This is the best build video I've seen. I'll be using this for my build as well. As a total noob at soldering this is invaluable as I'm coming from zero experience to trying to build a dactyl
This was incredibly useful in showing me exactly how many annoying little things need solving in building the DM. I definitely don't have the tools, workspace, or money to deal with all of this. I'll just order one premade haha
The 2-cent side snips that come with 3d printers, one of the most useful tools you would never think to buy. I still find situations to use them, and i haven printed anything in about 2 years.
This is the bible of Dactyl manuform for newbies .. For Kailh switches do we need to take of the nubs (already printed) since non numb sides may leave space open for Box switches? Or Glue is good enough ?
I would just do a test fit in a few different switch holes and see. Depending on print settings, it may be tighter or looser, so just go with what feels right. Adding the glue is usually all that needs to be done, though.
Using your series mostly, as its live and has every little detail haha.... anyways. I have everything ordered including the coil tape, but what is used over it to insulate it? Would it be advisable to use electrical tape? or do you have a link to what you used? Thanks for doing these videos, I have never done anything like this, beyond maybe doing basic lighting type soldering for my car. This makes me feel very confident, and good about the project.
Polyimide High Temperature Resistant Tape, or labeled capton, just re referenced you part 2 and saw where you added it in later after the 2 rows of diodes lol. Either way, thanks a ton!
@@maintaineveryday4732 Happy that the videos were helpful. :) Yes, the only real reason I would recommend the kapton / polyimide tape over electrical tape is that the adhesive is much cleaner and less slimy than regular electrical tape, AND that you can see through it in case you need to identify a soldering mistake later on.
Lmao I was so sure you were swedish when i first clicked the video. Blue mat and yellow keyboard. Even the solder iron is blue and yellow. And while hovering on the video I saw the part at 3:05 which looks exactly like the swedish flag
I was wondering if I can use pro micro with USB C type directly instead of using adaptor cable? Is there difference in wiring on type c on pro micro? Thanks!
Great! I will show as much as possible, including the programming if you'd like to see that, too. Should have another episode out next week, but the firmware stuff is definitely a few episodes down the line. :)
I usually have the Hakko smoke eater going, but it ruins the sound recording completely so I'm just doing careful breath control in these videos. If I can find something around the office that is quieter than that jet engine, I'll put it in the room for the next one. Good lookin out though!
I might touch on underglow RGB, but per key backlighting on a build like this is super time consuming and since we're not using Amoeba PCBs for this one (which would make it a bit easier), it's unfortunately a lot more work than I have time to do. Thank you for the suggestion, though!
Im using a translucent case from crystalhand, so any kind of lighting would probably look fantastic from inside the case. I might order an arbitrary led strip and play around with it on a breadboard, though i would have no idea how to integrate with QMK
I'd recommend getting some WS2812 RGB LEDs. I bought a little pcb grid of them that can be snapped off to use them individually and those worked great, even just using three of them per side.
I found the same file you used on thingaverse and I'm getting mine professionally printed in resin with JLC PCB since I don't have a 3D printer. my question is. Did you have to change anything with the STL file or did you just print it?
You should be totally fine just printing it. No worries. If you want to look at another option, look up "Dactyl GX-16" on Thingiverse. That is my revised case design which makes a few things easier to assemble and use.
![Six Hundred Strike [EPIC: The Musical] Full Animatic](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zov6NXIAuow/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the best build video I've seen. I'll be using this for my build as well. As a total noob at soldering this is invaluable as I'm coming from zero experience to trying to build a dactyl
Good luck with your build. :)
This was incredibly useful in showing me exactly how many annoying little things need solving in building the DM. I definitely don't have the tools, workspace, or money to deal with all of this. I'll just order one premade haha
I have four finished ones going up on mechmarket soon. ;)
@Bloodthirsty I have one finished one on hand right now. Brown case with Gateron yellows.
@Bloodthirsty 300 USD including XDA keycaps, plus shipping. Ships from US.
@Bloodthirsty No worries.
The 2-cent side snips that come with 3d printers, one of the most useful tools you would never think to buy. I still find situations to use them, and i haven printed anything in about 2 years.
Totally. I keep a 10-pack of Platos on deck now. :)
I made an Iris time for this lovely keeb. Thank for detailed guide!!
Awesome guide! Is there a good parts list posted somewhere? I'd love to follow along!
Very interesting, thanks Kevin. Happy New Year,
This is the bible of Dactyl manuform for newbies .. For Kailh switches do we need to take of the nubs (already printed) since non numb sides may leave space open for Box switches? Or Glue is good enough ?
I would just do a test fit in a few different switch holes and see. Depending on print settings, it may be tighter or looser, so just go with what feels right. Adding the glue is usually all that needs to be done, though.
Using your series mostly, as its live and has every little detail haha.... anyways. I have everything ordered including the coil tape, but what is used over it to insulate it? Would it be advisable to use electrical tape? or do you have a link to what you used?
Thanks for doing these videos, I have never done anything like this, beyond maybe doing basic lighting type soldering for my car. This makes me feel very confident, and good about the project.
Polyimide High Temperature Resistant Tape, or labeled capton, just re referenced you part 2 and saw where you added it in later after the 2 rows of diodes lol. Either way, thanks a ton!
@@maintaineveryday4732 Happy that the videos were helpful. :) Yes, the only real reason I would recommend the kapton / polyimide tape over electrical tape is that the adhesive is much cleaner and less slimy than regular electrical tape, AND that you can see through it in case you need to identify a soldering mistake later on.
What 3d printer do you use and do you recommend using tape or wire for beginners.
Lmao I was so sure you were swedish when i first clicked the video. Blue mat and yellow keyboard. Even the solder iron is blue and yellow. And while hovering on the video I saw the part at 3:05 which looks exactly like the swedish flag
hahaha, I love this comment
I was wondering if I can use pro micro with USB C type directly instead of using adaptor cable? Is there difference in wiring on type c on pro micro? Thanks!
I think there are some case designs that put the microcontroller with the USB port facing out. Check out the Bastyl to start!
Thanks for this, I just got my 5x6 and am following along. Will you show the programing as well?
Great! I will show as much as possible, including the programming if you'd like to see that, too. Should have another episode out next week, but the firmware stuff is definitely a few episodes down the line. :)
Do these not have wrist supports? Can you help guide me know from where I could get 3D models with wrist support?
Search Thingiverse for "dactyl manuform" and you will see several styles of wrist rests in the results.
lol cool I'm about to build one of these on monday
You have a lot of those fumes frifting directly at you. A cheap 20$ lasko fan on amazon would fix that issue
I usually have the Hakko smoke eater going, but it ruins the sound recording completely so I'm just doing careful breath control in these videos. If I can find something around the office that is quieter than that jet engine, I'll put it in the room for the next one. Good lookin out though!
once its all finished, could u show how to add in per key backlighting, if you know how? or any kind of backlighting?
I might touch on underglow RGB, but per key backlighting on a build like this is super time consuming and since we're not using Amoeba PCBs for this one (which would make it a bit easier), it's unfortunately a lot more work than I have time to do. Thank you for the suggestion, though!
@@Eckavolts alright thanks. Rgb underlighting would be cool as well. This is my first build, figured id ask since im used to the ergodox EZ
Im using a translucent case from crystalhand, so any kind of lighting would probably look fantastic from inside the case. I might order an arbitrary led strip and play around with it on a breadboard, though i would have no idea how to integrate with QMK
I'd recommend getting some WS2812 RGB LEDs. I bought a little pcb grid of them that can be snapped off to use them individually and those worked great, even just using three of them per side.
Yea i just found the qmk documentation which has all the supported lights.
beta.docs.qmk.fm/features/feature_rgblight
May I ask what kinds of ingredients are used for making this 3D print?
This is just regular Hatchbox PLA.
37:23 wise advise
I found the same file you used on thingaverse and I'm getting mine professionally printed in resin with JLC PCB since I don't have a 3D printer. my question is. Did you have to change anything with the STL file or did you just print it?
You should be totally fine just printing it. No worries. If you want to look at another option, look up "Dactyl GX-16" on Thingiverse. That is my revised case design which makes a few things easier to assemble and use.
@@Eckavolts thank you so much. Your videos have been very helpful. I can’t find the Dactyl GX-16
@@lanchesternaanyane www.thingiverse.com/thing:4372836
Quite the project.
45:10 : "I always miss one, and then have to heat up the hot glue gun again"
43:10, 2 minutes ago : *only does one side of the switch*
hahahaha
What are your print settings? Mine has problems fitting the keys
how much does it cost you to build one and how much do you sell them for
Cost varies depending on where you're located and who you order parts from. My price is around 300 for an average build without keycaps.
I can't be bothered with that finicky tape. Magnet wire would be a much easier choice.
You need to use uncoated wire, though, or it will never solder correctly.