Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is a link to the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in the videos- amzn.to/2av8s3q Here is the link to the Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka Here is a link for the Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper amzn.to/2dGTj2V Other tool links can be found in the video description section. ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.
the last few days we have had temperatures around 40 and 50's here in Louisiana, my gas heather furnace, was not coming on, checked some of the voltages, , CLEANED the ignitor AND A SECONDARY IGNITOR SENSOR, with a fine fine sand paper, then cleaned bot it with a rag, reinstall them and the furnace came on as its supposed to, Thank you for the lecture and explanations, it sure worked. Thank you for your expertise and help.
Just wanted to correct you on something you say here and in other videos. While it is true that the module detects the presence of a flame by passing a current through the flame-it is not detected by measuring current through the ground wire. Since all grounds are tied together, both with wires and by the metal chassis, there’s no way to measure ground current since there are multiple paths. It can only be measured on the “hot” side, meaning the current that’s flowing through the sensor wire. There’s probably an internal resistor in series with the sensor wire and the voltage drop across the resistor is directly proportional to the current.
Very clear video. Question: should the PV to MV/PV voltage reading remain 24v after the MV comes on? Mine does. All other circuits work and read correctly. I just retrofitted a Honeywell/Resideo Y8610U intermittent pilot ignition kit to an AWI162 Crown boiler with a standing pilot. I left the vent damper hooked up to the original transformer, and only used the TH and TR leads from the original to hook into the new module at the TH-W and 24(gnd) terminals. I did not use the 24v terminal on the module. I grounded to both the gas valve and pilot bracket.
I just happened to cross this video and thought my prayers were answered in that I might be able to get in touch with the company I'm up in Connecticut I'm a 71 year old retired Leo who installed this exact unit on my old Dayton 3E 405 heater that I've had in my garage for nearly 40 years I went through the trouble of this installation because in my older years I can no longer light the standing pilot I've had absolutely nothing but headaches for 2 months now no one seems to know the answer but this particular video begins an explanation of the system your company seems amazing is there any way that I could explain in detail to someone is there a contact thank you
Does the flame rod just go bad? Mine is in the flame well, very red hot then gas is just cut off and boiler stops heating. It will heat for about 90 seconds.
I've been troubleshooting one of these and having zero luck. The original controller sparked, sensed the flame, then turned off the pilot valve after about 15 seconds (no codes flashed.) I bought a controller off eBay, "removed from working equipment, " and it worked at first, then went into a mode where it would spark, sense the flame, all heartbeat flashes fine, then after 90 seconds shut off with a flash code of 6 -2 . Never got a main burner open or voltage on the MV terminal. The eBay guy was kind enough to send me a second device but it does the same thing, leading me to believe that it's not the module. However, everything else in the furnace appears fine. When it lights off the pilot, I can apply 24V to the main burner lead and it fires off just fine. I'd like to clean the sense rod just to be sure it's not that, but it's virtually inaccessible, and I don't really want to tear the whole assembly apart for something that "may" help. I'd appreciate any suggestions/advice.
Great video thank you. I've ran into these on the carrier RTU package units KLA series. The latest one I worked on the 24v was coming off from what I believe was a relay wasn't sure what that was but there was no 24v coming out have you ever ran into those? and would it matter if I just pulled the 24v volts from the transformer ?
The problem with this version is that when it gets a 24v signal the heat sequence will turn on. There is another type with a vent damper plug and that one does need 24v all the time when using the vent damper and has a separate 24v terminal to turn the heat sequence on. The relay may have been powered from the 24v heat signal wire with safeties to open if there are any problems. The question is why it is there. You would have to reverse engineer it and read the wiring schematic diagram to figure out why it is there. For furnaces there is always a safety reason. For ac's I find some bad designs every once in a while. Thanks A VM!
On an ancient Dayton 3E369 Fuel Trimmer there is no 3rd wire GV MV/PV common return lead and if there was it is not present now. You do not include a thermostat link. Where would the TH red and white leads connect? You connect directly to the TR so I would surmise the TH red would connect directly to the TR red (hot) and the TH white would connect to the Robertshaw TH. That would leave the grounded RS TR terminal to piggyback the MP/PV common return ground to the TR white common, right?
Merry Christmas! I have a Honeywell S8610U spark ignitor control. It burns the 24v transformer. I replaced the transformer, and I got 8 flash error code on this control, which means the low voltage input has problem per instruction. I checked the low voltage wire (to TH-W) and found it is grounded. When I pull off the burner ground wire (GND), the low voltage wire does not ground any more. Does this mean the gas ignitor control is bad? Thank you.
thanks for the great video, would you please let me know what is the parts number of the pilot assembly that you are showing on the video, and will it fit on furnace of lennox whisper heat model no : sp 745 or help me to get the aforesaid OME part number, that I urgently needed. thank you GOD BLESS YOU.
Lately, my intermittent spark ignitor is having trouble igniting the gas so I had to manually light it to get the furnace going. Once lit, it will work for awhile but then it returns to not working normal again. Now, does it mean I got a bad ignitor and needs to replace it? I clean the rod and ignitor with steel wool once last year and it works good but this year it is having the problems I had just described above. Thanks
I’ve got a Robertshaw SP 745 on a single rod setup. I’m able to get 24v reading at TR + TH and also TH + PV/MV however when I turn on my wall switch the ignition usually does nothing or sparks the rod for about 5-10 seconds the stops. We’ve been able to start the fireplace about 1 out of 100 times this year. Any idea what could be wrong or how we can troubleshoot?
Great video, but I still have a question about the ignition operation. Once the igniter lights the gas, and the main gas is kicked on and the fan is running should the separate gas line to the igniter (PV) shut off? My igniter (PV) gas stays on after the main gas (MV) is running and the system is working, it seems to be taking a toll on the igniter itself.
I have a problem like that, gas is coming out but not the spark at all pilot stays on for a short time and goes off fan goes on only getting cold air so where i need to start question the limit switch doesn't have nothing to do with this?nor the pressure valve?help pls.
So I'm having issues with my boiler, once turned on all operations work fine I have spark, pilot and then ignition, but once boiler gets to temp and shuts down and then tried to refire the spark happens but no pilot, boiler shuts down, once I flip the switch on and off the boiler fires right away, any info would be great thanks
I think you should go through local vendors and set up an account for actual HVACR equipment because of warranty issues, scratches, dents, shipping time, as well as over pricing. Tools and parts are different if you can find a better price. Thanks
Yes I mean't the board is bad. I said the board is the culprit, meaning it was the reason the system is not working. Thanks and I should have used different wording!
My spark module liote the pilot and than the main flame. And then runs for 30 seconds with flame on and than it goes out. Flame sensor has been cleaned and all terminals checked. What could this be?
Check the plenum heat sensor that senses the heat near the heat exchanger, also follow the ground wire back to the module and make sure it is making good contact at the gnd to the module, thanks
Really? Rather than taking from the 120v coming into the ignition box directly to the ignitor , it takes 24v to a transformer in the box and steps to 6-12 thousand volts?
I spark it works it lights the pilot, the burner starts but the spark continues to work anyway, it stops about a minute later but it starts again and so on and after a while the
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is a link to the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in the videos- amzn.to/2av8s3q
Here is the link to the Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka
Here is a link for the Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z
Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper amzn.to/2dGTj2V
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.
the last few days we have had temperatures around 40 and 50's here in Louisiana, my gas heather furnace, was not coming on, checked some of the voltages, , CLEANED the ignitor AND A SECONDARY IGNITOR SENSOR, with a fine fine sand paper, then cleaned bot it with a rag, reinstall them and the furnace came on as its supposed to, Thank you for the lecture and explanations, it sure worked. Thank you for your expertise and help.
Craig you are doing the Lords work my man!!!
Another brilliant explanation on how to trouble shoot this system... Thank you for your expertise, and simple explanation.
Just wanted to correct you on something you say here and in other videos. While it is true that the module detects the presence of a flame by passing a current through the flame-it is not detected by measuring current through the ground wire. Since all grounds are tied together, both with wires and by the metal chassis, there’s no way to measure ground current since there are multiple paths. It can only be measured on the “hot” side, meaning the current that’s flowing through the sensor wire. There’s probably an internal resistor in series with the sensor wire and the voltage drop across the resistor is directly proportional to the current.
Excellent explanation. I don’t understand why someone will give a thumb down. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Ha ha Thanks Felix!
They do that because are retarded damage brain
Felix Trejo es porque están idiotas
An excellent video with an excellent explanation of the flame sensor system...My thanks to the gent doing this.
Thanks Vern!
YOU ARE A BLESSING TO THE WORLD
there is a board in that ignition module so you are correct and you make an excellent video.
Thanks melvin292!
Great interpretation, super great teacher
Great video. Thanks again.
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent
Thanks for your service
God bless
Thanks! May The Lord Bless You Too Felipe!
Very nice video. Big thumbs up.
Thanks DC Rickerson!
Thank you! Heck of a teacher!
Thanks eric4467!
Very clear video. Question: should the PV to MV/PV voltage reading remain 24v after the MV comes on? Mine does. All other circuits work and read correctly. I just retrofitted a Honeywell/Resideo Y8610U intermittent pilot ignition kit to an AWI162 Crown boiler with a standing pilot. I left the vent damper hooked up to the original transformer, and only used the TH and TR leads from the original to hook into the new module at the TH-W and 24(gnd) terminals. I did not use the 24v terminal on the module. I grounded to both the gas valve and pilot bracket.
Great video very informative 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Saeed!
Great video, thanks for posting.
Thanks Phillip Sierra!
Excellent explenation. Thank you
Thanks Yilmaz!
Super informative
Thanks!
I just happened to cross this video and thought my prayers were answered in that I might be able to get in touch with the company I'm up in Connecticut I'm a 71 year old retired Leo who installed this exact unit on my old Dayton 3E 405 heater that I've had in my garage for nearly 40 years I went through the trouble of this installation because in my older years I can no longer light the standing pilot I've had absolutely nothing but headaches for 2 months now no one seems to know the answer but this particular video begins an explanation of the system your company seems amazing is there any way that I could explain in detail to someone is there a contact thank you
awesome video thanks for the training
Thanks Anthony Rodriguez!
Great video
Thanks Phillip Joy!
What controls your blower motor and inducer fan when using a spark ignite module? Do you have a circuit board?
I am considering replacing an old standby pilot with an intermittent pilot. Should I consider the BTU numbers when I choose the gas valve? Thanks!
Does the flame rod just go bad? Mine is in the flame well, very red hot then gas is just cut off and boiler stops heating. It will heat for about 90 seconds.
I've been troubleshooting one of these and having zero luck. The original controller sparked, sensed the flame, then turned off the pilot valve after about 15 seconds (no codes flashed.) I bought a controller off eBay, "removed from working equipment, " and it worked at first, then went into a mode where it would spark, sense the flame, all heartbeat flashes fine, then after 90 seconds shut off with a flash code of 6 -2 . Never got a main burner open or voltage on the MV terminal. The eBay guy was kind enough to send me a second device but it does the same thing, leading me to believe that it's not the module. However, everything else in the furnace appears fine. When it lights off the pilot, I can apply 24V to the main burner lead and it fires off just fine. I'd like to clean the sense rod just to be sure it's not that, but it's virtually inaccessible, and I don't really want to tear the whole assembly apart for something that "may" help. I'd appreciate any suggestions/advice.
good information ...
Thanks!
Great video thank you.
I've ran into these on the carrier RTU package units KLA series. The latest one I worked on the 24v was coming off from what I believe was a relay wasn't sure what that was but there was no 24v coming out have you ever ran into those? and would it matter if I just pulled the 24v volts from the transformer ?
The problem with this version is that when it gets a 24v signal the heat sequence will turn on. There is another type with a vent damper plug and that one does need 24v all the time when using the vent damper and has a separate 24v terminal to turn the heat sequence on. The relay may have been powered from the 24v heat signal wire with safeties to open if there are any problems. The question is why it is there. You would have to reverse engineer it and read the wiring schematic diagram to figure out why it is there. For furnaces there is always a safety reason. For ac's I find some bad designs every once in a while. Thanks A VM!
On an ancient Dayton 3E369 Fuel Trimmer there is no 3rd wire GV MV/PV common return lead and if there was it is not present now.
You do not include a thermostat link. Where would the TH red and white leads connect? You connect directly to the TR so I would surmise the TH red would connect directly to the TR red (hot) and the TH white would connect to the Robertshaw TH. That would leave the grounded RS TR terminal to piggyback the MP/PV common return ground to the TR white common, right?
Merry Christmas! I have a Honeywell S8610U spark ignitor control. It burns the 24v transformer. I replaced the transformer, and I got 8 flash error code on this control, which means the low voltage input has problem per instruction. I checked the low voltage wire (to TH-W) and found it is grounded. When I pull off the burner ground wire (GND), the low voltage wire does not ground any more. Does this mean the gas ignitor control is bad? Thank you.
During preventive maintenance, how can I tell when the ignitor is getting weak?
thanks for the great video, would you please let me know what is the parts number of the pilot assembly that you are showing on the video,
and will it fit on furnace of lennox whisper heat model no : sp 745 or help me to get the aforesaid OME part number, that I urgently needed. thank you GOD BLESS YOU.
Do you happen to know what gas valve I need for a Heatilator GNBR36E
Thanks, great is good
Thanks Perla plata!
Lately, my intermittent spark ignitor is having trouble igniting the gas so I had to manually light it to get the furnace going. Once lit, it will work for awhile but then it returns to not working normal again. Now, does it mean I got a bad ignitor and needs to replace it? I clean the rod and ignitor with steel wool once last year and it works good but this year it is having the problems I had just described above. Thanks
same here, did you solve it ?
I’ve got a Robertshaw SP 745 on a single rod setup. I’m able to get 24v reading at TR + TH and also TH + PV/MV however when I turn on my wall switch the ignition usually does nothing or sparks the rod for about 5-10 seconds the stops. We’ve been able to start the fireplace about 1 out of 100 times this year. Any idea what could be wrong or how we can troubleshoot?
Great video, but I still have a question about the ignition operation. Once the igniter lights the gas, and the main gas is kicked on and the fan is running should the separate gas line to the igniter (PV) shut off? My igniter (PV) gas stays on after the main gas (MV) is running and the system is working, it seems to be taking a toll on the igniter itself.
Usually the pv pilot stays on because this is where the flame rectification signal is proving the flame is there, thanks Andrew!
I agree that the PV stays on when the MV comes on. What do you mean it’s taking its toll on the igniter?
What is the link to the single rod video you mentioned?
I have a problem like that, gas is coming out but not the spark at all pilot stays on for a short time and goes off fan goes on only getting cold air so where i need to start question the limit switch doesn't have nothing to do with this?nor the pressure valve?help pls.
So I'm having issues with my boiler, once turned on all operations work fine I have spark, pilot and then ignition, but once boiler gets to temp and shuts down and then tried to refire the spark happens but no pilot, boiler shuts down, once I flip the switch on and off the boiler fires right away, any info would be great thanks
what are your thoughts opinions on HVAC online equipment sales to the public?
I think you should go through local vendors and set up an account for actual HVACR equipment because of warranty issues, scratches, dents, shipping time, as well as over pricing. Tools and parts are different if you can find a better price. Thanks
Thanks fixed ground and away it went! use a spark plug wire to replace the broken high voltage wire.
Thanks, awesome to hear!
Great video. Do u have any intermittent pilot ignition by Honeywell
Hey Marcos, I probably wouldn't be doing any furnace ignition videos until right before winter, thanks!
at 8：30 do you mean the board is defective? Thanks. Great video serial.
Yes I mean't the board is bad. I said the board is the culprit, meaning it was the reason the system is not working. Thanks and I should have used different wording!
How do I connect my honeywell automatic gas controller
My spark module liote the pilot and than the main flame. And then runs for 30 seconds with flame on and than it goes out. Flame sensor has been cleaned and all terminals checked. What could this be?
Check the plenum heat sensor that senses the heat near the heat exchanger, also follow the ground wire back to the module and make sure it is making good contact at the gnd to the module, thanks
How does the ignition module send 90-100VAC through the flame rod if only 24VAC going to module? Transformer inside the module?
Yes each module takes the 24v and transforms it to the higher voltage for the flame sensor.
Really? Rather than taking from the 120v coming into the ignition box directly to the ignitor , it takes 24v to a transformer in the box and steps to 6-12 thousand volts?
👍
Thanks Adam Blanchard!
I spark it works it lights the pilot, the burner starts but the spark continues to work anyway, it stops about a minute later but it starts again and so on and after a while the
It sounds like the ground flame rectification signal is not being sensed by the control. Check the ground wire and connections, thanks!
TODO PERFECTO , PERO ESTA EN INGLES
Thanks a lot!
first comment?
how much money HVAC technician make yearly ?
Honestly it really matters where you are located at if in the US. Where are you?
Video quality is too bad. Please make video agin with a good camera and good lighting.
Video quality is fine. Maybe if you stopped snorting the exhaust your eyesight might return.
Bad dislay
f