on the klein crimper the nippled part you used is for non insulated connectors if you look it should be labeled on the crimper NON, that is the reason it breaks thru the insulation. right under that there is a second slot labeled INS without that nipple which would be the correct slot to crimp that connector. hope this helps!
Finally i found a channel and a video that explains and shows u the correct way on doing such project. Thanks for the content. And much love to ya from Maryland❤❤❤.
Can you clarify why you did two fuse blocks? You mentioned one is connected to the main red on/off battery switch but the other isn't? What things are on one vs the other?
One is for all of the accessories from the switches, so each circuit is protected. The other is fused power to unswitched devices like jack plate, power pole, etc. which also has ground lugs- hold that helps
@@JackedUpFishing Just to clarify, all circuits are fuse protected, it's just that you kept one fuse block for unswitched devices and another for switched devices? I'm assuming if I didn't have as many devices (some switched, others unswitched) then I can just use a single fuse block? Just wondering if I should be getting two smaller fuse blocks and keeping switched/unswitched devices separated vs just gone one bigger fuse block!
I have those exact strippers made by Irwin I think? Absolutely love them. Buying a decent ratcheting crimp tool with replaceable dies is worth it if you do more than a couple of these types of adventures. I wish I could d get that pvc board as easily near me in Canada - also makes great transducer mount on transom. Thanks for sharing!
Yeah that pvc board is great stuff. Surprised you can’t get it up there. Yeah I have a few different type of crimp tools. I also have a hydraulic crimp tool which is really awesome. Thanks for watching!
Wish you would have shown the Yamaha multi command wiring job. I'm rewiring my Yamaha gauges. Just bought the boat. Tach works. The Speedo gauge I have a light.... That's it. My fuel tank has a pink coming up to the console. Too bad you're not in MLPS, MN. you do excellent work!
If the item you're trying to power doesn't exceed 12v, yes. They probably put in 18v switches because that's all they had. Heck, technically you could use 110v switches, the voltages/amps listed is always the maximum voltage/amps safe for the device.
How do you snake a wire from the console to the transom? I have to replace a ground wire and it looks very tight from where the wires come. out of? If I were to pull the old wire out what should I use to attach to the old wire so I can pull the new wire through?
The cellular structure of the PVC board can be a little tricky for holding screws, if you put your screws in then back them out and put a little epoxy in the screw holes it will harden up the threads and prevent them from pulling out.
How has those switches held up? I am re doing my console now, and bought a bunch of those, but am worried about the quality. Boca are all electronic, and entirely too expensive.
Ok I’m rewiring my boat dual battery with cut off switch an auto charge relay fuse block with a negative part like yours, can u explain the extra bus bar to me I did buy a positive and negative bus bar but I don’t know why I would need it
I have one main bus bar for the big items like power poles, Jack plate , and amplifiers etc. then I have a fused block for between all of my switches and the respective components. This way I don’t have to run them breaker buttons tgat always go bad.
I built this boat in 2012 from ground up. Yes batteries are supposed to be there. Keeping the batteries out of the bills area is one of the best things you can do on a boat if you have the room. It keeps everything in a centralized location switch is battery on off switches and keeps your bills area clean as well.
@@JackedUpFishing let me know when I’m to much cause I need some help I have a center console StarCraft 1989 aluminum it has battery compartments in the back if I could send a picture I would but RUclips doesn’t work that way so I’m trying to rewire the whole boat kinda like your doing so why use negative and positive bus bar if the fuse block has that on it? And how do you wire something like that cause I want to add a cut off switch for 2 batteries as well as an ACR and battery charger what I found out about the cut off switch that no one mentioned on RUclips is that anyone doesn’t work and can mess your motor up. The kind that you should get is one that has a surge protector that keeps from blowing up your alternator from switching between batteries or turning it off. It’s late I’m still at work I apologize for no punctuation
I know this is somewhat an older video, but you shouldn't use tie-raps if you want something with easy maintenance but also neat looking. You should use those velcro straps instead, does the same thing, but can be easily unsnapped to re-rig something and whatnot, instead of cutting 20 tie-raps lol. Out of curiosity, what is the beam width of your boat and the console's width? Also, is it easy to move around it on the water? I'm asking because I am thinking of buying a brand new 16 feet aluminum boat and add in a center console on it, but I wonder if it might be too large for the boat... so that would give me a good idea if it could work for mine or not.
I have actually looked at using the Velcro straps, but honestly you can not route things the same and do a tight job with them. They also get funky after 1 season. But if you like them then that's awesome. More than one way to get the job done. My boat is a 21 Shoalwater cat. Texas made boat with a beam of around 9ft. Console is 30 wide and its so easy to get around. Never selling this boat. Love it
@@JackedUpFishing Holy hell! That is a wide girl you got there ! I'm looking at buying a Marlon SWV16, it would be a 16' long x 71" beam. Gives me a pretty good idea of size difference, and what I need to look for. Most likely a 24" wide console or so, to have 24" on both sides. Thanks for the quick reply!
Be careful with using too much dielectric grease, It's actually an insolator so it won't allow for the free low of electricity. Equipment that's sensitive to voltage drops may have issues.
I don't see you using labels on anything, do you write a diagram to keep on shore? Or is it clear enough from your wiring behind the panel? I bought a used boat and with everything zip tied together (and in hard to reach places) it's a pain in the butt to chase things down. Also seems like there's 4x as many wires as there should be but that's another story...
@@JackedUpFishing Ah, I mean MY BOAT has a lot of seemingly extra wires, not yours. If mine was loaded down like yours, mine would make a lot more sense but it's pretty straightforward nav/anchor lights, bilge, VHF, a few extras. Fuse block labels make sense. My trouble is few of the wires are "home runs" as you called it, tons of splices everywhere. Trying to incrementally rip stuff out and replace with fresh wiring and terminals. Thanks for the great video and examples.
Labels on every wire is the only way to completely organize the electrical system. What you really want to know when you are holding a wire in your hand is where does it go or come from? Right next to the terminal, a short label naming the location of THE OTHER END OF THE WIRE. It will enable quicker trouble shooting and even allow full tracing of wires without probing.
here you go! And I put it in the description as well. www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKY892P?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_000CNV50A2X063S052JZ&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_000CNV50A2X063S052JZ&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_000CNV50A2X063S052JZ&starsLeft=1&skipTwisterOG=1
This was a how to giving you tips and tricks on wiring. I went through items like using the correct crimp tool, what do you need to do as far as wire, routing and correct use placement. So I think it was an instructional video more than anything.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
on the klein crimper the nippled part you used is for non insulated connectors if you look it should be labeled on the crimper NON, that is the reason it breaks thru the insulation. right under that there is a second slot labeled INS without that nipple which would be the correct slot to crimp that connector. hope this helps!
Yeah but the Kleins do not crimp good enough on the heat shrink connectors at least I don’t feel they do. The ratcheting style do way better.
Cool video I learned a lot,, a real fisherman,, doing your own work,, and fishing knowledge
Appreciate it! Came out really clean! Still having motor issues but sorting it out now
And he needs to me a artist in a way
That's what I'm talking about. Great job!
Thank you!
With the crimpers, theres an insulated and non insulated crimpers. The klein has both. Use the one behind the one you used.
Yeah as long as it doesn’t break the heat shrink
@@JackedUpFishing It doesn't, I do hundreds of connectors a week with them.
@@GrOveN2890 can you put up a link to these ones you swear by? I don't mind have a few good ones around. 👍
Finally i found a channel and a video that explains and shows u the correct way on doing such project. Thanks for the content. And much love to ya from Maryland❤❤❤.
Awesome glad you liked it! If you have any questions come back! Good luck!!
That’s awesome man. Nicest work I’ve seen on a flats boat. I have a hewes Redfisher and would love to have this done . Hughhh it’s sexy work
Thanks for watching and appreciate the compliment. A lot of work but I love the way it came out
Good job living the dream. Cool shop, too!
Thanks!
What size wire did you use to run power back to the motor?
2/O wire
Looks good Bill. Been doing the same thing to my old cuddy cabin.
Thanks man! Now is the time with weather and all. Good luck!
Nice set up for your demonstration!
Thanks!
Can you clarify why you did two fuse blocks? You mentioned one is connected to the main red on/off battery switch but the other isn't? What things are on one vs the other?
One is for all of the accessories from the switches, so each circuit is protected. The other is fused power to unswitched devices like jack plate, power pole, etc. which also has ground lugs- hold that helps
@@JackedUpFishing Just to clarify, all circuits are fuse protected, it's just that you kept one fuse block for unswitched devices and another for switched devices? I'm assuming if I didn't have as many devices (some switched, others unswitched) then I can just use a single fuse block? Just wondering if I should be getting two smaller fuse blocks and keeping switched/unswitched devices separated vs just gone one bigger fuse block!
Any review on those switches? I’m about to do mine and was curious how they hold up. Easy fix if they burn out, but still curious. Thanks.
Yeah they have been flawless. Haven’t even thought about them lol
I have those exact strippers made by Irwin I think? Absolutely love them. Buying a decent ratcheting crimp tool with replaceable dies is worth it if you do more than a couple of these types of adventures. I wish I could d get that pvc board as easily near me in Canada - also makes great transducer mount on transom. Thanks for sharing!
Yeah that pvc board is great stuff. Surprised you can’t get it up there. Yeah I have a few different type of crimp tools. I also have a hydraulic crimp tool which is really awesome. Thanks for watching!
@@JackedUpFishing been meaning to get a hyd one for battery cables/welding lugs - tried one before but it was very slow.
Nice work, thanks for posting.
Thank you!
Wish you would have shown the Yamaha multi command wiring job.
I'm rewiring my Yamaha gauges. Just bought the boat. Tach works. The Speedo gauge I have a light.... That's it.
My fuel tank has a pink coming up to the console. Too bad you're not in MLPS, MN. you do excellent work!
Yeah. That’s the motor rigging. I was focusing on the console wiring. Appreciate the compliment. Everything still working flawlessly
Great information, im replacing my switches but the old switches show 18v can i use your push switches you're using?
Not sure honestly
If the item you're trying to power doesn't exceed 12v, yes. They probably put in 18v switches because that's all they had. Heck, technically you could use 110v switches, the voltages/amps listed is always the maximum voltage/amps safe for the device.
How do you snake a wire from the console to the transom? I have to replace a ground wire and it looks very tight from where the wires come. out of? If I were to pull the old wire out what should I use to attach to the old wire so I can pull the new wire through?
They sell a wire fish tool at harbor freight. It’s a game changer. Fiberglass fish rods go check it out!
What exactly do you have installed in your console ? Looks good
Thanks. That console it packed with chartplotter, glove box, gauges,switches etc. it’s the main area in my boat.
Who made that acrylic dash panel? Crazy how they matched the curve of the console.
I made it! I have a video on how to make the bends and all.
Great! I just watched that one. Nice work. Where did you get that acrylic panel?
@@rayfoshup8046 eBay
The cellular structure of the PVC board can be a little tricky for holding screws, if you put your screws in then back them out and put a little epoxy in the screw holes it will harden up the threads and prevent them from pulling out.
Great tip. Thx 🙏
What kind of wire did you use for this? Just basic thhn copper wire?
No I ordered almost marine tinned wire sold at my local boat supply
Could you tell me how you glued the seat base?
Seat base?
Can you post link for the switches? Thanks
APIELE 10 Amp 22mm Latching Push... www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKY892P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Did you need to use a relay with any of those switches?
No sir! I have each circuit fused
How has those switches held up? I am re doing my console now, and bought a bunch of those, but am worried about the quality. Boca are all electronic, and entirely too expensive.
They have held up great. No issues. I agree can’t spend that much on switches!
@@JackedUpFishing Thank you sir. The panel just came off the CNC this morning, I’ll be wiring it up most of the day 👍👍
@@Gmtailsweet!
@@Gmtail sweet!
What’s the black sheet material you used to cover the dash?
It’s acrylic sheet I ordered from eBay
Ok I’m rewiring my boat dual battery with cut off switch an auto charge relay fuse block with a negative part like yours, can u explain the extra bus bar to me I did buy a positive and negative bus bar but I don’t know why I would need it
I have one main bus bar for the big items like power poles, Jack plate , and amplifiers etc. then I have a fused block for between all of my switches and the respective components. This way I don’t have to run them breaker buttons tgat always go bad.
Do you live near Florida and do you are you doing boat rewiring for customers?
I live in Ponce Inlet, Florida. But I do not do boat work for a living. Just my own, that’s hard work lol
@JackedUpFishing yea I had an issue today with my bass boat old ranger panel I thinks going out not sure 🤔 the wiring looks like a nightmare lol
@@kevinflabouyfishing5739 yeah I see that a lot
so did you move the batteries from the back to the front under the console or thats the way its suppose to go?
I built this boat in 2012 from ground up. Yes batteries are supposed to be there. Keeping the batteries out of the bills area is one of the best things you can do on a boat if you have the room. It keeps everything in a centralized location switch is battery on off switches and keeps your bills area clean as well.
@@JackedUpFishing let me know when I’m to much cause I need some help I have a center console StarCraft 1989 aluminum it has battery compartments in the back if I could send a picture I would but RUclips doesn’t work that way so I’m trying to rewire the whole boat kinda like your doing so why use negative and positive bus bar if the fuse block has that on it? And how do you wire something like that cause I want to add a cut off switch for 2 batteries as well as an ACR and battery charger what I found out about the cut off switch that no one mentioned on RUclips is that anyone doesn’t work and can mess your motor up. The kind that you should get is one that has a surge protector that keeps from blowing up your alternator from switching between batteries or turning it off. It’s late I’m still at work I apologize for no punctuation
What gauge wire did you use to wire the battery switch?
Pretty sure I used 2/0 wire
I love the design of your console. please share its dimensions
Thanks 🙏
where did you buy that center console
I'm got it from shoalwater when I bought the hull
Where did you get the hatch for the console??
I had it made custom from boat warehouse online
@@JackedUpFishing Contact info for the company that made the Hatch?
@@JMG007US boatwarehouse.com I think
you should spray some crc corruption inhibitor on that fuse panel and bus bar before everything turns green
Already did!
Great job. Thanks for all the great advice.
Awesome glad it could help! Thanks for watching!
I know this is somewhat an older video, but you shouldn't use tie-raps if you want something with easy maintenance but also neat looking. You should use those velcro straps instead, does the same thing, but can be easily unsnapped to re-rig something and whatnot, instead of cutting 20 tie-raps lol.
Out of curiosity, what is the beam width of your boat and the console's width? Also, is it easy to move around it on the water? I'm asking because I am thinking of buying a brand new 16 feet aluminum boat and add in a center console on it, but I wonder if it might be too large for the boat... so that would give me a good idea if it could work for mine or not.
I have actually looked at using the Velcro straps, but honestly you can not route things the same and do a tight job with them. They also get funky after 1 season. But if you like them then that's awesome. More than one way to get the job done. My boat is a 21 Shoalwater cat. Texas made boat with a beam of around 9ft. Console is 30 wide and its so easy to get around. Never selling this boat. Love it
@@JackedUpFishing Holy hell! That is a wide girl you got there ! I'm looking at buying a Marlon SWV16, it would be a 16' long x 71" beam. Gives me a pretty good idea of size difference, and what I need to look for. Most likely a 24" wide console or so, to have 24" on both sides. Thanks for the quick reply!
I can’t find that pvc board in Houston
Try eBay
Who is this guy? Nice work!
Thanks
Dude, super job, total pro install....
Thanks man! Ready to fish and stop working on the stuff lol
Good job sir
Thank you!!!
Be careful with using too much dielectric grease, It's actually an insolator so it won't allow for the free low of electricity. Equipment that's sensitive to voltage drops may have issues.
Yeah for sure.
Not a real problem if used sparingly
Welcome back brother
Thanks bro! Time for the new season! Lets GOOOO!
Very nice work. I’d love to do the same to mine but everything works and looks decent as it is for now.
@@dannyv2335 thanks yeah it was time for me for sure
A masterpiece, well done 👏
Thank you 🙏! Thanks for watching!
Looks awesome, nice work!
Thanks buddy! Shrimp starting to move in Oak Hill
@@JackedUpFishing I was wondering if they were up your way, they have been getting them for weeks in tville, I havent tried yet
Stupid question - how does all this tie into the motor? I only want to use one battery.
This is the all of the main essentials for my boat. Every boat is different for the way you want to rig it
I don't see you using labels on anything, do you write a diagram to keep on shore? Or is it clear enough from your wiring behind the panel? I bought a used boat and with everything zip tied together (and in hard to reach places) it's a pain in the butt to chase things down. Also seems like there's 4x as many wires as there should be but that's another story...
Yeah I have labels now on from of fuse block. I actually have a lot of stuff in this boat hence all of the wires
@@JackedUpFishing Ah, I mean MY BOAT has a lot of seemingly extra wires, not yours. If mine was loaded down like yours, mine would make a lot more sense but it's pretty straightforward nav/anchor lights, bilge, VHF, a few extras. Fuse block labels make sense. My trouble is few of the wires are "home runs" as you called it, tons of splices everywhere. Trying to incrementally rip stuff out and replace with fresh wiring and terminals. Thanks for the great video and examples.
@@rasliche 10-4 gotcha on that yeah get rid of unnecessary splices they will only cause problems for sure
Labels on every wire is the only way to completely organize the electrical system. What you really want to know when you are holding a wire in your hand is where does it go or come from? Right next to the terminal, a short label naming the location of THE OTHER END OF THE WIRE. It will enable quicker trouble shooting and even allow full tracing of wires without probing.
@@chiphill4856 yep I wrote on mine but would love to have the printer for the year shrink for sure
Link for the switches
here you go! And I put it in the description as well.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKY892P?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_000CNV50A2X063S052JZ&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_000CNV50A2X063S052JZ&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_000CNV50A2X063S052JZ&starsLeft=1&skipTwisterOG=1
That's awesome, I need to rewire my boat but I'm scared I'd mess something up. That's what kinda luck I have
Thanks it came out awesome
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for watching
The bay craft has a hole in it!
Yep working on it as well. Videos coming!
You my friend are no Hack
Thanks man
so this wasn't an editorial it was just showing you how it shoould look right?
This was a how to giving you tips and tricks on wiring. I went through items like using the correct crimp tool, what do you need to do as far as wire, routing and correct use placement. So I think it was an instructional video more than anything.
Labels
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The camera was on you the whole video lol. Talk over your work so we can see how to do it since you love to talk bro damn lol
Thanks for watching!