I've learned more in the last 13 minutes than I have in my entire life about wiring. I always seem to let it get to me and overcomplicate things. This made it a breeze to understand. Simple actually. Thanks!
Electrical work is an absolute nightmare for me. Thanks for breaking it down as simply as you did on here. I’ll probably end up watching this video a few more times but I have a good idea in my head now.
This is the best, easiest to understand video I’ve ever watched on general boat wiring. You gave me confidence to rewire my boat. (Several gauges don’t work). I’ll check out your store. Thank you'
Am looking to get a used boat that will definitely become a project. The boat is 33 years old so I am going to redo every system in it to include the electrical wiring, gauges, pumps, convert to LED lighting thru-out and generally whatever it needs. I am medically retired so as long as I am above ground, I will have and make time to work on the boat. Even if I go before the boat sees the water again, I will pass it on to my brother who is a fisherman. It is also therapy. Thanks for providing an easy to use diagram. I am mechanically inclined and have put together 4x4's and a few other things. Wiring seemed to be my weak area, may because of the intimidation factor. But it should go smoothly now. Thanks again.
Small but important point ... follow standard DC wiring code and use RED for the positive and BLACK for the negative. You can also purchase some flexible plastic conduit that you run all the wires through and makes it much tidier and easier to keep compartments clean. Your video was easy to follow.
Yellow is the international color code for D.C. neg. The boating industry went to this because of boats shipped overseas where in many countries black is used for both D.C. & A.C. electric positive/line in .
Just inherited a 1978 sea nymph fishing machine and need to figure out the trim tilt wiring , now I want to rewire the whole thing and add more lights. Your came out super clean good work
Great video. I didn't even know there was a difference in the wire. I just got my first boat I'm a 44 year old car guy and planned on doing my boat like a car. Thanks for teaching me and saving me some future headaches.
If you run either of the cable types through conduit then they will likely last the same amount of time and you should be tinning your own wire ends and fluxing up before hearing solder. Rosin core solder still gets cold solders if you don't use flux. Heating "low temp" solder is not in any way ideal and I'm suprised he went for that since he was clued up about the wire guage.
great video! i have one question--the switch board i bought has 1 end on the back that’s open. so if i run the bilge pump wire into the back of the switches only open pin, how do i run that pin into my fuse box? do i just piggy back the wires at the pin?
So the wire runs from the fuse box to the switch and then to whatever I am running. The ground wire only goes to the negative of the fuse box from whatever I am running. The battery wires both go to the fuse box. I should use a shut off switch so I can stop the current to the fuse box. Is this correct? If so I've got it. What about fish finders? Can they go through the fuse box with everything else and to a switch to turn it on? I know the wires are quite small that run the fish finders. I'm re-wiring a Deep V row boat my buddy gave me. I'm going to be building a deck system similar to a bass boat and want to re-due his wiring. The old wiring wasn't any good and everything was corroded, rusted, and rotted away. He had minimal stuff. Thanks
Excellent video! This will really help me planning and executing the installation in my sailboat which I'm restoring. This video saves me a lot of thinking! Many thanks!
Michael Lopez. Great videos. Just wanted to tell you about my boat build. Its a 16' john boat side console. I put in rear deck with gas and battery compartment behind two seats and a bait well. The bait well is led lit with two pumps. If im fishing skinny water i can use one pump to recirculate the filled bait well or if im fishing deeper water i can run mu fill pump and switch my recirculate pump to discharge for continuous fresh exchange. I have another casting deck up front that covers my 24vdc battery system for my trolling motor with storage for life vest and such.. For lights im running led NAV, Anchor, Green underwater lights, green bait well light, and 2x 2k lux spot lights up front. The boat is powered by a 40hp outboard with dedicated battery and bilge pump. I originally this project 3 years ago. I only got to use it a hand full of times befoe i was forced to park it. The trailer colapsed during a hurricane and my wife fell ill needing a few surgeries. ( she is very well now). Im excited to say that im almost finished getting the boat back together. With a new to me trailer and fixing some problems with the motor i just took her out for a test run last weekend. She runs great. Cant wait to go fishing. Im so proud of the boat and all the work i put into it. I learned so much from the TBN community and others like it. Thanks for doing these videos. Keep up the great work.
Trying to get all the stuff connected directly to my cranking battery on the boat to a board. I order the Blue Sea 5025 St Blade Fuse Block W/Cover - 6 Circuit W/Negative Bus. I got a different one that only has positive. Not sure how your supposed to connect only the positive side of all your accessories so I'm returning that one. I ordered this other Blue Sea fuse block. Hopefully that will work. Our boat has hardly any room in the area where the battery is at. Have to route all the wires positive and negative to the Blue Sea Block. Every time I have to remove the battery it is a total nightmare to get all the wires back on the battery when I put it back in. Have had several times missed a wire that falls to the back and have even had to remove the battery to find the missing wire. So I am looking at installing the Blue Sea 5025 St Blade Fuse Block W/Cover - 6 Circuit W/Negative Bus when I get it. Not sure I even have anywhere to put a on / Off switch at the battery where I would hook onto the battery for the Blue Sea blade.
You need to slide to heat shrink butt connector down the wire then fray both ends of wire and twist them together then pull your butt connector over them and heat makes the pull strength a 10x's stronger but great videos man very inspiring 👍
Hey Bro, thanks for video. Just bought a 1982 Cajun bass boat that needs to be completely re-wired. Can’t find boat electrical diagrams or manuals. So, my question to you is, how to set it up for re-wire, and what supplies to bye? Help. AJ, thx
Excellent video! Does anyone can help me to find out what size of fuse should I install to protect the possitive instalation of my boat? I have a 4 stroke Honda BF150HP ? thanks!!!
The question I have is I have a 1991 bass buggy 16ft pontoon boat. I've completely restored this pontoon boat but I'm using the original wiring plus wiring harness? Should I do this or should I completely strip everything out and rewire and run new wires to where I can actually understand how they have been ran plus I'd avoid fires 🔥 🤔! I'm all about TBNATION BUT MAKING IT HAPPEN ON A 16FT PONTOON BOAT! POSITIVE FEEDBACK WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!
Hello, saw this a year ago, watching it again, got a question, does the fuse amp is related to the wire gauge used for a particular connection? and how do I know what amp fuse and wire gauge to use? Thank you
It all depends on how much power the particular accessory draws. If it draws 5 amps you would want to have a wire that could hold more amperage than that accessory needs. I am not 100 percent sure on the fuse I would run a 5 if the accessory draws 5 or less but if that keeps blowing the fuses then go up to a 10. Hope this helps!
Any fused item will say what fuse rating it needs. You will get away with different guage wires on most stuff. I mean, if the guage of wire really mattered as much as you think other than being capable of doing the job then that means any wire in your house is the same, it's coming in on a lot fatter a cable than your circuits are. In my opinion you'd need to try and push the boundaries of wire guage/resistance mismatches for it to become an issue on relatively low current 12/24v stuff
great video. I was able to clearly see what it will take to wire up my boat. other videos have been too long...long worded and very confusing. thank you!!
I just bought a 1978 Procraft 1500 and need to do all wiring!! Is there a manual I can get my hands on or should I just go off my own ??? It looks overwhelming. I hope i can get this on the water one day.
hey man , my name is Stephen, I' m from vegas , thanks for this video , I think its the best one yet about wiring your boat . I'm a fan of your vidoes , keep them up , I just recently got a 17 ft boat . Took out the old motor and looking for a new one. the next step for me would be wiring everything else . Taking out all the wires out to and invest in wires and new lighting .
15 minutes...1,000 questions answered! Thanks Brother! Still...I have Just one though...I see many ads for control boxes...is the BUS always necessary or do some of these have it bult in for a simple 12V Boat system needing only a 4 switch panel? Thanks....
This was a fantastic video! I just bought a Pond Prowler 10, AGM battery and a 40 Endura Max. For the last several weeks I have been watching vids of mods and knew I wanted to plan ahead for things electrical. This makes my planning a whole lot easier.
Rewiring my project Aquasport boat. So basically I should buy the box with ground and power running through it as a fused thing. So if I’m wiring my boat gauges to motor, I should run the positive gauge wire from gauge to the box and have it go from box to engine, and then have the negative ground out in the box. Just making sure I understand. This video helped a lot and made me feel more confident. Thanks
How did you wire up that big in / off switch. I have wanted to put something like that for years in my boat for my main battery to shut off my power for my electronics etc. I have no idea what wires I need and where to install them in the switch.
Does it matter what gauge wire I use for ground and let’s say I’m getting power to a bus bar can I connect my power wire from the fuse box to the bus bar since that provides power already
Do you have any advice on how to make a solenoid connector stay in good shape? For example i got a few older solenoids, the one on now got all green where the connectors are, so say i chop the wires / replace what ever, clean / metal brush the solenoid connector and bolt them on nicely. However since there was corrosion there before, itl corrode quickly again. Do you have any advice how to keep an older connector thats redone from corroding again? Like should i rubber cement that? or how do i just keep it from turning all green again in 6 months. Thanks
Are you not using relays at all? What are those toggle rocker switches rated for current-wise? If I can get away without a relay I'd much rather do that but I've been weary about burning up switches.
I really like those Adhesive Solder Butt connectors. Have you seen them made as a reducer? I want to connect my fuel sender up to my std 16 awg to run to the console. I'm pretty sure the Sender has 18 or smaller wire and given it's going to be under my deck, I want the best connection so I don't have to revisit in the future.
They are cold solder city they barely do more than glue. If you flux your wires they do a better job but they absolutely suck compared to real solders they don't have any tug resistance it's nearly all in the sleeve.
I have two 12v batteries on my boat that are independent (not connected to each other). The 29 group is dedicated to my trolling motor and the 27 group is for two garmin fish finders (93sv and 5cv). The previous boat owner installed a master kill switch and 6 slot fuse box. The fuse box is currently being used for the garmins. The trolling motor is direct to the 29 battery. I want to put the trolling motor on a fuse box as well, but I want to know if I can/should use the same fuse box as the garmins or if I should get a dedicated fuse box for the trolling motor. My confusion about sharing a fuse box for both comes from the fact that the fuse box only has a single positive and negative cable coming off of it that connects to my dedicated 27 group garmin battery. How would I set up the fuse box to connect to two batteries at the same time? Maybe this fuse box can’t support two? If so, I will probably just buy a dedicated trolling motor fuse box from minn Kota directly. Feedback? Thoughts?
Your video was great and made a ton of sense; however, I keep seeing videos saying that I should run a separate wire from each of my depth finders (3), my network hub and GPS heading sensor back to the battery to avoid interference. What do you think? Is this necessary or just go with the fuse block? Maybe a certain type of fuse block is necessary to avoid interference?
@@TinyBoatNation Just to clarify, are you saying that yes, I should run individual wires directly back to the battery from each device? If yes, I'll have a lot of individual wires connecting to my battery, are their devices I can add to the terminals to clean things up and simplify connections?
@@Dlezman_fishing now I'm not an expert but I believe from what iv watched and read that all those wires your talking about can connect to a (bus bar) and that would solve your bunch of wires into just 2 wires. Am I correct @tiny boat nation?
Fish finders are terrible for it you need to isolate the wiring for them a lot of the time because of interference. I've seen countless vids of people moaning about the feedback they are seeing on their screens and they blame bad setup in the settings or they think their transponder is to close to the motor or to high or low. Was the wiring all along.
Hey bud how easy to run all new wire to my 1990 bass nitro iam i able to run something like your wiring hook up to a bigger scale would it work let me know thanks
That was a great video! Glad I found it and watched it! One question please, If i have two trolling motor batteries connected parallel and I hook one of those batteries to a battery charger, will it end up charging both batteries??
I want to put a stereo, USB port, trolling motor, and 2 lights in a “free” boat I recently inherited. Can I safely run all these off of a bus bar? Do I need a fuse block? I’ve never done wiring so I don’t know much about it
I have a question that nobody has been able to answer for me yet or if it is possible. I have a enclosed cargo trailer with several lights inside and out that are hooked up to switches and a battery so it can run lights without truck. The lights on the back of the trailer are hooked up to a switch in trailer but we want to also hook the lights to our reverse wire from truck so they come on when we backup. Do I need a relay or would a 3 way switch work? I figured with truck battery and trailer battery I would get some kind of back feed to me 2 way switch that I have now.
Great video. Invest in a crimper the doesn't risk puncturing the the heat shrink connector. Like a ratchet style crimper designed specifically for those connectors your using in the video.
I’m trying to do this setup with my boat. Using dual gauge wire too 3 gang rocker switches. Connecting the positive from the accessory to the top switch connection (positive) then another connector coming off the middle switch connection (acc) to circuit board with fuse. Then the negative from the accessory to the corresponding negative spot on the circuit board. Circuit board is wired too a battery on/off switch. The lights and accessories works when I just hard wire both wires to the circuit board, just not when I wire them to the switch, I keep blowing fuses left and right. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Any issues with accessories or the blue sea fuse block having a constant draw on your batteries? I know your master switch will turn it off. But does it draw power when off? I had issues with a fuse block in the past, need to figure out the best way of preventing it going forward.
Great video... The only thing that still confuses me is what size of wire should we use? I saw you had 14 Guage marine but is it what you used for the entire system?
@@TinyBoatNation Thank you for the reply, I noticed the red and black wire that feeds bus bar with fuses from battery were bigger, I just didn't know what gauge to use, thanks for your help and the videos.
Can you tell me why you didn't use relays? Why are they not necessary? Most electrical system seem to include relays. Just learning so I want to know when they are or are not necessary. Thankyou.
Nice video !!! I had a question after watching: how do I determine the gauge of the wire going from the fuse block directly to the battery terminal and do I need circuit breaker at the battery terminal end ?
I have a bilge pump with internal float switch that i need to get rid of this and have 2 bilge pumps and a seperate float switch.can you do a video that uses the existing wires from the old pump.
just bought a used boat and plan on doing some additions along with possible complete re-wire, This Video was very helpful. Sure appreciate the time you took. Thank again!! By the way, have any more of those oatmeal cream pies?? YUMMIE!!!
Im a commercial electrician but i have never worked on a before, but if you understand electricity you understand electricity. A friend called me and said she was watching TV on her boat for about an hour then all the power shut off and the individual breakers started reading reverse polarity. this should be impossible considering no work has been done. The main breaker has 120V to ground and is not reversed when i checked. I can see the hot coming off the main output into the input of the other breakers but i ran out of time and didnt check the reading, but im pretty sure its correct. What would be the next thing you would check? Im assuming its a equipment problem somewhere not a wiring problem
Noob here, how do I choose a fuse block? My boat has an old glass tube fuse block. Id like replace it and clean up the wiring from this inherited 1989 Lowe. I see 12-way block positive, 12-way w/neg bus? Recommendations, differences? I already see I need to upgrade wire. my 12v trolling motor i just bought, the pre-wired plug is only 10 gauge for a 15ft run. I think I need 4 guage according to minn kota. I wired the trolling motor directly to a deep-cycle battery with an inline 60Amp breaker.
Can't I just connect ground wires to the body of aluminium boat for example for all gadets? For example if I use switch from batery (-) to the body of boat and then whole boat can work as ground (-), no? And only Positive wires goes trough from battery to switch panel and to the gadets?
hey Michael, Do we need to add a fuse (commonly hearing 30amp) past the battery switch before the fuse box? I keep seeing mixed answers. thanks. Currently adding electronics to my 14' gregor.
No point you are double fusing mate. Electricity doesn't work that way. Even the large fuse prior to the mains switch in your house the fuse is different in how it works its not a conventional fuse, the ones in the consumer unit are breakers and only the ones on the plugs are fuses. This is for a reason.
Awesome vid, thank you! I have a 24v trolling and an electric start outboard, do I need 3 or 4 batteries? Trolling should prob be separate, so 2 there, but can the outboard go on the same battery with all the other boat electronics?
What do u do with all the negative wires on the switch panel.. it's the only thing holding me up from using this blue sea systems fuse block and bus bar combo. Just blows my mind that in the video I don't see any negative wires coming from the switch panel
Michael Lopez Thank you for the quick response. I ask because we got a new sailboat to us last year. After the purchase, we realized that the starter battery was fried. It was a 92AH AGM Intimidator, which I just replaced yesterday with am AGM West Marine with the same specs. It should be noted that our house bank is a 400 AH Gel. We have 200 AH Gel in the lazarette and 2 98 AH Gels behind the engine. I took pictures when I uninstalled the old starter battery and used the pic to guide me installing the new battery. On my way home last night it dawned on me that the old starter battery had a black lead attached to the positive side, which I duplicated with the new battery. It must be wrongly installed, right? Sorry for the long explanation. I have both a battery charger and an Inverter charger. I also have a yellow but that is on the negative side.
Boat lectical base kits: tbnation.net/products/weekend-warrior-electrical-kit
Trolling motor wiring kits: tbnation.net/products/trolling-motor-wiring-kits-tbn-official
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Boat elecrical safety kits: tbnation.net/products/weekend-warrior-safety-kit
I've learned more in the last 13 minutes than I have in my entire life about wiring. I always seem to let it get to me and overcomplicate things. This made it a breeze to understand. Simple actually. Thanks!
bass cercuit daigram
ruclips.net/video/HoaSwsG4IeE/видео.html
Electrical work is an absolute nightmare for me. Thanks for breaking it down as simply as you did on here. I’ll probably end up watching this video a few more times but I have a good idea in my head now.
Very informative, I’m buying an old boat and want to rewire the entire boat as soon as i get it. This video was a huge help!
This is the best, easiest to understand video I’ve ever watched on general boat wiring. You gave me confidence to rewire my boat. (Several gauges don’t work). I’ll check out your store. Thank you'
2qq- yes
Am looking to get a used boat that will definitely become a project. The boat is 33 years old so I am going to redo every system in it to include the electrical wiring, gauges, pumps, convert to LED lighting thru-out and generally whatever it needs. I am medically retired so as long as I am above ground, I will have and make time to work on the boat. Even if I go before the boat sees the water again, I will pass it on to my brother who is a fisherman. It is also therapy. Thanks for providing an easy to use diagram. I am mechanically inclined and have put together 4x4's and a few other things. Wiring seemed to be my weak area, may because of the intimidation factor. But it should go smoothly now. Thanks again.
Small but important point ... follow standard DC wiring code and use RED for the positive and BLACK for the negative.
You can also purchase some flexible plastic conduit that you run all the wires through and makes it much tidier and easier to keep compartments clean. Your video was easy to follow.
Yellow is the international color code for D.C. neg. The boating industry went to this because of boats shipped overseas where in many countries black is used for both D.C. & A.C. electric positive/line in .
On ships we have wire bundles, no conduit....easier to fault find.
Just inherited a 1978 sea nymph fishing machine and need to figure out the trim tilt wiring , now I want to rewire the whole thing and add more lights. Your came out super clean good work
Good luck!
Great video. I didn't even know there was a difference in the wire. I just got my first boat I'm a 44 year old car guy and planned on doing my boat like a car. Thanks for teaching me and saving me some future headaches.
If you run either of the cable types through conduit then they will likely last the same amount of time and you should be tinning your own wire ends and fluxing up before hearing solder. Rosin core solder still gets cold solders if you don't use flux. Heating "low temp" solder is not in any way ideal and I'm suprised he went for that since he was clued up about the wire guage.
Holy smokes....i think our son and i can actually rewire (or at least clean things up a bit) on our boat now. THANK U VERY VERY MUCH!!!!
My wife is a diy person and we just got a boat. This video will help us rewire the whole boat
great video! i have one question--the switch board i bought has 1 end on the back that’s open. so if i run the bilge pump wire into the back of the switches only open pin, how do i run that pin into my fuse box? do i just piggy back the wires at the pin?
So the wire runs from the fuse box to the switch and then to whatever I am running. The ground wire only goes to the negative of the fuse box from whatever I am running.
The battery wires both go to the fuse box. I should use a shut off switch so I can stop the current to the fuse box.
Is this correct? If so I've got it.
What about fish finders? Can they go through the fuse box with everything else and to a switch to turn it on? I know the wires are quite small that run the fish finders.
I'm re-wiring a Deep V row boat my buddy gave me. I'm going to be building a deck system similar to a bass boat and want to re-due his wiring. The old wiring wasn't any good and everything was corroded, rusted, and rotted away. He had minimal stuff.
Thanks
Thank you very much for video but could you explain how you connected all nav lights together to go into one switch?
Yes I agree
Piggy back them or buy a 3 way connector.
Finally a decent video that is easy to understand, thanks mate
Nice craftmanship on your boat and excellent video using the animation. Thank you.
Excellent video! This will really help me planning and executing the installation in my sailboat which I'm restoring. This video saves me a lot of thinking! Many thanks!
Redoing a sailboat is out of my element. Good luck!
These videos are great. Again. Saving people money. By people i mean me .
Michael Lopez. Great videos. Just wanted to tell you about my boat build. Its a 16' john boat side console. I put in rear deck with gas and battery compartment behind two seats and a bait well. The bait well is led lit with two pumps. If im fishing skinny water i can use one pump to recirculate the filled bait well or if im fishing deeper water i can run mu fill pump and switch my recirculate pump to discharge for continuous fresh exchange. I have another casting deck up front that covers my 24vdc battery system for my trolling motor with storage for life vest and such.. For lights im running led NAV, Anchor, Green underwater lights, green bait well light, and 2x 2k lux spot lights up front. The boat is powered by a 40hp outboard with dedicated battery and bilge pump. I originally this project 3 years ago. I only got to use it a hand full of times befoe i was forced to park it. The trailer colapsed during a hurricane and my wife fell ill needing a few surgeries. ( she is very well now). Im excited to say that im almost finished getting the boat back together. With a new to me trailer and fixing some problems with the motor i just took her out for a test run last weekend. She runs great. Cant wait to go fishing. Im so proud of the boat and all the work i put into it. I learned so much from the TBN community and others like it. Thanks for doing these videos. Keep up the great work.
Let me know if i can send you a pic of the boat.
Been looking for a long time for a video that would explain it to a slow guy like me! :) Thanks!
No problem!
Trying to get all the stuff connected directly to my cranking battery on the boat to a board. I order the Blue Sea 5025 St Blade Fuse Block W/Cover - 6 Circuit W/Negative Bus. I got a different one that only has positive. Not sure how your supposed to connect only the positive side of all your accessories so I'm returning that one. I ordered this other Blue Sea fuse block. Hopefully that will work. Our boat has hardly any room in the area where the battery is at. Have to route all the wires positive and negative to the Blue Sea Block. Every time I have to remove the battery it is a total nightmare to get all the wires back on the battery when I put it back in. Have had several times missed a wire that falls to the back and have even had to remove the battery to find the missing wire. So I am looking at installing the Blue Sea 5025 St Blade Fuse Block W/Cover - 6 Circuit W/Negative Bus when I get it. Not sure I even have anywhere to put a on / Off switch at the battery where I would hook onto the battery for the Blue Sea blade.
Stupid question - how does all this tie into the motor? I only want to use one battery.
You need to slide to heat shrink butt connector down the wire then fray both ends of wire and twist them together then pull your butt connector over them and heat makes the pull strength a 10x's stronger but great videos man very inspiring 👍
Great video! minor correction: Electrons flow from the negative side of the battery to the positive. Thanks for sharing!
Hey Bro, thanks for video. Just bought a 1982 Cajun bass boat that needs to be completely re-wired. Can’t find boat electrical diagrams or manuals. So, my question to you is, how to set it up for re-wire, and what supplies to bye? Help. AJ, thx
Excellent video! Does anyone can help me to find out what size of fuse should I install to protect the possitive instalation of my boat? I have a 4 stroke Honda BF150HP ?
thanks!!!
The question I have is I have a 1991 bass buggy 16ft pontoon boat.
I've completely restored this pontoon boat but I'm using the original wiring plus wiring harness?
Should I do this or should I completely strip everything out and rewire and run new wires to where I can actually understand how they have been ran plus I'd avoid fires 🔥 🤔!
I'm all about TBNATION BUT MAKING IT HAPPEN ON A 16FT PONTOON BOAT!
POSITIVE FEEDBACK WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!
Hello, saw this a year ago, watching it again, got a question, does the fuse amp is related to the wire gauge used for a particular connection? and how do I know what amp fuse and wire gauge to use? Thank you
It all depends on how much power the particular accessory draws. If it draws 5 amps you would want to have a wire that could hold more amperage than that accessory needs. I am not 100 percent sure on the fuse I would run a 5 if the accessory draws 5 or less but if that keeps blowing the fuses then go up to a 10. Hope this helps!
Any fused item will say what fuse rating it needs. You will get away with different guage wires on most stuff. I mean, if the guage of wire really mattered as much as you think other than being capable of doing the job then that means any wire in your house is the same, it's coming in on a lot fatter a cable than your circuits are. In my opinion you'd need to try and push the boundaries of wire guage/resistance mismatches for it to become an issue on relatively low current 12/24v stuff
Super simple and helpful! What kind of loom do you use and how did you finish the loom ends on your pump wiring and hoses? Looks nice and finished!
Do you ever use a regulator/rectifier from the outboard to charge batteries while the motors running
great video. I was able to clearly see what it will take to wire up my boat. other videos have been too long...long worded and very confusing. thank you!!
Is it easier to connect all the wires to the fuse box and switch panel and mount them , especially the fuse box, later?
I just bought a 1978 Procraft 1500 and need to do all wiring!! Is there a manual I can get my hands on or should I just go off my own ??? It looks overwhelming. I hope i can get this on the water one day.
Would you recommend those oatmeal cream pies for an overall better experience on the water?
hey man , my name is Stephen, I' m from vegas , thanks for this video , I think its the best one yet about wiring your boat . I'm a fan of your vidoes , keep them up , I just recently got a 17 ft boat . Took out the old motor and looking for a new one. the next step for me would be wiring everything else . Taking out all the wires out to and invest in wires and new lighting .
15 minutes...1,000 questions answered! Thanks Brother! Still...I have Just one though...I see many ads for control boxes...is the BUS always necessary or do some of these have it bult in for a simple 12V Boat system needing only a 4 switch panel? Thanks....
You can direct wire in line fuse Wells to them if you want to bypass the bus bar fuse block. The bus bar/fuse block is just a lot easier
This was a fantastic video! I just bought a Pond Prowler 10, AGM battery and a 40 Endura Max. For the last several weeks I have been watching vids of mods and knew I wanted to plan ahead for things electrical. This makes my planning a whole lot easier.
Rewiring my project Aquasport boat. So basically I should buy the box with ground and power running through it as a fused thing. So if I’m wiring my boat gauges to motor, I should run the positive gauge wire from gauge to the box and have it go from box to engine, and then have the negative ground out in the box. Just making sure I understand. This video helped a lot and made me feel more confident. Thanks
Or just buy a proper switch panel mate.
Hi Ryan, Thanks so much. Again, Quick question, what gage wire should I use for my lights, bilge and horn
14awg
How did you wire up that big in / off switch. I have wanted to put something like that for years in my boat for my main battery to shut off my power for my electronics etc. I have no idea what wires I need and where to install them in the switch.
So there’s three prongs on the back of the switch 2 of the prongs are used by 1 ___ gauge wire what dose the third prong do?
Does it matter what gauge wire I use for ground and let’s say I’m getting power to a bus bar can I connect my power wire from the fuse box to the bus bar since that provides power already
Just picked up a 16' x 6' wide flat bottom I'm excited for your videos and to get started on my project
Thanks but what about self starting of engine or is it hand cranked? What about battery charging circuit and self starting of engine?
So two batteries for your trolling motors, one for accessories. So do you have a third dedicated just to the motor and starting?
Should front nav and back nav be wired separately or together?
@@TinyBoatNation thanks my man! and thanks for all the tips in all your videos, they really help out
Do you have any advice on how to make a solenoid connector stay in good shape? For example i got a few older solenoids, the one on now got all green where the connectors are, so say i chop the wires / replace what ever, clean / metal brush the solenoid connector and bolt them on nicely. However since there was corrosion there before, itl corrode quickly again. Do you have any advice how to keep an older connector thats redone from corroding again? Like should i rubber cement that? or how do i just keep it from turning all green again in 6 months. Thanks
On a 14 bass tracker would the bus bar be behind the dash
Bought the low temp solder connectors off your Amazon store and they are awesome. So much better than standard butt connectors. Thank you!!
How would i run multiple leds to one switch. What connectors would I use to complete the loop
great video!
they also make liquid electrical tape for sealing terminal ends.
Loved your video. I need help with powering two depth finders with one 12 volt battery without interference, Thanks
Are you not using relays at all? What are those toggle rocker switches rated for current-wise? If I can get away without a relay I'd much rather do that but I've been weary about burning up switches.
How do I split the positive wire from the battery into 6 or 8 wires (1 to each of the fuses) on the panel? Is there some kind of splitter to buy?
Hi TBN. Im wondering if he wired the trolling motor to the switch panel as well? And did he have to also use a circuit breaker
The trolling motor is separate from everything - on its own battery(ies), breaker, etc.
What size wire did you use to feed your fusepanel bus bar?
I really like those Adhesive Solder Butt connectors. Have you seen them made as a reducer? I want to connect my fuel sender up to my std 16 awg to run to the console. I'm pretty sure the Sender has 18 or smaller wire and given it's going to be under my deck, I want the best connection so I don't have to revisit in the future.
They are cold solder city they barely do more than glue. If you flux your wires they do a better job but they absolutely suck compared to real solders they don't have any tug resistance it's nearly all in the sleeve.
I have two 12v batteries on my boat that are independent (not connected to each other). The 29 group is dedicated to my trolling motor and the 27 group is for two garmin fish finders (93sv and 5cv). The previous boat owner installed a master kill switch and 6 slot fuse box. The fuse box is currently being used for the garmins. The trolling motor is direct to the 29 battery. I want to put the trolling motor on a fuse box as well, but I want to know if I can/should use the same fuse box as the garmins or if I should get a dedicated fuse box for the trolling motor. My confusion about sharing a fuse box for both comes from the fact that the fuse box only has a single positive and negative cable coming off of it that connects to my dedicated 27 group garmin battery. How would I set up the fuse box to connect to two batteries at the same time? Maybe this fuse box can’t support two? If so, I will probably just buy a dedicated trolling motor fuse box from minn Kota directly. Feedback? Thoughts?
Your video was great and made a ton of sense; however, I keep seeing videos saying that I should run a separate wire from each of my depth finders (3), my network hub and GPS heading sensor back to the battery to avoid interference. What do you think? Is this necessary or just go with the fuse block? Maybe a certain type of fuse block is necessary to avoid interference?
@@TinyBoatNation Just to clarify, are you saying that yes, I should run individual wires directly back to the battery from each device? If yes, I'll have a lot of individual wires connecting to my battery, are their devices I can add to the terminals to clean things up and simplify connections?
@@Dlezman_fishing now I'm not an expert but I believe from what iv watched and read that all those wires your talking about can connect to a (bus bar) and that would solve your bunch of wires into just 2 wires. Am I correct @tiny boat nation?
Fish finders are terrible for it you need to isolate the wiring for them a lot of the time because of interference. I've seen countless vids of people moaning about the feedback they are seeing on their screens and they blame bad setup in the settings or they think their transponder is to close to the motor or to high or low. Was the wiring all along.
How many batteries total in your boat and what do they go to? Also, do you use ACRs (automatic charging relays)?
Hey bud how easy to run all new wire to my 1990 bass nitro
iam i able to run something like your wiring hook up to a bigger scale would it work let me know thanks
That was a great video! Glad I found it and watched it! One question please, If i have two trolling motor batteries connected parallel and I hook one of those batteries to a battery charger, will it end up charging both batteries??
I'm not sure. It makes sense.
From my experience with batteries it will charge all that are connected in parallel.
@@TheDlambert Thanks!
I want to put a stereo, USB port, trolling motor, and 2 lights in a “free” boat I recently inherited. Can I safely run all these off of a bus bar? Do I need a fuse block? I’ve never done wiring so I don’t know much about it
I have a question that nobody has been able to answer for me yet or if it is possible. I have a enclosed cargo trailer with several lights inside and out that are hooked up to switches and a battery so it can run lights without truck. The lights on the back of the trailer are hooked up to a switch in trailer but we want to also hook the lights to our reverse wire from truck so they come on when we backup. Do I need a relay or would a 3 way switch work? I figured with truck battery and trailer battery I would get some kind of back feed to me 2 way switch that I have now.
When running from the switch to the distribution block do you keep all the positive wires same length or does it not matter?
I tried to keep all wires the minimum length you can make them. It helps with overheating.
Great video. Invest in a crimper the doesn't risk puncturing the the heat shrink connector. Like a ratchet style crimper designed specifically for those connectors your using in the video.
I’m trying to do this setup with my boat. Using dual gauge wire too 3 gang rocker switches. Connecting the positive from the accessory to the top switch connection (positive) then another connector coming off the middle switch connection (acc) to circuit board with fuse. Then the negative from the accessory to the corresponding negative spot on the circuit board. Circuit board is wired too a battery on/off switch. The lights and accessories works when I just hard wire both wires to the circuit board, just not when I wire them to the switch, I keep blowing fuses left and right. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Great video! This products are salt water resistant ?
I think they are the only thing that can be used in salt water. Heatshrink butter connectors are the only thing permitted.
I'm new to your channel
And I learned a lot from this video
Thank you
Nice video. What tool did you use for your diagramming ?
Excellent video! you have officially "completed the circuit" of my electrical thinking process.
Where should you run the ground from each switch to? Trying to put together a wiring diagram of my own and that's where I'm stuck
Thats what I assumed. Thanks so much!
Any issues with accessories or the blue sea fuse block having a constant draw on your batteries? I know your master switch will turn it off. But does it draw power when off?
I had issues with a fuse block in the past, need to figure out the best way of preventing it going forward.
Great video... The only thing that still confuses me is what size of wire should we use? I saw you had 14 Guage marine but is it what you used for the entire system?
Does it matter if the fuse is between the power and switch or between the switch and the load ?
This is exactly what I needed.
Hello, Can you make a video on re-wiring an analog instrument panel/gauges??? Thanks
Thanks foe the info,,my boat is 17ft long and have no power to bus bar,,will 8 gauge be safe to rewire it, about 25ft of wire,
@@TinyBoatNation Thank you for the reply, I noticed the red and black wire that feeds bus bar with fuses from battery were bigger, I just didn't know what gauge to use, thanks for your help and the videos.
Can you tell me why you didn't use relays? Why are they not necessary? Most electrical system seem to include relays. Just learning so I want to know when they are or are not necessary. Thankyou.
Nice video !!! I had a question after watching: how do I determine the gauge of the wire going from the fuse block directly to the battery terminal and do I need circuit breaker at the battery terminal end ?
I have a bilge pump with internal float switch that i need to get rid of this and have 2 bilge pumps and a seperate float switch.can you do a video that uses the existing wires from the old pump.
Exactly what I need. Thanks for taking the time to make and publish the video. Take care
just bought a used boat and plan on doing some additions along with possible complete re-wire, This Video was very helpful. Sure appreciate the time you took. Thank again!! By the way, have any more of those oatmeal cream pies?? YUMMIE!!!
very professional electrical work
Im a commercial electrician but i have never worked on a before, but if you understand electricity you understand electricity. A friend called me and said she was watching TV on her boat for about an hour then all the power shut off and the individual breakers started reading reverse polarity. this should be impossible considering no work has been done. The main breaker has 120V to ground and is not reversed when i checked. I can see the hot coming off the main output into the input of the other breakers but i ran out of time and didnt check the reading, but im pretty sure its correct. What would be the next thing you would check? Im assuming its a equipment problem somewhere not a wiring problem
Noob here, how do I choose a fuse block? My boat has an old glass tube fuse block. Id like replace it and clean up the wiring from this inherited 1989 Lowe. I see 12-way block positive, 12-way w/neg bus? Recommendations, differences? I already see I need to upgrade wire. my 12v trolling motor i just bought, the pre-wired plug is only 10 gauge for a 15ft run. I think I need 4 guage according to minn kota. I wired the trolling motor directly to a deep-cycle battery with an inline 60Amp breaker.
Can't I just connect ground wires to the body of aluminium boat for example for all gadets? For example if I use switch from batery (-) to the body of boat and then whole boat can work as ground (-), no? And only Positive wires goes trough from battery to switch panel and to the gadets?
Hi if i connect the 12 circuit fuse box do i still need a bus bar?
hey Michael, Do we need to add a fuse (commonly hearing 30amp) past the battery switch before the fuse box? I keep seeing mixed answers. thanks. Currently adding electronics to my 14' gregor.
No point you are double fusing mate. Electricity doesn't work that way. Even the large fuse prior to the mains switch in your house the fuse is different in how it works its not a conventional fuse, the ones in the consumer unit are breakers and only the ones on the plugs are fuses. This is for a reason.
What about your galvanic bonding system? I dont see one in there
What guage wire would you recommend for the new super fish finders and panoptix box
10awg
I’m rewording my 78 Orion inboard, how do I hook-up my gauges without connecting them to ignition awitch
Awesome vid, thank you! I have a 24v trolling and an electric start outboard, do I need 3 or 4 batteries? Trolling should prob be separate, so 2 there, but can the outboard go on the same battery with all the other boat electronics?
Hi, how do you isolate your cranking battery with the others? How does the isolator handle charging on your batteries? Thanks
You don’t have a power bank where u plug in extension cord to charge everything ?
What do u do with all the negative wires on the switch panel.. it's the only thing holding me up from using this blue sea systems fuse block and bus bar combo. Just blows my mind that in the video I don't see any negative wires coming from the switch panel
They are it's just Piggy backed to one wire
What size gas can do you use for 14’ vhull?
Question, do all black cables go to negative and all the red to positive? Also, how about yellow?
Michael Lopez Thank you for the quick response. I ask because we got a new sailboat to us last year. After the purchase, we realized that the starter battery was fried. It was a 92AH AGM Intimidator, which I just replaced yesterday with am AGM West Marine with the same specs. It should be noted that our house bank is a 400 AH Gel. We have 200 AH Gel in the lazarette and 2 98 AH Gels behind the engine. I took pictures when I uninstalled the old starter battery and used the pic to guide me installing the new battery. On my way home last night it dawned on me that the old starter battery had a black lead attached to the positive side, which I duplicated with the new battery. It must be wrongly installed, right? Sorry for the long explanation. I have both a battery charger and an Inverter charger. I also have a yellow but that is on the negative side.
Excellent video. Highly detailed yet straightforward. Keep up the work!
Now that's the best Video going by far, thank God 🤦😂
Somewhere out there in the ether there is hope