Yes thanks 🙏🏻. I’ve recently bought a switch board box from Kings in WA Aus. I was considering many different options for wiring my services in a Van . You have opened my eyes to possibilities.. especially the master switch concept . Makes perfect sense to me now.. cheers David. I’ll look at more of your posts in the future..! Regards G
David you the best, thank you for your in-depth tutorial. Im currently living in my van and right now have to turn the lights off by removing the fuse at the fuse board (pain in the ass when your going to bed). I had purchased one of these switch boards a while back and could not wrap my head around how to wire it. Most of the other videos felt hard to understand or just cowboys wiring it. Again, great job and keep up the great work. Liked and subscribed, thank Sir!
Thank you for the great video. You cover some methods others do not. If a switch is simply closing the circuit via the hot wire why do they have a negative pole? All I can figure is to illuminate the blue LED indicator in the switch and if you didn’t want that then leave the negative off. Is this correct?
Essentially you are right. Nice to have the main switch illuminated if you are entering the van at night and need a guide. Even a small light on the switch can be annoying at night.
Hi David, thanks for the video, very informative, just so you know i think it skipped backwards at one point in the middle but no complaints from me. question - you wired your lights direct back to the fuse box, but if you opted not to do this and run all the switches in parallel, do you need to insure that the main battery wires in and out to the switch panel are rated for all devices to be running at once?
Hi David, question if I may? With the 5 switches, could you use 1 for the isolated in the board instead of being separate? Use one for the lights as you have done in this example. But then use the other 3 to act as switches for the below 3 components (cigarette/voltmeter/USB)? So left to right: - Isolater switch (panel on/off) - cigarette on/off - voltmeter on/off - USB on/off - light switch (on/off) Thanks!
Yes, that would work, and a good idea. I used a key-type isolator switch for added security. On my final van build, however, I will be sure to use your suggestion. Great idea.
I’m not clear from about 8mins on, after you say ‘now what I want to do’ about five times! Then it’s hard to see when camera is giving a side view. So, what did you do to make the main switch only switch off the board except for the two switches?
Here's a though what would be the down side to keeping everything wired how it came and just have one single cable going to the fuse block!? Currently that's the route I'm thinking of going
Hi Matthew, the remote switch I made could be used on the panel. This would turn the panel on and off at the panel. I needed a separate switch at the other end of the van to turn the lights off at night. This certainly could be done. I might try to do a video on it at a later date. I'm busy working on my smart car at the moment.
@shed52 thanks for your response I'm in the process of converting a maxi caddy so found it very helpful. Would I be able to add a dimmer switch before a switch onnthe controle pannel? The lights are dimmable would be handy to have a dimmer and a switch kn the board. All the best with the smart car !
Great vid, one question.. where does the negative wire of your light appliances go to ? The switch board only has one negative, do you connect all the appliance negatives to the negative bus bar or the fuse box??
On the jig the negatives feed back to a buzz bar and then a signle cable back to the battery. On the van I'll do the same feeding the cables to a negative buzz bar and then probably both to a common ground on the chassis. My van (would be motorhome) is currently off the road while I put a cylinder head on, which meansd I'm a bit frustrated in that I cant yet do a final electrical instalation. Thanks for question, David
Hi David wonder if you could help I've hooked up the control pannel and used a switch on the pannel to turn it on and off. Unfortunately the volt meter reads only 6.2v and the usb and 12v socket does not work thanks David
@shed52 thanks I checked the battery and the fuse box reading where both 13.4v. I tried wiring straight to the switch on the control pannel but did not wire a negitive from the switch to the bus board just the negitive from the main negitive in cpuld that be the problem?
@@Matthew-hs1qi That would be the next thing to do, and check your ground wires. Dosnt sound like the switch is faulty because you are getting a reading. I would run like you suggest a negative to the buss bar and see if that makes a difference. Are all the negatives from the lights going back to the same negative or earth?
@shed52 sorted thanks I needed to add the second negitive to the switch on the control board thanks for your time. You was right a month back you can make a switch on the pannel the switch that turns the control pannel on and off 👍
I have the same lights all wired separately on there own individual switches , they all work ok but the blue light on the switch doesn’t light up, what I am doing wrong
Hi John, I assume you have a live red wire coming from the fuse to the switch and then the return cable going to a negative pole of a fuse box or ground to the van? Could you let me know, and if it's still not illuminating please let me know.
I have been going insane trying to see how I would even start with this thing. Thanks so much! Your video has been a big help.
Glad it was helpful.
By far the best tutorial for these switches. Thanks for breaking down how you used it with different circuits.
Thank you Brian, your feedback is really appreciated.
Thanks for the feedback Brian.
Very clear, simple and informative video. Great help to the DYI community who have basic knowledge and understanding of DC Electric system.🙏🏿
Yes thanks 🙏🏻. I’ve recently bought a switch board box from Kings in WA Aus. I was considering many different options for wiring my services in a Van . You have opened my eyes to possibilities..
especially the master switch concept . Makes perfect sense to me now..
cheers David.
I’ll look at more of your posts in the future..!
Regards
G
Great video.
Most helpful video I’ve watched on wiring up the 12v thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thank you for the really positive feedback.
David you the best, thank you for your in-depth tutorial. Im currently living in my van and right now have to turn the lights off by removing the fuse at the fuse board (pain in the ass when your going to bed). I had purchased one of these switch boards a while back and could not wrap my head around how to wire it. Most of the other videos felt hard to understand or just cowboys wiring it.
Again, great job and keep up the great work.
Liked and subscribed, thank Sir!
Thank you for the feedback, hope you have a better night's sleep. I'm way off moving into my van, but any advice for the first night would be great.
Thank you for the great video. You cover some methods others do not. If a switch is simply closing the circuit via the hot wire why do they have a negative pole? All I can figure is to illuminate the blue LED indicator in the switch and if you didn’t want that then leave the negative off. Is this correct?
Essentially you are right. Nice to have the main switch illuminated if you are entering the van at night and need a guide. Even a small light on the switch can be annoying at night.
Really great videos. I like your style and approach. Am learning a ton. Thanks!
Brilliant David. Super helpful to see it close up on a table like this. Thank you. RUclips at its best.
Thank you Jon
Perfect mate thanks clears me right up ready to do mine.
Take your time and enjoy.
Great explanation!!
Thank you Jose.
Hi David, thanks for the video, very informative, just so you know i think it skipped backwards at one point in the middle but no complaints from me. question - you wired your lights direct back to the fuse box, but if you opted not to do this and run all the switches in parallel, do you need to insure that the main battery wires in and out to the switch panel are rated for all devices to be running at once?
Thank you, George, I'll take a look today, and see if I can fix the issue.
Hi David, question if I may? With the 5 switches, could you use 1 for the isolated in the board instead of being separate? Use one for the lights as you have done in this example. But then use the other 3 to act as switches for the below 3 components (cigarette/voltmeter/USB)?
So left to right:
- Isolater switch (panel on/off)
- cigarette on/off
- voltmeter on/off
- USB on/off
- light switch (on/off)
Thanks!
Yes, that would work, and a good idea. I used a key-type isolator switch for added security. On my final van build, however, I will be sure to use your suggestion. Great idea.
Brilliant tutorial thank you 👍
Thank you.
I’m not clear from about 8mins on, after you say ‘now what I want to do’ about five times! Then it’s hard to see when camera is giving a side view. So, what did you do to make the main switch only switch off the board except for the two switches?
I'll take a look at the video over the weekend. Thank you for the feedback.
Cheers from Florida David 👋🏻
You are very welcome, from Oxford
Here's a though what would be the down side to keeping everything wired how it came and just have one single cable going to the fuse block!? Currently that's the route I'm thinking of going
Thanks great video is there anyway of making the on and off switch for the control one of the switches on the pannel?
Hi Matthew, the remote switch I made could be used on the panel. This would turn the panel on and off at the panel. I needed a separate switch at the other end of the van to turn the lights off at night. This certainly could be done. I might try to do a video on it at a later date. I'm busy working on my smart car at the moment.
@shed52 thanks for your response I'm in the process of converting a maxi caddy so found it very helpful. Would I be able to add a dimmer switch before a switch onnthe controle pannel? The lights are dimmable would be handy to have a dimmer and a switch kn the board. All the best with the smart car !
I think one would cancel out the other, , but I'll have a look to see what options there are. @@Matthew-hs1qi
@shed52 thanks hopefully I'll be doing it in a month see what happens
Would this work with LED strip lights? Also your dimmer switch is 4amps, my LED strip need a 3amp dimmer switch. Would the 4amp version be ok?
Great vid, one question.. where does the negative wire of your light appliances go to ? The switch board only has one negative, do you connect all the appliance negatives to the negative bus bar or the fuse box??
On the jig the negatives feed back to a buzz bar and then a signle cable back to the battery. On the van I'll do the same feeding the cables to a negative buzz bar and then probably both to a common ground on the chassis. My van (would be motorhome) is currently off the road while I put a cylinder head on, which meansd I'm a bit frustrated in that I cant yet do a final electrical instalation. Thanks for question, David
Can the negative cable from any alliance go straight to the fuse box ? I wasn't thinking of fitting a bus bar
Thank you
Can I ask please the live and the earth from the switch what size cable do you use.
Hi Anthony, I used 1mm cross section cable rated at 16.5 amps. I think I bought about 100m for about £16 on amazon amzn.to/3j9ZS3M
Hi David wonder if you could help I've hooked up the control pannel and used a switch on the pannel to turn it on and off. Unfortunately the volt meter reads only 6.2v and the usb and 12v socket does not work thanks David
I'd check the source of the power first if you are using a leisure battery, it might be best to check its charge.
@shed52 thanks I checked the battery and the fuse box reading where both 13.4v. I tried wiring straight to the switch on the control pannel but did not wire a negitive from the switch to the bus board just the negitive from the main negitive in cpuld that be the problem?
@@Matthew-hs1qi That would be the next thing to do, and check your ground wires. Dosnt sound like the switch is faulty because you are getting a reading. I would run like you suggest a negative to the buss bar and see if that makes a difference. Are all the negatives from the lights going back to the same negative or earth?
@shed52 sorted thanks I needed to add the second negitive to the switch on the control board thanks for your time. You was right a month back you can make a switch on the pannel the switch that turns the control pannel on and off 👍
Glad to hear its now fixed@@Matthew-hs1qi
I have the same lights all wired separately on there own individual switches , they all work ok but the blue light on the switch doesn’t light up, what I am doing wrong
Hi John, I assume you have a live red wire coming from the fuse to the switch and then the return cable going to a negative pole of a fuse box or ground to the van? Could you let me know, and if it's still not illuminating please let me know.