
Could you please explain replacement clutch master cylinder CRUZE, and clutch problems like hard clutch and how to bleed clutch ... Thanks ... best regards from Germany
I was called to another garage to fix a 2005 300c chrysler. The problems they noticed with the car was Hard or no start, red lightning bolt flashing, no throttle response, headlight stays on, battery and ESP light remaining ON during, most times immediate stalling after starting however, if it doesn't stall there's a rough idle throughout idling as a result a old PCM was replaced with a new one however problem still persisted.
I scanned for DTC codes and saw a P0340, P2167, P2166, P2115, P2116, p0603 and more module codes like C2202, U0168, U1414, B1A25, etc.
Please, how can I fix these problems?
Can you also 🙏 provide me with the wiring diagram to CMP, CKP, APP factory values and how to test them? What should I be looking for in fixing the blinking red lightning bolt limp mode light, how can I reset the throttle without a scanner?
Toyota Camry 2011 2.5. Le. Cold and hot start okay no when the engine is warm
I have a audi q5 2.0t from 2012 ,it starts perfect when the engine temperature is cold ...but if i drive some km ang engine become hot like 90 degree and if i stop the engine and try to start again i have to do this like 4 5 time and it takes some time to start the car ....any off u guys with this problem and what can be the problem ??? Please someone
It's probably the stater engine, maybe I dunno
hello I have a problem with my car. The car refuses to start when the engine is hot because of the starter engine. I changed it and it fixed the issue but after 2 months the problem came back and it only starts by jumping. We also changed the battery. Any idea on what the solution might be?
I’m no expert but it seems like you just have low compression or pressure, Chris fix has a video going over the 5 things you need to make sure your car starts, check it out because I don’t remember how to check compression off the top of my head
Sounds like you have a charging issue
old wiring. old car. happened when car is after 20 years 25years
what do girls do when they have the same issue? you only talk about guys