Lovin this series! i am a 66 yr old grandma of 2 who was going to farm out the electrical part of the build - but no more! Going to go shopping for some fun looking tools. Looking forward to next weeks video already. Thanks.
FINALLY! A 'how to' video that actually shows the 'how' component! Thank you so much for putting this together, the series looks to be unmissable for anyone setting out on a van build, or wanting to up their van building skills. Really looking forward to the next videos in the series.
Love your content! amazing teachers. pretty overwhelmed by doing my van build completely on my own with no experience, your channel has given me confidence to tackle this on my own. MAHALO!!!
So, a lever nut is just a little terminal block. Great idea to have them in-line for add-on circuits, rather than home-run each circuit back to the fuse block. RUclips should have a feedback button stronger than "Like". Love your videos!!!
@@EXPLORISTlife Also, a big THANK YOU for sharing your expertise. So many of your ideas and techniques apply across different activities and hobbies. Had not even heard of them before, but now lever nuts are my new "Go-To" accessory for wiring my model railroad layout... great for both track power and accessories like LED lights. Easy to add on new circuits, and beats cobbling together circuits with solder and heat shrink tubing. Kudos!
Great video again, really loving the series. Am 7 months in waiting for a Transit, kind of self inflicted pain watching your videos as I just want to start build myself :0 Thanks again, Andy.
I know this is a older video. I just found the series and I'm loving it. I would like to add to what you are showing from a troubleshooting point of view, it's easier if your negative is in line with your positive. I.E. first fuse use the first negative spot. So if you start on one end your positive and you're negative wires are straight across from each other or at least in the same number of holes down.
Nate, your attention to detail and showing the audience exactly what you are doing and why is absolutely one of the best I have seen. You really have a gift for conveying information in such a pleasant and informative way. Keep up the good work.
When we did our 2018 Ford Transit 250 conversion (completed a year ago), I was most stressed out about the wiring of the USB outlets and puck lights with dimmers. Once I finally completed all of that, I found out just how simple it really is. When people ask me about the wiring when they watch our van build series - I tell them that they should not overthink it, because in the end, it is just two wires - positive and negative - and some connectors. The dimmer for our two regions of ceiling puck lights was only a little tricky, because I had the wrong kind of dimmer. I ended up getting the same brand of lights (Acegoo) and dimmer and all was well. I run our whole setup with Ecoflow lithium all-in-ones (Delta 1300's and Delta Max), instead of the "traditional" 100Ah Battle Born setup. We do not really do winter camping, so I do not have to worry about keeping them warm - I just lift them out of the van and take them in our house. Another advantage is less gear - no charge controller,. inverter, MPPT, etc. because all of that gear is inside the Ecoflow units. Also, when at a national park campground with no shore power, I can easily carry one to a nearby campground bathroom and plug it in. The Ecoflows charge crazy fast and no NPS staff have ever cared. Just another option for powering a van - it works perfectly for us. I also have a 200W solar panel on top and tomorrow I am installing a Victron DC to DC charger to safely charge while driving. Without the Victron, if I wired directly to the alternator, I would quickly burn it up charging the Ecoflow units. Great series - excellent filming and editing that demonstrates the tasks without wasting viewers time with patting a dog or doing slo-mo coffee-making or having your wife "accidentally" walk by in a bikini! : ) Blessings!
Love the simplicity of the video but you must practice/demonstrate safe electrical practices including, verification that power is removed prior to starting. Thanks for the series, love it
Even when I forgot to turn the switch off, the circuit was still properly fused so that if I had directly shorted the two wires, the fuse would have blown protecting the system as designed.
It's not about the circuit, it is about performing and/or demonstrating something, others will potentially perform on there on. A statement about 'electrical safety and the need to ensure power is removed', will help others and potentially limit your liability. Just friendly advise, cheers..
I actually specifically mentioned that there were no fuses in the fuse block so that there was no power flowing to the circuits at 1:45 in this video, which is sufficient enough disclaimer in my eyes for this video. In the next videos in the series, I added a switch to the battery to further the safety of this setup. I understand that what I do will never be safe enough for some people, but that's just what I have to deal with by being in the public eye. Once I got ridiculed by a viewer for not wearing safety glasses while unboxing a roof rack. I simply cant please everybody. But yes... I specifically mentioned that power was disconnected to the fuse block before the video started.
This step-by-step video makes your 12V Branch Circuit Guidebook come alive. It's just the right amount of information and explanation. Great job and thank you! I'm looking forward to your other 12V wiring presentations :-)
Lever nuts are great! Check through some of the other comments about USB vs 12V outlets as I've already talked a bit about that decision. Thanks for tuning in!
Top notch videos. I've watched these kinds of videos for years but there's never enough detail for non-professionals. These deserve more views than some of the inferior videos that get hundreds of thousands/millions. I will seriously consider buying from you guys directly when I get to that point, if for no other reason than to support your efforts.
Nate, I realize this video is a year old, but I’ve just seen it for the first time and have a question: Is it just a trick of the eye where it looks like your initial wires going from the fuse block out to the outlets are reversed? That is, it looks like the red wire is going to the negative buss bar and the black is going to the positive side. Thanks for all the great videos, they’re really inspirational.
Hey. Thanks for USB video. Had Your consider two things. DC/DC converters are usually somehow switch regulated and that for cabable be reason for RFI. As HAM radio operator always be bit conserned. Another item is had your thinked USB-C. Those are increasing brand - and offer bit more power as ordinary A-type.
*Check out the full electrical installation tutorial for this build:* ruclips.net/video/E5q7_4FH4LQ/видео.html Want to see these USB Outlets actually wired and Installed into the walls of the van? Check this one out: ruclips.net/video/cf2BjQxMKDI/видео.html *Resources mentioned in this video:* ➤ USB Outlet Wiring Kit: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/branch-circuit-wiring-kits/12v-usb-outlet-branch-circuit-wiring-kit/ ➤ 12V Branch Circuit Guidebook: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/solar-wiring-diagrams/12v-branch-circuits/ This is the specific 12V USB Outlet we used, but it looks like it's sold out/discontinued: amzn.to/3xYDdKU Our wiring kit will work with pretty much any of the other hard-wired USB outlets found here: amzn.to/3A4Ae6p ➤Shop the EXPLORIST.life Store: shop.explorist.life ➤Shop Battle Born Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com?afmc=explorist_bb67 ➤Binge the Transit Van Build: ruclips.net/p/PLmvhcyi4n0TVfA4XCYJBkzfUXunSON1zX
On one of your older videos you recommended installing 12v sockets instead of usb ports because of the speed technology advances. I'm glad I did that, because I found a 12v adapter that powers my laptop. And also because I've changed other divices to usb-c. Is there a reason now to install as usb ports? EDITED -- I just reached the end of the video -- you installed both. Also, LEVERNUTS ARE THE BEST!!! I so enjoyed installing them. 😁
New to this. You guys are great. I am learning from start to finish. I do not know anything about Instant gram...yet. Just got a 2022 170 3500. I will be following you Thanks
Are these outlets wired in parallel? Also, how do you calculate what wire gauge to use when you don't know what appliances will be plugged in? Do the outlets come with a rating like "rated to 5 amps" so you can calculate wire gauge using wire length and maximum amps? Thanks!
How many USB outlets and one circuit and are you going to use a relay and fuse on that circuit not that it needs it. i’m planning installing 15 USB outlets same size 4 transit 350 you guys have trust me. It’s not excessive. I have lots going on when it comes to electrical. Awesome videos. I’m glad you guys made a series. I rely on videos like this are properly numbered and helps with my learning disability, I can always go back replay the entire video. I did the same thing on Jeep JK Wrangler and help me build a jeep from stock to a full on Rockcrawler with 37 inch tires and Dana 33 front and rear long arm lift kit keep up the good work, wish you guys well on your business. I’ve been watching your videos since day one. I am at ex employee from El Kapitan van conversion from the Huntington Beach ca. Keep up the good work because doing an excellent job.
Our USB Branch Circuit Wiring Kits accommodate up to 3 outlets per circuit and you can add as many of these circuits as you like to your fuse block: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/12v-usb-outlet-branch-circuit-wiring-kit/
Great videos y'all! I am learning so much from your tutorials. I see you are using 16 ga wire to run to your pucklights, but am wondering what ga you are running from the battery to the fuse block? Thanks and I love this channel!
Great video. I was wondering if you or any of your viewers could help. I just installed a 4-piece set. one display that shows voltage. One is an on/off switch. One is a cigarette lighter style, and one is two usb. My problem is when I plug in my phone, I'm getting 6 to 8 hr charge times. I have a 10 amp fuse and plenty of battery. The only thing I can think of is the factory wiring is too small. If I rip it all out and replace with 16 gauge will that give me a faster charging time? Any ideas?
I have a similar questions, should be most recent, above. My sense is a cigarette style plug connected this way would work for your application, presumably because the USB adapter performs some sort of step up. Anker and Baseus make reliable USB-C adapters supporting 100W output and have used these in my van home. I speculate to do the same "straight" from a USB plug illustrated in the video would require a DC step-up converter but I'm an amateur.
Thanks Nate, Retired electrician here with very little 12V experience and no solar at all... Currently 3 mos into a cargo/camper conversion and wish I'd found you last January! Planning on paralleling 90AH battery and Aux from car to a 6 ckt 12V fuse block. 120V shore pwr runs a 3amp trickle charger to a 5amp fuse. Solar ctl panel to a 10amp fuse. 12V lighter sockets, USB jacks, lighting and radio/DVD player all fused accordingly. WHY CAN'T I USE A 20A SPEC GRADE 2 POLE SWITCH FOR THE SOLAR DISCONNECT? 100watts @ 16V is a little over 6 amps...
If the switch is rated for DC current, the voltage that will be flowing through it, and the amperage that will be flowing through it, I suspect it should 'technically' be fine, but without knowing your exact setup, I can't validate for sure. This is the solar isolator switch that we are now recommending that meets the needs of nearly all solar arrays we come across: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/switches-disconnects/solar-isolator-disconnect/
Great video as always. Complete beginner question. How do you fasten the USB outlet to the wall? They all have the plastic tightening nut on the back, but how are you suppose to tighten it when the walls are up and you don't have access behind the wall? What am I missing. Thanks
Love these videos as they are clear and concise. Can you tell me what gauge wire you recommend from the battery to the fuse board. Appreciate different distances but say 3-4 feet from the battery? Thanks
really useful. the lever nuts look like a worthwhile purchase. will you have any 12v items that require separate switches installed? water pump, heater, that kind of thing?
Most definitely! Will be doing 12VDC Switches, 120VAC switches, dimmers, 2 way switches, switches and 2 way switches with dimmers (I think that's all 🤣).
Hi great vids, thank you. Is there a reason you use seperate red and black wires rather than two in one outer sleeve( ithink you in the U.S call it 12 2 cable)? Thanks in advance
Hey Nate love all your videos you are the only 2 people I will follow for our van build(when we finally buy a van) just a couple of questions... Q1I heard Installing a cigarette socket is a better idea than usb because you can get USB adapters to slot in making it more versatile and because they can be updated also it doesn't constantly drain the battery. Is this true? Q2. Also could I install a USB c adapter or does it have to be the usual USB outlet Thanks for your help
It's totally OCD, but I would have to put the negative in the terminal directly opposite where the positive was! that way it is easy to know which is which when the board is fully populated. like I say, either works but for a fully neat job and a good dose of OCD....
Hi there, I thought in a previous video you recommended not hardwiring USB outlets so if the technology changed, such as with USB C, You could easily swap out the USB A outlet shown in this video with a USB C outlet? Thank you for your helpful videos!
These outlets can indeed be swapped out with whatever USB type comes around, yes. Check through the rest of the comments on my thoughts on that older videos as I've shared my thoughts about that already.
To install USB-PD capable of 90W output capable of fast charging a laptop or supporting a Starlink Mini, do you insert buck converter? Or are there outlets that provide higher wattage output? Is it simpler to install cigarette plugs and use adapter supporting high-wattage output? Thanks!
Awesome videos! I’m using it as a base to build my live-aboard sailboat. I want to only have 12v DC onboard. Running DC appliances with many different voltages are becoming a bit of a headache. Shavers, laptops, CCTV cameras, raspberry PI, WiFi etc. are all running at different voltages from 8 - 20v DC. Have you find an efficient way to step down and step up DC voltages in a 12v DC system? XY-SK 80 adjustable power supply is the closest solution I could find but it’s cumbersome to set up. Keep up the awesome videos!
Most small DC devices come with a 12V 'cigarette lighter' adapter, of some kind. We'd just use that. For things that don't; we'd just plug them into our 120V system and run it through our inverter. Big fan of keeping it simple here.
Great video!! Can you integrate how to connect a toggle switch to a circuit like that just in case you want to power those outlets down and turn on when needed?
I'm not going to cover that use-case specifically, but next weeks video is going to cover how to wire puck lights which teaches how to wire a switch, and once you know how to wire a switch; you could wire a switch into this circuit if desired.
This may be a dumb question, but I see you attached the hot and ground to opposite ends of the bus bars. I have all my circuits wired next to each other (don’t worry, no fuses yet). Do I need to switch them?
Really been enjoying your videos. We have usb outlets in our van put in by winnebago. We've slowly been changing things to our personal preference. Question for you, when we plug in our phone charging cable to the usb immediately i hear a high pitched sound coming from the usb outlet. But when its unplugged there is no such noise. Any ideas? The wire by itself or plugged into phone makes the noise.
heya, can you add a switch to this series? also can i have 5 x 15w usb connected in the same way together? will the 12v supply be split between all of them? this is what my USB ports say - Output voltage: 5V - Output current: 2A - Max. 15W power consumption, consider when selecting suitable drive Thanks so much!
Should i use the watt rating on the solar panels to calculate the how many panels the inverter can handle. Or the volts x amps? (This number is a little higher than the stated watts)
What about dealing with voltage drop? Is that not an issue in this case? I found these usb fast charging ports I would love to use on my van, but they generate 90w max and already have 16 gauge wires attached. My run will be about 20ft and if I added 4 of them, that would be about 30amps at full use which I'd need 10 gauge, right? I am not sure how I should wire these up. If I make a single circuit for each one, the 16 gauge wire will have too much voltage drop. I'd appreciate any help.
Great video. Please can I ask. I want to add another USB port to my fuse board. With battery and everything connected do I add the red live cable into fuse board first or do I add the black cable to the earth point first. Or does it not matter. Want to do this safely thanks
I feel like you covered this in another video, but I'm wondering why the wires from the Wago's to the USB connectors are only 2 to 3 inches long? Any particular reasoning for that?
My solar panels have a couple of voltage ratings on them. They are…. Open circuit voltage & voltage at PMax. Which voltage number should I use to Calculate the panel wiring configuration? There are also 2 amp ratings (short circuit current and current at PMax) which amp rating should i use to calculate my solar panel lay out?
Nice. what do you think about soldering? all these lever nuts can add up, and are cumbersome. what's easier than soldering cables and parts? cheap (nearly free) , very secure, and in the rare case you need to open or redo stuff, the soldering iron is your friend. what's your opinion?
Here is what ABYC says about soldering: ABYC E-11.15.3.8 Solder shall *not* be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor. When a stranded conductor is soldered, the soldered portion of the conductor becomes a solid strand conductor, and flexing can cause the conductor to break at the end of the solder joint unless adequate additional support is provided. Here's what I have to add: If I had two people, both inexperienced with electrical wiring, and gave them both 100 connections to make, one using lever nuts and one soldering, how long do you think it would take each of them? What percentage of connections would be perfect? It's so fast and easy to make perfect connections with lever nuts. Soldering is a skill that, if not practiced regularly, results in sub-par connections.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you for this detailed answer. I am an electrical engineer, and been soldering all my life. But on the other hand, the things I've been soldering are not traveling in a van. so maybe. If I'll ever be able to purchase a van (nowhere to be found these days) i'll consider this again.
Are you going to reroute the factory wiring harness? If so, I would love to see a video around this topic. If not, what was the decision process around leaving it?
We will not be re-routing it. We are trying to make this build 'approachable and repeatable' for anybody trying to follow along, and we felt like trying to pull all of that out, re-route it, and re-connect it would be pretty intimidating and not-so-approachable/repeatable, so we are going to show how to build walls and such with the factory wiring in place (just removing the bulky plastic wire covering).
We ended up removing it from the black plastic shield on the driver side and lifting it up a few inches by removing the factory clamps. It gives us a bit more space for framing. We looked at a fe videos online on how to reroute it completely and it was beyond our level of comfort.
Hey Nate. Is there a reason why the third USB port has a levernut? Could it also be connected directly to the positive and negative wire leading from the second USB port?
No mention of the power of those chargers? The latest phones & tables require big power to even charge now days. Those are usb type A connectors. Do you have an option for USB 4.8A chargers? As well as supporting PD 3.0 and QC 3.0 specs? What about type c connectors since most device want that these days.
I absolutely do not recommend that. Heating the wire and adding solder to the end of the wire to 'harden' the wire makes a weak point where the wire goes from stranded to solid and introduces a point of increased failure.
Love the videos, do you or have you worked or designed 50 amp services with the milultiplus 2. All the pieces should be in the mail coming my way but had a few questions about my existing inverter. It is only dedicated to the fridge, has its own breaker in the junction book and fridge wires go straight to inverter bypassing the junction box. My question is should I just leave it or require all of that into the multiplus. Sorry for the long post
Newb question... um how do I wire the input source. It's threaded and but it doesn't look like it uses a screwdriver. I'm kind of stuck on step one. lol
This is the specific one we used, but it looks like it's sold out/discontinued: amzn.to/3xYDdKU Our wiring kit will work with pretty much any of the other hard-wired USB outlets found here: amzn.to/3A4Ae6p
There are a lot more dedicated USB options available now than there were back when I made that recommendation so my opinion has shifted a bit. I just recommend getting the most up to date USB protocols that we can and then be sure to make it so the USB outlet can be upgraded in a few years when the current USB protocols are outdated.
Great video! Can you link the outlets used? EDIT: I took the time to read all they way down and I read your edit! Thanks IF you are looking for the outlets they used just keep scrolling.
Hi Nate. Awesome information, especially since I'm about to start the wiring in my build. My question is about wire size because the usb sockets I purchased came pre-wired with 20 gauge wire. Is it ok to connect straight into that wire with a 14 gauge?
A comment / warning. 2014 I was installing a new sailing boat. Also there should be some USB chargers. So ordered them online - somewhere on Amazon - if I remember right. Later I measured their idle current - some 60 - 80mA. That seems a lot so I decided to insert a switch. For me this should go with much less. I recommend to test them before installing. Otherwise they eat up your battery soon.
1. What is the best way to check the system is working properly? I understand to follow to owners manual but since I have followed a plan of yours I was wondering if you have specific numbers and or a video? ( 3000w INVERTER | 400-600Ah | 400 TO 1200W SOLAR -CAMPER SOLAR KIT) 2. 110v in fuse box does not have power, how to trouble shoot? The inverter is not putting out power where the triplex wire is hooked up going to the fuse box but everything has a correct reading. 3. How to test shore power? (Without having a shore power wire to plug into van) 4. I have purchased some cheap “5 pin Halo switches” i am hoping to use them as a three way switch, do you know if this is possible? If so do you have a diagram or can you explain how to wire it? They have 5 wires(common,positive, negative, normal open, and Normal closed) 5. Do you know specific brand or switch that looks like “5 pin halo switch” that is meant to be used as a 3 way switch. 6. There extra positive wire for BMV monitor that goes into the b2 terminal, does it need to go to battery bank for extra battery monitoring?
1: I don't have a specific video; but this video is the closest one. I'll put a video like that on the list for this current series. The best way to 'learn' how to use your system is to simply use it. You'll learn more the more you use it. 2: Verify the battery switch is on, verify that there is DC voltage to the inverter, verify that the inverter is on, verify the wires are in their proper locations per the manual/diagram you're following, verify the main AC breaker is on the 'correct' side of the breaker box with all of the other branch circuits, verify that AC out is on AC Out 1 and not AC Out 2 (AC Out 2 is only for shore power passthrough. 3: Not possible. You'll have to find shore power to test shore power. 4: Stay tuned to this series as we will be covering two way switches. 5: I'm not familiar with those, but stay tuned to this series as we will be covering the specific switches needed to make two way switches. 6: If using Lithium batteries with a built in BMS, it's not necessary, no.
I thought you discouraged buying the 12 volt usb outlets, rather wiring an open 12 volt female? (I’m an electricity dork) because the technology keeps changing.
Question... would it be worth it to NOT wire in USB ports, and just buy a USB included 120v outlet, if you're already including 120v outlets? Is there ANY GOOD reason NOT to do that, and just have the USB outlets on the 12v circuit, as shown here? I mean, i know that USB 120v outlets are pretty expensive, but if you're only including a total of 4 or 6 USB plugs, besides what you replace your cigarette lighter(s) with, unless you ACTUALLY use your cigarette lighter for something, then that would likely eliminate a little bit of wiring that you would normally have to do...
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Lovin this series! i am a 66 yr old grandma of 2 who was going to farm out the electrical part of the build - but no more! Going to go shopping for some fun looking tools. Looking forward to next weeks video already. Thanks.
Hey Lesley Hamilton, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Me too ( 65 & was really worried)
Me also (65 was worried) I feel I can do this.
Thank you Nate.
@@zh8966😊😊❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊
FINALLY! A 'how to' video that actually shows the 'how' component! Thank you so much for putting this together, the series looks to be unmissable for anyone setting out on a van build, or wanting to up their van building skills. Really looking forward to the next videos in the series.
Hey Kit At MoonRiverTravelsUK, Thanks so much! Cheers!
The best channel on yt for diy van builds…amazing resource….
Thanks! 🙂🙌
Love your content! amazing teachers. pretty overwhelmed by doing my van build completely on my own with no experience, your channel has given me confidence to tackle this on my own. MAHALO!!!
So, a lever nut is just a little terminal block. Great idea to have them in-line for add-on circuits, rather than home-run each circuit back to the fuse block. RUclips should have a feedback button stronger than "Like". Love your videos!!!
Yeah! Pretty much. Lever nuts are pretty great for these low-amperage branch circuits.
@@EXPLORISTlife Also, a big THANK YOU for sharing your expertise. So many of your ideas and techniques apply across different activities and hobbies. Had not even heard of them before, but now lever nuts are my new "Go-To" accessory for wiring my model railroad layout... great for both track power and accessories like LED lights. Easy to add on new circuits, and beats cobbling together circuits with solder and heat shrink tubing. Kudos!
Why wouldn't you want to run each outlet directly to the fuse block? Seems simpler to me, less to go wrong?
This is the best series because u show the parts, tools and the process along with a bunch of tips. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video again, really loving the series.
Am 7 months in waiting for a Transit, kind of self inflicted pain watching your videos as I just want to start build myself :0
Thanks again,
Andy.
Hey andy, Thanks so much! Cheers!
I know this is a older video. I just found the series and I'm loving it. I would like to add to what you are showing from a troubleshooting point of view, it's easier if your negative is in line with your positive. I.E. first fuse use the first negative spot. So if you start on one end your positive and you're negative wires are straight across from each other or at least in the same number of holes down.
Nate, your attention to detail and showing the audience exactly what you are doing and why is absolutely one of the best I have seen. You really have a gift for conveying information in such a pleasant and informative way. Keep up the good work.
Hey Tony Notstated, Thanks so much! Cheers!
When we did our 2018 Ford Transit 250 conversion (completed a year ago), I was most stressed out about the wiring of the USB outlets and puck lights with dimmers. Once I finally completed all of that, I found out just how simple it really is. When people ask me about the wiring when they watch our van build series - I tell them that they should not overthink it, because in the end, it is just two wires - positive and negative - and some connectors. The dimmer for our two regions of ceiling puck lights was only a little tricky, because I had the wrong kind of dimmer. I ended up getting the same brand of lights (Acegoo) and dimmer and all was well.
I run our whole setup with Ecoflow lithium all-in-ones (Delta 1300's and Delta Max), instead of the "traditional" 100Ah Battle Born setup. We do not really do winter camping, so I do not have to worry about keeping them warm - I just lift them out of the van and take them in our house. Another advantage is less gear - no charge controller,. inverter, MPPT, etc. because all of that gear is inside the Ecoflow units. Also, when at a national park campground with no shore power, I can easily carry one to a nearby campground bathroom and plug it in. The Ecoflows charge crazy fast and no NPS staff have ever cared. Just another option for powering a van - it works perfectly for us. I also have a 200W solar panel on top and tomorrow I am installing a Victron DC to DC charger to safely charge while driving. Without the Victron, if I wired directly to the alternator, I would quickly burn it up charging the Ecoflow units.
Great series - excellent filming and editing that demonstrates the tasks without wasting viewers time with patting a dog or doing slo-mo coffee-making or having your wife "accidentally" walk by in a bikini! : ) Blessings!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Nate cleaver use of the box wrench to put wire loom on! Was no one else impressed by that trick?!?
Haha! Saw that one on TikTok and had to try it. It 'mostly' worked. I give it a 7/10 on helpfulness. 🤣
Love the simplicity of the video but you must practice/demonstrate safe electrical practices including, verification that power is removed prior to starting. Thanks for the series, love it
Even when I forgot to turn the switch off, the circuit was still properly fused so that if I had directly shorted the two wires, the fuse would have blown protecting the system as designed.
It's not about the circuit, it is about performing and/or demonstrating something, others will potentially perform on there on. A statement about 'electrical safety and the need to ensure power is removed', will help others and potentially limit your liability. Just friendly advise, cheers..
I actually specifically mentioned that there were no fuses in the fuse block so that there was no power flowing to the circuits at 1:45 in this video, which is sufficient enough disclaimer in my eyes for this video. In the next videos in the series, I added a switch to the battery to further the safety of this setup. I understand that what I do will never be safe enough for some people, but that's just what I have to deal with by being in the public eye. Once I got ridiculed by a viewer for not wearing safety glasses while unboxing a roof rack. I simply cant please everybody. But yes... I specifically mentioned that power was disconnected to the fuse block before the video started.
Not ridiculous or ridiculing, just trying to help.
This step-by-step video makes your 12V Branch Circuit Guidebook come alive. It's just the right amount of information and explanation. Great job and thank you! I'm looking forward to your other 12V wiring presentations :-)
Hey, Mary F.! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Just bought our van, but no USB sockets. This video has given me the confidence to have a go myself. Thank you!
Hey Mal Greenley - Lake District Views, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
I learned something today, I was unaware of lever nuts. Thanks :). I was a bit surprised that you decided to go with USB instead of 12v power outlets.
Lever nuts are great! Check through some of the other comments about USB vs 12V outlets as I've already talked a bit about that decision. Thanks for tuning in!
Why is USB better than 12v or vise visa??
Top notch videos. I've watched these kinds of videos for years but there's never enough detail for non-professionals. These deserve more views than some of the inferior videos that get hundreds of thousands/millions. I will seriously consider buying from you guys directly when I get to that point, if for no other reason than to support your efforts.
Hey, Amy L! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Love the series so far, just purchased wiring to pre wire prior to main build & scared of electrical- glad to have these videos 👍🙏
Nice! Sounds like an awesome project! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for taking the time, to lay out this step by step demonstration. Extremely helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Very cool video this will help a lot of people you are very patient and clear talking through the steps. Enjoying the series.
Hey Wayne Genewick, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Nate, I realize this video is a year old, but I’ve just seen it for the first time and have a question: Is it just a trick of the eye where it looks like your initial wires going from the fuse block out to the outlets are reversed? That is, it looks like the red wire is going to the negative buss bar and the black is going to the positive side. Thanks for all the great videos, they’re really inspirational.
Hey. Thanks for USB video.
Had Your consider two things. DC/DC converters are usually somehow switch regulated and that for cabable be reason for RFI. As HAM radio operator always be bit conserned.
Another item is had your thinked USB-C. Those are increasing brand - and offer bit more power as ordinary A-type.
USB-C would have been great, but I couldn't find USB-C/USB-A combo outlets that didn't have the annoying lights and such I was trying to avoid.
*Check out the full electrical installation tutorial for this build:* ruclips.net/video/E5q7_4FH4LQ/видео.html
Want to see these USB Outlets actually wired and Installed into the walls of the van? Check this one out: ruclips.net/video/cf2BjQxMKDI/видео.html
*Resources mentioned in this video:*
➤ USB Outlet Wiring Kit: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/branch-circuit-wiring-kits/12v-usb-outlet-branch-circuit-wiring-kit/
➤ 12V Branch Circuit Guidebook: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/solar-wiring-diagrams/12v-branch-circuits/
This is the specific 12V USB Outlet we used, but it looks like it's sold out/discontinued: amzn.to/3xYDdKU Our wiring kit will work with pretty much any of the other hard-wired USB outlets found here: amzn.to/3A4Ae6p
➤Shop the EXPLORIST.life Store: shop.explorist.life
➤Shop Battle Born Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com?afmc=explorist_bb67
➤Binge the Transit Van Build: ruclips.net/p/PLmvhcyi4n0TVfA4XCYJBkzfUXunSON1zX
On one of your older videos you recommended installing 12v sockets instead of usb ports because of the speed technology advances. I'm glad I did that, because I found a 12v adapter that powers my laptop. And also because I've changed other divices to usb-c. Is there a reason now to install as usb ports? EDITED -- I just reached the end of the video -- you installed both. Also, LEVERNUTS ARE THE BEST!!! I so enjoyed installing them. 😁
Tabletop demonstration is 🔥
Rad! Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching, Chad!
Thank u guys...very helpful from start to finish...gave me huge confidence to build the van myself...
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Best channel on RUclips 👍👍👍👍👍
Hey Юрій Мельник, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Very informative content giving me ideas for my camper van conversion
New to this. You guys are great. I am learning from start to finish. I do not know anything about Instant gram...yet.
Just got a 2022 170 3500.
I will be following you
Thanks
Awesome! Thank you!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have been so frustrated with trying to learn how to wire 12v and how to daisy chain.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Are these outlets wired in parallel? Also, how do you calculate what wire gauge to use when you don't know what appliances will be plugged in? Do the outlets come with a rating like "rated to 5 amps" so you can calculate wire gauge using wire length and maximum amps? Thanks!
Best video I've seen on this subject, thank you!
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
How many USB outlets and one circuit and are you going to use a relay and fuse on that circuit not that it needs it. i’m planning installing 15 USB outlets same size 4 transit 350 you guys have trust me. It’s not excessive. I have lots going on when it comes to electrical. Awesome videos. I’m glad you guys made a series. I rely on videos like this are properly numbered and helps with my learning disability, I can always go back replay the entire video. I did the same thing on Jeep JK Wrangler and help me build a jeep from stock to a full on Rockcrawler with 37 inch tires and Dana 33 front and rear long arm lift kit keep up the good work, wish you guys well on your business. I’ve been watching your videos since day one. I am at ex employee from El Kapitan van conversion from the Huntington Beach ca. Keep up the good work because doing an excellent job.
Our USB Branch Circuit Wiring Kits accommodate up to 3 outlets per circuit and you can add as many of these circuits as you like to your fuse block: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/12v-usb-outlet-branch-circuit-wiring-kit/
Great videos y'all! I am learning so much from your tutorials. I see you are using 16 ga wire to run to your pucklights, but am wondering what ga you are running from the battery to the fuse block? Thanks and I love this channel!
Totally gives me the confidence to do this! Can I ask, what amperage of fuse did you use?
Great video. I was wondering if you or any of your viewers could help. I just installed a 4-piece set. one display that shows voltage. One is an on/off switch. One is a cigarette lighter style, and one is two usb. My problem is when I plug in my phone, I'm getting 6 to 8 hr charge times. I have a 10 amp fuse and plenty of battery. The only thing I can think of is the factory wiring is too small. If I rip it all out and replace with 16 gauge will that give me a faster charging time? Any ideas?
I have a similar questions, should be most recent, above. My sense is a cigarette style plug connected this way would work for your application, presumably because the USB adapter performs some sort of step up. Anker and Baseus make reliable USB-C adapters supporting 100W output and have used these in my van home. I speculate to do the same "straight" from a USB plug illustrated in the video would require a DC step-up converter but I'm an amateur.
Thanks Nate, Retired electrician here with very little 12V experience and no solar at all... Currently 3 mos into a cargo/camper conversion and wish I'd found you last January! Planning on paralleling 90AH battery and Aux from car to a 6 ckt 12V fuse block. 120V shore pwr runs a 3amp trickle charger to a 5amp fuse. Solar ctl panel to a 10amp fuse. 12V lighter sockets, USB jacks, lighting and radio/DVD player all fused accordingly. WHY CAN'T I USE A 20A SPEC GRADE 2 POLE SWITCH FOR THE SOLAR DISCONNECT? 100watts @ 16V is a little over 6 amps...
If the switch is rated for DC current, the voltage that will be flowing through it, and the amperage that will be flowing through it, I suspect it should 'technically' be fine, but without knowing your exact setup, I can't validate for sure. This is the solar isolator switch that we are now recommending that meets the needs of nearly all solar arrays we come across: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/switches-disconnects/solar-isolator-disconnect/
Is there a video explaining / sourcing the the fuse block? Thanks!
Great video as always.
Complete beginner question.
How do you fasten the USB outlet to the wall?
They all have the plastic tightening nut on the back, but how are you suppose to tighten it when the walls are up and you don't have access behind the wall? What am I missing.
Thanks
Great topic! Will make sure to cover that when we install the walls. Stay tuned!
Just a heads up, but that video is now live and you can check it out here: ruclips.net/video/cf2BjQxMKDI/видео.html
@@EXPLORISTlife wow I can't believe you remembered my question to follow up with it.
Amazing. I'll check it out.
Thanks
Always great videos
Thanks again!
First off great series. Like others I will now tackle the install myself. I’m looking for some specific advice how can I contact you one on one.
Well done first class wiring
Love these videos as they are clear and concise. Can you tell me what gauge wire you recommend from the battery to the fuse board. Appreciate different distances but say 3-4 feet from the battery? Thanks
really useful. the lever nuts look like a worthwhile purchase. will you have any 12v items that require separate switches installed? water pump, heater, that kind of thing?
Most definitely! Will be doing 12VDC Switches, 120VAC switches, dimmers, 2 way switches, switches and 2 way switches with dimmers (I think that's all 🤣).
Hi great vids, thank you. Is there a reason you use seperate red and black wires rather than two in one outer sleeve( ithink you in the U.S call it 12 2 cable)? Thanks in advance
Hey Nate love all your videos you are the only 2 people I will follow for our van build(when we finally buy a van) just a couple of questions...
Q1I heard Installing a cigarette socket is a better idea than usb because you can get USB adapters to slot in making it more versatile and because they can be updated also it doesn't constantly drain the battery. Is this true?
Q2. Also could I install a USB c adapter or does it have to be the usual USB outlet
Thanks for your help
Great video! UK viewer!
It's totally OCD, but I would have to put the negative in the terminal directly opposite where the positive was! that way it is easy to know which is which when the board is fully populated. like I say, either works but for a fully neat job and a good dose of OCD....
Yeah, you can put the wires into the terminal blocks in whatever orientation makes the most sense to you as it, electrically, doesn't matter.
Nice video bro you make it look like real easy thanks
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
You guys are amazing!!!
Hey Sky H, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Very helpful. Thanks 😎🍷🚍⚓️🇬🇧👍
Hey Roger Job, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Do you happen to have a guidebook or video showing how to wire a USB-C jack?
Hi there, I thought in a previous video you recommended not hardwiring USB outlets so if the technology changed, such as with USB C, You could easily swap out the USB A outlet shown in this video with a USB C outlet? Thank you for your helpful videos!
These outlets can indeed be swapped out with whatever USB type comes around, yes. Check through the rest of the comments on my thoughts on that older videos as I've shared my thoughts about that already.
Does the kit come with usb outlets? I don’t see that in the parts included. I’d also like the ones with no lights but where can I get them?
I STILL have not found one without the LED. I have ordered 3 different ones. Can you please help?
I have a VERY important question. Where can I get that shirt Nate is wearing in the intro. Cut, Strip, crimp, heat shrink. I love it!!!
To install USB-PD capable of 90W output capable of fast charging a laptop or supporting a Starlink Mini, do you insert buck converter? Or are there outlets that provide higher wattage output? Is it simpler to install cigarette plugs and use adapter supporting high-wattage output? Thanks!
Awesome videos! I’m using it as a base to build my live-aboard sailboat. I want to only have 12v DC onboard. Running DC appliances with many different voltages are becoming a bit of a headache. Shavers, laptops, CCTV cameras, raspberry PI, WiFi etc. are all running at different voltages from 8 - 20v DC. Have you find an efficient way to step down and step up DC voltages in a 12v DC system? XY-SK 80 adjustable power supply is the closest solution I could find but it’s cumbersome to set up. Keep up the awesome videos!
Most small DC devices come with a 12V 'cigarette lighter' adapter, of some kind. We'd just use that. For things that don't; we'd just plug them into our 120V system and run it through our inverter. Big fan of keeping it simple here.
Great video!! Can you integrate how to connect a toggle switch to a circuit like that just in case you want to power those outlets down and turn on when needed?
I'm not going to cover that use-case specifically, but next weeks video is going to cover how to wire puck lights which teaches how to wire a switch, and once you know how to wire a switch; you could wire a switch into this circuit if desired.
Hey, at what rate do the usbs charge? Also can this be done to provide a fast charging usb c? Thanks
This may be a dumb question, but I see you attached the hot and ground to opposite ends of the bus bars. I have all my circuits wired next to each other (don’t worry, no fuses yet). Do I need to switch them?
On the fuse block, how come you didnt put the black wire across from the red wire? Isnt it more manageable that way as opposed to opposite ends?
The black wire anywhere on the negative busbar works, so put it wherever you need for proper wire management.
Really been enjoying your videos. We have usb outlets in our van put in by winnebago. We've slowly been changing things to our personal preference. Question for you, when we plug in our phone charging cable to the usb immediately i hear a high pitched sound coming from the usb outlet. But when its unplugged there is no such noise. Any ideas? The wire by itself or plugged into phone makes the noise.
heya, can you add a switch to this series? also can i have 5 x 15w usb connected in the same way together? will the 12v supply be split between all of them?
this is what my USB ports say
- Output voltage: 5V
- Output current: 2A
- Max. 15W power consumption, consider when selecting suitable drive
Thanks so much!
Hi, Do you have a video how to program Victron DC to DC 30amp charger?
Should i use the watt rating on the solar panels to calculate the how many panels the inverter can handle. Or the volts x amps? (This number is a little higher than the stated watts)
Fantastic!
😁😁🙌
I'm not sure if you have any kids but just in case, Happy Mothers Day and have a great one.
What about dealing with voltage drop? Is that not an issue in this case? I found these usb fast charging ports I would love to use on my van, but they generate 90w max and already have 16 gauge wires attached. My run will be about 20ft and if I added 4 of them, that would be about 30amps at full use which I'd need 10 gauge, right? I am not sure how I should wire these up. If I make a single circuit for each one, the 16 gauge wire will have too much voltage drop. I'd appreciate any help.
I was searching your store for the USB outlets, but you don't seem to have them. Do you have a link for this product?
I was also looking for this product link....
👍👍Good info guys.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Great video. Please can I ask. I want to add another USB port to my fuse board. With battery and everything connected do I add the red live cable into fuse board first or do I add the black cable to the earth point first. Or does it not matter. Want to do this safely thanks
Disconnect the battery before working on your electrical system and then it doesn't matter which one you connect first (as shown in this video). 👍🙂
@@EXPLORISTlife ok thanks
Does this make it a series circuit? Would charging from one USB device effect the charging speed of the other separate outlets?
No and no.
I feel like you covered this in another video, but I'm wondering why the wires from the Wago's to the USB connectors are only 2 to 3 inches long? Any particular reasoning for that?
It just gives more flexibility to add outlets to the circuit.
My solar panels have a couple of voltage ratings on them. They are…. Open circuit voltage & voltage at PMax. Which voltage number should I use to Calculate the panel wiring configuration?
There are also 2 amp ratings (short circuit current and current at PMax) which amp rating should i use to calculate my solar panel lay out?
Awesome intel. 👍
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Nice.
what do you think about soldering? all these lever nuts can add up, and are cumbersome. what's easier than soldering cables and parts? cheap (nearly free) , very secure, and in the rare case you need to open or redo stuff, the soldering iron is your friend. what's your opinion?
Here is what ABYC says about soldering:
ABYC E-11.15.3.8 Solder shall *not* be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.
When a stranded conductor is soldered, the soldered portion of the conductor becomes a solid strand conductor, and flexing can cause the conductor to break at the end of the solder joint unless adequate additional support is provided.
Here's what I have to add: If I had two people, both inexperienced with electrical wiring, and gave them both 100 connections to make, one using lever nuts and one soldering, how long do you think it would take each of them? What percentage of connections would be perfect?
It's so fast and easy to make perfect connections with lever nuts. Soldering is a skill that, if not practiced regularly, results in sub-par connections.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you for this detailed answer. I am an electrical engineer, and been soldering all my life. But on the other hand, the things I've been soldering are not traveling in a van. so maybe. If I'll ever be able to purchase a van (nowhere to be found these days) i'll consider this again.
Are you going to reroute the factory wiring harness? If so, I would love to see a video around this topic. If not, what was the decision process around leaving it?
We will not be re-routing it. We are trying to make this build 'approachable and repeatable' for anybody trying to follow along, and we felt like trying to pull all of that out, re-route it, and re-connect it would be pretty intimidating and not-so-approachable/repeatable, so we are going to show how to build walls and such with the factory wiring in place (just removing the bulky plastic wire covering).
We ended up removing it from the black plastic shield on the driver side and lifting it up a few inches by removing the factory clamps. It gives us a bit more space for framing. We looked at a fe videos online on how to reroute it completely and it was beyond our level of comfort.
Hey Nate. Is there a reason why the third USB port has a levernut? Could it also be connected directly to the positive and negative wire leading from the second USB port?
I just find it easier that way.
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks for the reply 👍 I think it is neater
No mention of the power of those chargers? The latest phones & tables require big power to even charge now days. Those are usb type A connectors. Do you have an option for USB 4.8A chargers? As well as supporting PD 3.0 and QC 3.0 specs? What about type c connectors since most device want that these days.
What are your thoughts about tinning the end of the wires. Do you think it would make a better connection?
I absolutely do not recommend that. Heating the wire and adding solder to the end of the wire to 'harden' the wire makes a weak point where the wire goes from stranded to solid and introduces a point of increased failure.
Hi! whats the reason you are using the wago's in between and don't connect straight with a spade connector to the USB port?
Flexibility and ease of testing/troubleshooting. It’s not absolutely necessary if you don’t think it helps.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you for the quick reply! That makes sense. Awesome video btw, super clear!
If you only have one circuit, why do you need any lever nuts? Just wire the fuse panel directly to the USB port with spade connectors?
Sure! That's another option. Lots of ways to do this stuff.
Would it matter if you used a 3 conductor lever nut instead of a 2 conductor on the last outlet?
Nope.
Do you have any more information on the "Lever Nuts?"
What 'more information' do you want? A google search for 'WAGO Lever Nuts' will reveal the product page from the manufacturer.
@@EXPLORISTlife
I was making sure I found the correct item.
Love the videos, do you or have you worked or designed 50 amp services with the milultiplus 2. All the pieces should be in the mail coming my way but had a few questions about my existing inverter. It is only dedicated to the fridge, has its own breaker in the junction book and fridge wires go straight to inverter bypassing the junction box. My question is should I just leave it or require all of that into the multiplus. Sorry for the long post
I would remove the OEM inverter and let the Multiplus (s) shine.
Was looking through your vids do you have any multiplus 2 installs
Newb question... um how do I wire the input source. It's threaded and but it doesn't look like it uses a screwdriver. I'm kind of stuck on step one. lol
I saw your wiring kit in your shop but it does not include the 12v usb outlets themselves. Do you have a link to those?
This is the specific one we used, but it looks like it's sold out/discontinued: amzn.to/3xYDdKU Our wiring kit will work with pretty much any of the other hard-wired USB outlets found here: amzn.to/3A4Ae6p
Hey Nate, which software tool do you use to create your wiring diagrams?
I use Microsoft Visio to make all of my diagrams.
I thought you didn’t like usb dedicated and recommended the 12v open plug?
There are a lot more dedicated USB options available now than there were back when I made that recommendation so my opinion has shifted a bit. I just recommend getting the most up to date USB protocols that we can and then be sure to make it so the USB outlet can be upgraded in a few years when the current USB protocols are outdated.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey @pet_cow_5452, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Nice 1 guys
Great, Thanks!! 👍
Great video! Can you link the outlets used? EDIT: I took the time to read all they way down and I read your edit! Thanks
IF you are looking for the outlets they used just keep scrolling.
Hi Nate. Awesome information, especially since I'm about to start the wiring in my build. My question is about wire size because the usb sockets I purchased came pre-wired with 20 gauge wire. Is it ok to connect straight into that wire with a 14 gauge?
'yes', but you need to fuse for the 20A wire size.
Did you lizard skin the interior?
Yep! Episode 8-11 of this build series was about that: ruclips.net/p/PLmvhcyi4n0TVfA4XCYJBkzfUXunSON1zX
what is the point f using a lever nut if you are only connecting one USB outlet? Why not just wire direct fuse block to USB?
A comment / warning.
2014 I was installing a new sailing boat. Also there should be some USB chargers. So ordered them online - somewhere on Amazon - if I remember right.
Later I measured their idle current - some 60 - 80mA. That seems a lot so I decided to insert a switch.
For me this should go with much less.
I recommend to test them before installing. Otherwise they eat up your battery soon.
Good tip! That's another reason we went with USB outlets without all of the LED lights and voltage indicators and such on them.
@@EXPLORISTlife Which USB outlets were those? Unless I’m missing it, I don’t see a link. Thx!
1. What is the best way to check the system is working properly? I understand to follow to owners manual but since I have followed a plan of yours I was wondering if you have specific numbers and or a video? ( 3000w INVERTER | 400-600Ah | 400 TO 1200W SOLAR -CAMPER SOLAR KIT)
2. 110v in fuse box does not have power, how to trouble shoot? The inverter is not putting out power where the triplex wire is hooked up going to the fuse box but everything has a correct reading.
3. How to test shore power? (Without having a shore power wire to plug into van)
4. I have purchased some cheap “5 pin Halo switches” i am hoping to use them as a three way switch, do you know if this is possible? If so do you have a diagram or can you explain how to wire it? They have 5 wires(common,positive, negative, normal open, and Normal closed)
5. Do you know specific brand or switch that looks like “5 pin halo switch” that is meant to be used as a 3 way switch.
6. There extra positive wire for BMV monitor that goes into the b2 terminal, does it need to go to battery bank for extra battery monitoring?
1: I don't have a specific video; but this video is the closest one. I'll put a video like that on the list for this current series. The best way to 'learn' how to use your system is to simply use it. You'll learn more the more you use it.
2: Verify the battery switch is on, verify that there is DC voltage to the inverter, verify that the inverter is on, verify the wires are in their proper locations per the manual/diagram you're following, verify the main AC breaker is on the 'correct' side of the breaker box with all of the other branch circuits, verify that AC out is on AC Out 1 and not AC Out 2 (AC Out 2 is only for shore power passthrough.
3: Not possible. You'll have to find shore power to test shore power.
4: Stay tuned to this series as we will be covering two way switches.
5: I'm not familiar with those, but stay tuned to this series as we will be covering the specific switches needed to make two way switches.
6: If using Lithium batteries with a built in BMS, it's not necessary, no.
Wouldn’t it be better to wire them in parallel with a common negative than to wire them in series like that?
They are in parallel. Series would have been a positive to negative connection.
I thought you discouraged buying the 12 volt usb outlets, rather wiring an open 12 volt female? (I’m an electricity dork) because the technology keeps changing.
I still prefer the 12V female outlets for that reason; but ultimately, people wanted tutorials over the usb outlets, so here it is.
Why my usb glowing even I didn’t plug fuse in yet 😅
Question... would it be worth it to NOT wire in USB ports, and just buy a USB included 120v outlet, if you're already including 120v outlets? Is there ANY GOOD reason NOT to do that, and just have the USB outlets on the 12v circuit, as shown here? I mean, i know that USB 120v outlets are pretty expensive, but if you're only including a total of 4 or 6 USB plugs, besides what you replace your cigarette lighter(s) with, unless you ACTUALLY use your cigarette lighter for something, then that would likely eliminate a little bit of wiring that you would normally have to do...