Ah great Peter! It was the part of the build I was most nervous about but wasn’t too bad in the end! Good luck with it and let me know how you get on 👍
Hi, hopefully you'll see this. Is the voltage on the panel on show 24/7 unless you flick the kill switch? Im worried it will drain the leisure battery if i dont use the van very often but didnt want to install such an extreme kill switch. Could you wire the main feed to one of the little switches so thats what switches the panel on when you flick it? Hope that makes sense
Hi.. thanks for the comment! Yes I think the panel would be on all the time without the kill switch.. I don’t think the draw down would be massive but yes eventually I guess could start to drain the battery… I guess you could use one of the switches as a main switch.. or could use a smaller separate switch you can get small single ones.. I’d maybe bench test it before fitting and make sure it’s all good 👍 good luck with it!
@@TransitCustomCamper Yeah agreed. I have one in my bongo that switches from Leisure, Car and Off which is nice and straightforward. But I'm converting a transit custom and want a much nicer/clean finish. Think I'm just going to install an isolator like you have. They look really bulky though which is a shame.
Wired my camper the same way as yours using the same switch panel, now it’s shows on the LED 7 volts but I’ve just installed a brand new battery that provides 12 volts any idea what the issue is cheers in advance 👍
Hi - thanks for the comment. Yes I agree! It was my first time doing this and all of can say is I read and re-read all the instruction and followed the wiring diagrams and then had it checked after. Being honest I am not sure on the “why”… from an electrical circuit point of view sorry… hopefully it’s helped with the videos but I’d always get stuff checked out too 👍
Hi Willie - thanks for checking out the video and the comment. I would have to check to be honest as it came in the kit I got from Wired Campers. Next time I am in the van I’ll take a look and drop a comment back to you 👍
Hey 👋 thanks for the comment! I am considering an inverter but have not had much use for one based on how we are using the van.. if I get one I’ll be sure to do a video and post 👍
Hi there, i noticed your hinges on your doors seem different. i cant seem to find any Concealed hinges that open the same way as your ones. any help would be appreciated thank you. p.s love the build, encouraged me to do mine now!
Hi Dom - thanks for the comment and checking out the videos! The hinges actually came with the furniture as part of the flat pack kit I got. This came from a company called alpine leisure… might be worth giving them a shout maybe? They could either supply or give you an idea? Good luck on your own build 👍 & thanks again for your kind words 😃
Hi Mart - Thanks for the comment 👍 I’ll have to check next time I am in the cupboard 😃 However, as I mentioned in one of the vids I am not a qualified electrician and I wouldn’t want to advise anything that might not be right for your build… so might be best you get some additional advice so I can sleep at night 😂 The company I got the electrics kit from was really good and answered any questions I had about the kit… wire and fuse size etc too.. As I hadn’t done anything like this before. I think another good company is Rayne Automotive who supply fully wired kits too so might be worth a look 👍
I would always get it all checked and make sure for your own set up etc.. but I would think 6 gauge would be “generally” ok.. I got all my work checked by a sparky when I was done also 👍⚠️
Hi - It was 14AWG. That was specified in the information on my fridge 👍 picked it up from Amazon - TUOFENG 14 AWG Wire,Soft and Flexible Silicone Insulated Wire 20 m [10 m Black and 10 m Red ] Stranded Wire High Temperature Resistance for RC Applications,Test Lead,Drones Battery amzn.to/3Sv3Gsd
Hey AM… I think the need for an inverter would be choice based on how you plan to use the van… So if you on a hook up then you could use the kettle with a standard 240v socket… BUT if you off grid… then the inverter would be needed from the leisure battery to then still give the power to run things like laptops, kettles etc that would more aligned to running off a 240 UK socket… key might be the draw on the leisure battery so those types of items… hope that helps? Key advice I got was thinking about how we planned to use the van that informed the decisions about the kit we needed 👍
I used 14AWG for the fridge, lights etc… wiring for CTEK an battery etc was 16mm.. As I mentioned I am only DIY so I would get anything checked yourself too based on the different kit you use and check rating fuses etc 👍
I would check the ratings on the kit you are planning and make sure it all stacks up 👍 This was my first conversion so I wouldn’t want to give you any duff advice especially on the electrics!
I was thinking of getting someone in for this, but thanks you your video I’m going to do it myself.
Ah great Peter! It was the part of the build I was most nervous about but wasn’t too bad in the end! Good luck with it and let me know how you get on 👍
Hi, hopefully you'll see this. Is the voltage on the panel on show 24/7 unless you flick the kill switch? Im worried it will drain the leisure battery if i dont use the van very often but didnt want to install such an extreme kill switch. Could you wire the main feed to one of the little switches so thats what switches the panel on when you flick it? Hope that makes sense
Hi.. thanks for the comment! Yes I think the panel would be on all the time without the kill switch.. I don’t think the draw down would be massive but yes eventually I guess could start to drain the battery… I guess you could use one of the switches as a main switch.. or could use a smaller separate switch you can get small single ones.. I’d maybe bench test it before fitting and make sure it’s all good 👍 good luck with it!
@@TransitCustomCamper Yeah agreed. I have one in my bongo that switches from Leisure, Car and Off which is nice and straightforward. But I'm converting a transit custom and want a much nicer/clean finish. Think I'm just going to install an isolator like you have. They look really bulky though which is a shame.
@MazdaBongo1599 yeah they definitely function over form! But also makes it easier to find in the dark 😂 hope you get a good solution you happy with 👍
Wired my camper the same way as yours using the same switch panel, now it’s shows on the LED 7 volts but I’ve just installed a brand new battery that provides 12 volts any idea what the issue is cheers in advance 👍
Hey! Not sure to be honest with you.. Is the battery new?
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Good videos. Wiring is always confusing. Why does the negative connect to positive on the pump/switch?
Hi - thanks for the comment. Yes I agree! It was my first time doing this and all of can say is I read and re-read all the instruction and followed the wiring diagrams and then had it checked after. Being honest I am not sure on the “why”… from an electrical circuit point of view sorry… hopefully it’s helped with the videos but I’d always get stuff checked out too 👍
Hi could you tell me what size of fuse you used for the power into the control panel from the battery please? Great work and very helpful, thankyou
Hi Willie - thanks for checking out the video and the comment. I would have to check to be honest as it came in the kit I got from Wired Campers. Next time I am in the van I’ll take a look and drop a comment back to you 👍
Hi could you do a video wiring a inverter in with a consumer unit and 240 hook up please
Hey 👋 thanks for the comment! I am considering an inverter but have not had much use for one based on how we are using the van.. if I get one I’ll be sure to do a video and post 👍
Hi. What did you use for your test battery?
Hey - I used a little 12v one I picked up from Amazon here amzn.to/4gQ1Saf
Hi there, i noticed your hinges on your doors seem different. i cant seem to find any Concealed hinges that open the same way as your ones. any help would be appreciated thank you. p.s love the build, encouraged me to do mine now!
Hi Dom - thanks for the comment and checking out the videos! The hinges actually came with the furniture as part of the flat pack kit I got. This came from a company called alpine leisure… might be worth giving them a shout maybe? They could either supply or give you an idea?
Good luck on your own build 👍 & thanks again for your kind words 😃
@@TransitCustomCamper I did check their website but maybe I'll send them a message at some point cheers!
On the kill switch could you please tell me the inline fuse amp that you have connected. Do you have a link For the fuse holder.
Thanks again 🙂
Hi Mart - Thanks for the comment 👍 I’ll have to check next time I am in the cupboard 😃 However, as I mentioned in one of the vids I am not a qualified electrician and I wouldn’t want to advise anything that might not be right for your build… so might be best you get some additional advice so I can sleep at night 😂
The company I got the electrics kit from was really good and answered any questions I had about the kit… wire and fuse size etc too.. As I hadn’t done anything like this before. I think another good company is Rayne Automotive who supply fully wired kits too so might be worth a look 👍
What size cable would you run from leisure battery to switch panel..no isolating switch tho?
I would always get it all checked and make sure for your own set up etc.. but I would think 6 gauge would be “generally” ok.. I got all my work checked by a sparky when I was done also 👍⚠️
What size wiring did you use from the fridge to the panel as you never said in last video
Hi - It was 14AWG. That was specified in the information on my fridge 👍 picked it up from Amazon - TUOFENG 14 AWG Wire,Soft and Flexible Silicone Insulated Wire 20 m [10 m Black and 10 m Red ] Stranded Wire High Temperature Resistance for RC Applications,Test Lead,Drones Battery amzn.to/3Sv3Gsd
are you planing on a 240 hookup i see you have a 240v socket there
Yes - I did a hook up too… I saw the comment on the door table… any tips on the hook up also?
Wait, So i don't actaully need a inverter? I was hoping to have a kettle in my van
Hey AM… I think the need for an inverter would be choice based on how you plan to use the van… So if you on a hook up then you could use the kettle with a standard 240v socket… BUT if you off grid… then the inverter would be needed from the leisure battery to then still give the power to run things like laptops, kettles etc that would more aligned to running off a 240 UK socket… key might be the draw on the leisure battery so those types of items… hope that helps? Key advice I got was thinking about how we planned to use the van that informed the decisions about the kit we needed 👍
Can I ask what wires you have used? thickness / amp rating, etc?
I used 14AWG for the fridge, lights etc… wiring for CTEK an battery etc was 16mm.. As I mentioned I am only DIY so I would get anything checked yourself too based on the different kit you use and check rating fuses etc 👍
@@TransitCustomCamper brill thanks!
Iv got 12awg wire Already would that be to big
I would check the ratings on the kit you are planning and make sure it all stacks up 👍 This was my first conversion so I wouldn’t want to give you any duff advice especially on the electrics!
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