Motorcycle Steering Stem Bearing Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 5 дек 2013
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Steering Stem Bearings are prone to uneven wear simply because they tend to only turn a few degrees during their lifetime. These bearings also have a lot of stress on them from the weight of the bike and pressure from the forks and triple tree under stress. Steering Head Bearings are not hard to replace if you have the correct tools and follow the right steps. This video outlines the proper way to disassemble your bike and replace both bearings and their outer races. We also demonstrate the use of a few of the specialty tools we carry to make replacing your steering stem bearings an easy task. Get all the parts and tools you need including OEM parts for your bike, today at Rocky Mountain ATV/MC!
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Never ceases to amaze me how awesome the RockyMt ATV how to videos are. Even this older video is so well produced and useful. Thanks, guys! This is one of the reasons why I will continue to be a loyal customer.
great video. i know a lot of people are commenting on the tools costing too much, but someone once gave the advice of use what you like and ignore the rest. i was almost able to finish getting everything off without any fancy tools, but i just could not get anything to catch the lower race. i went ahead and got the slider hammer and the 45mm collet off their site, i couldn't find that size collet anywhere else on the net. got them today, and it popped out after about a minute of set up. i had spent a couple hours using multiple punches, screwdrivers, pipes, anything else i could shove that would remotely grab the edge of that race. the grief it saved was well worth the $4x dollars, and now i've got a slide hammer in the tool collection should i need one in the future.
Pat Terry, I'm not sure if PVC would work or not, i've never seen it done but i guess there's only one way to find out! Yes you can cut off that lower bearing, you just have to be extremely careful not to cut through into the steering stem.
The best video on youtube on bearing replacement. Thank you. One thing that I highly recommend that you add to the video: Put the races in dry ice for at least one hour before installing. It was brutal installing the races at room temperature. GOD WHY???
Thanks for sharing!
I've been a big fan and supporter of Dennis Kirk, giving them most of my parts business. But now after seeing the online support and mechanical videos, I'm gonna start using y'alls' catalog and get parts from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. This is, to quote Malcolm Smith, really neat! Thanks and God bless.
Thanks timm white! We appreciate the feedback and please, feel free to let us know if you want to see something changed or added. Thanks again for watching!
Hands down best video on steering stem bearing replacement. Thanks for this.
Chuck Tate Thanks Chuck! We appreciate feedback good or bad but "hands down best video" feedback! What an honor! Were you named after Chuck Norris?
yeah i had a shop do the lower bearing...but next time i will try the chisel set with care..yeah good video, nice to see all the different options
thanks for providing the alternative methods to do this without the special tools. Now i know which tools I NEED and which ones i could do without.
Very good video. A methodical explanation and steady verbal delivery...
Please make a video using ordinary tools, that will be super helpful. Thanks.
So I don’t need special spanner a large adjustable or hammer and screw driver . U don’t need special case remover hammer and socket will do and u don’t need special puller hammer and chisssel will do and heat may help . if that’s any use to u one year later lol 😂
Special tools are nice for workshops to make the job easier but the average person does not have these tools . They are expensive and if you don't dont change steering head bearings regularly it just does not worth it to buy them . Using ordinary tools requires to be very careful so a video on it would be much appreciated !
@@chriscs9080 totally agree
Be creative
@chriscs9080 idk personally ill keep the 40 dollar tool for my entire lifetime vs trying to use a bunch of bs. Even if I only use it twice. But that's me. 40 bucks isn't so drastic and neither is paying a shop the same to do the same thing 😂 shits not expensive even a little 😅
Thank you for the help! Didnt need any special tools just hammer and screwdrivers
And vice
tools received this morning, thank you rockymountain!
Damn those tools make everything look so easy!
Thanks so much for the video! This worked perfectly for my r6 bearings. I didn’t have the right size pipe so I cut my jack handle down the middle a bit so it woul open up as I installed the bearing!
thanks for this helpfull video, just ordered the tools on your website for my cr250r to replace my steering bearings + linkage bearings rebuilt kit
Great video, thanks for sharing. I'm about to attempt this job on my ZX6R.
When using a torque wrench, it's important to keep a hand pressed into the torque head center to prevent false readings or dammage due to camber stress.
Amazing video guys, keep it up!
Very good video. Very detailed with helpful tips
excellent video thank's rocky mountain ATV MC !!!!!!!!
Using sockets to remove and install races work well. Just make sure to use a dead blow hammer or put a piece of wood between the socket and metal hammer when striking the socket.
All that process looks easy to achieve, simple. But, in some parts of mexico, to get one of those tools is a real challenge.
Perfect! 👍Great tools! I have made my own!
Nice content sir, thank you for sharing. I have an idea now to replace the steering bearing of my motorcycle.
This is an excellently presented video.
I just ordered the steering stem removal park tool for my 2005 Yamaha YZ250 and due the clearance between frame and rase is minimal the tool slips and cant remove it....... any tips ?.
Great video, still very useful,a complete job; THANKS; (don't need any of those *expensive* tools for a one time job,of course).)
Nicely done on the video.
Thank you
1 1/4" galvanized steel pipe with the plastic thread protectors works great for driving on that lower bearing I found that out today
Is greasing necessary periodically say after every 8000-10,000kms?
is there an alternative to remove the bearing race?
Does anyone know what size collet is used with the bearing puller for the outer races?
I did everything up to tightening the spanned nut but it’s not turning smoothly. What went wrong?
Thanks for this informative video.
i need to replace the bearing in my 09 wr450f. A week on the stand without moving it and i have to almost kick the bars to un freeze the steering. I Was quoted $300 to have replaced and after watching i can see why. Ive done swing arm and wheel bearings before but this is a little harder without correct tools. I should have just pulled it apart before it got bad a re greased.
+sirjolly81 Yea. If you're looking to save some money this time around and in the future it's a good service to learn and to keep up on. The correct tools definitely make this job go a lot smoother. Good luck, let us know if you have any questions!
i got a bike with a bent tube that i replaced, but my tubes are very hard to install/remove, they don't just fall out like the video, do i have to buy a new triple clamp?
Where can i get some of those dust shields from?
Most every bicycle shop has the park headset bearing remover. Or make one with a cutoff wheel on the disc grinder and weld a nut to the top to hammer on.
Should the stem nut be flush with the stem? Is it ok if it doesn’t go fully flush?
Every brand new mx bike ive bought since 1980 never had near enough grease to call the bearing greaesed. I do a full tear down and grease every pivot and bearing on the bike before i ride them now. Also i blue loctight all the bolts for the plastics and anything else that likes to come loose
what would an approximate value for the torque on the top spanner nut securing the bearing.
Great video, but who has $500-$600 for all these awesome tools.
I t would be cool to see a video for the average person that doesn't have most of this stuff, maybe less of an add and more of a how too!
AlbertaDaver Understood. With these tools you can ensure a proper install of the bearings, they will help the job go a lot more smoothly and save a lot of time in the long run. There are other methods to do the job yes, but you create a higher risk of damaging your new parts and your pricey OEM parts. Tools can get pricey, but they can last you a lifetime if used correctly. Glad you enjoyed our video!
+AlbertaDaver Doing this without at least some basic tools is a damned nightmare. Buy the tools, use them, and then sell them on eBay.
i know it's a bit late but i just replaced the bearings on an xr200. almost identical to the video except i dont have any special tools. just a hammer, some funky shaped punches. just gotta work your way around the edges easy so you dont get the bearing crooked and careful not to bike into anything (slip with the chisel and break something).
used the old bearings to put the new ones in so as not to damage the cage or the race.
seemed like they provided alternatives where possible. sometimes you just need the right tool, or know someone with the right tool
Just done mine with a screwdriver and hammer . Taking all the crap off first took the longest. The bottom bearing race is where it takes time , I just kept hitting away using the screwdriver as a wedge . I had already snapped the end off trying to use it as a pry. The old race and a big ring spanner ..oh yes that's another tool , was helpful wacking the bottom race back in. The spanner can be used as quite a powerful pry too
Hi good video I was just wondering how are you supporting the bike while you do this?
Hi Pandelis Katsianis We've just got this bike up on a bike stand with the rear tire touching the ground. You just want to be careful when you pull the front tire and both forks because sometimes if the bikes rear tire isn't touching the ground, the bike will rock back when the bike becomes unbalanced. Other than that, just having the bike on a stand allows you to complete this bearing replacement no problem.
I always put races in the freezer when I’d get the parts in. They then just drop in for the most part. I think maybe next time I might freeze the lower triple stem assembly and see if the bearing would slide on
It is amazing how well that works. I do it too. - Justin
using a hammer and flat head screw driver between the triple tree and bearing pushed it high enough up to then use a sort of thick flat tipped chisel to hammer off the bearing worked twice for me! thanks for the tips!
Nice work!
Perfect video
Just like to mention that there are only three items that you have to force in. the lower bearing and the two races. U can use the old bearings to tap on the new bearings aim carefully. Also just thought I would mention with my 1972 Honda cb175 there are two different sizes of bearings. I was told the larger 27x48.5x17 goes on the bottom and the 26x48.5x15 goes on the top. The pyramid parts said it would come with instructions and didn't. When using the old bearing to force the bottom bearing take the bearings and collar of the bearing off so its just the inside race, easy way to do that is use a small flat screw driver to move the bearings to the outside then use your thumbs to push it out at an angle. Then turn the old bearing over so that the larger part is on the new bearing and tap two taps and move around in a circle. Freeze the triple clamp and the bearing races to shrink them. Remember cold shrinks and hot swells. You can use the old bearing races to pound the new ones in unless your kit comes with a washer which u can use that.
Can anyone tell me what size wrench is needed to remove the upper and lower triple fork tube pinch bolts on 04-05 CRF 450? Are those 12mm or 13mm? I want to know what size wrench I need to bring to loosen those....rather than a whole entire set. thanks! (or at least not having to bring 10mm-15mm cause I would bet its one of those, no way those are larger than 15mm, they look like 12 or 13 to me)
The "Park tool race remover" comes in two sizes..which will i need to do pre 2000..250 & 500 dirtbikes?
The easiest and most accurate way to determine this would be to measure the races but for most all bikes the larger size (1 1/4"- 1 1/2") is going to be the correct size. Of course this is a universal tool so keep that in mind. If you have any questions let me know. Thanks for watching!
Such a great video! I am waiting on my tools to do this job and studying the video. However, I can't find race removers anywhere. For the slide hammer bearing remover, which size collet do you need to remove those races?
We used the 45mm collet with the slide hammer.
Dig those groovy tools man.
Yes, they are really nice!
good video.....( from Indonesia Bali )
+Ruddy Surja Hey thanks. Hope it helped!
Good video, guys!
Thanks for watching!
Which size collet did you use here when using the tusk bearing removal tool?? will the collets provided in the kit be big enough/fit most stem bearing jobs?
Yes. There are a variety of different size collets to adapt to your size bearing you're removing
My bike is duke200 I had changed the cone&ball today still my bike handle is jerking . My mechanic told me that I need to replace Upper Steering stem ( Top Triple Clamp jg151002 ) .. what's your opinion about this .!
Use hot and cold as your tools also. Freezer and oven, or torch and freeze spray, whatever will work, if you need to.
I want this special tools bearing remover is awesome
Everyone complaining about special tools, you can remove the races with a hammer and a screwdriver if you have to, you can install the new ones with an old socket and a hammer.
the bottom bearing you can install with a hammer and screwdriver.
Your more than likely going to put dents and dings in paint or metal but thats the reason the special tools exist.
The tools arent even that expensive if your gunna use them once get some china made ones and throw them in a bin when you are done.
If it the tools were cheap and the jobs were easy mechanics would go out of business.
*Owain* I like the way you think! The specialty tools definitely make the job go smoother and install is a breeze. Thanks for sharing some alternative methods with us. Thanks for watching.
Owain i tried the hammer and screwdriver method it didnt work that why im here now
I just torched all the bearings and collars off. So much easier!
You risk changing the metallurgy of your steering stem that way. As I'd rather not make it brittle and risk it cracking while I ride over rocks etc. in the middle of nowhere, I'll stick to using carefully placed blows with a hammer and chisel.
thanks brother
What do you call the top part?same stem?
Is it true that the steering stem is an interference fit with the lower triple clamp? I wanted a shop to press out my stem but the guy said that he didn't recommend it because it won't go back together exactly the same?
Never heard that one before. while it is an "interference fit" (meaning the tight fit holds them together), most manuals tell you to replace the inner race by pressing out the stem. It will go back together fine. Not sure what he means.
helps alot, thx man
Very helpful video. About to do these on my pitbike.
Thanks for posting!
TheSaneRider Thanks for the comment and Thanks for watching!
Couldnt You just take the remover for the lower seat for the upper as well? Or just use something like a old screwdriver ? Sorry for my English I’m from germany ✌️
Simon R
You can use the remover tool or screwdriver and hammer.
Installing the new races into stem is more challenging. I tried it today.
Perfect
nice information
Thanks for the tip on removing the bottom bearing with chisels. Carefully.
Great DIY..
Thank you!
"Tighten up the steering head nut just about as tight as we can" no, no, no!
@Uriel Ace shut up. You’re gay
If this were a street bike, it would be important to tighten the steering stem nut so that when the wheel is on and it's all been put together below, that there is a bit of drag when turning. What happens is if these are a bit loose, they will bang the rollers into the races every time you hit a pothole. What happens with street bikes is that you spend most of your riding going straight down the highway, and those rollers wear a groove into the races in time. The tighter they are, the less banging there will be, and they will last longer, but will eventually wear "notchy", that is the wheel when off the ground, can be moved by hand and a definite notch in the middle will be felt. This can wear you out on a road trip. It can fatigue you within a number of hours and make your long trip miserable. These have to be checked as the miles roll by. Check them at least every 10,000 miles, to see that they are not getting loose, (front to rear play when pulling on the forks legs by the wheel, when off the ground) while also checking for a notchy place in the front wheel, where it likes to settle when straight.
i feel like this video is a long advertisement for a bunch of tools i'll never get around to buying, but somehow in the middle of all the hardware i learned how to take apart and reassemble the front end lol
If you have the cash, buy the tools. They'll save you a lot of headaches because most of the races have extremely tight tolerances with the steering stem. And you'll have to buy a small spanner wrench anyway, the job cannot be done without it. And no, the same spanner from your rear shock will not work. However, it can be done without:
-pull everything apart, and get a long screwdriver to punch out the old races through the other side of the stem. Go around slowly to make sure you don't mar the inside of the stem.
-put the new outer races into the freezer for an hour and let the metal shrink. Then quickly press them into the stem and hope they fit. Usually they will with a few taps from a rubber mallet.
-If the freezer trick doesn't work, you're gonna have to create some type of jig to pull the races into place from the other side of the stem. I cut some hard oak into the same shape as their metal press pieces, and attached it all to some threaded stock from lowes, along with a few bolts. it's basically a long rod with two bolts & washers on the end, and two wooden race presses in the middle. Again, buy their tool to save you some headaches.
-slowly screw the jig and it'll pull the races into the right place (hopefully).
-put the triple back together and torque the top bolt TO THE CORRECT TORQUE FROM THE MANUAL. Failing to do so can ruin everything you just did. Again, I had to buy a special spanner wrench that had a hole for a torque wrench.
-Put it all back together and check for smooth operation.
If you can't afford the tools or aren't confident in your handy skills, take it to a shop. Seriously, this isn't as easy as it looks.
All you need are the two arms from a gear puller, put them against each, it doesn't matter which way, hook them on the lip of the race, put a block of wood down the center from the top and hammer out.
what about front wheel alignment aftet all this work?!
You can check out this video to see how to install and align a front wheel.
ruclips.net/video/6LtDZrSsu2U/видео.html
Rubber dust seal shouldn't contact a petroleum based grease because it'll will damage the rubber. Better to grease the dust seal with red rubber grease or dust seals rubber are resistant to petroleum based grease?
A quick trip to the hardware store for a few pieces of scrap steel pipe and you just saved hundreds on tools. I bet people couldn't imagine how we did things for decades before the internet wated to sell a tool for everything 😂
What size collet did you use?
I believe the 40mm collet was used on the slide hammer.
If you use a Bearing pulling tool 05:40 does it damage the bearings in any way?
If you get the blades underneath the bearing it shouldn't damage it all but if you're in there its definitely recommended to replace the steering stem bearings anyway.
Thanks for watching!
@@rmatvmc .thank you for your reply. Do you ship to the U.K please, is so how do I order?
The vid made it look easy but trust me unless you are PRO, steering head bearing replacement is a challenging task especially if you choose not to remove the the front instrument and headlight unlike the vid Like what Rocky mountain suggest all the special tools suggested are needed for this task save for a few. Actually some of these tools are also for bicycle head steering replacement. But the force required for seating and remove motorcycle bearing differed very much from that of a bicycle bearing.
One hint is the job is made easier if you could use small pencil butane flame to accurately heat the worn race on the steering stem before using a chisel to pry around to remove it. The bottom steering stem puller ( VERY EXPENSIVE) is not really required For seating the bearing on the steering head, heat around the steering head rim first to seat the frozen bearing using the steering stem press.
Actually the slide bearing remover might not be necessary to use to remove the top race., Inverted the Park steering head remover and tap from bottom up to remove this race.This is much easier.
Where final the tool?
How often replace? I got a new bike 2 years already just started rough turning and not smoothly... I'm thinking of clean and regrease? Any advice
It will vary depending on how often you ride and in what conditions but it's a good idea to check bearings and replace or re-grease at least once a year. So if you feel your steering bearings turning roughly, it's definitely recommended to service them!
@@rmatvmc I appreciate the quick response I re-greased on the weekend and it feels smooth it's brand new bike they don't put much grease Innthe manufacturer step
At first I thought that was a chopper going through the mud I was like whatttttt?!
Can the bearings and race's withstand being baked at 200c ?
I am getting my frame powder coated and I don't have the tools to remove this stuff properly.
+surg23 No. You would definitely want to remove the bearings if you are wanting to reuse them. The bearings would get ruined in the process of powder coating.
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Aww crud. Thanks for the info!
+surg23 You're welcome.. good luck on the job!
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Cheers!
U know they do make a bearing packer
What could be subbed for the race install tool?
You can use one of the old races that you previously removed and line it up on top of the new race and use that to drive the race into the frame neck. This is a fairly common method...
Genius!
Tho tools are not expensive just bought both for £130 thats worth it , ive mangled loads bodging it these make it so easy :-)
anybody know what size spanner wrench is that ?
Here's the spanner wrench we used on this bike:
www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-steering-stem-spanner-wrench-p
Hope that helps!
Even better it is on the exact bike I am servicing.
Perfect! Did you get the job done?
I just got the stuff to do it this week.
Phork702 Awesome!
Could you use a PVC pipe to put the bearings on? Also couldn't you just cut off the bearings?
Did the PVC work for you?
I used either a length of PVC pipe or a length of black pipe when I did my lower bearing (the one that goes onto the triple tree shaft). It was fine. Just make sure it's the right diameter. You can easily get either pipe cheap at a plumbing supply store or hardware store.
should really palm the bearing in a scraping motion in the gap between the two sections
Why not use sealed bearings?
Hi! So I had a notch somewhere in the bearings where my handlebars centred and were not smooth. I've purchased new bearings and had my mechanic replace them. For a few days it was fine but it now reverted to the same thing + handlebar feels unbalanced now leaning towards the right. Before I let loose on my mechanic was wondering if anyone here could say what could possibly be the cause if not the bearings?
Dimitri Boyarski I wonder if he replaced the outer races of the steering stem bearings or if he re-used them? Did he pack the bearings with grease? Could it be a cable snagging and catching possibly? Not sure what bikes it on, but those would be my guesses you could try out. Thanks for chiming in man!
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Hi, Thanks. So i got 2 full kits (upper and lower), I'm sure he greased and installed both. Bike is my (L) CBF 125 so couldn't have been that difficult. The steering feels like there's a notch when dead centre, having corrected this immediatelly after install it reverted back to exact same notch, only now it also feels unbalanced leaning to the right. Doesnt feel like a cable snag but more like something mechanical. PS What is "chiming"?
Dimitri Boyarski Chiming is a term we just use for the notification "Bell" in the top right corner is all :). And it's tuff to say what the issue could be not having the bike here to look at? Best thing to do is tear back into it again and see if you can diagnose where the problem is happening. It best sounds like a bearing issue.. maybe it wasn't pressed in straight? Give it a try and let us know what else we can help you out on man! Thanks for watching.
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Hi, Thanks, I'm taking it back tomorrow. The fella better have some good answers for me considering how much I paid for the job to start with.
Dimitri Boyarski Yea, show him what its doing. Did you tell him about it and show him the problem it was having the first time?
Races. Included with... Huh...
The site I bought my bearings from, apparently sells the races separately, and didn't mention anything about it. Guess the bike is staying disassembled and in the way of everything for a while. Sigh.
How to replace bearing
Solid video but that Park race removal tool is trash. I bought one from yall and it does not stay on the lip of the race. Even bent the bottom of the legs outward to make sure they're well seated on the lip but they still pop off. I'm going to try putting something on the inside of the Park tools legs to prevent it from springing inward but would not recommend this tool.
Edit: if the tool keeps popping off the lip of the race, shove a 7/8 socket inside the tool to keep the legs from moving inward. Use something to hold the socket in the tool. I used a bearing race seal driver. Beat the shit out of the tool while pressing against the socket and the race will drop out without a fuss.
2:54 my 1992 yz steering stem is stuck and won't pull out. Guess I'll hammer the stem out
Nice, don’t have any of those tools. Neither do most people watching this
Well, lucky for you, we know a place where you and most people can buy all those tools...I can give you a hint if you need one :)
What size collet did u use to remove the bearing 4:19
You guys lost me when I realized you dont know how to pack a bearing.
@DEATH SQUAD I want chicky nuggys now
Im glad I'm not the only one who caught that
@DEATH SQUAD sometimes I use my nipples to put the sauce on my mcnuggets.