The Secret to Vibrant Botanical Prints: Mordants vs. Modifiers
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- In botanical printing mordants are important chemicals that help make plant prints more permanent. In this video I talk about mordants I use when I print, and sort out some confusion about other solutions that are also commonly found in the botanical printing world, including rust water and soy milk.
Learn more about my Heat Press Success Botanical Printing course: www.janedunnew...
Another great video on using the heat press for botanical printing: • Creating Botanical Pri...
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Thank you. As a beginner I've found this very informative.
I really like your matter of fact presentation. Facts matter.
Thanks, Heather. I agree.
I’m glad I watched this . I tried the rust version and did not like the result. But it was fun to try.
I have been using your book for a couple of years, never realized you had a youtube channel. As someone trained in historic preservation, I am continually dismayed by many of the eco-printing videos I see. I have had really wonderful results by following the book. I live in South Carolina and Spanish moss turns out to be one of the most amazing prints. I have been steaming bundles, but I'm thinking of buying a press. Thanks for your clear instruction and beautiful work.
You are very kind. I think it is important to recognize the enthusiasm of all those RUclips "presenters" who discover a process, work with it for a period of time, and then want to share their results. Sometimes it is for the love of the process, and sometimes it is because they would love to gain the attention that comes with the territory. That's all understandable and ok. As an artist who has also been a teacher for many years, my eye is on making videos that give enough information that they are worth watching and are helpful. For me, that means testing the results before i go public, but also revealing when I don't know all there is to know! It's a fine balance and other artists I find most inspiring on RUclips are the ones who are humble, willing to show their failures as well as their successes and then to talk openly about the frustrations of a good plan gone wrong!! THAT'S REAL. And if nothing else, I am about being real.
I can't believe that you sent such a thoughtful reply. I feel like I should frame it. Honestly I am delighted to have heard from you because I found your book a beacon in the sea of misinformation. @@JaneDunnewold
Thank you, I’m new at eco printing … very helpful information 😊
Your explanations are always so clear. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Very good Jane, fantastic explanation
Just bought your book. Love it.
Thanks! I hope it is helpful.
Very informative, Thanks for sharing!!! Subscribed!!!
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you for the clarity!
Absolutely!!
Thanks Jane for your insight. I have avoided using iron since I first became aware of its use many years ago, for the reasons you outlined. I cannot locate where the notification of your September Workshop is to be found.
You are welcome! Read more about the upcoming online class here ---> www.janedunnewold.com/heatpress.
Hi, I'm newbie,. your information is so clear to me, especially about the scientific reason of using mordant, binder and modifier,. Thank you.. I got some questions,. so if you not using mordant to "open" the cellulose fiber and using soy milk as a coating to bind the color/dye,. how long does it lasts for the color to stay on that fiber/ coated fiber. How does it compare to mordant with aluminum potassium sulfate? Thank you
I don't have a definitive answer but I have prints that are seven years old and the color is still stable.
Hi Jane, what is you AA and water ratio? Ferrous sulfate also.
1 Tablespoon to a quart of water for both. Up it if you need to.
Great information! Thank you!💚
Thanks for watching!
Excellent
Hello,
you stated at 6:12 that rust water is not good for fabric can you expand more on this whether the context isto actually wear the fabric for human use or just for holding the pigment in fabric in general ?Thank you
No matter where it is used eventually it will lead to disintegration of the cloth. Might be ok from an aesthetic standpoint but not wise for anything that will be sold.
Thank you so much. Very informative!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you
You're welcome
I saw a video awhile ago now, where the lady, Trudi Pollard, boiled her fabrics in a 7.0 ph soap, and soda ash. Doing it that way brought out chemicals used in treating the fabric and turned the color of the water brown. She said laundering doesn't work because the water isn't hot enough. Have you heard of this method? She was using cotton in the video
It couldn't hurt but I have never had to do that. Soda ash worked fine as a pre-wash.
Is there a time limit as to how long you've treated fabric with soy milk and when you use it for eco printing or natural dyeing?
I wouldn't wait. Soy milk spoils easily.
Do you use the soy as well as the AA together?. Also what about copper mordant?
either soy or AA, not both.
Hi. May I know the name of the book mentioned in one if the comments?
I believe it was Best of Both Worlds.
Thank you so much!
Glad it helped!
Do you mordant the fabric before or after you print?
Before.
Can you clarify the Aluminum Acetate (AA) formula?
I’m so literal that I got confused with your vide.
Is this correct?
AA = 50% Aluminum Potassium Sulfate + 50% Sodium Acetate
yes, that's right.
Whether vinegar is good mordant for cotton?
No. It doesn't work at all.
🌞🌞🌞
Lemon juice and vinegar are not mordants
They are modfiers, although when fiber reactive dye is used with botanical printing, vinegar is, in fact, the equivalent of a mordant.
@@JaneDunnewold how do you mordant with vinegar?