As an apprentice the knowledge you exude is invaluable. One thing id like to see is you walk through a system like this while also referencing a wiring diagram. Diagrams are very helpful when trying to understand the best way to help out on a job and it helps us new guys follow along to what youre talking about! Love the vids ❤
Thank you sir for sharing a great professional lesson on Lars boilers. Learning it the hard way, like you just did, is very stressful/difficult. What a gem.
Well, I got a Telya. I had too much time invested in this boiler on a Sunday and then on a Tuesday evening to give up and make myself look that I wasn’t giving up.
I had same issue not long ago, tech support put me in the right direction right away with the amp reading of the HSI. Always something to learn in this industry
Larrs, Lochinvar and Raypak all use the same Igniters, they just use different ends and In a pinch they work together universally, without any problems. If a boiler is firing with an igniter showing less than 3.5 amps consider yourself lucky. I see boiler's that won't run with anything with at least 3.6 amps. Also 3.9 amps is little low for a new Igniter, usually you'll see around 4.2 - 4.3 amps. A little tip, before you put the new igniter in make sure that insulation in the hole isn't rubbing electrode, hense the posible reason for the low amperage on the new igniter. Eitheway, I love your content and have learned many things from watching. Keep up the work my friend.
I have had Fenwal control do that before. I think if I remember the ignitor has to be under 80 oms for it to see the flame. It feels good to figure out something that is kicking your ass.
That was a tough one with multiple problems going on at once . There is a molex plug pin removing tool that comes in handy ,and sometimes you need one for certain parts upgrading
Thought I’d chime again regarding the last issue where it starts and stops. Last time I got that same issue, for me, it was the pressure switch was barely making contact enough to start, but then when the flame ignited, the change in pressure made it open. Haha. I searched for a while! Glad you found the issue!
Yeah, so that’s why I was checking for continuous 24 V at the flow switch when there’s a call for domestic hot water or space eating and the flow switch will get power to the gray wire as long as our improving switches are OK and I never dropped out there ever
The satisfaction on fixing something that you don't see everyday is great. We know the logic but hard to know every equipment out there. You supply the brain to work out the issue and solve it for them before another botches it 🤣🤣. Get video Mike 👋👋👋
But the issue was my gas valves were not even energizing because the 24 V going to it only lasted one second so who would thought that flame rectification was an issue with this hot surface igniter
Great job! It's always the details that get you. It's a shame the engineers didn't steer you in the right direction. It's great that you had the tenacity to resolve the problem. Some would have walked 😮.
BTW, I'm so sorry for the war brought on Israel. I'm glad they are defending their rights, but so sad the world is against them AGAIN. Seriously, I never met a Jewish man or woman that I didn't love. The most kind and gentle people of the world. Why, why, why are people always trying to persecute them. As as gentile, please forgive those that persecute you and and your people. May GOD continue to bless you and your family.
Mr Mikey great video , great skills to troubleshooting, but I admire you more because you never never never give up that’s it make you one of the best in this trade , MIKEY AND STEVE best techs for sure , lots and lots of knowledge
The more gadgets they keep adding to these systems that are solid state and can have intermittent problems this will continue to be the reality for all of us where it will take hours to days to figure out what the problem is or just parts cannon the system if the parts are even available. Make the Trades great again Mikey Pipes.
Man! That was Murphy fighting you on that call. Those calls suck, but as long as the customer sticks with you and they keep confidence in you, the feeling at the end is pretty darn good 👍. Relief valve and expansion tank too? Lol
At first I thought it was low gas pressure ! I had a problem not long ago with one of those ! New unit , it would not clear a fault , got all safeties closed but no power at terminal 5&6 flow switch , my supervisor told me to check the wires somewhere one is broken checked flow switch and the connector was not terminated right.
Nice! Thermo2000 is actually about 30min from where I live! Love their products. Those Laars usually aren’t too much of a problem. Other than hard to reach exchanger on the upper side to clean… they’re easy to service! Have to watch out those fire tubes… they tend to open up at the end with time.
Dammmmm that was a serious brain drain … you know?? Their is nothing to compare to the feeling of success ❤ But in all these electronic days, sometimes you just got the year for the good old days of a thermal couple a standing pilot, a simple valve and a simple high limit low limit transformer back to the basics.. BUT I am a diehard I can not walk away and let something beat me!!! Great job well done 👍
This unit resembles a lochinvar in many ways. Even the ignitor looks alike. To save the customer money we just replaced ignitors every year. Ignitors can be finicky. It would be easier to have a separate flame rod.
It’s funny that you say/came across this… just today I had a bad air vent,bad relief valve,bad aquastat, and bad power pile gas valve that I had to convert to a regular Honeywell standing pilot thermocouple gas valve….just a real mess of shit that unfolded on my service call today
I have repaired tons of these boilers and it's the exact same thing as Lochinvar boilers and raypak commercial boilers and others as well. Yes it's a painful thing to repaired these boilers and they are frequently breaking down. Yes it's expensive to repair each time!!!!!
The igniter acts as a flame sense as well in this case, no? Like a Weil McLain GV? If you ohm out the igniter and it’s above a certain value, it’s bad and can’t sense the flame. Actually, after looking closer, it’s the same igniter as the GV90+ Another tip is that you have to test resistance at like 70*F to get a proper reading. I’ve tested them fresh out of the combustion chamber and the reading comes back very different hot as opposed to room temp. I put them in the customers freezer for a few minutes to speed up the process.
The joy you showed once you figured it out! Wow! Quick shortcut to check the hot surface igniter, is to check amps first..... They make an igniter with the correct connectors, RW2002300...
I had my old furnace suffer from intermittent ignition failures, found out that a combination of an old igniter with a higher than normal resistance and low line voltage, 108-110V at some points in the day were the root cause
I install and service a ton of the Lars product line, great equipment but needs to be installed correctly. Poor flue and piping design will cause condensing issues and destroy combustion chamber burner and chew through igniters. On pm I ohm the sensor every year, if four of spec range it gets changed.
Wondering if Rathe told you that the little button you were pressing is the high limit reset. So, calling every manufacturer to figure things out is the equivalent of "if you're not testing, you're guessing " just they give you the answers. You're a real technician
I repaired electrical equipment for many years. Generators, welders and other equipment. I even took care of our waste oil furnaces and it's controls. I know very well how tough it is to diagnose some issues with the modern boards and controls and devices. This was a tough one and you showed your superior diagnostic testing skills and it still was not easy to repair. I'm wondering what the bill was on this one ? Pretty substantial I'm sure......Nice job on a difficult repair.......
@@PipeDoctor It’s New Yawk and I’m right across the river in NJ so I would expect it would have that comma in there. Prevailing wage…..I worked cheap but the co I worked for made their money doing field work and could afford to let me do what I did. I supported the field guys in a lot of ways…..You’re one entertaining guy! 😂
No my pressure was a little high because when I first got there, the temperature and pressure gauge look like the pressure was at zero may not realizing that it was actually a high pressure gauge try to cater gauge so I bought the pressure and it was just said at 50 psi so when the water heated because the relief valve on the indirect to leak, so I dump some water from the system and it’s been fine since.
Mikey or anyone on here for that matter, I'm 40 years old and having to start over from square one in life. I'm considering applying at a local union (Chicago area and the suburbs) whether it be HVAC/R, Plumbing or Electric. Anyone have some guidance on how to proceed? Any input is appreciated.
It's never too late to start over and pursue new opportunities! Applying at a local union is a great idea, as they can provide you with valuable training and support. Best of luck on your new journey!
ive just finished a 3 day long ordeal with a Lochinvar Copper Finn II boiler. I had 5 issues with the boiler and they were all random. First i had Fan blowing constantly- proving switch replacement solved issue for 3-4 calls. next i had a stage 2 relay issue that wouldnt click over allowing power to low fan speed on start up so i had no fan power on start up. then i had an ignition module that was giving the DDC relay ghost voltages and also not supplying my F1 and F2 relay within the mod with 120VAC, then I found the flow switch was FUCKED worked 1/2 of the time. Then I went back to the fan and pressure switch. this was the kicker- the fan while plugged into the Molex connector wasnt getting 120V once you unplugged the connectors from fan to Molex you could see there was power waiting at the connector. I traced an alarm fault back to the pressure switch where i had originally put in a universal switch in. apparently the spring cap wasnt screwed in enough so the pressure switch couldnt reset. anyways good client understands shit happens and i learn everyday.
So if I read this correctly--The ignitor heats up and lets the gas valve open, creating flame.Then the ignitor 120 v input turns off and the controller needs to see a voltage (from the ignitor/flame sense) created by heat to keep the gas valve on. It would be much simpler to have two separate components ie-ignitor, flame sense than the combination ig/flame sense? Now on the next goofy system I would like to see what the peepee voltage is on the ignitor with just the flame creating it!! The controller you had wasn't seeing the weenie voltage from the original ignitor because it wasn't there. I guess next time you see 24 v that goes away immediately look at that stupid ign/flam combo pos. Why to beat this to death. been there done that. I was in the wrong room for 5 hours before we figured crap out. I'll never forget that one. Thanks
We in Upstate NY (Utica/Rome) who need heat more than AC, have never seen a Larrs unit. And now I know why. So why does Larrs not use a simple flame sensor like most other gas units?
Sorry brother but that (Bradford White)is not going to lite with the cover off. Isn’t it amazing how they have turned what should be a simple process (Heating some Fing water) into a complicated nightmare?!!!
I do commercial work in Colorado and see these boilers all the time. The HSI is by far the most common issue. Ive seen this exact issue many times and im surprised tech support lead you a stray. Anymore i start right at the HSI and go from there. The old HSI probably killed the ignition module.
3 trips... No one wants to provide this service, but sometimes the manufacturers fuck us. It's a setup Mikey. The manufacturer set us up, and there's nothing we can do about it. We are only as good as the products that are provided to us. If this specific model unit sucks, it's unfortunate, but it's not my fault, it's not your fault, nor the original installer. It's time to put more of the blame on the manufacturer. I'm done apologizing.
And then the installing contractor calls the homeowner after seeing this video and, totally unprofessionally, says I am an idiot and I don't know what I'm doing! Guess who the real Comfort Specialist is?
Those MT2’s are junk. We had a few we put in around 2017. They ran fine the first year, and every year after they were trouble. They eat ignition controllers, igniters, and burners. We ended up going with Lochnivar Knights.
Hi there my future boss named Mike pipe's owner of Mike pipe's heating and cooling and plumbing and electrical o really do like your video's a hole lot however in that one video of you telling all of us versus for your Mike pipe's porlenfe channel how you decided to fire Josh because he came unprepared for work now me i am a professional horse farmer and what I do is came to work prepared for work when and if I am needed to be but as of right now I am taking some time off from working with the horse's due to my brand new chicawa pug mix breed dog named taco Antonio Santiago who has recently passed away due to a heart murder and a hundred disks in his back of his spine and suffered a stroke as well also ok
As an apprentice the knowledge you exude is invaluable. One thing id like to see is you walk through a system like this while also referencing a wiring diagram. Diagrams are very helpful when trying to understand the best way to help out on a job and it helps us new guys follow along to what youre talking about! Love the vids ❤
Omfg, that voicover about the limit just made me crack up so hard.
It actually caught me off guard.
"Hrm this looks like a door swit..."
"IT'S NOT"
Thank you sir for sharing a great professional lesson on Lars boilers. Learning it the hard way, like you just did, is very stressful/difficult. What a gem.
Mikey, your troubleshooting skills are top-notch, as always. I admire your stick-to-itiveness when it comes to getting to the bottom of things.
Well, I got a Telya. I had too much time invested in this boiler on a Sunday and then on a Tuesday evening to give up and make myself look that I wasn’t giving up.
Mikey stop showing weakness with being exhausted. You the man you got this
this one really beat me up, but I still won!
I had same issue not long ago, tech support put me in the right direction right away with the amp reading of the HSI. Always something to learn in this industry
Learn something new everyday
Nothing better than when they finally work. Good job
Thanks. It was quite a relief
the best feeling when you fix things while learning, this is why I at least do the job. Keep up the good work Mike.
Thanks 👍
If you ain’t testing your guessing!!!!! This proves you still have to do some guessing right!! Great video Mikey.
Three (3) Failures on a three (3) year old Installation ? That Equipment looks Expensive and I’m sure it was. Great Diagnosis. 👍🙏
Thanks. It kicked my ass but I had too much invested to give up
Larrs, Lochinvar and Raypak all use the same Igniters, they just use different ends and In a pinch they work together universally, without any problems. If a boiler is firing with an igniter showing less than 3.5 amps consider yourself lucky. I see boiler's that won't run with anything with at least 3.6 amps. Also 3.9 amps is little low for a new Igniter, usually you'll see around 4.2 - 4.3 amps. A little tip, before you put the new igniter in make sure that insulation in the hole isn't rubbing electrode, hense the posible reason for the low amperage on the new igniter.
Eitheway, I love your content and have learned many things from watching. Keep up the work my friend.
I have had Fenwal control do that before. I think if I remember the ignitor has to be under 80 oms for it to see the flame. It feels good to figure out something that is kicking your ass.
Yeah it sure does
😂😂😂 this was a good one.
Mike your prayer was heard. Blessed be the one that seeks refuge in the lord. Remember that.
That was a tough one with multiple problems going on at once . There is a molex plug pin removing tool that comes in handy ,and sometimes you need one for certain parts upgrading
Thought I’d chime again regarding the last issue where it starts and stops. Last time I got that same issue, for me, it was the pressure switch was barely making contact enough to start, but then when the flame ignited, the change in pressure made it open. Haha. I searched for a while! Glad you found the issue!
Yeah, so that’s why I was checking for continuous 24 V at the flow switch when there’s a call for domestic hot water or space eating and the flow switch will get power to the gray wire as long as our improving switches are OK and I never dropped out there ever
The satisfaction on fixing something that you don't see everyday is great. We know the logic but hard to know every equipment out there. You supply the brain to work out the issue and solve it for them before another botches it 🤣🤣. Get video Mike 👋👋👋
Man that was a good one. Who would have thought the igniter does flame rectification.
Lochinvar copper fins are the same way and so are Weil McLain ultras
But the issue was my gas valves were not even energizing because the 24 V going to it only lasted one second so who would thought that flame rectification was an issue with this hot surface igniter
Great job! It's always the details that get you. It's a shame the engineers didn't steer you in the right direction. It's great that you had the tenacity to resolve the problem. Some would have walked 😮.
Thanks 👍
BTW, I'm so sorry for the war brought on Israel. I'm glad they are defending their rights, but so sad the world is against them AGAIN. Seriously, I never met a Jewish man or woman that I didn't love. The most kind and gentle people of the world. Why, why, why are people always trying to persecute them. As as gentile, please forgive those that persecute you and and your people. May GOD continue to bless you and your family.
Mikey!!!!!!! great troubleshooting ,been there .That stress and time spent ,which you will take your loss and get it running..
Spent most of my career troubleshooting/repairing controls on commercial and industrial equipment.. I felt your pain during this process 😩
Ty
Great job sticking with it to the bitter end. But, you never capped off the orange wire on the transformer !!
Mike, the process of elimination can be a long road to victory. only the persistent get to the finish line. well done.
Mr Mikey great video , great skills to troubleshooting, but I admire you more because you never never never give up that’s it make you one of the best in this trade , MIKEY AND STEVE best techs for sure , lots and lots of knowledge
You're diligence... Impressive!!!
The more gadgets they keep adding to these systems that are solid state and can have intermittent problems this will continue to be the reality for all of us where it will take hours to days to figure out what the problem is or just parts cannon the system if the parts are even available. Make the Trades great again Mikey Pipes.
Man! That was Murphy fighting you on that call. Those calls suck, but as long as the customer sticks with you and they keep confidence in you, the feeling at the end is pretty darn good 👍. Relief valve and expansion tank too? Lol
Damn, that thing would not let you off easy but, mike saves the day as always!
What a pain
At first I thought it was low gas pressure ! I had a problem not long ago with one of those ! New unit , it would not clear a fault , got all safeties closed but no power at terminal 5&6 flow switch , my supervisor told me to check the wires somewhere one is broken checked flow switch and the connector was not terminated right.
When the Boss Man shows up, Great things are going to happen. 🤔👍🙏
Yes it will
Nice! Thermo2000 is actually about 30min from where I live! Love their products. Those Laars usually aren’t too much of a problem. Other than hard to reach exchanger on the upper side to clean… they’re easy to service! Have to watch out those fire tubes… they tend to open up at the end with time.
Yes they are!
Thank you for these videos
What could be some problems with the water pump itself if the electrical is all good?
Dammmmm that was a serious brain drain … you know?? Their is nothing to compare to the feeling of success ❤ But in all these electronic days, sometimes you just got the year for the good old days of a thermal couple a standing pilot, a simple valve and a simple high limit low limit transformer back to the basics.. BUT I am a diehard I can not walk away and let something beat me!!! Great job well done 👍
This unit resembles a lochinvar in many ways. Even the ignitor looks alike. To save the customer money we just replaced ignitors every year. Ignitors can be finicky. It would be easier to have a separate flame rod.
Really great video mikey. Love those brain twister calls. Bravisimo
Glad you like them!
Big fan brother 25yrs in the trade
Thanks Robert.
It’s funny that you say/came across this… just today I had a bad air vent,bad relief valve,bad aquastat, and bad power pile gas valve that I had to convert to a regular Honeywell standing pilot thermocouple gas valve….just a real mess of shit that unfolded on my service call today
I have repaired tons of these boilers and it's the exact same thing as Lochinvar boilers and raypak commercial boilers and others as well.
Yes it's a painful thing to repaired these boilers and they are frequently breaking down.
Yes it's expensive to repair each time!!!!!
Yeah, it sucks to install a Laars mighty therm
2
Amazing we still get excited over ignition. Yahoo
Absolutely
The igniter acts as a flame sense as well in this case, no? Like a Weil McLain GV? If you ohm out the igniter and it’s above a certain value, it’s bad and can’t sense the flame. Actually, after looking closer, it’s the same igniter as the GV90+
Another tip is that you have to test resistance at like 70*F to get a proper reading. I’ve tested them fresh out of the combustion chamber and the reading comes back very different hot as opposed to room temp. I put them in the customers freezer for a few minutes to speed up the process.
The joy you showed once you figured it out! Wow! Quick shortcut to check the hot surface igniter, is to check amps first..... They make an igniter with the correct connectors, RW2002300...
Let me tell you, did you think I was gonna give up?
THIS IS WHAT i WANT TO LEARN, DON'T JUST WANT TO BE A PARTS CHANGER.
not too shabby
I had my old furnace suffer from intermittent ignition failures, found out that a combination of an old igniter with a higher than normal resistance and low line voltage, 108-110V at some points in the day were the root cause
Wow excellent video as always
Thanks again!
I install and service a ton of the Lars product line, great equipment but needs to be installed correctly. Poor flue and piping design will cause condensing issues and destroy combustion chamber burner and chew through igniters. On pm I ohm the sensor every year, if four of spec range it gets changed.
Love those fuck yeah moments, when you finally figure it out. Great job!
Tell me about it.
Wondering if Rathe told you that the little button you were pressing is the high limit reset.
So, calling every manufacturer to figure things out is the equivalent of "if you're not testing, you're guessing " just they give you the answers. You're a real technician
E/I=R (Ohms law) so if you measure 120V and your clamp give the amps, you can calculate the resistance with no need to disconnect.
Thanks for sharing. Appreciate the feedback
I repaired electrical equipment for many years. Generators, welders and other equipment. I even took care of our waste oil furnaces and it's controls. I know very well how tough it is to diagnose some issues with the modern boards and controls and devices. This was a tough one and you showed your superior diagnostic testing skills and it still was not easy to repair. I'm wondering what the bill was on this one ? Pretty substantial I'm sure......Nice job on a difficult repair.......
There was a , in the bill:)
@@PipeDoctor It’s New Yawk and I’m right across the river in NJ so I would expect it would have that comma in there. Prevailing wage…..I worked cheap but the co I worked for made their money doing field work and could afford to let me do what I did. I supported the field guys in a lot of ways…..You’re one entertaining guy! 😂
Great work Mike! did you have to replace the PTRV on the tank?
No my pressure was a little high because when I first got there, the temperature and pressure gauge look like the pressure was at zero may not realizing that it was actually a high pressure gauge try to cater gauge so I bought the pressure and it was just said at 50 psi so when the water heated because the relief valve on the indirect to leak, so I dump some water from the system and it’s been fine since.
Mikey or anyone on here for that matter, I'm 40 years old and having to start over from square one in life. I'm considering applying at a local union (Chicago area and the suburbs) whether it be HVAC/R, Plumbing or Electric. Anyone have some guidance on how to proceed? Any input is appreciated.
It's never too late to start over and pursue new opportunities! Applying at a local union is a great idea, as they can provide you with valuable training and support. Best of luck on your new journey!
I always replace igniter when changing out a ignition control for this very reason
Good idea
Thats crazy that it took 3 400$ parts to find out an ignitor was bad. Sucks you cant do universal. Great video.
ive just finished a 3 day long ordeal with a Lochinvar Copper Finn II boiler. I had 5 issues with the boiler and they were all random. First i had Fan blowing constantly- proving switch replacement solved issue for 3-4 calls. next i had a stage 2 relay issue that wouldnt click over allowing power to low fan speed on start up so i had no fan power on start up. then i had an ignition module that was giving the DDC relay ghost voltages and also not supplying my F1 and F2 relay within the mod with 120VAC, then I found the flow switch was FUCKED worked 1/2 of the time. Then I went back to the fan and pressure switch. this was the kicker- the fan while plugged into the Molex connector wasnt getting 120V once you unplugged the connectors from fan to Molex you could see there was power waiting at the connector. I traced an alarm fault back to the pressure switch where i had originally put in a universal switch in. apparently the spring cap wasnt screwed in enough so the pressure switch couldnt reset. anyways good client understands shit happens and i learn everyday.
The button is hi limit usually trips when there’s no water flow or a dirty filter
Thanks for sharing that information! It's always helpful to know why the button trips and how to fix it.
So if I read this correctly--The ignitor heats up and lets the gas valve open, creating flame.Then the ignitor 120 v input turns off and the controller needs to see a voltage (from the ignitor/flame sense) created by heat to keep the gas valve on. It would be much simpler to have two separate components ie-ignitor, flame sense than the combination ig/flame sense? Now on the next goofy system I would like to see what the peepee voltage is on the ignitor with just the flame creating it!! The controller you had wasn't seeing the weenie voltage from the original ignitor because it wasn't there. I guess next time you see 24 v that goes away immediately look at that stupid ign/flam combo pos. Why to beat this to death. been there done that. I was in the wrong room for 5 hours before we figured crap out. I'll never forget that one. Thanks
LAARS has entered the chat
I noticed the gas valve is in the off position why
No it wasn’t.
We in Upstate NY (Utica/Rome) who need heat more than AC, have never seen a Larrs unit. And now I know why. So why does Larrs not use a simple flame sensor like most other gas units?
Do you know what Unica, that’s a great fucking question
Sorry brother but that (Bradford White)is not going to lite with the cover off. Isn’t it amazing how they have turned what should be a simple process (Heating some Fing water) into a complicated nightmare?!!!
Yeah figured that out quickly:)
No Mike it should be 150 psig on the water tank. 30 psig on the boiler. 👍🇨🇦
I didn’t install it.
Daniel son ……you win 😅
Miyagi think you do good job …. But must lean little humility 😎
Haha, thanks, Daniel son! I'll try to "wax on, wax off" my ego a bit and learn some humility. Appreciate the support!
Those hot surface igniters go bad on laars boilers often.
Good to know
I do commercial work in Colorado and see these boilers all the time. The HSI is by far the most common issue. Ive seen this exact issue many times and im surprised tech support lead you a stray. Anymore i start right at the HSI and go from there. The old HSI probably killed the ignition module.
Mike, you probably needed a beverage afterwards.
3 trips...
No one wants to provide this service, but sometimes the manufacturers fuck us.
It's a setup Mikey. The manufacturer set us up, and there's nothing we can do about it. We are only as good as the products that are provided to us. If this specific model unit sucks, it's unfortunate, but it's not my fault, it's not your fault, nor the original installer.
It's time to put more of the blame on the manufacturer. I'm done apologizing.
It makes sense that the igniter was bad due to an intermittent failure of the ignition control.
Yeah, makes complete sense.
that looks like a frustrating one
Time 15.01 value is off when trying to Ignite
Hi Mike
When can we meet for lunch in the Borrows😂❤
Maybe one day!
The moral of the story is just keep changing parts to hit the right one is the way you do it lol Mikey pipes.
wrong
"Познаете истину, и истина сделает вас свободным"..
Thank you for sharing your thoughts! It's always great to see people seeking the truth and finding freedom in it.
👍👍
Wow is the homeowner going to be compensated by the manufacturers defect., That sucks paying all that out.
why? it's out of warranty
Fuck yea. 😂 good job. 🎉
And then the installing contractor calls the homeowner after seeing this video and, totally unprofessionally, says I am an idiot and I don't know what I'm doing! Guess who the real Comfort Specialist is?
Those MT2’s are junk. We had a few we put in around 2017. They ran fine the first year, and every year after they were trouble. They eat ignition controllers, igniters, and burners. We ended up going with Lochnivar Knights.
Thanks for sharing your experience! It's always helpful to hear about different products and their performance over time.
Hey I am doing work in Long Island, who has the best pizza? I am in the Islandia area.
King Umberto in Elmont, on the corner of Hempstead Turnpike and Meacham
Thank you 🙏, I will go there tomorrow! Thanks for all of the videos and knowledge you share.
Hi there my future boss named Mike pipe's owner of Mike pipe's heating and cooling and plumbing and electrical o really do like your video's a hole lot however in that one video of you telling all of us versus for your Mike pipe's porlenfe channel how you decided to fire Josh because he came unprepared for work now me i am a professional horse farmer and what I do is came to work prepared for work when and if I am needed to be but as of right now I am taking some time off from working with the horse's due to my brand new chicawa pug mix breed dog named taco Antonio Santiago who has recently passed away due to a heart murder and a hundred disks in his back of his spine and suffered a stroke as well also ok
first comment.
Confirmed
Nabisco "easy cheese" america with " better cheddars" ? and maybe a glass of white wine.@@PipeDoctor
@@PipeDoctorwhat happened to the storage tank ?
You did nothing
Okay. Thanks for watching