As much as I am buffled with how little climbers know about strength training and nutrition compared to e.g. science-based bodybuilders, I find lattice advice constantly very high quality. Keep it up
so nice to hear some educated data about vegan protein intake from climbing sources on youtube, was really afraid that keto is taking over within the climbing community...
I just had the best session ever (sent 4 moonboard projects). For the first time, I forgot to have breakfast and didn't fuel throughout the session. No dips in performance. After, I realised that I had forgotten to eat. How?????
you had an amazing day and could compensate I guess. Also don't forget digestion is a process that takes energy. So how rich would your breakfast usually be? What would you eat and how long before the exercise? So many factors...
I would think your available energy is cumulmative from the previous few days not just that day. Being lighter helps, and as chaosengine said digestion requires blood - which can make you feel lethargic when you want to climb. I'd assume in the short term (24-48hours) eating less is going to be beneficial for performance (if you have eaten well for the past 3-5 days and have adequate glycogen stores), but detrimental for training stimulus and recovery in the long run. If you eat less I believe you have increased levels of cortisol while you train (further than normal well-fed training - it will always be elevated while doing something physically hard as I understand it), which allows you to perform but makes for a larger recovery debt. So probably viable for one-off projects but not a good idea for general training/climbing. Alex Huber was renowned for eating very little a day or two before his hardest ascents, theres a magnus midtbo video where he talks about it. All that said, I have the same questions about my own body when I eat well, sleep well, feel great and go out climbing and fail miserably, then another time go feeling awful, hungover, tired, weak and send harder stuff. Some days are just good days I think!
Just a newbie speculating here, but it seems like not having food before/during session noticeably impacts recovery, because the micro-damage to the muscles has less protein to start being re-built in time and lack of glucose also contributes as muscle cells are dying of starvation.
About the protein synthesis window, I'm a bit confused because I've read that it doesn't really matter as long as your protein intake is sufficent at the end of the day ?
i had been climbing for about 3 years then i broke my ankle falling and right when i got back i pulled my abdomen and i took a very long break after that and now i have finally started back so the 4th question was very helpful to me
Fish! I'm on this canned Sardines / Makerel hype train that I just can't shake. Loads of protein, low on the food chain, abundant in the environment and low in mercury.
As a veggie I try and drink at least two protein shakes a day. As that gets boring quite fast, could you recommend veggie protein packed meals to get everything in? I am bouldering every second day right now :)
An example of my usual meals with 20+ grams of protein intake per meal, as a vegan rock and ice climber: Breakfast basics: Breakfast beverage - Usually a coffee or matcha latte using 1 cup of soy milk - 8 grams of protein to start Smoothie with mix of frozen bananas, soy milk, flax seeds and pumpkin seeds or nut butter ... easily 25 grams of protein. Toast - 2 pieces of wheat toast (10 grams protein) - 2 tbsp of any nut or seed butter (8 grams) - Sweet fruits on top, eg mashed banana, dates Oatmeal - 1 cup oats (12 grams) - 2 tbsp, flax, or hemp seeds (6 grams) - Fruit, berries, and/or nut butter (+8 grams) ... tip: overnight oats are convenient Scrambled tofu and veggies - Scrambled seasoned tofu (15-25 grams) - Can add beans too (+12 grams per 1/2 can) - 1-2 tbsp of nutritional yeast (8-12 grams) Bagel sandwich - Whole wheat bagel (10 grams) - Sautéed and seasoned tofu patty (15-25 grams) - Avocado, onion, tomato, lettuce, sauce of choice ... ketchup, hot sauce, plant based cheese, etc Lunch - Whole wheat wraps or sandwiches with mix of rice, beans, veggies, etc... usually plays out to be about 20+ grams of protein. Add nutritional yeast (8-12g per 2tbsp) and tahini (9g per 2 tbsp) as delicious and protein rich condiments. - Power bowls made with mix of sauce, rice, beans / lentils / chickpeas / or tofu, greens, cooked veggies - Middle eastern bowl of rice, sautéed or baked chickpeas, cucumber, tahini, etc... - Indian or a Thai curry with lentils or tofu and veggies... Dinner varieties and options are endless. Check out some of the RUclips channels on high protein easy vegan meals. Tricks I keep in mind: - Nutritional yeast, which is incredibly nutritious and high protein with 8-12 grams per 2 tbsp and goes great on pretty much everything - Legumes (lentils chickpeas beans tofu and tempeh) are high protein, usually upwards of 12-15 grams per 1/2 can. They are balanced with remainder of calories mostly complex carbohydrates - perfect fuel mix. - Soy milk is easy to mix into your smoothies, coffee or matcha lattes. 8 grams per cup. Hope this helps
About the mid-session carb intake, is there a difference between drinks and snacks? Sometimes I find it difficult to eat when I'm really warmed up and in sports mode, and a cool, sugary drink just feels like the more natural choice then.
You can use drinks as well if it‘s just about to getting your bloodsugar up again. Look for isotonic sportdrinks if you can, but Coke, Sprite etc. will do it as well tbh. (E.g. That‘s what marathonians are drinking during their runs)
@@Simonderbaba Ok thanks, that's reassuring to hear. I was always a bit unsure whether there may be some reason not to use these kinds of drinks because I don't see many people in the gym doing it.
This is great! I never quite understood what was meant by legumes and grains being incomplete proteins. Mina’s explanation is really simple and makes perfect sense! I wonder what her thoughts are on intermittent fasting, particularly on timing the fasting/fueling windows around one’s training/climbing sessions.
Doesn’t that MacNaughton et al 2016 study show that 40g protein intake resulted in superior MPS in individuals that participated in whole body resistance training?
🐱👤 Low-fat pot together with flaxseed oil is very healthy and high protein! It think it is a misunderstanding, that vegan food has very low proteins. Most food has 13-15 g protein per 100g. Nuts, fish and meat have more (20 - 25g). I personally add some protein shakes, because I don't want to eat so much (carbs and fat). .
Water weight is temporary, at most two kilos, and only associated with the loading phase. To avoid this, just skip loading and take the maintenance dose every day - it will get you to the same levels of creatine stores within a month. Creatine is a no-brainer for almost any sport since it's cheap, has no adverse effects and aids in recovery. More climbing specifically, there are a few rather new studies out on the influence of creatine on recovery from tendinopathy, and it looks rather promising. Also, creatine improves maximum strength efforts, which especially for bouldering is a good thing :)
Acid O' Philus I like it. I put on a bit of bulk and feel stronger. I put on about 3 pounds while I take it and it falls off a few days after I stop. That’s about 2% of my body weight of swing.
We hear about the recommended or optimal level of protein, but what can go wrong if you go over? 1.5g/kg for a sport climber and 1.8g/kg for boulderers. If a sport climber consumes 1.8g/kg or higher (consistently), what's wrong with that? That seems like so minimal a difference.
It’s not really bad it’s just unnecessary. Eating a huge amount of protein is difficult and also in the long term probably not very healthy for your kidneys and gut. Bodybuilders often quote a 1g/lb which is more than what is quoted here so can’t be that bad.
No negatives realy as long as you do have healthy kidneys, no real benefit either. As long as your high protein intake does not lead to an unhealthy deacrease in carbs and fats that is.
I think it's because the ration between mass and weight, for climbers, it's not always benefitial to gain mass, cause you will also gain weight, specially for sport climbers.
I find fasting helpful for weight control as well as other puported benefits, but wd love to know what Lattice or anyone else thinks about it wrt training. (I would train 2 to 3 times a week and not fast the morning after a session. I would do 16 hour fasts 2 to 4 times a week). Obviously it limits the ability to spread protein intake in over the day.
I fast and train. I find it is good for calorie control. But also has the added benefit of helping train mental toughness and managing mental fatigue. Especially when training fasted.
Depends on the area you are lacking in. If you could use some sportspecific endurance and metabolic capacity you might just benefit from ropeclimbing more, but if your strength is what holds you back weighted pullups in the ranges of 3-15 repetions will help you more. However, you can only come so far with doing one of these so I would advice on shifting your training focus from capacity to hypertrophy to strengh over several months of training.
As far as those are concerned there are realy just minimal values here with fat not going lower than 1g/kg of bodymass and and carbs not going underneath 10% of your daily caloric intake. I would however advice to go for topping out you calories with carbs and keeping your fat intake towards the lower end, as there seem to be several benefits to a high carb diet for athletes.
For those in the US, a ‘flapjack’ is not a pancake, it’s similar to a granola bar but made from oats.
i.imgur.com/HIP7b6T.jpg
Super sweet sugar blocks
Ok, yeah that makes sense
Ohhh, yeah that makes more sense
As much as I am buffled with how little climbers know about strength training and nutrition compared to e.g. science-based bodybuilders, I find lattice advice constantly very high quality. Keep it up
The strongest people in the world don't know how to strength train or eat well... 🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍 Ok mate! Science based body builders (ped heads) 🤣🤣
@@ashhodson2063 Are you suggesting science based weightlifting is bullshit and they all take T? how ignorant
@@eddiefinlaw8045 basically yeah. Eat it.
@@ashhodson2063 lmao I certainly won't stop you from being incredibly stupid
@@ashhodson2063 go tell me Jeff Nippard is roided and doesn't know what he's talking about.
i ate taco bell while watching this.
Haha! Taco in moderation is never an issue :-D
at least eat chipotle instead
Taco bell is my go to after a climbing sesh. Only slightly ashamed lol
It's got dairy, veggies, meat, grains I don't see what's wrong here.
Wow, same.
omg she's wearing crocs
so nice to hear some educated data about vegan protein intake from climbing sources on youtube, was really afraid that keto is taking over within the climbing community...
I just had the best session ever (sent 4 moonboard projects). For the first time, I forgot to have breakfast and didn't fuel throughout the session. No dips in performance. After, I realised that I had forgotten to eat. How?????
you had an amazing day and could compensate I guess. Also don't forget digestion is a process that takes energy. So how rich would your breakfast usually be? What would you eat and how long before the exercise? So many factors...
I would think your available energy is cumulmative from the previous few days not just that day. Being lighter helps, and as chaosengine said digestion requires blood - which can make you feel lethargic when you want to climb. I'd assume in the short term (24-48hours) eating less is going to be beneficial for performance (if you have eaten well for the past 3-5 days and have adequate glycogen stores), but detrimental for training stimulus and recovery in the long run. If you eat less I believe you have increased levels of cortisol while you train (further than normal well-fed training - it will always be elevated while doing something physically hard as I understand it), which allows you to perform but makes for a larger recovery debt.
So probably viable for one-off projects but not a good idea for general training/climbing. Alex Huber was renowned for eating very little a day or two before his hardest ascents, theres a magnus midtbo video where he talks about it.
All that said, I have the same questions about my own body when I eat well, sleep well, feel great and go out climbing and fail miserably, then another time go feeling awful, hungover, tired, weak and send harder stuff. Some days are just good days I think!
Just a newbie speculating here, but it seems like not having food before/during session noticeably impacts recovery, because the micro-damage to the muscles has less protein to start being re-built in time and lack of glucose also contributes as muscle cells are dying of starvation.
Shout out to the vegan crushers 😤
Word!
Check out rice and lentil recipes to get your bean + grain combo…
About the protein synthesis window, I'm a bit confused because I've read that it doesn't really matter as long as your protein intake is sufficent at the end of the day ?
It's basically the same thing they said.
I've been looking for a video like this for so long! This was so helpful.
i had been climbing for about 3 years then i broke my ankle falling and right when i got back i pulled my abdomen and i took a very long break after that and now i have finally started back so the 4th question was very helpful to me
Fish! I'm on this canned Sardines / Makerel hype train that I just can't shake. Loads of protein, low on the food chain, abundant in the environment and low in mercury.
ElevATP with B12 for cell regeneration
I like eggs
I like turtles.
I like you.
As a veggie I try and drink at least two protein shakes a day. As that gets boring quite fast, could you recommend veggie protein packed meals to get everything in? I am bouldering every second day right now :)
An example of my usual meals with 20+ grams of protein intake per meal, as a vegan rock and ice climber:
Breakfast basics:
Breakfast beverage
- Usually a coffee or matcha latte using 1 cup of soy milk - 8 grams of protein to start
Smoothie with mix of frozen bananas, soy milk, flax seeds and pumpkin seeds or nut butter ... easily 25 grams of protein.
Toast
- 2 pieces of wheat toast (10 grams protein)
- 2 tbsp of any nut or seed butter (8 grams)
- Sweet fruits on top, eg mashed banana, dates
Oatmeal
- 1 cup oats (12 grams)
- 2 tbsp, flax, or hemp seeds (6 grams)
- Fruit, berries, and/or nut butter (+8 grams)
... tip: overnight oats are convenient
Scrambled tofu and veggies
- Scrambled seasoned tofu (15-25 grams)
- Can add beans too (+12 grams per 1/2 can)
- 1-2 tbsp of nutritional yeast (8-12 grams)
Bagel sandwich
- Whole wheat bagel (10 grams)
- Sautéed and seasoned tofu patty (15-25 grams)
- Avocado, onion, tomato, lettuce, sauce of choice ... ketchup, hot sauce, plant based cheese, etc
Lunch
- Whole wheat wraps or sandwiches with mix of rice, beans, veggies, etc... usually plays out to be about 20+ grams of protein. Add nutritional yeast (8-12g per 2tbsp) and tahini (9g per 2 tbsp) as delicious and protein rich condiments.
- Power bowls made with mix of sauce, rice, beans / lentils / chickpeas / or tofu, greens, cooked veggies
- Middle eastern bowl of rice, sautéed or baked chickpeas, cucumber, tahini, etc...
- Indian or a Thai curry with lentils or tofu and veggies...
Dinner varieties and options are endless. Check out some of the RUclips channels on high protein easy vegan meals.
Tricks I keep in mind:
- Nutritional yeast, which is incredibly nutritious and high protein with 8-12 grams per 2 tbsp and goes great on pretty much everything
- Legumes (lentils chickpeas beans tofu and tempeh) are high protein, usually upwards of 12-15 grams per 1/2 can. They are balanced with remainder of calories mostly complex carbohydrates - perfect fuel mix.
- Soy milk is easy to mix into your smoothies, coffee or matcha lattes. 8 grams per cup.
Hope this helps
@@Scott-ec5uy Awesome! Thanks very much!
Thank you :))
OIFenrirOI also, check out Simnett Nutrition channel on RUclips! Great plant based high protein recipes
@@Scott-ec5uy nice one Scott. Great tips. I had no idea nutritional yeast was so high on protein
Kristen Schaal ladies and gentlemen.
Mina is so smart!
Interesting! Keep it up!
About the mid-session carb intake, is there a difference between drinks and snacks? Sometimes I find it difficult to eat when I'm really warmed up and in sports mode, and a cool, sugary drink just feels like the more natural choice then.
You can use drinks as well if it‘s just about to getting your bloodsugar up again. Look for isotonic sportdrinks if you can, but Coke, Sprite etc. will do it as well tbh. (E.g. That‘s what marathonians are drinking during their runs)
@@Simonderbaba Ok thanks, that's reassuring to hear. I was always a bit unsure whether there may be some reason not to use these kinds of drinks because I don't see many people in the gym doing it.
@@martinr113 just make sure to control how much carbs/sugar you're consuming
In México "flapjack" its a cartoon xD.. Bar of oat maybe..
Ah really?! 😂
This is great! I never quite understood what was meant by legumes and grains being incomplete proteins. Mina’s explanation is really simple and makes perfect sense! I wonder what her thoughts are on intermittent fasting, particularly on timing the fasting/fueling windows around one’s training/climbing sessions.
Doesn’t that MacNaughton et al 2016 study show that 40g protein intake resulted in superior MPS in individuals that participated in whole body resistance training?
🐱👤 Low-fat pot together with flaxseed oil is very healthy and high protein!
It think it is a misunderstanding, that vegan food has very low proteins.
Most food has 13-15 g protein per 100g. Nuts, fish and meat have more (20 - 25g).
I personally add some protein shakes, because I don't want to eat so much (carbs and fat).
.
Brocken down sugar handful of sour patch kids
What are your thoughts on taking creatine as a climber (bouldering specifically)?
Leonidas Tenderloins in my experience I put on way too much water weight and it offset the potential benefit. Ymmv
Water weight is temporary, at most two kilos, and only associated with the loading phase. To avoid this, just skip loading and take the maintenance dose every day - it will get you to the same levels of creatine stores within a month. Creatine is a no-brainer for almost any sport since it's cheap, has no adverse effects and aids in recovery. More climbing specifically, there are a few rather new studies out on the influence of creatine on recovery from tendinopathy, and it looks rather promising. Also, creatine improves maximum strength efforts, which especially for bouldering is a good thing :)
Acid O' Philus I like it. I put on a bit of bulk and feel stronger. I put on about 3 pounds while I take it and it falls off a few days after I stop. That’s about 2% of my body weight of swing.
We hear about the recommended or optimal level of protein, but what can go wrong if you go over? 1.5g/kg for a sport climber and 1.8g/kg for boulderers. If a sport climber consumes 1.8g/kg or higher (consistently), what's wrong with that? That seems like so minimal a difference.
It’s not really bad it’s just unnecessary. Eating a huge amount of protein is difficult and also in the long term probably not very healthy for your kidneys and gut. Bodybuilders often quote a 1g/lb which is more than what is quoted here so can’t be that bad.
No negatives realy as long as you do have healthy kidneys, no real benefit either. As long as your high protein intake does not lead to an unhealthy deacrease in carbs and fats that is.
I think it's because the ration between mass and weight, for climbers, it's not always benefitial to gain mass, cause you will also gain weight, specially for sport climbers.
Hmmm
I find fasting helpful for weight control as well as other puported benefits, but wd love to know what Lattice or anyone else thinks about it wrt training. (I would train 2 to 3 times a week and not fast the morning after a session. I would do 16 hour fasts 2 to 4 times a week). Obviously it limits the ability to spread protein intake in over the day.
I fast and train. I find it is good for calorie control. But also has the added benefit of helping train mental toughness and managing mental fatigue. Especially when training fasted.
Is rope climbing good for a climber or are weighted pull ups better option?
Depends on the area you are lacking in. If you could use some sportspecific endurance and metabolic capacity you might just benefit from ropeclimbing more, but if your strength is what holds you back weighted pullups in the ranges of 3-15 repetions will help you more. However, you can only come so far with doing one of these so I would advice on shifting your training focus from capacity to hypertrophy to strengh over several months of training.
Yess, i was looking foward to this for soo long!! Huge ups from São Paulo.
Aleeee, ¿te acuerdas de mí? Nos conocimos en Bloc E en México :D
@@joshualara4612 Claro que si maquina, que pedo bro?! Sigues estudiando entonces, que bueno
Getting 1.5-1.8g protein per KG of bodyweight, what should we be targeting for carbs & fat? Is there any quick maths here?
As far as those are concerned there are realy just minimal values here with fat not going lower than 1g/kg of bodymass and and carbs not going underneath 10% of your daily caloric intake. I would however advice to go for topping out you calories with carbs and keeping your fat intake towards the lower end, as there seem to be several benefits to a high carb diet for athletes.
The answer is vegan
An element of fasting and rest should be incorporated.
Fantastic video!!!
What about paleo for climbers??
Where is the 1,5m distance? 2nd wave is coming.
Women? This video is the most sexist thing I've ever seen
Assuming this is a joke 😂 if not, ask yourself how often you comment about sexism on videos purely about and for cis white men... 💁🏻♂️
@@zoecartlidge I don't know what a cis is, but I'd say almost everyday.
Flapjacks are amazing!