Exactly what PBS#007 said. Don't be worried about if you bore people. People won't watch the video if they think you're boring. Excellent video! Keep them coming please bud 👌🤙
I bought one of these 5 gang power hubs for my camper van and was a bit confused about how everything wired in properly. I watched your video and replicated every single aspect on your video all the way down to the isolation switch. Everything is working 100%. I would just like to say that this video is Brilliant and you made my job a hell of a lot easier by the way you explained everything to me. Thank you so much for this video….👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
You do the same as he done in the video but instead of adding the extra switch you just do it on to one of the switchs on the panel I didn’t use a fuse as there is already one on the switch
You made this look easy and easy to understand maybe do another explaining what size fuses and how to work what size fuse you need for ie watts divided by volts equals amps
Follow up: I was doing what you showed and I thought I only needed 2 spare switches. So I took the 12 v meter positive wire from the meter and pulled it off and took the #6 switch fuse wire and attached to the positive lead on meter and it worked. So i did the same procedure for the USB and it worked. Beings the 12v utility socket isn't alive till you plug something in I left it alone. If you didn't make your video I would have never thought of any of this. Thanks again, Mike.
Surprised the switch panel doesn't come with a block like that to connect the negatives coming from your loads, so glad I found this video! Awesome job explaining it!
I had a go with using one of the switches to control power to the voltmeter. Here is how I did it: ruclips.net/video/NTErvErgJEE/видео.html. To isolate the whole panel, extend that concept by having the rest of the power coming from the first switch load.
echoing the comments below really, thanks for posting this video! when searching this topic, many videos show how to poke wires through holes 🤦.. not helpful! For a novice like me, your video is so helpful. To the point, spelling out what might be obvious to some, not me. thanks.
You couldn't have illustrated this any better! I took delivery of my panel today, took it out of the box and had no idea what was going on 🤣 You, my friend, have just saved me a whole lot of confusion and swearing. Thanks!
You sir are a legend hats off to you explaining it so easy. And its neater than fuse box and can have it where u want it in van makes it nice looking and in back can just have solar set up. The isolation button a must ie when not in use.
Like many below I am not an electrician , you explain how and straight easy terms I was wondering how the negetive was going to work , now I do well done KP
Straight forward and simple, great, could you update with a newer version of the negative plastic wiring block though. ? Someone mentioned another method (a post ?)
Thanks from me too. I have this panel in my van already but needed the method of connecting a new device clarified which you did perfectly. Appreciate the assist,
Outstanding video! Really struggled to understand my antique bass boat renovation wiring to include this same panel ! Very clear, I’ve got a control panel antique now! Very clear, easy to understand video ! Thanks so much! Incredibly helpful! Well done Sir !! This WORKS FINE !!
Thanks Mark, this was just what i was looking for. an easy to understand video for someone who has no idea about wiring. Like Gordon, i have just picked up an old camper van and the wiring is non existent of lethal! so I'm starting again. thanks for the video and a pointer in the right direction.
Brilliant! I just purchased an older conversion van and the 4 gang switch panel controlling lights throughout the van is a bit worse for wear. I will be replacing the panel with a 4 gang version of the panel you wired in this video. Your explanation has saved me a tremendous amount of searching for an original wiring diagram for this older vehicle. I am now confident I can install the new switch without starting a fire or shorting out the electrical system! Thanks, mate!
If you want to use one of the switches as a master switch: On the switch where the power comes in (far right most) there's a positive and negative lead that would go to a battery (or the way mark set it up, an additional master switch). I figured, since there's already five switches there let's use one of them as the master. It will be the one where the power comes in. The top wire is the ground (black), middle wire is load (what will go to whatever you're powering up) and the bottom one is the positive in. When you turn on the switch, it takes the power from the bottom connector and sends it to the middle connector. So to make that switch a master switch that turns off the power to the rest of the switches (and volt meter and USB plug) so you don't just have a phantom load, you just reverse the middle and bottom wires from how they came from the factory ON THE FIRST SWITCH ONLY. So you'll notice that the bottom connectors are all chained together. What you want to do is make it so the "load" from the first switch sends power to the rest of them. Disconnect the bottom and middle connectors (of the first switch only!), connect what was connected to the bottom connector to the middle connector instead. Then take the one you disconnected from the middle switch and connect it to the bottom connector, and that will go to your battery (and it comes with a fuse built in! - might want to upgrade it to a 30A as all the other loads are going to go through this switch now). Now when you turn on the first (far right) switch, it will send power on to the rest of the switches.
Hey man, I saw your long explanation on how to make a master switch and thought it was so advanced that you might know the answer to my other question ! The negative wire on this switch board is really thin, right ? It's less than awg 16 probably (which I think the red wires are). First of all, is that not strange, and second of all, is that not limiting the amount of amps you should run through this board ? I had a 50W fridge and 85W laptop charger plus a few USB extras, now from my (noobish) calculatjons it seems like this small baby negative wire isn't even made to handle that! What do you think ? Thanks 😲
@@meyqool you are correct to worry, these switches will take up to 35amps each, the wiring supplied is no where near any good for that, if you use relays the switch panel will only be switching the relay (less than 1 amp), the advice given is poor if you intend to use high current devices, you are likely to start a fire. Use the correct gauge wiring for the current you need and that is where relays come in to it, even if you put 20amps through these switches it won't take long for them to burn out
@@Alton-x Thanks for the reply ! It worked so far with a 50W fridge, 85W laptop and charge phone, tested over several months. But yeah I am not happy with this doomed black wire they provide in it, which seems like a pain to change, and I am not advanced enough to understand the wiring you describe 🤪
I had in mind to do better battery connections for my telescope setup, but I had doubts because it's my first DIY project for me, but your explanations gave me the confidence to go with it and ... it worked ! :D Thank you for the video!
This is outstanding i was trying to figure out the approach to setting up to battery and i would have totally missed that it remains live until done. This video also shows that a panel like this would be better if a power toggle switch to battery was already on this panel. This shows you're still better off buying the isolation switch and connector as well as block connector for negative. Thanks for links that also helps. 👍👍👍👍👋👋👋
get the same switch panel today but with green LED‘s 😁 thanks for helping me how to do it the right way and not like the most times like may way 😜 cause that takes more time and some flashes to my fingers 😂
@@MrMeltedwellies l followed your instructions and everything worked perfectly, before I watching your presentation I thought l had a faulty pump and tap having said that l was wrong You saved the day Thanks, so much, keep up the good work kind regards Terry
I like how you keep things simple. I'm yet to do this. Have you done a blog on wiring up start to finish? It's great that you get to the point. Keep them coming. Thank you very much 😊
Ich habe auch diese Schalttafel in meinem Minicamper " Pudu " verbaut , die 5 Fliegenden Sicherungen habe ich allerdings Ausgebaut und über einen Sicherungskasten abgesichert . Die Schalter waren übrigens mit einer 15 A abgesichert .
They do, 4-5 prong switches have switch and device negative prongs, you can save wire grounding to metal, I run relays so the switch is just a positive interrupter grounded in the cab of my 4x4
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. As most people said, it is very helpful. I would like to ask few questions if you allow me. Note: As I have no experience with electricity, some of them may not make sense at all. 1. What is the role of the additional in-line fuse you added near the extra switch, as each switch on the panel has its own fuse? 2. What cable size would you recommend to connect the battery to the panel? 3. I have read somewhere that car accessories do not need to be connected to negative. Instead, I could ground them to the vehicle. Is that true? 4. I am not planning on using it for heavy stuff, only led lights, so I assume I do not need to upgrade any wires or fuses. What specification should I look for to make sure it will not exceed the capacity? Many Thanks
My problem with your switch is depending on how many amps you're pulling through the switch could overload the switch itself and cause it to burn out. My suggestion is get a relay and wire it in so the load is not a the power switch but on the switches in the control panel. I believe your switch is rated at 5amp.
I've always hated electrics, always struggled with them in my previous camper...this is a gem, cheers ! I've successfully wired in my switch panel to 10 LEDs, 1 strip light and some fairy lights....
i have the same control box, i swapped the wires around on the back so the the middle switch is for the incoming power, so that switches it all on or off.
I had the same idea but remember that the master switch must be capable of feeding all the other switch circuits, I think that the switches are capable of carrying approx 15A.
Hi there! I just wanted to reach out and let you know that I loved your video, thank you so much! I learned a lot from it, especially as a first-time boat owner with limited electrical knowledge. The video was a tremendous help. However, I had a question regarding the switch that you mentioned in the video. Is that switch connected using an SAE connector to an O ring? I didn't quite grasp that concept and would appreciate some clarification on how it works and connect the cables Once again, thank you for creating such an informative video. It's been incredibly valuable to me as I navigate my new role as a boat owner.
You should use multi strand cable not single core as vibration in vehicles can cause bending over time and cause single core to snap easier and start electrical fires. Single core is designed for static residential use. When it comes to electrics or gas always consult a professional. Your life could depend on it.
Because you took the time to explain the wiring, that makes this video a great video, that is why people watch these videos thanks.
I appreciate that thanks
Exactly what PBS#007 said. Don't be worried about if you bore people. People won't watch the video if they think you're boring. Excellent video! Keep them coming please bud 👌🤙
What gauge wire do you use? @@MrMeltedwellies
I bought one of these 5 gang power hubs for my camper van and was a bit confused about how everything wired in properly. I watched your video and replicated every single aspect on your video all the way down to the isolation switch. Everything is working 100%. I would just like to say that this video is Brilliant and you made my job a hell of a lot easier by the way you explained everything to me. Thank you so much for this video….👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Thank you Richie
I just made one of the switches on the panel a off/on switch to power it instead of running a separate switch works great
Did you run it off a relay or just an inline fuse to a switch to the panel?
How
You do the same as he done in the video but instead of adding the extra switch you just do it on to one of the switchs on the panel I didn’t use a fuse as there is already one on the switch
Same,, works fine
I was wondering why he didn’t do that.
Nice and simple. Tells us the basics without either patronising or assuming we know more than we do, really helpful. Thanks
Glad it was helpful Andy
You made this look easy and easy to understand maybe do another explaining what size fuses and how to work what size fuse you need for ie watts divided by volts equals amps
I never write on these things but compelled to with this ,excellent ,simple and concise. I understood it completely,well done !
Hi, I noticed how old this video is but it was exactly what I was after! Thanks for taking the time to upload, super helpful 😁👍
You're so welcome!
Follow up: I was doing what you showed and I thought I only needed 2 spare switches. So I took the 12 v meter positive wire from the meter and pulled it off and took the #6 switch fuse wire and attached to the positive lead on meter and it worked. So i did the same procedure for the USB and it worked. Beings the 12v utility socket isn't alive till you plug something in I left it alone. If you didn't make your video I would have never thought of any of this. Thanks again, Mike.
Mike you are so welcome thanks for watching
Surprised the switch panel doesn't come with a block like that to connect the negatives coming from your loads, so glad I found this video! Awesome job explaining it!
thank you so much ,,I bought exactly this ,,saw the positive wires and thought ive been ripped off ,,,thank you for helping one dumb lad ❤👍👍👍
Wow! Finally instructions in layman’s terms. Well done pal this is a great help for a novice like me. 👍
This was so helpful. I couldn't figure out what to connect all the negative wires from my lights to to complete the circuit. Thanks so much.
Glad it helped!
Very nice instructional video. Thorough explanation without being too technical....Cheers
Very helpful. So many confusing 😕 videos on RUclips on this subject. To the point and simple to follow. Thankyou
Mark, could you please show us how you would use the 1st switch as the power on/off switch, video is great, very simple to follow, thanks.
got a new video coming this weekend
Are you asking if it's possible to make one of the switches an isolation switch for the panel?
This would be ideal
I had a go with using one of the switches to control power to the voltmeter. Here is how I did it: ruclips.net/video/NTErvErgJEE/видео.html. To isolate the whole panel, extend that concept by having the rest of the power coming from the first switch load.
echoing the comments below really, thanks for posting this video! when searching this topic, many videos show how to poke wires through holes 🤦.. not helpful! For a novice like me, your video is so helpful. To the point, spelling out what might be obvious to some, not me. thanks.
You couldn't have illustrated this any better!
I took delivery of my panel today, took it out of the box and had no idea what was going on 🤣
You, my friend, have just saved me a whole lot of confusion and swearing.
Thanks!
Glad it helped!
This completely helped me understand how to install this panel and how to utilize the bus bar. Excellent tutorial. Thank you
Glad it helped
This is great! Making a truck camper and trying to figure out electrical,, Much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
You sir are a legend hats off to you explaining it so easy. And its neater than fuse box and can have it where u want it in van makes it nice looking and in back can just have solar set up. The isolation button a must ie when not in use.
Thanks so much finally a video I can understand ! :)
Like many below I am not an electrician , you explain how and straight easy terms I was wondering how the negetive was going to work , now I do well done KP
Great video but instead of using a block for your negative could you not just connect all the black wires to a busbar?
I used a block for the negative.
Thanks so much. This is the best video i´ve ever seen about wiring a switch panel on youtube. Thank you again
Thanks for this! I’m about to rewrite my T5 camper. Previous wiring was done really badly! Not one fuse to be seen!! Thank you again
No problem 👍 Rebecca
This is well explained, and without any type of music in the background.
Thanks mate. This really helped with understanding how to wiring this up and wiring in general. Appreciate the help
Glad it helped
Brilliant made it so easy, no technical jargon,, just straight forward 👍👍👍👍
Perfect. Thanks. Wired my van up with confidence
Glad it helped
Outstanding.... I finally understand connector boxes and bus bars properly..... thankyou, that was the perfect demo for what I needed
Straight forward and simple, great, could you update with a newer version of the negative plastic wiring block though. ?
Someone mentioned another method (a post ?)
will do
Extremely helpful. I didn't know how to ground all of my wires. Great video.
Thanks from me too. I have this panel in my van already but needed the method of connecting a new device clarified which you did perfectly. Appreciate the assist,
You're welcome!
Nice little control panel, just got the same type. Another option for - wires is to run them to a post. Saves a bit of wiring on the plastic block.
Outstanding video! Really struggled to understand my antique bass boat renovation wiring to include this same panel ! Very clear, I’ve got a control panel antique now! Very clear, easy to understand video ! Thanks so much! Incredibly helpful! Well done Sir !! This WORKS FINE !!
Glad you liked it Dennis
Instaling this same panel in my van next week great vid well explained feel more confident after watching thankyou
Really helpful , shed loads of light on it for me and answered all my questions ! Top fella !
Glad it helped
Fantastic. I have the same type of panel you have and "Now" it all makes sense, Thanks so much and I also downloaded your video.
You're welcome Michael
Thanks Mark, this was just what i was looking for. an easy to understand video for someone who has no idea about wiring. Like Gordon, i have just picked up an old camper van and the wiring is non existent of lethal! so I'm starting again. thanks for the video and a pointer in the right direction.
Brilliant! I just purchased an older conversion van and the 4 gang switch panel controlling lights throughout the van is a bit worse for wear. I will be replacing the panel with a 4 gang version of the panel you wired in this video. Your explanation has saved me a tremendous amount of searching for an original wiring diagram for this older vehicle. I am now confident I can install the new switch without starting a fire or shorting out the electrical system! Thanks, mate!
Thanks for watching Gordon
If you want to use one of the switches as a master switch: On the switch where the power comes in (far right most) there's a positive and negative lead that would go to a battery (or the way mark set it up, an additional master switch). I figured, since there's already five switches there let's use one of them as the master. It will be the one where the power comes in. The top wire is the ground (black), middle wire is load (what will go to whatever you're powering up) and the bottom one is the positive in. When you turn on the switch, it takes the power from the bottom connector and sends it to the middle connector. So to make that switch a master switch that turns off the power to the rest of the switches (and volt meter and USB plug) so you don't just have a phantom load, you just reverse the middle and bottom wires from how they came from the factory ON THE FIRST SWITCH ONLY. So you'll notice that the bottom connectors are all chained together. What you want to do is make it so the "load" from the first switch sends power to the rest of them. Disconnect the bottom and middle connectors (of the first switch only!), connect what was connected to the bottom connector to the middle connector instead. Then take the one you disconnected from the middle switch and connect it to the bottom connector, and that will go to your battery (and it comes with a fuse built in! - might want to upgrade it to a 30A as all the other loads are going to go through this switch now). Now when you turn on the first (far right) switch, it will send power on to the rest of the switches.
Hey man, I saw your long explanation on how to make a master switch and thought it was so advanced that you might know the answer to my other question ! The negative wire on this switch board is really thin, right ? It's less than awg 16 probably (which I think the red wires are). First of all, is that not strange, and second of all, is that not limiting the amount of amps you should run through this board ? I had a 50W fridge and 85W laptop charger plus a few USB extras, now from my (noobish) calculatjons it seems like this small baby negative wire isn't even made to handle that! What do you think ? Thanks 😲
@@meyqool you are correct to worry, these switches will take up to 35amps each, the wiring supplied is no where near any good for that, if you use relays the switch panel will only be switching the relay (less than 1 amp), the advice given is poor if you intend to use high current devices, you are likely to start a fire. Use the correct gauge wiring for the current you need and that is where relays come in to it, even if you put 20amps through these switches it won't take long for them to burn out
@@Alton-x Thanks for the reply ! It worked so far with a 50W fridge, 85W laptop and charge phone, tested over several months. But yeah I am not happy with this doomed black wire they provide in it, which seems like a pain to change, and I am not advanced enough to understand the wiring you describe 🤪
@@meyqool to work out current draw, amps = watts ÷ volts (Google Watts law, very simple maths) 85w ÷12v = 7amps
Thank you for sharing this. Greetings from Romania, you saved my day!
You're welcome!
Mine comes tomorrow. Thank you for the video 😊
Excellent video nice and simple thanks👍🏼
Glad you liked it! thanks for watching
I had in mind to do better battery connections for my telescope setup, but I had doubts because it's my first DIY project for me, but your explanations gave me the confidence to go with it and ... it worked ! :D
Thank you for the video!
Brilliant. Just bought this exact gang panel and this was the perfect explanation, many thanks
Glad it helped Matt
Probably could have used a bus bar instead of a terminal block for the negative side, but good to see all all the same. Nice video Mark.
Thanks 👍 just boughtt a bus bar so ill give it a go
@@MrMeltedwellies so with the bus bar there would be no reason to loop those wires? Correct? Just connect negative from load?
Want to give you a round of applause for doing this... Well done Mark!
Awesome video just what I needed 😊
Glad I could help!
Brilliant, thank you. Just bought one of these to build a solar trailer setup and the clarity of your explanation really helped. Cheers! Mick.
This is outstanding i was trying to figure out the approach to setting up to battery and i would have totally missed that it remains live until done. This video also shows that a panel like this would be better if a power toggle switch to battery was already on this panel. This shows you're still better off buying the isolation switch and connector as well as block connector for negative. Thanks for links that also helps. 👍👍👍👍👋👋👋
Thanks Vince
Excellent content. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Best explanation on you tube
Much appreciated
Wow, thanks Ryan
Perfect man! Just what I was looking for. Cheers!
I have used a separate fuse box where all the +ve and -ve feeds go, to me it looks neater.
Geat video. Explained well and easy to understand. Thank you very much
Great video. Thanks for the instructions. You have given me the confidence to giving this a go.
Thanks for sharing just fitting one in my camper van and was wondering how to earth everything just the ticket nicely explained 👍
Glad it was helpful Bob
so calm ,clear, and simple excellent
Many thanks!
Perfect explanation!!
Just rewired my boat with everything you explained.. love it 👍🏼👍🏼
get the same switch panel today but with green LED‘s 😁 thanks for helping me how to do it the right way and not like the most times like may way 😜 cause that takes more time and some flashes to my fingers 😂
Installing the same panel in my camper. Great job.
Good luck!
very same panel on its way and now i am prepared to wire it correctly thank you
All the best
Extremely well presented kind regards Terry
Thank you Terry
@@MrMeltedwellies l followed your instructions and everything worked perfectly, before I watching your presentation I thought l had a faulty pump and tap having said that l was wrong You saved the day Thanks, so much, keep up the good work kind regards Terry
I like how you keep things simple. I'm yet to do this. Have you done a blog on wiring up start to finish?
It's great that you get to the point. Keep them coming. Thank you very much 😊
Thanks...just the job...clearly and calmly presented 👍
Ich habe auch diese Schalttafel in meinem Minicamper " Pudu " verbaut , die 5 Fliegenden Sicherungen habe ich allerdings Ausgebaut und über einen Sicherungskasten abgesichert . Die Schalter waren übrigens mit einer 15 A abgesichert .
Brilliant clip, I have this panel, and plan to wire in various 'off grid' electrics in my Land Rover. Perfect clip for a beginner like myself.
They do, 4-5 prong switches have switch and device negative prongs, you can save wire grounding to metal, I run relays so the switch is just a positive interrupter grounded in the cab of my 4x4
Very simple, straight forward video, thank you!
Thanks for watching Donald
Good job mate, thankyou. Clear and easily to follow..
Glad it helped James
Brilliant !! Thansk for the help
Very nice step by step. Thank you...
Well done!!! This will help many people. Good Show.
Cheers!!!
Brilliant so patient and detailed 👌🏻
Thank you for this video Awesome information and helped me wire my truck
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. As most people said, it is very helpful. I would like to ask few questions if you allow me. Note: As I have no experience with electricity, some of them may not make sense at all.
1. What is the role of the additional in-line fuse you added near the extra switch, as each switch on the panel has its own fuse?
2. What cable size would you recommend to connect the battery to the panel?
3. I have read somewhere that car accessories do not need to be connected to negative. Instead, I could ground them to the vehicle. Is that true?
4. I am not planning on using it for heavy stuff, only led lights, so I assume I do not need to upgrade any wires or fuses. What specification should I look for to make sure it will not exceed the capacity?
Many Thanks
Great simple video .. straight and to the point. Thank you for sharing
That was the instruction I needed. Thank you
My problem with your switch is depending on how many amps you're pulling through the switch could overload the switch itself and cause it to burn out. My suggestion is get a relay and wire it in so the load is not a the power switch but on the switches in the control panel. I believe your switch is rated at 5amp.
Brilliant video, thanks! Copied everything you've done today and it was a big help
Could use a 5 way Wago. Cut out the little cables. Great video. 👍🏻
Thanks for the tip! Adam
Thanks so much mate for this video... simple and easy
You're very welcome!
Excellent video .building a day van very helpful thank you .
Glad it was helpful! Mr Chill
Thank you so much ! I’m trying to add some lights to my bass raider ! This seems simple !
Glad I could help Erica
subbed after watching this fantastic explanation.
Great video. Explanation was well done. Thanks for posting.
You're welcome!
Excellent. Thanks
Love this thank you made it so much clearer on how to wire up the van!!
You're welcome Holly
I've always hated electrics, always struggled with them in my previous camper...this is a gem, cheers ! I've successfully wired in my switch panel to 10 LEDs, 1 strip light and some fairy lights....
That was great. I’m not clear as to why the connector block was necessary.
Thank you for this really informative video Mark. A great help and really appreciated .
Very welcome Pete
Installing this exact model in my boat next week. Cheers for the breakdown.
I always made my own switch panels
great tutorial,explained so simple.thank you👍👍
Brilliant easy way of explaining.. thank you👍👍
i have the same control box, i swapped the wires around on the back so the the middle switch is for the incoming power, so that switches it all on or off.
Paul Compton PDphotography GREAT idea!
I had the same idea but remember that the master switch must be capable of feeding all the other switch circuits, I think that the switches are capable of carrying approx 15A.
Thanks mate. Installed in my van today. You made it easy for me. 👍
Hi there! I just wanted to reach out and let you know that I loved your video, thank you so much! I learned a lot from it, especially as a first-time boat owner with limited electrical knowledge. The video was a tremendous help.
However, I had a question regarding the switch that you mentioned in the video. Is that switch connected using an SAE connector to an O ring? I didn't quite grasp that concept and would appreciate some clarification on how it works and connect the cables
Once again, thank you for creating such an informative video. It's been incredibly valuable to me as I navigate my new role as a boat owner.
this might explain it better then me typing a load of waffle thank you for your comment and watching ATB Mark
ruclips.net/video/wpnqvNS5jqg/видео.html
Legend. I can wire my day van now. I have the exact same switch panel. I was stumped! But not anymore!
You should use multi strand cable not single core as vibration in vehicles can cause bending over time and cause single core to snap easier and start electrical fires. Single core is designed for static residential use. When it comes to electrics or gas always consult a professional. Your life could depend on it.
Wago connector blocks will be much quicker and easier for connecting all the negatives together. Just a thought.
That's what he did didn't he ?